RSS
 

Posts Tagged ‘Photography’

7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results)

25 Sep

The post 7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.

fall portrait photography tips

Autumn provides photographers with an abundance of colors and amazing light, which is why autumn is one of the best seasons for portrait photography. It offers up magical, moody, and even nostalgic photos like this one:

girl on a log in the fall

But while fall portrait photography can look amazing, capturing the best shots isn’t always easy. Yes, fall backgrounds look awesome and fall light is breathtaking, but you shouldn’t just aim your camera and hope for the best.

In this article, I’ll share my top fall photography portrait tips. And by the time you’ve finished, you’ll be able to create stunning images like a pro.

Sound good? Let’s dive right in.

1. Prepare your equipment and check the weather

leaves changing color

Preparation is the key to any successful shoot – fall portrait sessions included.

Of course, ensuring your camera batteries are charged, your memory cards are clear, and your lenses are clean seems like a no-brainer, but it’s often the fundamentals that we overlook.

Pro tip: When clearing cards, double check that you have downloaded everything, then use the in-camera Format function to clear your images. Don’t delete photos via your computer – otherwise, you risk card-writing issues down the line.

Also, make sure you check the weather. In many parts of the world, the weather can change quickly, so it pays to stay informed. If you’re doing a paid session, you may have to schedule far in advance and you’ll simply have to make the best of a bad weather day – but if your fall portrait photoshoot is more informal, keeping an eye on the weather can make a big difference. At the very least, it’ll keep you from venturing out into the cold only to find that your session gets rained out within minutes.

By the way, if you and your subject/model are up for it, autumn portraits in the rain can look gorgeous. But you’ll need to protect your equipment (try a simple rain cover) and make sure you wear a jacket.

a misty autumn portrait

2. Get out when the light is best

Light can make or break a fall portrait, so this tip is critical. You can shoot autumn portraits on overcast days, especially if you’re after a moody, nostalgic look. However, I personally prefer the warm light of sunrise and sunset.

Now, dragging your family out of bed for a photoshoot is always going to be tough, so I recommend skipping the morning light; instead, aim to start your shoot about an hour before sunset. The low sunlight will be flattering, plus you might get a beautiful sunset to include in the background (or to use for fun autumn silhouettes).

By the way, make sure you look up sunset times for your local area before scheduling a shoot. You might be surprised to realize how early it gets dark, and you want at least a good hour of shooting before the sun goes down.

3. Choose the right clothing

Make sure everyone dresses appropriately. It’s getting colder, and if everyone stays warm – including both the model and the photographer! – you’ll have one less thing to worry about.

Also, it may seem lovely and warm outside, but believe me: it gets cold pretty quick when the sun starts to go down. And advise your subject to bring a change of clothing. It can be wet and muddy, and you certainly don’t want to end the session with an accidental tumble.

As for clothing colors and aesthetic: In the fall, getting this right can make a huge difference to your images. Ask your subject to wear natural tones that will either blend in or complement the colors of the leaves and trees. For the photo below, my son wore a dark red sweater, as we knew the area had very vivid reds in the trees:

boy wearing a purple-red sweater

My daughter wore black and white, which is a timeless combination that blends in well. Also, my son wore a gray hood that worked well with my daughter’s clothes.

If you do have multiple subjects, try and avoid clashing patterns or colors. Discuss clothing choices in advance, and consider coming up with a color scheme that everyone can follow.

Also, avoid t-shirts or sweatshirts that have dominant logos. These can be very distracting, plus they can date an image.

Again, ensure there is one (or more) changes of clothes available. This will not only provide variety in your images, but will also prepare you to deal with any accidents in the wet and possibly muddy conditions.

4. Choose your location wisely

In autumn, you want to find the best colors and textures available, which often means heading to a botanical garden or a beautiful forest. Pay attention to the foliage, and feel free to check out a foliage predictor map; certain areas, depending on their elevation and latitude, will turn before others, and the more fall color, the better.

Also, note that fall conditions can change really quickly. Leaves turn over a couple of days, and it often won’t happen until later than you think (which is where a fall foliage map comes in handy!). You also need to check that the leaves are still present (a heavy wind can take them down overnight, so if you find a good place to shoot, don’t dawdle!).

For my most recent shoot, I searched online for arboretums, which often feature collections of interesting trees like this one:

Japanese maple colors

One more quick tip: Use social media for location tags to see what other people have photographed over the last few days (at or near the same location). Instagram, Twitter, and even Trip Advisor work well. You may find a great location that you would never have considered otherwise.

5. Use the right aperture (and settings)

In fall portrait photography, your ISO should stay low to prevent noise, and your shutter speed should sit at 1/125s and above (I consider 1/60s to be my absolute minimum, assuming my lens or camera doesn’t include image stabilization).

But it’s your aperture that can really make a difference. I highly recommend you experiment with different apertures; that way, you can create beautiful blurred backgrounds, as well as backgrounds that emphasize the color and texture of the leaves.

To get a super blurry background, set your aperture to its widest option (i.e., the lowest number, such as f/4, f/2.8, f/1.8, etc.). For me, this is generally f/2.8, though with the kit lens that comes with your camera, you should be able to shoot at around f/5. Here’s the type of effect you can expect with a wide aperture:

girl with blurry background using an f/2.8 shutter speed

If you want greater definition in the leaves, try focusing on your subject but increasing the aperture to f/8:

girl fall portrait f/8 aperture

And if you want everything in focus, from the subject in the foreground to the leaves in the background, you can increase the aperture to f/16 or even f/22. Be careful when shooting at f/22, though; your shutter speed will be significantly lower so you’ll probably need to increase your ISO, plus you’ll get image softening due to diffraction.

girl autumn portrait f/22

I always shoot in RAW, as it allows me that extra flexibility when editing. With modern cameras, JPEGs are very versatile, but I still recommend you capture RAW files if possible (some cameras allow you to capture a RAW and JPEG at the same time, which is a good option if you’re attached to JPEGs).

As for your camera’s White Balance setting: You can always leave it on Auto, but I like to use Cloudy White Balance for fall portraits. It warms up the colors, and while you can always adjust later on if you shoot in RAW, it’s helpful to get an accurate preview of the final result.

6. Aim to capture emotions and natural smiles

The best portrait photos tend to look natural, which requires natural poses, but also natural expressions.

Now, when it comes to encouraging natural expressions, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. For adults, I generally recommend you get your subject comfortable in advance by talking with them, asking them about their life, etc. You can also try making them laugh, though this can be tough, or you can give them something to do (e.g., play the violin) and photograph them once they’re fully engaged.

For children, you can use props, you can tell jokes, or you can ask them to run toward you as fast as they can. You might also ask the parents for ideas, as they know their children best!

For the image below, I asked my children to laugh hysterically for no reason at all. This looked ridiculous, but as they calmed down, the smiles were more natural.

kids laughing hysterically during photo shoot

If you’re photographing more than one child, ask one to tell the other a secret. This will always get them giggling:

Posing Idea 2 Posing Idea 3

Another tip: If you’re photographing just one child, ask them to tell you about a subject they love. My son will talk for hours about anything Star Wars or Marvel. And I can ask my daughter her math questions for a range of reactions.

Basically, do anything to distract the kids or get a reaction – then be ready with your camera to capture the moment.

7. Enhance the colors in editing

The best autumn portraits – including my own! – go through some sort of editing process. Now, the editing program you use doesn’t really matter; Lightroom is great, as is Adobe Camera Raw, Capture One, Luminar AI, ON1 Photo RAW. Even free programs such as RawTherapee can fit the bill.

And you don’t need to be an expert editor to make your fall portraits shine. For the photos in this article, I actually kept the editing quite simple; aside from some little exposure and contrast tweaks, I went to the HSL panel in Adobe Camera Raw and saturated my Reds, Greens and Yellows. This really brought some extra punch to the images:

before and after editing fall portrait

Of course, editing is mostly about personal preference, so feel free to experiment like crazy. I do recommend you boost the colors a little bit, if possible; that way, you can emphasize those gorgeous fall hues.

Fall portrait photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

7 fun tips to enhance your autumn portraits. The next time you’re out shooting, try a tip or two – I guarantee you’ll see some great results!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you like best? Do you have any fall portrait photography tips of your own? Share them in the comments below!

Table of contents

Portrait Photography

  • GENERAL
    • 15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
    • 10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
    • How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
    • 10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography
    • 5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
    • Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
    • 8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
    • How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
    • The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
    • 10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
    • How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
  • PREPARATION
    • Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
    • 8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
    • Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
    • How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
    • 5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
    • 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
    • How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
    • How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
    • The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
  • SETTINGS
    • The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
    • How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
    • How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
    • Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
    • Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
    • 9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
    • Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
    • Shooting for HDR Portraiture
    • How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
    • How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
  • LIGHTING
    • 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
    • Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
    • How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
    • Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
    • 4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
    • 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
    • 3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
    • 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
    • How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits
    • How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
    • How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
    • Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
    • A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
    • How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
    • DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
    • Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
    • Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
    • 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
    • How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
    • Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
    • 5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
    • Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
    • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
    • How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
    • What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
    • How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
    • Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
    • Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
    • 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
    • How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
    • Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
    • The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
    • So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
    • How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
    • 3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
    • How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
    • Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
    • What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
    • How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
    • Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
    • 5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
    • Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
    • How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
    • High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
    • 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
    • How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
    • Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
    • How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
    • Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
    • Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
    • Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
    • How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
    • Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
    • 5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
    • A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
    • Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
    • A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
    • Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
    • How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
    • A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
    • Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
    • Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
    • Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
    • How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography
    • Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather
    • How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
    • How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
  • POSING
    • Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
    • Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
    • Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
    • How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
    • Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
    • How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
    • Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
    • How to Pose People for Headshots
    • Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
    • 20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
    • How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
    • Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
    • Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
    • Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
    • Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
    • Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
    • Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
    • 3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
    • What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
    • Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
    • Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
    • A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
    • Tips for Posing Men
  • COMPOSITION
    • 6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
    • 6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
    • How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
    • How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
    • How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
    • 3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
    • Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
    • Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
    • How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
    • How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
  • GEAR
    • Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
    • Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
    • 3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
    • Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
    • 3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
    • Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
    • Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
    • Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out
    • Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
    • How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
    • Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
  • ADVANCED GUIDES
    • 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
    • Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
    • 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
    • 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
    • 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
    • Tips for Doing Fall Portraits

    • 6 Tips for Photographing Large People
    • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
    • How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
    • Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
    • Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
    • Self Portrait Photography Tips
    • What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
    • 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
    • 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
    • 15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
    • 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
    • 5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
    • Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
    • Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
    • How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
    • The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
    • 6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
    • 3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
    • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
    • Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
    • 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
    • 10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
    • 7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
    • 3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
    • The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
    • Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
    • Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
    • 6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
    • 7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
    • 7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
    • How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
    • 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
    • 5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
    • Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
    • 7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
    • Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
    • Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
    • 3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
    • 5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
    • 3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
    • The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
    • 5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
    • 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
    • Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
  • CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
    • How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
    • How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
    • How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
    • How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
    • How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
    • Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
    • 5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
    • How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
    • Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
    • Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
    • Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
    • How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $ 10
    • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
    • Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
    • 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
    • How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
  • POST-PROCESSING
    • 11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
    • Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
    • How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
    • How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
    • How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
    • How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
    • Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
    • 3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
    • How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
    • Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
    • How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
    • How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
    • How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
    • How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
    • How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
    • Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
    • How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
    • Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
    • How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
    • Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
    • 3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
    • How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
    • 5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
    • Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
    • 3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
    • Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
    • How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
    • Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
    • 5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
  • BUSINESS
    • Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
    • How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
  • INSPIRATION
    • 5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
    • DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
    • 21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
    • 24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
    • 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
    • 18 Stunning Self Portraits
    • Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
    • 11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
    • Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
    • Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
    • 21 Spooky Portraits
    • Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
    • 12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
    • Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
    • Triptych Portrait Series
    • 8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
    • An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
    • Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
    • 21 Fun Images of People Laughing
  • RESOURCES
    • Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
    • The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
    • The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
    • The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
    • Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
    • People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox

var dpsTopics = {
id: 91840,
titles: [{“id”:”prepare-your-equipment-and-check-the-weather”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”1. Prepare your equipment and check the weather”},{“id”:”get-out-when-the-light-is-best”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”2. Get out when the light is best”},{“id”:”choose-the-right-clothing”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”3. Choose the right clothing”},{“id”:”choose-your-location-wisely”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”4. Choose your location wisely”},{“id”:”use-the-right-aperture-and-settings”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”5. Use the right aperture (and settings)”},{“id”:”aim-to-capture-emotions-and-natural-smiles”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”6. Aim to capture emotions and natural smiles”},{“id”:”enhance-the-colors-in-editing”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”7. Enhance the colors in editing”},{“id”:”fall-portrait-photography-tips-final-words”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”Fall portrait photography tips: final words”},{“id”:”prepare-your-equipment-and-check-the-weather”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”1. Prepare your equipment and check the weather”},{“id”:”get-out-when-the-light-is-best”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”2. Get out when the light is best”},{“id”:”choose-the-right-clothing”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”3. Choose the right clothing”},{“id”:”choose-your-location-wisely”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”4. Choose your location wisely”},{“id”:”use-the-right-aperture-and-settings”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”5. Use the right aperture (and settings)”},{“id”:”aim-to-capture-emotions-and-natural-smiles”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”6. Aim to capture emotions and natural smiles”},{“id”:”enhance-the-colors-in-editing”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”7. Enhance the colors in editing”},{“id”:”fall-portrait-photography-tips-final-words”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/tips-for-doing-fall-portraits\/”,”title”:”Fall portrait photography tips: final words”}] };

The post 7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results)

Posted in Photography

 

Take the 10 Meter Photography Challenge Now

25 Sep

The post Take the 10 Meter Photography Challenge Now appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Update: Chase is still doing his thing and we’re still doing ours! We thought it might be FUN to make this week’s challenge a re-do of this one from a good while ago – because it’s fun, and we all need fun right now!

Below for details! Tag them #dPSYourTen if you post on social

We can’t wait to see what you come up with!

  • The dPS Team.

Today on Twitter (follow DPS here) I was looking at some of the most recent Tweets from a few photographers and came across this one from @chasejarvis:

“There are at least 10 great pictures within 10 meters of you right now.”

He then linked to one he took on his iPhone to prove the point.

OK – so this seemed like a challenge that I thought might be worth sharing here on DPS.

Your challenge is to grab your nearest camera (could be the one on your phone) and to take up to 10 shots with it within 10 meters of where you are right now.

Once you’ve done that – upload it to your favorite photo-sharing site and share a link to it in comments below.

Update: Here are some of the first submissions to our 10 Meter challenge:

10-meter-photography-challenge.jpg

Images by Chris Parker (sunset) – Out of Kontrol (light) – Jenyu (Dog) – RedLeader (couch) – Foxor (leaf) – randy adamcyk (guitar) – Jamie (Flower)

I’m looking forward to seeing everyone elses images. Please consider passing on news about this challenge to friends and your network.

The post Take the 10 Meter Photography Challenge Now appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Take the 10 Meter Photography Challenge Now

Posted in Photography

 

The 500 Rule in Photography: What Is It and How Does It Work?

23 Sep

The post The 500 Rule in Photography: What Is It and How Does It Work? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

the 500 rule in photography: a quick guide

Do you want to create beautiful photos of the night sky? The 500 Rule is a great astrophotography technique that’ll help you render sharp stars, consistently. Best of all, it’s ultra easy to use.

So if you’re new to the 500 Rule, you’re in luck; this article will guide you through the main principles, explain how to use it, and highlight the importance of applying it in your nighttime photography.

Let’s get started.

What is the 500 Rule?

The 500 Rule is a popular guideline for photographing stars. Its main aim is to capture stars as razor-sharp pinpoints rather than star trails – by helping you calculate the longest shutter speed you can use without noticeable star streaking.

You see, photographing sharp stars – as opposed to slight star trails – requires a reasonably fast shutter speed. If your shutter speed gets too low, your stars will start to streak. And while this can look nice when done carefully, unintentional star trails can become messy.

beautiful astrophotography without star trails

Why is the 500 Rule important?

Truthfully, the 500 Rule, despite its name, is really more of a guideline. But it’s still plenty important, because it helps you capture striking images of the night sky without streaky stars.

You see, when you’re photographing at night, your camera is often starved for light – and so the longer you can make the exposure, the better. But go too long and you get star streaks, which is where the 500 Rule comes in; it provides you with a cutoff point that you can’t (or shouldn’t) go past when doing astrophotography.

The 500 Rule: the basic calculation

So, how does the 500 Rule work?

In principle, the 500 Rule is easy to calculate. Simply take 500 and divide it by the focal length of your lens. The result is equal to your maximum shutter speed.

For example, when using a lens with a focal length of 24mm, you would divide 500 by 24, which gives you 21 – or a shutter speed of 21 seconds.

And when using a 50mm focal length, you would divide 500 by 50, for a maximum shutter speed of 10 seconds.

It is important to remember, however, that the 500 Rule is only an approximation of the best exposure time to use. It won’t always guarantee that your images will be free of star trails (and later on in this article, I discuss some situations where the 500 Rule can fail).

astrophotography with star trails
An image with star trails; note that I did not use the 500 Rule.

When to use the 500 Rule

The most popular time to use the 500 Rule formula is when shooting night scenes of static stars or the Milky Way. When photographing the night sky, the conditions are very dark, and you will need to adjust your camera settings to compensate for the low light. Usually, if you want to capture a bright enough image of a night scene, you will need to increase the exposure time accordingly (and you should keep the ISO low to minimize noise).

This is exactly the time to apply the 500 Rule. By using the maximum shutter speed, you’ll get sharp stars – and you’ll also get a well-exposed image with the minimum amount of noise.

astrophotography mountain photo without star trails
An image using the 500 Rule (without star trails).

Generally, you’ll want to use a fairly wide-angle lens when photographing the night sky because it’ll offer a broader field of view. I recommend a shorter focal length lens such as a 14mm, 16mm, or 24mm to capture more stars in the scene.

For your convenience, I’ve calculated out the maximum exposure times for each of these focal lengths:

  • 14mm | 500/14 = 35 seconds
  • 16mm | 500/16 = 31 seconds
  • 24mm | 500/24 = 20 seconds

Dealing with crop-sensor and Four Thirds cameras

The 500 Rule is a great concept, one that you can use with any camera. However, the basic 500 Rule calculation mentioned above applies solely to full-frame cameras, and you’ll need a different formula for crop-sensor and Four Thirds cameras.

If you use a crop-sensor or Four Thirds camera, the maximum shutter speed can be calculated as follows:

500 divided by the crop factor multiplied by the focal length.

So first multiply the focal length by the crop factor (which gives you the effective focal length). Then divide 500 by the result.

For a Canon APS-C camera and a 24mm lens, this would be 500 divided by 1.6 x 24 = 13 seconds.

For Nikon APS-C camera and a 24mm lens, this is 500 divided by 1.5 x 24 = 14 seconds.

The Four Thirds crop factor is 2, so with a 24mm lens, you get 500 divided by 2 x 24 = 10 seconds.

aurora borealis using the 500 rule

Should you always use the 500 Rule for astrophotography?

You shouldn’t always use the 500 Rule. Sometimes, the suggested maximum shutter speed can still result in star trails in your images. For example, according to the 500 Rule, a 12mm lens should let you photograph down to around 40 seconds or so without star trails, yet an exposure time of over 30 seconds can show star movement. The same is true of an ultra-wide 14mm lens.

So if you want to record sharp stars, you may want to avoid using the 500 Rule with such lenses.

Alternatively, you may be someone who prefers to shoot star trails. If that’s the case, there is no need for you to use the 500 Rule. Instead, use an ultra-long shutter speed to record the curve of the stars as they move. You’ll generally need to apply a shutter speed of 30 seconds up to an hour or more.

(The longer the exposure, the larger the star trail!)

mountain star trail scene

Also, the 500 Rule does not take into consideration other factors such as light pollution, haze, and the angle of the stars. Therefore, even after making your 500 Rule calculation, it’s best to experiment with the shutter speed for optimal results.

The 500 Rule: final words

The 500 Rule is a great technique, and you can use it to achieve beautifully sharp shots of stars. It’s a clever method of finding the maximum exposure based on your camera type and lens focal length, and it really is a brilliant way of improving your photos of the Milky Way and the night sky.

If you own an APS-C or Four Thirds camera, be sure to adjust the calculation for the relevant crop factor. Above all, enjoy shooting the night sky!

Now over to you:

What do you think of the 500 Rule? Do you plan to use it in your astrophotography? Do you have any tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

aurora borealis using the 500 rule

The post The 500 Rule in Photography: What Is It and How Does It Work? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on The 500 Rule in Photography: What Is It and How Does It Work?

Posted in Photography

 

7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography

22 Sep

The post 7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

7 tips for crystal ball photography

Glass ball photography is a fantastic way to create compelling images, the kind that will leave your audience both wowed and curious.

But how do glass ball photos work? How do you set up beautiful images? And how do you use a simple crystal ball to capture such striking effects?

In this article, I share everything you need to get started, including a lensball recommendation, plenty of tips, and even a few crystal ball photography ideas.

Let’s dive right in.

Doing Crystal Ball Refraction Photography - house inside glass ball

How does glass ball photography work?

Glass ball photography, also known as crystal ball photography, uses refraction to capture unique images. A crystal ball (lensball) is placed in front of a scene; the scene is then refracted in the ball. Thanks to the magic of physics, you end up with an inverted image in the ball, which you can then capture with your camera.

As the photographer, you have ultimate control over your lensball image. For instance, by repositioning the ball (and by repositioning the camera with respect to the ball), you’ll capture different perspectives. You can also adjust the aperture for shallow depth of field effects (where the ball is framed by a blurry background), and you can change the distance from the camera to the ball for an interesting close-up effect. I discuss these techniques in greater detail below.

1. Consider flipping the upside down image

Thanks to refraction, the image inside a glass ball is flipped. Which means you have two options:

  1. You can leave the inverted image and incorporate it into the composition. For instance, you can juxtapose the flipped image with the real scene in the background.
  2. You can rotate the image during post-processing, so that the ball’s image appears right side up. Here, you may want to blur out the background with a wide aperture; that way, the flipped background isn’t obvious.

As you’ll see throughout this article, I use a mix of techniques. Sometimes, I like to keep the inverted crystal ball image. Other times, I flip the image for a less disorienting effect.

By the way, if you want to create a sharp, right side up image but you don’t want to do any rotation in post-processing, there is another option:

You can use the ball to photograph reflections. After all, reflections are naturally upside down, but the ball will invert them for a normal-looking result.

upside-down image in a crystal ball.

The image inside the ball will be upside down.

2. Get on a level with your subject

It might be tempting to put your glass ball on the ground and shoot into it, but this will actually cause significant distortion, plus it will create less compositional impact.

Instead, I recommend getting your ball up off the ground and on a level with your subject. The key here is to ensure your subject is centered in the ball, so feel free to move the setup around until you get the composition you’re after.

Note that you’ll want to keep your hands out of the frame, so you can either get up close and only photograph part of the ball, or you can perch the ball on an elevated platform, like a rock, a car, or a bench.

Of course, there are exceptions to this advice. Sometimes, it pays to place the ball on the ground, especially if you plan to photograph puddles or leaf beds.

3. Fill the glass ball with your subject

Unless you get close to your subject, it will appear very small inside the ball. So do what you can to close the distance, until your subject looms large in the ball (and consequently the frame).

This might involve careful planning or even some creativity. The ball is like a wide-angle lens, so try to think about your shot as if you’re photographing it at 16mm or so. Would the scene fill the frame at 16mm? If so, you’re golden!

cityscape crystal ball photography

In this photo, the cityscape is captured inside the ball.

4. Choose the correct lens

Yes, you can do glass ball photography with literally any lens, from ultra-wide to super-telephoto. But if you want to maximize the impact of the ball, I’d really recommend using a macro lens (or a telephoto lens with significant close-focusing capabilities).

Thanks to a macro lens, you can get close to the ball, which does two things:

  1. It lets you increase the size of the ball in your shot (in other words, you can get close for lots of detail).
  2. It helps you create strong background bokeh, which is key if you want to flip the image and keep it natural looking (discussed in Tip 1).

A wide-angle lens can work, too, but only if the scene allows it. I recommend experimenting with a macro lens and a wide-angle lens to determine the effect you like best.

5. Choose the correct aperture

The aperture influences the depth of field (i.e., the amount of the scene that’s in focus).

Set an ultra-wide aperture, and you’ll end up with a beautifully blurred background and a sharp foreground. Set an ultra-narrow aperture, and you’ll end up with a crisp foreground and a crisp background.

Neither is obviously better than the other; it just depends on the effect you want. If you’d prefer to create a blurry background (for example, you want to flip the image without a disorienting result), you might try using an aperture of f/4 or so. This will generally blur out the background while creating a sharp image inside the ball.

But be sure to review the image on your LCD afterward to make sure you get the result you want. If you go too wide, even the ball will be blurred, and everything will become an out-of-focus mess. Also, the depth of field depends on other factors as well, such as the distance between the lensball and the camera, so experimentation is always a good idea.

lensball close up

6. Find a safe place to position the ball

This is very important, especially if you are photographing from a high vantage point. Balls are, well, balls, which means that they like to roll, and you certainly don’t want your crystal ball rolling off a bench (or worse, a building). Best case scenario, it’ll end up with scratches – and worst case scenario, it’ll smash and you’ll need to buy a new one.

That’s why I recommend putting the ball on a flat surface, and a crevice is better (if you can find one). Place the ball carefully, then let it sit for a few seconds. Even if the ball seems stable, keep your (or a friend’s) hands nearby, and watch it like a hawk, especially on windy days. You do not want the ball to blow off in the middle of a photo!

If you can’t find a good resting place, you might just ask a friend to hold the ball for you. Or, with some practice, you can hold the ball yourself (though this is always tricky; unless you’re working with a tripod, you’ll need to hold the ball in one hand while focusing and firing the shutter with the other!).

using reflections for a natural result

In this photo of the Taj Mahal, there is a reflection in the background, and this reflected image is in fact upside down.

7. Make sure your subject is well-lit

Pretty much every photo can benefit from a well-lit subject, but it’s especially important for crystal ball photography.

Why? A strongly lit subject will shine through the ball while minimizing reflections. (Yes, those pesky reflections that come from in front of the ball and can show unwanted elements such as the camera lens!)

That’s why I recommend you photograph with the sun behind you and striking your subject directly. Alternatively, you can photograph during the blue hour or at night, but aim to photograph buildings with brightly lit facades.

(On the other hand, reflections can create interesting effects, so don’t be afraid to try out different lighting scenarios if you’re feeling creative.)

Glass ball photography vs standard photography

Are you wondering whether it makes sense to pursue glass ball photography? After all, do you really want to play around with a lensball when you could be capturing a beautiful wide-angle shot of the same scene?

In this section, I’ve put together a quick list of pros and cons – which will help you decide whether crystal ball photography makes sense for you.

Glass ball pros

  • A glass ball is cheaper than a lens and allows you to create a unique fisheye effect
  • A ball offers flexibility; you can move it to different positions in your scene
  • You can use a large aperture in conjunction with the ball to create bokeh
  • Scenes created with a crystal ball often have a more artistic feel
  • The ball creates a natural frame for your scene

Glass ball cons

  • Larger glass balls are heavy to carry (in an already heavy camera bag)
  • You need a macro lens to get the best results
  • The edge of a glass ball produces distortion
  • Getting a sharp image inside the ball can be difficult
  • The image in the ball is upside down, which gives you another problem to contend with

In fact, here’s a quick illustration of a crystal ball effect. First, we have a standard wide-angle image of a scene:

A wide angle photo of a famous road junction in Shanghai.

And here’s the same scene, but shot with a glass ball:

Lensball road junction

What do you think? Which shot do you prefer? The choice to use a glass ball is yours to make, though I highly recommend trying it out. Personally, I feel the pros majorly outweigh the cons (plus, you’ve made it this far in the article, which means you know all sorts of helpful tips!)

If you find crystal balls too heavy to carry all the time, you can try scouting scenes in advance, then returning for a second visit with only the equipment you need to get your photo.

Glass ball photography: final words

Well, there you have it:

Plenty of tips to get started with crystal ball photography. You will, of course, need a crystal ball – which you can buy easily on Amazon for around $ 27 USD. Once the ball arrives, head to a local landmark and start experimenting. The list of subjects really is endless; you can start with a lone tree, a church, or even a cityscape scene.

Now over to you:

Have you tried lensball photography? Do you think you’ll start? Share your thoughts and images in the comments below!

Volcanic lake found in Indonesia in glass ball

Natural landscapes look great inside the ball. This is a volcanic lake found in Indonesia.

The post 7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography

Posted in Photography

 

Weekly Photography Challenge – Blurry Background

18 Sep

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Blurry Background appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Welcome to this week’s photography challenge! The aim is to get you to try photographing new things every week, to maybe try photographing things you’ve not tried before, or to get you thinking in a different way to maybe create a different image if you have photographed the theme before.

Be inspired by the photos that others post, try recreate them for yourselves. You can contribute a photograph directly into the comments of this post (Scroll all the way down for the comments section) or you can share them in our Facebook group.

This week’s Theme is Blurry Background what will you do for your photograph?

IMAGE 2
Via: How to achieve Background Blur or Bokeh [click]

You can call it Bokeh or Blurry Background (Though Bokeh is the aesthetic quality of the blur produced in out-of-focus parts of an image.) but this week we want to see your background blur!

Unsure what we mean? Here are some great examples…

  • How to Achieve Background Blur or Bokeh
  • Four Ways to Generate Stunning Bokeh in Your Images
  • Tips for shooting out of focus city scapes

Remember to tag us in your photos if you post them on social media!

IMAGE 8
Closer you get, more chance of background blur you have – Yoda* (*not really) [click]

Good luck with your photograph and most of all have fun!

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Blurry Background appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Weekly Photography Challenge – Blurry Background

Posted in Photography

 

50mm Street Photography: What Makes It Great (+ Tips)

17 Sep

The post 50mm Street Photography: What Makes It Great (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

50mm street photography: what makes it great

There’s a longstanding debate about whether 50mm street photography is the right way to go, or if wider lenses are a better choice. Most people who practice street photography prefer lenses with a broader field of view like 35m or 28mm, but that doesn’t mean 50mm is useless. Far from it, in fact.

There are many good reasons to choose this focal length when shooting photos out on the street. Shooting with a 50mm lens also unlocks lots of photographic possibilities – along with adding some creative constraints – and the results you get just might be among your all-time favorite pictures.

Reasons to use a 50mm lens for street photography

The first lens I ever purchased for my DSLR was a 50mm f/1.8, and I still use that same lens today. It’s kind of a jack of all trades option, and it lets me get great shots in a variety of situations, especially when shooting with a full-frame camera.

I have since picked up a variety of other lenses but find myself returning to the classic “nifty fifty” time and again, especially for street photography. It has a charm and sense of character to it that other lenses can’t match, and it’s a great option for beginner street photographers who want to step up from their kit zoom lenses.

In other words: There are plenty of reasons to use a 50mm lens for street photography. Not convinced yet? Here are some of my favorite reasons to stick with a 50mm lens when shooting on the street, starting with:

1. 50mm helps isolate your subject

Man Playing Guitar
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/1250s | ISO 100

Streets are filled with activity: pedestrians, vehicles, tourists, animals, and much more. Shooting with a wide-angle lens makes it easy to capture an entire scene – but difficult to isolate a single subject.

On the other hand, when you use a 50mm lens, the field of view is constrained, so your subject is often isolated amidst the chaos, hustle, and bustle of daily life.

While you can get a similar effect with a wider lens simply by moving closer to your subject, you may feel like you are imposing on your subject’s personal space. Shooting with a 50mm lens is a great way to make your subject stand out while also maintaining a comfortable distance.

2. 50mm lenses have amazing depth of field

two students in conversation
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/1.8 | 1/3200s | ISO 100

Every lens adjusts the depth of field, but it’s much easier to manipulate DoF on a 50mm lens compared to a wider lens. To get pleasing foreground or background blur on a 28mm or 35mm lens, you need to close the distance between you and your subject or shoot with a very wide aperture, which tends to get expensive.

Moving near to your subjects is fine if you are comfortable getting close to strangers, but lots of street photographers like to leave a bit of distance. Thankfully, the large f/1.8 or f/1.4 aperture on most 50mm lenses lets you get sharp subjects and beautiful background blur even while standing back a bit. This depth of field can be the difference between a decent photo and a great one, and it’s a great tool to have in your back pocket for when you really need it.

Of course, longer focal lengths like 85mm or 105mm give you even more control over depth of field, but these options can isolate your subject a little too much. Whereas 50mm hits the sweet spot; it lets you get enough in the frame while also offering fine control over depth of field.

3. 50mm helps you capture fast action

50mm Street Photography Skateboard

Some might cry foul on this one, since any lens can capture fast action as long as you can get a quick shutter speed – but once again we find that a 50mm lens hits the sweet spot. As long as you have plenty of light and good autofocus, you can freeze a moment in time with any lens, but if you want to do this in a street setting, 50mm is the way to go.

With a wide f/1.4 or f/1.8 aperture, you can easily get a shutter speed of 1/500s or 1/1000s in most lighting conditions, which is plenty for stopping movement and eliminating motion blur. And the midrange focal length is perfect for honing in on one subject while not interfering with the movement that you are trying to capture.

If you want a bit more reach, you can shoot with a 50mm lens on a crop-sensor camera, which will put you even closer to the action when photographing, say, musicians or street performers. The 50mm focal length is ideal for freezing motion on a single subject and focusing your viewers’ attention, which is tricky when shooting with wider focal lengths.

4. 50mm gets you close to your subject

50mm Street Photography Sorority Rush
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/1250s | ISO 200

Here’s one of my favorite aspects of shooting with a 50mm lens:

It’s not really a wide-angle lens, but also not really a telephoto lens. It exists in the gray middle ground between those two extremes, and as such, lets you tap into the power of both. This means you can get up close and personal with subjects on the street without being too close, especially if you shoot with a crop-sensor camera. You can also stand back and give yourself some breathing room while getting near enough to make a personal image.

I’ve shot street photos with a variety of focal lengths and consistently found that 50mm strikes the best balance. Wider lenses capture entire scenes, while telephoto lenses are great for portraits. But 50mm lens lets you capture scenes that also feel personal by bringing you just close enough to your subject, and the results can be amazing.

5. 50mm gives you a unique perspective

Sidewalk Lamp
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8 | f/4.8 | 1/640s | ISO 200

While some people think the 50mm focal length is boring, I have found the opposite to be true, especially for shooting street photos.

When capturing the image above, I was on top of a three-story parking garage and shooting straight down to get a shot of the pathway light. While I was framing the shot, a pedestrian happened to walk through the image, and I got a picture that wouldn’t work at all with a wider or longer lens.

I frequently come across situations like this with 50mm lenses, where a wider focal length would ruin the shot. It’s this unique perspective that makes 50mm so good for street photography. You get a perspective that takes ordinary scenes and turns them into interesting, creative photo opportunities that can ignite your curiosity and inspire your imagination.

50mm street photography tips

When venturing out with your 50mm lens, it’s important to keep a few tips in mind. While each individual photographer has to find their own style, methods, and approach to photography, here are some lessons I have learned that will help you get better photos, consistently:

1. Don’t always shoot wide open

50mm Street Photography Sunrise silhouette
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/4 | 1/6000s | ISO 200

Wide-aperture lenses are outstanding photography tools, but when not used carefully, they can cause problems.

It’s tempting to shoot wide open at f/1.8, f/1.4, or even f/1.2 if your 50mm lens has that capability. But while the results can be sublime, there are a lot of reasons to stop down to f/2.8, f/4, or even smaller, especially when doing street photography.

For one, a smaller aperture gives you more wiggle room with depth of field, plus it results in better overall image sharpness. Street photographers often use zone focusing, which is extremely difficult when shooting at very wide apertures, especially on a 50mm lens.

Also, shooting wide open can occasionally give you too much background blur, to the point that it’s distracting or downright ugly. My rule of thumb is to use my 50mm lens one or two stops down from its widest aperture for most street shooting, then open it up all the way for those situations where you really need it.

2. Capture action through panning

bicycle panning
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/13 | 1/15s | ISO 100

If you really want to take your street photography to the next level, try some panning shots. This is a great way to capture motion using long shutter speeds, especially with a 50mm lens.

Start with a small aperture – try f/8 – and a relatively slow shutter speed, such as 1/30s. Then put your camera in continuous high-speed shooting mode, set your autofocus to AF-C instead of AF-S, and fire away as a cyclist, pedestrian, or automobile zooms past.

It might take a few tries to get the shot you want, but with a little practice, you will soon create works of street art that you will be proud to print and hang on the wall or share on social media.

3. Look for light and shadow

50mm Street Photography Fountain
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/4 | 1/800s | ISO 100

This tip isn’t specific to a 50mm lens, but in my experience, it’s easier with one. You see, the constrained field of view at 50mm makes situations of light and shadow easier to find, since it forces your eye to look at a smaller portion of the world compared to a wider lens.

When shooting on the street, look for unique photo opportunities that use light and shadow in creative ways. Try shooting silhouettes or using backlighting to create interesting photo opportunities. Pay attention to the time of day and adjust your shooting accordingly. I really like going out in the early morning or late evening when the sun casts long shadows over everything; you can create amazing photos that you just can’t get at other times.

4. Capture moments, not people

50mm Street Photography Free Hugs
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/1250s | ISO 200

This is another tip that’s good for any street photography situation, but one that is often enhanced when shooting with a 50mm lens. Try to capture moments in time that display singular elements of humanity: purpose, decisiveness, intention, drive, and so on. Don’t just get shots of people standing around, wandering aimlessly, or sitting and staring at their phones. Look for emotions like love, caring, compassion, happiness, or fear.

Take pictures that tell a story, such as the one above, which I shot on a college campus on Valentine’s Day. A 50mm lens is ideal for these human moments – you can stand back a bit, get your subjects sharp and focused, and create a sense of three-dimensional space through careful use of aperture and depth of field. This elevates your street photos from flat, boring images of random passersby to slices of life that showcase the best of what humans have to offer in this world.

50mm street photography: conclusion

50mm Street Photography Bicycle
Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/16 | 1/20s | ISO 100

Street photography is all about personal choice and finding a style that works for you. While the 50mm street photography isn’t the first option for many people, it has some distinct advantages and unique qualities that can help you create impressive images and develop your own artistic vision.

If you have never tried shooting street photos with a 50mm lens, give it a try. I think you’ll like what you see!

Now over to you:

What do you think of 50mm street photography? Have you tried it? Do you have any images you’re proud of? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

50mm Street Photography Conversation
Nikon D7100 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/8000s | ISO 1100

The post 50mm Street Photography: What Makes It Great (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 50mm Street Photography: What Makes It Great (+ Tips)

Posted in Photography

 

10 Stage Photography Tips (for Beautiful Images)

09 Sep

The post 10 Stage Photography Tips (for Beautiful Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

10 stage photography tips for beautiful photos

Perhaps it’s time to enter a new stage in your photographic journey: stage photography, where you capture performers on the stage at concerts, plays, dance recitals, and more.

This genre combines some of the skills of studio photography, portraiture, and even sports photography. When light is often dim and the action fast, you will be challenged to make sharp shots and need to understand your camera controls well. Stage photography will test your skills, but when you nail a great shot, the results can be very rewarding.

Let’s cover ten tips to help you achieve that command performance.

1. Get permission

Here’s a key thing to remember when you are shooting a stage performance: The show is on the stage. You are not the show. If your presence disrupts the performers, distracts the audience, or otherwise draws attention to you, you are not only being a nuisance, you run the risk of being thrown out. And even if that doesn’t happen, it is unlikely you will be invited back and other photographers may then be prohibited from future shows.

Don’t be that guy.

dancers on the stage
If I had to shoot the whole performance from the vantage point of the first shot (above, top), my photos wouldn’t have turned out well. Even cropping in on the second version, I still didn’t have the full backdrop behind the dancers. Fortunately, I always attend the dress rehearsal (which I strongly advocate!) and can position myself pretty much wherever I like with no fear of being a distraction to the performers or the audience.

It is a bad idea to just show up at a performance with a professional-looking camera and long lenses without prior permission. You may not be permitted inside, and if you are, you could be asked to leave your expensive equipment behind. If you do somehow slip inside and get caught later, there will be an ugly scene. And if you somehow do shoot the whole show and later want to post your shots, you risk getting sued because you didn’t have rights to make photos…which is…well…let’s not go there.

Again, don’t be that guy – period.

2. Be a “photo ninja”

When you do stage photography, “minimal disruption” should be your motto. Here are a few things you can do to get your shots while staying invisible to the performers and audience.

Grease play
These shots date back to 2003, when I was shooting with my first digital camera, a Nikon Coolpix 950. It was a simple 1.92 MP point-and-shoot camera. I got there early, sat in the first row, and used the swivel-body LCD while holding the camera in my lap. There was minimal audience disruption and I captured some decent shots.
  • Dress in dark clothing. Because the house lights will generally be off during a stage performance, wearing dark clothing will help you hide in the shadows and be less noticeable.
  • Be stealthy and silent. Turn off all camera distractions, including beeping, lights, and perhaps even your rear LCD screen. If your camera has a silent shutter mode, then use it. If you must chimp your shots, do it between acts and in a way that your screen isn’t visible to the audience or performers. Do not stand between the audience and the performance, even if that gets you the best angle.
  • Never use flash unless you have obtained prior permission from the stage manager beforehand.
  • Shoot the dress rehearsal when possible. Assuming you can do it, this is the best option. Without an audience, you will have much more freedom to roam, find good angles, perhaps use flash if you check first, and sometimes get multiple “takes” of the same scene, dance, or musical number. Concerts might be the exception to this rule, as the dynamics of the performers and audience reaction to a live performance will be lacking at a dress rehearsal and that typically shows up in the shots. For the most part, however, shooting a dress rehearsal will greatly expand what you can do.

3. Know the show

As with any kind of action photography, knowing what is going to happen in advance will help you anticipate and get the best shots. Read the program, talk to the stage manager, know the plot of the play, and do whatever else you can to better know and plan your shots.

actors playing Cinderella
Know the show. If you’re familiar with the story and plot, you’ll know the key points to photograph. (I suspect you’ll know immediately what the story is here without me telling you.)

4. Do a “site survey”

If possible, go beforehand to the theater or venue when the event will take place. Take your camera and find the best vantage points.

Can you shoot from those spots and still be non-disruptive? Are there multiple places you can shoot from, and can you move from one to another without attracting attention? How long or wide a lens will you need to get good shots from those spots? Might there be someone there to show you the lighting before the show so you can gain an idea of what you’ll encounter?

If you can’t be at the location in advance, at least get there as early as you can on the day of the performance. Winging it while the show is already underway will almost always adversely impact the quality of your shots.

5. Take the right equipment

the magic lantern
A long lens can get you tight shots like this one (taken at 200mm). There have been many times when a 100-400mm lens would not have been overkill.

The two biggest challenges in stage photography typically are:

  1. Getting close enough
  2. Having enough light to work with

And taking the right gear can help. A camera featuring a strong low-light performance with minimal noise will be your best bet. A fast f/2.8 lens makes a difference, too.

I shoot Canon, and the two lenses I typically take when doing stage photography are the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS zoom and the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS zoom. There have been many cases where I’ve wished for a 100-400mm zoom.

Your focal length needs will be dictated by your distance from the stage. Closer is almost always better, and if you can be stageside (and not violate the “minimal disruption” rule), that is almost always best.

dancer reaching out
Talk to the stage manager beforehand, and you might get permission to shoot backstage from the wings. You can sometimes get some unique angles the audience doesn’t see.

I should also address the readers who might be parents going to their child’s play, dance recital, or other stage performances. It’s likely you’ll be taking a point-and-shoot camera with no interchangeable lenses and shooting from wherever your seat might be in the theater. There’s nothing wrong with that. Hopefully, your camera has good optical zoom and not too much shutter lag. Get there early and sit in the front row if you can. If you don’t need to sit in your theater seat, maybe you can find a better spot to shoot from and be less noticeable.

kids on the stage
When little Johnny or Emma makes their stage appearance in their cute little costume, a parent will find it hard to not stand up and do what’s necessary to get the shot. Please don’t be that parent. Try to be as unobtrusive as possible while you make your photos.

Glean what you can from this article, and most importantly, be as unobtrusive as possible while capturing your photos. I know you’ll want to stand up when little Johnny takes the stage in his cute little character costume, and you may forget to turn off the flash and blind everyone with a burst of light in the darkened theater. My simple advice: Don’t be that parent. With luck, a pro will be shooting from the sidelines. Look for that person and give them your e-mail. If you’re nice to them, there’s a good chance they will send you a stellar shot of Johnny.

creative stage photography examples
Play with camera settings like a wide aperture and selective focus and look for reflections on the stage to make your shots more interesting. Don’t make the shot everyone would make. Work at it!

6. Use the right settings and technique

I already mentioned that one of the most challenging things in stage photography is working with low light (especially when action is involved). You’re also likely to be shooting handheld. Maintaining a fast enough shutter speed in low light will require you to either open up your aperture (while being mindful of depth of field), raise your ISO (while being mindful of noise levels), or both.

dancers running under a rug
Dark backgrounds and spotlighted subjects: sometimes the lighting will be dramatic with a wide dynamic range. Understand your metering modes and when you might want to use center-weighted or even spot metering.

The following camera settings work well for me in most cases, though you’ll need to make adjustments depending primarily on how much light you have to work with. It is not unusual to have the lights go from very bright to very dim as a scene changes, the actor walks to a different part of the stage, or (at a rock concert) the lights flash on and off while changing colors. So consider these stage photography settings as a starting point.

  • Aperture Priority mode – (Av on Canon, A on Nikon, varies on other cameras.) You will usually want your aperture as wide open as possible while still getting adequate depth of field.
  • Auto ISO – Let the ISO “float” to deal with various lighting changes. If you find your ISO pretty much stays the same through the performance, you could set it at that spot, but always trying to keep it as low as possible. Learn when your camera produces unacceptable noise and set the Auto ISO top limits just under that value. If you don’t do this, you could later find that the ISO went much higher (and that all your shots are very noisy!).
  • In Aperture Priority, your shutter speed will also float. The amount of action on stage, the focal length of the lens you’re using, and the speed needed to freeze action will dictate what is acceptable. In a play where the actors are standing still and speaking you might get away with 1/30s if you have an image-stabilized lens or in-body image stabilization in the camera. If you’re shooting ballet dancers spinning and leaping and want to freeze them, you might need 1/500s or more to get the job done. See if your camera lets you set a minimal shutter speed when using Aperture Priority.
  • Focus mode – This will again depend on the amount of action you’re dealing with. If the action is slow, single-shot focus is fine. (Remember to turn off the focus lock beep!). If you must track faster movement, continuous focusing can help a lot. Newer cameras may have eye-tracking focus, which can work really well – except when multiple people are performing and in close proximity. Then the autofocus may become confused about which person to lock in on. Learn your camera’s focusing modes so you can choose what is best for the given situation.
  • Metering – This will depend on the lighting you encounter. Usually, I stick to full Evaluative metering, and the camera does a pretty good job. Sometimes, however, when the performer might be brightly lit by a spotlight and the background is very dark, the camera can be fooled and the performer will be overexposed. In those cases, center-weighted metering or even spot metering can be a better choice.
  • Commit it to Memory – I often store different camera settings in each of my camera’s memory modes (C1, C2, C3), so I can quickly change complex settings with the turn of a dial when the situation changes.

7. Composition is always key

As with all photography, composition is king. Use good compositional practices; remember the rule of thirds, leading lines, the rule of odds, and so on. And remember to check your borders for distracting elements.

Shoot wide establishing shots that show the entire stage, then go in for mid and close shots that highlight one actor or performer. Get in tight on facial expressions to capture the emotions of the performer. Don’t overlook really tight shots of details like the shoes of a ballet dancer “on pointe,” or a rock guitarist’s hands really “shredding his ax.”

girls doing ballet
Sometimes you’ll need to go wide.
actors and dancers
Medium shots are great when two people are interacting.
actors with emotion
Tighter shots let you catch the drama and emotion on actors’ faces.
close-up shots of actors on stage
ballerina feet pointing
Detail shots can tell the story. Being “on pointe” is a hallmark of ballet, and these images of dancers on their toes make for iconic photos.

8. Work with the light

Stage lighting can be tricky, especially when you’re trying to photograph with good color accuracy. Various lighting types will have different Kelvin temperatures. Mood is often created with color gels and other lighting color control.

Sometimes you will want to try and correct for these color changes, sometimes you might want to capture the scene as close to the original color as possible (i.e., a deep blue cast designed to simulate a night scene). And other times, you might want to enhance the color or take it in a different direction.

Now, there is one key item that will give the creative control you need:

Shoot in RAW format! There are a lot of reasons you should be shooting in RAW, but stage photography might be right at the top of the list. During the shoot, you do not want to be adjusting white balance or trying to guess what might be best. Shooting in RAW means that the white balance adjustments can be saved for later in editing. I typically just leave the White Balance setting on Auto and disregard it while photographing. Later, when editing, I can adjust it however I like. If a series of shots were all made under the same lighting conditions, I can adjust the first shot, select all the subsequent shots, and sync the white balance to that first adjusted shot. Bazinga!

image with corrected white balance
White balance can be tricky given the different lighting types and colored gels used in the theater. Always shoot in RAW format and you can fine-tune the while balance when you edit.
Dancers in different styles
Left to right: Original white balance; Lightroom-corrected RAW image; black and white version. Which is correct? When shooting in RAW, you get to decide when editing!

There is one thing to keep in mind here: Don’t rely on the LCD screen to judge white balance. It will always show a JPEG image with the camera’s white balance pick, and since you’ll be shooting in RAW, you can make dramatic changes afterward.

For example, in one theater the stage lighting was very warm. I put the camera on Tungsten white balance so the playback on the LCD looked better, but I still shot in RAW. Later, when editing, the Tungsten setting did give better skin tones, so I used that as a starting point. Had it not worked out, however, I could’ve edited my white balance for a completely different result.

Artistic color gel
Sometimes the scene might start or end with creative lighting. Always be ready to take advantage of creative looks the lighting designer might serve up!

Once, a friend filled in for me at a graduation ceremony on a theater stage. Then they sent me the images for editing, and I saw they’d shot the whole ceremony in JPEG. Arghh! The theater had mixed lighting, some tungsten, some fluorescent. The JPEG images had very little potential for adjustment and the skin tones were awful. I even thought about converting the entire set to black and white.

9. Tell the story

I don’t know if every picture tells a story, but when photographing a play, a dance recital, a performance, or a concert, there is definitely a story on stage. It’s your job as the photographer to tell that story with your photos. Here are some tips that will help:

  • Know the story – If you’re attending a play, know the plot beforehand. The same is true of a dance. Almost all ballet is built around a story. Modern dance numbers usually are designed to evoke a meaning and a mood. A rock guitarist will evoke a mood with their music and the song lyrics may tell a story. How can you bring out those stories in your photos? By capturing expressions, movement, peak action?
  • To freeze or to blur? – Not all motion needs to be frozen. Letting moving people blur can add to the feeling of action in a scene.
  • The mood of the light – Good photographers learn to “see the light” and know how its color, direction, softness, harshness, and other properties affect the mood and story. Good theatrical lighting designers know this, too, and work hard to light scenes to evoke the right mood and enhance the story. Unlike a studio photo session where you as the photographer might set the lights, when photographing a stage performance you will work with someone else’s lighting choices. Pay close attention to what they’ve done and try to capture it in your images.
actors happily on stage
Capture the shots that tell the story. I’m guessing you can identify the story here with a glance!
frog leaping through the air
I wanted to freeze this leap. Even with an ISO of 2000, I had to shoot at 1/160s, though I could have opened the lens up to the full f/2.8 setting for a shorter shutter speed.
creative stage photography images with motion blur
Here, I wanted some motion blur; the hand motion in an image from Grease, the attack of the flying monkeys in the Wizard of Oz, and Don Quixote tilting at the windmills. For the bottom right photo, I wasn’t necessarily going for motion blur and was happy to make a fairly sharp shot at a slow 1/13s. Score one for the Canon R6 with both IBIS and lens stabilization.

10. Enhance with good editing

In the film days, after a shoot, all you had were the unprocessed negatives. There were many steps before you could look at your image as a finished print and many opportunities for creative adjustments along the way. Today, with digital cameras, we simply click the shutter and can immediately view the result on an LCD screen.

black and white glow images
So you don’t like to edit, huh? That’s the only way to get this kind of looks. The dancers in their flowing gowns and graceful movement made me think of angels, so when editing, I went for that feeling. How’d I do?

My opinion is that too many photographers are content with the straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) image; after that initial click, they believe their work is done. Many skilled photo instructors will preach the importance of “getting it right in camera” and express a distinct distaste for having to spend time behind a computer screen.

As you may have guessed, I scoff at these folks. Ansel Adams didn’t shoot digital, but I think his quote is worthy of consideration:

The negative is the score, and the print is the performance.”

Ansel Adams

My personal belief is that you’re not done with an image until you’re done, and that includes editing. This might be especially true when taking photos of stage performances. You will not have control of the scene that plays out before you, you will have limited options for changing your vantage point or perspective, you will work with someone else’s often fast-changing lighting, the scene may be dimly lit and you will struggle to juggle shutter speed, depth of field, and camera noise. There are also no do-overs. If the shot isn’t everything it might be, editing can be the fix. Even if it is a very good SOOC shot, might some editing make it even better?

(You did shoot RAW, right? So don’t tell me you don’t edit; you have to do at least some editing with a Raw image.)

Okay, I will turn off the rant. Suffice it to say, I personally believe editing your stage photography images is almost mandatory if you want them to shine.

ballet posters
You’ll also need editing and design skills if you want to do these kinds of things with your images. I’ve been shooting this Boise, Idaho troupe for years. I make posters for them, they keep inviting me back. It’s a good relationship.

Stage photography tips: final words

cast sitting together

How could I write an article on stage photography and not include a famous quote by this guy? You might have heard of him:

All the world’s a stage, and all the men and women merely players.

William Shakespeare

In this play we call life, you’ve been cast in the role of the photographer. Now go expand your talents and abilities. Hold a mirror up to the other players with the medium of stage photography!

warm up routine
Honing your skills as a stage photographer will keep you on your toes.

Stage photography FAQs

If I only remember one thing about stage photography, what should it be?

The show is on stage. You are not the show. If you are a distraction to the performers or the audience, you are not welcome, may be thrown out, certainly won’t be invited back, and will probably prevent other photographers from being asked to photograph performances. Get good shots, but be unobtrusive.

What are the biggest challenges in doing stage photography?

Getting close enough. Working with dim and frequently changing light. A long lens or a good vantage point can help with the former. A fast lens (i.e., f/2.8 or faster) and a camera with a good low-light performance can help with the latter.

How can I make more compelling stage photos?

Know the story. Tell the story. Know what the play, dance, performance, song, or whatever you’re photographing is about. Work to capture that story in your images.

What should my camera settings be for stage photography?

This will vary depending on the lighting, type of show, amount of action on the stage, and other factors, but for starters: Aperture Priority (Av, A), Auto ISO (with an upper limit), Continuous/Servo Focus, Evaluative metering (though center-weighted or even spot works for certain situations).

How can I best deal with white balance issues when photographing under different lights and colored gels/lights?

Always shoot in RAW format and be prepared to edit your shots. A RAW file will allow you to adjust the white balance after the shoot, open your creative possibilities, allow some rescue of overexposed and underexposed images, and help you better deal with image noise.

The post 10 Stage Photography Tips (for Beautiful Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 10 Stage Photography Tips (for Beautiful Images)

Posted in Photography

 

10 Essential Things to Think About for Portrait Photography

05 Sep

The post 10 Essential Things to Think About for Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darlene Hildebrandt.

10 essential things for portrait photography

Portrait photography isn’t easy, and in fact, there are many elements that go into a great portrait. You have to think about the technical stuff like exposure and focus, as well as the non-technical stuff like composition and working with a live subject.

If you’re just starting out with portrait shooting, all this can be pretty daunting. That’s why I’ve broken it down, piece by piece, into the 10 crucial elements you need to think about when doing portraits.

Starting with number one:

1. Lighting pattern

The lighting pattern refers to how the light falls on your subject’s face. Note that your lighting pattern will determine the mood of the final portrait and whether or not the subject is flattered. Therefore, it’s a critical piece of the portrait photography puzzle, one you must get right for impactful results.

There are four main types of lighting patterns:

  1. Split lighting
  2. Loop lighting
  3. Rembrandt lighting
  4. Butterfly lighting

And there are two lighting pattern styles:

  1. Short lighting
  2. Broad lighting

For a sense of what lighting can do, check out these examples:

Portrait tips lighting ratios

Left: Split lighting | Right: Loop lighting

Portrait tips lighting ratios

Left: Broad lighting | Right: Short lighting. Notice how different my subject looks in each image, particularly her nose!

So study different patterns. Test out different options. And note what works best in different situations!

2. Lighting ratio

A ratio is a comparison of one thing to another; here, the ratio compares the dark and light sides of your subject’s face. How much difference is there from the shadow to the highlight side?

Higher lighting ratios lead to greater contrast and increased moodiness. On the other hand, lower ratios lead to less contrast and will give your portraits a lighter, fresher feeling.

Look at the following examples:

Portrait tips lighting with reflectors

The ratio on the leftmost image is very strong, about 16:1 (four stops). The middle image ratio is about 4:1 (two stops), and the rightmost image ratio is almost 1:1 (even).

Note that, as I took these photos, the only difference from one to the next was a reflector (the more even the ratio, the more I included the reflector). And note how the mood and feel of the portrait changes as the contrast is adjusted.

3. Quality of light

Another aspect of lighting you need to think about when shooting? Whether you want your light to be hard or soft.

Hard light is produced by a small source and is characterized by high contrast, enhanced subject texture, added drama, and harsh, well-defined shadow edges. Examples of hard light sources are:

  • The sun (yes, it’s large, but it’s far enough way to be relatively small)
  • A bare light bulb
  • The small built-in flash on your camera
  • An unmodified speedlight

Here are two portraits with hard light. Which use of hard light is more appropriate for the subject?

hard light portrait

hard light portrait miner

Soft light is produced by a very large light source. It is low contrast (i.e., flat), less texture-enhancing, and is more forgiving and flattering for people photography. Examples of soft light sources are:

  • The sky on an overcast day
  • Large studio softboxes
  • A large reflector
  • An on-camera flash that has been bounced off a ceiling or wall

Here are two portraits done using soft light. Which use of soft light is more appropriate for the subject?

soft light portrait of a woman

soft light miner portrait

Along with the lighting ratio, the quality of light will have a major affect on the mood and feeling of your portrait. Choose soft light for flattering, beautiful portraits, and choose hard light for an edgier look with more grit and drama.

4. Lens selection

Your lens will change the appearance of both the subject and the background.

A wide-angle lens will introduce distortion and cause the subject’s face to look abnormal and stretched. It will also give you a large, sweeping view of the background.

wide-angle portrait of a woman in a classroom

Take a look at the example above. Notice how the shape of my subject’s face and her features are distorted by a 17mm lens? This is not an effect most folks will appreciate!

However, there may be instances when you want this look: a humorous portrait, kids having fun, or an editorial-style portrait of a street vendor at a market where you want to see both the subject and the environment.

wide-angle portrait of a man and a horse

The wide-angle view (17mm) adds to the comical nature of this portrait.

Telephoto lenses, on the other hand, compress perspective, which does two things:

First, it is usually more flattering to the subject because their facial features look less distorted.

Second, it simplifies the background – both by showing less and by defocusing background elements. This, in turn, puts more emphasis on the subject, which is what you want.

The image below was shot at 70mm. Compare it to the portrait at the start of this section, which portrays the same subject in the same setting but at 17mm. Do you see how the face is less distorted and the background is both out of focus and more compressed?

woman in a classroom

Here’s another portrait, this one shot at 105mm:

woman in a field

The long lens has compressed the background, and because it is so far away (on the other side of a river), the grass is really out of focus and provides a soft background that makes the subject stand out.

5. Background

One thing many photographers fail to think about is the background. It’s so easy to be focused on all the other stuff that you forget to even look at the background, which then ruins an otherwise great image.

Two questions you should ask yourself:

  1. Does the background make sense with the portrait?
  2. Does the background distract the viewer from the subject?

There are four background elements that can distract the viewer:

  1. Contrast
  2. Bright colors (warm tones are the worst, like red and yellow)
  3. Sharpness
  4. Bright areas

Watch for these in your viewfinder and adjust your camera position and composition accordingly. After all, the eye is attracted to the brightest and sharpest area of an image – so if you can keep the background dark, blurry, and low contrast, your subject will take center stage.

wedding couple with distracting background

See how the bright, high-contrast areas in the background draw your attention away from the wedding couple?

In other words: Get your portrait subject away from the background (far enough to get trees and grass out of focus), and watch for hot spots that grab the eye. Sometimes, simply moving your camera a foot or two to the left or right can eliminate trouble areas and give you a cleaner background that lets the subject shine:

wedding couple out of focus background

The background is now solid, out of focus, and does not take your eye away from the couple. Instead, it complements the portrait!

6. Exposure and metering

For a portrait of a still subject, I almost always use the following camera settings:

  • Manual mode
  • Single-shot drive mode (that is, I press the button to take a single image)
  • Single Point AF
  • One-Shot AF (i.e., AF-S focus mode) to focus and lock
  • Shade white balance (I am usually working in the shade, but if you’re in the bright sun, you might choose Direct Sunlight instead. Just pick one that matches your lighting condition and leave it.)
  • RAW format

Why do I like these settings? They give me the most control over one important thing: capturing a consistent exposure from one frame to the next. If you ever decide to do portraits for a friend or have paying clients, you want to be able to show images on the back of your camera without worrying about that random shot in the middle that was black because you forgot to adjust the exposure.

camera controls

(These settings also make editing much faster.)

So set your exposure, do a test shot (review it using the histogram), then don’t make adjustments unless you move to a new location or the light changes.

7. Focusing

I already mentioned my focusing settings above, but I’d like to recommend one more option:

Back-button focus, which lets you engage your camera’s focusing mechanism by pressing a button on the back of your camera, rather than the shutter button.

That way, you can lock focus on the subject – on their eye, if you’re close enough – then recompose the portrait and shoot away. Unless you or the subject move, there is no need to refocus.

Of course, if you’re shooting a moving target, like kids in action, you’ll want to choose different focus settings. Try continuous focusing (AI Servo/AF-C) plus your camera’s fastest burst mode.

8. Posing the subject

Getting your subject or model into a comfortable yet flattering pose can be tricky. People are generally nervous when being photographed and will look to you for guidance on how to stand, hold their body, turn their head, and adjust their hands. So you need to have a few posing ideas at the ready.

Here are some tips:

  • If it bends, bend it. In other words: Get your subject out of a stiff body position by bending one leg slightly, bend the elbows, and bend the wrists.
  • Ask your subject to shift their weight away from the camera for a more flattering pose.
  • Ask your subject to turn their body when standing. You can tell them to turn and point their feet (the body will follow naturally).
  • Turn your subject’s shoulders slightly to narrow the body width; this is flattering for most people.
  • Let your subject pose naturally at first, then make slight tweaks or adjustments. Watch how they move on their own so the final pose looks like them.
two different poses

Check out the images above. The left shot is stiff and boring – but the right shot has bent limbs, shifted shoulders, weight toward the back, and more.

9. Facial view and camera angle

How you position the subject’s face is another factor that determines the portrait’s beauty and mood. Some people look really great in full face view (facing the camera directly), but most benefit from turning slightly to one side, thus narrowing the face a little.

People cannot see their profile view in the mirror, so most subjects have no idea what they look like from the side. Only by trying it out can you determine whether it’s flattering for them.

The key to choosing the right face angle is to observe your subject. Do they tend to turn slightly when talking to you? Take note; that is probably the side they subconsciously prefer.

head anglesThe images above show three different views of the same woman’s face. She has a really gorgeous profile and a square jaw. I think the profile and last image (¾ face view) are the most flattering, but she looks great in any image.

You must help your subject look their best by doing comparisons and making choices, and if you’re in doubt, just shoot various poses and choose later (or let them pick).

As for the camera angle: This will determine what you emphasize on the subject. A low camera angle can show height and make someone look taller, but it also emphasizes the body more, which is not a good choice if someone wants to appear slimmer.

On the other hand, a slightly-above-eye-level angle will emphasize the face and minimize the body, a good choice for most people. It also makes kids look smaller and can be effective if that’s the look you’re after. A really high angle will make the forehead more prominent (perhaps not the best choice for subjects with a receding hairline).

Just know that where you place your camera will affect the final look of the portrait.

10. Expression

Okay, this is the thing you need to get right for great portraits. You can nail all nine points above, but if the subject has a bad expression, they will not like the image.

Here’s my big tip for getting the best expressions:

Talk to the subject and interact with them. That’s how I got this shot:

child with ultrasound

This little girl is holding a photo of her auntie’s ultrasound; I just asked her to show me her baby cousin, and she did this.

I’ve photographed Bob (below) many times. He is a volunteer at an old coal mine where I do a workshop twice a year. He was a miner way back in the day and is as spry in his 70s as many people in their 40s! He loves telling stories about the mine and ghosts, so I just get him talking and let him go. We have fun, he loves being my model for a day, and it shows in the images.

man in a mine

Pro tip: Instead of putting your camera to your eye, try talking to your subject with your camera on a tripod, then shoot with a remote trigger. That way, you can have eye contact, which will significantly enhance your subject’s expression!

Portrait photography essentials: putting it all together

Whew! See, I told you doing portraits comes with a lot to think about. But you can do it. You got this. Just take it one step at a time. If you aren’t at the stage of getting all 10 of these things right, just pick one and work on it. Choose patient models that will help you practice. The only way to get better is by doing!

Now over to you:

Which of these portrait photography essentials do you struggle with the most? Do you have any tips for improving portraits? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

woman intense portrait

Table of contents

Portrait Photography

  • GENERAL
    • 15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
    • 10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
    • How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
    • 10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography

    • 5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
    • Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
    • 8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
    • How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
    • The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
    • 10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
    • How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
  • PREPARATION
    • Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
    • 8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
    • Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
    • How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
    • 5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
    • 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
    • How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
    • How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
    • The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
  • SETTINGS
    • The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
    • How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
    • How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
    • Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
    • Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
    • 9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
    • Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
    • Shooting for HDR Portraiture
    • How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
    • How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
  • LIGHTING
    • 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
    • Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
    • How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
    • Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
    • 4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
    • 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
    • 3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
    • 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
    • How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits
    • How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
    • How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
    • Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
    • A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
    • How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
    • DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
    • Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
    • Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
    • 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
    • How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
    • Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
    • 5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
    • Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
    • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
    • How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
    • What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
    • How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
    • Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
    • Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
    • 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
    • How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
    • Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
    • The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
    • So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
    • How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
    • 3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
    • How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
    • Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
    • What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
    • How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
    • Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
    • 5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
    • Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
    • How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
    • High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
    • 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
    • How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
    • Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
    • How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
    • Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
    • Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
    • Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
    • How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
    • Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
    • 5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
    • A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
    • Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
    • A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
    • Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
    • How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
    • A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
    • Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
    • Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
    • Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
    • How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography
    • Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather
    • How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
    • How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
  • POSING
    • Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
    • Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
    • Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
    • How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
    • Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
    • How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
    • Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
    • How to Pose People for Headshots
    • Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
    • 20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
    • How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
    • Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
    • Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
    • Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
    • Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
    • Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
    • Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
    • 3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
    • What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
    • Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
    • Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
    • A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
    • Tips for Posing Men
  • COMPOSITION
    • 6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
    • 6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
    • How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
    • How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
    • How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
    • 3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
    • Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
    • Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
    • How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
    • How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
  • GEAR
    • Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
    • Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
    • 3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
    • Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
    • 3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
    • Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
    • Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
    • Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out
    • Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
    • How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
    • Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
  • ADVANCED GUIDES
    • 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
    • Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
    • 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
    • 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
    • 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
    • Tips for Doing Fall Portraits
    • 6 Tips for Photographing Large People
    • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
    • How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
    • Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
    • Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
    • Self Portrait Photography Tips
    • What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
    • 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
    • 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
    • 15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
    • 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
    • 5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
    • Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
    • Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
    • How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
    • The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
    • 6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
    • 3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
    • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
    • Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
    • 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
    • 10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
    • 7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
    • 3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
    • The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
    • Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
    • Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
    • 6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
    • 7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
    • 7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
    • How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
    • 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
    • 5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
    • Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
    • 7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
    • Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
    • Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
    • 3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
    • 5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
    • 3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
    • The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
    • 5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
    • 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
    • Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
  • CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
    • How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
    • How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
    • How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
    • How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
    • How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
    • Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
    • 5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
    • How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
    • Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
    • Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
    • Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
    • How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $ 10
    • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
    • Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
    • 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
    • How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
  • POST-PROCESSING
    • 11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
    • Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
    • How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
    • How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
    • How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
    • How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
    • Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
    • 3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
    • How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
    • Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
    • How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
    • How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
    • How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
    • How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
    • How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
    • Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
    • How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
    • Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
    • How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
    • Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
    • 3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
    • How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
    • 5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
    • Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
    • 3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
    • Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
    • How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
    • Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
    • 5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
  • BUSINESS
    • Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
    • How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
  • INSPIRATION
    • 5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
    • DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
    • 21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
    • 24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
    • 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
    • 18 Stunning Self Portraits
    • Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
    • 11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
    • Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
    • Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
    • 21 Spooky Portraits
    • Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
    • 12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
    • Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
    • Triptych Portrait Series
    • 8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
    • An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
    • Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
    • 21 Fun Images of People Laughing
  • RESOURCES
    • Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
    • The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
    • The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
    • The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
    • Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
    • People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox

var dpsTopics = {
id: 92030,
titles: [{“id”:”lighting-pattern”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”1. Lighting pattern”},{“id”:”lighting-ratio”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”2. Lighting ratio”},{“id”:”quality-of-light”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”3. Quality of light”},{“id”:”lens-selection”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”4. Lens selection”},{“id”:”background”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”5. Background”},{“id”:”exposure-and-metering”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”6. Exposure and metering”},{“id”:”focusing”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”7. Focusing”},{“id”:”posing-the-subject”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”8. Posing the subject”},{“id”:”facial-view-and-camera-angle”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”9. Facial view and camera angle”},{“id”:”expression”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”10. Expression”},{“id”:”portrait-photography-essentials-putting-it-all-together”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”Portrait photography essentials: putting it all together”},{“id”:”lighting-pattern”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”1. Lighting pattern”},{“id”:”lighting-ratio”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”2. Lighting ratio”},{“id”:”quality-of-light”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”3. Quality of light”},{“id”:”lens-selection”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”4. Lens selection”},{“id”:”background”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”5. Background”},{“id”:”exposure-and-metering”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”6. Exposure and metering”},{“id”:”focusing”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”7. Focusing”},{“id”:”posing-the-subject”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”8. Posing the subject”},{“id”:”facial-view-and-camera-angle”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”9. Facial view and camera angle”},{“id”:”expression”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”10. Expression”},{“id”:”portrait-photography-essentials-putting-it-all-together”,”permalink”:”https:\/\/digital-photography-school.com\/10-crucial-things-need-think-portrait-photography\/”,”title”:”Portrait photography essentials: putting it all together”}] };

The post 10 Essential Things to Think About for Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darlene Hildebrandt.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 10 Essential Things to Think About for Portrait Photography

Posted in Photography

 

dPS Weekly Photography Challenge Rain

04 Sep

The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge Rain appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Rain! There’s a lot of it around right now (Depending on where you are obviously) so let’s see your take on this week’s photography challenge theme ‘Rain’ I chose to photograph the raindrops that had run down my window all afternoon, with a macro lens.

#dPSRAIN is the hashtag for this week’s challenge if you’re posting on social media (make sure you follow us!)

Rain Drops from the Melbourne Rain
Raindrops not so crystal clear | Friday’s rain in Melbourne, Australia

If you live somewhere that it’s not raining, and there’s no rain forecast, you can bend the rules and do ‘water’ in general. (Hey, a garden hose and some creativity and you’re making your own rain!) when photographing rain (or water) remember that it looks good with light shining through it, or maybe as a reflective pool, perhaps even glistening on some skin, the options aren’t endless, but with a little creativity, there are a lot of them!

Kids Riding in the rain
Kids being kids in the rain | Kew Traffic School

You can opt to capture a detail (top and below) or a whole scene (above) for this theme, really whatever takes your fancy.

dPS Weekly Photography Challenge Rain

Make sure you tag us on social if that’s where you choose to post your entry for the weekly challenge.

As ever, some help with sharing your photo into the comments section below (don’t click on this photo to upload your photo, scroll down to the Disqus section, log in, THEN click on the little camera icon in the comments)

Weekly Photography Challenge – How To Submit Your Photo

Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

Dance in the rain.

The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge Rain appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on dPS Weekly Photography Challenge Rain

Posted in Photography

 

11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results)

02 Sep

The post 11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

11 composition tips for food photography

Looking to improve your food photography compositions? You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I’m going to share my favorite composition tips – for arranging and styling food, yes, but also for adding creative touches that’ll give you an ultra-professional look.

So whether you’re a complete beginner just starting out in food photography, or you’re a more experienced photographer looking for some composition-enhancing tips, this guide will help you on your way.

Starting with tip #1:

1. Change your angle for an unusual perspective

Beginning food photographers often shoot food straight on, as if they’re sitting or standing at the table with their camera.

And while such an approach can work, it can also fall a little flat. Instead, consider a different perspective, one that will enhance the most interesting parts of the food or highlight key elements.

For instance, a straight-down approach – where you shoot from overhead, with the sensor parallel to the plate – is a great way to showcase all of the food, plus it can add some artistic flair.

Alternatively, shooting from low down or the side gives the viewer a new angle to consider and will highlight the food’s details.

raspberries on black

2. Consider orientation (portrait vs landscape)

As you’re undoubtedly aware, you can photograph food in either portrait or landscape orientation – but don’t just stick your camera in one position and call it a day.

Instead, think carefully about which orientation best highlights the food and best frames your composition.

Personally, I think landscape-oriented images tend to look great for showing off beautiful compositions. But try rotating your camera and see if a vertical shot might work well, too. You may find that a vertical composition actually enhances the photo by eliminating distracting elements around the central theme.

cookies set out on cloth food photography composition

3. Use the rule of thirds for well-organized food compositions

It’s a photography classic, but for a good reason. So if you’re struggling to come up with beautiful compositions, why not try the rule of thirds?

You see, the rule of thirds works by dividing your image into thirds (via gridlines). It suggests you align your main subject and other compositional elements with these gridlines; that way, the entire image feels both balanced and dynamic.

For example, I placed the bowls along gridlines here for a pleasing composition:

bowls carefully arranged composition

4. Break the rule of thirds

It is important to note that the rule of thirds is only a food photography guideline, not a true rule – so you certainly don’t need to stick to its terms.

After all, rules are there to be broken! Don’t be afraid to move food items around and test out different compositions. Try putting your main subject in different locations, away from the rule of thirds gridlines and intersections, and see what you get. Who knows; maybe you’ll hit upon a composition you really love!

Pro tip: Positioning the main subject dead-center or slightly off-center generally works well. It’ll lead the viewer’s eye around the image and then toward the main subject:

the rule of thirds broken with centered bread

5. Consider adding elements to the composition

The objects you include alongside your main subject are essential to creating beautiful compositions.

Of course, it’s important to have a main food element – but you should also add extra items to elevate the scene beyond the ordinary.

Some examples of items to include could be additional food pieces, garnishes to brighten the main subject, cutlery such as a knife and fork, and even cooking utensils.

plates of food
If you are shooting dishes around the main subject, you will need to go wide enough to capture everything in the frame.

6. Add props

In the previous tip, I recommended including little extra elements, such as cutlery or garnishes.

But if you want to really double down and create unique images, you might also try including props. I’m not talking about bits of food, but rather objects, such as bowls, plants, jars, rustic boxes, and the like.

Aim to arrange the items so you showcase – rather than obscure! – your main dish.

7. Re-arrange the elements (beyond the normal)

Often, the natural way to arrange food elements is as a chef or waiter would:

Food on the plate, knife to one side, a glass in the back, etc.

But to create a more striking composition, I suggest you mix it up. Move some of the items to a different place in the frame. For instance, you might move the knife out in front of the food, as I did here:

toast food photography composition

Really, the important thing is to experiment; test out different compositions, use your creativity, and then capture the shot you like best!

8. Use patterns

As a food photographer, patterns are your friend.

And while you don’t always need patterns in your photos, you can use them to creatively highlight your food. For instance, you might lay out a batch of baked goods in an eye-catching arrangement, or you might circle your main subject with a selection of different-colored fruits.

The key is to create a sequence or structure that creatively emphasizes the main dish. That way, the viewer knows where to look – and is also impressed by your artistry.

9. Use negative space

Here’s another tried and tested food photography composition technique:

Use negative space in your image.

Negative space refers to the part of your frame that is free from any elements or props, like a bare table, a stretch of cloth, etc.

And while additional elements and props can look nice, negative space is a great way to encourage the viewer to focus on the main dish without the added distraction that props bring. Plus, more negative space makes for more simplified compositions, which is generally a good thing.

stack of bread

10. Shoot specific parts of the food

Not all of your food has to be in each image.

So instead of zooming out to shoot the entire dish, get close and capture parts of the food. Emphasize mouthwatering details that’ll look great to the viewer, but make sure to carefully structure your compositions; the goal is to make the main subject stand out against the rest of the shot.

11. Use natural and artificial light

Did you know that light can significantly affect your food photography compositions? It’s true. Light can add volume, create shadows, and emphasize (or de-emphasize) different elements.

So before getting started, you will need to think about the light that is present in your food photography location. Observe how the light falls and ask yourself: does it look natural? Is the light too bright or too dark?

Strong direct light, for instance, can ruin your compositions by making the food too bright. So when faced with direct light, try moving your food to avoid this harsh light, or place your entire composition in the shade to create a more balanced image.

In situations where there is not enough natural light, you will need to brighten up your compositions another way. One solution is artificial lighting; consider using a flash, or even a lamp or fixed room lights, to add more brightness and lighten the subject.

bowls arranged on blue
Moving food and drink into the shade can eliminate the harsh shadows produced by direct sunlight.

Food photography composition: conclusion

Food photography composition can make or break your images of food, so you should pay careful attention to these tips.

That said, remember to be creative; if you don’t like one of these tips, ignore it! Food composition and styling is a personal choice and is entirely subjective. There is no right or wrong way of photographing things – so be sure to balance these tips with your own vision. That way, you can create images that look great, and that you love.

Now over to you:

Which of these composition tips is your favorite? Do you have any tips of your own to add? Share them in the comments below!

The post 11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on 11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results)

Posted in Photography