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How to Take Great Photographs at the Fairground

02 Jul

Packed with people, bright lights and fast-moving rides, fairgrounds can provide photographers with loads of opportunities to take some colourful and creative images. So, why not grab your camera, head to your nearest fair and try out some of the following ideas for yourself.

Somethingwicked750

When to visit

Fairgrounds can be fun to take pictures of, whether you go in the daytime, or at night. However, with their bright lights, they really come alive once the sun has gone down. My preferred time to arrive is around one hour before sunset, as this allows you to take a look around before it gets dark, and gives you time to plan your shots.

Arriving at this time will also enable you to shoot during the crossover period – the part of the evening where the sun has set, but there is still light and colour in the sky. The deep, dark blue sky provides a striking contrast to the bright, colourful lights and can often look better in photographs than a fully black night sky. In my opinion, this is the optimum time to capture fairgrounds in all their vibrant glory.

What to take with you

Whatever lens you choose to take, there should be some great photo opportunities awaiting you. However, if possible, take a variety of lenses to expand the range of shots you can take. A wide-angle will be useful for capturing the action of fairground rides and a telephoto will enable you to crop closer into details, or people on the rides. The accompanying shots were taken using 24-105mm and 70-200mm lenses. When visiting the fair with friends and family, I have also found it useful to take a 50mm (f/1.8) lens so that I cAN take some pictures of them enjoying themselves.

If you’re planning to capture the fairground rides after sunset you are going to need a tripod due to the slow shutter speeds that you will be using. A remote shutter release will also come in very useful to reduce the risk of blurred images from camera shake.

Photographing fairground rides

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The most dynamic and exciting photographs of fairground rides aim to convey a sense of speed and movement. Slow shutter speeds are used to capture the colourful trails and patterns created by the fast-moving lights. They’re fun to take, and you can get some dramatic shots relatively easily.

Once you have decided which ride to shoot, fix your camera to your tripod and fit a remote release. (Remember to turn off Image stabilization if your lens has this.) Shutter speed is the most important aspect of getting the correct exposure in this instance, so set your camera to shutter-priority or manual mode. The amount of movement you capture in the image will vary on a number of factors, not least the speed of the ride itself, but a good place to start is with a shutter speed of one second.

Set the ISO to the lowest setting available and the white-balance to Auto, as this should be effective in most situations. (For long-exposure shots such as these, I would recommend shooting in RAW so that you will be able to change the white balance settings during post-processing if necessary.) Autofocus may struggle in low-level light, so manually focus on a part of the ride when it is not moving.

Take a test shot using these settings while the ride is stationary to check the exposure. Pay particular attention to the sky and, if necessary, use exposure compensation. Then, as the ride begins to move, play around with the shutter speed to see what works best. Anything longer than ½ second should produce a decent amount of motion blur and light trails, the effect does depend on the speed of the ride. Keeping the shutter open for a longer time means that you can capture more light trails and patterns – although sometimes this can result in images with messier light trails and a lack of clear, distinct shapes. Ultimately, your choice of shutter speed will depend on the nature of the ride (how fast and how much it moves – vertically, horizontally, diagonally etc.) and your creativity (personal preferences between clean light trails or chaotic swirls of colour).

When composing your shot, give some thought to the angle you are taking it from. Try to get in close and shoot from a low angle, looking up at the ride to minimize distracting backgrounds, but always stay a safe distance from moving rides. Remember to leave enough space in the frame to capture all of the movement so that you don’t inadvertently cut anything off. Spend some time watching how the ride moves before taking a shot. Also, with all the movement going on, try to include a still element in the frame to help ground the image. Signage, fairground stalls, or even (non-moving) spectators can add to the story you are telling in your final image.

Photographing people at fairgrounds

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Fairgrounds are not just about the rides. By providing great lighting and a fun-filled atmosphere, they’re the ideal place to try out some candid photography. Candid shots of people engaging in activities around the fair will be more interesting than shots of people sitting around doing nothing and often will add an element of story to your image. Also, by being focussed on the activity, your subject is less likely to focus on you taking their photograph. This can produce better candid shots because as soon as a person knows they are being photographed, their natural behaviour tends to disappear quite quickly. Why not take advantage of all the activities on offer at the fair, and try to capture people’s reactions to the action – whether that is trying to win a prize on a fairground stall, eating one of the many sugar-based treats on offer, or even waiting in line for a ride.

When taking candid pictures, set your camera to continuous shooting mode and take a number of shots in quick succession to stand a better chance of perfectly capturing the reaction you want from your subject. Use a wide aperture to let in lots of light. It may also be necessary for you to increase the ISO setting to get the correct exposure. A telephoto lens with a focal length of around 200mm should enable you to capture the (often extreme) reactions of people on fairground rides for some particularly dramatic candid shots.

The lighting at fairgrounds can also be great for illuminating people for some posed shots. Colourful lights can produce great background bokeh for fun portrait shots of friends and family. Simply put, bokeh is created by out-of-focus light so you will need a shallow depth of field. Using a very wide aperture will help, but you will also need to think about the distance between the subject and the light sources (the further away the better) and the distance between the subject and your camera (stand close to the subject and use a reasonably long focal length). There is often enough light available from other sources to fully illuminate the subject, but a flash with a diffuser may also come in handy.

Get creative

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One of the best reasons to take pictures at fairgrounds is that they’re a great place to get really creative as a photographer and experiment with a range of techniques. You can add movement and drama to your images, even when the rides are not moving. For instance, try to create a zoom burst effect in-camera. Use the slow shutter speed settings detailed previously, then manually change the zoom on the lens, while the shutter is open. Experiment with different shutter speeds and staggered zooms; you may be surprised at how the effect changes. For even wilder shots, try the zoom effect on a ride that is moving – to illustrate the type of effects you can achieve, the two shots below show the same moving fairground ride with the zoom burst technique applied to the second image.

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A good way to add an increased sense of speed to a slower ride, such as the dodgem cars or carousel, is to take a panning shot by moving your camera in line with the moving subject during exposure. The aim is to keep the subject (carousel horse) as sharp as possible and the background as blurry as possible. Shoot in shutter-priority mode and select a speed of 1/30th of a second to start. You can then experiment with slower speeds depending on the level of light and the speed of the subject. Make sure to shoot in continuous shooting mode and, if your camera has it, use automatic focus tracking. Press the shutter half way to activate the focus tracking when the subject enters the frame. Lock focus on the subject and, as smoothly as possible, pan your camera to match the movement of the subject and take your shots.

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Finally, when leaving the fair, try to capture the fairground lights as part of a wider landscape shot if possible. If the fair is anywhere near water (on a seaside pier, for example) look out for the creative potential of reflected fairground lights.

Have fun!

When taking pictures at the fairground, like at any other busy event, stay safe, keep an eye on your kit and remember to have some fun while you are there!

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The post How to Take Great Photographs at the Fairground by Richard Beech appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Photograph Fairground Rides

05 Sep

Learn how to photograph the fairground at night

When it comes to taking pictures of the fairground or amusement park, you’ll be amazed at just how easy it is to get super colourful, vibrant, and bright images of those awesome rides. Twilight is the best time to shoot, when all those mega-joules of artificial lights burst into action to give you amazing effects that aren’t possible during the day time.

Here’s what you’ll need:

  • A tripod – essential for long exposures
  • A DSLR or Mirrorless camera with manual (M) mode
  • A wide angle lens
  • To shoot in RAW format (always)

When is the best time to shoot?

The optimum time is about 30 minutes after the sun has set. If you’re lucky, there will be a beautiful colourful afterglow in the clouds, but it will still be dark enough for all the artificial light to be the brightest parts of your image. When it gets fully dark you can still get stunning shots, but the sky may just be a dark blanket if there is cloud cover.

How to Photograph Fairground Rides

Harness the power of higher ISO

By increasing your ISO settings to around 400,  you’re increasing the light sensitivity of your camera. You can try higher settings (larger ISO numbers) but your goal here is to achieve an exposure time of around one to two seconds so that you capture some motion blur in the people and in the rides. Using a higher ISO than 400 will speed up your exposure time and you don’t necessarily want that, unless you want to totally freeze all of the motion in your shot. There’s some trial and error involved, depending on the available light of your scene, so my number of 400 is approximate.

When the rides are static, you won’t capture any motion blur but as soon as they start to move (and they usually move fast), you’ll find that the one to two second exposure time is ideal for capturing a lot of movement.

Shoot in time-lapse mode

By taking pictures every four seconds, you’ll end up with a huge variation of different motion blur as the rides progress through their cycle. It’s almost like shooting video, but by shooting time-lapse, you’ll ensure that every frame is a full resolution image – video can’t compete with that. This technique ensures that you capture lots of images at different stages of the ride. Here’s a one minute time-lapse movie I made while shooting stills at the fair using this technique.

If your camera has a built-in intervalometer or time-lapse app, you’re in luck. Set your interval at four seconds, and your camera will take a picture every four seconds. If you’ve set your exposure time to two seconds that gives you a two second gap after your shot has finished before the next shot will be triggered. Make your time-lapse last for about a five minute duration, and you should be able to capture images of the rides while they are static and while they are moving – it depends on how busy the rides are and how long the ride cycle lasts.

You can then overlay those blurred images with the static images in Photoshop to create the ultimate composite of sharp static scenes, and motion blurred scenes.

Don’t worry if your camera doesn’t have a time-lapse function, you’ll just need to take as many pictures as you think will capture your desired motion blur and static states. Alternatively you could buy an intervalometer which will connect to your camera and trigger the shutter for time lapse shooting.

Top Tip: Be sure to switch off your built-in noise reduction as this will slow down your write times to the memory card, and will mess up your intervals.

Photographing Amusement Parks

Choose the right white balance

It’s important to set the right white balance on your camera for this type of shooting. Don’t trust the auto setting because there are so many different light sources that your camera won’t know which setting to choose. For all of the shots I took with the Sony A7R, I used the Fluorescent Warm setting.

Experiment to get the most pleasing looking white balance for your scene, try to avoid everything looking super orange. Look at the scene with your eyes, then look at your shot to try and get the most accurate colour temperature.

It’s full of stars!

Night time photography tutorial

In shots like the one above, you can see a very pleasing looking blue star on the lamp post. All lenses produce their own characteristic stars, some are better than others. One thing you can do to get the best star out of your lens is to select a very narrow aperture like f/16 or f/22. This will also have the added benefit of forcing your shutter speed to be slower which gets you closer to the two second exposure time I mentioned earlier.

Get up close

Remember that wide angle lens I mentioned at the start? That lens will allow you to fill your frame with all the fun of the fair. Wide angle lenses create a pleasing looking distortion that adds drama and intensity to your shot. A 14-16mm shot on a full frame camera can cram in a LOT of action. By getting close to your subject and positioning yourself at a point that creates a nice looking distortion effect, you’ll really make your images POP!

Wide Angle lens used for Night Photography

Post-production

Noise reduction

What happens to your image quality when you use higher ISO settings? Noise, that’s what. We don’t like noise do we? No, so lets get rid of it using the brilliant noise reduction of Adobe Camera Raw. Your specific settings will depend on your camera’s sensor, as not all sensors are made equal. Here are the settings that I found gave me the best results for my pictures. Experiment with these sliders to get rid of as much noise as you can while still retaining image detail.

Noise Reduction Settings

Fix the shadows

You’ll probably want to brighten up your shadows and blacks a little but don’t overdo it. We actually need those dark areas in our image to contrast with the bright lights, that’s what gives our image its PUNCH!

Fix the highlights

If the brightest parts of your image look a little blown out, pull them down a little with the whites and highlights sliders. Again, don’t overdo it or you’ll run the risk of ending up with a totally fake looking image.

Clarity

Increase the clarity a little to introduce some contrast to the mid tones.

Vibrance

Increase the vibrance a little to make the colours pop and give a subtle blue hue to the sky area.

Use graduated filters in Adobe Camera RAW

The graduated filter simulator is a really powerful tool, but did you know it’s not just for making a part of your sky darker? You can use multiple graduated filters to selectively brighten or darken large parts of your image. If you want to brighten just your foreground, simply add a graduated filter and increase its exposure value like in the image below. You can further tweak just that selected area with the other powerful ACR tools like shadows, clarity, contrast etc.

Using Grad Filters in Adobe Camera Raw

Combine your images to make the ultimate composite

Once you’ve finished tweaking your images in Adobe Camera Raw, it’s time to open them in Photoshop to make a composite image that captures the motion blur and the static state of your fairground ride. It’s worth pointing out that this is just a creative choice, if you’re happy with just a single image, that’s cool too.

Step 1 – Choose and open your Images

From your images, choose one that shows your ride in its static state. This could either be while it’s not moving or perhaps you took a super fast, high ISO shot while the ride was moving and managed to freeze the motion nicely. Either way, pick an image that you like, and open that in Photoshop.

Step 2 – Copy and paste your images

Next you’ll choose an image, or images, that perfectly capture the motion blur of the ride; maybe it’s a roller-coaster ride and you want to catch the long streaking lights of the carriage. Open this in Photoshop so that you’ve now got two tabs, each with their own image.

With the motion blur image open, hit ctrl+a (or Cmd+A for Mac) on your keyboard to select the entire image. You should see the marching ants around the image. Next hit ctrl+c (Cmd+c) to copy that image on to your clipboard.

Now click on the other tab to switch to your first image which shows the static or frozen motion shot, and hit ctrl+v (Cmd+v) to paste your clipboard image on to a new layer above the default (Background) layer. Photoshop will call your new pasted layer “Layer 1″.

Step 3 – Blend your images

Assuming that you used the exact same ACR develop settings for both images, just go ahead and change the blend mode of the motion blurred image (Layer 1) that you just pasted on to the new layer to “Lighten”. The blend mode lives in your Layers panel and defaults to Normal, so change Normal to Lighten.

Now you should see both images combined to give you a lovely composite of both moments in time. If the effect is too pronounced, try turning down the opacity of the second layer to around 50%. For fun you could also try the Overlay blend mode or Screen, for a more intense effect. Remember to play with the layer opacity to get the look you want.

Step 4 – Erase the parts you don’t like

It’s likely that when you’ve blended both layers together by choosing the Lighten blend mode, you’ll want to erase certain parts of Layer 1 if the image gets too complicated. You can do that easily by choosing the Eraser tool and selecting a soft brush size, appropriate to the area you’d like to erase. Simply click on Layer 1 where you’d like to erase and bam – it’s gone (or use a layer mask for non-destructive editing).

Combine Layers in Photoshop

That’s it! You’ve now learned how to shoot and process your amazing images of those mind blowing fairground rides. Go out and have some fun with this, just don’t overdo it on the cotton candy and doughnuts like I did, ugh.

If you have another other tips for photographing fairground rides, please share in the comments.

The post How to Photograph Fairground Rides by Gavin Hardcastle appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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