The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge Go Wide! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
Your photography challenge this week is to take the widest lens you have (hey, if that’s a 50mm, so be it!) and make a photograph with it! Many things can work well with a wider lens, landscapes, cityscapes.. Really I guess you can photograph anything with a wide lens, some things just look better really wide.
Use the Hashtag #dPSGoWide and #dPSPhotoChallenge if you post to social media
This is 14mm on a Canon EOS 5D Mk3 at LVMS!
Some great examples of ‘Wide Angles’ here to give you inspiration for your photograph!
15 Expansive Wide Angle Photographs
17 Amazing Wide Angle Images
Wide, Wider, Widest!
This is 16mm on a Canon EOS 5D Mk2 in Williamstown
Make sure you tag us on social if that’s where you choose to post your entry for the weekly challenge.
As ever, some help with sharing your photo into the comments section below (don’t click on this photo to uploadyourphoto, scroll down to the Disqus section, log in, THEN click on the little camera icon in the comments)
Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.
The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge Go Wide! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
The post 26 Types of Photography to Explore (for Inspiration) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
There are dozens of types of photography, covering a wide range of subjects and themes. Some genres focus on people, others center around the natural environment, others emphasize human-made landscapes, and still others consider cultural objects such as food and products.
Thinking about branching out into a different photographic genre or simply on a hunt for inspiration? Here’s a list of 26 photography types to get your creative juices flowing!
1. Abstract photography
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.2 | 1/200s | ISO 100
Abstract photography is about expressing a visual image through association, isolation, and recontextualization. Also known as experimental photography, abstract photography isn’t bound by standard photographic conventions (although a sound knowledge of composition and technique can help improve your abstract photos!).
By prioritizing abstraction over the figurative or representational renderings of subject matter, an abstract photographer crafts an image that audiences can explore through intuition and impression. And with a focus on aspects such as light, distance, detail, color, texture, line, camera movement, and focus, abstract photographers experiment with ideas about what actually makes an effective image.
2. Aerial photography
Also known as airborne photography, aerial photography involves making photographs while a camera (either held by a photographer or mounted on special equipment) is airborne. Vehicles for aerial photography can include kites, aircraft, parachutes, rockets, and even pigeons (a technique invented in 1907).
The first aerial photos were made by French photographer Gaspard-Félix Tournachon, who took pictures over Paris in a balloon in 1858. However, the resulting photographs are lost to time, and the earliest surviving aerial photograph, made by James Wallace Black and Samuel Archer King, depicts Boston from a balloon in 1860.
Nowadays, drones are a popular tool for aerial photography. And as drones become more efficient, user-friendly, and economical, many photographers are taking the opportunity to capture unique perspectives from the air.
3. Animal photography
From whales to cats to gerbils, animal photography encompasses both domesticated pets and wildlife. Animal photographers strive to convey the spirit of their subject, and preventing harm to animals is paramount.
Because of the varied behavior and size of animals, animal photography can involve a wide range of gear. Lenses include telephotos, wide-angles, zooms, and primes. Equipment such as hides and camera traps, as well as camouflage and Ghillie suits, are sometimes used to photograph wildlife.
For pet photography, standard zoom lenses are a common choice, although prime lenses or a wide zoom such as a 16-35mm are good alternatives.
4. Architectural photography
Architectural photography is the photography of buildings and similar structures. Architectural photographers prioritize a balance between realism, technical accuracy, and pleasing aesthetics. The first permanent photograph (titled View from the Window at Le Gras by Nicéphore Niépce) doubled as the first architectural photograph. From there, early photographers like Henry Fox Talbot made numerous images with architectural subjects.
Attention to compositional tenets like leading lines, perspective, symmetry, and framing are key methods applied in crafting an architectural photograph. Sometimes, aerial photography is combined with architectural photography to present the viewer with a fresh perspective on an architectural subject.
5. Astrophotography
Humans have been looking at the night sky for millennia, and the jump between the first successful photograph of an astronomical object (the Moon in 1840 by John William Draper) to present-day astrophotography is amazing.
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/5.6 | 1/1600s | ISO 500
Depending on the subject and your desired outcome, there are tools designed to make the process of photographing the heavens easier. For broad night sky photography, a wide-angle lens with a wide aperture and a quality mirrorless or DSLR camera with an interchangeable lens configuration and manual capabilities is ideal (and a full-frame camera will likely perform better in low-light conditions). A remote shutter release or intervalometer will minimize camera shake.
If you plan to photograph fixed renderings of the night sky (as opposed to star trails), a tracker mechanism is highly recommended. A sturdy tripod is a crucial piece of equipment, and a flashlight for light-painting the surrounding environment to create context can be a useful creative tool.
Light pollution indicator apps like LPM (above) are available for Android and iOS devices.
Apps that track weather and light pollution or indicate the darkest times of the month can be handy for determining a shoot date in advance.
In terms of photographing the moon, a telephoto lens mounted to a full-frame camera can work well. Again, a mirrorless or DSLR with an interchangeable lens system and manual capabilities is recommended, along with a remote or shutter release cable and a sturdy tripod. Here’s a useful guide for choosing the right settings to capture beautiful lunar astrophotography.
6. Conceptual photography
While the phrase“conceptual photography” derives from the late 1960s Conceptual Art movement, the term has been used retrospectively to describe a genre or approach to photography that prioritizes the illustration of a concept.
Hippolyte Bayard’s Self Portrait as a Drowned Man (1840) was one of the earliest conceptually based photographs. Bayard, apparently provoked by French authorities failing to recognize his discovery of the photographic process as equal to Daguerre’s daguerreotype, faked a self-portrait depicting his own “dead” body with a summary of his demise written on the back of the photograph.
Conceptual photography thrives on the transmission of ideas. Often surreal or hyper-real in their approach, photographers like John Hilliard, Cindy Sherman, and Chema Madoz are well-known figures in the conceptual field. The diversity and scope of conceptual photography has expanded even further with the availability of photo-editing software.
7. Documentary photography
While sometimes confused with one another, documentary photography and photojournalism are two different fields. Documentary photography relates to long-form projects with a discernible storyline threading throughout a series. Photojournalism, on the other hand, focuses more on breaking news stories.
From the poor Depression-era farming communities documented by Dorothea Lange to Diane Arbus’s haunting portraits of marginalized figures, documentary photography shines a light on often underrepresented facets of life. Through their work, a documentary photographer can enhance awareness of a subject or theme and stimulate an emotional response.
8. Event photography
Put simply, an event photographer specializes in photographing events. Whether focused on a corporate occasion, a birthday, a wedding, or a funeral, event photography is as broad as the many occasions that warrant a photographer on site to capture the moment.
As with all types of photography, preparation is the key to a successful event shoot. Events can be held indoors, outdoors, or both, so lighting conditions can be complex and changeable. Packing a good low-light camera body and lens with a wide maximum aperture is useful for situations where flash might not be appropriate. And creating a shot checklist that is agreed upon by both photographer and client is a good way to establish and capture the images a client is after.
That said, depending on the event, you’ll want to keep an eye out for candid moments and little details; that way, you can create a more intimate collection of event images for the client. Also, don’t forget to stock up on memory cards and batteries.
9. Film photography
Nowadays, digital technology is the dominant medium for image making. Nevertheless, there are still many photographers who use film to create beautiful imagery.
Film photography can slow down the photographic process, encouraging a more mindful creative approach. A limited amount of film frames can also encourage photographers to shoot more conscientiously, and the use of manual settings can test and refresh technical knowledge.
The aesthetic value of film photography is both nostalgic and dimensional, with quirky cameras like the the Diana or Holga range also enabling spontaneous photography that intersects with the whimsy of cheap toy film cameras.
10. Food photography
There are distinct artistic and technical skills that come with every photographic genre, and food photography is no different. Under the camera lens, food can become a tasty still life artwork rather than your average meal.
The first known photograph of food as a subject was a daguerreotype taken in 1845 by Henry Fox Talbot. His photograph depicted a pineapple and some peaches contained in two baskets set atop a plaid tablecloth. Originally, foods were often photographed in an arrangement similar to the way people were accustomed to encountering a meal – the food was laid out on a table and photographed from overhead (mimicking the point of view of the consumer).
Today, meticulous lighting, selective focus, motion, extreme close-ups, overhead or flat lay perspectives, narrow-angle shots, and a shallow depth of field are just some of the carefully applied techniques designed to create a scene that appeals to a viewer’s taste buds. The introduction of contextual props, shooting in or staging a relevant space (like a café or restaurant), and focusing on compositional tenets like line, texture, and color can also help craft an inviting food-related image.
11. Intentional Camera Movement photography
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 4s | ISO 400
Intentional Camera Movement (or ICM) is one of the more experimental types of photography. Put simply, ICM involves selecting a slower shutter speed and moving the camera and/or zooming during the exposure. The process creates impressionistic renderings of a scene that are marked by the physicality of the photographer.
Getting started with ICM photography is pretty simple. You’ll need a camera with semi-automatic or manual modes and a good camera strap. Secure the camera strap and set the shutter speed to around 1/15s. Press the shutter and physically move the camera around and/or adjust the lens focal length.
When the exposure finishes, check the LCD screen (if possible), take note of the results, and move on to the next frame, making adjustments to camera settings if necessary. The ICM process is experimental and endlessly varied, so trying many different combinations of gesture, camera settings, and subject matter is all part of the fun.
12. Landscape photography
Typically, landscape photographers capture natural (or sometimes semi-natural) vistas. Often showing little to no human activity, landscape photography focuses on strongly defined landforms usually illuminated with ambient light. Some of the most beautiful landscape photographs are motivated by a photographer’s appreciation of natural beauty and the need to see it preserved. Renowned landscape photographer Ansel Adams received both a Conservation Service Award and a Presidential Medal of Freedom in recognition of the influence his work had on the preservation of wilderness and the cultivation of environmental consciousness.
Prior planning goes a long way in photography, and landscape photography is no different. Scouting possible locations before shooting (if only through Google Maps) and calculating light and weather conditions with apps are important steps in the landscape photography process.
In terms of equipment, there are many different approaches to landscape photography. Some photographers pack a wide-angle lens, while others rely on a zoom or prime lens configuration. Regardless of which way you go in terms of lenses, a polarizing filter, a sturdy tripod, and a shutter release cable or intervalometer are major assets. A weatherproof camera setup can come in handy, too.
13. Macro photography
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2 | 1/500s | ISO 100
In the early 1900s, F. Percy Smith started photographing small natural subjects with the use of extension tubes and bellows. The increased distance between the negative and the lens culminated in enlarged renderings of subject matter. Nowadays, macro photography involves the use of specialized equipment to obtain close-up images of small subjects that are hard to discern with the naked eye.
With a wealth of lenses, filters, and extension tube configurations to choose from, macro photography provides a fascinating insight into the vivid details that make up our surroundings. Insects, plant life, small animals, snowflakes, raindrops, and spiderwebs are just a few popular macro photography subjects.
14. Minimalist photography
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/5 | 1/200s | ISO 100
Minimalist photography is distinguished by its pared-back simplicity, focusing on the smallest amount of objective content possible. Arising from the minimalist art movement of the 1950s, minimalist photography revels in restrained or reductive techniques, appealing to the viewer through simplicity and the shedding of superfluous information.
Minimalist photographers often operate under the assumption that less is more, directing a viewer’s attention to subject matter with efficiency and a judicious use of space. Well-known proponents of minimalist photography include Michael Kenna, Hiroshi Sugimoto, and Uta Barth.
15. Nature photography
Nature photography, as you might imagine, encompasses many types of photography genres. In general terms, nature photography describes photography undertaken outdoors in the hopes of depicting plants, wildlife, and/or natural landscapes. Macro photography is often included under the nature photography heading.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/80s | ISO 250
Trees, landscapes, beaches, insects, stone formations, wildlife…There are hundreds of nature photography subjects, and the selection of equipment for a nature shoot comes down to subject behavior and the desired outcome of an image.
For example, much of landscape photography is done with wide-angle lenses, but a telephoto lens can be critical for capturing wildlife. A macro lens (or a set of extension tubes) is handy for the close-up photography of plants and insects, while a tripod or monopod will be useful for bracing the camera and keeping things steady when a slower shutter speed is required. A camera body that performs well in low-light conditions and features weatherproofing is also ideal. And if you decide to pack all of the above options for one trip, investing in a good backpack is advisable.
There are some environmental concerns involving nature photography. The destruction of a landscape can be caused by the incautious efforts of photographers prioritizing a photograph over the natural environment. Wildlife photography encompasses photographing animals in their natural habitats, but interrupting, staging, or causing harm in an attempt to make a photograph is unethical, with many photo competitions rejecting submissions that negatively impact the well-being of wild fauna. In short, a leave no trace approach is encouraged.
16. Night photography
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/25s | ISO 200
Night photographers specialize in making images when the sun goes down. From the eerily atmospheric street photos of Jessie Tarbox Beals (the first woman night photographer) to the meticulously staged photography of Gregory Crewdson, night photography is dense, beautiful, and sometimes unsettling.
Photographers working at night can use artificial lighting, ambient lighting, or a combination of the two. Astrophotography is conducted at night and uses longer exposures to capture celestial bodies. Light-trail photography captures illuminated subject movement with a slow shutter speed. Cityscapes photographed at night have a distinctly modern appeal, and nocturnal street photography used in conjunction with flash generates an intimate aesthetic.
17. Photojournalism
Photojournalism is the gathering, editing, and presenting of photographic news material. Sometimes conducted in the face of danger, photojournalism has a long history, with many of its proponents advancing the overall course of photography with dedication, creativity, and daring.
According to the code of ethics created by the National Press Photographers Association (NPPA), “It is the individual responsibility of every photojournalist at all times to strive for pictures that report truthfully, honestly, and objectively.” The staging or manipulation of a scene through the direction of the photographer is considered un-photojournalistic or unethical. With the evolving use of modern post-processing techniques, the idea of truthful photojournalism has become an increasingly complicated facet of reportage. In general, a minimal approach to editing is advised, and sticking to simple edits (cropping, contrast adjustments, etc.) is a relatively common photojournalistic guideline.
18. Portrait photography
Portraiture or portrait photography aims to capture the essence of a person or group through photography. The art of portraiture grew with the daguerreotype in the mid-19th century. Reduced sitting times and the relatively low cost of the photographic process saw a general rise in the popularity of early portraiture. Subjects were often positioned against plain backgrounds and illuminated with soft natural lighting. As technology advanced, exposure times shortened further, and the ability to make portraits outside the studio became increasingly common.
Today, there are a range of techniques and approaches to portraiture. The traditional portrait involves a subject (usually in a studio setting), often looking towards the camera. The environmental portrait features a subject situated in a specific environment for context and narrative. A street portrait depicts a subject in a street setting. Conceptual portraiture is shot with an emphasis on ideas based around the sitter, while the self portrait involves a photographer taking a photograph of themselves.
19. Sports photography
Sports photography is a type of photography that covers sporting events. Sometimes considered a branch of photojournalism, sports photographers capture the unfolding drama of a sporting occasion.
Long lenses and camera bodies with high continuous shooting speeds allow for greater reach across the playing field and an increased chance of capturing the perfect shot. However, regular zooms, wide-angle lenses, and prime lenses may also be used during closer encounters, and a sports photographer can have several camera configurations at the ready.
Other important sports photography equipment includes a monopod or tripod. The use of drones and strategically placed cameras triggered by wireless shutter actuators are useful for certain sports activities. And although you never know how a game is going to play out for certain, a good general knowledge of the sporting event always helps to close in on those key moments.
20. Still life photography
Still life is the art of taking photographs of (usually) inanimate subjects. With roots in painting, genres like food photography, object portraiture, flat lay photography, and tabletop photography often coexist under the still life banner. However, there are two main types of still life photography: found still life and created still life.
Found still life photographs feature subjects captured without a photographer’s influence or manipulation. An example of a found still life subject could be an apple fallen from a tree. In contrast, created still life photographs feature objects that the photographer has purposely arranged or manipulated; artificial subjects like vessels (pots, vases, baskets) are often balanced with organic subject matter like flowers, food, vegetables, shells, etc. Well-known masters of still life photography include Olive Cotton, Jan Groover, Sharon Core, and Josef Sudek.
21. Street photography
Street photographers candidly capture life in the public domain, avoiding direct interactions with the subject. And unlike the name suggests, street photography can be done off the beaten track, too – beaches, indoor settings, and rural areas hold just as much potential for street photographers as big cities and crowded streets.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/500s | ISO 500
As for gear, street photographers generally use a smaller camera that’s less visible and therefore less intrusive or intimidating; such cameras are also lighter to carry around during the hours spent roaming the streets.
In addition, a camera may come with a soft or silent shutter mode for surreptitious exposures. Although the versatility of a zoom lens can be useful in some circumstances, the classic prime lens is more subtle, lessening the chance of interference. The nifty fifty or 50mm lens is a popular choice for street photographers.
22. Travel photography
Shaped by magazines like National Geographic, travel photography depicts a broad variety of subject matter. According to the Photographic Society of America, a travel photograph is a photograph “that expresses the feeling of a time and place, portrays a land, its people, or a culture in its natural state, and has no geographical limitations.”
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/200s | ISO 100
As the accessibility of travel increases, the genre of travel photography has been taken up by photographers at all levels. Dedicated travel photographers once earned wages through magazine assignments, commercial undertakings, and stock photography. Nowadays, professional travel photographers also turn to blogging, teaching, touring, and public speaking to generate income.
23. Typological photography
Typological photography is not defined by a particular area of subject matter, but rather by the process and presentation of a photographic series. Typology in itself is the study of types or the systematic classification of subjects according to their common characteristics. Therefore, typological photography aims to document subjects that are similar in nature or theme, creating a visual body of work to compare, contrast, and appreciate as a whole.
A photographic typology of road sealant.
Hilla and Bernd Becher, who made extensive photographic studies of industrial buildings and structures, forged a highly influential style of typological photography. As artists working in collaboration, the married pair recorded and then categorized the formal qualities of their subjects into a neat grid layout. They also maintained a consistent approach in photographing their subjects, relying on a foundation of uniformity to articulate the similarities and differences of each subject alone and as part of a whole. Today, much of modern typological photography revolves around this visual cohesion.
24. Underwater photography
The world below the water’s surface can be as fascinating as it is alien. Underwater photography is the use of specialized photography equipment to document the expanse of an aquatic landscape and its inhabitants (hopefully without drowning your camera equipment in the process!).
The first underwater photograph was believed to have been made by Englishman William Thompson in 1856. Thompson built a metal box housing for a camera to capture the marine landscape of Weymouth Bay in Dorset, England. The shutter was activated by pulling a string on the surface. Much later, in 1960, Jacques Cousteau’s Calypso was invented – the first amphibious 35mm film camera. Today, waterproof housings with control knobs and buttons are industry standard, with some including connectors for external flash units. Rugged compact cameras can also be used in shallow water without housings.
25. Urbex Photography
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/80s | ISO 100
Urbexing (short for urban exploring) is the exploration of human-made structures usually found in a state of abandonment or ruin. Popular urbexing sites include abandoned houses, neglected industrial sites and offices, and dilapidated schools or churches. Many urbex explorers abide by the philosophy “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints.”
Incorporating photography into an urbexing expedition, many urbexers maintain websites or a social media presence to document their findings.
26. Weather photography
Although weather photography can encompass any kind of meteorological phenomenon, the term has become synonymous with photographing lightning, storms, sunsets, and other dramatic weather events.
Photographers have braved the elements to photograph weather phenomena for over a hundred years. In 1884, a photographer from Kanas named A.A. Adams captured a single image of a cyclone twisting just 14 miles away from where he’d set up his box camera. Today, basic weather photography gear usually encompasses a lightning or remote camera trigger, a sturdy tripod, and a camera with manual and/or Bulb settings. Like landscape photography, wide-angle lenses are useful for capturing large vistas of scenery and weather activity. ND filters and an intervalometer are nice to have, too.
Monitoring meteorological activity and finding locations well before a shoot is a good idea. When dynamic weather activity unfolds, scrambling for a last-minute scenic spot is less than ideal. Above all else, safety and common sense are paramount – shoot storms from a distance, keep up to date with weather notifications and warnings, stay away from metal poles, trees, and open areas, have good weatherproof clothing, and invest in rain protection for your camera.
Types of photography: final words
There are so many different photographic genres that it’s difficult to cover them all in a single article. Nevertheless, a solid knowledge of different types of photography opens the door to new photographic opportunities.
If you’re tiring of landscape photography, why not take up astrophotography? Do you have experience in sports photography? Why not branch out into pet photography? The possibilities are endless, and with a good knowledge of photographic genres, new opportunities are always available!
Now over to you:
Do you have a favorite photographic genre? Do you plan to take up any of the genres discussed in this article?Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post 26 Types of Photography to Explore (for Inspiration) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
The post 11 Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners (How to Get Started) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.
So you’ve decided to take up photography – but how do you begin? How do you deal with gear, camera settings, and Photoshop? More importantly, how do you start getting beautiful pictures, fast?
In this article, I aim to share plenty of advice for photography beginners, including:
How to buy the right gear
Tips for improving your skills ASAP
How to choose the right camera settings
Where to start with post-processing
Are you ready to jumpstart your photography hobby? Let’s dive right in!
1. Research gear (but don’t go overboard)
Your gear does not make you a good photographer.
In fact, if you are just starting out, a top of the line camera will not only be a waste of money, but it will also make your learning process trickier. A bit like buying a race car to learn to drive.
When you want to buy gear – whether it’s your first camera/lens/accessory or your tenth – do your research. It’s helpful to take a look at some photography forums or articles for camera recommendations. Once you find something that sounds viable and fits your budget, read professional and user reviews to determine whether it’ll satisfy your needs.
2. Take lots of photographs
“Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson
As with any skill, the more you practice, the better you get. So the quickest way to get better? Simply head out with a camera and start taking pictures.
Of course, knowledge does matter, but there’s something essential about holding a camera in your hands, looking through the viewfinder, and considering different compositions. Aim to spend at least a few hours every week behind the lens (and more is better!). It doesn’t necessarily matter what you shoot – as long as you’re shooting, you’re improving.
And don’t beat yourself up if your shots don’t turn out the way you’ve envisioned. Part of photography is about failing repeatedly; over time, you’ll learn how to get the result you want, and you’ll come home with more and more keepers.
3. Read the manual
Camera manuals are quite possibly the most boring thing you have ever read in your life, and reading the camera manual is certainly the most boring thing you’ll ever do in pursuit of photographic improvement.
That said, I suggest you do it anyway.
Camera manuals are not exactly a riveting read.
Why? It’s important to know how your camera actually works, especially in the beginning. And the information will become useful down the line, too. You’ll be out in the field and you’ll want to know how to change a particular setting; if you’ve read the manual thoroughly, you’ll be able to figure it out on the fly. On the other hand, if you haven’t read the manual, you’ll be forced to look up instructions on your phone, and by then your photo opportunity will likely have disappeared.
Of course, you don’t need to read the manual all at once. I recommend you place it where you can push through in small installments while you are killing time, such as the bathroom, the car, or at work during your lunch break.
4. Don’t start with workshops
So you’ve got the photography bug. You might be thinking, “Ooh! I’ll sign up to a bunch of workshops; that way, I can improve really fast.”
And workshops are great. But they tend to be geared more toward enthusiasts – photographers who understand the basics and are looking to level up their skills in composition, lighting, and advanced techniques. That’s why I don’t recommend going nuts with workshops right away. Instead, you should really start with the basics:
How to operate your camera
The meaning of different photography terminology
How to determine the proper settings for the situation
Fortunately, you’ve already taken a step in the right direction, because you are currently reading one of the most useful photography sites on the internet. There are more tips and tutorials on this site than you will ever need, especially for a beginner. Once you get the hang of things, then you’ll have a better idea of the type of workshops that would suit you, and you might consider that route.
So I’m not saying that you shouldn’t do a workshop – just that you should wait until you know what suits your needs.
5. Connect with other photographers
Learning photography with others is often invaluable – whether you sign up to an online group or you join a local camera club.
For one, your photography will progress faster, plus it will be far more fun with the help of your fellow shutterbugs.
Connecting with other photographers is a great way to learn and get inspired.
Camera clubs often have monthly competitions and may organize photo tours, exhibitions, and other activities. Talking with knowledgeable photographers or even fellow beginners will not only inspire you, but also keep you motivated.
Also, sign up to some reputable photography newsletters and Facebook pages, or even reach out to photographers you admire. Most professional photographers don’t mind answering a few questions, as long as you are respectful, polite, and don’t demand too much of their time.
6. Try everything
This piece of advice is short and sweet.
While you may have taken up photography with a certain genre or subject in mind, it can be helpful to try all genres. You never know what you might have a knack for, or what you will learn along the way.
So shoot landscapes. Shoot portraits. Head out to the streets and do some urban photography. Find a beautiful flower and photograph close ups.
You never know; you might find a genre that you absolutely love and hadn’t ever considered.
7. Get feedback
Your friends and family may love you, but they will lie to you about your photography (and they may not even know what to look for). Unless you have a very honest friend or family member who actually knows a bit about art, it’s often more beneficial to get feedback from strangers.
Signing up to a photo sharing site where others can comment on your work will get you mostly honest feedback (sometimes brutally so). Years back, I posted the image below on a feedback site. I knew the image had faults, but I was keen to hear what someone else could point out and how they could help me improve.
Well, one fellow submitted a lengthy comment, basically pulling the image apart. He pointed out what seemed like several million faults, and he really went to town on it. But while the comments were painful and borderline unkind, it was useful advice that I could then apply to my next portrait photo shoot.
8. Enter free competitions
If you have money to spend and confidence in your work, by all means, enter some of the big competitions – even as a beginner. You wouldn’t be the first to take a major prize within the first few months of picking up a camera.
Even if you don’t want to spend money to enter competitions, there are plenty of free options. Throw in some images, see how the contest goes, and hey – maybe you’ll win!
9. Aim to get off Auto mode
If you really want to be a good photographer, this is vital.
Because while Auto mode is useful enough when you’re just getting started, it’ll eventually hold you back, and it’ll certainly prevent you from realizing your full potential.
You don’t need to rush, though. At first, just enjoy photographing, even if that means using Auto mode all the time.
Then slowly move up the ladder as you familiarize yourself with Program mode, Aperture Priority mode, and eventually Manual mode.
In truth, manual settings aren’t nearly as difficult as some beginners think. It can be a bit like learning to drive. In the beginning, it’ll be challenging to manage gears, indicators, and steering, all while trying not to veer off the road. But with a bit of patience and practice, it’ll become second nature.
(When you are ready to try manual settings, there are plenty of beginner guides and cheat sheets here on dPS!)
10. Get a post-processing program
To become a serious photographer, you’ll eventually need an editing program.
Why? Because these days, editing is an essential part of the photographic process. If you want your photos to look their best, then you must learn to edit.
These days, your “darkroom” can sit with you in bed (alongside some extras!)
Which post-processing program is best?
Well, there are free programs such as Darktable and GIMP, which are nice but have their limitations. Then there are the big guns like Photoshop and Lightroom, which can be daunting for beginners. Personally, I recommend just forging ahead with Lightroom; if you intend to eventually get serious with your photography, it’s a hugely useful tool to understand, plus it’s not as difficult as it might initially seem.
Alternatively, you might consider an option such as ON1 Photo RAW or Luminar 4, both of which are slightly more beginner friendly than Lightroom yet pack a lot of power.
11. Have fun
This is the best and most important part of photography:
The enjoyment of it!
Don’t get bogged down by unsuccessful attempts or by comparing yourself to professionals. Even the best photographers in the world were beginners at some point. Just keep taking photographs, keep learning, keep challenging yourself, and above all, keep enjoying the fun you can have with photography!
Photography tips for beginners: final words
Hopefully, you’re now feeling inspired – and you’re ready to continue the learning process.
Photography is an adventure, and it’s a fun one, too. Sure, there will be ups and downs, but in the end, you’ll be glad you persevered!
The post 11 Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners (How to Get Started) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.
The post 8 Common Landscape Photography Mistakes (+ How to Fix Them) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barry J Brady.
Landscape photography is a ton of fun – but even the best landscape shooters make mistakes, which is what this article is all about.
Specifically, I’m going to share the eight mistakes I see all the time, especially in beginner photos. And I’m also going to explain how those mistakes can be fixed, so that the next time you’re out shooting, you know exactly what to do (and what to avoid).
Make sense? Let’s dive right in, starting with the most common landscape photography mistake of all:
1. A lack of stability
In landscape photography, you usually want your images to be sharp all the way through, from front to back. To achieve this effect, you must use a narrow aperture, which in turn will reduce your shutter speed and make your images very prone to blur.
Hence, many landscape photographers return home after shooting, only to find their photos plagued by consistent blurriness.
There’s a simple way to deal with this problem, however: Use a tripod! This is especially important if you’re shooting in low light, but in all honesty, I recommend you take your tripod with you everywhere.
Now, there are tripods and there are tripods. For landscape photography, you might want to invest in a more heavy-duty option; while small, lightweight tripods might do the trick for a while, if you are shooting in the wind, you risk tripod shake (plus, your tripod might get blown over). A good tripod will also last a long time and can take a beating, so buy the best tripod you can afford and keep your camera as still as possible when shooting.
Another good piece of equipment to buy is a remote release. You don’t need one of the expensive ones with a built-in intervalometer; just a simple remote shutter is fine. Once you are set up and ready to take your shot, step back from the camera and press the shutter button. There will be no vibration from you hitting the camera shutter button, and your image will be nice and sharp.
(If you don’t want to purchase a remote release, you could use the self-timer, instead.)
2. Not getting the horizon straight
Many a good landscape image has been ruined by a skewed horizon. And while this can be fixed in Photoshop or Lightroom, you might lose some details along the way – which is why I highly recommend you deal with the horizon in camera, not in post-processing.
You can use a few different tools to make sure your horizon is straight. You might try switching on the grid in your camera viewfinder, then always taking the time to line up the horizon with a horizontal gridline. Some tripod heads even have a built-in spirit level, so ensure this is level and your horizon should be fine.
Alternatively, you can purchase a level that mounts to your camera hot shoe. Just connect the level, then do a quick check before taking your photo.
A crooked horizon is distracting.
The image looks better now that the horizon is straight.
3. Shooting only in landscape format
Landscape photography is, well, landscape photography – so photographers assume they should shoot in landscape (horizontal) format.
And generally speaking, this is a good idea. The horizontal orientation emphasizes the sweep of a scene, and it can lend a sense of vastness to the shot.
Except, in some cases, a portrait orientation (vertical) can work well, too – sometimes better than a horizontal orientation. Think of a forest scene. The trees stretch into the sky, so a horizontal format will limit their height rather than show it off, and create a less interesting photo in the process.
Bottom line: If the subject’s shape is more vertical than horizontal, you should try it in the portrait format, as it may give the composition a dynamic presence. And if you’re not sure whether to shoot vertical or horizontal, just do both and sort out the issues later!
Shoot in portrait format, too!
4. Forgetting about the aperture
Aperture is a camera setting – but it’s also a composition tool. And many landscape photographers forget this.
You see, aperture helps determine your depth of field (i.e., the amount of the scene that appears sharp). And by carefully considering the depth of field, you can create different compositional effects.
The moment you start setting up a composition, you should be thinking about your depth of field. Ask yourself: Do I want everything from the foreground to the background to be in focus? Generally, in landscape photography, this will be the case, but if you’d prefer to keep certain areas soft, you should decide early on.
If you do want foreground-to-background sharpness, make sure your aperture is f/8, f/11, or higher. If you shoot at f/2.8 or f/4 and you focus on the foreground, the background will be out of focus, and the middle of your scene will be soft. And once you’ve taken a shallow depth of field photo, it cannot be fixed in Photoshop.
In a landscape image, you will likely want everything in focus.
5. Shooting using the camera’s “landscape” mode
Yes, you may have a landscape setting in the scene modes of your camera. But try to use it as infrequently as possible.
Why? Well, it’s not great at producing an even exposure, plus it can’t determine the proper aperture for a given scene (only you can do that!).
So instead of using your Landscape mode, try switching over to Aperture Priority mode or even Manual mode. Both these options will let you dial in your aperture and ISO, and they’ll also let you tweak the shutter speed for the best results.
At first, this may take some getting used to. You won’t be able to rely on a familiar point-and-shoot mentality. But over time, you’ll become more and more familiar with your camera settings, and you’ll end up with better results than your camera’s automatic Landscape mode could ever achieve.
6. Standing next to other photographers
If you see a group of photographers standing on the top of a hill, here’s my advice:
Shoot from somewhere else.
I don’t mean to imply that the other photographers are taking bad shots. Rather, I’d like to emphasize the importance of originality. Do you want to go home with a shot just like everyone else’s? Or do you want a shot that’s uniquely yours?
Of course, in certain situations, the best composition or vantage point is at one particular spot, and all the photographers will congregate in that area. That’s fine; take a shot from there to start. But then look for other places to get a great shot, too.
(Pro tip: It’s a good idea to scout a scene before you shoot it. Go and take a walk around the area the day before, look at where the sun will be setting, and decide on your position. Don’t simply follow the crowd.)
A different composition of Machu Picchu.
7. Including unnecessary negative space
Negative space is the “empty” area that surrounds your subject, and the inclusion – and exclusion – of negative space can truly make or break your image.
Careful use of negative space can lend your photos a sense of calm and tranquility. But poor use of negative space, as is common in landscape photography, will create static, boring photos.
In most landscape scenes, the sky is the negative space, especially on a clear, sunny day. And you’ll often see beginner landscape photographers include lots of sky in the composition, even though it doesn’t actually add anything interesting to the shot.
So before you include large swathes of sky in your compositions, carefully observe the horizon. Are there elements of interest, such as clouds? Or is there a simple, blank blue?
If the answer is “blank blue,” then make the sky a small portion of your image (of course, if there are some great-looking clouds, then by all means, give it more space in your scene).
This goes for other types of negative space, too. Are you photographing an ocean scene? Make sure not to include too much water, unless it adds atmosphere to the photo. Are you photographing a valley? Make sure not to include lots of empty grass. Got it?
The sky had no clouds, so I made it a small part of the image.
8. Not including a clear subject
It sounds crazy, but it is very easy to have an unclear subject in landscape photography. For instance, if you photograph a forest but just show some random tree chaos, the viewer won’t know where to look – because there’s no clear subject. And if you’re photographing an ocean but you just point your camera at the water and shoot, you’ll end up with some boring water and sky, not a coherent, striking photo.
Instead, identify what matters to you in a scene – and then emphasize it in your shot.
Of course, you don’t need to fill the frame with your subject; it’s perfectly acceptable to show both your subject and the beauty that surrounds it. But if you’re struggling to highlight the subject, do try moving closer or using a longer lens. And check your composition afterward, asking yourself: What stands out? What will the viewer notice? And what do I want the viewer to notice?
If what the viewer will notice and what you want the viewer to notice differ, then you’ve probably made a mistake.
The iceberg in front of the ship is the clear subject.
Landscape photography mistakes: final words
Well, there you have it:
The eight landscape photography mistakes to avoid the next time you’re out shooting.
When you’re in the field with your camera, run through these mistakes. Make any corrections, then check the photo. I’m guessing you’ll end up with a much improved result!
Now over to you:
Which of these landscape photography mistakes do you make? Do you have any additional mistakes that deserve to be on this list? Share your thoughts inthe comments below!
The post 8 Common Landscape Photography Mistakes (+ How to Fix Them) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barry J Brady.
The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge : Books appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
A source of learning and inspiration, books are a part of all (ok, most?) of our lives, some of them even have pages! (yes, that was a side-eyed shot at people who only use e-readers haha) I personally love a great photography book, but I digress… This week your challenge is to make an interesting photograph with a book! I’ve share a few examples below (They’re from Unsplash, this week with home-school here in Melbourne, I’ve had little time to pick up the camera, sadly!)
You can set a scene with a book, use it’s pages to guide your viewer into your photograph, it can be all about the book, as though the book is for sale and you have to make the photo of it that makes people want to buy it – you can come at your photograph from any angle (in every sense) and I really look forward to seeing your different perspectives this week!
Make sure you tag your photographs with #dPSBooks and #dPSWeeklyChallenge if you share them on Instagram, Twitter or Facebook, so that we can spot them and share them.
Aaron Burden from Unsplash
Jonas Jacobsson from Unsplash
Alex Lvrs from Unsplash
Ergita Sela from Unsplash
Four different styles for you to consider, many more options though – it could be a self portrait, a background to a ring (that you may have seen once or a million times in sets of wedding photos)
Make sure you tag us on social if that’s where you choose to post your entry for the weekly challenge.
As ever, some help with sharing your photo into the comments section below (don’t click on this photo to uploadyourphoto, scroll down to the Disqus section, log in, THEN click on the little camera icon in the comments)
Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.
The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge : Books appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
The post 13 Child Photography Ideas to Get Your Creative Juices Flowing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.
Children are some of the most rewarding subjects you’ll ever photograph. They bring a sense of fun, excitement, and wide-eyed wonder to a photo session – but photographing children can also feel overwhelming and even a bit chaotic, especially if you’ve never done this type of work for clients before.
These 13 child photography ideas will give you lots to think about before your next session, and can hopefully serve as a starting point for you to think about your own style and techniques, too.
Doing child photo sessions can be difficult, but imagine what it’s like for the kids. They’re in a strange location with parents fussing over their clothes, while other people are making faces and telling them to smile. It’s positively overwhelming!
One thing you can do to give the children a sense of calm and peace? Encourage them to bring a prop. Let their parents know beforehand, so they can help the child pick out something special and meaningful.
Stuffed animals, a favorite toy, or even just a photo or some artwork from home can go a long way toward making a photo session fun. These help children feel at ease, and while you can of course bring your own props, they just don’t have the same sentimental value as a prop that means a lot to the child. Years down the line, these props will help add a sense of context to the photos you took, plus parents will enjoy looking back at their children with their favorite toys or dolls long after the actual props have been relegated to a box in the attic.
Kids see the world differently than adults. They find joy in little things, wear emotions on their sleeves, and march to the beat of their own drums. I have seen many photographers throw up their hands in frustration when working with children because the kids won’t listen to directions. I can certainly relate, especially since I have children of my own! It’s enough to make you want to give up on family photography and work with, say, inanimate objects.
But in these situations, the best advice I have is to just embrace the randomness that kids bring to a photo shoot. Let them be who they are, even if it’s a little goofy, eccentric, or out of the ordinary. Be ready to capture some photos with your camera on its high-speed continuous mode, and don’t be afraid to get your hands or clothes dirty in the process. (I’ve long since learned to wear comfortable pants and sandals to family photo sessions, and to put them in the laundry as soon as I get home!)
The best-laid plans of mice, men, and photographers often go awry, but these fun moments are when you can get some of the most memorable pictures from a photo session.
3. Show their personalities
Nikon D750 | 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | f/2.8 | 1/500s | ISO 400
Every kid is unique, and they express themselves in many different ways. One thing you can do to make your photos stand out is to encourage the kids to let their sense of individuality shine through. While the results might not be your own personal favorites, parents love images that capture a sense of who their kids really are.
So whether the child is making a silly face, doing an odd pose, or even picking their nose, moments that capture genuine personality often end up making for the most memorable photos.
By the way, personality-focused photos are a great way to build rapport with children. Kids often come to a photo shoot with a healthy dose of trepidation and skepticism, especially if they have been bossed around by other photographers at previous picture sessions. But if you let them show their personalities, they will usually loosen up and trust you a bit more, which helps when it comes time for more formal pictures, such as group shots or headshots.
Authenticity is a special thing. As photographers, we often aim for specific results, and while the resulting shots might be great on a technical level, these formal images can be bereft of substance and emotion. I always try to find a way of capturing special moments, especially between parents and kids, even if the resulting images don’t follow the traditional rules of photography.
Things like holding hands, a warm embrace, a special look, or a shared laugh help peel back the shiny veneer of perfection we often strive for, and instead let us capture something real. You can’t fake these moments; you have to be prepared with your camera so you can capture them if and when they happen.
In the photo above, I captured a grandmother holding her new baby granddaughter, and even though the child is sleeping and most of the adult’s face is not visible, the image tells a story that goes well beyond “Look over here and smile.” In the end, this was one of my clients’ favorite images from the entire session.
5. Go for a walk
Nikon D750 | 85mm f/1.8G | f/4 | 1/400s | ISO 180
Do you shoot photos on location? Heading out for a walk is a great way to embrace your surroundings while also capturing some really interesting shots that parents and kids will appreciate for years to come. Have your clients take a short walk and document the excursion with your camera. Take shots from the front, from behind, and even from above (if you can find a high vantage point to shoot from).
One of my favorite types of walking shots involves parents holding hands with their kids. This conveys a sense of care and tenderness while also ensuring your subjects are all on the same focal plane. A zoom lens isn’t required, but it certainly is useful, as you’ll spend less time chasing after people and more time taking pictures. Make sure your camera is on its high-speed continuous shooting mode, since you might need 20 or 30 shots to get one that you really like.
And if the children aren’t old enough to walk on their own, just ask the parents to carry them (or give them a ride on their shoulders) for some equally memorable images.
6. Run for it!
Nikon D750 | 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | f/4 | 1/350s | ISO 500
This is a tried-and-true technique for getting some outstanding images, and it’s a great way to impress your clients with photos they certainly can’t capture on their own.
Use a zoom lens (preferably a 70-200mm f/2.8 or f/4) and a high-speed continuous shooting mode. I also recommend Auto ISO with a minimum shutter speed of 1/500s. Back-button focus helps, but most modern cameras have such good autofocus that you can usually just rely on that.
Then stand far back from the kids and tell them to run toward you on the count of one…two…three…GO!
Start with your lens zoomed in as far as it will go, then slowly decrease the focal length as the kids run toward you. You only have 5 to 10 seconds to shoot before the children rush past, but that’s usually enough for some great shots. Your number one goal here is to get as many pictures as possible and sort them out later.
Most of your shots won’t be too noteworthy, but some will be amazing and one or two will likely end up printed, framed, and hung on a wall. I recommend briefly reviewing your photos as the kids are catching their breath, and if you’re not certain that you got some good shots, just tell the kids to repeat the exercise.
7. Let the kids play around
Nikon D750 | 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 160
This one isn’t always easy to pull off, but if you can catch kids while they are playing, laughing, or joking around, it’s like striking photographic gold. Some photographers choose locations that are more conducive to this type of freeform play, but unless you have your own private playground, it’s not always the simplest thing to do.
Instead, I try to laugh and joke with the kids by telling them a funny story or asking them to do something silly, which often leads them down their own creative rabbit hole.
For the photo above, I told the boy to whisper a joke in his sister’s ear, which made both of them giggle. Then I stepped back and started taking pictures while she told her brother a joke. They went back and forth like that for a while, taking my initial idea and running with it way beyond what I expected.
The kids had a great time just messing around, and I was able to get some photos that their parents absolutely loved.
8. Take photos from above
Nikon D750 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/4 | 1/125s | ISO 400
Want to take unique shots that will make your clients call you for repeat photo sessions? Bring a ladder along with your camera gear.
Then stand up high – make sure to be safe! – and get some shots of the kids from above. These can be slice-of-life images with the children playing or reading, but I also like to have them look up at me and smile while I take their picture.
One nice thing about overhead photos is that you don’t need any fancy camera gear (such as wide-aperture lenses). Background blur isn’t an issue since the kids are so close to the ground or floor, and the kids usually aren’t moving around too much, either.
This means you can get outstanding images with a basic camera and kit lens. The uniqueness of these shots comes from the camera angle, which is something a lot of people don’t really think about. It’ll make the resulting shots memorable and unique, which your clients will greatly appreciate.
The key to a good group-hug photo is timing. It’s not difficult to have all the kids get together – just tell them to pile on or around the largest child, then start taking photos! The tricky part is knowing when to do it.
If you shoot a group-hug picture early in a photo session, you won’t get the kind of genuine emotions you might otherwise capture. If you get the group hug picture too late, the kids and their parents will be tired and may not be in the mood. However, if you can snag a group hug at just the right time, the results are amazing.
That’s why I like to do group hugs about halfway through a photo session. It’s nice to get to know the families first, do some individual shots, and get photos of the kids with their parents. Then, after about 15 or 20 minutes, everyone is more comfortable – and your clients, especially the younger ones, start to lose a bit of steam. That’s a great time to get some shots of all the kids together!
Doing a group hug injects some much-needed energy into a photo session, helps the kids and their parents relax for a bit, and sets the stage for a successful second half.
Every kid has a favorite book. Whether it’s a picture book, a novel, or even a coloring book, these treasures work wonders for your photography. It’s easy to get kids to smile and laugh when you ask them to read their favorite story, and you’ll get the opportunity to capture photos of them lost in their imagination as they turn the pages.
One of the biggest benefits of photographing children with books comes years later and is not readily apparent during the photo session. You see, when parents look at the photos after time has passed, seeing their kids reading their favorite books always brings back a rush of emotions.
11. Bring a four-legged friend
Nikon D750 | 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100
There’s one surefire way to add a lot of excitement and emotion to a children’s photo shoot: let them bring a pet. When you involve a cat, dog, lizard, or other animal friend in a photo session, you will get plenty of big smiles, genuine emotions, and great shots.
Pets put children at ease and give them something to focus on besides you and their parents, plus these pictures often make for great memories years down the road. However, photographing with pets carries some important risks, so you need to make sure you are prepared.
Pets, even friendly ones, can get nervous and start acting up during a photo session. I have never been bitten by a dog or other animal while shooting, but I have had them nip at me and my camera gear.
Animals can also be moody and uncooperative, which stresses out the parents – and even the children – at times. Generally, what I recommend is involving pets in a small portion of a photo session but not the whole thing.
Have a family member or trusted friend bring the pet in for a few minutes. Shoot some pictures, but then have them take the pet back home. That way, you get the benefit of shooting photos with pets without any of the hassles, and you and your clients can be happy with the results.
There’s a temptation among photographers to try always try something new, break the mold, and chart their own course through the uncertain waters of child photography. And while that’s often a good thing, there is a time for everything under the sun, and this certainly applies to photography.
In other words: when you’re taking photos of children, it’s great to try new, creative, and innovative ideas – but it’s also good to include some of the staples of the genre, such as the classic headshot.
These photos aren’t complicated, but they are often overlooked by new photographers who are eager to try new things. In truth, you can’t go wrong with a traditional headshot, and many of your clients will expect these types of images along with the other, more creative photos you are able to capture.
To get good headshots, use a wide aperture between f/2.8 and f/1.8, make sure your subjects are evenly lit, ask them to look at you and smile, and start pressing the shutter button. If your subject’s attention keeps wandering, have a parent or sibling stand directly behind you (and if your camera has it, use eye-detect autofocus).
The resulting pictures won’t win awards for creativity, but they will look great when printed, framed, and hung on the wall (which is where many of your clients will end up putting them!).
13. Use an initialed prop
Nikon D750 | 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | f/3.3 | 1/250s | ISO 400
Remember how I suggested you use a child’s prop? For a fun twist on this idea, ask your clients to bring something with the first letter of their child’s name on it. The object doesn’t have to be fancy, and you might even consider getting your own array of objects as a backup, just in case your client doesn’t have anything that works. The point is to add a bit of personal flair to your child photos – to give them a little extra pizzazz that they might otherwise lack.
This approach works best with very young children, generally no more than 18 months old. If you go much beyond that, it starts to look a bit cheesy and forced, though it can still work with the right prop (say, a t-shirt or jersey that prominently displays a first initial).
My favorite technique is to use simple wooden alphabet blocks. You don’t need to spell out the child’s entire name; just adding their first initial goes a long way toward making a standout photo. It also sends a message to the parents that you care enough to go the extra mile, and this helps lead to repeat business and referrals.
Child photography ideas: final words
My most important rule when taking pictures of children is to make sure they have fun. If the kids are angry, bored, or irritated, it will certainly come through in the photos – and the same goes for you. (After all, a surly photographer is not going to get great shots!)
These 13 child photography ideas should give you plenty to think about as you approach your next session, but at the end of the day, make sure the experience is enjoyable. Relax, take a breath, lighten up, and have a good time. A positive attitude is one of the best things you can bring to any photo event, especially when children are involved.
What about you? What are some of your favorite child photography tips and tricks? Leave your thoughts in the comments below!
The post 13 Child Photography Ideas to Get Your Creative Juices Flowing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.
The post Perspective in Photography: 4 Vantage Points for Unique Compositions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Katie McEnaney.
As photographers, we often fall into the bad habit of shooting everything we see from eye level.
We walk around, something catches our attention, and we take a picture – right from where we are standing, without bending down, moving to the side, getting up high, etc.
(Sound familiar?)
But if you want to create stunning, eye-catching, original compositions, you need to get out of your eye-level (or tripod-level) rut. You need a change in perspective.
And that’s what this article is all about. I’m going to give you several easy tips for working with perspective in photography. By the time you’re done, you’ll be ready to bend, climb, move, and contort like a pro.
Let’s get started.
1. Get low
The easiest way to change your perspective for dramatic impact?
Get down low.
I use this all the time in my own photos, and it’s a favorite trick of many professional shooters. A low angle presents the world from a completely different point of view, one where the viewer feels small and the rest of the world looms large:
So get your camera down toward ground level, and see how it impacts your perspective. Don’t be afraid to lie flat in the grass, soil, or mud; you might get dirty, but it’ll be worth it!
Also, quick tip: Getting down low allows you to emphasize the foreground of your composition. You can use a wide-angle lens to feature foreground elements, which will then pull the viewer right into the image. Take another look at the shot above; do you see how the leaves act as a foreground anchor, guiding the viewer into the image and toward the background tree?
A low perspective can also change the way your viewer feels about or reacts to your subject. Getting low can make your subject appear taller or more imposing. Subjects viewed from below can look commanding and powerful. Even a simple sunflower can seem to tower above its surroundings:
Plus, a low angle can completely disorient your viewer. This near water-level shot (below) becomes a study in color and texture, as the water and the fallen autumn leaves interact with each other. From eye level, this would simply have been a photograph looking down into a storm gutter. But getting low simplified the composition, providing the viewer with a startlingly unique perspective.
2. Get up high (and shoot downward)
Shooting from up high does the opposite of getting down low. Instead of making the viewer feel small and the subject loom large, a high perspective makes the viewer feel huge and the subject look tiny:
Notice how the high vantage point gives the photo a sort of “giant looking down into a toy world” perspective? Photographers love to use this angle when shooting objects that are actually very large (e.g., mountains, icebergs, trees). It creates an interesting juxtaposition between what the viewer believes about the subject (i.e., that it’s huge) and what the viewer actually sees (i.e., it’s tiny).
Getting up high is also a great way to emphasize geometry – the lines, circles, squares, and dots that make up the scene. So if your subject is very graphic, with lots of obvious lines and curves, try a high vantage point; it’ll likely work well.
Unfortunately, a high perspective comes with a major issue:
Getting above a subject is not an easy task. It often requires a lot of creativity, and there are times when it just won’t work. Here are a few methods of getting up high (but be mindful of the appropriateness of each method given the situation):
Climb stairs
Climb on a roof
Shoot from a window
Shoot from atop a parking garage
Use a drone
Hold your camera as high as possible
Obviously, some high perspectives are easier to manage than others. If you want to shoot from above a building, you’ll probably need a parking garage or a drone – but if you want to shoot a flower from above, you simply need to stand tall and point your camera downward.
Make sense?
3. Shoot upward
This perspective is similar to getting low, as discussed above – except rather than shooting directly at your subject from the ground, you shoot up. It’ll emphasize the height of your subject and can often evoke a sense of wonder and awe:
The classic “up high” subject is trees, but you can shoot upward at plenty of subjects, including:
Birds
Planes
Architecture
Clouds
Flowers
Power lines
Note that some of these suggested subjects aren’t actually tall; instead, you just have to creatively work your angles by getting down on the ground and pointing your camera upward.
Pro tip: If you plan to shoot a lot of photos from below, bring a camera with a tilting screen. Constantly shooting upward can really hurt your neck – so a tilting LCD will prevent a lot of pain.
4. Go for the lateral
Low angles and high vantage points can be awestriking, but don’t forget to think laterally, too.
In other words: Before hitting the shutter button, walk a few steps to the right and left. It may not seem like a big deal, but a few feet can make a huge difference to the final photo. For one, you’ll get a different view of your subject. You’ll also get a different foreground and a different background, both of which can make or break a composition.
Personally, the first view and the first angle I try is often not the best available. It takes a bit of work – moving right and left, trying out different foregrounds and backgrounds – before I get the shot I want. Sometimes, it even pays to walk completely around the subject (and you can take a few test shots along the way). That’s what I did for this shot of the Chicago skyline:
I also positioned the spray from the fountain directly in front of a building to make it more visible. You see, in addition to changing the foreground and background, moving your feet can change the way different objects in your photograph interact with each other.
Take a look at the two shots below. While the top photograph looks nice, moving just a few feet to the right and squatting down allowed me to feature the foreground lights with the actual Capitol building in the background. This juxtaposition of elements improved the storytelling ability of the photograph:
Photography perspective: final words
Hopefully, you now feel equipped to revolutionize your compositions (just by moving your camera and your feet!).
Do not fall into the trap of shooting everything you see at eye level. Instead, take the time to explore your subject and consider changing your perspective. Get low and see what changes, get up high and explore a new view, or move laterally and watch different interactions occur and disappear between objects.
Now over to you:
What is your favorite photographic perspective? Do you have any tips for great results? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post Perspective in Photography: 4 Vantage Points for Unique Compositions appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Katie McEnaney.
The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge : Blue Hour appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
Our weekly photography challenge this week is ‘Blue Hour’ if you’re unfamiliar with the term, here’s a great what & how from Nisha – 3 Practical Tips to Improve your Blue Hour Photography.
Make sure you catch up with all of our previous challenges – you can find them here.
Photo – Nisha Ramroop
“Also known as twilight, Blue Hour refers to that time of the day just before or after the Golden Hour. Depending on your location, it may be shorter (or longer) than an hour but happens before sunrise or after sunset”
Photo – Nisha Ramroop
As ever, some help with sharing your photo into the comments section below (don’t click on this photo to uploadyourphoto, scroll down to the Disqus section, log in, THEN click on the little camera icon in the comments)
Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.
The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge : Blue Hour appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
The post 12 Steps to Successfully Promote Your Photography on Instagram appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Robin Ryan.
Instagram is an excellent way to attract attention, gain followers, engage with likeminded folks, and even improve your photography, but it’s all easier said than done, right? Plenty of photographers post on Instagram and get nothing out of it – no followers, likes, or even views.
So how do you use Instagram the right way? How can you promote your photography on instagram and come away with likes, followers, and comments galore, not to mention a great community?
In this article, I’m going to share my personal secrets for Instagram success. Specifically, I’ll offer techniques to get better exposure for your photography, build a community, and grow as a photographer through Instagram. I assure you, I know what I’m talking about; my personal Instagram account has 15,000 followers (and counting). So you know this advice works.
Let’s get started.
1. Only show your best work
What’s the difference between a good artist and a great artist?
Great artists only show their best work. While nobody is expecting you to rival National Geographic photographers right away, you should pay close attention to what you’re sharing. It only takes one bad photo for people to lose interest in your photography.
In short, if a photo doesn’t make you say “Oh, yeah!” when you see it, don’t post it.
Also, don’t post too often. Unless you have a really good reason for spamming your follower’s feeds, don’t do it. I recommend sharing one or two images a week – it’ll keep people interested without getting annoying. So post the great stuff, and leave out the bad, the mediocre, and even the good.
2. Find your niche
This is key to defining your brand and to your growth as a photographer. It’s about determining what makes you different from everyone else and about using that difference to create something unique and interesting.
The amazing thing about Instagram is that it’s composed of people across the world, each of whom have a different interest. I’ve seen fantastic accounts focused on street food in Vietnam, rock climbing in Utah, and architecture in Turkey.
But despite these differences, the best accounts all have one thing in common: a focus around a central theme. And it’s this theme that captures their audience’s attention (and keeps it).
Exploring the ancient #forests of Vancouver island, @kaitross and I found that even these giants succumb to time and the winds.
Don’t forget: the only person who should define your niche is you. Do you love paper maché and dinosaurs? Then become the best photographer making seaside portraits of paper maché Velociraptors.
I love to travel and explore nature, so my account reflects that and only that. You won’t find photos of my food or my family. If you want to share snapshots from your daily life, get a private account for your friends and your family to follow, because they’re the only ones who (might) want to see that stuff.
3. Use a dedicated camera, not just your smartphone
Your shiny new smartphone may take gorgeous snapshots, but constantly relying on a smartphone is like trying to perform a piano recital on a kid’s electronic keyboard.
Yes, smartphone cameras have come a long way in recent years, and yes, there are plenty of outstanding smartphone photographers out there. But unless you’re an experienced photographer with a lot of compositional and lighting knowledge, I highly recommend getting a “real” camera, such as a DSLR or mirrorless model.
Why? For one, it’ll force you to learn key photographic skills, such as exposure, depth of field manipulation, and proper handholding technique. Plus, it’ll give you additional focal lengths to play with, so you can shoot birds in the distance, sweeping landscapes, stunning close-up shots, and more.
4. Take the editing process seriously
Instagram may lend itself to a snap-and-post style of photography, but producing excellent photographs doesn’t work that way. Great photographs aren’t taken – they’re created.
This means shooting in RAW, then working in your favorite image editing program (I recommend Adobe Lightroom). Learn how to manipulate light, shadow, and clarity until your final product is something you can be proud of. The Instagram app just isn’t built for this level of sophistication, so ditch all those cheesy filters and effects and do your work on the computer.
5. Share a story with your photo
Great photography leaves an impression. So do well-written stories. But when you combine strong images with powerful words, you’ll evoke an emotional response in your viewer and help them connect with your work.
It wasn’t until I realized this and started sharing the story behind my photos that my account started getting real interaction – people writing about how the image or words affected them and their own experiences.
Nobody expects the next Hemingway to come out of Instagram, but some carefully chosen words in a thought-provoking caption will do wonders for connecting you to your fans.
After the frenzied atmosphere of Shanghai’s urban jungle, the fresh air of Huangshan’s Yellow Mountains was exhilarating. Still in the low season, March snow clung to the boughs of trees while distant clouds made it feel like the horizon could go forever. One of China’s better-developed tourist attractions, Huangshan has a long history: first recognized in 747 AD, it was said to be the place from which the Yellow Emperor ascended to heaven. This year, over 1.5 million visitors (mostly Chinese) will wander its paths. I caught it on a quiet day, and these peaceful memories linger with me still.
6. Ask questions in your captions
What’s the difference between a story and a question?
A story builds an emotional connection between the viewer and the image; a question builds a personal connection between your viewer and you.
So tell stories, but ask questions, too. Your questions should be open ended and create a space for your fans to contribute some of their own stories to the community. Remember that many Instagram users are new to digital photography and are looking for people to connect with. By asking questions, you can encourage them to engage with the community (you might even make friends along the way!).
7. Use hashtags effectively
I never understood the value of effective hashtagging until I started weaving them into my posts. You should be hashtagging important nouns and verbs – stuff people will be searching for.
And get specific, too. The difference between #fishing and #instagood is huge for obvious reasons: people who might be interested in your photo are much more likely to be searching for their favorite hobby than some meaningless, catch-all term. So don’t add a bunch of generic hashtags that say nothing about your work. Instead, use descriptive hashtags that target certain users.
Speaking of hashtagging, do a bit of digging to find effective hashtags you might be missing. It wasn’t until I came across the hashtag #explorebc that I began connecting with a ton of great local photographers who eventually featured my work on their account (resulting in a huge boost of exposure for my photos!).
8. Post in the morning
The morning is when most Instagram users check their feed, so keep this in mind and set your posting schedule accordingly. I live on the West Coast of North America, so if I post at 8 AM, I’m already late for my East Coast followers. Aim to get your posts out early in the day for the time zone you’re targeting (of course, if your followers are worldwide, this is less useful).
Is there a best day of the week to post? Studies show that Sundays have the greatest number of interactions, which makes sense given that many users spend Sunday relaxing at home. Otherwise, stick to weekday mornings.
9. Build a community
Build a community by actively finding photographers you respect and developing relationships with them. I won’t lie – this is a long process, but it’s necessary and worthwhile.
It’s also pretty simple: Just find a hashtag that speaks to you and your work, then check it whenever you can to see who’s posting. When you find photography you like, leave a thoughtful compliment and follow the user. Chances are, if they like what you’re posting, they’ll check out your account and reciprocate.
Whatever you do, when commenting, don’t ask people to check out your account or follow you back. It’s tacky and makes you look desperate. Instead, be thoughtful, complimentary, and ask for nothing in return.
10. Cultivate champions
A champion is someone who genuinely engages with your work. They comment frequently, and their comments are thoughtful – not just “Nice” or “Love it,” but lengthier, meaningful content explaining what they like about the posted image.
Champions are great for both your community and your popularity, but how do you get them? What makes champions comment on your photos?
Here’s the best way to draw in champions:
Foster relationships with other users.
Of course, this is easier said than done. But if users are leaving you thoughtful comments, return the favor and respond with something more meaningful than “Thanks!” If someone cares enough about your work to awkwardly type out praise on their smartphone, they’re worth their weight in followers. These are the people who are going to follow along through your adventures and refer their friends and followers. Do enough relationship building, and these delightful unicorns will be out there promoting your work for you.
11. Bring others into the conversation
Bring others into the conversation by photographing with them or referencing them in your posts. Two amazing women from Vancouver kicked off @localwanderer several years ago, in which they document their travels around North America and feature the hidden gems in communities.
Where the @localwanderer creators really excel (in addition to their photography and writing) is in their ability to constantly bring local shops, restaurants, and people into the discussion. By doing this, @localwanderer introduces its community to someone new, who in turn will introduce their community to @localwanderer.
So think about who or what you can reference on your account. If you’re a nature photographer, you might try tagging local parks; if you’re an architectural photographer, you might try tagging the owners of local buildings/businesses. The specifics will depend on the photography you do, but as long as you’re creative and you persevere, you’re bound to make some valuable connections.
12. Don’t confuse followers with community
I’d rather have 100 fans who interact with my work than 1,000 followers who never like and comment. Your goal shouldn’t be about quantity of followers – instead, it should be about the quality of your community.
Speaking of numbers, don’t be afraid to clean up (and block) followers, especially those who are clearly inactive or fake. The last thing you need is a bunch of zombie accounts clogging up your Instagram. Also, one danger of having many inactive followers is that your account is less likely to be recommended to other users of Instagram.
How to promote your photography on Instagram: final words
There you have it: 12 tips for success on Instagram. As long as you follow these tips, your account will grow and your engagement will skyrocket.
Now over to you:
What are your tips for promoting photography on Instagram? Do you have any success (or failure) stories you’d like to share? Let’s hear them in the comments section below!
The post 12 Steps to Successfully Promote Your Photography on Instagram appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Robin Ryan.
The post 11 Tips for Stunning Candid Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
Candid photography is a great way to capture intimate, honest photos – the type of images that tell real stories about their subjects.
But how can you capture beautiful candid photos? How can you create candid shots that you can be proud of?
In this article, I share 11 tips to take your candid photos to the next level. Note that these tips are not about taking sneaky, voyeuristic, or true paparazzi shots. Instead, they’ll help you add an authentic, candid feel to photos you take of loved ones, portrait subjects, images at events, and more.
Let’s get started.
1. Take your camera everywhere
The best way to take spontaneous photos? Always have a camera! That way, when the moment presents itself, you can quickly flick the On button, snag a few shots, and (if all goes well!) get a great result.
When I’m on a shoot, I’ll use my DSLR – but when I’m between shoots, I carry a point-and-shoot camera. If I see a good opportunity, I’ll whip it out and capture the scene. Of course, you don’t need to head out and buy an expensive second body – these days, smartphone cameras are very high quality and more than adequate for most candid photography.
Also, taking a camera everywhere helps people become more comfortable with you taking their photo. I find that my friends and family just expect me to have my camera out, so when I do fire it up, it’s not a signal to pose, it’s just a normal part of our interaction. And when I do take an image or two, the subjects are relaxed and the photos look natural.
2. Use a long focal length
To capture candid photography without being noticed, try shooting with a long lens – a 135mm prime, an 18-200mm zoom, or a 70-200mm zoom, for instance. As you’ve probably already guessed, the farther you are from your subject, the less likely they are to know that you’re taking pictures, and the more natural and relaxed they’ll act.
Depending on the environment, though, a long lens can be pretty noticeable, and it may actually make people feel uncomfortable (like they’re being spied on). So choose your lens widely, and if you are concerned about people’s reactions, consider picking your most compact zoom.
That way, you can get your candid shots from outside people’s personal space, you can go unnoticed, and you can maintain a feeling of intimacy in your compositions.
3. Kill the flash
Perhaps the most obvious way you can signal to another person that you’re photographing them? Using a flash (especially the flash on the top of your camera!). After all, there’s nothing like a blinding flash of light to get people’s attention and kill a moment.
So if possible, keep your flash off for candid shots. When you’re shooting in low light, instead of using flash, try boosting your ISO, opening up your aperture, or dropping your shutter speed.
You’ll get a brighter exposure, and you’ll avoid making your subject uncomfortable.
4. Take a lot of shots
Back in the film days, it was important to conserve your photos. But if you use a digital camera (and I’m guessing you do!), there’s no real need to hold back; instead, be aggressive with your shooting. Don’t be afraid to take many images of the same subject.
In fact, I’ve found that, when shooting a burst of images of a person, I can sometimes get some surprising and spontaneous shots that I’d never have captured otherwise.
So switch your camera to its continuous shooting mode (i.e., burst mode), and fire off several shots at once. You’ll significantly increase your chances of capturing an unexpectedly perfect candid image.
5. Position yourself strategically
While candid photography is all about capturing the spontaneity of a moment and getting a perfect shot during that split second of time, if you think ahead and anticipate what is about to unfold, you can increase your chances of success.
So at a wedding, get to the church early (or even go to the rehearsal) and think about what will happen during the ceremony. Where should you stand to capture each moment? Which way will people be facing? What will they be doing? What will the light be like?
If you ask these questions in advance, you won’t waste time running around and repositioning yourself when the action happens. And you’ll be in the perfect spot to capture candid moments when they do occur.
6. Photograph people doing things
Personally, I find that images of people doing things are much more interesting than images of people sitting around doing nothing. And they tend to feature more natural compositions, too.
For one, your subject will be focused on something that adds energy to a photo. It also adds context and an element of story (and these elements takes their focus off you!).
Timing is everything in candid photography, so wait until your subject is fully focused on their activity. This will inject a feeling of authenticity into your shots, where your subject is unaware and the viewer can look on unseen.
Note that your subject doesn’t need to be doing something especially involved or complex – they might be dancing, talking, playing a game, etc.
7. Photograph people with people
When you photograph more than one person at a time, something very interesting happens:
You introduce a relationship into the photo. Even if the two (or more) people aren’t really interacting, you’ll still get increased depth and a sense of story.
Of course, the ideal candid compositions will have some interaction between your subjects, as that will add emotion to the shot – but even without interaction, you can still capture some stunning images.
8. Shoot from the hip
Here’s a quick tip for shooting unnoticed, courtesy of street photographers:
Choose a relatively wide lens, such as a 35mm.
Set your camera’s shutter to its quietest setting.
Position the camera down low, either at chest height or at your hip.
And then, when your subject moves into position, fire off a burst of shots without raising the camera to your eye.
This technique can be very hit or miss, and you may want to think about zone focusing (where you prefocus your lens and use a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field). But when it works, it really works – your subject remains completely unaware of your presence, they don’t tense up or act unnatural, and you get your candid images.
9. Change your perspective
Photos taken from standing height can look fine, and sure, there are plenty of great shots taken with the camera held in that eye-level area. But if you want to mix things up and capture some truly striking photos, why not change your perspective?
For instance, get down low and shoot upward, or find a nice vantage point and shoot downward. You can climb stairs, walk over bridges, crouch on the ground – whatever you need to do to get the photo (while staying unnoticed).
Also, if you do like the low-angle shot but you feel uncomfortable crouching while doing candid photography (it is somewhat attention-grabbing, after all), try shooting from the hip (as discussed in the previous tip). While your shots may turn out crooked, it’s an interesting effect that some photographers like and can lend a sense of randomness and realness to a scene.
10. Frame images with foreground elements
If you want to create more three-dimensional, layered compositions, I highly recommend composing with your subject as the focal point – but then including an element in the foreground, such as a tree, a person’s shoulder, the frame of a doorway, etc.
Feel free to get creative. The point is to add a foreground element that can contribute context and depth to the shot, but you can have fun widening your aperture for out-of-focus foreground bokeh.
The ultimate goal is to create that sense of standing outside looking in. It’s a great complement to a candid moment, and when done well, can add a sense of mystery to the composition.
11. Take posed shots into candid territory
It may sound strange, but one of my favorite times to shoot candid images is when other photographers are taking formal ones.
Why? Well, during posed images, everyone is focused on the directing photographer, not you. So if, for instance, a wedding photographer is shooting a series of posed images, you can capture some wonderful candid moments simply by standing off to the side and taking a few images of your own.
I’d also recommend zooming in with a telephoto lens to capture more intimate scenes, and you might also try zooming right out to get shots of the subject plus the photographer.
By the way, if you’re the only photographer at an event or photoshoot, and you’re the one taking the posed shots, I’d recommend continuing to shoot after everyone thinks you’ve finished. It’s often these shots – captured moments after the posed images end – that look the best, because people relax, smile naturally, laugh, and look at each other.
Candid photography tips: final words
Hopefully, you now feel much more confident as a candid photographer, and you’re ready to start taking some beautiful candid shots of your own!
So grab your camera, remember these tips, and have fun shooting.
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips for candid photography? How do you capture those beautiful candid moments while photographing unnoticed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post 11 Tips for Stunning Candid Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.
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