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The First 3 Photoshop Blend Modes You Need to Understand

07 Jul

Photoshop can be extremely intimidating to learn, but once you start to get a grasp on some of the tools it has to offer, you’ll wonder how you ever processed photographs without it. If there’s one area of Photoshop that is both extremely confusing, and yet, extremely powerful when harnessed properly, it’s got to be the collection of blend modes. While this article won’t cover all of the options available within Photoshop, it should give you a good place to start your journey into using Photoshop blend modes.

Photoshop blend modes: a few basics to get you startedphotoshopblendmodes

  • Photoshop blend modes are found in a drop down menu at the top of the layers panel (it defaults to “Normal”)
  • There are 27 different options to choose from, including the default “Normal” blend mode.
  • Adobe has organized these 27 blend modes into six different categories
    • Normal – Contains blend modes that don’t actually blend the layer being selected. (Normal shows the layer, and the dissolve layer essentially just removes pixels from the top layer as you reduce the opacity this effect is increased).
    • Darken – These blend modes use 100% white as a neutral, they have an overall darkening effect on images.
    • Lighten – Here Photoshop is using 100% black as a neutral, they have an overall lightening effect on images.
    • Overlay – In the Overlay mode Photoshop is blending the top layer and bottom layer together in a way that adds contrast. The effect of this changes based on the opacity of the layer, and the type of blend mode selected.
    • Difference – The difference set can be referred to as the inversion group, as these blend mode options are often used to either cancel colors of the layer below it, or to invert them.
    • Hue – Here Photoshop allows you to get very creative with the HSL of the layers in question.
  • When you apply a blend mode to a layer, it takes the effect of the given blend mode and it is applied to the layer directly below it within Photoshop.

To simplify the process of trying to learn all 27 blend modes at once below, let’s learn about the three most versatile blend modes Photoshop has to offer.

The first three Blend Modes you need to learn

In all the example photographs below I’ll be using two layers to demonstrate the different effects of each of the three blend modes. The top layer is simply a white, gray, black layer and the bottom layer is the same image placed under those three colors.

3-tones

White, gray, black layer.

Multiply Blend Mode

This blend mode falls within the “Darken” group and therefore it is considering 100% white a neutral. The basic math behind how this blend mode works is that the dark pixels of the background layer are multiplied with those of the foreground layer and combined. Therefore the result you end up with is an overall darkening of the image, as the dark pixels within both layers become more significant while the light pixels are essentially removed.

blend-modes-multiply

 

As you can see in the 50% gray layer, the darker pixels from the gray foreground layer are helping to darken the layer below it.

This blend mode is great for creating shadows or removing bright pixels from an underlying layer. It can be used in conjunction with a curves adjustment layer to add additional darkness to a layer. By effecting the dark end of the curve this can become really handy when trying to emphasize shadows, or darken an image.

Screen Blend Mode

As mentioned above, the lighten group sets black as neutral and therefore when we use the screen blend mode the black layer has no effect, 100% white stays as white and the 50% gray is somewhere in the middle.

blend-modes-screen

 

In a similar mathematical method to the Multiply blend mode the screen blend mode is multiplying the light pixels of both the foreground and background layers to achieve the final blend. As you can see in the above example, at 50% gray the light pixels are made even lighter as the bright pixels of the gray layer are multiplied with those of the layer below it.

The Screen blend mode is therefore great for removing darkness from an image or can even be used to create soft glow effects around a subject.

Soft Light Blend Mode

Here the formula used by Photoshop is essentially both that of the Multiply and Screen blend modes, then that effect is divided by two. What this means is that you’ll be darkening the dark pixels and lightening the light pixels, and then dividing the end result by two (or 50% of full strength). What ends up happening is an overall increase in contrast of the image

As a result, the Soft Light blend mode, is a great way to add a bit of contrast to an image. For an even stronger effect – use the Overlay blend mode.

blend-modes-softlight

 

One of the best techniques for using this technique is to duplicate your layer and apply the Soft Light blend mode to that layer. You’ll se an instant increase in contrast which can then be fine tuned with the opacity slider of your duplicated layer.

An example of Photoshop blend modes in action

photoshopblendmodes1

Original – (placed as Full Size 750 x 378)

The original image was a bit on the flat side, so by duplicating this layer, and changing it Soft Light blend mode, you’ll notice an increase in contrast. This higher contrast look works well with the rocks, and graffiti wall behind the model.

photoshopblendmodes2

Duplicated with Soft Light blend mode

To take it a step further, a Curves Adjustment Layer was added above the duplicate layer and the blend mode was set to multiply. A layer mask was then applied to this Curves layer to reveal it only over the model’s upper body and face. By applying this small adjustment you’ll notice a bit more definition in the face and shadows.

photoshopblendmodes3

Curves adjustment + Multiply blend mode added to model’s face and upper torso to add definition and shadow detail.

These three Photoshop Blend modes are just the beginning, but the key to learning a program the size and depth of Photoshop, is to take it in bite sized pieces or you’ll get frustrated and give up quickly. I hope that by focusing your attention to just these three blend modes you’ll be able to digest the program a bit easier.

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Understand Exposure in Under 10 Minutes

13 Mar

DPS-Annie-Tao-Exposure-article-perfect-exposure-exampleThere are countless Photography books and classes that explain exposure, yet after reading or attending them, your photos may not have improved because…well, let’s be honest… some of us Right-Brainers aren’t super technical!

I recently taught a small photography class to newbies. I thought hard about how I could explain exposure in the simplest way possible. I found that a parallel example of something relatable was the best way to convey the different aspects that impact exposure.

I tested this theory by explaining exposure to my 8-year old daughter and then quizzed her. She proved the theory was a success by grasping the concepts within 10 minutes. So I’d like to share my lesson with you so you can understand exposure in under 10 minutes!

A 10-minute lesson that will change your Photography

Your DSLR camera is like your head with the LENS being your vision and the camera BODY is your brain. Your vision sees things and your brain records the details.

DPS-Annie-Tao-Exposure-article-camera-metaphor

Just like when you look at something – let’s say, a flower – your eyes see it and send information to your brain that the flower has long petals and that it is yellow. If you looked at it too quickly or it was too dark, for example, the information your brain records is compromised.

The “exposure triangle” is about how 3 things — aperture, shutter speed and ISO — work together to provide enough light for your brain (the camera) to record what you see. You need the right combination of these 3 components to have perfect exposure.

DPS-Annie-Tao-Exposure-article-perfect-exposure-example

Good exposure

For example, if you don’t let in enough light, you won’t see things very well because it’ll be too dark (underexposure).

DPS-Annie-Tao-Exposure-article-underexposure-example

Too dark, or underexposed

If you let in too much light, then it’ll be too bright and you can’t see a lot of the details (overexposure).

DPS-Annie-Tao-Exposure-article-overexposure-example

Too bright, or underexposed

APERTURE = how WIDE you open your eyes

A small aperture (a large f-stop or f-number, like f/22) is like squinting. A large aperture (a small f-stop or f-number, like f/1.4) is like having “bug eyes”.

Quiz:  If you are shooting in low light, how wide do you open your eyes? Will you see well at night if you are squinting (small aperture)?

Quiz:  What happens on a super bright day if your eyes are wide open and they’re open for a long time (slow shutter and large aperture)? Can you see well then?

DPS-Annie-Tao-Exposure-article-fish-with-eyes-open-wide-and-squinting

Aperture is how big you open your eyes – bug eyes, or squinting

SHUTTER SPEED = how LONG you open your eyes

A fast shutter, like 1/1000th of a second, is blinking super fast. A slow shutter speed, like 2 seconds, is keeping your eyes open and then blinking. The thing to remember is:  your brain is recording everything when your eyes are open. So if you or something you’re looking at is moving, and your eyes are open a long time (slow shutter), then your brain will record a blurry image.

Quiz:  If you want a crisp shot of someone jumping, how long do you need your eyes open? What will freeze the shot:  a quick blink (fast shutter) or a slow one (slow shutter)?

DPS-Annie-Tao-Exposure-article-moonglasses

ISO special glasses

ISO = special glasses that help you see in the dark

ISO is like the opposite of sunglasses. Let’s call them MOONglasses!  ;)

The higher the ISO, the thicker your moonglasses, so the more you are able to see in low light. You need thick moonglasses (high ISO) when shooting indoors or at dusk. You need very thin moonglasses (low ISO) when it’s a sunny day.

Quiz:  do I need thick, thin or medium moonglasses if I’m shooting at the beach on my lunch break?

All 3 of these things work together

Here is an example:  You are photographing your sleeping cat who is snuggled on the couch. There is not much light coming through the windows or additional ambient light. To see well, you have medium-to-thick moonglasses on (such as ISO 600). You need to have your eyes open pretty wide (large aperture, such as f/1.4). However, you don’t have great vision (you have a kit lens that only goes up to f/4.5), so you need more light to see. Thus, you leave your eyes open longer (slow shutter speed, such as 1/30th sec).

Final Quiz:

  1. In the same scenario, your cat notices you are snapping photos, so she starts walking away and leaps off the couch. You still want to photograph her. Which would you change:  how open your eyes are (aperture), how long you leave your eyes open (shutter speed), or thickness of your moonglasses (ISO)?
  2. If you increase your shutter speed because you want to freeze the image, what else would you need to change? (If you changed nothing else, the image would be too dark because you let in less light.)

Once you get the basic concept of exposure and how the three components of the exposure triangle (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) work together, turn your DSLR camera to “manual” and practice the specific settings based on different circumstances.

Want more on exposure?  Try these:

  • Your First DSLR – now what?!
  • Getting off Auto – Manual, Aperture and Shutter Priority modes explained
  • Introducing the Creative Triangle
  • Using Manual Mode: Exposure Lesson #4
  • Photo Nuts and Bolts – a dPS ebook

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50 Brilliant Photo Manipulation Tutorials to Understand Photoshop Like a Pro

18 Nov

When it comes to photo editing, the first thing that comes to my mind is Photoshop. Photoshop is the second name of creativity. Photo manipulation may be one of the funniest things you can do with Photoshop. Of course, a person should have lots of patience and time to create some truly stunning artwork, but it’s worth a try. Today, Continue Reading

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My “Smart” Phone Doesn’t Understand Me – Russell Howard’s Good News – BBC Three

20 Jan

More about this programme: www.bbc.co.uk Russell looks at the problem some Scottish iPhone users are having with their new handset.

 
 

How To understand manual photography

05 Apr

Last week I spoke about how you can use FULL AUTO to learn how to shoot manually. This week I wanted to answer a few comments that were made on last weeks post. Some people were saying that its a bad idea to “chimp” or check the back of your camera often. I fully agree that chimping is bad if you are going to shoot a picture and look every time. For more on this video click here froknowsphoto.com