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Posts Tagged ‘Punch’

How to Remove Objects and Add Punch to Your Images with Photoshop

31 May

In this article, we’ll look at an image I reprocessed after my initial edit. I’ll also share with you some tips on how to use Photoshop to remove objects from your scene that are unwanted and add some punch to your image.

Original processed version

Have you ever created an image, processed it, shared it with the world, and then decided it wasn’t quite finished? I have! In fact, I do it more often than I’d like to admit. A while back, I created a video tutorial for On1 Software showing how I used that software to process an image I took at Queen’s Bath on the island of Kauai. I was super excited to share the image because it was an incredible sunset, at an incredible location, shot during some incredible conditions, with a completely random and unscripted local in the scene to top it all off. Here’s a look at the image after processing it and creating the initial video.

How to Remove Objects and Add Punch to Your Images with Photoshop

After watching the video and looking at the final image, I decided I wasn’t 100% satisfied with the edit. I’ve used On1 Software for nearly a decade now, and still use it in my everyday workflow. It wasn’t any fault of On1, I just felt the image could be taken up another notch so decided to take it over into Photoshop to give it another go. I decided the image needed two adjustments…

#1 Remove the local at the bottom climbing up the rocks.

  • Queen’s Bath is notorious for the massive waves that crash against the shore in the winter. Nearly 30 people have drowned at this location from being washed out to sea and this guy was close to being added to the list! I decided to remove him because his movements caused him to become blurred and I felt he ended up being more of a distraction in the image than a complementary part of it.

#2 Add a bit more contrast and punch to the overall image.

  • I felt the sky and rocks were still a bit too washed out and needed a very subtle boost to bring it all together.

Second edited version completed in Photoshop

After a few minutes in Photoshop, I came up with this final (really this time!) result.

How to Remove Objects and Add Punch to Your Images with Photoshop

After working extensively in Photoshop over the past decade, I’ve developed a few tricks along the way. I’m not sure how mainstream some of them are, so I like to share them in hopes that they’ll help you as well. One of those tricks is how I remove objects that are up against other objects(as opposed to being out in the open). To do this, I use a combination of the Quick Selection Tool, Masking, and the Clone Stamp. Adding contrast and punch to the image is a bit more basic in this case, but still advanced if you aren’t super familiar with masking and brush techniques.

Here’s the video where I walk through the process step-by-step.

Let me know what you think and if you have any questions please put them in the comments section below.

Get James’ video course POST II where he walks through his entire workflow in Lightroom, Photoshop, and more from start to finish with 10 of his favorite portfolio images. Be sure to use coupon code DPS25 at checkout for an exclusive DPS discount!

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How to Give Your Landscape Photos Extra Punch in One Easy Step

09 Nov

Have you ever felt that your landscape photography is missing a little punch? You look at other photographers’ images and their colours have a very appealing amount of contrast. But no matter how much you play around with HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance), Contrast, Vibrance or Saturation, your colours just don’t get the same depth and contrast and end up looking fake and oversaturated.

The quality of the lens being used affects color greatly (more expensive lenses generally give a much better colour contrast than entry-level lenses). But there is a step that you can do when post-processing your recent landscape photos to give the colours an extra little bit of punch and contrast and more importantly, keep them from looking overcooked.

before-after

Color space

You may be aware of a term Colour space which essentially determines how devices represent colour. The two most common colour spaces are Adobe RGB and sRGB. Adobe sRGB is used on the web and for many smart devices. Adobe RGB is a little bigger than sRGB and can show more colors. However, these are not the only colour spaces around. Lightroom, for example, uses one of the largest (able to produce a larger amount of colours) called ProPhoto RGB.

But enough about colour spaces! I can already see your eyes glazing over, mine are already as I type this. But knowing that there are different colour spaces can be helpful. Knowing exactly how they work isn’t necessarily all that important.

Convert to Lab Color

The colour space that you’ll want to recognize is LAB Color. How does it work? Doesn’t really matter. But how can you use it give your images that extra punch? In this article, I’ll explain how a very simple step (and I mean simple!) that will help give your images that extra punch using the LAB colour space in Photoshop.

Okay, so first up you’re going to want to bring your image into Photoshop. Before you do this, you may need to develop the image a little in Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom. Fix up any exposure issues, correct the white balance, etc.

This is the image that I’ll use as an example.

before

This image has had very little done to it prior to Photoshop. A simple crop, general contrast and exposure correction were all that was applied.

Now that your images is open in Photoshop, the very first thing you need to do is convert it from Adobe RGB or sRGB (depending on what you have set as the working colour space in Photoshop) to LAB Color.

To do this, go to: Image > Mode > Lab Color.

The tick next to RGB Color means that Adobe RGB is currently being used.

The tick next to RGB Color means that Adobe RGB is currently being used.

Now Photoshop is using LAB instead. You won’t notice a change at all at this step because nothing has changed on your end. All you have simply done is tell Photoshop which method to use to display colours.

Add a Curves Adjustment Layer

With your image in LAB Color, the next step is to create a Curves Adjustment Layer. Once this layer has been created, you should see something like this:

lab-curves1

Generally, this doesn’t look any different to any other Curves Adjustment Layer except for one thing. Instead of having RGB in the drop down menu, you will see Lightness.

With this adjustment layer created, the next step is to click on the Lightness drop down menu. This brings up Lightness, A, B; which is what LAB is short for!

lab-curves

Adjust Channel A

Now, you need to select the A-channel. With the A-channel selected, bring in the shadows anchor point at the bottom-left corner toward the bottom-centre. You will notice the Input numbers increasing from -128. As a starting point, I like to bring this value to -100. Now, find the highlight anchor point (top-right) and bring that toward the top-centre by the same value; for -100 set it to 100.

Notice the anchor points have moved toward the centre equally?

Notice the anchor points have moved toward the centre equally?

You’ll notice strange things happening to your colours as you slide the anchor points along. Don’t panic – this is supposed to happen.

Adjust Channel B

Now do the same steps by the same values for both shadows and highlights for the B-channel.

Same steps have been done for Channel B

Same steps have been done for Channel B

NOTE: make sure your Output value remains at -128 for the shadows and 127 for the highlights. If these numbers are altered it means that the anchor point is being lifted from the bottom for shadows and dropped from the top for highlights. You just want to drag the sliders along horizontally (not move them up or down).

With both A and B channels having been done now, the colour and colour contrast of your image should look different from the original. This is how my original image looks after these steps.

This is after setting A/B shadows to -100 and highlights to 100.

This is after setting A/B shadows to -100 and highlights to 100.

Fine tuning

For me, that is looking a little overdone. But no problem! To change this, all you have to do is reduce the amount you moved the anchor points in both A and B channels. I generally find going by increments of 10 is most helpful.
If you feel your image needs more punch, then you will want to bring the anchor points closer to the centre. Just remember to keep each value across the shadow/highlight, A/B channels the same.

After increasing the numbers in my images, I felt that -110/110 in A/B worked the best (see below).

after-110

Convert back to RBG

Once you are happy with how your image looks, it’s time to change it back to RGB. To change your image from LAB to RGB, go to: Image > Mode > RGB color.

change-to-rgb

You’ll be alerted that changing modes will discard adjustment layers, but that is fine. Select OK and you’ll be brought back into RGB. You’ll notice that the Curves Adjustment layer is now gone and that your image is now the background layer. However, the effect on the colours should remain. Now you’re free to go about editing the photo as much as you like.

So that’s a very simple technique to add more colour punch in your images. Just remember these two points:

  • This is something that you should do at the beginning of editing your image in Photoshop and not the end as you will lose all your adjustment layers when changing modes.
  • Remember to alter the anchors points from A/B b by the same value to eliminate strange things happening to your colours.

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How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch

12 Sep

This may be something that you have already heard from landscape photographers. It is very important to be aware of the angle of the light (where does the light come from) to be able to get the best of a scene, and the best exposure for your image. Also, when using a polarizing filter, it is more effective when used at a 90 degrees angle to the sun for better blue sky results.

Angle of light – people photography

But when it comes to people photography I couldn’t find a lot mentioning the angle of light online. So here is what I think about it.

Keep the light behind you

When photographing people, it is also very important to be aware of the direction of the light. As I mention when teaching about composition, you should try, as much as possible, to keep the light behind you (or avoid facing the light). If the light remains behind you, the general exposure has more chance of being better, avoiding under and over exposed elements in the image.

JB 4997

Keeping the light behind you ensures a better general exposure through the whole image. Hoi An, Vietnam.

When facing the light, there are two options when it comes to people photography. You can either create a silhouette of your subjects while exposing for the brighter background. Or you can try to find a middle exposure, thus avoiding over exposing your background too much and keeping some details on the subject. This last method works very well in the early morning and late afternoon.

JB 8191
A silhouette created by directly facing the light. Isfahan, Iran.

The third option would be to expose for your subject and completely overexposing your background. I personally do not believe it looks that good though.

JB 6890

Finding a middle exposure between background and subject while facing the light works very well in the early morning and late afternoon. Kandovan, Iran.

Side light is magic

But when you put the light at a 90-degree angle, there is something magic that happens. When the light is softer and more colorful (at sunrise and sunset) it is possible to come up with some type of semi-silhouetted images. The part of your subject exposed to the light will be exposed correctly. The other part will be much darker (still preserving some details). That is going to create a more contrasty image, with a little more punch.

If you take an image which is slightly overexposed, there are no blacks in it and the histogram is slightly shifting to the right. As soon as the exposure goes down, some darker pixels will appear and add contrast to the image, making it instantly more powerful.

This is what a 90 degrees light will do to your subject: shadowing part of it and adding contrast and power to the image.

JB 4802

The light being on the right side, the back of this man is underexposed (in shadow), thus creating more contrast in the image. Hoi An, Vietnam.

For close-up portraits, the angle of the light has some superb effects on skin tones. Mostly when the tones are darker and more keen to reflect the light, this angle will enhance these tones. Because, as mentioned above, a part of your subject (the part which is not directly into the light) will be darker, the brighter parts will be enhanced.

Let’s compare

Here are two images of the same man, taken two minutes apart from each other. As you can see in the first one, the light is more even throughout the picture.

JB 2969

In this second image, there are some much darker areas on the left, adding contrast and punch to the image. The details on the skin tones are also much more interesting.

JB 4933

I hope that gives you some ideas for using the direction or angle of light to add punch to your people photography. Know where the light is coming from and make a conscious choice how to use it to your advantage.

Please share your people photos in the comments below.

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How to Use LAB Color in Photoshop to Add Punch to Your Images

19 Nov

Have you ever wished you could stretch out the color palette of your picture? Or that you could separate colors that looked too flat or close together?

Well, with Photoshop, you can – by converting your picture to something called LAB colorspace and adjusting the color there. That might sound complicated, but it is actually pretty simple. If you have ever made a levels or curves adjustment, you already know everything you need to know to accomplish this.

Grand Canyon

The left side of the picture is an anadjusted Raw file. The right side of the picture is the same except for a curves adjustment layer done in the LAB color space.

In this article, you will learn two things. First, you will learn the five simple steps to achieve color separation using the LAB color move. You can follow these steps without even understanding how any of this works and it will work just fine for you. Second, after walking you through the steps, you will see how this move works. That way, if you want to apply this move to your photos in a more nuanced fashion later it will help you to do so.

The LAB Color Move

So let’s walk through the steps of “the move.” There are five steps in this process, all of which are simple and can be accomplished in 30 seconds or less.

1.  Convert to LAB Colorspace

First, you have to convert your picture to the LAB color space. To do that, just click “Edit” on the top menu, then choose “Convert to Profile.” When you do so, a dialogue-box will pop up.  From the drop-down, choose “LAB color.” That’s all there is to it.

Convert to Profile Dialogue Box

For now, your picture looks exactly the same. All you have done is changed the way Photoshop renders color in your image (more about this later).

2.  Create A Curves Adjustment Layer

Next, you will need to create a curves adjustment layer. There are a few ways to do this, but if you don’t already have your own way, just click on “Layer” in the top menu, then choose “New Adjustment Layer,” then “Curves.” Click “OK” in the box that pops up.

Creating a New Curves Adjustment Layer

3.  Scoot in the Endpoints of the A Channel

Everything so far has been mere prelude to get you to this point, and you haven’t actually changed your picture at all yet. You have converted to the LAB colorspace and created an an adjustment layer to work on. Now the fun begins.

You will see a drop-down menu near the top of your adjustment layer and the current selection will be “Lightness.” Click on it and you will see three choices: the Lightness (or L) channel, the A channel, and the B channel. Select the A channel.

You will immediately notice that your histogram changes dramatically. Most likely, it now looks like a big spike in the middle. Don’t worry about that – that’s the way most histograms look in LAB color.

What you are going to do is grab the left (black) endpoint and drag it toward the middle of the histogram a little bit. There is no set amount to move it, but if you are looking for a little guidance drag it until the Input number reads -90.  Your picture probably just turned an ugly shade of green but don’t worry about it. Now, grab the right (white) endpoint and pull it to the left. In fact, pull it to the left the exact same amount that you moved the left endpoint to the right. You can use the Input numbers below to make sure you are moving each side in the same amount.

A Channel - before and after adjustments

That should fix the green cast. But don’t worry too much about what your picture looks like right now. Let’s go on and perform the second part of the LAB move.

4.  Scoot in the Endpoints of the B Channel

What you are going to do here is exactly what you just did in the step above, but this time you are going to do it in the B channel. So, go back to the drop-down that currently reads “A” channel. Click on that and now select the “B” channel.

As you did above, just scoot in your endpoints toward the middle of the histogram. So grab the left (black) endpoint and drag it toward the middle a little bit. Your picture just turned a shade of blue but don’t worry about it. Now, grab the right endpoint and pull it to the left the exact same amount that you moved the left endpoint to the right. Again, input values of about 90 should get you roughly where you want to be.

5.  Inspect Your Handiwork

Now it is time to see the “before” and “after” pictures of your image; this is one of the benefits of working with layers. On the right side of your screen where your layer is shown, you will see a little eyeball just to the left of each layer. For the curves adjustment layer you just created, click on the eyeball. When the eyeball disappears, you will see your picture before the adjustments you just made. Click again to see the eyeball with your changes to the image.

Eyeball On and Off - Showing Changes in Image

On the left, the eyeball is on, so the changes will be shown. On the right, the eyeball is deselected, so the changes will not be show.

Do you see how your color range has been increased? The colors should also appear more rich and vibrant. If you are not noticing much of an effect, try scooting in the endpoints of the A and B channels a little bit more (say, down to 80 if you are using the input numbers). On the other hand, if the colors look too garish to you, drag the sliders out a little bit (to say, about 110 on each side). Or you can reduce the effect by decreasing the opacity of the curves adjustment layer.

MonumentValley-halves

That’s it, you now know the LAB color move. Go ahead and switch back to your original colorspace and perform any other edits you want on your picture. Then, try this move out on a few different pictures. You will probably find that it doesn’t help pictures that already have vibrant colors, but it can perform miracles on certain landscapes you previously found too flat.

How it Works

Upon learning this move, you may have questions about how this works and why you couldn’t just do it without switching to the LAB colorspace. I will explain that in the remainder of this article.

Sailboats-halves

How LAB differs from your usual colorspace

For starters, we need to have a general understanding of how LAB differs from RGB color. So first you should understand how colors are rendered in RGB, and then we will move on to show how LAB differs.

RGB color

RGB histogram

Histograms of the RGB channels

The RGB colorspace is the standard used in digital photography. This is the colorspace that your camera uses, and the one that Photoshop defaults to. RGB simply stands for Red, Green, Blue, and that tells you a bit about how it works. In this scheme, the camera or computer starts with these three colors and then combines them to create a whole host of different colors. Thousands of them, in fact. If you are having trouble getting your head around how really light colors (say, yellow) can be created by combining red, green, and blue, understand that there are many different shades of red, green, and blue, starting with very, very light (bordering on white) shades. In fact, the way that RGB and LAB deal with lightness is a key difference between them, as you will see.

When you look at a histogram for a picture in RGB, you are seeing a combination of the values for each color channel. You can see each of the individual color channels by clicking on the drop-down labeled “RGB” in your curves adjustment layer. When you do so, you will notice that the histogram for each of the channels is different, but not that different.

LAB color

LAB histogram

Histograms of the LAB channels

The LAB color space goes about defining colors differently. Whereas RGB defines color by a combination of red, green, and blue values of different shades, LAB uses three different channels. They are: Lightness, something called the A Channel, and the B Channel. Hence, Lightness, A Channel, and B Channel are shortened to L-A-B, LAB.

But what are these channels? Let’s start with Lightness, partially because it is first, but also because it is likely to be the most familiar to you. It represents the relative brightness of the pixels without regard to color. So Lightness is kind of like a greyscale image, where each pixel is defined by how close to white or black it falls on the scale. The Lightness histogram probably looks like something you are used to. The values of a properly exposed picture with good contrast should spread out over most or all of the histogram.

The A and B Channels will likely be unfamiliar to you. Whereas the Lightness Channel defines the lightness of the pixels without regard to color, the A and B channels define color without regard to lightness. Color and lightness are addressed separately in LAB, not together as they are in RGB (more on this in a bit).

Let’s talk about the A Channel first. The “A” doesn’t actually mean anything. They just call the two color channels A and B. The A Channel is just a definition of color values based strictly on how much green on one hand, or magenta on the other, are contained therein. The very middle is actually gray, and the hues get progressively more green to one side and progressively more magenta to the other.

The B Channel works the same way as A, except that it defines color by how much blue on one side, and yellow on the other, it contains.

It might help to think about it like this. Whereas RGB renders color by defining each color as some combination of red, green, and blue, LAB renders color by defining each color as some combination of green, magenta, blue, and yellow, with lightness addressed separately. However, while each color gets its own channel in RGB, colors share channels in LAB (two per channel).

If you are starting from scratch with the LAB colorspace, try playing with it. Load a few of your pictures, go into LAB, then go into the three channels on a curves adjustment layer. Look at the effects of sliding in the endpoints of just one side of the histogram. You should start to see how the A Channel is a measurement of the balance of green or magenta. The B Channel is a measurement of the balance between blue and yellow.

The Power of LAB

Here is the really interesting bit and why LAB is so different, and in many ways superior to RGB. Look at the histogram of the A Channel of your picture. There is, no doubt, a spike in the middle. That is because LAB is such a ridiculously broad color space that all the colors you and I would consider “normal” are bunched up in the middle of the histogram. If you go outside of that bunch in the middle, you would soon get some really psychedelic colors, and beyond that you would get into impossible or imaginary colors that are outside the realm of anything we can actually use.

The impossible colors don’t matter, but what does is the effect on the histogram that all this creates. Having the colors of your image all bunched up in the middle of the histogram means that you have lots of room to scoot in the endpoints of the histogram and effectively stretch the color palate.

This move is not possible in RGB. Typically, in RGB you will not have enough space on the sides of the histogram to scoot in the endpoints. The colors will usually be stretched over most of the histogram. But even if you have room to do so on the histogram, in RGB it will affect the brightness and the color balance of the picture.

The other reason LAB is so powerful is the separation of lightness from color.  As a result of this separation, resetting the black point and the white point in the histogram of the A or B channels affects only color.  You can stretch out the colors without making them lighter or darker.

Before and after LAB color enhancements.

Before and after LAB color enhancements.

Conclusion

Just knowing and using the basic LAB color move will significantly impact your pictures in ways that were not previously possible. It is more than just an increase in saturation – it’s stretching the color palette.

This move is only possible in the LAB colorspace because:

  • The LAB colorspace is so broad that there is always room to scoot in your black points and white points on the histogram.
  • Separating the lightness values from the color values, and putting the lightness values on its own channel (the L channel) means that you can impact the colors without affecting the brightness or contrast of the image.

The the basic move is just the beginning of what you can do.  From here you can make additional adjustments to the A and B channels that will remove color casts by moving in one side more than the other.  Or you can apply masks and affect color in specific areas of your image.  Start with this basic LAB color move and you’ll see immediate improvement and soon will start seeing other possibilities.

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How to use the Contrast Checker Technique to Give Your Images More Punch

13 Jul

I am about to reveal a technique that will have your images looking awesome in seconds every time you use it. I am even going to share the Photoshop Action with you so you can edit in lazy mode, I mean efficiency mode! Before I bare all, I need to give you some background information, and I am pretty sure you have been in the exact same position at some point in your photography hobby or career.

DPS Tutorial Image 9

Not long ago, early 2010, I was horrible at photo editing. I was literally tossing my camera in a box and packing it away. My problem was that I was extremely frustrated with the quality of my images. Not necessarily the composition or the subject matter, but I couldn’t get my images to look “good” like all the photographers who were crushing views on Flickr. Thank goodness 500px was not around at the time, I really would have hated my photos.

Just before I sealed the tape on my box of photo gear I discovered High Dynamic Range imaging. Wait, before you judge me, I have been doing it long enough to know the process is not everyone’s cup of tea. However, the HDR process, from the brackets to the tone mapping, forced me to embrace new techniques I never would have dreamed of prior to stumbling upon it.

I started to understand my camera on a level that was foreign to me prior to that time. I also began to accept that it was not necessarily the camera making the great photos, but the person behind it and, more importantly, their post-processing techniques. Nonetheless, I became a tone mapping fool. I tone mapped everything, my car (for the record a Scion xD does not necessarily need to be HDR’ed), candid pictures of my wife, food, candid pictures of my wife eating food, I really tone mapped everything.

You have probably been there before as well, anyone new to HDR thinks it is the greatest thing on everything from the urban landscape to the selfie in the mirror. I would really shy away from the latter of the two! Through all of this understanding and acceptance came another realization, the HDR process can wreak havoc on the contrast in a good photo.

Through the HDR process you are mapping tones from multiple images to obtain one photograph that gets the best of both worlds with a vast amount of detail. The problem with this is that shadow areas lose their depth when too much detail is revealed, and areas that were specular highlights, or inviting highlight blowouts, tend to compress in ways that make them look dark, dingy and stale. Let’s not forget about the hideous over-saturation that can occur if you take the sliders too far.

So how do you combat this? How do you analyze a photograph, HDR or not, and tell what it needs to make it better?

It’s all about contrast

The answer, while simple, holds complexities that can take years to train your eye through trial and error. We are not about to let it take you years to understand. The secret is contrast which is the key to making better photographs right now.

You may know that the Contrast slider exists in nearly every post-processing program, but what is contrast? Simply stated, contrast is the ratio between light and dark in a photograph. If there is no contrast the image appears to look predominantly gray and dismal. On the flip side, an image can be too “contrasty” or devoid of gray (mid tones), a battle between white and black. It is difficult to see this on a color photograph since contrast typically deals with tone.

I studied Fine Art in college, I was a Printmaker (Woodcut, Etching, Screen Printing, and Lithography). I had a fabulous professor. She told me a piece of information once that changed my art forever during a one-on-one critique.

She said if I ever had a question about how harmonious my color print was that I should take a picture of it and convert it to gray scale. If it did not have strong black and white points with a smooth grayscale gradation somewhere in between, then it needed work.

Like any normal college kid, I did not understand her methodology at the time and I rarely took her advice. It was not until nearly ten years later that her advice finally clicked.

The Contrast Checker Technique

You can use this technique in every aspect of your workflow: beginning, middle, and end. It keeps your contrast in check throughout the process. Rightfully so, it is named “Contrast Checker”.

The photograph below is a tone mapped photo of Kansas City, straight from Photomatix Pro. You should always try to tone map your images so that they are not too dark, too light, too saturated, or too stylized.

DPS Tutorial Image 1

Let’s Check the Contrast you can download the image and follow along if you would like (there is also an Action and a video at the end if you learn better from video)

Step one

Create a new Gradient Map Adjustment Layer to create a Black and White photo.

Step two

Ensure that the Gradient Map is set to Black and White. By default the Gradient Map Adjustment Layer will pull from the colors that you have set as your foreground and background in the tool bar. To ensure they are set to Black and White press the “d” key to reset them to the defaults.

Step three

Make a new Curves Adjustment Layer above the Gradient Map. Your Layers Palette should look like this and your photo should be Black and White.

DPS Tutorial Image 2

Step four

While in the Properties of the Curves Adjustment Layer press and hold “Alt” (Option on Mac) and click the Black triangle on the bottom of the Curve.

Step five

Your photo may turn all white with a little bit of black. This is telling you where black is present in your photo. If your photo is all white with no black specks then your photo currently contains no black point. Move it slightly to the right until more black starts to appear.

DPS Tutorial Image 3

Step six

This is called clipping (no detail). By clipping the blacks you are telling Photoshop what you want black to be in the photo. It is important that you do not take this too far, you want a solid black point in the photo, but you don’t want to destroy your shadows either.

Step seven

Now press and hold “Alt” (Option on Mac) and select the White Triangle.

Step eight

Your photo should turn all black with little specks of white. This is telling you where pure white is in your photo. If your photo is all black with no white specks then your photo currently contains no white point. Move it slightly to the left until more white starts to appear.

DPS Tutorial Image 4

Step nine

Just like the blacks it is important that you do not take this too far to the left as you will be clipping too much of the whites. You are going for just a bit of clipping beyond the specular highlights.

Step ten

The reason you are doing this on a grayscale photograph is to ensure that you are only seeing the clippings of the lights and darks. If you were to do the same thing on a color photograph you would see the clippings for all of the colors within their channels. This makes the process a bit more difficult.

Step eleven

At this point you should already be seeing more drama in your photograph, but you can take it a step further.

Step twelve

Click on the Targeted Adjustment Tool within the Properties of the Curves Adjustment Layer. This allows you to target specific areas of the photo and edit them independently on the tone curve.

DPS Tutorial Image 5

Step thirteen

With the targeted adjustment tool selected, as you hover over the image you will see what is being effected on the tone curve. For this image I started with the lighter colored grass. I clicked on it and dragged the cursor up making it even lighter.

DPS Tutorial Image 6

Step fourteen

I also selected the darker colored grass and moved the cursor down to make it darker.

DPS Tutorial Image 7

Step fifteen

I then selected an area in the sky that was close to white, but contained a little bit of detail, and dragged the cursor up to make it brighter.

DPS Tutorial Image 8

Step sixteen

At this point you should be looking at a black and white photograph with much more contrast than you started with.

Step seventeen

The magic happens when you delete the Gradient Map layer to reveal the Curves effect on the original color photograph.

DPS Tutorial Image 9

Step eighteen

If you are not satisfied with the effect the Curve has on the colors in the photo you may change the Blending Option to Luminosity which will only allow it to effect the tones in the image, protecting the color saturation.

For more tips and tricks and to see how the downloadable action for this process works watch the video tutorial below.

The post How to use the Contrast Checker Technique to Give Your Images More Punch by Blake Rudis appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Sucker Punch 3D – Official Trailer (Zack Snyder) [HD]

17 Mar

A young girl is institutionalized by her wicked stepfather. Retreating to an alternative reality as a coping strategy, she envisions a plan which will help her escape from the facility.
Video Rating: 4 / 5