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The Multiple Personalities of Yellow in Images

02 Oct

The color yellow can represent many different things – feelings and emotions – ranging from happy (the iconic yellow happy face), sunshine, and spring to the evil side of the color like jealousy, cowardice, caution, and illness. Of course there is also a lot of yellow at this time of year as autumn is upon us in the northern parts of the world.

Let’s have a look at how these photographers used the color yellow in their images.

By Tobi Firestone

By Vinoth Chandar

By Andreas Levers

By Peter Liu Photography

By Zitzitoune

By Loïc Lagarde

By Vicki DeLoach

By Brad Smith

By jenny downing

By KellarW

By Fabrizio Furno’

By Darlene Hildebrandt

By amanda tipton

By daniel zimmel

By Mike Beales

By Matt Artz

By Roo Reynolds

By Scott Robinson

By Dennis Jarvis

By 8#X

By Yasser Abusen

By MaxGag

By Boris Brückhäuser

By Jeremy Brooks

By Mirai Takahashi

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Upload Your Photos to Multiple Social Media Websites with Expojure

19 Feb

How many social media websites do you upload photos to regularly? I have five – a Facebook page, my personal Facebook profile, Google+, Flickr and 500px. Some people have more. For photographers who want to get their work out there, this seems like a must. Yet it’s time consuming and, truth be told, an inefficient way of working.

If this is you, then you’ll be interested in new photo sharing website, Expojure. A startup based in Mumbai, it lets you upload the photos you want to share to a central Expojure account, arrange them in Collections, add keywords, titles, tags and descriptions, then upload them to as many as six photo sharing websites (the five listed above plus SmugMug).

I’ve been using Expojure for a few weeks now and I’m very impressed with the setup. The website is well-designed and easy to use. The layout is simple, doing exactly what most people will need it to, without adding unnecessary extras.

There’s also a plug-in for uploading photos to your Expojure account directly from Lightroom.

How Expojure works

When you sign in to Expojure you’ll see a page that looks something like this – it is your Dashboard. If you’ve uploaded any photos to Expojure already, you will see them here. If not, you’re presented with the option to sign into the photo sharing accounts you wish to use. Just click the buttons to do so. Connected accounts are shown afterwards on the left.

Once you’ve connected to some photo sharing websites, it’s time to go to the Organizer and add photos. Uploaded photos are automatically placed in a new Collection. You can rename the Collection and add a description using the panel on the right. You can also move photos around between Collections.

You can add or amend details of individual photos by clicking on them and entering the new information on the right. If you haven’t already added a title, description, or tags now is your chance to do so.

Click the green Publish buttons in the bottom right corner to upload the photos. Expojure places all the photos in the Collection into a new Set on your selected website.

Every photo in the Collection is sent to the chosen website. If you want to upload a single image, you need to create a new Collection and add the chosen photo to that first.

Here’s a photo that I uploaded to Flickr. The title, description, EXIF data and tags have been successfully added. The only thing left to do is add the photo to any Groups or mark the location on the map.

Expojure Lightroom plug-in

If you click on the Settings tab at the top of the Expojure website page you can download a free plug-in for Lightroom. Use Plug-in manager to add it. It shows up in Lightroom’s Publish Services.

Once installed, you can create new Publish Collections containing photos to upload to your Expojure account. Lightroom uploads them when you press the Publish button. The images are held there until you log in and distribute them to your photo sharing websites.

Notes about Expojure

At the time of writing Expojure is free to use, and has been since the service went live. However, at some point (most likely after this article has been written, but before it is published) Expojure is switching to a subscription model. There will still be a free account, which limits you to uploading 20 photos a week and connection to two social media accounts. Paid accounts retain unlimited photo uploads and unlimited social media accounts.

If you have a free 500px account, you will receive an error message when you upload photos to it. This is because free accounts don’t support Sets. However, your photos are still successfully uploaded to 500px, despite the error message.

Expojure will add more features, and more services to its supported photo sharing websites over the next few weeks. Some of these may be active by the time you read this article.

Alternatives to Expojure

The only alternative to Expojure that I’m aware of is Lightroom’s Publish Services (please let us know in the comments if you know of any others). The benefit of Lightroom’s Publish Services is that it is free (once you own Lightroom). However it’s not as efficient or easy to use as Expojure and doesn’t support websites like Google+ out of the box (plug-ins are available for many photo sharing websites).

Conclusion

Expojure is a well thought out service that greatly simplifies the task of uploading photos to social media websites. If you find the process of adding images to multiple websites frustrating, then please take a look at Expojure’s website, you’ll be glad you did. The video posted at the top of the article gives you a good overview of how it works.

Which photo sharing accounts do you use and how do you manage them? Please let us know in the comments.

The Mastering Lightroom Collection

My Mastering Lightroom ebooks will help you get the most out of Lightroom 4 and Lightroom 5. They cover every aspect of the software from the Library module through to creating beautiful images in the Develop module. Click the link to learn more or buy.

The post Upload Your Photos to Multiple Social Media Websites with Expojure by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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Cactus Launches $55 Radio Trigger For Multiple TTL Flash Systems

24 Jul

Hong Kong-based manufacturer Cactus has launched a wireless flash trigger that it claims will work with any hotshoe or PC sync socket-equipped camera and can control the power output from Canon, Nikon and Pentax-compatible flash units all at the same time. According to the manufacturer, even photographers working with multiple flashguns designed for different TTL systems will be able to link them via the wireless trigger. Click through for more information.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Unique Flower Photography Using Multiple Exposures

12 May

Most of the new cameras from both Nikon and Canon now have the capability to create multiple exposures. The technique is rather simple to set up, but the results can be both unlimited and unpredictable. So try using this feature to create some unique floral images.

Set-up

Select Multiple Exposure from your camera’s menu. The default option on this setting is, of course, OFF. Select the ON option. Some cameras will give you the option here for ON (series) which will keep the option on until you turn it off or ON (single photo) which will capture only one multiple exposure image.
Scroll down to select the number of shots you desire, select either two or three. (Some cameras will allow you to select up to 10).
The third setting is Auto Gain. When set to ON, your camera will automatically adjust exposure gain for the addition of each image. In the OFF position you must manually adjust for the exposure of each layered image. (All the sample images here were created with the Auto Gain ON.)
Confirm that you have Multiple Exposure set to ON and hit OK.
You’re now ready to shoot, so set up your exposure and focus like you would do with any floral image.

Taking multiple exposure images does take some practice to perfect, and you will have a lot of throwaways. As you take each exposure, your camera will show you a preview of the image just exposed, and you have 30 seconds to shoot the next image or the camera will finish the process without any additional exposures. After the last exposure of the series, you will see the final image.

Type of Multiple Exposure Images to Try

The resulting photos you can accomplish with this technique are limited only by your own creativity. The following paragraphs describe how to shoot three types of images:

The Twist
The Fill
The Shoot Through

The Twist

In this method, set the number of shots to three. The key to this method is to keep the center of the flower in the same location on all three images. Using your spot focus point as a reference point to help keep the images aligned, take the first image. Keep the center of the flower in the same location of the view finder and turn the camera to the left or right and take a second exposure. Then, again keeping the center of the flower in the same location, turn the camera again and take the third image. The degree of your turn can vary depending on the size of the subject flower. Remember to refocus before each of the three exposures.

The Fill

In this method you will fill the frame with flowers by shooting however many multiple exposures you choose and placing flowers in different locations within the frame with each exposure.

The Shoot Through

Set your number of exposures to two. Your first exposure should be a normal exposure of the floral subject. Without changing the focus setting, move your camera closer to the flower to fill the frame with an out-of-focus image, which will give you a soft shoot-through effect.

Other Tips

Some Nikon models will automatically turn off Multiple Exposure after each image, so you will need to go back into the menu and turn it back on after each image is completed.
Simple backgrounds work best.
Most successful images are shot handheld. Using a tripod to create these images makes it difficult to move freely.
LiveView will be disabled on your camera during multiple exposures.
Remember, after your first exposure is taken, if no operations are performed within the next 30 seconds, the camera will automatically end the Multiple Exposure mode.

Creating Multiples in Photoshop

If your camera doesn’t have the Multiple Exposure options, you can still create these same effects in Photoshop.

Take all your images as describe above as single frames. Open the first image in Photoshop.
Open the second image and copy and paste it onto the first image as a second layer. Change the layer blending modes to multiply. You can experiment with different blending modes to get some wild effects. You can also change the opacity of each layer to get the effect to your liking.
Repeat Step 2 for every image in the series.

photoshop

Shooting multiples is a lot of experimenting, but when you get a good image, you will know it! This method can also be used for many other kinds of images. For example, try shooting a silhouette and filling it with another image. . . the possibilities are endless!

The post Unique Flower Photography Using Multiple Exposures by Bruce Wunderlich appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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Capture One Pro 7 update extends raw support to multiple new cameras

21 Jun

Phase One has released 7.1.3 of its Capture One Pro software, which includes extended raw support for a number of new cameras, including the Canon EOS-1D C and mirrorless models from Nikon, Panasonic and Sony. It also includes a beta version of a new catalog importer. Click through for a full list of newly supported cameras.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Apple patent hints at ‘social camera flash’ using multiple iOS devices

16 May

A patent filed by Apple in 2011 and discovered this week by aoppleinsider.com seems to hint at a ‘social camera flash’ system, allowing multiple iOS devices to be connected and used as secondary strobes for impromptu flash setups. The patent is filed as an ‘illumination system’ and describes ‘initiating a master-slave relationship between the image capture device and at least one secondary device’. Click through for more details.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Studio Lighting: Unravelling the Complexity of Multiple Lights

20 Apr

As one gets started in studio lighting I think it is pretty common to get over ensconced in the lighting scenarios. It is funny because everything you read tells you to start with one light until you really start getting a feel for how to shape, angle and manipulate it with purpose. Most of us end up getting lost in multiple light set-ups struggling to find proper lighting solutions. I was not any different.

Soon after I got started, I found myself using 4-5 lights in every setup and then getting frustrated with the nuclear explosion of light that was going off with each shutter click. It makes me laugh now, because at the time I was solely focused on getting light on the subject, background and in most cases everything else in the room that was touched by the mushroom cloud of illumination. I did not understand the importance of shadow, shape, depth and form.

Maturing with studio lighting takes time and patience, and always remember that each light should have a specific purpose. Understanding how to build the lighting with intent in mind takes plenty of practice and a fair number of mistakes and experimentation. Just remember to keep an open mind and never stop learning from both your successful and failed attempts. So, let’s get down to business and walk through a more challenging lighting set-up being mindful of the reasons and rational for each lights use.

Creative Winter-106(sRGB-websize)

Concept

In pre-planning for any shoot it is always good to have some structure and direction to the idea or concept. Some focus, no matter how vague, will always be helpful. Understand what sort of mood, feel or emotion you hope to portray and have some insight into what you want presented in your final image. In the shoot presented in this article, the overall theme was a creative portrait based on the beauty of ice, winter and cold.

This already set most of my color palette to blues, whites, silvers and other cooler tones. I also wanted to give a feeling like the model was being seen through a pane or block of ice and knew I wanted some crystal like texture incorporated. Simply put, I needed a lighting set-up that would maximize the crystalline texture, but that would also provide a flattering light for the model. Sounds simple right?

Lighting Plan

Let’s think through this lighting for a moment. In order to light for texture, one needs to light from the side so that the light skims the texture and creates shadows that give some shape, depth and form to the surface. Great! We can side light our crystalline forms. Oh but wait, if we side light the model we are likely going to see every blemish, hair or imperfection on the skin and either are going to resort to a lengthy saddle-sore ridden editing session, or have a very unflattering photo of our model.

How can I get a nice beautiful light on my model? I know, butterfly or clam shell lighting provides a very flattering look and has a way of smoothing out the complexion. Awesome! But wait, if I front light the texture, I will lose the depth and form of the crystals. Quite a conundrum, huh? Well, at least it provides a framework to help me set-up my lighting. I want some sort of combination of side lighting and butterfly lighting that will accomplish both of my needs. Lets break it down in a diagram.

LightingSetup

Set-up

All make-up and styling was performed by the amazingly creative Dina Bree. The model, Leslie, was shot against a blue seamless background through a piece of plexiglass that had been treated to create a crystalline or frozen texture. White and silver confetti was released over the model during shooting to gain an effect as if snow was falling lightly.

I had two strip boxes, one on either side of the plexiglass skimming the surface and providing some side lighting to the model. The key light was a diffused beauty dish that was placed directly above the plexiglass and angled down at the model and positioned so that it would not spill light on the textured surface. My fill light was a 7” reflector with blue gel bounced off of the floor beneath the plexiglass up at the model again trying to avoid spill on the plexiglass. I knew I wanted both the textured surface and the model in sharp focus so I chose a very small aperture at f/16 to gain a large depth of field.

Thus, I had found a pleasant combination of side lighting and butterfly lighting to accomplish my goals within the original framework I had outlined.

When I conceived the idea for this shoot, I have to admit I was not sure if I could pull it off effectively. I knew the lighting would be tricky and that it could take some subtle changes or modifications as I progressed through the shoot. I also knew that it could be a complete disaster with an ultimate failed result. Either way it was going to be a great learning opportunity. Lighting with intent and purpose is critical as you move into multiple light set-ups. Planning and understanding the need for each light serves to unravel a lot of the complexity encountered in studio lighting scenarios.

Also, don’t be afraid to experiment within the set-up. This final shot was a fantastic accident as I decided to turn the key light off for some production shots and I got a whole new look and feel to the image. Take your time and think it through and make sure you have an idea of where you are going before you start. There is no need to fly completely blind. Be confident, clever and calculated and you will soon find that you can amaze yourself and satiate that starving creative beast inside you with a nice healthy meal.

Creative Winter-314-Edit(sRGB-websize)

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Studio Lighting: Unravelling the Complexity of Multiple Lights

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How To Sync Multiple Camera Time Stamps In Lightroom 4

05 Apr

Syncing the time stamp on multiple cameras is best done ahead of time. Every six months or so I take all of my digital SLR camera bodies and sync the clocks in them. This is important because if you use multiple cameras on a photo shoot like a wedding, you want to be able to sort the photos by the time they were taken so you can give the client a set of photos that are organized from start to finish. If your cameras time stamps are off, this can become very annoying in post because you’ll notice images being out of order. This becomes amplified the more your cameras are out of sync.

Well, none of us are perfect and I certainly don’t claim to be! I recently shot a wedding with my good buddy Cliff Baise and I totally forgot to sync our cameras ahead of time. When I got his images on my computer to start editing everything together I was getting frustrated because I wasn’t seeing ANY of my images in Lightroom. Everything was sorted by time like it always is and I double checked everything. Well, it turns out our cameras were a full hour out of sync with my camera being an hour ahead of Cliff’s. So my images weren’t showing up in the timeline until much later in the wedding. This was pretty nerve racking because I hadn’t run into this problem before. I’ve always synced my own cameras (my wife usually shoots with me and uses my other main camera) so I’ve never had to deal with this before. I thought I was out of luck. So I started rummaging through the menu options in Lightroom and eventually figured out a way to sync the two cameras very quickly and very easily. Here’s how to do it:

Find Images You Know Were Taken At The Same Time

Screen Shot 2013-03-29 at 9.05.11 AM

At some point during the day of a wedding or any shoot, it’s likely that the two shooters took a photo at the same exact time (or dang close to it). This doesn’t have to be an exact, down to the mili-second thing…they just need to be close. For this wedding I found a shot that Cliff took of me taking a picture of the bride showing off her boots. Perfect. All I needed to do was find the picture that I took at that moment.

Screen Shot 2013-03-29 at 9.05.24 AM The first thing you need to do is select the first photo you find by clicking on it in Library Mode. Then, scroll down to the other image from the second camera, hold down command on a Mac (control on PC) and click that one as well. This will select both images at the same time. Now hit the ‘C’ key on your keyboard which will bring up the two images in Compare mode side by side. Once in compare mode you can click back and forth between the two images to see all the EXIF information on the right hand side. Again, this all has to be done in Library Mode, not Develop Mode.

On the right hand side in the EXIF data, you will see the Capture Time. This is how you tell if the images are off at all. Just click back and forth between the two images and watch how the time changes. If they are off by more than a few seconds, it’s time for the next step.

Syncing The Times

This part was a little tricky the first time. Go ahead and write down the exact times of each photo on a piece of paper or type it onto your computer somewhere. Note which time correlates with each image.

Now you need to decide which set of images you want to sync. In all honesty, it doesn’t really matter which one you choose. Nobody cares what time the picture was taken, they just need to be in order of when they were taken. So I just chose to make Cliff’s images match the time of my images. I could have gone the other way around and gotten the same result.

Screen Shot 2013-03-29 at 12.14.44 PM To sync the time stamps, select all the images from the camera you want to correct. If you have them in separate folders this will be easy. If they are all mixed in to the same folder, you can sort by File Name in Library Mode and then the images will be separated. If all the images from the one camera are in their own folder, just hit Command A on a Mac (Control A on PC). This will select all the photos. If the images are mixed with another camera in the same folder, separate them by file name, then select the first image from the camera you want to correct by clicking on it, then scroll down to the last image from that camera, hold down Shift and click the last image.

Now that you have all the images selected that you want to fix, go up to Metadata in the top menu and scroll down to Edit Capture Time. When the window pops up all you need to to is update the time under the ‘New Time’ section. The original time will be on the top so just plug in the time that you wrote down from the correct camera in the ‘Corrected Time’ section.

Screen Shot 2013-03-29 at 12.16.11 PM

Once this is done, it’s important to just double check everything and make sure you have everything correct. It says at the bottom of the window that the operation cannot be undone so don’t make any mistakes! Once you are sure you have everything right just click Change and you’ll be done! You should now be able to select the images from both cameras in library mode, sort by time and see all of the images in chronological order.

Conclusion

Like I said in the beginning, it’s way easier to do this right the first time by synching the cameras before the shoot. But if you ever forget this like I did, being able to do it in Lightroom is a life saver!

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

How To Sync Multiple Camera Time Stamps In Lightroom 4

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How To Create A Multiple Exposure Effect In Post

23 Dec

Using this technique you can create a stippled effect common to impressionist painters by blending multiple layers of a single image.

To do this technique, you will need to use a photo editor that supports layers. I use Photoshop Elements but you can also use Gimp, which is free, and many other photo editors.

Don’t let the layers thing scare you away, ok? In fact, if you are leery of layers trying this technique should, ironically, make it all become clear.

Pick an image to start. I particularly like this effect on flowers and foliage but it works for other subjects too. Here is the image I will use to start.

Red Flowers Original

Follow these steps:
1. Duplicate the background layer (Layer>Duplicate Layer)
Duplicate Background Layer

2. Reduce the opacity of the new layer to 30%
Reduce Layer Opacity

3. Use the move tool (usually an arrow) and move the layer slightly in any direction

4. Duplicate the background layer again (it’s on the bottom of the layer list)
5. Drag the new layer to the top of the layers list
Layer List 1 Layer List 2

6. Reduce the opacity of the new layer to 30%
7. Use the move tool to move the layer slightly in a different direction
8. Repeat steps 4-7 any number of times
9. When you are happy with the result, use the crop tool to crop the edges of the image where you can see the borders of the moved layers.

Here’s a little video that shows me performing these steps.

And the final image:

Red Flowers with Multiple Exposure Effect

There are many different ways you can accomplish a particular effect in photoshop (or your photo editor of choice). I try to use the simplest methods I can find to keep it simple.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

How To Create A Multiple Exposure Effect In Post

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Posts Tagged ‘Multiple’

The Multiple Personalities of Yellow in Images

Cactus Launches $55 Radio Trigger For Multiple TTL Flash Systems

Unique Flower Photography Using Multiple Exposures

Set-up

Type of Multiple Exposure Images to Try

The Twist

The Fill

The Shoot Through

Other Tips

Creating Multiples in Photoshop

Capture One Pro 7 update extends raw support to multiple new cameras

Studio Lighting: Unravelling the Complexity of Multiple Lights

Concept

Lighting Plan

Set-up

How To Sync Multiple Camera Time Stamps In Lightroom 4

Find Images You Know Were Taken At The Same Time

Syncing The Times

Conclusion

How To Create A Multiple Exposure Effect In Post

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