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Posts Tagged ‘Creative’

Adobe updates Creative Cloud video and audio apps, adds GPU-accelerated encoding, ProRes RAW support and more

20 May

Adobe has released updates for a variety of its software products, including major updates to Adobe Premiere Pro. Adobe Premiere Pro version 14.2 includes GPU acceleration for encoding on Windows, promising export speeds up to five times faster than encoding performed using only the CPU.

For Nvidia and AMD GPUs which support hardware encoding, the new versions of Premiere Pro, Media Encoder, After Effects and Audition on Windows promise vastly improved performance when exporting files. Of the new update, Adobe senior engineering manager Manish Kulkarni says, ‘With new support for NVIDIA GPUs on Windows, exports are hardware accelerated leveraging the power of the GPU to make Premiere Pro more powerful and keep video creators productive and nimble.’

‘This graph shows encoding speeds gains using hardware-based encoding with an NVIDIA RTX 5000 GPU. With the addition of AMD and NVIDIA support on Windows, hardware encoding is now available across all modern macOS and PC systems.’ Image and caption credit: Adobe

Adobe has also introduced ProRes RAW support in Premiere Pro and After Effects on Windows, a very welcomed change that’s been a long time coming. The graphics workflow in Premiere Pro has also been enhanced through the addition of an improved Pen tool with better support for Bezier curves. This will allow users to more easily create lines and shapes.

Further, in After Effects, motion graphics artists have new tapered shape strokes to use when creating animations and designs. There are also new repeating concentric shape parameters and Mask/Shape cursor indicators.

In addition to faster encoding through hardware acceleration on Windows, users can also expect faster Auto Reframe across all devices. Utilizing its artificial intelligence, Adobe Sensei, Auto Reframe now automatically reformats and repositions video across varying aspect ratios. Speaking of aspect ratios, Adobe Premiere Rush users will now be able to automatically resize projects to the 4:5 aspect ratio frequently used for Facebook and Instagram videos.

‘Auto Reframe in Premiere Pro uses Adobe Sensei AI to reposition video within different aspect ratios. The feature is now twice as fast.’ Image and caption credit: Adobe

On the workflow side of things, Adobe has added support for audio files within Creative Cloud Libraries, which allows users to save, organize and share audio assets for easier access through the CC Libraries panel. For macOS users, automatic audio hardware switching has been added to After Effects, Media Encoder, Audition, Character Animator, Prelude, Premiere Pro and Premiere Rush. This means that when changing audio devices, Adobe applications will now automatically switch to the current hardware.

Improving software performance and stability is Adobe’s top priority. Alongside today’s updates, Adobe has published a new blog post outlining the various efforts the company and its engineers have made over the past year. Further, as many performance updates depend upon the user’s hardware, Adobe has also expanded its research into crash reports and how users are taking advantage of the company’s suite of software. If you are interested in learning more about the performance gains introduced with today’s update and becoming part of Adobe’s expanding public beta program for future updates, be sure to read the new post.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas

15 May

The post 10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

at-home creative photography ideas

There is really no better time to practice some at-home creative photography ideas. There are lots of ideas you can experiment with, and with some basic equipment, you can really work wonders. Let’s get into it and discover some creative photography ideas you can work on at home, and work into a series of images.

1. Photographing water droplets

This is a classic project that you can try at home. It’s also relatively simple to set up, though you will need some specialized photographic equipment.

The equipment needed here includes a camera with a macro lens, a tripod, and an off-camera flash. You’ll then need to set up a location where you can drip water into a bowl of water. Learn more about how to take these photos here.

10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
Water drop photography is another form of refraction photography.

2. Food photography

Everyone loves to practice food photography, especially when the food looks amazing! This genre is huge, and potentially lucrative, as the images you take could be sold as stock.

So what are some of the things that can lead to successful food photography in the home? Take a look at this list, but for a more detailed guide take a look at this article.

  • Lighting – This is key to good food photography. Natural light such as window sidelight works well. If you use off-camera flash, the light should come from behind the food, but be sure to reflect the light back to avoid shadows in your photo.
  • Backdrop – Standard still life backdrops like photographing the food in a lightbox can be effective. Otherwise, make sure the background provides context to the food you wish to photograph.
  • Food layout – Make sure your food is well presented. The best professional food photographers use food stylists, so see how you can produce something with style. The use of repeating elements is one potential solution here.
10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
The best bit about food photography is eating the food!

3. Lensball light painting

A lot of Lensball photography will be carried outdoors, however, the Lensball is an excellent still-life object too.

One popular indoor project for Lensball photographers is light painting. You’ll need a dark room, tripod, and sheet of glass to go on the table as your initial setup.

  • Keyring – Use this under the ball to prevent it from rolling on the glass.
  • Table – Place the glass sheet on a table, and then put the ball on this.
  • Camera – Set the camera up on the tripod, and focus it on the ball.
  • Dark – Turn the lights off in the room, and ensure no ambient light seeps into the room.
  • Exposure – The exposure length should be around five seconds, but could be longer.
  • Light painting – With the camera setup, hit exposure, and light paint behind the ball with the light-emitting device of your choice.
10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
In this photo, an iPhone was used to produce the light painting.

4. Freezing objects in ice

A fun project to try when you have a bit of time at home is freezing objects in ice. You’ll need a few days to complete each photo since there is a process involved in freezing an object. The main thing you need to achieve is getting the object to freeze in the middle of the block of ice.

If you want to read about how to successfully carry out this technique, then click this link.

10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
Take your food photography in a different direction with this technique.

5. Still life photography

Once again, this is a huge genre in photography. The most professional photos will always have good lighting.

This style of photography could dovetail nicely with another hobby you may have. For instance, if you’re a quilter, photographing your finished product is a great idea.

If you want to get the best out of your still life photography then you can learn more by reading this article.

10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
A nice simple image with a white background can look nice.

6. Mixing oil and water

Another of the at-home creative photography ideas involves getting into the science vibe with a bit of hydrophilic and hydrophobic action.

That’s mixing oil and water and then photographing the resultant oil “bubbles.”

You’ll need to add your oil and water mix to a glass container, and then suspend this glass container above the ground a little. Now you’re ready to photograph downwards and through the oil bubbles.

To get the best results, use colorful backgrounds underneath the glass container.

10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
A classic project to try at home is mixing oil and water.

7. Water droplets on glass

Another science-based photography project you can try is placing water droplets on glass.

This style of photography utilizes refraction and repetition to produce great results.

You can experiment with the number of water droplets, or varying the background to increase your output. To learn more about this read this article.

10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
Use an interesting background to get great results.

8. Learn a new post-processing skill

One of the more obvious candidates for at-home creative photography ideas is post-processing.

Everyone knows this is a vital aspect of photography, it’s basically the new darkroom. Yet investing time in learning new post-processing skills when you’d rather be outside photographing? Well, if you have to be inside, then learning some new post-processing skills is a great idea!

  • Digital blending – A great technique to learn for landscape photographers, you’ll learn some key Photoshop skills like layer masking through learning this procedure.
  • Cloning – Whether it’s cloning an object out of the image, or cloning yourself multiple times, this is a great skill to learn.
  • Sharpening and softening – An essential skill for portrait photographers to learn. Sharpen the eyes and soften the skin for best results.
10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
In this photo, cloning and selective coloring were both used in post-processing.

9. Creating bokeh shapes

This is a great project with a little hands-on craft to it.

Bokeh is produced when your camera blurs the background, and this area of the photo is referred to as bokeh. When there are points of light in the background they will enlarge to “balls of light.”

To create bokeh shapes, you need to put that shape onto the front of your lens. This involves attaching a black disc to your lens, with the desired shape in the center of this disc. Want to try this out? Take a look here.

10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
This photo used shaped bokeh with colored fairy lights in the background.

10. Light spirals

Another kind of light painting you can try at home is light spirals. This is a lot of fun, and you can get quite creative with the patterns you produce.

You’ll need a completely dark room to get the best results from this. You’ll be spinning a light source attached to some string, and this will be above your camera.

This is a long exposure photo, so of course, a tripod is recommended. However, you could go without in this case by placing the camera faced upwards on the ground. If you want to learn more, then check out this excellent video.

10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas
Light patterns like this can look great.

Which of these at-home creative photography ideas will you take on?

With time at home it’s a great chance to take up an indoor photography project. Have you ever tried any of these at-home creative photography ideas yourself?

If you haven’t, which of these is the most interesting to you? Perhaps you have another technique like water-drops on a CD, that you’ll try out?

As always, please leave your thoughts and comments below, and if you have any images you’re willing to share that would be great as well!

The post 10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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Adobe’s 12th Annual 99U Creative Conference will be free and virtual this year

07 May

Adobe has announced its 12th Annual 99U Creative Conference, which is usually a paid, in-person event, will be hosted on Adobe Live for free as a virtual event this year amidst the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic.

Tickets for the annual event normally cost around $ 1,000, so being able to take in the event for free, in the comfort of your own home, is quite the discount. This year’s event will take place on Wednesday June 17 and will feature a mix of keynotes, creative workshops and masterclasses throughout the day. The presentations will be available stream via Adobe Live or available on-demand shortly after completion of each event.

A few of the individuals who will be presenting at this year’s virtual conference.

You can find out more information and register to ‘attend’ the event for free on Adobe’s Behance website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Stay creative in lockdown with these fun photo projects

05 May

A version of this article (‘Fun winter photo projects for the long, dark days of winter’) was first published in late 2019. Following the global restrictions on movement as a result of the coronavirus pandemic, this article has been updated with some additional ideas for photography in isolation.


It might feel that this lockdown situation has left our cameras totally superfluous while we can’t get out to shoot the things we would usually take pictures of. Not being able to go out means we have nothing to take pictures of. Right?

Wrong!

Just because we can’t get out and about like we normally would, doesn’t mean we have to stop taking pictures. There’s still plenty you can do, provided you’re prepared to use some imagination. Here are a few ideas to keep you shooting until normal life resumes.

Start a photo diary

A few months ago if you saw someone shopping for groceries wearing a respirator, you’d probably have called the police. As well as providing a creative outlet, a photo diary will serve as a reminder of the current weirdness, when things finally get back to normal.

Most photographers love to shoot the unusual, and you don’t get much more unusual than These Unprecedented Times. Right now everything counts as out of the ordinary.

There are a number of remarkable things about these lockdown days that are worth photographing now so we can remember them when it is all over. Streets empty that are usually busy are remarkable and can evoke the sense of historical pictures from before the invention of the motorcar. Other things that are different at the moment will be queues to get into stores and the lines marked out on the floor to show how far apart we should be.

For this abstract shot, I framed a social distancing guide inside the lattice of my shopping cart at a local grocery store.

People wearing masks and gloves – and sometimes full-body chemical suits – in the street, in stores and out exercising are also a sure reflection of the times we are in. There are signs too of social distancing, with people chatting from further apart than seems natural, delivery people standing at the end of the garden path waiting for someone to answer the door, and of course people at home making video calls to friends and family. And baking – suddenly everyone is making cakes, bread and cookies.

Perhaps start by making a list of all the things that have changed about your life, the lives of those around you and your environment, and then think about how you can record those changes with your camera.

Of course the project doesn’t need to be presented literally as a diary when this is all over, but if you think of it as a diary while you’re working, it will remind you to try shooting something every day.

Abstracts at home

It’s likely that there are abstract photographs to be had all over your house or apartment, if you use some imagination.

Most photographers find it hard to see interesting pictures in places in which they are most familiar. A trip somewhere new seems always exactly what our photography needed, as shooting away from home consistently inspires us to new artistic heights. The truth of course is that everywhere else isn’t more interesting than the place we are in, it just seems that way because over time it’s easy to become blind to the things staring us in the face at home.

Our houses, apartments, sheds, garages, bathrooms, stairways, windowsills and shoe cupboards are all harboring an infinite number of stunning, interesting, intriguing and fascinating pictures that, on a daily basis, we fail to see. If someone else came into our house they would see all those opportunities (which would be very annoying) and we would see them in theirs, but finding them in our own is a much more challenging matter.
Finding the interesting abstracts in your own home requires you to look with new eyes.

Here, the frosted glass window on a bathroom cabinet provides a frame for a simple abstract shot, without the need to go outdoors.

Pretend everything is new and that you haven’t seen it before, and then you will be free to notice the leading lines, the places where one edge meets another in delightful geometric harmony, and how the ordinary things in the kitchen are transformed when the light is on or off.

The trick here is to look slowly, and then look again. Take the time to look in detail and to look at the same thing from different angles, with different light, long lenses and wide lenses. Then move to the left a bit. You may never feel the need to leave the house again.

Country and urban landscapes

You don’t have to travel far to find nature. It doesn’t occur to a lot of photographers that there may be beautiful photographs waiting for them in their home towns and villages.

When it comes to landscapes, you should be careful, because the rules and regulations are different for each country. If you’re considering venturing out, be aware of what is allowed and not allowed where you live. In some places people aren’t allowed out of the house for any reason other than shopping for food or medical supplies. In others parts of the world, taking a walk for exercise is positively encouraged.

Where I live there are more people out exercising than ever before, so the popular places are, well, popular and too crowded for my liking. I’ve been avoiding those and walking in less obvious areas where the lack of traffic and the usual bustle has made for some interesting and unusual sights. I go early too, as it seems everyone else is taking the opportunity to stay in bed a little longer. I get the early morning light as well as empty places all to myself.

Where I live it is okay to take a camera with you when you are going out to exercise, but it’s not acceptable to just head off on a photo expedition with tripods, big bags and a pile of paraphernalia. I’ve actually been shooting a lot more with my phone, as I feel that is easier to justify to myself and I know it will delay me much less than having a proper camera with me.

Landscape photography doesn’t have to mean driving for hours to get to a beauty spot. This photograph was taken within walking distance from where I live. An emblematic image of lockdown: A completely empty highway, in the middle of the day.

Be conscious of what is acceptable in your region and don’t risk your health, or that of anyone else, by being out too long, standing in one place for ages waiting for the light, or putting yourself somewhere in which others can’t pass you without getting too close.

I live in an urban area in a mostly flat county, so I’m not expecting rolling hills and distant mountains, and I’m making do with roads, bridges, patches of green and the occasional field of crops. Landscape pictures don’t have to be of beautiful scenery, but you can usually find something aesthetically pleasing in an ordinary scene when you look hard enough.

Still life

I used a gold sheet of card from a craft store to send a little warmth back into the subject from the left hand side. The diffused flash was positioned on the right, and contrasting the white light from the flash with the gold light from the reflector emphasizes the warm effect

A good mastery of still life photography should help improve your photography across the board, and this is a good time to get some practice in. Working with a few objects on the table top with just a single light and a reflector is an ideal way to teach yourself more about lighting, exposure and composition.

If you are new to still life photography I suggest starting with just an orange and a table lamp, moving the lamp around the orange to see how the direction of the light changes the way the orange looks. Once you’ve done that and looked carefully at the way highlights and shadows control the sense of three dimensions in the image you can move on to everyday objects laying around the house.

Keep things simple by using just one or two objects in your scene, and try lighting with just one source and a couple of reflectors to moderate the shadows.

Here I used a single LED panel at the top of the frame, and a couple of mirror tiles to the left and right of the handle to throw some light back in the opposite direction. A wide aperture created a shallow depth-of-field to draw the eye diagonally up the handle to the point of focus.

The blueberry doesn’t need to be sharp for us to know it is a blueberry, and it is used as a counterweight to the main area of interest

Knives, forks and spoons offer interesting shapes and compositional challenges, and natural objects saved from the autumn, like nuts or dried leaves, give you the chance to bring nature into your work. The supermarket is also filled with interesting fruit and vegetables, and home stores and hardware stores stock nice cups, glasses and industrial looking bolts, screws, springs and fascinating sheets of metal/plastic/wood that will make interesting backgrounds.

One of the nice things about still life is that you can take your time and there is usually no rush, so you can look really carefully, try things out and try again when it doesn’t work the first time.

Tips:

  • Work slowly and really look at the effect of the light on your subject
  • Use silver, gold, white and black cards to bounce/block light
  • When used as a reflector, mirrors throw back so much light they can save you having to buy a second flash

Macro

Here a little light either side is used to demonstrate the three-dimensional qualities of the seed head and the stem, and to lift it from the black-cloth background. I used a pair of hotshoe flash units fired through mini-softboxes attached to an adapter ring

An extension of still life, macro photography will test your ability to see details and to look more closely than usual. Successful macro photography is all about finding hidden textures, patterns and features of everyday objects as well as capturing tiny plants and animals that might otherwise escape our attention.

Macro does require at least some specialist equipment, whether that’s a reversal ring, a coupling ring to mount one lens backwards on another or an actual dedicated macro lens. Using a lens designed for macro will make your life a lot easier and will deliver the best quality without too much effort, but high-quality macro lenses can be costly.

Extension tubes are very affordable, and can be added to a standard lens to help you get a little, or a lot, closer, and a micro adjustment platform for your tripod head can help when it comes to getting accurate focus in the closeup range without having to move the tripod.

Lights don’t need to be expensive. This was lit with a small pocket flashlight positioned to make these pasta shells glow in the dark. A sheet of white paper under the lens was enough to throw a touch of light back to reveal some of the details of side of the shells closest to the camera

Cable and remote release devices will help to avoid camera shake with dramatic magnifications and tethering software will allow a bigger preview to ensure anything is perfect before you trip the shutter. How about using these months of isolation to teach yourself focus stacking so you can control exactly what is and isn’t sharp in your images?

Tips:

  • Having a dedicated macro lens will make your life easier
  • Use a tripod or support, don’t think you can do this handheld
  • Be aware that depth-of-field is tiny in macro work, so add lots of light if you need small apertures

Window portraits of family

Late afternoon light on a winter’s day softly passing through a bay window was all that was needed for this portrait. I kept the sitter well back from the window to produce nice soft contrast but still retaining enough to show the shape of her head and features. Using the white balance in Daylight mode shows the coolness of the light and lets us know this is a winter image

It doesn’t matter what time of year it is – daylight gliding through a north-facing window will always provide some of the best kind of lighting for natural-looking portraiture. On rainy and overcast days the light levels might be lower but that light will also be softer and more flattering.

Position your subject close to the window if you want more contrast and further away for less, and try turning them 3/4 against the light to get a more dramatic effect. Using a black card on the unlit side of the face can help to deepen shadows if there’s more light than you want bouncing around the room. A net curtain or sheet of thin paper across the window can diffuse the daylight on a sunny day or when you only have south-facing windows to play with.

Positioning the subjects directly in front of a sunny window gives them this stark and very direct frontal lighting. I stood with my back to the window and pulled the shutters across to create the stripes on the groom’s jacket. The light on his face is reflected from the white top-side of the shutters.

As he is close to the window the light drops off quite quickly, leaving his friends visible but much darker. This helps to express who is the most important player in the scene, and who are the secondary elements.

Extra diffusion will also cut down the light making it easier to achieve a wide aperture if you want shallow depth-of-field.

Try experimenting with white balance too, so you can create a warm or cool effect whatever the conditions outside.

Tips:

  • Try positioning the sitter at different distances from the window to vary contrast
  • Move your sitter between each end of the window to alter how the light wraps around their face
  • Use net curtains, bubble wrap or paper to diffuse the light even more

Home studio

Using quite a small soft light creates strong direction but avoids razor-sharp edges to the shadows. The small light also allows a rapid fall off, so the subject’s head is lit more brightly than her body, and positioning the light just slightly behind illuminates the front of her face while leaving the side closest to the camera dark – drawing attention to her closed eyes. A small direct light from behind her lifts her shoulders from the background and helps to create a sense of depth in the picture.

Opera singer Golda Schultz for the BBC Proms Magazine

When there’s not too much natural light coming through the windows, or we need more for smaller apertures and lower ISO settings, it’s a good time to think about alternative light sources. Domestic lights can be very useful for lighting in a home studio but they don’t always deliver enough power, so sometimes we need to look at flash.

There have never been so many flash units available for photographers so we have plenty of choice. Big studio monoblock type studio flash offer the advantage of power and a modeling bulb so we can see what we are doing, but they can feel expensive for the enthusiast. A useful alternative is to use one of the host of hotshoe flash units that are available – either from the manufacturer of your camera or from one of the many independent brands that have sprung up over the last ten or so years.

This is the setup for the shot above. You can see that I believe in keeping things simple. The lights are Rotolight Annova Pro on the left and the Neo2 on the right. I used a Veydra Mini Prime 35mm T2.2 cinema lens – for a softer feel – on the Panasonic Lumix DC-G9

Modern hotshoe flash units are remarkably powerful, flexible and easy to use, and with auto and TTL modes they can be set to do all the work for you. In manual mode they offer more straight forward options and with wireless control becoming the norm you don’t have to leave the camera position to make your changes – or to check the results of any adjustments you’ve made.

What makes hotshoe style flash units so useful now is the mass of accessories and modifiers that can transform their light to be indistinguishable from that of a professional studio flash. I use adapter clamps so that my flash units can fit inside the softboxes, dishes and snoots that I use with my main studio units, and enjoy the convenience, the shorter set-up time and that they fit in smaller spaces.

Tips:

  • Keep the flash/light source away from the camera for a more three-dimensional effect
  • Bounce light from a white wall/ceiling to create a larger/softer light
  • Use an adapter that allows you to use soft-boxes and accessories with your flash head for a wider range of lighting looks

Summing up

Lockdown doesn’t have to mean putting down your camera. All that’s required is a little imagination and (ideally) a tripod. So take a look around your home to see what/who you can aim your camera at, start a photo diary, and keep on shooting until we can all get outside again.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Creative Photography Exercises to do at Home (video)

03 May

The post Creative Photography Exercises to do at Home (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

If you are stuck at home and bored, why not try some of these great creative photography exercises to get you upping your photography skills and relieving your boredom at the same time?

You can do so with this great video from our friends over at Cooph, who have gone to the effort of compiling some of their great at-home creative photography exercises into one video.

Some of the techniques include:

  1. Photography with Food and drinks – using things like coffee, avocados and more.
  2. Kitchen Views – inside the fridge, using your sink, dishes and cutlery. Using your cupboards as black boxes. Explore food coloring and dish soap.
  3. Make funky installations – use projections from your computer onto people or objects and photograph them. Use colored gels on your camera or lighting gear.
  4. Office visions – Use a lens ball and text, use office items in an unusual way. Draw your own props to photograph.

So try out some of these exercises and share your results with us in the comments below!

You may also like:

  • 7 Ideas for Creative Lens Ball Photography
  • Stunning Photo Ideas Using Coffee
  • 6 Methods to Create Dynamic in Your Photography
  • Challenge Yourself by Photographing One Object
  • 5 Fun Tips for Photographing Water
  • 10 Photography Projects You Can Work on From Home
  • Stuck at Home? – Ways Still Life Photography Can Keep Your Skills Sharp
  • 10 Things You Can Photograph in Your Home
  • Exploring Your Home with Close-Up Filters
  • The dPS At-Home 7-Day Photography Challenge – Week Four

The post Creative Photography Exercises to do at Home (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Adobe tweaks Creative Residency program to launch $1M support fund for visual creatives

01 May

Adobe has announced the latest iteration of its Adobe Creative Resident program, one that has changed substantially in light of the coronavirus pandemic. This year, Adobe says that it will only select two Creative Residents, but that it will also launch a $ 1 million Creative Residency Community Fund intended to support creators during the economic downturn.

Adobe explains that this fund will be open globally and will be used to hire creatives for projects commissioned by Adobe over the next year, as well as personal projects. Creatives who get support from Adobe for personal and commissioned projects will also receive career guidance workshops, Creative Cloud memberships and other unspecified support.

Visual creatives interested in the fund will need to apply on Adobe’s website here. Applicants have the choice of applying for a creative project grant, which will range from $ 500 to $ 5,000, or for Adobe project commissions, which will also be valued at $ 500 to $ 5,000. Applicants aren’t required to propose a project when applying for commissioned work.

Adobe plans to run its fund for 12 months from May 1, 2020, to April 30, 2021. Recipients will be notified about their inclusion in the program 30 to 60 days after submitting their application; the grants are issued on a monthly basis.

Adobe says that creatives can apply for the Community Fund even if they already applied for the Creative Residency this year but weren’t selected. The company is accepting applications from a variety of visual creatives, including professionals who work with 3D, graphic design, short-form online videos, photography, digital painting and drawing, motion design and UX/UI/VX/XD design.

As far as commissioned work goes, professionals who are selected for projects will receive work based on their portfolio, skills and what Adobe happens to need at the time. This could include artwork for social media or use in applications, or something like creating a video, writing an article or developing a tutorial, according to the company.

Beyond this, Adobe announced that Christina Poku and Maddy Beard are its two Creative Residents for the 2020-2021 year. It’s yet to be seen whether the coronavirus pandemic is over by the start of Adobe’s next residency period and what kind of impact that may have on the company’s future plans for its program.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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10 Creative DIY Photo IDEAS when Stuck at Home (video)

25 Apr

The post 10 Creative DIY Photo IDEAS when Stuck at Home (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this video from Nicolas Doretti, he gives you 10 creative DIY photo ideas for when you are stuck at home. They are fun, interesting, and best of all, they may teach you some new techniques you hadn’t thought to try.

So try some of these ideas out, and share your results with us in the comments section!

10 Creative DIY Photo IDEAS when Stuck at Home

DIY photo idea – woman floating above a bed
  1. Use everyday props to play with the light while making portraits. Play with colanders, cut shapes into cardboard, or use pieces of material to filter the window light or other artificial lighting.
  2. Use glass and ice as a foreground for some cool portraits.
  3. Use fairy lights for some great portrait effects, or if you have no model, just photograph the lights themselves and create bokeh.
  4. Do some food photography. Make a seamless DIY backdrop using a pillowcase or similar.
  5. Do some Ninja photos using oranges or similar. Cut them in half and use skewers to make them look like they are floating. Photograph yourself making a Ninja move, so it looks like you have just cut it in half. Or, if you don’t want to be in the photo, simply make them look like they are floating.
  6. Duplicate yourself in photos by placing your camera on a tripod and taking multiple photos of yourself in different positions. Then composite the photos together in a program such as Photoshop by using Layer Masks.
  7. Try levitation photography. Use masks again to remove your chair (or whatever you have used to make it look like you or the person you are photographing are levitating).
  8. Try some birds eye photography by attaching your phone to the ceiling and taking some shots of the room below.
  9. Make some cool lighting effects using reflections! Or shoot using objects that refract or diffract the light, such as reading glasses, crystal, drinking glasses, CDs, or knives.
  10. Create your own neon background. Do a search for colorful or neon backgrounds, and place the image on your TV or screen. Then photograph your subject in front of it.
DIY photo idea – multiple images of same person in one composition
DIY photo idea – photograph of woman with interesting lighting
10 Creative DIY Photo IDEAS when Stuck at Home (video)

You may also like:

  • The dPS At-Home 7-Day Photography Challenge – Week One
  • Next-Level Selfies – 7 Tips for Creative Self-Portraits (video)
  • How to Make a Cool Double Exposure Effect Using Photoshop (video)
  • How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography
  • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
  • How to Take Floating Photos – Levitation Photography
  • Challenge Yourself by Photographing One Object
  • Easy to Create Fake Underwater Photography Hack

The post 10 Creative DIY Photo IDEAS when Stuck at Home (video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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Fun 5-Second Photos – Using Long Exposures for Creative Images

17 Apr

The post Fun 5-Second Photos – Using Long Exposures for Creative Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

long exposures for creative images

Survey your collection of photos, and I’d bet that most will have been taken at 1/30th of a second or faster. Usually, we want to freeze any action, getting as sharp an image as possible. Other times, however, we might want to purposefully use long exposures for creative images.

Silky waterfalls, streaked clouds, oceans waves that look more like mist – those are the images where we might use shutter speeds that last multiple seconds or even minutes. But how about a middle-ground, say a 5-second exposure? What kinds of looks might that give you?

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
I wanted to tap into the frozen, non-moving ice and the moving fluid water in this photo. I needed an ND filter to get me to the shutter speed I wanted. Canon 6D with Canon 24-105mm lens, 6-seconds, f/22 ISO 100.

For the examples in this article, let’s be a little flexible saying anything between four and eight seconds is what we’re interested in.

Fortunately, Lightroom can filter images by looking at the shutter speed recorded in the Exif data. I was easily able to see which of the over 105,500 images in my Lightroom catalog fell into that range. It was just 1,036 of those or .981%.

So, while perhaps shutter speeds in the 5-second range are not often used for general photography, as you will see, occasionally that range is just right for the look you seek.

Tripod or hand-held?

The “inverse focal-length rule” says that to prevent camera shake blur you should always try to shoot at 1/lens focal length as your minimum for hand-holding your camera. For example, using your 70-200mm zoom lens if you were zoomed wide to 70mm your shutter speed should be 1/70th or faster like 1/100th of a second.

Zoom in to the full 200mm setting, and you’d best be at 1/250th or faster to prevent camera shake.

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
Keeping the still objects sharp while the water smoothed during this 4-second exposure required a tripod. It was shady and darker here, but I still needed an ND filter. Canon 6D with Canon 24-105mm lens, 4-seconds, f/20 ISO 50.

Those rules apply here. If you intend only to blur those things that move during your 5-second exposure, you’ll definitely need a tripod. However, there might be situations where you could make a 5-second exposure without one:

  • Your creative intent is to show some camera motion blur. A creative “swish-pan” is a good example.
  • No tripods are allowed where you are working. Crowded places, sports events, indoor locations or other places might not allow you to use a tripod. Come up with some workarounds – brace your camera against something, set it down on a bench or something, and use the 2-second timer for a hands-off shot. Maybe you could carry a beanbag or improvise with your jacket. If smaller variations of a tripod are allowed, things like a Gorillapod or Platypod might be the answer.
  • Consider mirror lockup to reduce vibration.

Exposure

You’re familiar with the “exposure triangle” right? If not, follow this link to learn about it. It is foundational knowledge for all serious photographers. Briefly, it states that all exposures are governed by three things, the “holy trinity” of photography:

  • Shutter speed (how long the sensor is exposed to light),
  • Aperture (the size of the hole through which light enters),
  • ISO (the sensitivity of the sensor to light).

Whether you are in Manual mode, Full Auto, or any other camera exposure mode, those three things are always at work. Now, if we’ve already decided we want a 5-second shutter speed, we’re left with just the other two to control our exposure.

ISO and Aperture – which?

You are likely going to want to choose one of two modes when practicing 5-second exposures: Full Manual (which will give you full control over all settings), or Shutter Priority (Tv on Canon and Pentax, S on Nikon and Sony).

Shutter priority lets you choose and lock in a shutter speed and then the camera adjusts aperture (the f/stop) and ISO (if you have that in Auto ISO). If not, ISO will be locked to whatever you set.

Now, you’ve locked in 5-seconds as your shutter speed, should you use Aperture, ISO, or maybe both to get the exposure right? Like so many things in photography, the answer is, “it depends.”

Let’s speak to ISO first. We’re trying to make a 5-second exposure. Doing so will allow quite a bit of light into the camera. So as not to overexpose the image, dialing down the ISO will help. Many cameras have 100 ISO as their lowest setting. Some can go down to 50 ISO. The benefit of lower ISO is less noise. So, set to the lowest ISO possible, yes? Sure, but that by itself may not get you there, and there are other considerations.

Let’s consider aperture.

Setting the aperture (remember the aperture is the “hole.” The term f/stop is the way we reference the “size of the hole.”) to a larger number, i.e. f/11, f/16, or f/22 will let in less light. That too may help us get that 5-second exposure.

Of course, changing aperture also affects the depth of field. We could also encounter a reduction of sharpness if we use the smallest apertures due to what is called “diffraction.”

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
Pre-sunrise. I didn’t have a lot of light to work with, so a slow shutter speed helped here. It also smoothed the water a bit at the inlet at the Coquille River Lighthouse in Bandon, Oregon. Canon 6D with Canon 24-105mm lens, 6 seconds, f/5.6, ISO 1600.

Proper exposure while considering the implications of each “leg of the exposure triangle” is always a juggling act. If you’re still a novice photographer who has always used automatic exposure settings, I might have lost you here. If so, I suggested you read up on these things:

  • Aperture
  • Shutter Speed
  • ISO
  • Exposure Triangle
  • Lens “Sweet Spot”
  • Depth of Field
  • Lens Diffraction

Cut the light

So, we have our shutter speed set at 5-seconds, our ISO at say 50, and an aperture of f/22. We check and see the image will still be overexposed. What now? Well, as we might put on sunglasses on a bright day to cut the amount of light coming into our eyes, in photography we use neutral-density (ND) filters.

These come in various grades of darkness. A rating system indicates how many stops of light they reduce. Each increase of ND 0.3 results in one additional stop of light reduction. So an ND 1.8 is a six-stop filter.

That means whatever a good exposure for the scene might be with no filter, putting such a filter on will allow you to adjust to the now correct exposure by six stops.

If all of this makes your head hurt, I suggest downloading a free ND calculator app (Android / iOS) which will tell you the settings you need.

Lee Filters (who makes a 6-stop ND filter called the “Little Stopper,” and a 10-stop filter called the “Big Stopper“) offers a nice free app. To use an example, if I had to shoot in bright daylight and the longest shutter speed I could use was at 1/200th of a second, using a 10-stop Big Stopper could get me down to that 5-second shutter speed.

Another option is a “variable ND filter.” These have two layered polarized filters, that when rotated, allow progressive darkening. They can be nice, but sometimes introduce weird visual artifacts, create color casts and such, particularly at darker settings and when using wider focal lengths. Do some research before you decide to buy one of these.

Standard circular polarizing filters can work to a degree as they will typically cut light by 1.5-2.5 stops. You can stack filters too, but a word of caution here – stacking filters runs the risk of vignetting the image, or worse, sometimes stacked filters can get stuck on the lens. This is a sure way to ruin your day. A filter wrench is a good tool to have in your kit.

ND filters can help you get a longer shutter speed if light conditions are bright.
In daylight conditions, even with a small aperture and low ISO, you might not be able to get to the longer shutter speed you’d like and have the proper exposure. ND filters which cut the light are often the answer. All of these photos were done with such a filter.

Suitable scenes

Okay, techy stuff out of the way. When and why might you want to take 5-second exposures? Let’s look at some example photos.

Flowing water

Use a slower shutter speed for silky water effects.
Silky water effects are a favorite with photographers. Slower shutter speeds allow you to get the look. Note the various shutter speeds on these images. A recommended practice is to bracket your moving water shots. The speed, volume, and proximity of the water to the camera will make a difference when finding that “just right” shutter speed to create the look you like.

Smooth water, streaked clouds

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
Whatever moves will blur during a longer exposure. Water, waves, and clouds will all have a different look. You need not always go for extra-long exposures either, note the shutter speeds on these were between 6 and 8 seconds.

Special Effects

A longer shutter speed buys you time when creating special effects looks.
A longer shutter speed buys you time for creating special effects photos. The “smoke” in the first shot is actually a piece of dental floss moved during the 6-second exposure. I used sparklers and laser pointers to create the other shots. Note the shutter speeds are all 4-seconds.

Fireworks

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
I find 6-second exposures are often just right when doing fireworks photos allowing capture of multiple bursts and a nice look.

Zoom during exposure

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
Longer shutter speeds allow you time to zoom the lens during the shot, producing the kinds of images in the first two photos. In the third image, it was the car that was doing the “zooming.”

Combining with flash

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
Combine a slower shutter speed with a pop of second-curtain-sync flash, and you get an image like this. The motion blurs during the ambient portion of the exposure, and the flash at the end freezes that part of the exposure. Second-curtain-sync flash shots are two-exposures in one. Canon 6D with Canon 24-105mm lens, 2-seconds, f/5.6, ISO 100.

Low light and night photography

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
Before sunrise, after sunset, dark days and nights – sometimes you go for a slower shutter speed because there’s not much light. Knowing when to “go slow” can make for some nice images. All of these are between 3.2 and 8 seconds.

Light painting

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
A longer shutter speed buys you time for light painting. The first image had a 4-second exposure, the second a 5-second exposure. Go read my article on this fun technique.

Lightning

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
When you don’t have a lightning trigger, you do it the old-fashioned way – Point your camera where you’ve been seeing the flashes and shoot many longer exposure shots. With luck, you’ll catch a bolt or maybe even several during a shot. Canon 6D with Canon 24-105mm lens, 4-seconds, f/9, ISO 800.

Now go “take five”

Fun 5-Second Photos - Using Long Exposures for Creative Images
Shooting into the sun, a six-stop ND filter was mandatory to get me to a 6-second shutter speed here. Canon 6D with Canon 24-105mm lens, 6-seconds, f/16, ISO 50.

So what is the “right” shutter speed to use? When making long exposures for creative images there is no absolute.

Use the shutter speed that best captures the vision you had when making the image. Learn to adjust aperture and ISO to get you to that speed you want and ND filters when you must. The key is taking control of your camera.

As a master painter knows exactly what brush and stroke to use, you as a photographer can make masterful photos when you know the right settings and controls to use. If you have not typically worked in the 5-second shutter speed range, use the photos in this article as inspiration. Now, go “take five.”

The post Fun 5-Second Photos – Using Long Exposures for Creative Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


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Creative Abstract Photography with Food Coloring and Milk

10 Apr

The post Creative Abstract Photography with Food Coloring and Milk appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

Creative Abstract Photography with Food Coloring and Milk featured image

Like any art form, photography thrives on experimentation. Creative abstract photography with food coloring and milk is a simple process, but it produces vibrant and immediate results. Using ingredients sourced from the pantry and the fridge, this is a fun project with plenty of room for creativity.

photography with food coloring and milk
f/5.0 1/125 ISO 100 x 2

A bit of history…

Ever since they were discovered, humans have been enamored by the creative possibilities of dyes. Dyed flax fibers found in the Republic of Georgia in a prehistoric cave have been dated to 36,000 years BP.

The earliest dyes were obtained from animal, mineral and vegetable sources. Rare resources that produce brilliant and permanent colors like Tyrian purple and crimson were highly sought-after in the ancient and medieval world. As technology progressed, so did artistic mediums, creating more accessible and safe dyes and pigments.

Creative Abstract Photography with Food Coloring and Milk
f/2.0 1/50 ISO 500

The practice of adding colorants to food itself is thought to have started in Ancient Egypt around 1500 BC. Candy makers would add wine and colored extracts to their wares to make them more visually appealing to customers.

Nowadays, a variety of safely consumable dyes are readily available in grocery stores, cooking shops, etc. The vibrancy and behavior of these colorants has fascinated many, with food dyes being adopted for artistic purposes too.

How to make abstract photography with food coloring and milk

You will need:

  • a camera with a macro lens or extension tubes etc
  • a tripod (optional)
  • 1/4 of a cup or so of plant-based or dairy milk
  • food dye in a range of colors
  • dish soap (optional)
  • a white dish or bowl
  • a mixing utensil or two
  • paper towel or a sponge or cloth to clean up any spills

Setting up

The first step to creating abstract photography with food coloring and milk is to prepare your canvas – the milk!

Sit your dish or bowl on a level surface exposed to a decent amount of natural light (or you could use flash).

Pour your plant-based or dairy milk into the dish so that the dish is covered by a few millimeters of liquid. Make sure you have a sponge or cloth at the ready to wipe up any spills.

food coloring and milk photography
f/5.6 1/200 ISO100

Next, set your camera up. You want it primed and ready for action as you drop the food dye into the milk.

For this project you can use a tripod to keep the camera steady, freeing up a hand to adjust the dye. You can also hand-hold your camera, whichever feels more comfortable. You can angle the camera any way you like, just as long as it is focused on the milk-filled dish.

Now for the dye!

Once your camera is ready, add a few drops of dye into the milk. Start taking photographs, gradually introducing more dye as needed.

As the dye spreads, try adding different colors to create a more layered effect. You can also stir the dye with a mixing utensil, cultivating intriguing shapes and forms.

Creative Abstract Photography with Food Coloring and Milk
F/8.0 1/125 ISO 400 | f/19.0 1/125 ISO 400

To create a sense of movement in your abstract creations, try blowing on the milk/dye through a straw, or fanning the concoction with a fan.

You can even add a little water, dish soap or vegetable oil to create separation within the dye and milk mixture.

Creative Abstract Photography with Food Coloring and Milk
f/8.0 1/125 ISO 400 | f/13.0 1/125 ISO 400

Once you are finished with a batch of food dye and milk, you can start again with a fresh bowl! Just remember to add the dye gradually so as not to over-saturate the mixture too quickly.

photography with food coloring and milk
f/3.5 1/250 ISO 400 | f/22 1/125 ISO 400

Conclusion

Photography with food coloring and milk renders visually fascinating results. With a few simple ingredients, photo-worthy abstract images are created in a whirl of unrepeatable patterns and layers.

I’d love you to try creating abstract photography with food coloring and milk and share your results in the comments below!

The post Creative Abstract Photography with Food Coloring and Milk appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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Shooting photos with anamorphic lenses is a fun way to get out of a creative rut

03 Apr

I’ve always been fascinated by anamorphic lenses, which optically compress, or ‘squeeze’, an image in the horizontal dimension, making it possible to capture an artificially wide field of view on a standard film frame or sensor.

I first discovered anamorphics in college, not because I shot with them but because I had a part time job as a projectionist at a small theater. Sometimes films came through in anamorphic format and I had to attach accessory lenses to the projector to desqueeze the image beamed up on the screen.

Fast forward a number of years. I’m still fascinated by anamorphic lenses, only now they’re becoming accessible enough to content creators that you don’t need to be a Hollywood filmmaker to afford them. One of these days I’ll get around to shooting an entire video project with anamorphics, but recently I’ve been intrigued by the possibility of using anamorphic lenses for still photography.

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Click the large image above to view the full sample gallery.

Which is why, on a recent trip to Washington, DC, I found myself carrying no camera gear except for my iPhone 11 Pro and two small anamorphic accessory lenses. I’d been in a creative rut for a while and needed a diversion, so I resolved to shoot in anamorphic for the entire trip. It turned out to be a fun creative challenge.

Shooting anamorphic on a smartphone

The two lenses I used for this little experiment were the Moment anamorphic lens ($ 150) and the Moondog Labs anamorphic lens (also $ 150), each of which compresses the horizontal dimension by a factor of 1.33x. Both employ a simple twist-lock M-series bayonet mount (not to be confused with Leica M-mount) and attach to compatible cases from a number of manufacturers including Moment, RhinoShield and Sirui.

The Moondog Labs (L) and Moment (R) anamorphic lenses. Both squeeze the image horizontally by a factor of 1.33x, which is what makes the exit pupils appear oval in this image.

These lenses are primarily aimed at video shooters. When used with standard 16:9 format video they deliver a desqueezed aspect ratio of 2.35:1, about the same as CinemaScope, a widescreen cinema format originally developed in the 1950s.

Shooting still photos, however, requires some creative choices. The native aspect ratio for photos on most smartphones is 4:3, so a 1.33x desqueeze works out to an aspect ratio of almost exactly 16:9.

Of course, if you can already shoot in 16:9, why bother? Because anamorphic lenses provide a qualitatively differently look than simply cropping the frame. You’re effectively using a longer focal length but capturing the horizontal field of view of a shorter focal length, giving you more control over depth of field than you would typically have at that shorter focal length. Additionally, anamorphic lenses produce some distinctive optical effects, such as oval bokeh and horizontal lens flare.

Anamorphic lenses provide a qualitatively differently look than simply cropping the frame.

Of course, when working with a smartphone you would need to be pretty close to your subject to have any appreciable control over depth of field or to generate much bokeh, but there’s certainly the opportunity to create horizontal lens flare.

In the end I settled on a hybrid approach: I set my phone to shoot 16:9 in combination with a 1.33x anamorphic lens. This results in that wide 2.35:1 CinemaScope look, so that’s the route I went.

Shooting in anamorphic

Almost as soon as I began shooting I realized there were more choices to make. Should I shoot Raw or JPEG? Would it be better to use the iPhone’s built-in camera app or a third party app designed for anamorphic lenses? Let the experimentation begin!

Use the slider to compare the desqueezed image (L) with the squeezed image (R). The desqueeze process can be performed automatically by an apps, or in post-processing with a program like Photoshop.

The built-in camera app was the easiest way to get started, and ensured that I was taking advantage of all the wizardry of the iPhone’s computational photography. However, there was one downside: there’s no way to desqueeze the image in-camera. The image is always compressed horizontally, so you need to pre-visualize what the desqueezed photo will look like when framing a shot.

It’s not difficult, but it’s still not as natural as viewing a desqueezed image in real time, so I tried a couple third party apps designed to do just that: Filmic Firstlight (iOS, Android) and Moment Pro Camera (iOS).

Both are feature-rich photography apps that display a desqueezed image preview when shooting and include useful tools like manual controls, focus peaking, zebras, Raw image capture and the ability to export TIFF files.

The Moment Pro Camera app provides a real time desqueezed image preview, making it easier to compose photos.

The most noticeable difference I found is that the Moment app obscures parts of the image behind various camera controls, whereas the the Filmic app does not. As a result, I slightly preferred the Filmic app, but beyond that one issue they provide similar feature sets. They’re both good apps and the one you prefer will mostly come down to personal preference.

The Filmic Firstlight app provides similar functionality to the Moment app, but doesn’t obscure your image behind the camera controls.

Workflow and image quality

The workflow is far easier with third party apps since you can see what your final image will look like when shooting, and photos are desqueezed before being saved to the camera roll: no additional work required.

In contrast, photos shot using the built-in camera app require an additional processing step to desqueeze them. It was easy enough to create a Photoshop action to do this in bulk, but it meant a little extra work and some delayed gratification.

The workflow is far easier with third party apps since you can see what your final image will look like when shooting.

After experimenting with various combinations of app, file format and desqueeze methods, I learned some useful things:

The Filmic and Motion apps are more fun to shoot with thanks to real time previews of the anamorphic image. It’s more intuitive and you don’t need to imagine what the final shot will look like. They also make it easy to share photos in the moment instead of waiting until later.

Anamorphic accessory lenses allow you to capture classic anamorphic characteristics like horizontal lens flares.

iPhone 11 Pro with Moment anamorphic lens.

For the most part, desqueezed Raw images generally didn’t look any better than JPEGs from the iPhone’s native app, even after being stretched out. I expected this for photos taken in low light since the native app can do some exposure stacking, but it turned out to be true in most of the comparisons I tried.

Images captured with the native iPhone app and desqueezed in Photoshop generally looked a tiny bit better than the files from the Filmic and Motion apps. It’s possible the those apps don’t have access to quite the same computational wizardry as the native app, or it might just be that Photoshop does a better desqueeze.

Either way, the differences aren’t significant. As a result, I often found myself using the third party apps for a more enjoyable experience.

The greatest limitation on image quality are the lenses themselves. They’re really intended for video use, so it feels a bit unfair to judge them critically as still lenses. Keeping that in mind, you’re going to see flaws that wouldn’t be nearly as noticeable in a moving image.

iPhone 11 Pro with Moondog Labs anamorphic lens.

Overall, the Moondog and Moment optics performed similarly; as with any accessory lens, neither provides the level of optical clarity found on your smartphone’s built-in lenses. Once you add a desqueeze step that stretches the image horizontally, you’re going to start seeing artifacts. In fact, if you pixel peep the images in this article you’ll almost certainly be disappointed

Final thoughts

None of the anamorphic photos I shot with these lenses will win awards for technical image quality, but that really wasn’t the point of the experiment. Using them forced me to think differently about the way I composed and framed shots, and that’s always a good creative exercise.

Ignoring the optical limitations of the lenses for still photography, I really like the wide, cinematic aspect ratio. I was also pleased that I was able to provoke at least one of the distinctive characteristics anamorphics are known for, horizontal lens flare.

Now, couldn’t you just use the widest angle lens on your smartphone and crop to 2.35:1? Of course you could, but it won’t look quite the same. You’ll often hear cinematographers talk about the characteristics of a particular lens instead of how technically perfect it is, and even on a smartphone these anamorphic lenses result in a different look than you’ll get by cropping. Is it technically perfect? Definitely not, but it can be a lot of fun to visualize the world in a slightly different way.

iPhone 11 Pro with Moment anamorphic lens.

What this experience taught me is that I want to shoot more photos using anamorphic lenses. It’s not something that a lot of people do, but it challenges your creativity and presents an opportunity to create unique images. For my next experiment, I’m planning to kick it up a notch and pair a larger anamorphic lens with a mirrorless camera. That should allow me to take better advantage of unique anamorphic characteristics related to depth of field.

Want to try this this yourself? It’s a fun experiment that you can do on your own. All you need is an anamorphic accessory lens and a case with a compatible mount. In addition to the Moondog and Moment lenses I tried, there are similar lenses available from Sandmarc, BeastGrip and Ulanzi, and cases from Moment, RhinoShield and Sirui. If you give it a try let me know how it works and send me a link to your photos!

View the full anamorphic sample gallery

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