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Posts Tagged ‘Versatility’

Video: Photographer Martin Henson shows the versatility of pinhole cameras from his backyard

11 Jun

UK-based photographer Martin Henson has recently published a video showcasing his pinhole photography process. An experienced film and digital photographer, Henson combined a 4×5-inch pinhole camera with Ilford FP4 film to capture a photo of flowers in his back garden. The result will show that one doesn’t need to travel far to capture beautiful images.

With his pinhole camera laying in the undergrowth and pointing toward the sky through the flowers in his garden, Henson also used an orange filter to darken the blue in the sky. The pinhole camera captures a wide field of view, so Henson must look down from above through the flowers to get a sense of how they will be arranged within the frame. After settling on the location for his camera, he must then determine the correct exposure.

When determining the correct exposure, Henson must consider that the Ilford FP4 film he’s developing is rated at ISO 200, but with the addition of the orange filter, he must compensate for an additional stop. Henson then places his light meter on top of his pinhole camera and meters at ISO 100. The reading states a 1/15s exposure at an F22 aperture. For Henson’s pinhole camera, he then had to convert this exposure time to an F216 aperture, which results in an exposure time of 6.5 seconds. Further, accounting for the reciprocity of Ilford FP4 film, the final exposure time is 12 seconds.

As you can see in the video above, after making his captures, Henson then slid the dark slide back in and developed the image. As he states, his video shows that the pinhole camera is a versatile photographic tool. It can be placed in positions and allow for compositions that would be ‘virtually impossible with a normal camera.’

The finished image, Chaos, is up for auction on eBay. There’s much more to learn about pinhole photography and analog photography in general. Henson has additional excellent resources. You can visit his large format photography forum and his black and white photography forum. He has recently published another pair of videos about pinhole photography on his YouTube channel, which can be seen above.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: The Panasonic FZ1000 II combines versatility and value

12 May

Introduction

All product photography by Dan Bracaglia

The Panasonic FZ1000 II is a 20-megapixel long-zoom bridge camera aimed at enthusiasts. With snappy performance and a bright, far-reaching 16x optical zoom lens, it offers a lot of versatility in a fairly compact, travel-friendly package. And for bonus points, it can also record 4K video.

Key specifications:

  • 20.1-megapixel, 1″-type BSI CMOS sensor
  • ISO range of 125-12,800, expandable to 80-25,600
  • Leica-branded 16x optical zoom lens, 25-400mm equivalent with a bright F2.8-4 maximum aperture
  • Five-axis image stabilization
  • 49-point autofocus with face/eye detection
  • Shoots continuously at 12 frames per second without autofocus, 7 fps with continuous AF, or 30 fps in ‘4K Photo’ mode
  • High-resolution OLED electronic viewfinder and tilt/swivel touchscreen LCD
  • Capable of UHD 4K/30p or Full HD 1080/60p video
  • Battery rated for 440 shots per charge on LCD or 290 shots thru viewfinder (CIPA)

The Panasonic FZ1000 II is available at an MSRP of $ 899.99 USD. Street prices at the time of writing are in the region of $ 800 USD.

Having 400mm of reach on tap gives you plenty of opportunities to capture the details as well as the overall picture. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 200 | 1/125 sec | F4 | 400mm equiv.

What is it?

The FZ1000 II aims to provide a one-size-fits-all solution yielding tons of versatility and excellent image quality, but without the bulk and hassle of an interchangeable-lens camera and lenses. And without a bulky camera bag full of extra lenses, the idea is that you’ll be able to get the shot in almost any shooting situation.

As a good all-rounder, it’s a solid option for the family documentarian

From a generous 25mm-equivalent wide-angle all the way to 400mm-equivalent telephoto – and whether shooting distant subjects or macros from as close as one inch or 2.5cm (at the widest end of the lens) – the FZ1000 II’s bright F2.8-4 stabilized lens caters to all manner of subjects and shooting styles. And since it’s paired to a swift and relatively large 1″-type image sensor, you can expect good burst performance and good image quality, even in low light.

The Panasonic FZ1000 II’s combination of versatility and portability make it a great choice for travel, nature and casual sports photographers. As a good all-rounder, it’s also a solid option for the family photographer or documentarian. It has relatively few rivals, with the nearest of these being its predecessors and Sony’s popular RX10-series, although they differ in some important ways.

Panasonic’s updated JPEG engine churns out really nice colors and pretty good detail – plus, 400mm of reach guarantees you some subject separation (otherwise known as bokeh-liciousness) even on a 1″-type sensor. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 160 | 1/60 sec | F4 | 400mm equiv.

Panasonic FZ1000 II compared

Panasonic FZ1000 II Sony RX10 IV Sony RX10 III Panasonic FZ2500 Panasonic
FZ1000
MSRP (at launch) $ 899 $ 1699 $ 1499 $ 1199 $ 899
Sensor 20MP 1″-type BSI- CMOS 20MP 1″-type stacked CMOS 20MP 1″-type stacked CMOS 20MP 1″-type BSI-CMOS 20MP 1″-type BSI-CMOS
Lens (35mm equivalent) 25-400mm F2.8-4 24-600mm F2.4-4 24-600mm F2.4-4 24-480mm F2.8-4.5 25-400mm F2.8-4
Built-in ND filter No No No Yes No
AF system Contrast detect Phase detect Contrast detect Contrast detect Contrast detect
LCD 3″ 1.24M-dot fully articulating 3″ 1.23M-dot tilting 3″ 1.23M-dot tilting 3″ 1.04M-dot fully articulating 3″ 921k-dot fully articulating
Touchscreen Yes Yes No Yes No
Burst rate (with AF) 7 fps 24 fps 5 fps 7 fps 7 fps
Video 4K/30p, cropped 4K/30p 4K/30p 4K/30p, cropped 4K/30p, cropped
Wi-Fi Yes, with NFC and Bluetooth Yes, with NFC and Bluetooth Yes, with NFC Yes Yes
Battery life (CIPA) 440 shots 400 shots 420 shots 350 shots 360 shots
Dimensions 136 x 97 x 132 mm 133 x 94 x 145mm 133 x 94 x 127mm 138 x 102 x 135 mm 137 x 99 x 131mm
Weight 808 g 1095 g 1051 g 915 g 831 g

Compared to its predecessor, the FZ1000 II is a largely similar camera with some worthwhile control and handling improvements, a more generous buffer and a much more attractive menu system.

The sister model Panasonic FZ2500, meanwhile, is a better choice for movie shooters with an even longer-zooming, albeit slower lens with separate focus and zoom rings and, crucially, a two-stop neutral density filter built in. The FZ2500 also gains log shooting, better quality HDMI-out features and the option for wider Cinema 4K capture for higher-end users. However, its lens underperformed in our testing. For $ 100 less, the FZ1000 II has noticeably better battery life, is a touch lighter and has Bluetooth connectivity for faster pairing to download images to your smart device.

LensEquivalentApertures([“Equivalent focal length (mm)”,”Canon G3 X”,”Panasonic FZ2500″,”Sony RX10 IV”,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II”], [[24,7.6363636363636367,”Canon G3 X at 24mm: F7.6″,7.6363636363636367,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 24mm: F7.6″,6.5454545454545459,”Sony RX10 IV at 24mm: F6.5″,null,””],[25,null,””,7.9090909090909092,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 25mm: F7.9″,6.8181818181818183,”Sony RX10 IV at 25mm: F6.8″,7.6363636363636367,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 25mm: F7.6″],[26,null,””,null,””,null,””,7.9090909090909092,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 26mm: F7.9″],[27,8.7272727272727284,”Canon G3 X at 27mm: F8.7″,null,””,null,””,null,””],[28,null,””,8.1818181818181834,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 28mm: F8.2″,7.6363636363636367,”Sony RX10 IV at 28mm: F7.6″,null,””],[30,null,””,8.454545454545455,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 30mm: F8.5″,null,””,8.1818181818181834,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 30mm: F8.2″],[32,null,””,8.7272727272727284,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 32mm: F8.7″,null,””,null,””],[34,null,””,null,””,null,””,8.454545454545455,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 34mm: F8.5″],[35,9.5454545454545467,”Canon G3 X at 35mm: F9.5″,9.0,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 35mm: F9.0″,8.7272727272727284,”Sony RX10 IV at 35mm: F8.7″,null,””],[39,null,””,9.2727272727272734,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 39mm: F9.3″,null,””,null,””],[41,null,””,null,””,null,””,8.7272727272727284,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 41mm: F8.7″],[43,null,””,9.5454545454545467,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 43mm: F9.5″,null,””,null,””],[47,10.90909090909091,”Canon G3 X at 47mm: F10.9″,null,””,null,””,9.0,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 47mm: F9.0″],[49,null,””,9.81818181818182,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 49mm: F9.8″,null,””,null,””],[51,null,””,null,””,null,””,9.2727272727272734,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 51mm: F9.3″],[56,null,””,10.090909090909092,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 56mm: F10.1″,9.5454545454545467,”Sony RX10 IV at 56mm: F9.5″,null,””],[58,null,””,null,””,null,””,9.5454545454545467,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 58mm: F9.5″],[60,12.272727272727273,”Canon G3 X at 60mm: F12.3″,null,””,null,””,null,””],[63,null,””,null,””,null,””,9.81818181818182,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 63mm: F9.8″],[69,null,””,10.363636363636363,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 69mm: F10.4″,null,””,null,””],[70,null,””,10.636363636363637,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 70mm: F10.6″,null,””,10.090909090909092,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 70mm: F10.1″],[79,null,””,10.90909090909091,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 79mm: F10.9″,null,””,null,””],[81,13.636363636363637,”Canon G3 X at 81mm: F13.6″,null,””,null,””,null,””],[84,null,””,null,””,null,””,10.363636363636363,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 84mm: F10.4″],[91,null,””,11.181818181818182,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 91mm: F11.2″,null,””,null,””],[100,null,””,null,””,10.90909090909091,”Sony RX10 IV at 100mm: F10.9″,null,””],[102,null,””,11.454545454545457,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 102mm: F11.5″,null,””,null,””],[105,null,””,null,””,null,””,10.636363636363637,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 105mm: F10.6″],[151,null,””,11.727272727272728,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 151mm: F11.7″,null,””,null,””],[163,15.272727272727273,”Canon G3 X at 163mm: F15.3″,null,””,null,””,null,””],[170,null,””,null,””,null,””,10.90909090909091,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 170mm: F10.9″],[208,null,””,12.000000000000002,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 208mm: F12.0″,null,””,null,””],[262,null,””,12.272727272727273,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 262mm: F12.3″,null,””,null,””],[400,null,””,null,””,null,””,10.90909090909091,”Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II at 400mm: F10.9″],[480,null,””,12.272727272727273,”Panasonic FZ2500 at 480mm: F12.3″,null,””,null,””],[600,15.272727272727273,”Canon G3 X at 600mm: F15.3″,null,””,10.90909090909091,”Sony RX10 IV at 600mm: F10.9″,null,””]], {“isMobile”:false})

Full-frame equivalent maximum apertures across respective zoom ranges for the FZ1000 II and its nearest peers. Smaller numbers are better.

As for Sony’s Cyber-shot RX10-series, both the RX10 III and RX10 IV are significantly more expensive than the Panasonic FZ1000 II but they have longer zooms which are brighter than the FZ1000 II at their wide ends. Optically, they’re superior overall with sharper results on the wide and telephoto ends and generally more consistent across-the-frame quality (dig deeper with our bridge camera lens shootout on page 2). They’re also smaller and offer better video quality with more video capture tools and features, too. Perhaps most significantly, the RX10 IV comes with on-sensor phase detection autofocus and far higher burst rates; the FZ1000 II’s autofocus is great for general use, but its performance and modest burst speeds aren’t a match for the Sony for sports and action.

If you’re after something more compact and can live without the bright maximum aperture, you may also want to consider the even more compact Panasonic ZS200 / TZ200, ZS100 / TZ100 or Sony RX100 VI or VII instead. Lastly, if you’re after the most zoom you can get, you might look at the likes of Nikon’s P950 or P1000, which give you insane reach but utilize smaller sensors, and therefore outright image quality won’t match what the FZ1000 II is capable of.

While the FZ1000 II’s lens isn’t quite a match sharpness-wise for Sony’s RX10 III and IV, it does get you a good amount of detail throughout the zoom range. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 125 | 1/400 sec | F4 | 300mm equiv.

What’s new?

Although it sports a new, modestly-restyled body with several new or redesigned controls, the Panasonic FZ1000 II is largely the same camera as its predecessor in terms of its imaging pipeline. The sensor size and resolution are unchanged, and so too is the lens which sits afront that sensor, in all respects but one: its aperture iris can now stop down to F11 across the zoom range, where that in its predecessor was limited to F8.

Instead of being a brand new camera from the ground up, this is a honing of an already-impressive one. On the outside, Panasonic has added a new front control dial, as well as three new function buttons on the left of the lens, which replace the FZ1000’s lens ring and stabilization switches.

The bottommost button defaults to a new ‘zoom compose assist’ function which racks the zoom towards wide-angle while the button is pressed to help you relocate your subject, then zooms back in as soon as you let go. This is handy, but would be even more so if the lens zoomed a little faster, as it takes about 3.5 seconds to traverse the full range in both directions.

Around back, the viewfinder now has slightly higher magnification, and the tilt/swivel display is the same resolution as before but uses a new panel that should be brighter and more efficient. But neither change is significant enough that you’d notice without comparing both cameras side-by-side.

What you will notice, however, is that the LCD is now a touch-screen, and the menu system is both better organized and more modern looking. And modern niceties like Bluetooth connectivity and in-camera USB charging have been added to the spec sheet.

Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 125 | 1/60 sec | F8 | 400mm equiv.

The remaining changes are all on the software side. There are two new black and white photo styles we’ve seen on other recent Panasonic cameras – L.Monochrome and L.Monochrome D – and new focus and aperture bracketing functions as well.

Panasonic has also extended its ‘4K Photo’ modes, which grab or generate photos from short video clips. In-camera ‘post-focus’ lets you pick where you want the plane of focus to be after the photo has been taken, and focus-stacking will work in-camera to stack multiple planes of focus so that, particularly with macro work, all is in accurate focus. There are also 30-frame pre-burst functions, as well as auto marking and sequence composition functions, the basics of which we cover here.

The FZ1000 II’s JPEG engine deals pretty well with high-dynamic-range scenes, but processing the Raw files is your best bet to really maximize image quality. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 125 | 1/80 sec | F3.8 | 25mm equiv.

What stands out about the camera?

I’ve been a big fan of large-sensor, long-zoom cameras ever since I reviewed the first in the category, the Sony Cyber-shot RX10, back in 2013. And when I followed that up with a review of the original FZ1000, I called it an ‘exceptionally fun camera to shoot with’, and said that while the then-flagship Sony RX10 had much to recommend it, including its superior lens and video quality and tools, I’d personally choose the Panasonic of the two if spending my own hard-earned cash.

After a long five-plus year wait, I’m thrilled to have finally gotten hands-on with the Panasonic FZ1000 II, and doubly so to report that it addresses a couple of key concerns I had with its predecessor. Raw buffer depth and battery life were both areas where I felt Panasonic needed to revisit its design, and it did just that.

Compared to its predecessor, the FZ1000 II doubles the burst depth when shooting in Raw format. And battery life has also improved, with a CIPA rating of 440 shots on a charge when using the rear screen, up from 360 shots on the FZ1000.

While the contrast of this image evokes a certain mood, you might be surprised at just how much detail lurks in the shadows if you process out the Raw file. Out-of-camera JPEG
ISO 125 | 1/80 sec | F3.8 | 59mm equiv.

Sadly, you’ll still pay a steep penalty if you favor the electronic viewfinder, as battery life plunges to just 290 frames, down just fractionally from the 300 frame life reported for the FZ1000. Basically, if you’re mainly using the rear screen, you should be able to get through two-ish days of photo-focused endeavors. If you prefer the viewfinder, it’s more around a day and a half. If you’re a keen photographer, we’d recommend keeping an extra battery close at hand.

That said, I’m thrilled to see USB charging added to the FZ1000 II. It makes a lot of sense that a camera aimed at helping you to travel light should free you from the standalone charger, so you can pack even lighter and share chargers you’re likely already carrying for other devices.

It’s a bit of a shame that the arrival of USB charging is accompanied by the removal of the standalone charger from the product bundle, though. If you want to charge a second battery while shooting, you’ll now need to budget an extra $ 30 for the Panasonic DE-A79B charger.

The FZ1000 II does a decent job of balancing noise reduction with detail retention, but you may want to tweak the noise reduction settings or shoot Raw for best results. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 1600 | 1/60 sec | F3.3 | 51mm equiv.

In-hand, this is a very comfortable camera, even with my larger-than-average hands. It’s got a fair heft to it, about the same as an entry-level DSLR with kit lens attached, but it’s well-balanced and doesn’t feel unduly heavy, especially given the far-reaching, bright zoom lens.

The new front control dial is a welcome addition that makes exposure adjustments quicker. And the three new function buttons on the left of the lens, which replace the FZ1000’s lens ring and stabilization switches, give a positive click when pressed, and are very easy to locate by touch so long as you’re not wearing gloves. (But would be near-impossible to feel if you were.)

Really, my only complaint about the FZ1000 II’s controls is that you can’t zoom and autofocus at the same time. With fast-paced action like sports, I found this behavior sometimes cost me shots. Thankfully, in most other situations it’s not a concern.

Another thing I’d like to see changed is the location of the metal tripod mount, which sits well to one side of the lens’ optical axis. That’s not the best location for shooting tripod-mounted panoramas, and it’s also very close to the battery/storage compartment door, meaning that if you use a tripod plate you’ll likely need to remove it every time you change the battery or memory card.

Lastly, the FZ1000 II comes with no claims of weather-sealing whatsoever. For such a versatile travel camera that you’re likely to have with you in a variety of situations, it’d be a welcome feature. But beefed-up sealing would increase cost: the latest cameras in Sony’s RX10-series do offer claims (but no rating) of weather-sealing, and they are more expensive.

The FZ1000 II’s lens has an effective image stabilizer built-in, but no neutral density filter. Good thing you can now stop-down to F11 for daylight pans. Out-of-camera JPEG.
ISO 125 | 1/60 sec | F11 | 65mm equiv.

As for the on-screen user interface, I’m a huge fan of the FZ1000 II’s overhauled menu system. It’s much cleaner, more modern and less disorienting than the original FZ1000, and now now fits eight items per page, instead of six, and you can tap on any individual item on each screen to adjust it directly. There’s also a new My Menu feature where you can save your own favorites. Although its basic structure is broadly similar to before, it feels more like a night-and-day change from the old menu, and I love it!

I’m a big fan of the FZ1000 II’s output as well. Just as with its predecessor, I found white balance and metering to be accurate the majority of the time, and color was also a nice balance between accuracy and the punchier look consumers tend to favor. Out-of-the-box, JPEGs will look more detailed and have more pleasing color than the older model, though Raw performance is essentially unchanged. If you’re pushing the highest ISO values the camera is capable of, consider switching to Raw instead of just shooting JPEG – we’ll look at this in more depth with our studio scene on the following page.

JPEGs will look more detailed and have more pleasing color than the older model

For an in-depth look at the lens performance vs. its peers, jump to our lens shoot-out on page 2 here. Overall autofocus performance is more than adequate, with the FZ1000 II quick to lock focus accurately in all but the most difficult conditions, and not keeping me waiting as I rattled off burst of shots around my adopted home of Knoxville, Tennessee. The phase-detection autofocus system of Sony’s RX10 IV is far more effective for action, but I found the fast contrast-detection autofocus on the FZ1000 to be fast enough for most subjects.

The FZ1000 II uses Panasonic’s ‘Depth-from-Defocus’ contrast detection autofocus system. It’s very quick and very accurate, especially in single AF (AFS), and works well for a variety of subjects. Eye and face detect generally work well, but they have to be manually enabled separately from the camera’s subject tracking mode. Unfortunately, while you can expect a pretty good hit-rate in continuous AF (AFC), the image will wobble in and out of focus while doing so, and you might find this distracting.

Aperture comparison: F8 vs. F11
ISO 125 | 1/5 sec @ F8 (left) vs. 0.4 sec @ F11 (right) | 400mm equiv.

I’m also glad to see the minimum aperture has been extended across the board, if only because it expands your options somewhat. (The FZ1000 had an unusually abbreviated lower limit of just F8, which has been extended to F11 for the FZ1000 II.)

As you can see in my attached samples, the difference in depth of field when you stop down that little extra isn’t game-changing, though, and it comes at the expense of slight but noticeable softness across the entire image due to diffraction. (Diffraction limiting is already kicking in by around F4.5.)

Photo Styles: Standard (top) vs. L-Monochrome (bottom left) and L-Monochrome D (bottom right)
ISO 125 | 1/2,500 sec @ F2.8 | 400mm equiv.

I found some of the new creative options – especially focus bracketing, and the 4K Photo post focus / focus stacking features – to be a lot of fun. There are definitely some limits to bear in mind with the latter beyond its lower eight-megapixel resolution, however.

Firstly, you’re limited to fairly high shutter speeds when using 4K Photo, which means ample light is needed if the results aren’t to become too noisy. And secondly, more than a little subject or camera motion will easily cause rendering issues when images are stacked in-camera. I found that loading the 4K Photo video frames and stacking them in Photoshop can frequently fix these concerns, though, so it isn’t likely due to rolling shutter but is perhaps a limitation of the camera’s processing.

20.1-megapixel, standard full-resolution image
ISO 125 | 1/250 sec @ F4.0 | 400mm equiv.
4K Photo Post Focus: Focused on front flower (left) vs. rear flower (right)
ISO 1600 | 1/800 sec @ F4.0 | 355mm equiv.
4K Photo Focus Stacking: In-camera (left) vs. Adobe Photoshop CC v21.1.2
ISO 1600 | 1/800 sec @ F4.0 | 355mm equiv.

Conclusion

As I said at the outset of this review, I was already a big fan of the original Panasonic FZ1000. And that’s just as true of the FZ1000 II. I think it’s quite remarkable what Panasonic has managed to pack in, at less than half the price of the Sony Cyber-shot RX10 IV. Heck, even the four-year old RX10 III still costs a full $ 500 more than the FZ1000 II.

And in fairness to Sony, the FZ1000 II is definitely less camera in some respects, especially when it comes to high-speed burst capture, autofocus and movie recording capabilities. Its lens is also not as sharp or as consistent, albeit still great for most purposes. If you’re aiming to photograph action with any regularity, Sony’s RX10 IV is a better bet in spite of the extra cost due to its phase-detection AF system. If hardcore video is more your thing, you’ll definitely want to consider the FZ2500 or RX10 III / IV thanks to more advanced video features and better quality.

But if you aren’t a big video or peak-action shooter and want the most bang for the buck, the Panasonic FZ1000 II is absolutely worth a close look, just as its predecessor was some five years ago.

Shadows recovered in Adobe Camera Raw 12.2.1. See out-of-camera JPEG here.
ISO 1250 | 1/80 sec @ F3.8 | 74mm equiv.

Scoring

Panasonic Lumix DC-FZ1000 II
Category: Enthusiast Large Sensor Compact Camera
Build quality
Ergonomics & handling
Features
Metering & focus accuracy
Image quality (raw)
Image quality (jpeg)
Low light / high ISO performance
Viewfinder / screen rating
Optics
Performance
Movie / video mode
Connectivity
Value
PoorExcellent
Conclusion
The FZ1000 II is a great all-around bridge camera with a good zoom lens, capable 1"-type sensor and excellent ergonomics. We appreciate the level of control and customization available, and the image quality is solid. It's not the most capable camera in its class, but it's also far from the most expensive, and is well worth a look.

Good for
Those looking for an all-in-one solution for travel photography and casual video capture.

Not so good for
Those wanting to regularly shoot fast action and the highest-quality video.
83%
Overall score

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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FLM CP-Travel tripod aims for ultimate in portability and versatility

08 Jul

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German photo accessory manufacturer FLM is launching a new travel tripod on indiegogo. The CP-Travel will be made of ten layers of carbon fiber and will be able to support up to 10kg/22lb of gear. When fully collapsed, the tripod will fit in a carry-on suitcase, with a maximum height of 142cm/55.9in when completely extended.

The CP-Travel offers interchangeable rubber and spiked feet, using a revamped changing system that the company calls more secure and better able to dampen vibrations. Seeking funding to send the CP-Travel tripod into production, FLM is offering early bird discounts to its first backers. The company anticipates a final $ 635 MSRP when it becomes available in October.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX85 impresses with image quality, versatility

19 Jun

Key Features

  • 16MP Four Thirds MOS sensor
  • Electromagnetically driven shutter
  • Depth from Defocus AF
  • 2.76M-dot field sequential EVF
  • 1.04M-dot tilting touchscreen display
  • 4K video / photo
  • 5-axis image stabilization with Dual I.S.
  • Bouncable pop-up flash
  • Wi-Fi

The Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX85 is a mid-range interchangeable lens camera sporting a 16MP Four Thirds sensor and 4K video capability. In markets outside of North America the GX85 is sold as the GX80; in Japan it is sold as the GX7 Mark II.

Sliding in directly below the flagship GX8, the GX85 is targeted toward enthusiast photographers and videographers. It doesn’t use the new 20MP Four Thirds chip we saw in the GX8, instead it sticks with the familiar 16MP sensor used on many other Micro Four Thirds cameras. It also does not have the tilting EVF, weather-sealing or microphone input offered by the GX8. 

Still, the GX85 shares many of its big brother’s features like 4K photo mode, Post Focus, Depth from Defocus AF, and Dual I.S.. It also has a redesigned shutter mechanism. Shutter-induced blur (‘shutter shock’) was an issue we encountered on the GX8, which used a motor and spring arrangement in its shutter mechanisms. The new electromagnetic shutter found in the GX85 resolves this problem.

The GX85 also has no anti-aliasing filter, a first for Panasonic cameras. This should lead to better detail retention at the pixel level, but can also lead to moiré. However, Panasonic claims that the new Venus Engine image processor is specially tuned to combat moiré and false color and in use, we’ve found that it does so pretty well.

Like the GX8, the GX85 offers Dual I.S., combining sensor-based image stabilization with lens-based IS. But unlike the GX8, which has 4-axis sensor IS, the GX85 offers 5-axis sensor IS with rotation correction. Another advantage over its big bro: the GX85 can also use Dual IS during 4K video capture, something that the GX8 cannot.

Compared to its peers

  Panasonic GX85 Panasonic GX8 Panasonic GX7 Olympus PEN-F  Sony a6300
Sensor 16.0MP Four Thirds CMOS  20.3MP Four Thirds CMOS 16.0MP Four Thirds CMOS  20.3MP Four Thirds CMOS  24.0MP APS-C CMOS
Anti-aliasing filter  No  Yes Yes  No  Yes
Image stabilization Sensor-shift (5-axis) + Dual I.S.
Sensor-shift (4-axis) + Dual I.S. Sensor-shift (2-axis) Sensor-shift (5-axis) In-lens only
AF system  49-pt CDAF 49-pt CDAF 23-pt CDAF 81-pt CDAF Hybrid AF
(with 425 PDAF points)
Flash x-sync  1/160 sec  1/250 sec   1/320 sec 1/250 sec  1/160 sec
Burst rate
(with C-AF)
 6  fps   6 fps 5 fps 5 fps   11 fps
EVF res/type 2.76M-dot field sequential LCD 2.36M-dot tilting OLED 2.76M-dot tilting field sequential LCD 2.36M-dot fixed OLED 2.36M-dot fixed OLED
EVF magnification  0.7X 0.77x  0.7x 0.62x  0.7x
LCD type/res 3″ tilting touch 1.04M-dot LCD 3″ vari-angle touch
1.04M-dot OLED
3″ tilting touch
1.04M-dot LCD
3″ vari-angle touch
1.04M-dot LCD

3″ tilting
921.6k-Dot  LCD

Built-in flash  Yes  No  Yes No *  Yes
Video 2160/30p @ 100Mbps 2160/30p @ 100Mbps 1080/60p @ 28Mbps 1080/60p @ 77Mbps  2160/30p @ 100Mbps
Mic/headphone sockets No / No Yes / No No / No No / No Yes / No
Weather-sealing No Yes No No  Yes
Battery life  290 shots 330 shots 320 shots 330 shots 400 shots 
Dimensions 122 x 71 x 44 mm 133 x 78 x 63mm 123 x 71 x 55mm 125 x 72 x 37mm 120 x 67 x 49 mm
Weight (CIPA) 426 g 487 g 402 g  427 g 404 g
* External flash included in box 

It’s arguable whether the GX85 should be called the little brother of the GX8 or the true replacement to the GX7. And the different regional naming conventions for the GX85 only add to the confusion. The chart above seems to give support to both ways of looking at it: the GX85 uses the same field sequential EVF as the GX7 (although it doesn’t tilt), and what is presumably the same sensor (sans AA filter). And like the GX7, it lacks weather sealing and microphone/headphone ports but has a pop-up flash.

However, aside from its sensor and EVF, the GX85 also shares a lot of core components and specs with the GX8, such as its 49-point AF system, 4K video capture and 6 fps burst with AF. So whichever way you view the GX85, it certainly stacks up nicely to its Panasonic peers, as well as to the competition.

Part of the family: The GX85 (top) alongside its Lumix stablemates, the GX7 and GX8.

Pricing and availability 

Kitted with the collapsible 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 zoom lens, the GX85/GX80 will run you $ 799/£599/€699. In the UK and Europe it’s available body-only for £509/€599 and with both the 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 and a 35-100mm F4-5.6 for £729/€899.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Review: Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX85 impresses with image quality, versatility

14 Jun

Key Features

  • 16MP Four Thirds MOS sensor
  • Electromagnetically driven shutter
  • Depth from Defocus AF
  • 2.76M-dot field sequential EVF
  • 1.04M-dot tilting touchscreen display
  • 4K video / photo
  • 5-axis image stabilization with Dual I.S.
  • Bouncable pop-up flash
  • Wi-Fi

The Panasonic Lumix DMC-GX85 is a mid-range interchangeable lens camera sporting a 16MP Four Thirds sensor and 4K video capability. In markets outside of North America the GX85 is sold as the GX80; in Japan it is sold as the GX7 Mark II.

Sliding in directly below the flagship GX8, the GX85 is targeted toward enthusiast photographers and videographers. It doesn’t use the new 20MP Four Thirds chip we saw in the GX8, instead it sticks with the familiar 16MP sensor used on many other Micro Four Thirds cameras. It also does not have the tilting EVF, weather-sealing or microphone input offered by the GX8. 

Still, the GX85 shares many of its big brother’s features like 4K photo mode, Post Focus, Depth from Defocus AF, and Dual I.S.. It also has a redesigned shutter mechanism. Shutter-induced blur (‘shutter shock’) was an issue we encountered on the GX8, which used a motor and spring arrangement in its shutter mechanisms. The new electromagnetic shutter found in the GX8 resolves this problem.

The GX85 also has no anti-aliasing filter, a first for Panasonic cameras. This should lead to better detail retention at the pixel level, but can also lead to moiré. However, Panasonic claims that the new Venus Engine image processor is specially tuned to combat moiré and false color and in use, we’ve found that it does so pretty well.

Like the GX8, the GX85 offers Dual I.S., combining sensor-based image stabilization with lens-based IS. But unlike the GX8, which has 4-axis sensor IS, the GX85 offers 5-axis sensor IS with rotation correction. Another advantage over its big bro: the GX85 can also use Dual IS during 4K video capture, something that the GX8 cannot.

Compared to its peers

  Panasonic GX85 Panasonic GX8 Panasonic GX7 Olympus PEN-F  Sony a6300
Sensor 16.0MP Four Thirds CMOS  20.3MP Four Thirds CMOS 16.0MP Four Thirds CMOS  20.3MP Four Thirds CMOS  24.0MP APS-C CMOS
Anti-aliasing filter  No  Yes Yes  No  Yes
Image stabilization Sensor-shift (5-axis) + Dual I.S.
Sensor-shift (4-axis) + Dual I.S. Sensor-shift (2-axis) Sensor-shift (5-axis) In-lens only
AF system  49-pt CDAF 49-pt CDAF 23-pt CDAF 81-pt CDAF Hybrid AF
(with 425 PDAF points)
Flash x-sync  1/160 sec  1/250 sec   1/320 sec 1/250 sec  1/160 sec
Burst rate
(with C-AF)
 6  fps   6 fps 5 fps 5 fps   11 fps
EVF res/type 2.76M-dot field sequential LCD 2.36M-dot tilting OLED 2.76M-dot tilting field sequential LCD 2.36M-dot fixed OLED 2.36M-dot fixed OLED
EVF magnification  0.7X 0.77x  0.7x 1.23x  0.7x
LCD type/res 3″ tilting touch 1.04M-dot LCD 3″ vari-angle touch
1.04M-dot OLED
3″ tilting touch
1.04M-dot LCD
3″ vari-angle touch
1.04M-dot LCD

3″ tilting
921.6k-Dot  LCD

Built-in flash  Yes  No  Yes No *  Yes
Video 2160/30p @ 100MBps 2160/30p @ 100MBps 1080/60p @ 28MBps 1080/60p @ 77Mbps  2160/30p @ 100MBps
Mic/headphone sockets No / No Yes / No No / No No / No Yes / No
Weather-sealing No Yes No No  Yes
Battery life  290 shots 330 shots 320 shots 330 shots 400 shots 
Dimensions 122 x 71 x 44 mm 133 x 78 x 63mm 123 x 71 x 55mm 125 x 72 x 37mm 120 x 67 x 49 mm
Weight (CIPA) 426 g 487 g 402 g  427 g 404 g
* External flash included in box 

It’s arguable whether the GX85 should be called the little brother of the GX8 or the true replacement to the GX7. And the different regional naming conventions for the GX85 only add to the confusion. The chart above seems to give support to both ways of looking at it: the GX85 uses the same field sequential EVF as the GX7 (although it doesn’t tilt), and what is presumably the same sensor (sans AA filter). And like the GX7, it lacks weather sealing and microphone/headphone ports but has a pop-up flash.

However, aside from its sensor and EVF, the GX85 also shares a lot of core components and specs with the GX8, such as its 49-point AF system, 4K video capture and 6 fps burst with AF. So whichever way you view the GX85, it certainly stacks up nicely to its Panasonic peers, as well as to the competition.

Part of the family: The GX85 (top) alongside its Lumix stablemates, the GX7 and GX8.

Pricing and availability 

Kitted with the collapsible 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 zoom lens, the GX85/GX80 will run you $ 799/£599/€699. In the UK and Europe it’s available body-only for £509/€599 and with both the 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 and a 35-100mm F4-5.6 for £729/€899.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Versatility – Your Guide to Shooting Great Travel Photography

05 May

Professional travel photographers realize that the key to their business is versatility: to be able to shoot all styles of photography, and to consistently capture great shots even under very trying conditions. To be a strong assignment photographer you must identify your weakness and then work on it.

Instead of concentrating on what you shoot well why not break out of your comfort zone and try something more challenging? Some of the most experienced photographers from The WideAngle network give us their insights into a few of the specialized fields of travel photography.

DPS1 DALE MORRIS

Image by Dale Morris

PHOTOGRAPHING WILDLIFE

British born wildlife photographer Dale Morris has built a reputation as one of the most widely published photographers in South Africa. His background as a trained naturalist allows him to capture aspects of the natural world that many photographers would miss.

I’m a firm follower of the philosophy that wildlife photography is not only about getting a great image but equally about taking time out to observe, and more importantly, really enjoy the experience of being in the company of wild animals. It helps to understand that every animal stands at the center of its own concentric set of invisible circles and if something unusual (a photographer for example) steps across the outermost boundary, the animal will react (usually by becoming more alert to your presence). Move across the next circle in the set too soon and an imaginary alarm is triggered. You are now running the risk of eliciting a flight or fight response. An animal’s rear end vanishing post-haste over the horizon rarely makes for a good photo, nor does a trampled and gored camera. Move slowly and in a non-threatening manner. The secret to wildlife photography is patience, empathy, awe and a true appreciation for your subject matter.

SHOOTING MOVEMENT

Craig Pusey is a dedicated motoring and expedition photographer, who’s never scared to go the extra mile for a shot. You might see him scaling an Indonesian volcano or lying face down in an Andean stream just to get the perfect angle.

DPS2 CRAIG PUSEY

Image by Craig Pusey

The perfect panning shot takes practice. For people and animals moving perpendicular to you, aim to keep your shutter speed between 1/15th and 1/90th of a second to get a bit of blur. For faster things, like cars or galloping horses, set a speed of between 1/60th to 1/125th. Try to focus just ahead of the moving object and if you have the opportunity shoot a trial pan before your subject even arrives. (This will check exposure and focus but also make sure that no obstacles are going to get in the way of your pan…it also limbers you up!).

It’s best to start with a higher shutter-speed and then work down, but it’s also dependant on distance from you to the subject. The farther away, the lower your shutter speed will need to be to show the effect of panning. With practice you can shoot slower, and will be better be able to judge the object’s speed.

SHOOTING ARCHITECTURE

Laurence Garçon is an experienced Parisian artist, publisher and assignment photographer. She has travelled widely but has retained an unshakeable love affair with her hometown and is recognized as one of the city’s most visionary photographers.

DPS3 Laurence Garcon Misty Morning

Image by Laurence Garçon

Firstly, be aware of the highlights. Play with the speed and the aperture of your camera to avoid over-exposing sunlit walls, etc. Secondly, try to frame a composition that will best display the building. Be prepared to wait a while for something to happen (a passer-by, a vehicle): this could be the element that will be capture the soul of the quarter. Be aware that, in some countries you may need specific permission to photograph some particular buildings (especially airports, military buildings, ministries, embassies, sometimes even bridges). If you plan to publish your photograph of a single (isolated) contemporary building, try to always mention the name of the architect.

PHOTOGRAPHING INDIGENOUS PEOPLE

Axel Fassio left his home in Italy to travel the world (everywhere from Antarctica to Iceland) on assignments. In 2013 he won a first prize at PX3 Prix de la Photograhie Awards in Paris and a 3rd at the International Photographic Awards. He’s currently based in Nairobi.

DPS4 Axel Fassio

Image by Axel Fassio

Ideally, if time allows you should approach a community without a camera and hangout a bit, getting to know the elders and playing with the children. The last thing you would want to do is have to rush to take pictures. Resulting images would lack of spontaneity. A few hours are enough to create a basic ‘relationship’ within the community and the resulting images will benefit hugely.

If your time is limited, always contact the elders and ask permission to take photos. A money arrangement is common when time is tight but it’s not desirable. Negotiating to pay for each images tends only to produce aggressiveness among the people, bad memories for you and usually this shows in the shots.

Longer zoom lenses can be used to “steal” candid portraits and a wide-angle held at waist level often has the effect of bringing the viewer more intimately into the scene. It is always better to avoid clearly aiming at a person unless he/she is very comfortable and is agreeable to being photographed. In this case, a medium-length zoom is perfect for portraits.

DPS5 Wylie Maercklein

Image by Wylie Maercklein

SHOOTING PORTRAITS

Wylie Maercklein is an experienced Texas-based photographer and videographer with a specific talent for powerful portraits.

Portraits are similar to other action shots to me, in that you’re just waiting for the right moment. With a group, that moment is something larger – an externalized emotion. An action. With an individual portrait, it’s an internalized thing – it’s the moment when their defences drop just a little and you see something living behind their eyes.

LOW LIGHT AND NIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY

British photographer Jonathan Perugia has built a reputation as one of the most prodigiously published assignment photographers in the business. In addition to his freelance work he leads photography holidays with Authentic Adventures.

I love the way cities look after sunset, so I shoot a lot in low light. If you want to really explore this kind of photography, then adding a fast prime lens to your collection (if you use a DSLR) is invaluable. I use the Canon 50mm f/1.4, which is pretty good value. Another invaluable bit of kit is a tripod. Go for something as sturdy, but as light, as you can afford. Carbon fibre is ideal. Try to avoid anything flimsy. There are some good mini tripod options too, with bendy legs that will hook around a handrail at a push. Generally I avoid using flash, so I’m often at high ISOs. I recommend testing or researching your camera to see how high it will go without too much noise.

DPS6 Jonathan Perugia

Image by Jonathan Perugia

For cityscapes, the best time to shoot is the period after sunset but before dark, when there is still colour in the sky. On a clear night you can get fantastic electric blue skies with all the city lights illuminated. Note that the brighter electric lights will start to blow out as the sky gets darker, so you may want to choose your frame accordingly. If there are no bright lights in the shot, you can use longer shutter speeds to get colour out of a sky that appears dark to the naked eye. Cloudy skies reflect street lights and can look quite surreal. This is the perfect time to do classic long exposure traffic shots with streams of light from the car lights. Smaller apertures give points of light a kind of starburst effect that looks more natural than starburst filters. You’ll notice that you can start shooting into doorways, shops, windows that wouldn’t work in daylight when the light outside is much brighter than inside.

Experiment and enjoy the different effects and colour casts you get after dark – even ‘painting with light’ with long shutter speeds and no tripod. Look for pools of light from street lamps, windows, street stalls.

SHOOTING LOCAL CEREMONIES

Ingetje Tadros is a Dutch-born photographer who emigrated to Western Australia. She spends much of each year on assignment in various parts of Asia.

DPS7 Ingetje Tadros

Image by Ingetje Tadros

While shooting ceremonies pay close attention to your choice of lens. Personally I like the 35mm prime as I like to be close and look for little moments. But, I also find it important that people feel comfortable with my presence and you need to be aware of personal space. When rituals are taking place it’s important to be aware what the rules are and specifically to know where you should and shouldn’t stand. Take your time and don’t just go in snapping. Try to limit use of flash to an absolute minimum as you should be as unobtrusive as possible.

Do you have any tips on versatility? How do you approach travel photography? Please share in the comments below.

The post Versatility – Your Guide to Shooting Great Travel Photography by Mark Eveleigh appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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The Versatility of the Strobe

05 Jan

A video documenting a photoshoot showing the versatility of the strobe unit in getting different looks, even at the same location. Unlike the last one, I don’t go into great detail about the set ups and the techy stuff for photographers new to the strobing world. The set ups are really simple, and if you’ve been using lighting gear for a while you will probably be able to tell how I did it from the photos. Sometimes I used just one flash (Miranda) and sometimes two (Caroline and Emily), but never three. Hope you all enjoy! _Nathanael www.NathanaelGassettPhotography.com