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Posts Tagged ‘output’

Fotodiox launches flicker-free LED100WB lighting heads with dimmable daylight output

11 Jun

Accessories and lighting manufacturer Fotodiox has introduced a new LED lighting head that it claims is flicker-free and suitable for high speed photography. The LED100WB head comes with a 5600k daylight balance and offers a more consistent color rendition than the company’s previous models. Fotodiox claims the heads have a CRI of >95 and while they only draw 100 watts they deliver dimmable output of more than 400 watts. The heads run cool so are ideal for a wide range of subject matter indoors and out, and will suit both stills and motion photographers.

The company claims the output is flicker-free so frame rates as high as 120fps can be used for slow motion video, and that the bulbs have a life of 30,000 hours. The bulbs can be dimmed via a knob on the top of the housing or by using a wireless remote control. Fotodiox claims that the advantage of using their LED heads over tungsten when dimming is that the LED’s retain their color temperature.

In a change from the company’s previous WA heads, which used a Bowens S mount for accessories, these new WB models take Alien Bee modifiers. The new heads are more compact than the WA heads, but they weigh the same and don’t offer a choice of temperature or power.

The heads are sold on their own with a power adapter, reflector dish, a diffuser sock for the dish and a stand. A three head kit that also features folding softboxes with speed rings and a rolling case that fits the whole kit. The single head costs $ 299.99 while the 3-head kit costs $ 999.99.

For more information visit the Fotodiox website.


Press release:

Fotodiox Pro Announces Compact, Powerful LED100WB for High Frame Rate Shooting

Fotodiox Pro, creator and distributor of several lines of specialty solutions for videography, cinematography and photography, has announced the LED100WB: a soft light with powerful luminance for photographers and filmmakers. Built upon Fotodiox Pro’s award-winning LED technology, the LED100WB features a compact form factor and draws a mere 100 watts while outputting the rough equivalent of a 400+ watt Tungsten light. A perfect tool for portraits, tabletop photography, video interviews, short films and even special effects like slow-motion and time-lapse capture, the LED100W is available now as a single light or three-light kit from FotodioxPro.com.

“The world is shooting in 4K, and we wanted to create something that would stand up to its amazing creative potential,” says Bohus Blahut, marketing director for Fotodiox Pro. “In addition to already being quite versatile and ready to use right out of the box, the LED100WB is a perfect light for exciting visuals like time-lapse and slow motion. Go ahead and bump frame rates up to 120fps – we’ve designed the LED100WB to provide powerful, beautiful, uniform soft light, with no flickering.”

The LED100WB features a quick-release front mount compatible with Alien Bee accessories; one simple twist allows the user to mount or remove a whole host of light modification accessories. Each LED100WB comes with a metal reflector, a diffuser and a portable folding 24” Softbox, making it easier than ever to start shooting in seconds. Adding to its great versatility is a decidedly compact form factor – perfect for more creative positioning on a shoot – as well as the option to add barndoors, round and strip softboxes, and creative reflectors to each purchase. For ultimate portability, the three-light kit includes three light stands inside a custom-fit, luggage-style rolling case.

To learn more about the LED100WB and Fotodiox Pro’s additional photography and filmmaking accessories, please visit FotodioxPro.com. View unboxing videos and product demonstrations via youtube.com/user/FotodioxInc.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Digital Photo Editing Workflow – Better Images From Capture to Output

06 Dec

Better images from capture to output

A comprehensive look at the essential steps and principles in an effective photo editing workflow with highlights of key tools.

Have you ever tried to find a digital photo you know you worked on, but couldn’t remember where you saved it, or even what it’s called? Do you find yourself re-editing photos you’re sure you finished before? Or are you stuck, staring at an image you know could be made better, but not sure which adjustments to make, or even where to start?

We’ve all been there: hundreds of images to sort through. Files scattered all around your hard drives; photos missing, others duplicated in unnecessary versions, who-knows-what lurking in mysterious places with confusing names. And prints coming back from the lab looking, well, crappy. All the while, knowing you have photographic gems just waiting to be discovered and brought to life.

Nat coalson digital photo editing workflow image 1 diagram H

If you’re feeling overwhelmed by digital photography, you’re not alone. Capturing digital images has become so easy in recent years that it’s easy to get stressed, if only because of the sheer volume of pictures you’re making.

For every serious photographer, capturing an image is only the beginning of a complex process with numerous pitfalls. So how can you streamline this tangled mess? The key to keeping your digital photography fun and productive is to adopt, and adapt, an effective, consistent workflow.

Why workflow matters

The concept is simple – your photography workflow is the sequence of steps and actions you take to edit your photos, work them up to a result you consider finished, and share them with the world. Editing photos can be like baking a cake or assembling flat pack furniture. You start with raw ingredients, or loose parts, and use an ordered sequence of steps to put the thing together. In a good photography workflow, the end result is a perfectly crafted image, securely stored for future use, all with the least possible effort.

Efficiency is important. Without a good workflow, at minimum you’re wasting time. Worse, you run the very real risk of losing your most precious photos. Forever. A couple of years ago I knew a wedding photographer, then aspiring to become professional, who lost an entire wedding shoot because of relatively simple errors in her workflow. (In short, the mistakes derived from a convoluted importing method and totally inadequate backups.)

Maybe you’re only taking pictures for fun? If you’re planning to continue with photography, you still need to use an effective workflow. If you don’t, your photo archive will become a beast, very difficult to tame. And your images won’t look as good as they could. No fun.

When you’re starting out in digital photography, you need to develop good habits early. Even if you’ve been shooting for years, it’s never too late to improve your process.

Nat Coalson Within the Great Cloister 600px

Now it’s personal

You can craft your digital photography workflow to suit your own situation and preferences. But every effective workflow shares common tasks, proven techniques and best practices. These established methods have evolved with real-world use across all genres of photography. They apply equally to beginning enthusiasts and seasoned pros.

I first began editing photos in the early 1990s, working in a magazine publishing environment. Under tight deadlines and managing many thousands of digital assets, a good workflow was crucial. As a working photographer, I’ve been refining my own workflow for over a decade and I still make little tweaks now and then.

Continually finding ways to tighten the screws helps eliminate the risk of disaster, while also making the practice of photography more fun and rewarding. You can master your own photography workflow, too. You first need to understand the most common problems and tasks you’re likely to encounter. Then learn the best tools and techniques for dealing with them. A good photo editing workflow:

  • Uses the fewest steps possible.
  • Is non-destructive and allows you to change your mind or redo steps without losing image quality< ./li>
  • Protects your images now and for the future.
  • Provides the best looking photos.

So let’s review the essential parts of a practical photo editing workflow.

Nat coalson digital photo editing workflow image 1 diagram V

Stage 1. Capture

Whatever the end result you’re envisioning, great digital photographs begin with good data. You should always strive to make the best capture you can, and in most cases, try to finish the photo as much as possible in-camera. Work carefully to make the most accurate exposure with the ideal level of sharpness for the given scene or subject. Regardless of your capture format, you should always be working to master your camera techniques.

Stage 2. Import

Copying files from removable media onto more permanent storage is also variously called downloading, ingesting, transferring, etc., but the result is the same. Right after a shoot, copy all your images from the memory card into a new folder on at least one hard drive, then back up everything right away.

Backup. Backup. Back Up!

Every computer user knows the importance of backing up data. But too many people don’t do it, or don’t do it often enough. This isn’t a single step in the workflow; it’s something you should do frequently throughout the process. You should have your image files saved on at least three separate media sources:

  1. Your master working drive
  2. A current backup of the master drive
  3. A complete historical archive, preferably stored in a separate physical location from your master and working backups

(The topic of digital photo storage and backup is so important that we’ll revisit it repeatedly in the future!)

Stage 3. Organize

After your photos are copied onto your working storage media (and backed up!), sort through the pictures to separate your favorite images from the rest. The best way to do this is with ratings (e.g. stars) or other ranking methods (colors, flags, etc.).

Nat coalson digital photo editing workflow Image 2 selections

Whichever system you prefer, keep all the photos from a single shoot together in one folder and use the ratings attributes to annotate your selections. During this stage you should also apply and enhance the metadata associated with your files. Keywords, copyright notices and contact information are just a few of the many types of textual information you can embed within a digital image.

Escaping folder hell

In the early days of digital media, it was common practice to move files from one folder to another during the editing workflow. For example, all the original images, often scans from film, would first be put into one folder. As individual photos were selected, processed and output, the files would be copied again (or moved) into other folders representing the stage of the workflow it was in. DON’T DO THIS! It creates a very unwieldy hierarchy of files and folders and makes good organization all but impossible.

Modern imaging software, and more specifically, metadata—allows you to more effectively organize files using virtual methods (such as Lightroom’s Collections and virtual copies) without the need to ever copy or move your original images on the hard drive. In an efficient workflow, there is no need to use separate folders for different types of files.

Stage 4. Develop

This is where you apply digital processing to make each image look as good as it can to fulfill your creative vision for the picture. Like Import, this stage has different names depending on who you’re talking to. Developing is the term most often used by Lightroom users. Enhancing, adjusting, post-processing, and simply editing are other common terms to describe this stage, which itself is comprised of several distinct steps.

The ideal order of operations for developing a photo depends on the characteristics of the original capture; some images will need very different enhancements than others. Still, it’s possible to define a typical sequence of steps as below.

TIP: Work global to local

Make the biggest changes first, then work your way to smaller details. In photo editing, this means first making global adjustments (those that apply to the entire image) before working on the local adjustments. And, earlier in the workflow, apply any changes relevant for large batches of images before moving on to fine tune individual photos.

Develop steps

  1. Crop and straighten. Since it changes the composition, cropping can be the most significant change you can make to a photograph. It’s best to do it early in the process, but you need to use a method that allows you to go back and refine the crop later if you change your mind.
  2. Correct distortion. Most camera lenses introduce various amounts of distortion to a picture; some more than others. Fix distortion as one of your first, regular steps.
  3. Adjust exposure and tones. The tonal range of an image refers to the various levels of brightness of each pixel, from pure white to solid black. Tone is independent from color. Simply setting the white and black points can have a huge impact on the overall appearance of an image, so you should normally do this before moving on to color. Tonal contrast should also be handled during this step; the variation between light and dark tones determines how much impact (or punch) a picture has. Naturally, some pictures will look best as low contrast.
  4. Adjust white balance and color. White balance plays the biggest role in the color of a photo. If the photo has a strong color cast — for example, an indoor photo captured using outdoor white balance settings — you should fix it before addressing tone. But for images with white balance that seems fairly accurate, set the tone before refining the white balance. After setting white balance, consider making other color adjustments, most notably saturation and vibrance, which affect how pure and vivid the colors appear. Alternatively, convert to black-and-white or apply special color effects during this step.
  5. Apply local adjustments. These are edits you make only to small areas of the picture. Examples are dodging and burning (lightening and darkening, respectively) and selective color adjustments. In general, you should try to make local adjustments after you’ve finished the global adjustments.
  6. Apply noise reduction. Noise appears in digital images as soft colored blobs or grainy speckles. Most images can be improved with varying amounts of noise reduction. Photos captured at high ISO, made in the dark, or ones that are significantly underexposed, will need more aggressive noise reduction. You’ll normally want to deal with noise reduction after you set tone and color, because those global adjustments will affect the appearance of noise. Zoom in for larger previews when adjusting noise reduction and sharpening.
  7. Apply sharpening. Sharpening is all about contrast. The appearance of sharpness in a digital image is based on the relative lightness or darkness of neighboring pixels along the edges of lines within the picture. More contrast along the edges equals more sharpness. As such, you shouldn’t try to refine the sharpening levels until you’ve already set the global tone range, because the overall contrast of the image will have a major effect on the appearance of sharpness. Do your sharpening a bit further into the workflow.
  8. Perform retouching. Many pictures contain elements that you want to remove altogether. In some cases, these are artifacts — undesirable results of digital processing or camera characteristics including noise, chromatic aberration, fringing and sensor dust spots. Other times, there’s something ugly in the frame, like a telephone pole sticking out of your mother-in-law’s head. Retouch your photos using Lightroom’s Spot Removal tool or Photoshop’s Clone Stamp and Healing Brush.Other processing can reduce or eliminate the need for retouching, so it can be a waste of time and effort to retouch photos earlier in the workflow. For example, you could spend twenty minutes removing dust spots around the edges of a photo and then decide you want to crop the picture tighter anyway.Do your retouching toward the end of the workflow.
  9. Apply special effects. All the previous developing steps will apply to most of your photographs. After you’ve corrected the technical issues and processed the photo to an acceptable baseline quality, consider applying further stylistic adjustments and special effects.

Nat coalson digital photo editing workflow image 3 barcelona

Stage 5. Output

After you edit photos to a level of perfection you’re happy with, think about sharing and reproducing them. In the digital realm, output generally refers to the many ways you can bring your images into the real world. To do this, from your finished master image, export derivative files, specifically for each intended purpose.

Sharing online is a great start. Most web sites have some important parameters you need to know for your images to look their best (and all web site specs are not the same). Take the time to research the best file settings for your file uploads.

High quality printed reproductions — photo books, notecards, calendars, fine art prints, etc. – also require you to follow specific parameters for exporting image files from your editing software.

TIP: About resizing photos

When you’re editing photos, you should always process your master images at their native resolution. In other words, whatever the pixel dimensions of the image as it came off your camera, do all your editing at that size. Any resizing should be done at the very end of the workflow and only on copies of the master file, each exported to the specifications for the output destination. Don’t resize your master files! (Lightroom keeps this simple – since there are no controls for resizing during the editing process, you can only do it only during an export.)

Nat Coalson Flow III 575px

Conquer your photo editing workflow

When you don’t follow a good system, digital photography can become stressful. Losing pictures, redoing steps, and not getting the quality you’re hoping for are all side effects of an ineffective workflow. Who wants any of that?

Remember that everybody who’s mastered their personal photography workflow had to start somewhere. You’ve likely mastered some parts of the process already. Now, identify specific bottlenecks and key areas for improvement in your own photo workflow. Pick one aspect of the workflow that seems unfamiliar or challenging, and start there.

Crafting your ideal workflow doesn’t happen all at once, nor is it a purely linear process. With so many steps and potential traps, you’ll need to study and practice each of the different stages independently, then tie them together into a cohesive sequence.

TIP: The main reason Adobe Photoshop Lightroom is widely considered the best photo editing software is that it provides most of the capabilities you need to handle the complete photo workflow as describe above.

When you follow an optimized process for working with your pictures and develop a clear understanding of the principles behind your decisions, you’ll have more fun working on the things you enjoy, rather than struggling with tedious tasks.

Practicing good workflow techniques helps you make great photos – easier!

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The post Digital Photo Editing Workflow – Better Images From Capture to Output by Nat Coalson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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A first look at the Sony Alpha 7S 12MP full frame with 4K output

07 Apr

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Sony has just announced a 12MP full frame addition to its Alpha 7 series, designed to output 4K footage over HDMI. We’ve just got back from Sony’s press conference at the NAB show in Las Vegas, where we got a chance to see the camera. We hope to get more hands-on in the coming days, but for now, here’s some more details of the Sony Alpha 7S.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony announces Alpha 7S full frame mirrorless with 4:2:2 4k video output

07 Apr

ILCE-7S.png

Sony has announced the Alpha 7S, a 12MP full-frame mirrorless camera designed for both stills and video. The camera can read out its entire sensor fast enough to output 8-bit 4:2:2 4k video over HDMI at up to 30p, without line skipping or pixel binning. This also promises higher quality for the 1080p video (at up to 60p) it can record internally. Unlike the a7 and a7R, the latest model is not constrained by the AVCHD standard, also offering the XAVC S system, with bitrates of up to 50Mbps. Details are still being announced: more to follow.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Magic Lantern enables Canon 50D raw video output

29 May

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Camera feature modifier Magic Lantern has piqued interest in the 5-year old Canon EOS 50D by enabling video recording on this previously stills-only camera. The development work is still in early stages, but a user has posted raw video footage at 1592 x 720 resolution at 24p. Click through to see why videographers are excited about this newly added feature. (via EOSHD.com)

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Magic Lantern enables Canon 5D Mark III Raw video output

14 May

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Camera feature modifier Magic Lantern has developed a version of its software enabling 24fps Raw video output from the Canon EOS 5D Mark III. This news has grabbed videographers’ attention as it allows for individual frames of 14 bit output, yielding a much wider dynamic range than you’d get from standard 8 bit video files. EOSHD’s Andrew Reid has had his hands on the latest version and discusses its implications. Click through for his accounts of this potentially game-changing capability.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon update for EOS 5D Mark III to offer uncompressed HDMI output

23 Oct

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Canon has announced it will be releasing a firmware update for the EOS 5D Mark III that will provide uncompressed HDMI output for videographers. It will also enable autofocus using lens / teleconverter combinations with an effective aperture of f/8, using the camera’s central cross-type AF points in a similar fashion to the recently-released EOS-1D X Firmware 1.1.1. However EOS 5D Mark III owners will have to wait until April 2013 before the new firmware becomes available. 

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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GoPro Hero 3 Black Edition goes 4k, while re-bodied Hero 2 gets ‘pro’ output

17 Oct

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GoPro, the action camera maker, has refreshed its entire range, including the addition of the 4k-capable Hero 3 Black Edition. The existing Hero HD and Hero 2 models have essentially been re-housed in smaller cases with updated user interfaces and will sit alongside the Black Edition as the White and Silver Editions, respectively. The Hero 3 Balck Edition can shoot at up to 3840×2160 pixels at 15 frames per second. It also has 2.7k mode (2716 horizontal pixels) at 30 or 24fps and a Protune mode that offers higher bit-rates and a neutral color profile better suited to post-processing.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Output from Lightroom to Your Blog

16 Oct

Lightroom print image with border opener

I use Lightroom to prepare the images ready to upload to my blogs so it’s critical that I can get them out of Lightroom all ready to upload without having to do any more work on them. On one blog I use framed images and therein lies a problem – the images need a thin keyline around them so you can see the edge. Without an edge the image would just blend into the surrounding white background of the blog page.

So, here’s how to create a frame effect in Lightroom – the images will be sized for the web with the appropriate resolution, they will have a frame around them, together with my name, and they will have a keyline around the image and around the page itself. And, to finish, it will all be saved as a reusable template.

Start outside Lightroom in any graphics or photo-editing program and create an image 500 x 600 pixels in size and filled with white. Save it as a jpeg format image and import it into Lightroom – place it somewhere easy to find.

Lightroom print image with border 1

Then, in Lightroom place the images for the blog post into a collection and add the empty image you just created to the same collection. For convenience I use a single collection for the images destined for my blog – it makes them easier to find and it simplifies the output process.

Switch to the Print module and select the collection. To configure the document size, from the Layout Style panel select Custom Package and from the Print Job panel set Print To to read JPEG file. Set the File Resolution to 100 ppi and select the Custom File Dimensions to 5 in x 4 in to make a landscape orientation image which will ultimately be created as a 500 x 400 pixel image. Set Color Management Profile to sRGB.

Lightroom print image with border 2

Now, drag and drop the first image into the work area and size it to suit. Choose Image Settings > Inner Stroke and then set the width to 0.2 pt black line. This will appear around the image.

Lightroom print image with border 3

Now drag the empty white image into an empty place in the work area and then size it to just smaller than the size of the work area. It will automatically have a line around it – the Inner Stroke setting is applied to all the images. To place this image behind the first image, right click it and choose Send to Back.

Lightroom print image with border 4

The text is added using an Identity Plate. To make one, click the Page panel and enable the Identity Plate checkbox. Click the small triangle in the Identity Plate box and click Edit and then click Use a styled text identity plate. Type the Identity Plate text – for example, mine reads Helen Bradley | Photography – select and format it as desired. Click the Custom button, click Save As and type a name for it, click Save and then Ok to add it. Move it into position and size it to suit.

Lightroom print image with border 5

When you’re done click Print to File to print the image.

Lightroom print image with border 6

To save the design as a template you can use over and over again, click the + opposite Template Browser in the left panel. Type a name for the template.

Lightroom print image with border 7

In future you can select this template and use it to print another image. Before you do so, you will need to drag and drop an image into the image placeholder and add the empty image to the larger placeholder. If you want to be able to print portrait orientation images, repeat the process to create a second template – you can reuse the empty image and the Identity Plate.

Lightroom print image with border 8

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Output from Lightroom to Your Blog



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645 PRO app for iPhone offers access to uncompressed camera output (but not Raw)

21 Apr

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App developer Jag.gr has launched 645 PRO, a flexible photography and processing app that provides access to the uncompressed output of the iPhone’s camera. The company grabs the processed camera output before the phone compresses it, and saves it as a TIFF file. These files, which it slightly optimistically calls ‘Developed Raw,’ can then be accessed via iTunes. The app also offers a series of features such as spot metering and exposure, focus and white balance lock, as well as a series of film simulation options and aspect ratio options, but it’s the uncompressed output that is, as far as we are aware, unique.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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