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Posts Tagged ‘Epic’

This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $100 (96% Off!)

16 Oct

The post This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $ 100 (96% Off!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

5daydeal epic photography bundle (96% off)

What’s the fastest way to improve your photography?

There’s a quick method to enhance your photos and level up your skills, and it’s pretty simple, too: learn from the masters. In other words, discover the secrets, tricks, and techniques already developed by the best of the best, and apply them all in your own shooting.

So how do you access these photography masters? How do you learn their secrets? That’s where online courses come in handy. These days, you can find dozens of well-taught, helpful courses, created by truly outstanding photographers from all around the world. They illustrate the most efficient composition guidelines, effective post-processing techniques, and so much more. 

Unfortunately, online courses can be expensive. This stops plenty of photographers, especially beginners, from ever discovering the information that could instantly take their photos to the next level.

Which is why the 5DayDeal is one of those once-in-a-blue-moon, can’t-miss-out offers that you should absolutely check out, especially if you’re serious about improving your work.

What is the 5DayDeal?

The 5DayDeal is a limited-time bundle, which includes literally dozens of courses from world-class photographers, along with plenty of additional photography-enhancing items (including Photoshop actions, books, and packages/software).

Normally, the 5DayDeal resources would cost over $ 2200 USD.

But for five days only, you can grab them for $ 89 USD, at a whopping 96% off.

Landscape Photography Secrets by Tim Shields

You can click here to take a closer look at the bundle. Highlights include:

  • Landscape Photography Secrets (value: $ 297), a six-class set covering essential landscape topics such as settings, composition, and post-processing, taught by acclaimed landscape photographer Tim Shields
  • Luminar AI Magic (value: $ 99), a comprehensive class that covers the ins and outs of Skylum’s popular editing software – and how to use it for jaw-dropping results
  • Simple & Intermediate Object Removal in Photoshop (value: $ 60), which will turn you into an object-removal wizard, capable of ridding your images of telephone poles, distracting people, and even unwanted cars
  • Painterly Portraits Photography Course (value: $ 227), which offers the secrets to professional-quality portraits, both in the field and in the editing room
  • Nature Love Presets (value: $ 69), a set of 18 Lightroom presets designed to offer quick and efficient yet high-quality edits

And that’s just a small sample of the 5DayDeal items. Photographers, this bundle genuinely is the best way to level up your work; get it, take the time to go through each item, and by the time you’re done, your work will be unrecognizable.

Plus, 10% of the profits go to charity, so it’s really a win all around.

You can check out the 5DayDeal bundle and see all the courses, packages, and more on the 5DayDeal website.

When does the 5DayDeal end?

The 5DayDeal really does last for just five days, and you will never see the exact same deal ever again (the 5DayDeal creators refer to this as a “once-in-eternity sale”).

Specifically, the deal will disappear on October 19th, 2021 (next Tuesday!) at 12 PM PST. So don’t wait; get the bundle while you still can!

Check it out here.

The post This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $ 100 (96% Off!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Weekly Photography Challenge – Epic Skies

06 Jun

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Epic Skies appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

This week’s weekly photography challenge – EPIC SKIES!

Dramatic cloudy sky by Caz Nowaczyk
Dramatic cloudy sky by Caz Nowaczyk

Capture some epic skies, either in a close up of dramatic clouds or a dramatic sky in a landscape vista. It could be a stormy sky, the northern lights, a dramatic sunset or sunrise, or the milky way. You get the idea!

Play with post-processing too, if you like.

The choice is yours! I look forward to seeing what you share ?

Weekly Photography Challenge – Epic Skies
Image by © Christian Hoiberg
Dramatic cloudy sky by Caz Nowaczyk
© Caz Nowaczyk
Weekly Photography Challenge – Epic Skies
Northern Lights by © Ian Johnson

Check out some of the articles below that give you tips on this week’s challenge.

Tips for photographing EPIC SKIES

6 Tips for Capturing Dramatic Skies in your Landscape Photography

3 Simple Steps to Make Your Skies Pop in Lightroom

Tips and Tricks for Night Photography of the Starry Sky

7 Tips to Improve Your Skyline Photos

How to Use a 10 Stop Neutral Density Filter to add Drama to the Sky

Beginners Tips for Night Sky and Star Photography

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSEpicSkies to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Epic Skies appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Top Tips to Capture Epic Adventure Photography

15 Dec

The post Top Tips to Capture Epic Adventure Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

tips-epic-adventure-photography

Adventure photography is one of the most exciting genres of photography and an opportunity to uncover unexpected places. Capturing epic adventure photography can be described as the art of photographing adventures, typically in the outdoors. It can involve exploring amazing places and experiencing new things, all whilst capturing the accomplishment with your camera.

Whatever the place or experience, adventure is about much more than scaling a famous mountain, such as Everest, and covers the world beyond outdoor pursuits. Whether it is cruising down the Nile, drinking beer or eating favorite dishes with the locals, or appreciating street art within an inner-city, it’s all a personal adventure. Here are some top tips for capturing these exploits of adventure.

1. Go on an epic photography adventure

epic adventure photography 01

Cappadocia, Turkey

One of the best things you can do to shoot epic adventure photography is to go on an adventure. Grab your camera and get outdoors. Go and explore a familiar or unfamiliar location. You may have a passion for mountains, epic wild scenery, or even rivers or seas, whichever you prefer, get out there and have fun.

Scout out a location and find a great view that you would like to photograph. Be sure to record the adventure and your surroundings.

2. Bring the right gear

It is hugely important to bring the right gear. But, don’t just think about your camera gear.

Depending on whether you are going for a day or several days, pack enough food, water, and warm clothing for your needs, such as a hat, gloves, and extra layers. Then pack more snacks in case you encounter any difficulties and to keep your energy levels up. Looking after your body is essential, so bring a first aid kit too in case of unforeseen emergencies. Be sure to check the weather forecast and plan ahead accordingly. You may need to bring wet weather gear too, such as a waterproof jacket and trousers.

Whatever you decide to take with you, plan ahead and pack lightly. And remember, safety is paramount.

3. Include a person in the frame

Image: Paddleboarding, Lake Bled, Slovenia

Paddleboarding, Lake Bled, Slovenia

One great way to document epic adventure photography is to include a person in the frame. This will help to show the spirit of adventure. Hiking, biking, backpacking, camping, boating, and general exploration are all great activities of adventure. You could illustrate your adventures by including yourself in the shot or someone else doing adventurous activities such as a hiker walking within a landscape, a jogger on a trail, a paddle boarder on a river, or a cyclist on a road or dirt track.

The options for outdoor subjects are endless.

4. Show scale

To help your images stand out, show scale. Include an extra element such as an object or a people (discussed above) to help show their real size compared with the height of mountains in a valley, such as these people on horseback.

epic adventure photography 03

Horse riding, Grand Tetons, Wyoming, USA

For example, the width of a river, or vastness of a plain, will be better understood by the viewer when including a raft or backpacker.

Other interesting subjects you can shoot to show scale include a boat in the sea, a tent on a hilltop, mountain walkers on an adventure, snowboarders or people skiing.

epic adventure photography 04

Trekking in the Himalayas, Nepal

5. Find a unique perspective

There are wonderful adventures to be experienced everywhere around the world. Find a striking and effective composition that shows a unique perspective and interesting side to your adventures.

Image: Kayaking in the Philippines

Kayaking in the Philippines

6. Protect your gear

When you are doing an epic adventure photography trip, make sure you look after your gear. You don’t want to damage your equipment in adverse conditions, so assess your potential environment prior to departure.

Camera protection is critical, so apply common sense when preparing your kit. Put your camera inside a waterproof cover if it is raining. Pack it in a well-cushioned bag if you are climbing over rocks or uneven terrain to prevent damaging your camera if you slip. Also, use a waterproof case or bag when shooting from the water. Freshwater and saltwater are corrosive and will damage your camera if you come into contact with these elements.

Conclusion

Enjoy your time outdoors with your camera and capture some epic adventure photography. Whether you are a solo adventure photographer, or enjoy having a person with you, apply these tips of including people, showing scale, finding a perspective, and taking the right gear and go and take your best ever adventure photos.

We look forward to seeing what you capture. Share your images with us below.

Get more from your travel photography with the e-book, Transcending Travel.

 

The post Top Tips to Capture Epic Adventure Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips

20 Nov

The post Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

capture-epic-photos-outside-the-golden-hour

The golden hour is one of the most magical times of the day for photography with wonderful light at sunrise and sunset. Yet, have you ever challenged yourself to photograph around these times? You can still capture amazing photos outside the golden hour and here are some ways you can achieve this:

Shoot during the Blue Hour

capture-epic-photos-outside-the-golden-hour

The blue hour is a fantastic window of opportunity where you can create some stunning images. It refers to the period of twilight when the sun is well below the horizon, and residual, indirect sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade. The blue hour generally lasts for 20-30 minutes and occurs just after sunset and just before sunrise.

It is important to use a tripod when capturing images in low light. Sharper images will also result from using a tripod by minimizing camera shake when using a slower shutter speed. In terms of the best subjects to photograph during the blue hour, start with cityscapes, roads with street lights, roads with traffic, bridges, fairs, wharves, and marinas.

Include electric lights for dramatic effect and use the extra light to add interest to epic scenes. Most of all, be creative and capture the artificial and natural light together. The warmer tones of illuminated buildings can blend beautifully with the cool blue hues of the sky.

Shoot at night

capture-epic-photos-outside-the-golden-hour

Don’t be in a hurry to put the camera away after the blue hour. There are still more opportunities to take great photos outside the golden hour and blue hour with night photography.

Although the natural light will have faded away, other photographic moments awaken.

Regarding city scenes, the sky will appear darker, and as a result, it can help make other city landmarks and street lights stand out.

Using moonlight can be a brilliant way to capture epic scenes as it paints the landscape or photographing it within a wider frame. Then there is the night sky, which can present wonderfully scenic photos. You can shoot stars, star trails, and even the northern lights.

Combine any of these with the landscape, and they are a recipe for epic images.

Shoot in the midday sun

Outside golden hour 3

Most people tend to avoid photography during the middle of the day, preferring to shoot during the golden hour. Well, challenge yourself to capture photos outside the Golden Hour by shooting at this time of day, and you can be greatly rewarded.

Although the light can indeed be harsh with the midday sun directly overhead, think outside the box. Subjects are well-illuminated, so look for colors that may stand out.

Blue skies can look great with cityscapes. Colorful buildings or flowers can look amazing with a backdrop of a clear blue sky or fluffy white clouds. Also, some cloud cover that reveals patterns of light over a nice landscape scene can look great.

Another option is to shoot the light reflecting indoors. You can head to your local market or capture the interior of a building. Both locations can be great for capturing images at midday.

Shoot when the sun is lower in the sky

Outside golden hour 4

During the winter, daylight is reduced, and we all like to stay in and enjoy the comforts of our home. However, this is a great time to get out and be creative with your camera to capture some awe-inspiring, majestic winter images. At this time, the sun arcs lower in the sky, which is perfect for getting some memorable photos. As this happens throughout the day, you can get some good images at any time.

Watch how the sun stays low and casts long and dramatic shadows and capture this in your images. Use shadows to support your main subject and to give a sense of scale.

Shoot in the morning light

Outside golden hour 5

One of the best times to take photos outside the golden hour is in the morning.

If you shoot after the hour following sunrise when the light is still good, you can get some great images. Whether you find yourself on a trip or in your local area, there is always a morning photography opportunity.

You can photograph landscapes or cityscapes by aiming your camera towards the sun whilst it is still rising. Alternatively, turn around and photograph the gorgeous light painting the land or city behind you.

If you are in a warmer climate, the temperature can be good at this time of day before it can get too hot to be carrying around all your camera equipment. If you like to photograph street scenes and people, head to some of the busier streets as more and more people will be around as the day warms up.

Look for any interesting activity and capture epic scenes of these subjects – they can really be worth the early morning start.

Conclusion

Remember, you can achieve awesome images when shooting at a variety of times outside the golden hour. Choose a time to take your camera out and go and do it!

Do you have a preferred time for taking amazing images besides the golden hour? Share the images you capture with us below.

 

The post Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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How to Find and Photograph Wild Landscapes for Epic Images

20 Oct

The post How to Find and Photograph Wild Landscapes for Epic Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

epic-wild-landscapes-photography

Wild Landscapes can be described as “unspoiled areas of land including hills, mountains, and rivers where wild animals, trees, and plants live or grow in natural surroundings and are not looked after by people.”

Venturing into the wild with your camera can be a great adventure that provides a unique opportunity and rewarding exploration to photograph untouched and pristine landscapes. Embarking on such a trip requires careful planning before you go.

How-to-Find-and-Photograph-Wild-Landscapes-and-Create-Epic-Images-01

Sinai Mountains, Egypt

The first thing you will need to do is choose a wild landscape location to visit. How to go about finding these places is simply a matter of looking for potential destinations. Certain areas around the world are famous for their wild landscapes and rugged beauty including the majestic mountains of Scotland, the highlands of Iceland, the Grand Canyon in the USA, the Canadian Rockies, the deserts of Namibia, Patagonia in South America and many more.

Closer to home, you can find wild landscapes within national parks, areas of outstanding natural beauty and amongst local nature.

Two UK-based photographers worth following who like to photograph wild landscapes include, Thomas Heaton and Alex Nail. Both produce great visuals of wild landscapes, outdoor photography and nature, and are very inspiring.

Once you have found a suitable location, there are several things to consider before going out to photograph wild landscapes.

Go prepared

How-to-Find-and-Photograph-Wild-Landscapes-and-Create-Epic-Images-02

Brecon Beacons, England

When going on a shoot, make a packing list and be prepared from wearing the right gear to having plenty of food and drink supplies to keep your energy levels up.

Take the right clothing

The clothing you take will determine how comfortable you will be. For example, appropriate rain gear is essential if this is the forecast. In sunny weather, you may be uncomfortable in too much clothing, and in colder weather, you will be chilly if you don’t wear enough layers. So you will need to wear appropriate clothing.

Footwear

Choose the appropriate footwear for the terrain you will be walking on. A sturdy pair of waterproof walking boots with good grips on the souls are essential for long walks over rough grounds with rain forecast.

Supplies

Supplies of food and water are important to keep you fuelled and hydrated. Take more than you estimate for your journey in case of any difficulties, such as burning more calories than expected on a long hike to your destination.

Consider wild camping

How-to-Find-and-Photograph-Wild-Landscapes-and-Create-Epic-Images-03

Torres del Paine, Chile

Consider taking a lightweight tent and camping out overnight somewhere to photograph an epic scene of the wilderness. There are advantages to wild camping beside a great view. They include being able to capture the sunset and sunrise, and not having to walk to the destination twice.

The right camera gear

Travel light, especially if you are going to stay out overnight somewhere. Cut back on the camera equipment you take as much as you can. Make room to carry other essentials such as food and drink supplies. Only take the lenses you think you will need, such as a wide-angle lens.

Other equipment

Be sure to take a map with you as a precaution. Also, take a fully-charged phone with a GPS app or an ordinance survey map for directions.

Let people know where you are going

It may seem obvious, but it is essential to tell people where you are heading, and for how long, as a safety precaution. This helps in the unlikely event that you experience any unforeseen circumstances. This could include bad weather (for example, thick fog on a mountain top) or sustaining an injury where you are unable to return at the anticipated time.

You will feel more comfortable in the knowledge that someone knows where you are if you require assistance.

Time your visit

Wild Landscapes 04

The Rockies, Canada

When shooting a wild landscape, it is important to consider the weather conditions.

Time your visit to go and shoot when the weather is good or dramatic. It depends on the kind of image you want to achieve.

There is no such thing as ‘bad weather’ for photography, as in different conditions, you’ll gain different results. For example, a wild stormy sky is great for a powerful and energetic image. Calm and still conditions can give you a minimalist outcome. Each has its own appeal.

You can even shoot landscape images in the midday sun if you prefer to visit during the day.

Choose a viewpoint and composition

When it comes to photographing an epic wild landscape, you will want to choose a viewpoint and composition that captures the location well. Seek out strong compositions that show the majesty of the place, such as a striking mountain range or some intriguing details.

Tripod

It is worth setting your camera on a tripod, especially to help shoot in low light or blustery weather where the conditions can adversely affect the outcome of your images. This will assist in providing more stability and essentially sharper pictures.

Light

Wild Landscapes 05

Sossusvlei, Namibia

When photographing wild landscapes, consider the light to create great images. You can photograph spectacular scenes by using light creatively. Capture sidelight (when the sun lights the landscape from the side, often creating interesting shadows and textures), backlight (shooting in the direction of the sun where your subject can be silhouetted or have bright edges) or front light (where the sun is coming from behind you and straight onto your subject). You can also include the sun in your shot to make images with different tones and brightness.

Conclusion

Photographing wild landscapes can be a great adventure and an opportunity to explore pristine and untouched landscapes. You can find wild landscapes within national parks, areas of outstanding natural beauty and amongst local nature. Remember to consider clothing, footwear, food and water, camera equipment and a map and be sure to let people know where you are going. Choose an interesting viewpoint, use a tripod and be creative with light. Share your pictures of Wild Landscapes with us below.

The post How to Find and Photograph Wild Landscapes for Epic Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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How to Take Epic Sunrise Photos with a Zoom Lens

04 Oct

The post How to Take Epic Sunrise Photos with a Zoom Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

epic-sunrise-photos-with-a-zoom-lens

Taking a beautiful sunrise picture might seem simple: just point your camera or mobile at the sun as it creeps over the horizon and you’re good to go. While this can certainly result in an interesting image, you can take sunrise pictures to a whole new level with a zoom lens and a bit of camera knowledge. If you have a lens with a longer focal length that goes to 200 or 300mm, you can get some epic sunrise pictures with a zoom that showcase the majesty of nature in the morning.

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

200mm, f/11, 1/500 second, ISO 100

Seek the sun

Before you can take a good sunrise picture, you need to do a bit of planning, so you know when the sun is going to come up. It also helps to know where to look so you’re ready when the moment hits. A quick internet search with your location and the words “sunrise time” will help you know what time to take pictures. As far as where to look, that’s up to you.

Of course, the sun always rises in the east, but it’s necessary to know exactly where it will come up relative to your specific location and time of year. To get the best results, you want to snap your pictures right as the sun appears on the horizon. If buildings obstruct your view, you’re going to need to find a location that offers an unobstructed view in the right direction.

To show how precise this process is, look at the picture below. I shot it as the sun was coming up, but the result is boring, bland, and entirely unremarkable.

Image: 200mm, f/6.7, 1/500 second, ISO 800

200mm, f/6.7, 1/500 second, ISO 800

This was shot precisely one minute and 48 seconds before the picture at the top of this article. Why is it so boring? The answer is a simple truth of the business world: location, location, location. While I looked east for the sun, I didn’t realize it had already crested the horizon behind a grove of trees. I was able to take a vastly improved picture just by repositioning myself 100 meters from this point.

When you go out to take sunrise photos, make sure you can actually find the sun!

Expose for the sun

Nailing the exposure on a sunrise picture is quite tricky. Imagine taking a picture of a flashlight in a dimly-lit room. You’ll end up with one of two results: 

  • The room will be properly exposed while the flashlight is super bright.
  • The flashlight will be properly exposed while the rest of the room will be entirely dark.

 It’s nearly impossible to get a properly-exposed flashlight and a properly-exposed room.

Image: 200mm, f/8, 1/30 second, ISO 280. Aside from being hidden behind the trees, this is also a po...

200mm, f/8, 1/30 second, ISO 280. Aside from being hidden behind the trees, this is also a poor shot because the sky and sun are just too bright. The foreground is fine, but all the color detail in the sky is mostly gone.

That is precisely what it’s like to take a picture of the sunrise, especially with a telephoto lens. What you want is a picture where the bright parts (i.e. the sun and sky) aren’t too bright, and the dark parts (i.e. the foreground) aren’t too dark. Basically you want an HDR image, but rather than shooting on a tripod and combining multiple exposures in post-production, you can do it with a single image by shooting in RAW.

Since RAW files capture much more picture data than JPEG files, you can fix many issues in Lightroom, Photoshop, Luminar, and other editing applications. The trick is to make sure you don’t lose any data to clipping, which happens when bright things are so bright that it doesn’t record data. The same can happen with dark areas too, but it’s usually not as much of a problem.

Image: 200mm, f/8, 1/1000 second, ISO 280. Exposing for the sun gave me a lot more wiggle room to fi...

200mm, f/8, 1/1000 second, ISO 280. Exposing for the sun gave me a lot more wiggle room to fix the darker areas of the picture in Lightroom.

There are a couple of ways to expose for the sun so it’s not too bright. You can set your camera to Center-Weighted metering, which ensures the middle of your picture is not too bright or too dark. Another method (and the one which I prefer), is to have your camera evaluate the entire scene but use exposure compensation to under-expose by roughly two stops.

Regardless of how you meter the scene and set your exposure, the end result is the same. In your resulting image, you want the sun to be visible and not too bright. This means the foreground will be dark, but remember that you can recover everything you need when you process the RAW file.

Use a small aperture

If you have a high-end zoom lens like a 70-200 f/2.8 or a 300mm f/4, you might be tempted to shoot sunrise pictures with the largest possible aperture. Blurry foregrounds and backgrounds are great, right? So why wouldn’t you shoot wide open?

Contrary to what you might think, smaller apertures are better when taking sunrise photos. First, it helps make sure your entire picture is sharp. Bokeh is great on portraits but not so desirable on most landscapes. A blurry foreground (thanks to a wide aperture) can distract the viewer and leave the scene feeling kind of mushy as a result.

Image: 200mm, f/11, 1/250 second, ISO 100

200mm, f/11, 1/250 second, ISO 100

Another reason to use smaller apertures, like f/8 or f/11, is that it gives you more control over your exposure. Remember, the sun is really bright, so you don’t need to worry about not getting enough light in your picture! On the contrary, you actually want to limit the amount of light, especially since you want the foreground to be underexposed. A small aperture helps with this.

Use a fast shutter speed

The sun moves fast – really fast. Or, rather, the earth spins fast. That’s what is actually happening when you see the sun come up. And just like any time you want to capture motion, you need to use a shutter speed that’s up to the task. Slower values like 1/30th and 1/60th will not only make exposure tricky, but result in a blurry sun as it speeds upwards on the horizon.

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

200mm, f/2.8, 1/4000th of a second, ISO 100. I broke my own rule about small apertures here, specifically because I wanted the vehicle in the foreground to be out of focus. The trade-off for such a wide aperture was a very fast shutter speed.

I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/250th, and even faster if possible. 1/500th is even better. If you are exposing for the sun, you might even use ultra-fast shutter speeds like 1/1000th or more. Of course, the foreground will be dim, but that’s fine since you can recover those shadows in post-production.

One nice thing about this is it means you don’t need to use a tripod. So that means one less thing for you to bring with you to your sunrise photo shoots. Handheld will work fine, even when zoomed all the way in. That’s because you should have a shutter speed that will compensate for any motion blur due to camera shake.

Be patient, but act fast

Once you have the technical aspects figured out, and you know where you want to position yourself to capture a sunrise, the final piece off the puzzle is patience. I recommend arriving early so you can make sure everything is situated properly. Bring some music or a podcast because you might be waiting a little while. However, it’s better to arrive early than scramble at the last minute.

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

190mm, f/2.8, 1/180th of a second, ISO 250. The sun wasn’t up yet, but I really liked the rich purple and blue colors of the sky – an added bonus of arriving early and waiting. Note the large aperture. It was required to let plenty of light in since there just wasn’t much light available.

As soon as you start to see the sun peek over the horizon, you only have a few minutes to get your shots. Remember to use a small aperture, expose for the sun, and shoot in RAW, and you should be fine. Go ahead and snap a few pictures with your mobile phone too. You’ll be amazed at how much more dramatic and impactful your pictures are with a zoom lens!

Sunrise-Photos-with-a-Zoom-Lens

200mm, f/8, 1/1000th of a second, ISO 100. The sun isn’t in this picture but you can clearly see the morning light on the clouds. I liked the silhouette of the tower against the glowing morning sky too. You can’t get this shot with a mobile phone!

Do you have any other tips for sunrise photos with a zoom lens? Share with us in the comments. Also, I’d love to see your sunrise photos, and I’m sure the rest of the DPS community would also, so please share them in the comments too!

 

 

The post How to Take Epic Sunrise Photos with a Zoom Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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Photographer Dad creates epic Star Wars Christmas card for his family

07 Dec

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Photographer Josh Rossi is no stranger to creating epic photography for and of his family. His portraits of his daughter as Wonder Woman swept across the Internet like wildfire, and he’s continued doing amazing work, including this touching series where he transformed disabled kids into Justice League superheroes.

So why did he let some run-of-the-mill “family photographer” take last year’s Christmas pictures for him!?

He didn’t know either. In fact, he felt deeply ashamed by this lapse in judgement, and so he set to work creating something amazing to redeem himself this Holiday season. Cue Star Wars theme.

“I’m a huge Star Wars fan, and my wife has been asking me to do some pictures of us so I went all out this year for our family photos,” Rossi tells DPReview. And by all-out, he means he recreated the Star Wars: The Last Jedi posters featuring himself, his wife, and their two children instead of the lead actors.

“I had such a fun time doing this with my family,” he told us, “especially with my 1 year old.”

Rossi sent over a few behind the scenes images for us (below) and you can see the final shots in the gallery at the top.

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To see more of Rossi’s work, or if you just want to say hello and kudos for another really creative and well-executed project, head over to his website or give him a follow on Instagram and Facebook.


All photographs by Josh Rossi and used with permission.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Photo of the week: An epic dancer shoot in an inverted room

27 Aug

A month ago, I got in touch with my old friends over at Little Boxes Theater—a recreational performance art/photography studio in San Francisco—about shooting a fun personal project. Since I love to fabricate things in my workshop for shoots, I asked if they’d be up for collaborating on something along those lines.

Aaron Simunovich (one of the studio managers), had a lot of experience woodworking, and threw out the idea of an inverted room. Without any doubts, I said something along the lines of, “yes, let’s make this happen right now.” I immediately got to work on a detailed 3D model of what it might look like structurally, and from there, we budgeted what material we’d need in order to get this set done.

I spent the following 5 days commuting over the San Francisco bridge, gradually building the set with Aaron, and us making frequent trips to the hardware stores… and junkyards. This was all a big experiment, but I called my good friend Valentina Reneff-Olson to model, since this trippy composition just called for a flexible dancer. Combine this two-wall set with a bit of intricate posing, and you end up with a series of photos that emulate anti-gravity perfectly.

Generally, the concept was to have the dancer shooting out of what looked like a painting/mirror frame. Oh yeah, and rain. There was rain.

Technical Details

If I told you how long we actually shot for, you’d probably think I was exaggerating. The truth is, once we had everybody at the studio, we only had 2 hours to get something good. Since I had to travel back to LA for an upcoming shoot, and their studio was booked out, there was just no way to do it the following day.

Little Boxes Theater likes to store set designs in-house, but since I don’t live anywhere near San Francisco, I was not going to leave back to Los Angeles without content that was up to my expectations. Two hours to get both photo and video content? No pressure.

*Game face*

Since I wanted to test the stills and slow motion of my new GH5, I used that body with a 25mm f/1.7 lens, and did everything handheld with the 5-axis stabilization turned on. There were two lighting setups being used simultaneously:

One for stills:

  • Two 600w heads
  • Reflector

One for video:

  • LED panel
  • Reflector
  • 1K Arri fresnel

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Since I was shooting slow motion at a higher shutter speed, I was really pushing the GH5 settings to see how it performed on this test. The power output of the strobes overpowered the constant lights, so for stills we just kept the constant lights on to help with auto-focus.

Together, we all improvised a bunch of choreography and posing for Valentina to follow, and our stylist, Virginie Suos, switched out the clothing after each video sequence in the rain. I got oddly comfortable shooting atop a scaffolding, with my head tilted 90º the whole time.

This shoot ended up being 75% stills and 25% video, so the minute-long short film that I threw together was cut only from about 6 shots only.

To that I’d say: “not too shabby Daniel, not too shabby.”

Check out the full behind the scenes video below:


Daniel DeArco is a Los Angeles-based photographer, filmmaker, and inventor who first picked up a camera in 2011 after he severely broke his neck. Since then, he’s made a name shooting creative portraits and commercial work. You can find more of his work on his website, Instagram, and YouTube.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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This video compares a $50 Sony camcorder with a $50,000 RED Epic Dragon

28 Jul

Ever wonder whether a more expensive camera is truly worth the cost? Sam and Niko of Corridor recently set out to compare footage from a $ 50 Sony HD camcorder and the RED Epic Dragon, a $ 50,000 6K cinema camera. As you’d expect, the differences are immediately apparent, cost aside, when the two cameras are put side-by-side: the RED camera’s lens alone is about the same size as the entire Sony camcorder.

The RED Epic Dragon has proven capable many times throughout its life, with perhaps one of the model’s most notable achievements being a trip into space where it was used by NASA astronauts to capture images from the International Space Station. The RED camera has also been used for several major Hollywood movies. The Sony HD camcorder used in the video, however, is a simple model with a low price point aimed at the average consumer.

At nearly 15 minutes in length, the comparison video above runs through several major aspects of both cameras’ footage, looking at things like noise level, exposure, low-light performance, post-processing results and more. As expected, the RED camera dominates in each category. More of the team’s videos can be found on the ‘Sam and Niko’ YouTube channel.

Via: iso1200

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Throwback Thursday: The Olympus Stylus Epic and my love for clamshell cameras

19 Aug

Bring back the clamshell!

From left to right: The Olympus Stylus Epic, The Olympus [mju :] II, The Olympus XA. The first two are the same camera (different names for different markets), the latter started my love for clamshell cameras.

My love affair with the clamshell camera design started with the Olympus XA and ultimately lead me to the Olympus Stylus Epic, also know as the Olympus [mju:] II in the Japanese market (pronounced mew two, like the Pokémon). It’s a funky plastic 90’s style camera that to the untrained eye, looks a little like a piece of junk.

Both the Olympus XA, released in 1979, and the Stylus Epic, released in 1997, feature excellent fixed 35mm F2.8 lenses and Olympus’ brilliant clamshell design. The XA is an aperture priority-only rangefinder, while the Stylus Epic is a fully automatic camera with a three spot autofocus system and built-in flash.

Open/On Closed/Off

Due to its ease-of-use, small size and sharp lens, the Stylus Epic is my go anywhere camera (the XA I use mainly for street photography and travel). I’ve long searched for the perfect camera to slide in my back pocket every time I leave the house and this soap-shaped oddball is the one for me. It’s not as cool looking as a Ricoh R1 (which I also shoot with occasionally), but I’ve found it to be much more reliable.

If you haven’t figured it out by now, I’m a huge camera nerd and a big supporter of shooting analog. Film photography offers a nice balance to my daily concentration on digital photography for DPReview (my analog site is PopularAmerican.club). It also helps me to slow down and practice decisiveness. Of course the Stylus Epic, being a fully automatic camera, isn’t exactly encouraging me to work on fundamentals, but it does free me up to be more in the moment and act on instinct.

While these cameras are mostly fully automatic, they feature good metering.

The major selling points of the Olympus Stylus Epic are as follows: it is a full-frame, 35mm camera with an excellent (and reasonably fast) lens in my favorite focal length, it weighs a mere 5.1 oz and is no larger than a Sony RX100 series camera (which weighs nearly double). It’s also weather-sealed and built extremely tough, despite its plastic appearance. Lastly, its strange curved design makes it easy to slide in and out of a pocket.

The Olympus Stylus Epic is about the same size as a Sony RX100-series camera and about half the weight.

But hands down my favorite feature of the Epic is its clamshell. There’s no on/off switch – simply slide it open and it’s ready to shoot. It’s essentially a lens cap that doubles as a power switch, and it’s brilliant.

“It’s essentially a lens cap that doubles as a power switch, and it’s brilliant.”

Of course, Olympus didn’t abandon the clamshell design when it moved to digital around the turn of the century. There were plenty of tiny sensor compacts that featured clamshells. But at some point, they were no more. I haven’t pinpointed when the last one was released (if you know, shout it out in the comments,) but it seems by around 2007, the clamshell had been phased out entirely.

But why? Perhaps aesthetically, the design was too dated-looking. Or perhaps due to the decline in sales of compacts, Olympus moved in a different direction. Whatever the reason, I implore you, Olympus, bring back the clamshell!

There are, of course, several excellent large sensor fixed lens digital compacts on the market, though only the Ricoh GR and Nikon A can really be considered pocketable (the Fujifilm X70 is just slightly too big IMHO.)

These cameras are cool, but they suffer from one flaw. Most of them extend their lens when turned on, a design execution made to keep the overall package compact. But what happens when the camera is accidentally turned on in your bag or pocket and the lens attempts to extend with nowhere to go? The point is, I like a lot of the digital fixed lens compacts on the market, but ultimately I find them to be somewhat fragile, an undesirable quality for a take-anywhere camera. Furthermore, none of the pocketable ones are weather-sealed and only the Leica Q and Sony RX1R offer a full-frame sensor to match that of my Stylus Epic. Both are also large (un-pocketable) and expensive.

The Stylus Epic extends its lens only to focus when the shutter is pressed.

So is it possible to make a modern camera as small as the Stylus Epic, without an extending lens, while retaining a relatively large sensor? We’ve been following along with Sony’s development of a curved sensor for a while now, and reading back through our coverage got me thinking: perhaps this technology is the key a digital reincarnation of my beloved Stylus Epic.

Available settings include: flash on, flash off, red eye reduction, slow synchro (night scene flash), slow synchro plus red eye and spot mode (which requires pressing both back buttons simultaneously to engage). I mostly keep it on the default setting. Unfortunately the only mode the camera retains after being turned off and back on is red eye reduction. I’ve read a lot of complaints that the Epic doesn’t recall the “flash off” setting once turned off, which I tend to agree is very annoying.

As far as designing a 90’s throwback, manufacturers are obviously very comfortable tapping into classic design styles; take the Olympus PEN-F and pretty much every recent Fujifilm X-camera, for instance. But up until now, these throwback designs have all come from cameras released in the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s. I think its about time we had some throwback designs from the 80’s and 90’s and a reincarnation of the Epic seems like the perfect place to start!

To be fair, the Olympus Stylus Epic does extend the lens barrel, but not until the shutter has been fully pressed. This leads to a very slight shutter delay, but it is hardly noticeable.

I’m not even asking for a full-framer, but even a 1″-type sensor, fixed lens compact with a fast 35mm-equivalent lens would do it for me. Just make sure it’s pocketable, has a good flash, is weather sealed and is built like a tank. So Olympus, if you’re reading this, please consider a reboot of my dear Stylus Epic. Just don’t forget the clamshell!

Curvy beauty.

Is there a classic film camera you’d like to see a a digital reincarnation of? Let us know in the comments!

*A previous version of this article incorrectly stated the Epic uses a curved film plane.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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