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Archive for August, 2020

Final Cut Pro X 10.4.9 adds ProRes Raw camera setting adjustments, improved vertical editing and more

26 Aug

Apple has released its latest update to Final Cut Pro X, bringing with it a number of new features, including the ability to finally adjust ProRes Raw camera settings.

Although it’s listed under ‘Other new features,’ one of the most welcomed additions in the update is the ability to adjust ProRes Raw camera settings, such as ISO, color temperature and exposure compensation in the new controls within the inspector.

These new options address what was a big hole in the ProRes Raw workflow with FCPX. We asked our own Jordan Drake of DPReview TV for his thoughts on these new additions and he had the following to say:

’Working with ProRes Raw was initially jarring, as it did not respond like other photographic or cinematic raw formats. White balance and ISO were not directly adjustable, and attempting to use the built in tools to simulate those adjustments often led poor colors or noisy shadows. This new update allows adjustments to white balance, exposure and ISO and will hopefully allow ProRes Raw to behave more like R3D Raw, or Apple’s primary competition Blackmagic BRaw. Camera manufacturers aside from Blackmagic seem to be moving towards ProRes Raw, so this added functionality will be a big benefit for many current and future cameras.’

Also new is an improved proxy workflow with the ability to generate proxy media in custom frame sizes (1/8, 1/4, 1/2, or full resolution), the ability to create proxies in either ProRes Proxy or H.264 and the ability to create a proxy-only copy of a library to reduce the size of a project.

It’s now easier to compose footage for use in vertical-preferred platforms, such as Snapchat, Instagram TV, TikTok and others.

Apple has also added a number of new social media tools within FCPX, including automated project transformation for square of vertical delivery via the new ‘Smart Conform’ tool, the ability to view footage outside the viewer boundary for easier composing in non-traditional formats, as well as custom overlays for guides and a new ‘Duplicate Project As’ option that works with the new ‘Smart Conform’ tool to make creating videos for multiple platforms easier.

For other minor feature updates and bug fixes, head on over to Apple’s changelog for FCP 10.4.9. The update should be available as a free update in the macOS App Store if you’ve already purchased FCPX.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Google and UC Berkeley researchers create AI that can remove shadows from images

25 Aug

Researchers with the University of California Berkeley and Google Research have published a new paper detailing an AI that can remove unwanted shadows from images. The algorithm focuses on two different types of shadows — ones from external objects and ones naturally resulting from facial features — and works to either remove or soften them in order to maintain a natural appearance.

Whereas professional images are often taken in a studio with proper lighting, the average snapshot of a person is taken ‘in the wild’ where lighting conditions may be harsh, causing dark shadows that obscure parts of the subject’s face while other parts are covered with excessive highlights.

The newly developed AI is designed to address this problem by targeting those unwanted shadows and highlights, removing and softening them until a clearer subject remains. The researchers say their tool works in a ‘realistic and controllable way,’ and it could prove useful for more than just images captured in casual settings.

Professionals could, for example, use a tool like this to salvage images taken in outdoor environments where it was impossible to control the lighting, such as wedding images taken outdoors under a bright noon sun. In their paper, the researchers explain:

In this work, we attempt to provide some of the control over lighting that professional photographers have in studio environments to casual photographers in unconstrained environments … Given just a single image of a human subject taken in an unknown and unconstrained environment, our complete system is able to remove unwanted foreign shadows, soften harsh facial shadows, and balance the image’s lighting ratio to produce a flattering and realistic portrait image.

This project is designed to target three specific elements in these photographs: foreign shadows from external objects, facial shadows caused by one’s natural facial features and lighting ratios between the lightest and darkest parts of the subject’s face. Two different machine learning models are used to target these elements, one to remove foreign shadows and the other to soften facial shadows alongside lighting ratio adjustments.

The team evaluated their two machine learning models using both ‘in the wild’ and synthetic image datasets. The results are compared to existing state-of-the-art technologies that perform the same functions. ‘Our complete model clearly outperforms the others,’ the researchers note in the study, highlighting their system’s ability in a selection of processed sample images.

In addition to using the technology to adjust images, the study explains that this method can be tapped as a way to ‘preprocess’ images for other image-modifying algorithms, such as portrait relighting tools. The researchers explain:

Though often effective, these portrait relighting techniques sometimes produce suboptimal renderings when presented with input images that contain foreign shadows or harsh facial shadows. Our technique can improve a portrait relighting solution: our model can be used to remove these unwanted shadowing effects, producing a rendering that can then be used as input to a portrait relighting solution, resulting in an improved final rendering.

The system isn’t without limitations, however, particularly if the foreign shadows are presented with ‘many finely-detailed structures,’ some residue of which may remain even after the images are processed. As well, and due to the way the system works, some bilaterally symmetric shadows may not be removed from subjects,

In addition, softening the facial shadows using this technique may, at times, result in a soft, diffused appearance due to excessive smoothing of some fine details that should remain, such as in the subject’s hair, as well as causing a ‘flat’ appearance by softening some facial shadows.

As well, the researchers note that their complete system looks for two types of shadows — facial and foreign — and that it may confuse the two at times. If facial shadows on the subject are ‘sufficiently harsh,’ the system may detect them as foreign shadows and remove (rather than soften) them.

Talking about this issue, the researchers explain:

This suggests that our model may benefit from a unified approach for both kinds of shadows, though this approach is somewhat at odds with the constraints provided by image formation and our datasets: a unified learning approach would require a unified source of training data, and it is not clear how existing light stage scans or in-the-wild photographs could be used to construct a large, diverse, and photorealistic dataset in which both foreign and facial shadows are present and available as ground-truth.

Regardless, the study highlights yet another potential use for artificial intelligence technologies in the photography industry, paving the way for more capable and realistic editing that takes less time to perform than manual editing. A number of studies over the past few years have highlighted potential uses for AI, including transforming still images into moving animations and, in the most extreme cases, generating entire photo-realistic images.

As for this latest project, the researchers have made their code, evaluation data, test data, supplemental materials and paper available to download through the UC Berkeley website.

Via: Reddit

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon RF 600mm F11 real-world samples

25 Aug

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Designed as a lightweight and affordable extreme telephoto prime for Canon RF-mount shooters, the Canon RF 600mm F11 IS STM is a versatile lens for casual wildlife and general photography. If 600mm isn’t enough for you, it can be paired with Canon’s new 2X extender for RF to become a very portable (and very slow) 1200mm F22. While not up to the same optical standard as Canon’s more expensive fast sports primes, we’re pretty impressed by what this budget tele can do.

Birds, spiders, cats, squirrels, planes, boats, distant mountains and (naturally) the moon. These are just a few of the things that we pointed the Canon RF 600mm F11 IS STM at this weekend, and you can take a closer look in our sample gallery, which includes several images taken with the new 2X converter.

View our Canon RF 600mm F11 sample gallery

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Anthropics Portrait Pro Editing Software Review

25 Aug

The post Anthropics Portrait Pro Editing Software Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

A model before and after using Anthropic Portrait Pro

Anthropics Portrait Pro 19 is the latest version of its incredibly popular retouching software. This piece of software allows users to create professional retouches without needing to spend hours learning several techniques. Instead, Portrait Pro uses a simple, user-friendly interface that allows advanced retouching in a simple to understand and time-saving manner.

What’s New in Portrait Pro 19

Anthropics Portrait Pro 19 brings a host of improvements that make this software better than ever before.

Clearskin 5

Athropics Portrait Pro skin texture compared
There is a big improvement in the skin detail over previous versions of Portrait Pro.

The first I must mention is the Clearskin 5 technology. Based on state-of-the-art A.I., Clearskin 5 intelligently maps the contours and features of the face and retouches skin accordingly. It also replicates the face’s natural skin texture, allowing users to subtly remove blemishes while maintaining the subject’s natural appearance. When combined with the improved Fix Lighting tool, this new technology makes it even easier for photographers to achieve amazing results.

When compared to previous versions (which themselves were very good) this is a subtle but noticeable difference. For me, this alone is enough to recommend this version, but there is a lot more under the hood.

Let’s look at what’s new in Portrait Pro 19.

Advance Hair Retouching

Hair detection has been improved and gives users more options than ever before. After choosing a base shade for the hair, you can tweak this to create a variety of styles, from a subtle improvement of natural color all the way through to more extremes of pink and blue hair.

Choice of hair when using Anthropics editing software
A subtle tweak or a radical change? Both are possible in Portrait Pro.

Expression Sliders

This tool offers a variety of ways to subtly change the expression of your model, letting you get the perfect smile every time.

a photo retouched to show different facial expressions
It’s easy to get your subjects smile just right when using this software.

Accurate Lens Correction

Utilizing 3D modeling, the software accurately corrects for lens distortions created by wide-angle lenses such as mobile phone cameras.

Optimized Plugin (Studio exclusive)

This plugin allows you to harness the power of Portrait Pro directly from Photoshop and start editing right away. By updating the technology, the plugin returns to Photoshop up to five times faster than previous versions, which means less time processing and more time creating great portraits.

Improved Automatic Batch Processing (Studio Max exclusive)

PortraitPro Studio Max 19 allows photographers to automatically process batches of images simultaneously. The software detects faces and features in the image, applies your chosen presets and automatically saves the result. Again, thanks to PortraitPro 19, the software handles images 2x faster than before, allowing you to retouch a batch of images quickly and easily yet achieving amazing, tailored results.

This tool (exclusive to the Studio Max edition of the software) is something that I can see being amazing for sending proofs from a headshot session. Imagine the ability to send all of the client images to select from, all retouched to your specific style. Not only will it wow your clients, but it is effortless for you to do this. 

Portrait pro applied to a model not looking at the camera
You do not need your subject to be looking directly at the camera. In this example, which was part of a batch, it still picked up the features quickly and easily saving me time.

Interactive Tutorials

These tutorials are some of the best I have seen for any software – allowing you to follow along and improve images with a guide to hold your hand.

The tutorials allow users to get to grips with the features of the software quickly and easily. By the time you get through the first couple of tutorials, you will be itching to use the software on your own images, but when you want to push your skills a little more (or just can’t quite figure something), there are more advanced tutorials to help you upgrade your skills.

There are various tutorials, from retouching skin and face shaping (which are the two tools you will probably use the most) through to a series of advanced tutorials that go into detail on things like applying makeup, hair, eyes, and many more. Thus, allowing you to take advantage of the massive feature set on offer with this software.

Portrait Pro Tutorial
The built-in tutorials make it really easy to get started in Portrait Pro 19.

In Use 

After going through the first two tutorials, I wanted to put some of my own images through the software. The feature detection on the tutorials was quick, simple, and incredibly accurate. I wanted to see if this was as good in real life as it was in the tutorials. I was amazed that my own images imported quickly and found the models’ features perfectly the first time.

Showing how Portrait Pro defines facial features
Putting in my first image, I was surprised how quickly it found all the features of the face.

Presets

I thought I’d start by trying the built-in presets. I clicked the Standard Preset and almost instantly the image was good enough to give to a client. After trying the other presets, I found the Maximum Lighting worked really well for the shot below.

Within two clicks, I had an image that was retouched to a high standard. As someone who has spent hours learning retouching techniques in Photoshop, it was impressive. To those who are new to retouching, it will give you a set of tools that would normally take hours to master individually at the click of a button.

I’ll be honest, some of the presets were a little too much for me. However, I tend to go for a more natural look in my retouching. Yet, I can see that for some, they will be perfect. I think the presets have been created to give every style of photographer a great starting point that can be tweaked until they get their own style.

Using presets in Anthropic Portrait Pro gives you a great look in seconds
With a few clicks, you can get results like these. From L-R: Original image, Standard Preset and Max Light Preset

Starting From Scratch

It would have been easy for me to leave the review here, as the presets do a great job, but I wanted to dive deeper and see how the tools would work individually. I started over with the same image and worked my way through the panels.

The panels are laid out in a very logical order, starting with Sculpting the Face, which allows you to tweak everything from eye size to the length of the model’s neck. Everything is simple and uses a slider-based system.

I then worked through the skin smoothing (which looks a lot more natural than previous versions of the software) before continuing to work my way down the menu system.

Anthropics Portrait Pro Editing Software Review
I created my own preset for this shoot. Once I had it how I liked it, I could then save my style as a preset and apply it to more images from the shoot.

A small word of caution, though. Portrait Pro allows you to push the retouching levels to the extreme. You can get caught up in pushing all sliders to the max. This will not give you a great result and like adding salt to a meal, a sprinkle is always better than a handful.

Make use of the before and after function to check you have not pushed your image too far. I have heard complaints that Portrait Pro makes everything “Doll Like” or “Just Not Natural.” That is not true. Just like Photoshop, users can get carried away and push things too far in their edits. 

It was amazing that only 30-minutes into using a brand new piece of software, I was able to fully retouch a portrait to this level without needing a YouTube tutorial. What’s even better is that with a couple of clicks, I now had my own preset that I could apply to other images. This is something that really does create a massive time-saving option. 

I put my newly created preset to the test with another image from the same shoot. It literally took me 10-seconds to import and apply the preset and it was ready to export. If you are working with large amounts of images per shoot, this might just be a game-changer.

Applying a personal preset in Portrait Pro to a new image
Within 10 seconds, I had created this edit, in my own style without needing to press more than one button.

By the time I had finished, I had added makeup, added lighting, and changed both hair and eye color quickly and easily. The feature that stood out for me was the advanced lighting tool. 

For those who are new to working with light or those who don’t currently have a lighting system, you can add lighting effects that really enhance the image and make it pop.

Who’s it for?

Anthropics Portrait Pro is an amazing tool for those who are new to retouching portraits. It is simple, yet incredibly powerful and gives you pleasing results within seconds. However, it offers much more and encourages you to go back to the software and personalize your retouching. 

For those who are more advanced photographers, it allows you to really speed up your workflow and create signature styles. The Photoshop Plugin (Studio Exclusive) means you can use Portrait Pro as part of a larger project.

For Pro’s, there is a real benefit from the batch processing options found in the Studio Max Edition. If you are shooting several images and want to send clients a selection, by using a preset (either one in-built or your own signature style), you can retouch all images with a few clicks. This saves you a lot of time and allows you to focus on your business.  

If you retouch portraits, you really need to try this software out. Also, DPS has managed to get a special offer just for you. 

How Do You Get Portrait Pro?

You can download your free trial at https://www.anthropics.com/portraitpro/download/

Currently there is a 50% OFF sale everything + DPS readers get an EXTRA 15% OFF when you use the coupon JW9682

I look forward to seeing what you create in the comments below.

The post Anthropics Portrait Pro Editing Software Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


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A Beginner’s Guide to Focus Stacking

25 Aug

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Focus Stacking appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.

Other than for special effect, photographers generally do not want out-of-focus images. But sometimes, regardless of which camera settings are used, not every detail of an image can be captured tack sharp.

The depth of field (DOF) can be so shallow that interesting aspects of the photos are without sharpness. A smaller aperture may be used to increase DOF, but moving the aperture farther from a lens’s sweet spot introduces lens diffraction into the image, again resulting in some fuzziness. Also, if stopping down the camera’s aperture, the shutter speed will need to be increased and blurry images may result. Increasing ISO to help with the exposure will introduce digital noise to the image.

So how do you shoot with the best aperture and shutter speed combination and get sharp images from the front to the back of an image? A technique that can help resolve this problem is called focus stacking.

Here’s some helpful info about this technique.

13 image Focus Stack

A 13 image focus stack.

What You Need

  • A tripod.
  • A DSLR camera capable of shooting in manual mode. It is possible to use a point and shoot camera, but it must have a manual mode and manual focus capabilities.
  • A depth of field app (which is helpful but not required).
  • Photoshop or another focus stacking software.

How to Shoot for Focus Stacking

Focus stacking is similar in principle to HDR photography. However, with focus stacking, images are captured with different focus points and later combined in Photoshop; this is in order to create an image with more DOF than would be possible with a single exposure. Landscape and macro photography are two genres of photography that benefit most from using this procedure.

But be warned: Calm winds and reasonably stationary objects are a must!

Before beginning to shoot, it is always helpful to know a lens’s sweet spot, defined as the aperture at which the lens produces its sharpest image. (It is usually found about two to three stops from wide open.) Experiment until this important setting is determined.

6 image Focus Stack

Landscape

There are two basic scenarios when shooting landscapes that may benefit from focus stacking.

The first is when the subject is a close foreground object with an interesting background, and you want both these elements to be in sharp focus.

The second is when using a telephoto lens (which typically has a shallow depth of field) and the subject covers multiple distances that may be brought into sharper focus.

(FYI: If shooting a landscape with a wide-angle lens, the DOF may be deep enough to capture a sharp image that doesn’t require focus stacking.)

Here is a little trick to find out if focus stacking will benefit an image when photographing a scene or subject:

After composing the image, set the focus point about one third into the image. Then, using Live View, enlarge the image and check to see if the foreground and background are sharp or blurry. If either image isn’t in focus as sharply as desired, the image could benefit from focus stacking.

Steps for Shooting Landscapes for Focus Stacking

  1. Place the camera on a sturdy tripod; this is a must!
  2. Frame the subject and compose the shot.
  3. Determine exposure for the scene and set the camera to manual mode to ensure that the exposure is constant for every image.
  4. Set the camera to Live View and aim the focus point at the nearest object you want in focus. Use the camera’s zoom (the plus button, not zoom on the lens) to preview the focus through Live View. Then switch to manual focus and use the focus ring to fine-tune for sharpness if necessary.
  5. Take the first exposure.
  6. Without moving the camera or adjusting any settings, move the focus point to an object mid-way in the image and refocus.
  7. Take the second exposure.
  8. Again, without changing anything, refocus on an object at the farthest point of the intended image.
  9. Take the third exposure. To capture landscapes, three images are generally all that is necessary to create sharp focus stacking images, but it’s completely fine to take extra images to make sure that the entire scene is covered. A rule of thumb would be to add more images for longer focal lengths. Be aware that extra images will take longer to process in post-production. If available, check the DOF with a Smartphone app in order to figure out how many images will be necessary to get every aspect of the photo in focus.
Using three images focus stacking. The first image was focused on the fence, the second was focused mid-way into the image, and the third was focused on the front of the house.

The first image was focused on the fence, the second was focused midway into the image, and the third was focused on the front of the house.

Macro Photography

Macro photography can benefit from focus stacking more than any other type of photography, because a macro lens has an extremely shallow depth of field.

So here’s what you do:

  1. Place the camera on a sturdy tripod – a must!
  2. Frame the subject and compose the shot.
  3. Determine the exposure for the subject, and set the camera to manual mode to ensure that the exposure remains constant for each and every image.
  4. Set the camera to Live View and aim the focus point on the nearest object you want to be in focus. Use the camera’s zoom (the plus button, not a zoom on the lens) to preview the focus through Live View. Then switch to manual focus and use the focus ring to fine-tune for sharpness, if necessary.
  5. Take the first exposure.
  6. Without moving the camera or adjusting any settings, move the focus point to a distance slightly farther away from the lens. Remember that DOF in macro photography will be measured in fractions of an inch, instead of in feet (as in landscape photography).
  7. Repeat step 6 as many times as needed to cover every aspect of the subject’s DOF. This could range from as few as six images to 30+ images. Make sure the entire subject is covered or the results may be unusable. If available, check a DOF app on your smartphone to figure out how many images will be necessary to get every aspect of the photo in focus.
By focus stacking the flowers only and leaving the background out of focus makes the flowers stand out in the final image.

Focus stacking the flowers only makes the flowers stand out from the background.

Image on right is a single image capture at 85mm focal length. Image on right is a 12 image focus stacked image. Each image had a DOF of less than one inch.

The image on left is a single image capture at 85mm focal length. The image on right is a 12-image focus stack. Each image had a DOF of less than one inch. Note the additional detail in the image on the right compared to the single image.

Tip: Take a shot with your hand in front of the camera before and after each series of images. When working with the images later, this will make it easier to tell where each series starts and ends.

Use you hand to mark the beginning of each series of images, this will make processing you images much easier.

Use your hand to mark the beginning of each series of images. This will make processing your images easier.

Processing the Final Images

Processing the files to achieve the final image may seem like the most difficult part of creating a focus-stacked image, but it’s really very simple to do in Photoshop. Here’s how:

  1. Open Photoshop
  2. Get each image on a separate layer. Under File, choose Scripts and Load Files into Stack. Click Browse and select all the images.
  3. Check the Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images box.
  4. Click OK and each of the images will open into a new layer in Photoshop.
  5. Open the Layer palette and select all layers.
  6. Under Edit, select Auto-Blend Layers.
  7. Check the box for Stack Images and Seamless Tones and Colors. Optionally, select Content-Aware Fill Transparent Areas, which will fill any transparent areas generated by aligning images in step 3. (Be aware that this will increase processing time. Generally, I do not choose this option; rather, I just crop the image slightly later, if necessary.)
  8. Click OK
  9. Flatten the image by selecting Layer>Flatten Image and save.

Focus-stacking-1

Note: If you are using a Lightroom and Photoshop workflow, after importing your images into Lightroom, instead of following steps two through five, you can simply add all your images into Photoshop as layers. Just select all your images, then go to Photo>Edit In>Open as Layer In Photoshop.

This will open all the selected images as layers. You will then have to align your images by selecting all the layers in the layer palette, then go to Edit>Auto Align Layers. Finally, continue at step six above.

Summary

It is nearly every photographer’s intention to capture the sharpest images possible, and focus stacking can be another tool to help you achieve that goal. The trick to this whole process is to take enough focused images to create a final photo that is in focus from foreground to background.

The results can be amazing once you get the hang of it; make sure to give it a try!

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Focus Stacking appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.


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How does anamorphic photography work?

25 Aug

Last time we posted about an anamorphic lens there were lots of questions about what anamorphic photography is and how it works, so we thought we’d offer a simple guide to the basics to help everyone understand what it is.

The word ‘anamorphic’ comes from the Greek words ‘ana’ and ‘morph’ which together suggest something that alters its shape but then changes back to normal again. In photography, it relates to a situation in which an image is distorted as it is taken, but is then undistorted to a normal shape when it is projected or displayed. A common example of anamorphic imagery can be seen in the cinema, when a movie is shown in that long letterbox format that stretches across the screen. This characterizes what most of us think of as anamorphic.

A 2.35:1 format image shot using the Sirui 35mm F2.8 1.33x anamorphic lens. The image was recorded in 4K video, so it started life in the 16×9 format.

The optical anamorphic process was invented during World War I to help observers in tanks get a wider view of the battleground without having to make the observation hole any larger, and the system was used on-and-off in cinema once the war was over. Anamorphic films became more popular in the early 1950s with the process re-energized to provide an exciting alternative to the almost-square format of television.

With the growing number of TVs in homes, Hollywood wanted to ensure cinema retained some unique qualities that would still make people leave their living room and part with their money to watch a movie. The long letter-box format is now synonymous with epic cinema all over the world and is a subconscious indicator for the audience that the movie they are watching has high production values.

That link with the atmosphere of ‘serious’ filmmaking is why anamorphic photography is so attractive to amateur and professional filmmaker alike, as it can lift production value in the eyes of the audience (or client), and elevate the filmmaker from the throng of video-makers shooting 16:9 or 4:3 on ‘lower-end’ equipment. Warranted or not, many people see using the anamorphic process as a leg-up on the way to artistic greatness.

The [anamorphic] letter-box format is now synonymous with epic cinema all over the world

The image formats associated with anamorphic cinema are also pretty interesting in their own right and engage some different compositional properties that are genuinely useful and unique compared to those that apply to a typical still image – in the same way that panoramic formats work in still photography.

Anamorphic aspect ratios

While in stills photography we tend to use whole numbers when discussing the aspect ratio of any given format, such as 3×2, 4×3, 5×4, 10×8, in anamorphic cinema these things are measured using 1 as the height of the frame. So, popular aspect ratios these days include 2.35:1, 2.39:1 and 2.40:1, though the official standard according to the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE) specifies 2.39:1 for widescreen projection.

CinemaScope is 2.66:1 and belongs to 20th Century Fox, but there were a whole load of other formats devised by other studios that didn’t fancy paying Fox for the license to use 2.66:1. Hasselblad fans will recognize the CinemaScope proportions as they are approximately the same as the XPan format that lives on via the 65:24 ratio in the X1D II camera.

This is a 2.66:1 CinemaScope format image, created by using a 2x anamorphic lens while recording 4:3 full-sensor video in a Micro Four Thirds camera

In this digital age, filmmakers can use whatever format suits them, though there is some value in sticking to an established ratio just for familiarity and what it might mean to the audience. The movie La La Land, for example, is shown in CinemaScope to help invoke a sense of the age it portrays – audiences, not just of a certain age, pick up on these things subconsciously and it adds something to the picture.

This diagram shows how different popular projection formats compare. The 4:3 aspect ratio was popular in film and still is in digital sensor formats, while 3:2 is what you get when you shoot full frame and with APS-C/Super 35 sensors, while 16:9 is the standard for most digital cameras in video mode and what we see most in popular video. Widescreen really starts at 2.35:1 and 2.39:1 with moderate anamorphic lenses, and 2.66:1 provides a really long and thin widescreen format.

In film-based cinema, the ends of a wide format might be cropped from the picture to meet the 2.39:1 requirement, especially when a 2x anamorphic lens is in use, but in digital video, a timeline of any proportions can be created to show a finished product in 3.5:1 if desired.

How the format is made

Normal, spherical, lenses look all around themselves in equal measure – viewing at the same angle left/right as they do up/down. Anamorphic lenses capture an elongated horizontal field of view. To achieve this, the lens squeezes the image horizontally to fit within the constraints of the sensor’s dimensions.

This anamorphic image was captured using an anamorphic lens on an iPhone 11 Pro. Use the slider to compare the desqueezed image (L) with the squeezed image (R).
Photo by Dale Baskin

This effect can be seen in the anamorphic video clips below.

That squeezed view has to fit on to a relatively square sensor, such as a 4:3 Micro Four Thirds chip, so the anamorphic element group in the lens squeezes/distorts the horizontal view so that it will fit into the available sensor space. To do this a cylindrical element is used that has the shape of a section cut from a tube – it is bent in only one plane rather than being convex all round as a normal lens would be.

This is clearly a piece of paper and not a glass lens element, but it gives you an idea of the shape of the anamorphic cylinder element that creates the wider horizontal field of view without changing the vertical field of view.

That cylindrical lens is the shape produced when you bend a sheet of paper – bowed in the horizontal aspect but still flat in the vertical aspect – allowing it to capture a wider field of view horizontally than it does vertically. Like in a Hall of Mirrors, this distorted surface creates a distorted image on the sensor or film. When projected to show the audience, that distorted image is passed through another anamorphic lens to distort the view once again, but this time in reverse – un-distorting it so that it looks normal. Historically, in anamorphic cinema, both the camera and projector are fitted with anamorphic lenses.

In the digital world an anamorphic lens is needed only to record the image, as software can be used to stretch the recorded image and make the subjects look geometrically correct again.

This picture was taken with a 1.33x anamorphic lens in stills mode on the Lumix GH5. The recorded image measured 5184 pixels wide and 3456 high, as shown in the Image Size window of Photoshop
To find the length that the image needs to be for the subject to look normal you multiple the recorded length by the anamorphic factor – in this case 1.33x
With the width and height dimensions unlinked you just enter the new width dimensions. In this case 5184 x 1.33 = 6895 pixels. Hit ‘OK’ and the image stretches to the right anamorphic format

In still photography de-squeezing a picture is pretty straight forward. You simply multiply the horizontal pixel count by the squeeze factor of the lens. So, if your original image measures 4000×3000 pixels, for example, you multiply 4000 pixels by the squeeze factor to get the width the final image should be. If the lens had a 1.33x factor we multiply 4000 x 1.33 to get 5320 pixels. In the Resize dialogue of your editing software, unlink the horizontal and vertical resolution figures so the aspect ratio can change, and then replace the 4000 with 5320 for the horizontal dimension, keeping the 3000 pixel (vertical) dimension unchanged.

Why not just crop?

You would think it would be easier just to crop a normal picture to make a letterbox format than going to all the bother of getting special lenses – and you’d be right. The issue though is that when you crop you create a lower resolution image – whether on film or on a digital sensor – and either waste film or pixels in doing so. Anamorphic lenses create an image that fills the film frame/sensor area so all those pixels you paid for are used.

This is a frame from a 4K video recorded with the Sirui 35mm 1.33x anamorphic lens. It uses all eight million of the sensor’s pixels. In contrast, cropping a 16:9 video frame to this 2.35:1 format would give us an image with roughly 6MP of data.

Shooting video using a 4K camera produces frames that are each about 8MP. Once you crop that 4K image to an anamorphic format, such as 2.39:1 for example, you end up with footage containing far fewer pixels. 4K frames shot in 16:9 (1.78:1) are 3840 x 2160 pixels, but when that frame is cropped to 2.39:1 it becomes 3840 x 1606, which is only 6.2MP. Using an anamorphic lens allows you to record using the full 4K area of the sensor, thus retaining all those pixels so the resulting 2.39:1 footage retains 8 million captured pixels instead of just 6.2MP.

This is a still image recorded on the GH5 through the Sirui 35mm 1.33x anamorphic lens. The top image represents what the view looked like, and the second image is how the image looks once the lens has squeezed the wide aspect onto the 4:3 sensor. In software, I de-squeezed the 4:3 captured frame to 16:9 so that the subject would look normal.

Some cameras, like the Panasonic Lumix GH5 and GH5s offer a specific Anamorphic mode that allows the whole 4:3 sensor area to be used to record the footage. In this mode, the GH5 can create 6K footage in which each frame contains the full 20MP resolution of the sensor. When that image is de-squeezed to produce the anamorphic final result those 18 million pixels will still be present.

If you were to use a 1.33x anamorphic lens like the Sirui 35mm F1.8 the footage de-squeezes to a 16:9 format, but one that contains 18MP instead of the 14MP you’d get by simply cropping the full frame to 16:9. Even then, cropping this 16:9 image to 2.35:1 will deliver a higher resolution frame than shooting with a 16:9 area of the sensor in 4K – 10MP instead of 8MP.

Here’s the Cooke 32mm T2.3 Anamorphic/i 2x lens on the Lumix GH5 – well, it’s more like the camera is on the lens rather than the other way round. With the camera in its Anamorphic Mode the 4:3 sensor-captured image de-squeezes to make a 2.66:1 CinemaScope format picture.

The difference is more pronounced when using lenses with a greater than 1.33x anamorphic squeeze factor. A 2x lens, such as the Cooke 32mm Anamorphic/i would create a 2.66:1 output from the full area of a 4:3 sensor or a 3.5:1 final result from a 16:9 area. So, if you were cropping 4K footage to match those aspect ratios you’d end up with 3840 x 1444 pixels (5.5MP) for a 2.6:1 format or 3840 x 1098 pixels (4.2MP) for 3.5:1 format. Both of those represent a significant drop in resolution from the original 8MP of 4K footage – which is all preserved when using an anamorphic lens.

Resolution isn’t the only benefit

Retaining decent resolution isn’t the only reason to shoot with an anamorphic lens: these lenses have specific characteristics many people find attractive.

The almost trademark blue streak extending across the frame of an anamorphic picture comes from point light sources reflecting in the surface of the anamorphic cylinder and spreading out across the scene.

The most commonly recognized characteristic is a blue streak that shoots across the frame when a point light source is aimed at the camera – a car headlight for example. This is caused by direct light reflecting off the anamorphic cylinder and then spreading out left and right across the frame.

Obviously, these blue lines are more prevalent in lenses that have the anamorphic cylinder at the front of the construction, and much less obvious in those that place the cylinder at the rear. The new Arri/Zeiss anamorphics spread the cylinder effect throughout the lens construction, rather than having a specific group of elements to do the job, which allows a degree of control over how dominant the blue streaks will be. In more regular anamorphics the blue streak effect can be played up with reflective coatings inside the forward elements to enhance the color of the streak and how easily it can be ‘activated’.

The bulbous anamorphic cylinder can be a magnet for light and can reduce contrast when even off-center lights are pointed towards the lens.

As well as this specific type of flare, light falling on the front element will create an overall flare that in turn can give anamorphic footage a low contrast atmosphere even when contrast is quite high. This again depends on the design of the lens. Older lenses tend to flare more easily while newer designs aim for more contrast and allow filters to be used when lower contrast is desirable.

The oval shape of out-of-focus highlights is usually demonstrated in night scenes with distant car lights, but this characteristic is also visible during daylight hours. Here you can see the light between the trees – which would usually appear round – takes on an upright oval shape.

The other immediately recognizable characteristic of anamorphic lenses is the elongated shape of out-of-focus highlights. These highlights – a street light in the distance for example – would reproduce bright discs in pictures taken with a normal spherical lens, but when shot using an anamorphic lens they appear as ovals. In fact, all out-of-focus details are reproduced with an elongated shape that exaggerates the degree to which things are out of focus. This in turn only makes the focused subject stand out more.

The appearance of an extra-shallow depth-of-field is further enhanced by the complications of the altered angles of view we get with an anamorphic lens. A lens with a 1.33x anamorphic effect will have its marked focal length widened by the anamorphic factor – so a 100mm 1.33x lens would deliver the angle of view of a 75mm (100 divided by 1.33 = 75). With more dramatic anamorphic lenses the effect is more pronounced too, so a 1.8x which would give that 100mm the view of a 56mm. The final look is of a 56mm lens that exhibits depth-of-field characteristics similar to those we would expect from a 100mm lens.

Above you can see how the same scene is reproduced differently by a normal spherical lens and an anamorphic lens of the same focal length. I used the Lumix X-Vario 12-35mm set to 35mm to compare with the new Sirui 35mm 1.33x anamorphic lens.

The camera-to-subject distance remained the same, as did the F2.8 aperture, but there is a slight difference in the degree to which the background appears out-of-focus. As you can see, the subject appears much smaller in the anamorphic images due to the extra width of the view, so naturally, a photographer would normally get closer to make the subject fill the frame, and thus increase the shallow depth-of-field effect simply by using a closer focus distance to achieve the same subject magnification.

What is also clear from these images is that the anamorphic lens delivers a considerably wider view for the same marked focal length. This comparison also shows the shape of out-of-focus highlights from the same scene rendered quite differently.

Is it worth the effort?

That’s a matter of opinion of course, but those wanting to make the most of all the tools available to influence the audience will say ‘yes’. The look is special and it can add something very substantial to the atmosphere of a film. As mentioned earlier though, an anamorphic lens can’t make a poor film into a good film, compensate for bad lighting, primitive camera work or wooden acting – it is only a part of the many elements that can make a movie an award winner or a rotten tomato.

Street lights just out of the frame (and a high ISO setting) contribute to a nice soft contrast in this scene, even though the actual scene was filled with deep shadows. The look and feel of the shot are different enough to that which we would expect from a regular spherical lens that we can tell there is a certain something else about it. The highlights and background details look a bit different and there is a wide feel but without the usual distortion of a close perspective.

Anamorphic photography also isn’t suited to all subject types, and while not a fast rule it tends to work best with drama rather than documentary. The widescreen says ‘now I’m going to tell you a story’ and can prepare the audience for all the exaggeration that makes a story moving, dramatic and emotional, while more regular formats might be better for presenting strictly factual information.

There are in-between cross-over areas though that still work well, such as those old wildlife films that present factual information with a deep Hollywood voice-over and in which all the lions in the family have a name and roam the grasslands to the sound of a full studio orchestra.

There’s also a sense of cinema about a still shown in anamorphic format

In stills photography, what an anamorphic lens will give us is something a bit different. ‘Different’ is something I value, though obviously ‘good different’ rather than the other. ‘Different’ makes our work stand out from the rest, and as there aren’t many stills photographers using anamorphic lenses ‘different’ is what you will get.

There’s also a sense of cinema about a still shown in anamorphic format, and with the built-in characteristics of an anamorphic lens that inherent atmosphere will feel stronger, making it possible to present movie-stills filled with an implied storyline – without actually having to go to the bother of shooting the movie.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Lensrentals tears down the Canon 600mm F11 IS STM

25 Aug

Roger and Aaron of Lensrentals are back with a new lens teardown, the Canon 600mm F11 IS STM. While it’s not the lens Roger usually goes for (he’s a self-proclaimed connoisseur of ‘high-priced wide-aperture lenses’), this lens fills a niche in the photography world and both Roger and Aaron were interested to see how exactly Canon packs a 600mm focal length into a compact body that weighs just 2lbs.

Before any screws are removed, Roger breaks down the new gapless diffractive optics Canon uses inside the lens. Instead of the first-generation of Canon’s diffractive optics technology, the 600mm uses gapless diffractive optics, which Roger says is ‘basically market lingo for ‘instead of an air space between the DO elements, we invented some special glue.’

An illustration from Canon showing the difference between the first-generation DO optics and the second-generation ‘gapless’ DO optics.

It wouldn’t be a Lensrentals teardown without a few hiccups along the way and this proved no exception. Due to the unique extending-barrel design of the lens, the teardown proved to be a bit more of a learning curve.

The twist-and-lock ring used for extending and locking the lens in place for used being removed.

After getting through the rear lens mount, it was onto the extending section of the barrel. Canon uses a series of metal guides to stabilize the lens when extended. Roger notes these were ‘quite solid pieces of metal going the length of the lens.’

A close-up look at the guides that run along the length of the lens and provide structural integrity when extended.

As you would expect for such an interesting design, the ribbon cables inside were a bit more challenging to trace out than the typical Canon lens. Roger and Aaron made it halfway through the lens before eventually offering up ‘some 4-letter prayer words to the high priests of Canon engineering, because, well, nothing was coming apart.’

So, rather than risking further damage, the duo turned the lens over and started tearing it down from the front of the lens. As was expected after seeing the initial flex cable running down the lens, the electronics of the lens proved to be much different than what’s often seen inside Canon glass, with interesting angles, plenty of tape and even flex solder being used. Despite the differences though, Roger notes that the lens is very much a Canon lens in the optics department.

A close-up view of the front-most element, which in this case is the diffractive optics group.

The duo had gotten as far as they could before Roger was due to leave, so they wrapped it up. In Roger’s summary, he notes that the lens’ electronic construction was very different for a Canon lens, while the optics had a ‘very Canon look, with numerous optical adjustments/compensations using their new, large eccentric collars.’ Roger says he’s convinced these new larger collars are used ‘because Canon is doing automated optical adjustment of subgroups during assembly.’ He adds that ‘nobody else is adjusting to this degree or in this manner.’

You can check out the full teardown in all its glory over on the Lensrentals blog.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Meyer Optik Görlitz announces its new Lydith 30mm F3.5 II lens for full-frame, APS-C mounts

25 Aug

Meyer Optik Görlitz is back at it again with the release of a new prime, the Lydith 30mm F3.5 II. While it bears the same name as its predecessor, which was released under the previous owners of the Meyer Optik Görlitz brand via Kickstarter back in 2017, this new version features an entirely new optical design and construction.

Like its predecessor, this mark II version is based on the original Lydith lens, released back in 1964. OPC Optics, the new owners of the Meyer Optik Görlitz brand, doesn’t share the exact optical construction, but if it’s true to the original 1964 lens, it will feature five elements in five groups.

The original Lydith F3.5 lens and its optical construction.

The lens features a minimum focusing distance of 15cm (6in), features a stepless aperture (F3.5–16) and has a 52mm front filter thread. It comes in a variety of full-frame and APS-C lens mounts, including Canon EF, Fuji X, Leica L, Leica M, M42, MFT, Nikon F, Pentax K and Sony E.

Below are a few low-resolution sample photos, captured with the lens:

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The lens is currently available to purchase from the Meyer Optik Görlitz website and authorized retailers for $ 900.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Kayaking the White Salmon river with Rush Sturges and the Panasonic Lumix DC-S1H

25 Aug

The Panasonic Lumix DC-S1H is a powerful video camera, designed for enthusiast and professional filmmakers.

A more specialized tool than the DC-S1 and S1R, the S1H is packed with video-centric features including 4:2:2 10-bit internal shooting, 400Mbps recording and unlimited record time, plus a wide range of compression and high-speed shooting options. Featuring a stabilized 24MP sensor, the S1H can shoot video at up to 6K. But really, this is a 4K powerhouse, intended for serious professional use.

Join cinematographer and lifelong kayaker Rush Sturges as he takes the S1H to the White Salmon river, to see what it can do.

S1H sample images by Rush Sturges

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This is sponsored content, created with the support of Amazon and Panasonic. What does this mean?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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PhotoPlus announces it’s going digital as it cancels its in-person expo this year

24 Aug

PhotoPlus announced this morning it is canceling its in-person event, opting instead to host its annual photo conference online due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

PhotoPlus 2020 was originally set to take place at the Javits Center in New York City from October 22–24. Despite numerous other photo conferences being canceled, PhotoPlus insisted the in-person event was still taking place, until today. In a press release, event director Joseph Kowalsky said:

‘The difficult decision was made after consulting our community partners and supporters and closely monitoring the ongoing progression of the COVID-19 pandemic in the U.S.’

To replace the in-person event, PhotoPlus announced PhotoPlus+, which will be an ‘online experience and community bringing together visual storytellers with the tools and services they need to create.’ The event is designed to be a broader event, with product showcases, live demos, gear launches, networking events and more taking place starting November 1, 2020.

You can find out more information and register for the online PhotoPlus+ event on the PhotoPlus website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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