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Posts Tagged ‘working’

Nokia allegedly working on 5-camera smartphone

08 Sep
Image: Device Specifications

We recently learned that HMD Global, the current owners of the Nokia smartphone brand, regained the rights to use the iconic Nokia PureView moniker which used to differentiate Nokia phones with outstanding camera capabilities, including the 808 PureView and Lumia 1020 PureView.

If rumors are true, it looks like HMD Global might soon launch a new smartphone that is truly worthy of the PureView badge. A leaked photo has surfaced that appears to show a Nokia smartphone with five cameras on the back, arranged in a circular shape.

If the information and photo are genuine, it looks like mobile photographers will have something to look forward to in the near future

Apparently the photo was taken during a small-scale production run at an unknown location in April 2018. A first test batch was produced in December 2017. On the back of the device we can see the Nokia, Zeiss and Android One logos and the five cameras which could include super-wide-angle, telephoto, black-and-white and depth-sensing modules in addition to the main camera. There are also an LED flash and an autofocus sensor.

As usual, we should take this kind of rumor with a pinch of salt, but if the information and photo are genuine, it looks like mobile photographers will have something to look forward to in the near future.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Adobe reportedly working on full Photoshop version for iPad

13 Jul

Software maker Adobe offers several Photoshop-branded apps for Apple’s iPad, for example Photoshop Express, Photoshop Lightroom, Photoshop Mix and Photoshop Fix. However, none of the mobile apps even come close to offering a the comprehensive feature set found in the Adobe Photoshop desktop application.

According to a report by Bloomberg, this appears to be about to change, though. Sources familiar with the matter have told the publication that Adobe will announce a full-fledged Photoshop version for the iPad at its annual conference in October and make it available sometime next year. That said, given the project is still in its early stages, deadlines could be moved.

The introduction of the iPad Pro and its popularity within the creative industry have likely changed Adobe’s mind and lead to the decision to rewrite its software for Apple’s underpowered tablet – compared to desktop computers anyway. When the app is available, Creative Cloud users will be able to seamlessly switch between the iPad and other devices they are using.

Would you use Photoshop on an iPad? Let is know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Working with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

01 Jun

There are three fundamental settings in landscape photography: the ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed (known as the Exposure Triangle). While all of these are equally important to understand in order to create technically correct images, there’s one that’s extra important when it comes to an image’s visual impact. Adjusting the shutter speed makes a big difference and is often what can make your image stand out from the crowd.

Choosing the ideal shutter speed is not an easy process though. There rarely is a single correct shutter speed but there certainly are scenarios that benefit from a specific one. In this article, we’ll look at a few different scenes and how the shutter speed affects each of them.

Working with Fast Shutter Speeds

The easiest shutter speed to work with is a fast one. Working with fast shutter speeds doesn’t require a tripod and you can easily photograph subjects that quickly pass by. This is also the most common choice for most beginning photographers as it doesn’t require much effort (and most auto functions choose a relatively fast shutter speed).

Below you have a typical example of when you need to use a fast shutter speed. In order to freeze the motion of the deer, I had to increase the shutter speed to 1/320th of a second. Had the deer been moving at a higher tempo I would have to increase the shutter speed even more to avoid any motion blur.

deer in a field - Working with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

Photographing animals is not the only time where you should use a fast shutter speed though. In the image below, I used a shutter speed of 1/1600th.

Why did I use such a quick shutter speed for that scene? By the looks of it, the water is quite still, there are no moving subjects and there’s still enough light to use a slightly slower shutter speed, right? Yes, however, this shot was taken from a boat and even though the waters were relatively still, I needed a very quick shutter speed in order to freeze the scene without any blur from camera movement.

iceberg and water - Working with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

Use the ideal settings not perfect ones

Had I been standing on land, I could have easily used a slower shutter speed and achieved a similar look. In fact, the overall quality could have been even better as I could have used a lower ISO and an ideal aperture. However, the purpose of photography isn’t to always have the perfect settings; it’s having the ideal settings that allows you to get the shot within the given conditions. The most important is to actually capture the image.

For too long I was too focused on always having the perfect settings. The truth is that this often leads to missing the shot as you focus too much on the technical aspect rather than working with the conditions you’re given.

For example, using a slower shutter speed when standing on a boat (such as in the image above) would have led to the icebergs being blurry due to the motion. What would you prefer? A blurry picture which is “technically” perfect, or a sharp picture that doesn’t have the technically perfect settings?

Before we move on to slower shutter speeds, let’s look at a few more scenarios where a fast shutter speed is recommended:

  • When photographing handheld.
  • Photographing quickly moving subjects.
  • When aiming to freeze motion.
  • When photographing from a vehicle.

Working with Slow Shutter Speeds

In landscape photography, the difference between slow shutter speeds is much bigger than between fast shutter speeds. While you won’t see a huge difference between 1/320th of a second and 1/640th of a second (in most cases) you may see a big difference between 10 seconds and 60 seconds. Because of this, I’ll split this section in two parts: less than 30 seconds, and more than 30 seconds (Bulb Mode).

dark image with moving water - Working with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

The definition of a long exposure is somewhat vague but in my Ultimate Guide to Long Exposure Photography eBook, I describe is at the shutter speed where you no longer can capture a sharp handheld image. Typically, this is in the range of 1/50th of a second, depending on your camera and focal length (a longer focal length requires a quicker shutter speed to capture a sharp handheld image than a wide-angle).

Shutter speeds up to 30 seconds

While the difference between a 1 second and 30-second shutter speed is big, it’s more natural to put these together in one section to keep this easier to follow. Still, I’ll try to break it up a little to give you an idea of which shutter speeds you should experiment with in different situations. Again, there’s no correct choice and it often comes down to your preference and the tools you’ve got to work with.

When photographing beaches and seascapes where waves are crashing onto the shore or forming around rocks, I often work with a shutter speed of 0.5-1 second. I find that this creates a nice blur in the water while still keeping enough texture. A slower shutter speed such as 8 seconds blurs the water but not enough to give it the “silky” effect you often see with long exposure photography (we’ll come back to that in a bit).

waves crashing on a rocky shore - Working with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

This also applies when photographing waterfalls and rivers. I tend to use a semi-slow shutter speed rather than an ultra-slow shutter speed when working with these scenes, as I prefer to keep some textures in the water.

As you lengthen the shutter speed you’ll see that moving elements become more and more blurry. In the image below, I used a shutter speed of 20 seconds to blur the water and give some motion to the sky. If you look at the clouds, you can see that they have been moving and it’s starting to have the “dragged sky” effect.

seascape scene - Working with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

Keep in mind that the speed of the clouds determine how slow the shutter speed needs to be in order to pick up this motion. When clouds are moving quickly you can pick up their motion even with a shutter speed of 5-10 seconds, but to really get the “dragged sky” effect you often need to use a shutter speed (or exposure time) longer than 30 seconds.

Shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds (Bulb Mode)

In order to achieve a shutter speed longer than 30 seconds you most likely need to activate Bulb Mode.

When I first got into long exposure photography and purchased my first 10-Stop ND filters, I immediately got hooked on these ultra-slow shutter speeds. I’ll admit that I don’t do as much of it anymore (as it rarely fits with the vision I have for most locations) but it’s certainly a lot of fun to play with.

The main reason to use a shutter speed longer than 30 seconds for landscape photography is to achieve the “dragged sky” effect and to completely blur out moving elements such as water. It can also be a good way to remove people from your images (if they walk around during your 2-3 minute exposure they most likely “disappear”).

sunset on a coastal scene - Working with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography

For the image above I used a shutter speed of 180 seconds. As you can see, this has completely blurred the water and the sky is dragged across the frame.

Conclusion

Working with longer exposures can be a lot of fun but it’s not something that’s always beneficial. For example, when photographing a scene that doesn’t have any moving elements (and no clouds), there’s no need to use an ultra slow shutter speed, as it will most likely look exactly the same with a slower one.

So knowing how to select the best or most appropriate shutter speed takes practice, and comes down to what you want to achieve in your image.


For more information about this and other aspects of this type of photography, check out my Ultimate Guide to Long Exposure Photography eBook,

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Working with Overlays and Actions

25 May

Since my childhood, I’ve been dreaming about inventing two things.  The first is a teleporter.  Yes, you read it right, but please imagine teleporting from the ‘Star Trek’ movie not from the horror movie ‘The Fly’!   With teleport, people could forget about long queues, tedious trips and expensive taxis.  The second thing I have been dreaming about is a Continue Reading

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NASA is working on an aerial ‘Fluid Cam’ that can see through ocean waves

27 Apr

We know more about the surface of the moon and Mars combined than we do about our own ocean floor, according to NASA Ames scientist Ved Chirayath, which is why he is developing a camera that can remove the water from our seas to reveal 3D images of what’s below the waves. Using a grant from Earth Science Technology Office, Chirayath is working on a project that uses both hardware and software to see and map the floors below great bodies of water as though the water isn’t there at all.

In the video above, Chirayath explains that it is hard to see the ocean floor due to the waves on the surface, but his Fluid Cam uses software called Fluid Lensing to image objects in up to 10 meters of water.

While he doesn’t explain exactly how this technique works, he does say it requires a camera with a lot of processing power, as the software runs on-board. The camera he shows in the video uses a Leica Elmarit-M 28mm F2.8 lens on front of what is described as a ‘high performance’ camera. We are told it uses a 16-core processor and has 1TB of RAM, and that it outputs data at a rate of 550MB per second.

At the moment, the camera is in the test stage and has been used attached to a drone, but NASA hopes that the technology will be housed in airplanes and satellites in the near future, so wider areas can be mapped and explored.

The project was unveiled on the NASA website as part of the agency’s program to mark Earth Day. For more information, visit this link.

Press Release

New Camera Tech Reveals Underwater Ecosystems from Above

Scuba divers and snorkelers spend vacations visiting exotic coastal locations to see vibrant coral ecosystems. Researchers also don their gear to dive beneath the surface, not for the stunning views, but to study the health of the reefs that are so critical to fisheries, tourism and thriving ocean ecosystems.

But one person can only see so much coral in a dive. What if you wanted to assess coral over an entire region or see how reefs are faring on a global scale?

Enter Ved Chirayath of NASA Ames Research Center in Silicon Valley, California. He has developed a new hardware and software technique called fluid lensing that can see clearly through the moving water to image reefs. Imagine you’re looking at something sitting at the bottom of a swimming pool. If no swimmers are around and the water is still, you can easily see it. But if someone dives in the water and makes waves, that object becomes distorted. You can’t easily distinguish its size or shape.

Ocean waves do the same thing, even in the clearest of tropical waters. Fluid lensing software strips away that distortion so that researchers can easily see corals at centimeter resolution. These image data can be used to discern branching from mounding coral types and healthy coral from those that are sick or dying. They can also be used to identify sandy or rocky material.

So far Fluid Cam, the imaging instrument that carries the fluid lensing software, has flown only on a drone. Someday, this technique could be flown on an orbiting spacecraft to gather image data on the world’s reefs.

That amount of data would be painstaking to sort through to look for specific coral attributes. So Chirayath’s team is cataloging the data they’ve collected and are adding it to a database to train a supercomputer to rapidly sort the data into known types – a process called machine learning. Because of the technology developments in both the tools to collect the data and the machine learning techniques to rapidly assess the data, coral researchers are a step closer to having more Earth observations to help them understand our planet’s reefs.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

02 Apr

My wife can be very unkind about my photography. She’ll often flick through my edits and ask me where the good shots are… I don’t think she has cottoned on to the fact that us creative types are deeply sensitive.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

She said to me recently:

Wouldn’t it be amazing to show people how many bad shots you take before you get any good ones?

She is most obviously not a photographer…

But then I started to think about how much time we photographers spend putting out our very best work, and only our best work – as we should!

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I started to think that perhaps she was right. Maybe it would be good to show you the photos I took before I got the shot before I nailed it. Definitely a good teaching idea.

There’s a book I love by Magnum photographers who published a collection of their contact sheets. It shows all the mediocre shots of some of the great masters of the art. That is kind of reassuring, right? If even the masters can’t get it right with one shot, there’s hope for the rest of us!

But also shows the process of refining an interesting scene into a great shot.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Photographic composition is all about being able to see interesting elements out there in the world and arranging them in a pleasing, interesting way. That sounds easy enough, right?

Here are some examples of what kinds of things I notice – and how I work the shot from being a good to great composition.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Scene One

I was in Hong Kong and I was totally awed by the density of skyscrapers, the busy port, intensely colorful lights and the tropical weather.

I am usually a great lover of capturing the emptiness of cities at first light – but for me, Hong Kong was all about evening and nighttime. The play of lights and finding intriguing moments to capture amongst the density of excitement of the city became my goal.

Walking around on my first evening in Hong Kong I saw a red sign in the blue twilight that caught my eye. It had a great contrast of colors. I noticed a nice shapely arrangement of skyscrapers in the distance that created an impressive background across the image.

I’d use a wide aperture to make them a bit soft and create more depth with my red sign. Good start, I’m thinking!

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

But this isn’t very interesting, right? So I tell myself, “Stop fixating on the red!” Red does tend to keep our attention longer than it really deserves. I start to look around for something else to add to the frame because the elements I have so far are not super-interesting.

I ask myself, “Where are the balance and harmony? Why did I cut my subject in half? Was I so drawn to the skyscrapers that my subject became a secondary thought?”

Yes, that is what I did. I fixated on the red sign and I took a rubbish shot because of it. Where was all my great compositional skill? The image could definitely be improved. So, I move around the scene and moved back.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Okay, this is getting better. Although – can you see in the top right-hand corner there is a little wedge of something. Now I know you can remove things in post-production – but I always aim to get the frame as perfect as possible in camera. It’s more fun for me that way. Plus, if you aren’t checking your corners you are not considering the whole frame, the whole composition.

There is one important point that is obvious here which I tell all of my students – check your corners! I am a believer that you will not create consistently great images if you do not practice total photography. Your subject is only one piece of the perfect puzzle you are attempting to create.

That image you have in your head needs to be constructed – all the pieces assembled with intent. This is a skill separate from camera skills that you must also practice. Just keep shooting with intent and it will come.

Getting back to my images, “Now I’m getting somewhere” I thought. These elements next to the sign, including the circular mirror (why didn’t I see that first? I blame the red!) and the orange light look very compelling to me. So I recompose ever so slightly…

That time though the orange light was off – it was blinking! It took me several frames to get the timing right and capture the orange light.

So after a few minutes of working the scene, I end up with this:

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Bang! Now, this is the one. Can you see what’s different in this shot? What I got by moving a little more, and also by timing the shot just right?

You want to get the most impact with every element in your photo. And those details in the mirror are very cool.  You can see how I made the reflection really pop in post-production by creating a circular mask just on the mirror and increasing the contrast, exposure, and clarity some. Sweet.

Scene two

I was in a very industrial part of the city. There were shipping containers everywhere and signs of work around the port. It was an intriguing scene because the ubiquitous skyscrapers were looming in the background.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

But the first shot I took, above, is not very interesting, even with decent composition (again it was me thinking that red is really good!) Can you see where I might have thought that there are some interesting elements here that I could work to juxtapose?

I walked up a little further and some vests caught my eye which could be juxtaposed with a backdrop of buildings. But the next shot is not right either.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I saw the work vests and the skyscrapers and thought of the disparity of wealth in this world, especially in cities like Hong Kong – it’s staggering! I got the idea to juxtapose these elements and work a narrative into the image (always a good idea).

I also like this contrast of imagery. You have the workers’ vests draped over the rails – almost like they are exhausted – with the strength and power of the vertical lined building next to them. There is lots of structure contrasted against the softness (weakness) of the workers’ vests.

Even if the narrative was coming together, the photo was not. So I moved around and see what else I could conjure up.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

In the shot above I moved back and took in a wider view of the scene. I was really liking this now. The shape of the shipping containers shot at this angle, with the skyscrapers looming in the background works. I still had that strong structure but now with the addition of dynamic lines. Juicy!

I wasn’t totally happy yet – the balance was still not right between the foreground and the background. I needed balance to make the composition neutral and let the viewer pick a side, so to speak.

So I moved a bit more and then – bang – I got the shot.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I am proud of this shot because it displays some of my favourite techniques to compose with – line and form.  These all help to construct a narrative.

I often see people on my workshops who will work a scene, but they stop before they have taken their very best shot because they are thinking “Oh, I can work this in post-production. I can crop it, etc.” Or they’re thinking that it’s “good enough”.

Working to find the very best composition definitely pays off. You will never regret spending those extra minutes just being still and looking at a scene for angles and new ideas. You need to make that kind of effort all of the time. And don’t forget to use your imagination. Make up a story. Open yourself to random crazy thoughts. You never know where they may take you creatively.

The cool thing is – you’re loving every moment because you’re out making images. What could be better right?

Scene Three

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

This last series of images was taken in Havana, Cuba. I was walking about with my assistant just absorbing some back streets when we came upon this scene with the factory smokestack over a residential neighborhood. Ouch! The light couldn’t have been better – it was just before sunset and the light was very warm.

My first instinct when I come upon something that strikes me is to take a shot. I think we all do it. But it is not necessarily a bad thing, as long as you accept that there is more to be done.

So I took the reactionary shot above. Dull and uninspired I thought. After looking at the scene a little more I felt motivated to get something, anything else.

I had a dedicated flash on my camera for some other types of images I was making so took this next shot, with the idea of getting a great image with the smoke. But this too was more of a reaction to the young man in the frame – maybe if I timed it right I would get a good pose.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Nope.

I realized at that point that I was shooting way too wide for what I saw in my head as a vision for this scene. It wasn’t totally clear what that was yet but I knew those first two shots were not it. No way.

I kept moving towards the smoke (at that point our eyes started to itch and our mouths had the taste of bad oil). Next, I took this image:

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

The man on the fourth floor stands out to me but not to my lens. Way too wide for that – still, this is somewhat better than the previous two shots. I didn’t really want to take an image of the old man sitting at the bottom left of the frame. It is really not my style to be invasive without being social to people first and I was interested in the smoke (fixated really).

At that point, though (a good 3-4 minutes since the first frame shot), I was after a great image. So I took one of the old guy sitting down (I said hello first):

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

Better. This is a very good image but I wanted one where the smoke was more prominent. I knew I could create that image in my head if I just kept looking for it. So I walked a bit more. I still had my 17-40mm on the camera (I believe it or not, that was all I had with me) and got really close to the smokestack, regardless of my burning eyes and itchy skin.

But right underneath the smokestack, it became substantially more ominous and horrible and I instantly knew how I felt about it – confused and frightened. So I took this last shot and was really pleased with it.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

It is an odd composition without a lot of “rules”, which I feel is reflected well in the chaotic nature of the wires and the industrialness of the location, even though there were children practically under my feet. Finally, I got my smoke!

Conclusion

I hope you enjoyed that little meander through my shots. I like to think that turning my head inside out can give you a bit of insight into the creative process.

Here are the key ideas points covered in this article:

  • Find a subject or scene that you are fascinated by.
  • Work the scene until you have the best shot you can get.
  • Move around!
  • Be patient – wait for the best light, best weather, interesting people or expressions – whatever it takes.
  • Have perseverance.
  • Use your imagination to create narratives. Open up.

Tips for Working the Scene to Take Your Image from Good to Great

I would love to know if you found this process I go through to capture my shots useful? Does it help to see that we all take a bunch of boring shots? Taking photos is more than just pressing a shutter (anyone can do that), but an artist is something we all are inside and photography is our journey/path in finding that inner artist.

Please comment below and let me know what you have learned or how this might have helped you. Thanks!

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Working with Overlays and Actions

21 Mar

Since my childhood, I’ve been dreaming about inventing two things.  The first is a teleporter.  Yes, you read it right, but please imagine teleporting from the ‘Star Trek’ movie not from the horror movie ‘The Fly’!   With teleport, people could forget about long queues, tedious trips and expensive taxis.  The second thing I have been dreaming about is a Continue Reading

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Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

07 Mar

At some point in your photography journey you may be fascinated by pictures capturing living creatures in great detail, flowers close-up, and in general intimate vistas, which may go unnoticed in our daily viewing habits. Such shots are commonly described as macro photography.

Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography - red flower

The purpose of this article is to provide you with theoretical and practical insight, to help you select lenses for macro photography with focal lengths suitable for your style.

What is macro photography?

The Collins English Dictionary defines macrophotography as: extremely close-up photography in which the image on the film is as large as, or larger than, the object. Extending this definition into the world of digital, the word “film” can be replaced by “sensor”.

The terms magnification and reproduction ratio (RR) are two ways of quantifying this definition. They describe how big the capture on the sensor is as compared with the subject you are photographing.

  • “As large as” means that whatever object is captured it is the same size om the sensor as it is in real life (magnification of 1x or x1 and RR of 1:1).
  • “Larger than” means if the image on the sensor is N times the actual life size of the subject, the magnification is then Nx and the RR is N:1.

An important distinction has to be made between the image on the sensor and the printed image. 1cm of object captured on 1cm of sensor may appear on a typical 10x15cm print as much bigger than 1cm.

It is important to note that not all lenses are capable of reaching 1x (1:1) magnification, even if they contain macro in their name. So it is important during your gear selection to know what is a true macro versus a marketed as a “macro” lens. This does not mean that you cannot and will not make breathtaking close-up pictures with that lens, it just means that you will only able to reach lower magnifications and RRs (e.g. a 0.25x magnification = RR of 1:4)

Now that we have established the realm of macro photography, there are a couple of other terms that are essential in this article.

Other definitions

Minimum focusing distance (MFD). This is a lens’s construction characteristic. According to Nikon, MFD is the shortest distance at which a lens can focus. In the case of DSLR Cameras, the focus distance to the subject is measured from the focal plane mark on the camera body, not from the front of the lens. MFD is important because 1:1 or life size RR only happens at the MFD of any true macro lens.

2 focal plane mark - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

The focal plane mark on a D750 is shown below to the left of the strap handle.

Minimum working distance (MWD). This is the distance from the subject to the front of the lens barrel (excluding the lens cap if used), while the lens is set to its maximum magnification (i.e its MFD).

On the web, there are various tools to help calculate MWD. This is a lens and camera combination characteristic, as different cameras contribute differently to the MWD (even if minimally so). A simple graph illustrating MFD and MWD is shown below.

MFD MWD - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

The purpose of this article is to practically demonstrate the difference in Minimum Working Distance between two lenses of different focal lengths, as well as some implications that arise from this difference.

Gear and settings

For the examples used in this article, two macro lenses, the Tokina 35mm f2.8 and the Sigma 150mm f2.8 were mounted on a Nikon D750. This will demonstrate the MWD difference between two considerably different focal lengths (short versus long).

4 Tokina 35 Sigma150

5 D750 - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

The supporting platform (all-important for macro photography) consisted of a SIRUI T-025X carbon-fiber tripod, a Manfrotto 410 Junior Geared Tripod Head and a Velbon Super Magnesium Slider Macro Rail. A Nikon ML-L3 remote was used to trigger the shutter to avoid adding additional vibrations.

6 Platform tripod - Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography

Quick comparison

Let’s start with a 1:1 macro shot of an everyday item like a coin. In the photographs below the coin was shot 1:1 with both the 35mm and 150mm lenses. Rulers were placed to show the sensor size of 35.9 x 24.0 mm. The difference of a few mm is probably ruler set-up error on my part.

35mm lens

Ruler in cm and mm showing the size of the image on the sensor. This is 1:1 which would be 24x36mm.

 

The distance needed to shoot the coin at 1:1 with the 35mm lens.

150mm lens

1:1 shot showing the images size on the sensor, 36mm which is fully 100% for a full frame sensor 24x36mm.

 

The distance needed to shoot the coin at 1:1 with the 150mm lens.

I measured an MWD of 19.5cm for the 150mm and only 1.8cm for the 35mm!

To see how this big difference affects a real-world shooting scenario, the owner of a close by flower shop allowed me to use his grounds and beautiful flowers. Continue reading for more info on this.

Doing macro photography of flowers with different focal lengths

To obtain the 1:1 photo shown below, the 35mm lens needs to actually be on top of the bulb as shown in the second shot.

10 150 bulb

A similar shot was done using the 150mm lens.

9 35 MWD

35mm lens in close to get a 1:1 shot.

11 150 MWD

While getting a similar photo with the 150mm lens is much more comfortable.

12 screen

The settings for both flower macro shots were as seen here.

Focal length matters even more in macro photography

Macro photography is exciting. In the words of Roman Vishniac, “In nature every bit of life is lovely. And the more magnification we use, the more details are brought out, perfectly formed, like endless sets of boxes within boxes.”

However, in my experience, macro has more gear and technical considerations than other popular subjects (e.g., portrait or landscape), especially as magnification goes up. One primary point of concern is the Minimum Working Distance of the lens used (true macro or not). This will determine significantly, in my view, the ease of use of the lens and the subsequent willingness you may (or may not) show towards doing macro photography.

Working distance issues

Apart from static subjects, where you may be okay to handle a short MWD. But if at some point you want to shoot bees or other living critters, then most probably you will want a longer MWD. This will help you to not scare away your subject and also to avoid being bitten/stung by it.

Additionally and importantly, a longer working distance will allow access to more light (natural or flash). You can imagine the limitations trying to introduce extra light to the 35mm setup shown above. Things will get even more cramped if you introduce closeup lenses or do lens reversal to reach even higher magnifications.

A rough proposed working classification of focal lengths in macro photography could be as follows:

  • Focal lengths up to 60mm – Useful in product photography (e.g. jewelry) and small objects that can be approached and lit in a controlled environment.
  • 60-150mm – Usable with caution for insects, flowers, and small objects from a greater distance.
  • Above 150mm – Ideal for critters where additional working distance and additional lighting options are preferred.

Finally, there are other considerations, such as perspective differences due to varying focal lengths. These are more aesthetic than technical and not in the scope of this article.

The post Working with Different Focal Lengths for Macro Photography by Konstantinos Skourtis appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Marketplace Your business Working with Technological Improvements

05 Mar

Currently, the marketplace turns into pretty competitive and it is rising so speedy. You can find numerous product or service promotions every single day utilizing lots of approaches along with the assist of technological advances. All international locations are affected by worldwide crisis though the gazebos in no way fails to establish. Its action and function isn’t going to deteriorate. Most manufacturers keep on seeking for your finest method in city to create their products much more popular towards the general public. For a consequence, publicity turned associated with know-how to facilitate far better suggests of promotion.

To deliver affirmative outcomes to your organization, you’ve got to request the assistance of mass media and Environment Broad World wide web making sure that people today would learn about your marketing. Even though the use of technological innovation might bring about you to definitely invest lots of funds since it is quiet costly, you’ll continue to acquire earnings if the review and assumptions are fantastic and perfect more than enough. Choosing the best means in products marketing using the aid of technology wants an intensive study and examination. Make a concrete prepare of your action prior to utilizing it. Generally have in mind that your decline won’t ever be obtained once more unless your item is going to be accepted via the public after the promotion.

Be reminded that each one businesses are accomplishing their greatest. You cannot just ignore them in order for you to become as competitive as well. With that, consider some of all those trendy techniques wherein technology is connected. Never mind about your financial commitment in the event you would be ready to get back it following a thriving marketing. There are actually numerous rewards and alternatives of good final result should you will opt for top technology approaches such as the applied of tv commercials, radio broadcasts, on the net net posting, plus a large amount extra.

We know for just a undeniable fact that the media plays the most important job in disseminating information and facts to your general public. In case you will choose for just a tv industrial, there exists a really higher probability of finding your products to become identified within the public. As people will look at and listen to regarding your ad, an thought will pop up to their minds and can check out your item as they’ll visit the supermarket. You can by no means regret employing this sort of approach nevertheless high-priced because it’s now established and tested by lots of providers and manufactures. However, you will find some considerations that you have to not neglect such as the presentation or the industrial alone. Obviously, you have got to decide on for versions and you really need to pay out them accordingly. This can be the cost which you need to bear just to industry your organization within a substantial quality process.

The usage of World wide web is additionally quite renowned at present. Most organizations have their own individual on-line internet sites which acknowledge online orders. We’ve been all informed that folks are getting so hectic for their function. Therefore, consumers will just desire online shopping which can be more available and effortless that going in the grocery store or buying malls to but what they will need. You could market your products and solutions on the internet by expanding the net targeted visitors. This can only be attainable if there are actually posts and blog site posts to be posted in different internet sites referring to the solution you want to advertise.

The post How to Marketplace Your business Working with Technological Improvements appeared first on Photonovice.

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Sony is working on high-sensitivity dual-camera setup

26 Feb

If you were hoping for the new Sony Xperia XZ2 models to feature a dual-camera setup, you were disappointed. Sony is by far the largest maker of image sensors but the Japanese manufacturer’s own smartphone models still have to make do without the dual-cam technology that has almost become a standard on high-end devices.

That said, there is a good chance the wait for a Sony-branded dual-camera smartphone might be worth it. Sony executives told us the company was working on a dual-camera solution that would allow for low light shooting with ultra-high sensitivities – ISO 51200 in stills mode and ISO 12800 for video.

A test scene with extremely low illumination inside a black box is used to demonstrate the performance of the the dual-cam prototype (top) compared to a current model (bottom).

No further technical detail was provided at this point but given the camera module will be powered by a new “Fusion” Image Signal Processor, it’s fair to assume the high sensitivities will be achieved by some kind of computational imaging process, merging image data captured simultaneously on the two sensors of the dual-camera.

This is not a totally new concept – for example Huawei is merging image data from an RGB and a monochrome sensor on some of its dual-camera models – but given Sony’s bold high ISO claims there is a good chance its engineers have found another secret ingredient to boost performance to new levels.

Sony claims the new system is pushing smartphone low light performance into ILC territory.

A low-light demo setup behind the scenes at the Sony booth shows that the new system is capable of capturing good exposures in extremely dim lighting. Given Sony’s typical announcement cycles, we’ll probably have to wait around 6 months (i.e. until IFA in September) to see how the system performs in a production device but it’s definitely something to look forward to.

The Fusion ISP is an essential component in Sony’s upcoming low-light dual-camera setup.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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