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10 Rural Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples)

19 Jul

The post 10 Rural Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Have you ever wondered how you can capture stunning images of rural landscapes? Whether you live and shoot in rural areas or you’re simply taking a trip to a rural location, this rural landscape photography guide is for you.

Specifically, you’ll discover:

The best lighting for rural landscape photos
Key tips to take your compositions to the next level
Ways to use weather for dramatic results
Much more!

Let’s dive right in, starting with…

What is rural landscape photography?

Rural landscape photography refers to “photography in the countryside” and covers the rural environment.

While rural landscapes often contain architecture – much the same as urban landscapes – rural landscape photography is more about capturing the life and elements found in the countryside. This can include humans in the landscape as well as elements of human influence.

Rural landscape photography can also encompass rural scenes including buildings, animals, and stunning countryside scenery.

Now that you understand what rural landscape photography actually is, here are some tips to help you capture your own rural landscapes:

1. Experiment with different rural subjects

Rural landscape photography offers you the chance to capture a whole range of interesting subjects, including:

Old barns
Towers
Churches
Machinery
Buildings in disrepair

You might also include modern rural elements, such as houses, working farms, and more.

When doing rural photography, don’t confine yourself to a single subject. Instead, experiment with all these different options. If you find an old barn, take the time to photograph it – and if you find a shiny new farmhouse, photograph that, too!

2. Shoot when the light is soft

You can photograph rural landscapes at any time of the day…

…but golden hour, blue hour, and nighttime offer some of the best times to get out with your camera. The light tends to be soft and flattering, perfect for rural subjects.

Golden hour provides a magical glow that can elevate your images, while blue hour adds a cool tone that works well with subjects such as old houses and derelict buildings.

If you prefer to photograph at night, you may need to be more creative, as the building lights will likely be switched off. I recommend taking a flashlight and painting light on your subject to make it more visible in the final photo.

3. Think about the sky (and the weather)

Want to capture creative rural landscape photos? Make sure you spend plenty of time thinking about the sky, which has the power to elevate – or ruin – your images.

Ask yourself: What type of atmosphere do I want to capture? For moody photos, you can head out during rain, snow, or fog. And for upbeat, colorful images, shoot in strong sunlight.

By the way, you’ll want to consider whether the sky should be included in your photo. On overcast days (where you don’t have much cloud moodiness, but you also don’t have any nice sky color), you may want to leave out the sky completely. But on stormy days, or during dramatic sunrises and sunsets, the sky will add an extra dimension to your photos.

elevated rural landscape with city in the distance

4. Use architecture to anchor the viewer

I find that architecture makes for a great focal point in rural landscape photography; it often contrasts beautifully with nature.

Traditional structures can work great, especially barns with rugged, weathered facades. They’ll create a rustic look and feel, which can really capture the viewer’s imagination. For instance, take a look at this image of an old barn:

Other architecture that makes for interesting rural landscape images includes abandoned houses, old farms, and buildings that have been left behind by people moving to cities. You can capture their aging, rundown characteristics within the surrounding countryside.

5. Don’t be afraid to include people

People often make great subjects in the countryside! After all, they are an integral part of the rural landscape.

One great thing about rural settings is that there is always human activity. At farms, people can be seen tending to their land and farm animals. And people may be out riding horses, exercising, or operating machinery, all of which can make for beautiful images.

6. Animals and the rural landscape

When you go out into the countryside, you will always come across animals. These might be wild animals, which are often well hidden and harder to photograph. Or they might be captive animals, such as horses, cows, and sheep.

Take advantage of these photo opportunities. Experiment with different forms of lighting to create unique farm-animal images. And don’t be afraid to shoot when the weather gets foggy; it’ll offer plenty of stunning atmosphere to play with:

7. Carefully position your subject for better compositions

As with all landscape photography, composition is an essential part of the best rural photos – so it’s important you get it right.

Start by asking yourself: What is my main subject? What is it that interests me most about this scene? Then determine where you want to place that main subject in the frame.

You might put it right in the center of the shot, or you might put it off to one side. It often pays to remember the rule of thirds, which suggests you position your main subject about a third of the way into the frame (either vertically or horizontally).

Also consider whether you want to capture the entire countryside or if only part of it appeals to you. Wide-angle lenses are great for landscape shots, but don’t be afraid to go tight for a more intimate perspective, one that highlights details within the scene.

8. Use the right settings for sharp photos

For rural landscape photography, the best camera settings vary depending on the shots you’re after as well as the weather.

Generally speaking, a mid-range aperture of f/8 will give you an adequate depth of field to keep everything in focus, and this often works well. But if you want to throw parts of the frame out of focus, go with a wider aperture – f/4 is a good starting point, with f/2.8 decreasing the in-focus area even further.

You will want to keep the ISO fairly low, so go for an ISO of anything between 100 and 400. Any higher, and you’ll be risking unwanted noise – but if you’re shooting in low light, an ISO of 800 and beyond may still be necessary.

As for shutter speeds: If your scene includes moving subjects (such as a swaying horse), you’ll need at least 1/100s and probably more. For scenes without significant movement, I’d still recommend keeping your shutter speed above 1/60s or so (though you also have the option of using a tripod).

Of course, shutter speed often does involve experimentation. So don’t be afraid to test out different speeds and see what works best.

9. Head out when the weather is bad

It’s true:

Bright, sunny days – especially around sunrise or sunset – offer great conditions for rural landscape photos.

But shooting in bad weather can bring another level of drama to the scene. For instance, fog can add tons of atmosphere, rain can look gloriously dreary, and snow can take your photos to new heights.

So don’t confine yourself to good weather. Instead, be prepared to shoot whenever the rural landscape looks dramatic (which is often on the most unpleasant days!).

10. Take a walk in the landscape

Here’s your final rural landscape photography tip:

Take a walk. Head out with your camera. Have fun.

After all, the countryside is a beautiful place, and you never know what you may find. You might come across wildlife, blooming flowers, hay bales, and more – all great subjects for photography!

Rural landscape photography tips: conclusion

I hope you found these tips on rural landscape photography helpful. The countryside truly is a wonderful place to explore!

Now over to you:

Do you have any favorite rural landscape subjects? Do you have any tips for composition, lighting, or subject choice that we missed? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post 10 Rural Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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10 Summer Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples)

11 Jul

The post 10 Summer Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Summer is a welcome period for landscape photography, as it offers fully-leafed vegetation, the prospect of warm, sunny days, fields carpeted with flowers, and the opportunity to capture dramatic images of our natural environment.

But how can you create beautiful summer landscape photos? That’s what this article is all about; in it, you’ll find plenty of tips, tricks, and secrets for amazing results.

So whether you’re new to landscape photography and are looking to do some fun summer shooting, or you’re an enthusiast aiming to improve your images, here are some tips and ideas to help you on your way!

1. Start with an idea or a theme

To capture successful images of summer, start by thinking about the types of themes and subjects you want to photograph. Ask yourself: What subjects interest me most?

Of course, what you shoot largely depends on what is around you; for example, in the UK, summer is a brilliant time to see wildflowers in bloom. There is always an explosion of reds and pinks, as fields are often carpeted in poppies. There are also bursts of purple as lavender fields flourish, and this can also make great subjects for summer landscape photography.

Summer also provides a great opportunity to capture fully leafed vegetation such as trees and hedgerows, as well as gorgeous sunrises and sunsets, plenty of joy, and beautifully dramatic weather.

2. Think both wide and abstract

Water – such as lakes, rivers, and streams – as well as dramatic weather, make great subjects for wide-angle summer landscape photography.

But in addition to capturing the sweeping vistas of gorgeous landscape scenes, don’t forget to look for the finer details. You may find stunning gems, such as insects or animals hidden in the landscape, or intimate aspects of wider scene, such as individual flowers emerging from the soil.

beautiful reflection of mountains and trees

3. Don’t forget to location scout, if possible

A great way to identify good places to shoot? Do some location scouting!

Of course, you may already know places in your local area that are great for photography, but make sure to look at them with a photographer’s eye; consider where the sun will be at different times of the day, how the location will be affected by the weather, etc.

In addition to relying on locations you already know, do some research. You can simply walk around and explore – you never know when you’ll stumble across a great scene! – or you can do a bit of Googling. Look for places other photographers have shot, recommendations from locals, and lists of the best landscape photography spots near you.

Then, the next time you’re ready to head out with you’re camera, you know exactly where to go.

field of poppies with mountains in the background

4. Check the weather (in advance)

When undertaking summer landscape photography, be sure to always check the weather conditions before heading out. Although the weather can be more stable in summer, there are often periods of heavy rain and dramatic conditions that can severely impact the outcome of your images.

Aim to shoot on the days when the weather suits what you would like to achieve. For example, if bright landscapes are your preferred shooting subject, go out on sunny days. Alternatively, if dark, brooding skies or rain is your thing, then look for overcast, gloomy, stormy days to capture the shots you’re after.

5. Consider the time of day

Days are longest and nights are shortest during the summer, with the day length decreasing after the summer solstice. There is therefore a longer period between first and last light compared with the spring or autumn.

Consequently, the sun will stay higher for longer during the summer, which means you will have more daylight time to do summer landscape photography. On the other hand, it makes night photography difficult, plus it pushes the golden hours (see the next tip!) into the early morning and late evening.

So make sure you always think about the changing light before heading out, and always check a sunrise and sunset calendar; that way, you can maximize your shooting time and get the type of shots you’re after.

6. Shoot when the light is best

Consider the light you like best for summer landscape photography. Do you prefer harsh light? Soft light? Dramatic light? Make sure you get out to shoot when the light fits your interests.

Generally speaking, the best light is at the start and end of the day – because as the sun rises and sets, the light offers golden hues and magical contrast. The vibrant colors at this time are amazing for summer landscape photography, so aim to set your alarm early and stay out late to maximize the best of the summer light.

seaside cliffs and rocks in summer landscape photography

In contrast, the light at midday is usually a lot harsher, especially when you have direct sunlight. So make sure to take this into consideration when photographing the landscape.

If you are out doing summer landscape photography in the middle of the day, be aware that the midday heat brings haze, which can make images look flat. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it’s important to be aware of the effect so you can use it – or avoid it – in your photos.

7. Make the most out of the conditions

Often, you have limited time at your chosen location to do summer landscape photography, so make sure you get the most out of the conditions you are presented with. Whether you’re dealing with rain or bright sunlight, you’ll have ample opportunities to capture the landscape at its best.

For instance, you can use overcast skies and rain to your advantage. There are still subjects that you can photograph; woodlands are great areas to shoot under cloudy skies, as are waterfalls. The rain can increase waterfall fullness, and both waterfalls and woodlands tend to look more photogenic in overcast light.

8. Use leading lines

One thing you can utilize in your landscape images during summer is leading lines. It’s a pretty popular technique because they’re a great way to lead the viewer’s eye into the frame.

In summer, there are specific things you can find in the landscape that you can use to lead the eye, such as roads, walkways, hedgerows, lines of flowers and vegetation, coastal paths, and trees.

9. Keep your gear protected

If you like to capture dramatic weather, make sure you keep your camera protected at all times. Always bring a rain cover and look to capture your summer landscape images in the period just after a storm has passed. You may even get lucky and see a rainbow.

10. Select your settings carefully

I am often asked about the best camera settings for summer landscape photography, but in truth, it really depends on what you are trying to achieve and what you want to emphasize in your scene.

As a general rule, an aperture of around f/8 to f/16 will help create more depth in an image and keep your entire scene sharp. If you want to keep parts of the frame out of focus, an aperture of, say, f/4-f/5.6 is the way to go. And a low ISO will give a sharper image (such as ISO 100-400).

As for the shutter speed: If you’re shooting handheld, stick to 1/50s or above. Of course, a sturdy tripod will let you go much lower, and you can create all sorts of interesting artistic effects, such as motion blur in waterfalls.

vibrant green trees and hills summer landscape photography

Summer landscape photography tips: final words

Although the high sun can be harsh during the summer, wildflowers such as poppies and lavender can bring color and freshness, plus you have other subjects such as hedges, trees, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and woodlands to add interest to your scenes.

It’s important to remember that landscape shooting should be enjoyed, so have fun with your summer landscape photography and appreciate being out in nature.

With these tips in mind, go and explore the landscape near you. See what you can capture!

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for beautiful summer landscape photos? Do you have any summer images you’re proud of? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

The post 10 Summer Landscape Photography Tips (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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Aperture in Photography: A Beginner’s Guide (+ Examples)

06 Jul

The post Aperture in Photography: A Beginner’s Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

What is aperture in photography? How does it work? And how can you use it to capture photos like the pros?

Aperture is an essential camera setting; in my opinion, it’s where the magic happens in photography. So in this article, I’m going to take you through all the ins and outs of aperture, including:

What aperture actually is (in simple, easy-to-understand terms)
How you can use aperture to capture artistic images
How to choose the perfect aperture for landscape photography, portrait photography, and more
Plenty of other tips and tricks!

If you can master aperture, then you’ll gain a huge amount of creative control over your photography.

Ready to take your photos to the next level?

Let’s dive right in, starting with the most important question of all:

What is aperture?

Aperture is the opening in the camera lens. A larger hole allows more light to hit the sensor, lightening your photos. A smaller hole allows less light to hit the sensor, darkening your photos.

And by adjusting the aperture setting on your camera, you can adjust the size of the aperture (and, in turn, affect a photo’s brightness).

the lens aperture — The aperture is that (bladed) hole inside your lens!

Aperture and f-stops

Aperture is measured in terms of f-stops, also known as f-numbers. Like this: f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/22, etc.

As shown in the diagram below, the smaller the f-number, the larger the aperture hole:

Aperture Diagram - f-stops — As the f-number increases, the aperture size decreases.

Now, each full stop corresponds to a halving of aperture size. So when you go from f/2.8 to f/4, you cut the aperture in half. And when you go from f/4 to f/5.6, you cut the aperture in half again.

(Of course, to double the aperture size, you just go in the reverse direction: from f/5.6 to f/4, and from f/4 to f/2.8.)

So f/2.8 is a much larger aperture than f/22. And f/11 is a much smaller aperture than f/4.

Does that make sense? It can be confusing at first, especially because large aperture sizes correspond to smaller f-stop numbers and vice versa. But stick with it, and it’ll become second nature.

How does aperture affect your photos?

At this point in the article, you should know what aperture is: a hole in the lens that increases and decreases depending on your camera settings (i.e., your f-stop value).

But what does aperture actually do? How does it affect your photos?

In the next two sections, I’ll discuss the primary effects of aperture:

Exposure
Depth of field

Aperture and exposure

As you may already know, exposure refers to the brightness of a photo.

In general, the goal is to end up with a photo that’s not too dark and not too bright; instead, you want a shot that’s just right, one with lots of detail.

So where does aperture come into play?

Aperture is one of the three key variables that affect your exposure. (The other two variables are shutter speed and ISO.)

Remember what I said above? By widening the aperture, you let in more light, which brightens your image. And by narrowing the aperture, you let in less light, which darkens your image.

So if you’re photographing a beautiful sunset and your photos keep turning out too bright, you can always narrow the aperture to darken down the image. (In fact, using a narrow aperture is often a good idea when shooting sunsets!)

sunset with narrow aperture — A sunset scene like this will often benefit from a narrow aperture.

And if you’re photographing a forest and your photos keep turning out dark and shadowy, you can always widen the aperture to brighten up the image. (As you might expect, this is a standard low-light photography practice.)

forest scene — If you’re photographing a subject in the shade, a wider aperture will brighten things up.

Of course, aperture isn’t the only variable that affects exposure. If you want to brighten a photo, you can also lower the shutter speed or boost the ISO. And if you want to darken a photo, you can raise the shutter speed or drop the ISO.

In terms of exposure, widening your aperture by a full stop has the exact same effect as lowering your shutter speed by a full stop or boosting your ISO by a full stop. A key consequence of this: different exposure variables can cancel each other out. Increase your ISO by a stop while decreasing your aperture by a stop, and you’ll end up with an identical exposure.

The point here is that, while aperture does determine exposure, you can’t think about it in isolation. Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO work together to give you a well-exposed (or poorly exposed) image.

Aperture and depth of field

Aperture also affects the depth of field in your photos.

What exactly does that mean? Well, depth of field (DOF) is the amount of your shot that is in focus. So a photo with a large depth of field will have most of the image in focus, like this:

Do you see how sharpness stretches from the foreground to the background? That’s thanks to the large depth of field.

A photo with a small depth of field, on the other hand, will have only a sliver in focus, like this:

As you can see, the effect is pretty artistic; you get a sharp subject but a blurry background. Neat, right? Because a blurry background helps the subject to stand out, this is an effect you’ll often see in portrait photography.

As for aperture, the wider the aperture (and the smaller the f-number!), the shallower the depth of field.

So an image with an f/2.8 aperture will have very little in focus:

And an image with an f/16 aperture will have all of the scene in focus:

Got it? If you’re still struggling to understand – and if you are, don’t be embarrassed! – let me illustrate using two pictures I took in my garden:

Side by side aperture depth of field example

The first picture was taken with an aperture of f/22, while the second picture was shot at f/2.8. The difference is obvious, right? The f/22 picture has both the flower and the bud in focus and you’re able to make out the fence and leaves in the background. Whereas the f/2.8 shot has the left flower in focus, but the right flower is less in focus and the background is completely blurry.

That’s all thanks to aperture, which controls the depth of field.

4 simple aperture examples

Here are a handful of additional aperture examples to help you wrap your head around its effects – in particular, how aperture affects the depth of field.

First, take a look at this landscape shot. It was captured with a narrow aperture, which resulted in a deep depth of field and sharpness throughout:

arches national park deep depth of field

Now take a look at this street photo, which was taken with a wide aperture; it has a shallow depth of field:

shallow depth of field (wide aperture) street photo

And here’s a third example, which has a midrange depth of field. The entire photo isn’t sharp, but the main subject plus some of the surrounding area look crisp:

midrange depth of field person walking down the street

Finally, here’s one more example with an ultra-wide aperture for an ultra-shallow depth of field:

What’s important to know is that the aperture offers you creative control as a photographer. Want to create a blurry background? Pick a wide aperture. Want to keep your shot sharp throughout? Pick a narrow aperture.

Of course, you also have to remember the effect of aperture on exposure, which is what makes things a bit more complex (but a lot more fun!).

Adjusting the aperture on your camera

Now that you’ve made it this far, you might be wondering:

How can you actually change the aperture on your camera? What do you have to do?

Fortunately, adjusting the aperture is easy. You just set your camera’s shooting mode to Manual or Aperture Priority. Then rotate the relevant camera dial to change the f-number. (The specific dial will depend on your camera model; if you’re struggling, consult your manual.)

Which aperture is best?

When photographers first learn about aperture, this is a question that crops up constantly.

But as you’ve hopefully gleaned from the sections above, there is no single best aperture that you can use all the time. Sometimes you’ll want a deep depth of field or you’ll want to darken down a too-bright shot, in which case you’ll need to use a narrow aperture. Other times you’ll want a shallow depth of field or you’ll want to brighten up a too-dark shot, in which case you’ll need to use a wide aperture.

That said…

There are apertures that get used consistently in certain genres. I’ll cover them briefly below, starting with:

The best landscape photography aperture

Landscape photographers gravitate toward small aperture settings, such as f/8, f/11, and even f/16.

Why?

When you’re shooting a sweeping photo of the land, sea, or sky, you often want to keep the whole shot sharp. That way, the viewer can appreciate every little detail of your majestic scene.

mountain landscape — Landscape photos like this one generally require a narrow aperture.

Plus, a deep depth of field makes the shot feel more real, like the viewer could physically step into the scene.

The best portrait photography aperture

In portrait photography, it can be handy to have your subject perfectly in focus but the background nice and blurry. That way, your main subject stands out and the background doesn’t become a distraction.

In other words, use a large aperture to ensure a shallow depth of field.

It’s a trick used by family portrait photographers, headshot photographers, fashion photographers, and more.

The best macro photography aperture

Macro (i.e., close-up) photographers tend to disagree over aperture.

Some macro photographers use a very narrow aperture because depth of field gets shallower at high magnifications. And by using a narrow aperture, a macro photographer can ensure that their entire subject is in focus, even if the background is blurred.

bee with a narrow aperture — This macro photo was shot at f/13; at such high magnifications, keeping an entire insect in focus is tough.

Whereas other macro photographers embrace a shallow depth of field. They use a very wide aperture for a soft-focus effect.

dandelion seed head with a wide aperture — A soft-focus effect looks great in macro photography.

Which is the way to go? That depends on your preferences! Both approaches work well, and there are plenty of professionals using each technique, so don’t stress about it too much.

Aperture in photography: final words

Hopefully, you now have a good understanding of aperture in photography and how you can use it to gain creative control over your photos.

But if you’re still a little confused, that’s okay. Grab your camera and do some experimenting. Find a subject – an apple works great! – and shoot it with different apertures. Watch as the depth of field changes.

Pretty soon, it’ll click. And your photos will (genuinely!) never be the same again.

The post Aperture in Photography: A Beginner’s Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions)

27 Apr

The post 15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

In this article, we share 15 rule of thirds examples – so you can see this helpful compositional rule in action.

If you’ve been struggling to understand the rule of thirds, or if you’re simply looking for rule of thirds inspiration, you’ve come to the right place.

Let’s get started!

1. Focus

The rule of thirds was designed to simplify artistic composition. The rule suggests that you break down scenes into nine equal parts separated by two evenly spaced horizontal and vertical lines, like this:

Rule of thirds examples - a macro photograph of a fern in black and white — The grid overlay allows you to easily visualize the rule of thirds.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.5 | 1/80s | ISO 100

Important compositional elements can then be positioned along the lines of the grid, in the off-center rectangles, or at the grid’s intersections.

In this photograph of a native fern (above), the sharpest point aligns with the top-left intersection of the rule of thirds grid. This composition generates more interest and depth than a centered subject, engaging the viewer and guiding the eye.

2. Lines

people with rope rule of thirds example — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/160s | ISO 125

In this street scene, the majority of the subjects are positioned in off-center rectangles. Additionally, the two white road lines roughly align with the two horizontal gridlines. This distribution of subjects activates the edges of the photograph, adding a sense of expansion and narrative.

3. Pattern

rule of thirds example pattern in window — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/100 | ISO 250

The pattern in this decorative window suggests an overall uniformity. However, the clearest pattern elements are only visible in the upper-left corner of the rule of thirds grid.

This invites the viewer’s eye to explore the various intricate perspectives that make up the scene.

4. Insects

Rule of thirds example - a bee on a flower — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/4.5 | 1/1000s | ISO 400

Here’s a fun rule of thirds example with an insect!

Insects can be tricky to photograph, but applying the rule of thirds can help create a more dynamic composition. If you compose with an insect off-center, you’ll capture a more natural image that alludes to the movement and life of a living creature.

5. Motion

Rule of thirds examples - a Boeing 737 on approach to land at Sydney International Airport — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/16 | 1/400s | ISO 200

One of the main reasons for observing the rule of thirds is to discourage photographers from placing a subject at the center of a photograph. With the help of the rule of thirds, you can create more engaging interactions between the image and the viewer.

We know the standard trajectory of an aircraft. But in the example above, by framing the subject off-center, I was able to generate a clear sense of motion.

6. Depth

Rule of thirds example - flowers in black and white — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100

There are many ways to increase the sense of depth in a photograph. By offsetting the sharply focused main subject (i.e., by following the rule of thirds!), you can achieve a sense of spaciousness and three-dimensionality throughout your image.

7. Narrative

car wash window rule of thirds — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/7.1 | 1/100s | ISO 100

A lot is happening in the center of this image. However, the driving figure behind the central feature is positioned off to the left, creating a shadowy clue to the story behind the photograph.

8. It doesn’t have to be perfect

Rule of thirds example - ducks fly ahead of a large storm cloud — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/11 | 1/500s | ISO 100

Despite its name, the rule of thirds is more like a guide than an unbreakable law. In the image above, three ducks make their way across a thunderous cloudscape. However, while one of the ducks is precisely aligned with the right vertical of the grid, the other two ducks are positioned independently on either side.

Nevertheless, the offset position of the ducks counterbalances the weight of the storm clouds, creating a dramatic juxtaposition. It just goes to show that the rule of thirds can be a flexible guide rather than a rigid rule.

9. Directing the eye

rule of thirds flowers — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.2 | 1/800s | ISO 200

In this image, the emphasis is placed squarely on select areas of the flower. By positioning the subject away from the image center, you can draw the viewer’s eye toward the frame’s corners.

10. Weight

grassy landscape — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/7.1 | 1/100s | ISO 100

Every element in a composition has a weight, one that’s based on perceptions and real-life experience.

Darker, denser subject matter feels heavier than lighter, airier subject matter. Using the rule of thirds to group darker or lighter subject matter together in one area of an image can emphasize this weight. In the image above, lighter areas toward the bottom contrast with a dense area of shadow in the top third of the frame.

11. Balance

Rule of thirds examples - a canopy of tree branches and leaves — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/125s | ISO 100

The canopy of leaves creates an engaging pattern, punctuated by the dark branches of trees – the heaviest of which are positioned toward the edges of the image.

With the help of the rule of thirds, this balance of lightness and heaviness creates an interesting and harmonious composition.

12. Less can be more

Rule of thirds examples - a black an white photograph of an empty carpark — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/250s | ISO 100

These rule of thirds examples can be a handy reminder that less is often more. By organizing subjects in accordance with the rule of thirds grid, you can give an image room to generate its own visual momentum.

13. Adding detail

a black and white macro photograph of a white lily. — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/1.8 | 1/640s | ISO 100

This macro image of a lily contains plenty of information around the central area of the composition. However, additional off-center details make the most of the image space, adding a sense of expansive detail to the photograph.

14. Abstraction

Rule of thirds examples - an abstracted image of a leaf — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/1.8 | 1/40s | ISO 320

Even abstract photography can benefit from the rule of thirds. Here, I’ve positioned an out-of-focus leaf so it intersects with the rule of thirds gridline.

15. Space

Rule of thirds examples a grassy field in black and white. — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/160s | ISO 100

When a scene is full of information, incorporating an area of reduced activity can add more depth.

So rather than aligning a subject with the rule of thirds grid, try aligning the grid with an emptier portion of the scene. This allows the viewer to visually digest the image and better grasp the scene’s context and behavior.

Rule of thirds examples: final words

As these 15 rule of thirds examples have demonstrated, having a good grounding in compositional theory can be highly useful!

So while the rule of thirds is more like a guide than a strict rule, use it to help you arrange the various elements of your photos.

Now over to you:

Do you use the rule of thirds in your photography? Share some of your own rule of thirds examples in the comments below!

The post 15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples)

18 Apr

The post 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Want tips for stunning landscape photography? You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I’m going to share 11 easy landscape photography tips – which are guaranteed to get you taking beautiful images, no matter your experience level. I’ve also included plenty of example photos, so you can see the tips in action (and know that they really do work!).

Let’s get started.

1. Maximize your depth of field

In landscape photography, a deep depth of field is almost always the way to go.

In other words:

You want as much of your scene in focus as possible. The simplest way to do this is to choose a small aperture setting (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16). Because the smaller your aperture, the greater the depth of field in your shots.

Do keep in mind that smaller apertures mean less light is hitting your image sensor. So you’ll need to compensate for the narrow aperture either by increasing your ISO or lengthening your shutter speed (or both).

PS: Of course, there are times when you can get some great results with a very shallow depth of field in a landscape setting. It’s just a tricky technique that requires a lot of finesse.

2. Use a tripod

To maximize your depth of field, you’ll be using a small aperture – and you’ll also likely shoot with a long shutter speed.

But unless you’re careful, you’ll end up with an unusably blurry image.

That’s where a tripod comes in handy. You can use it to stabilize your camera and keep your photos tack sharp for 1-second, 5-second, and even 30-second long exposures.

In fact, even if you can shoot at a fast shutter speed, a tripod can still be beneficial. It’ll force you to slow down and consider your composition more carefully.

Also, to prevent camera shake from pressing the shutter button, consider a remote shutter release.

3. Look for a focal point

Pretty much every shot needs some sort of focal point, and landscape photography is no different.

In fact, a landscape photograph without a focal point ends up looking rather empty. And it’ll leave your viewer’s eye wandering through the image with nowhere to rest.

Focal points can take many forms in landscape photos. They can range from a building or a structure (such as in the photo above) to an eye-catching tree, a boulder or rock formation, a silhouette, or something else entirely.

Also, think not only about what the focal point is, but where you should position it within the frame. The rule of thirds can be useful here.

4. Think foregrounds

Here’s one key tip that can make your landscape shots stand out:

Think carefully about the foreground of your composition…

…and include clear points of interest.

When you do this, you give those viewing the shot a path into the image. And you create a sense of depth, which is always a nice bonus.

5. Consider the sky

In landscape photography, you should always think about the sky.

Most landscapes will either have a dominant foreground or a dominant sky. And unless you include one or the other, your shot will end up looking boring.

Start by observing the sky. If it’s bland and lifeless, don’t let it dominate your shot; place the horizon in the upper third of the image (though you’ll want to make sure your foreground is interesting).

But if the sky is filled with drama, interesting cloud formations, or colors, then let it shine! Place the horizon in the bottom third of the frame to emphasize the heavens.

(Also, consider enhancing skies, either in post-production or with filters. For example, you can use a polarizing filter to add color and contrast.)

6. Use lines to lead the eye

One of the questions you should always ask yourself as you do landscape photography is:

“How am I leading the eye of those viewing this composition?”

There are a number of ways to lead the eye (and including a clear foreground subject works well). But one of my favorite ways is to provide viewers with lines that lead them into the image (such as the road in the photo above).

Lines give an image depth and scale. Plus, they can offer a point of interest by creating patterns in your shot.

7. Capture movement

When most people think about landscapes, they think of calm, serene, and passive environments. However, landscapes are rarely completely still – and if you can convey this movement, you’ll add drama and mood to your image. You’ll also create a point of interest.

But how can you convey movement in a landscape?

You can focus on wind in the trees, waves on a beach, water flowing over a waterfall, birds flying overhead, moving clouds, etc. Capturing this movement generally requires a longer shutter speed (sometimes a shutter speed of many seconds!).

Of course, a slow shutter speed means more light hitting your sensor, so you’ll either need a narrow aperture or an ND filter. You might also choose to shoot at the start or the end of the day when there is less light.

8. Work with the weather

A scene can change dramatically depending upon the weather, so choosing the right time to shoot is of major importance.

Many beginner photographers see a sunny day and think that it’s the best time to go out with their camera. However, an overcast day that is threatening rain might present you with a much better opportunity – you can create an image with real mood and ominous undertones.

Look for storms, wind, mist, dramatic clouds, sun shining through dark skies, rainbows, sunsets and sunrises, etc. And work with these variations in the weather rather than just waiting for the next sunny, blue sky.

9. Photograph during the golden hours

landscape photography tips snow at golden hour

I chatted with a landscape photographer recently who told me that he never shoots during the day. His only shooting times are around dawn and dusk because that’s when the light is best, and that’s when the landscape comes alive.

These golden hours, as they’re often called, offer great landscape photography for a number of reasons.

For one, you get gorgeous golden light. I also love the angle of the low sun; it creates interesting patterns, dimensions, and textures, all of which can enhance a landscape photo.

10. Think about horizons

landscape photography tips winding mountain road

This is an old tip but a good one. Before you take a landscape shot, always consider the horizon on two fronts:

Is it straight? While you can always straighten images later in post-production, it’s easier if you get it right in-camera.
Where is the horizon positioned in the frame? A natural spot for the horizon is along one of the rule of thirds gridlines rather than in the middle of the frame. Of course, rules are meant to be broken – but I find that, unless you’re photographing a very striking scene, the rule of thirds usually works here.

11. Change your point of view

You drive up to the scenic lookout, get out of the car, grab your camera, turn it on, walk up to the barrier, raise the camera to your eye, rotate left and right a little, zoom a little, then take your shot – before getting back in the car and driving to the next scenic lookout.

We’ve all done it. However, this process doesn’t generally lead to the “wow” shot that many of us are looking for.

Instead, take a little more time with your landscape photos. Find a more interesting point of view.

You might start by finding a different spot to shoot from than the scenic lookout.

You can also look for new angles; this could mean getting down onto the ground to shoot from below, or heading up high to gain a nice vantage point.

Explore the environment and experiment with different viewpoints. You might find something truly unique!

Landscape photography tips: conclusion

landscape photography tips waterfall in Iceland

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to capture some stunning landscape photography!

So grab your camera, head out, and find a subject to shoot.

It’ll be a lot of fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these landscape photography tips are you going to try first? And do you have any landscape photo tips of your own? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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11 Tips for Posing People With Confidence (+ Examples)

11 Apr

The post 11 Tips for Posing People With Confidence (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

How can you pose people in photography with amazing results?

In this article, you’ll discover 11 simple tips to start people posing like a pro (plus plenty of example images).

So if you’re ready to take your portrait photography to the next level, then let’s get started!

(Also, if you’re looking for posing inspiration, check out our handy Portrait Posing Guide, which offers a whopping 67 sample portrait poses.)

Before the shoot

Here are some points to think about before you even pick up your camera:

1. What kind of shoot is it?

The posing requirements for a family portrait shoot are very different than the requirements for a fashion shoot.

So don’t think about posing until you’ve determined the type of shoot you’re doing!

2. Look for inspiration online

Chances are that you have a few photographers you follow on websites like Flickr and 500px. You’ll find some good poses in their portfolios.

So download your favorite poses to your smartphone (or use Pinterest to create a mood board; I cover this in more detail in my article, How to Plan the Perfect Portrait Shoot). That way, you have something you can show to your model.

Don’t try and commit the poses to memory – you will forget them under pressure!

3. Match the pose to your model

This is important.

You’ll see some wonderful poses in fashion magazines. But many of them need a professional model to pull them off.

And your model may not be able to do those – so tailor the pose to your model (not the other way around!).

people posing photography woman on stairs

4. Buy the Posing App

The Posing App gives you over 300 poses that you can access on your smartphone.

people posing the posing app — Screenshots from the Posing App. The line drawings are easy to understand and follow.

The best way to use the app is to select five to ten poses and add them to your favorites. Then you can show them to your model so they know what you want them to do.

(In fact, the author of the app has written several articles about posing for Digital Photography School you will find useful!)

During the shoot

No matter how experienced or inexperienced your model is, here are some tips to help you capture the perfect pose during the shoot:

5. Build rapport

This is essential. If your model likes you and sees what you are trying to achieve, they will work harder.

Talk to your model about things they like; this will help produce more life in their eyes and get better expressions, including natural smiles. And they’ll be more relaxed.

But if your model is tense, you are going to struggle to get natural-looking portraits. In that case, take the pressure off the model and bring it back on yourself. Assure them that if the photos don’t work out, it’s your fault, not theirs. Build their confidence.

6. Look for natural expressions

As you talk to your model, you will notice natural expressions and mannerisms that you can capture.

Don’t be afraid to say “Hold that pose!” or “Do that again.”

7. Adapt poses

When you suggest a pose to your model – such as a pose used in another photo or a pose from the Posing App – treat it as a starting point. Then adapt it to suit the model.

In other words: If your model looks unnatural in a certain pose, then change it! Adjust each pose to suit your model’s body and clothes.

woman posing against a wall — The pose on the left is one I found in the Posing App. For the second portrait, I asked my model to drop her left arm so I couldn’t see it. Don’t be afraid to tweak poses; sometimes a small change makes a big difference.

8. Simplify

Keep everything as simple as possible. This applies to composition, as well as the clothes and jewelry your model is wearing.

If your model has too much jewelry, ask them to remove some. It’ll improve the composition.

If you’re struggling to find a good full-length pose, move in closer and shoot from the waist up, or do a head-and-shoulders portrait. The background will go more out of focus, and there will be less of the model in the photo (i.e., the shot will be simplified!).

woman posing simply — Simplification in action. The closer you crop, the easier it is to pose your model. This is a good technique to use if you are struggling to make a certain pose work.

9. Pay attention to detail

Pay special attention to hands, which often look better turned sideways. Look at photos where the model’s hands look elegant or are nicely posed, and ask your model to do the same.

people posing photography man against wall

Check your model’s hair to make sure stray strands aren’t blowing across their face or eyes. Look at their clothes to make sure they aren’t wrinkled or creased in a strange way.

10. Find something for your model to lean on

This makes it much easier to create a natural-looking pose.

two woman posing with walls — Two different ways to use a wall to give a model something to do. The Posing App has lots of poses for leaning.

11. Use props

If the model has a prop to hold or otherwise interact with, it gives them something to do.

model with a hoop — The model in this photo was into hooping. Using the hoop as a prop gave her something to hold and added interest to the portrait.

And if they’re having fun with the props, you’re more likely to get a great expression!

woman with a horse people posing — I suggested the model bring her horses along to the shoot. The horses are a natural prop, and her interaction with them led to photos like this one.

Posing people with confidence: conclusion

There you have it:

11 easy tips for posing people!

So the next time you’re photographing a person, make sure to try some of these tips out!

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for our readers about people posing? What has worked for you? Share your experiences, tips, and images in the comments below.

The post 11 Tips for Posing People With Confidence (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

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Aesthetic Photography: Tips, Ideas and Examples

09 Apr

These days we are bombarded by visual content. We see images everywhere from giant billboards on the side of the road to handy little Instagram-sized squares in the palms of our hands. Chances are, every once in a while you see a photo that stops your mindless scrolling in its tracks. You are captivated by what you see and feel Continue Reading
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How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)

04 Apr

The post How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Are you looking to capture stunning environmental portraits?

You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I’m going to share everything you need to know about environmental portrait photography.

And by the time you’re finished, you’ll be ready to create some beautiful portraits of your own!

Let’s get started.

What is an environmental portrait?

An environmental portrait is a photo taken of a person in a place that says something about who they are. It is often a place where they work, rest, or play.

environmental portrait woman behind counter

Why do I prefer environmental portraits?

Environmental portrait photography:

gives context to the subject you’re photographing
adds additional points of interest to compositions (though this is something you need to watch, as you don’t want to distract from your subject too much)
helps the subject relax
often gives the viewer real insight into the personality and lifestyle of your subject

Environmental portraits sit somewhere between the purposely posed shots of a studio portrait (environmental portraits are posed and are unmistakably portraits) and candid shots, which capture people almost incidentally as they go about their daily lives.

Now let’s turn our attention to some how-to tips for stunning environmental portraits:

Tips for beautiful environmental portrait photography

Capturing gorgeous environmental portraits can seem tough.

But there are actually a few simple ways to enhance your portrait photos, starting with:

Spend time getting to know your subject

Before you select a location and start shooting, spend some time getting to know your subject.

Find out where they spend their time, what the rhythm of their life is like, and how they behave.

This will not only help you find appropriate locations but will also help you get a feel for the style of shots that might be appropriate for the session.

Plus, you’ll begin the process of helping your subject relax! If you can, you might even want to accompany your subject to some possible locations; that way, you can see both whether the location suits them, as well as how they behave and interact there.

Choose the right location

Sometimes a location chooses you – but on other occasions, you need to be quite deliberate and purposeful when making your choice. It can take a lot of searching.

You ideally want to find a location that:

says something about your subject. After all, that’s what this style of photography is all about.
adds interest to the shot. As I’ve written in previous tutorials, every element in an image can add or detract from the overall look. The environment in which you place your subject needs to provide context and interest without overwhelming the composition.
doesn’t dominate the shot. Sometimes the location can dominate the image so much that it distracts your viewer from your main focal point (i.e., the subject). So try to avoid cluttered backgrounds (and foregrounds) and colors that are too bright, etc. Keep in mind that you might be able to remove the distractions with clever cropping, depth of field, and subject placement.

Use props naturally

man with computer environmental portrait

Props can make or break an environmental portrait.

If your props are subtle and naturally fit in the environment, then they can be very appropriate and add to the image nicely.

But you’ll want to avoid any props that don’t quite fit or that distract the viewer.

The same goes for the clothes that your subject wears. Try to be true to the context without getting too outlandish.

Think about posing your subject

environmental portrait of woman painting

What sets an environmental portrait apart from a candid portrait is that you pose your subject.

(In truth, it’s a fine line between candid portraits and environmental portraits; you might end up doing a bit of both in any given shoot.)

Don’t be afraid to direct your subject to sit, stand, or act in a way that fits the environment. Some of the poses might seem slightly unnatural and dramatic, but it’s often these purposely posed shots that are more interesting and give a sense of style to your photography.

The expression on the face of your subject is also very important in environmental photography, and you should consider how it fits with the overall scene.

For example, if you’re shooting in a formal environment, it may not be appropriate to photograph your subject with a big, cheesy smile; you might prefer a more somber or serious look.

Ultimately, just mix it up to see what does and doesn’t work!

Deliberately choose your camera settings (especially your aperture!)

There is no right or wrong way to set up your camera for an environmental portrait. It will depend completely upon the effect you’re after and the shooting scenario.

You might find that shooting at a smaller aperture (i.e., a larger f-number) will be appropriate as it’ll help keep the foreground and background in focus.

I generally shoot environmental portraits with a wider focal length to give the environment prominence in the shot.

Of course, that doesn’t mean you can’t shoot with a longer lens or with a large aperture and shallow depth of field. In the end, anything goes – plus, you’ll probably want to mix up your shots a little.

How to photograph environmental portraits: conclusion

Environmental portrait photography is a great way to create unique and beautiful images.

So the next time you’re doing portrait photography, try applying some of these tips.

You’ll love the results!

Now over to you:

Have you done any environmental portrait photography? What tips would you give other readers? Feel free to share your tips (and images!) in the comments below.

environmental portrait man with painting

The post How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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The Rule of Space in Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Examples)

31 Mar

The post The Rule of Space in Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

In this article, I’m going to answer all your questions about the rule of space in photography:

What it is. How it works. And how you can use it for amazing results.

Specifically, by applying the rule of space to photography, you can embrace the quieter moments in visual imagery – and you can amplify the impact of your subject by balancing positive and negative compositional elements.

Let’s dive right in.

A photograph of a softly focused fly demonstrating the rule of space in photography — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2 | 1/8000s | ISO 500

What is the rule of space in photography?

The rule of space in photography is a method of incorporating visual absence to give a subject room to breathe.

Although the rule of space is more like a guide than a rigid rule, it is a handy compositional device. It’s a great way to add a sense of vastness, depth, and/or motion to a photograph.

Why is the rule of space important?

To understand the rule of space, we first need to take a brief look at positive and negative space.

Photographers use the terms positive space and negative space to contrast impactful and more subtle areas in a photograph.

Generally, positive space refers to specific subjects that command a viewer’s attention. Negative space, on the other hand, is less visually demanding and provides a frame for the main event in an image.

For example, in the image below, the clouds represent positive space, whereas the sky and dark shadows create the negative space that frames the main subject:

rule of space in photography clouds — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/10 | 1/500s | ISO 100

So where does the rule of space in photography fit in?

In general terms, the rule of space governs the use of negative space within an image. By understanding the nature of the rule of space, a photographer can harness the intent of a subject, as well as add depth and perspective to the image.

The rule of space is important because it aids a photographer in articulating the energy of a photograph – and it guides the viewer’s eye by sculpting key visual events and affording the subject more room to move.

Working with the rule of space: the basics

To work with the rule of space in photography, first consider the behavior of your subject.

Ask yourself: What is the subject doing? Is it moving or stationary? How does it occupy space?

At the same time, visualize what you want to convey in the photograph. Is it movement? Perspective? Depth? Narrative?

The nature and behavior of your subject plus your intent should together determine how you apply the rule of space.

Perspective

One of the main ways the rule of space can impact a photograph is through perspective. Abundant space around a subject can make the subject appear smaller or larger depending on the camera angle.

For example, a subject photographed from a high angle, surrounded with minimal detail, can seem smaller and more immersed in negative space:

a cat in an apartment window rule of space in photography — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/5.6 | 1/200s | ISO 100

Conveying momentum

The rule of space in photography can help you create the impression of movement.

To convey action, the rule suggests that space should be left either in front of or behind the subject (or both).

For example, if a subject is moving across a scene, you can aim to capture both the subject and the negative space surrounding the subject. The extra space conveys the subject’s movement, adding the momentum a tight crop may lack.

airplane flying — Allowing a subject room to move adds momentum.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/10 | 1/640s | ISO 250

Adding depth

The rule of space in photography is not limited to highly active subjects; it works for stationary subject matter, too!

For example, in portraiture, your composition can be governed by pairing the gaze or gesticulations of the subject with negative space. A subject’s gaze naturally directs our attention – we want to see what the subject sees.

But when a gaze is met by negative space, the viewer’s eye will often naturally return to the original source of the gaze. The rule of space provides an organic way of adding depth and directing viewer attention.

You can also use the rule of space with non-human/animal subject matter – based on their movement, perceived gesticulations, and extensions. By following the momentum, composition, or behavior of a non-human subject, you’ll find ideal placements for negative space.

In the example below, I surrounded several blossoms with negative space; this additional room suggests growth and depth. It also highlights the detail in the individual florets.

pink flowers rule of space in photography — Leaving extra room around specific flower heads to articulate their elemental composition is one way to emphasize non-human subjects through the rule of space.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.5 | 1/1250s | ISO 200

Rule of space challenges

The process of applying the rule of space to photographs is not that difficult in itself. However, a tendency to cram each image with as much visual information as possible can get in the way of exploring negative space.

Instead, deliberately and mindfully take a minimalist approach. You can also zoom out or physically take a few steps back from a subject to refocus on the rule of space.

Tips and techniques for working with the rule of space

Here are a few tips for working with the rule of space:

Tip 1: Use other compositional rules, too

Applying the rule of space to your photography doesn’t have to come at the cost of other compositional rules.

In fact, combining compositional tenets with the rule of space in photography can increase the chances of creating a successful photograph.

Compositional rules such as the rule of thirds, leading lines, depth of field, and repetition can all be used in conjunction with the rule of space to create engaging imagery.

lightning striking above a city — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/5 | 30s | ISO 100

Tip 2: Let it breathe

The rule of space is all about giving a subject or a scene room to breathe.

So step back, zoom out, or even try a wider lens; that way, you can add a sense of spaciousness to your photos.

Tip 3: Experiment with different camera settings

Your choice of camera settings can help follow the rule of space more effectively.

For instance, you might use a shallow depth of field to surround a subject with negative space. You could also try using a slow shutter speed and panning your camera while leaving space before or after a subject to amplify movement.

fence with shallow depth of field rule of space in photography — You can amplify perspective with the rule of space in photography.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/5.6 | 1/125s | ISO 200

The rule of space in photography: conclusion

The rule of space aims to create a mindful harmony of positive and negative space.

And by applying this rule, you can emphasize and frame positive subject matter while generating an evocative balance of weight and weightlessness within an image.

So the next time you’re out with your camera, remember the rule of space – and do what you can to apply it in your images!

Now over to you:

Have you been using the rule of space in your photos? How are you going to change your compositions to improve your use of space? Share your thoughts (and photos!) in the comments below.

Rule of space FAQs

What is the rule of space?

In visual art, the rule of space guides your inclusion of negative space within an image.

What is negative space?

Generally, negative space refers to areas in a photograph that are not occupied by the main subject matter. Often, negative space serves as a frame to emphasize the key subjects in an image.

How do photographers use the rule of space in composition?

The rule encourages photographers to make use of negative space. There are many ways to do this. You can focus on coupling subjects with negative space by selecting minimalist backdrops, or you can pair the gaze of a portrait subject with additional negative space.

Who are some photographers that use the rule of space?

There are countless photographers who make use of the rule of space. For example, photographers Martin Parr and Helen Levitt made striking use of the rule, as well as Hiroshi Sugimoto, Michael Kenna, and Eric Kim.

When can I break the rule of space in photography?

Photography is all about developing personal creative instincts and approaches. That’s why compositional rules can be broken. The rule of space in photography is simply a guide – so if an image looks better without extra space, then go with your instincts. And if you aren’t sure, try taking a series of photos with different spatial approaches and analyze the results.

The post The Rule of Space in Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples)

22 Mar

The post Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

If you’re like most photographers, your first “serious” camera came with a kit lens, probably a standard, 18-55mm option.

But is a kit lens worth keeping? Is it capable of taking great images? Or should you immediately upgrade to a more expensive option?

That’s what I aim to address in this article.

I’m going to show how a kit lens, despite its shortcomings, can get you stunning images (and I give plenty of examples along the way!). I’m also going to give you a few quick tips for working with an 18-55mm lens.

Let’s dive right in.

Is a kit lens bad for photography?

Most kit lenses are, by nature, inexpensive (a polite way of saying cheap).

And that’s understandable – manufacturers are in competition with one another and they keep the prices of their camera bundles down by creating inexpensive kit lenses. A kit lens will get you started, and you can buy other, better-quality lenses when you outgrow it.

But if kit lenses are cheap, does that mean you should go out and buy a better lens straight away?

No, it doesn’t. No matter what anyone says, or how much you lust after expensive glass, your kit lens is a great way to get started with serious photography. If you’re in a position where you can’t afford to buy another lens, or you simply just don’t know which lens to buy, don’t sweat it. You’ll be surprised by what you can do with your kit lens once you know how to get the best out of it.

Don’t believe me?

Then check out this blog post by Jingna Zhang – a professional fashion and editorial photographer. She’s good, and she got her start with an EOS 350D and the 18-55mm kit lens that came with it. The quality of images she created with that camera and kit lens is very high. Take a look, and you’ll see what I mean.

Her article resonated with me because I got started with the same camera and lens combination. I didn’t know what lenses to buy for my camera, so I decided to stick with a kit lens and took it with me on a trip to South America.

I soon realized the lens wasn’t a great one; thankfully, it has been discontinued, and Canon sells a much better kit lens with its entry-level cameras.

However, despite the relatively poor image quality, some of the photos I took with that lens were good enough for publication. I illustrated my first published article, a piece in Practical Photography, with photos taken using the kit lens:

Kit lens better than you think magazines

And several more of the photos were published in other photography magazines. My Canon 18-55mm wasn’t the world’s best lens, but it was good enough to get me started (and the Practical Photography article was a turning point for me because it helped me believe I could make it as a writer).

Getting the best out of your kit lens

So how do you get the best out of a kit lens? My approach is to think of it as two lenses in one.

If you have a kit lens that ranges from 18mm to 55mm (the standard kit lens focal length), then treat it as an 18mm lens and a 55mm lens in one body.

The 18mm is a moderate wide-angle lens that is great for landscapes, architecture, and environmental portraiture. The 55mm end makes for a short telephoto lens, ideal for compressing perspective when taking portraits or closing in on small details.

That doesn’t mean you can’t use the middle focal lengths, and there are times when you can’t avoid them. But by sticking with the short and long end of the lens, you will learn how those focal lengths behave.

After all, lenses are the “eye” of your camera system, and your photos will improve as you learn the characteristics of each focal length.

Some kit lenses also have another useful feature: image stabilization.

(Note that image stabilization is Canon’s term, while Nikon calls this vibration reduction.)

Image stabilization lets you take photos at slower shutter speeds than would otherwise be possible. So theoretically, you could hand-hold the camera, set the focal length of the lens to 18mm, drop the shutter speed, and take a photo without camera shake – even at 1/4s or even 1/2s.

That’s awesome for low-light shooting, and it lets you explore the creative potential of taking photos in the evening or at night.

Your kit lens as wide-angle glass (18mm)

The photos below were taken at the 18mm end of my kit lens.

You can see how I got in close to the subject, sometimes even tilting the lens backward to take advantage of the effect of the converging verticals.

Your kit lens as short telephoto glass (55mm)

These photos were all taken at the 55mm end of my kit lens.

They have a completely different quality, thanks to the compressed perspective and limited depth of field.

Kit lens better than you think mailboxes

Kit lens better than you think child portrait

Kit lens better than you think statue close up

Shortcomings of kit lenses

As you now know, your kit lens is probably a better lens than you originally thought.

That said, kit lenses aren’t incredible, and they do have several shortcomings. At some point, you will bump up against these limitations.

(Running into limitations is not a bad thing. It simply indicates that you’re at the stage where a different lens will help you take better photos.)

These are the main drawbacks of kit lenses:

Limited focal length: You may find that even the 18mm end of your kit lens is not wide enough for the photos you’re after. In that case, it’s time to start thinking about buying a new (even wider) wide-angle lens.

On the other hand, if you find that the 55mm end doesn’t get you as close as you would like to your subject, then you need a telephoto lens. This may happen if you’re interested in photographing wildlife or sports, for example.

Slow autofocus: The autofocus on kit lenses tends to be slower and noisier than autofocus on more expensive lenses. If the autofocus performance of your kit lens is holding you back, it may be time to upgrade.

Narrow maximum aperture: Kit lenses are slow lenses. In other words, they don’t have a wide maximum aperture. The reason is simple: the wider the maximum aperture, the larger the lens body and lens elements required, which pushes up manufacturing costs. So kit lenses are made with relatively small maximum apertures to keep the price down.

The maximum aperture at the 55mm end of most kit lenses is around f/5.6. If this isn’t wide enough, you can buy a zoom that covers the same focal length with a maximum aperture of f/4 or f/2.8, or a 50mm prime lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 or wider. The wider apertures on these lenses will help you take photos in low light or use a shallow depth of field creatively.

Subpar build quality: Kit lenses tend to be pretty plasticky, so if you often knock your camera around or shoot in bad weather, then you may need a better-built option. The top lenses in each manufacturer’s range have metal bodies, metal mounts, and weatherproofing.

Why your kit lens is better than you think: conclusion

Kit lenses have a bad reputation, but they’re actually pretty great for beginner photographers.

So don’t feel you need to upgrade the moment you purchase a camera. Recognize that your kit lens can take stunning photos – as long as you know how to use it well!

And just have fun playing with your kit lens and experimenting.

Now over to you:

Do you use a kit lens? If so, what do you think of it? Are you pleased with it? Do you plan to upgrade? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below!

The post Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

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