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Successfully Copy Photos from Your Memory Card to your Computer

02 May

Before you can begin editing your photos you need to get them safely off your camera and onto your computer. Unfortunately this process is often hijacked by (well-meaning if misguided) software which purports to do the work for you but leaves you wondering just where your photos really are! So, to help you understand your options for getting your photos onto your computer, here’s what I recommend.

First of all: Take Charge!

The first thing to understand about getting photos from your camera card or camera onto your computer is that you’re in charge. Any application that opens and tries to grab your photos for you can be closed down. If it is not the application you want to use then do just that – close it.

Now you can take charge and manage the process in a way that makes sense for you.

Choose your application

If you’re using Photoshop then you can use Bridge to import your photos. If you are using Lightroom then you can launch Lightroom and import your photos using it. If you don’t have either program, or if you prefer to manage the process yourself, you can do so using Finder on the Mac or Windows Explorer on a PC. I’ll cover this process first, then look at Bridge and Lightroom.

Importing using Finder or Windows Explorer

import-photos-using-Windows-1When attached to your computer, a camera or memory card works like any drive, so you can view its contents. You can also copy photos from the memory card onto your computer’s hard drive manually using Explorer or Finder.

On a PC, if the AutoPlay dialog appears when you insert your camera card or attach your camera, choose the Open Folder to View Files option.

If the dialog doesn’t appear, simply launch Windows Explorer and select the drive that represents your camera or memory card.

Navigate to the folder that contains your photos – there may be multiple folders depending on how your camera stores images on the card. You can select the photos, then drag and drop them to the folder of your choice. It’s often easier if you first open the target folder in a second Windows Explorer window so you can drag from one to the other.

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The process is similar using Finder on the Mac. If iPhoto launches – stop it from downloading any photos and close it. Then you can drag photos from your camera card open in one Finder window, to a folder of your choice open in a second window.

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Importing Photos using Bridge

If you are using Photoshop, launch Adobe Bridge and choose File > Get Photos from Camera. Click the button to open the Advanced Dialog.

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From the “Get Photos from” drop down list select the drive letter that corresponds to your camera or card.

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You can now see and select the photos to import. This is one benefit of using Bridge over Windows Explorer – you will see thumbnail images of your raw files so you can see what you are importing.

On the right of the dialog select the folder in which to place the images. Typically this will be inside your My Pictures folder on your computer but you can choose any location that makes sense to you. However, if you want to find your photos later, on it is essential that you pay attention to the choices you make here.

import-photos-using-bridge-3Once you have selected the folder to import the images into, you can, if desired, select a subfolder. In this way you can group photos by shoot, date or something that makes sense to you.  Bridge will create the folder for you if it doesn’t exist, so choose an option from the Create Subfolder(s) list and, if required, type a name for it or choose the date to use – either the capture date or today’s date. If you don’t want to organize photos in a subfolder then click None.

import-photos-using-bridge-4You can also select to rename files on import, or not. Choose Do not rename files if you don’t want them renamed or alternatively select a naming convention from the list.

If you have advanced naming requirements for which the dialog does not provide an appropriate choice, scroll to the bottom of the list and click Advanced Rename to open the Advanced Rename dialog where you can create quite complex naming conventions. Whatever choice you make check the entry just below the dialog where Bridge shows you an example of the naming convention in place so you can check to see if it is what you want.

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In the Advanced Options area you can choose other options including Convert to DNG – which is handy if your camera captures in a manufacturer specific format such as CRW, NEF, PEF and so on, but you prefer to work with DNG files. Select this option and Bridge will do the conversion for you.

You can also select Delete Original Files although this is not recommended. It’s best to make sure that the images are correctly copied onto your computer before the originals are deleted so I suggest you leave this option disabled.

Bridge offers a backup option so it will make a copy of your photos on import. To do this, click the “Save Copies To:” checkbox and select an alternate location (such as an external drive) in which to save a copy of your photos.

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If you have a metadata template already created you can select this from the Apply Metadata drop down list.

In future you can create such a metadata template in Bridge by selecting Tools > Create Metadata Template. I suggest that you complete the IPTC Core Data for Creator as well as Copyright Notice, Copyright Status and Rights Usage Terms. Also complete the Type Of Source entry in the IPTC Extension group. When completed this will give you a good all round metadata preset to apply to all your images. For more information on IPTC Copyright Metadata check out this article: Lightroom: Add your IPTC metadata on Import.

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When you have your import settings selected and configured to meet your needs click Get Media to import the images.

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You will see a dialog showing you the progress of the import process.

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Importing Photos using Lightroom

If you’re using Lightroom then it is the obvious choice for managing the process of importing photos from your camera or memory card. From the Library module click Import, then select the source in the top left corner of the Import dialog.

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Across the top of the screen you will see only two choices, Copy as DNG and Copy. This reflects the fact that you’re importing images from a camera card or camera – the options Move and Add are not available for this process (if you do see Move and Add as available options, it appears that Lightroom isn’t recognizing your camera or camera card correctly and even though they may be available you should not use either of these choices).

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Next, open the File Handling panel on the right of the screen and select the kind of preview to create – Standard is a good choice. You can choose Build Smart Previews or not (if you’re unsure, check Build Smart Previews).

Checking Don’t Import Suspected Duplicates will ensure that Lightroom doesn’t import images again, that you’ve already previously imported. This is one feature available in Lightroom which is not also available in Bridge.

In Lightroom you can also choose to make a backup by making a second copy of your photos to an alternate location as you import them.

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File Renaming panel allows you to rename images on import – you can select from a range of naming templates and even create your own. Here I’ve chosen to use the Custom Name – Sequence template so I’ve typed the Custom name and the sequence is set to start at 1:

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The Apply During Import panel has an option for applying metadata to the image upon import. Unlike Bridge the drop down list for Metadata presets also includes an option New which you can use to create your own metadata preset. I suggest you complete the IPTC Copyright and IPTC Creator details, and in the IPTC Extension Administrative select Original digital capture from a real live scene from the Digital Source Type drop down list. Type a name for the preset and from the Present drop down list click Save current settings as new preset.

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In the Destination panel you’ll need to select the location into which the images are to be copied. If you’re copying them to your hard drive then typically you’ll select your C drive, then your My Pictures folder which should be in your Users area.

If you save your images to an external drive then select the external drive and the folder into which the images should be imported.

If the folder does not exist you can create a subfolder on import by selecting the Into Subfolder checkbox and type a name for the folder that Lightroom should create to import the images into.

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From the Organize drop down list you can select to put the images into this folder (Into one Folder) or to organize them by date. Whichever choice you make you can see a preview of what’s going to happen in the folder list, allowing you to check and make sure that everything is going to be imported and arranged to your requirements before you go ahead and complete the import process.

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When you’re ready to import the images click Import.

Whatever process you choose to use for getting images off your camera card onto your computer the acid test for whether it is a good system or not will be if you can find your images later on. Also be aware that it’s advisable to make a backup copy of your images in case your computer is stolen, damaged or your hard disk crashes. For this reason a backup on a removable external drive is a sensible choice.

Having an import routine that you understand, and can reliably execute, is a necessary first step for any photographer. The worst possible scenario is to have copied your images from your camera card to your computer and erased them from your card, only to discover that you cannot find the images. It’s a scenario that way too many users have encountered – don’t let it happen to you!

Find a video version of this blog post here:

Do you have any other copy and import tips? Please share in the comments below.

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The post Successfully Copy Photos from Your Memory Card to your Computer by Helen Bradley appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Electronic Autopsy: 24 Sculptures Made of Computer Parts

29 Apr

[ By Steph in Art & Sculpture & Craft. ]

circuit art mandala 4

Art made of salvaged circuit boards and other computer parts put what is normally hidden on full display in a sort of autopsy of our consumerist society, highlighting how quickly the things we create become obsolete. Is our obsession with technology a sign of our achievements as a species, or a festering problem threatening to overtake the natural world? These artists are all working with unwanted components, but have different takes on the issue of electronic waste.

Computer Bugs by Julie Alice Chappell

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CIRCUIT ART 1

Pesky metaphorical computer bugs are made literal when artist Julie Alice Chappell transforms reclaimed circuit boards from electronics into little winged insects. The project started when Chappell discovered a box of tiny electronic components at a ‘craft bank’ in Portsmouth, England, instantly seeing the bodies and legs of bugs. Chappell hopes her work will raise awareness about the problem of electronic waste.

Technological Mandalas by Leonardo Ulian

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Circuitry and microchips come together into intricately arranged, perfectly symmetrical mandalas in the work of London-based artist Leonardo Ulian. “With the Technological Mandala series I combined the suggestive and spiritual meaning of the Indian Mandalas with something that has been perceived as far from that sphere of influence, technology,” says Ulian. “The search of perfection as necessity within the electronics industry has stimulated my curiosity to produce this series of pieces in order toe locate that specific need. I wanted to show what has been hidden from the eyes of the consumer, representing electronic circuits as extraordinary objects where the perfection of the design can become almost something ethereal.”

Ornate Rug Made from Computer Parts by Federico Uribe

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You won’t be getting too comfortable on this particular rug by Federico Uribe, which consists of thousands of tiny, sharp electronic components. The mixed-media piece, which mimics the patterns on traditional Persian carpets, measures 22 by 12 feet. Uribe specializes in making art from unwanted ‘waste’ objects as well as everyday items found in the home.

Next Page – Click Below to Read More:
Electronic Autopsy 24 Sculptures Made Of Computer Parts

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[ By Steph in Art & Sculpture & Craft. ]

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Photography Workflow Tips – From Memory Card to Computer and Beyond

06 Nov

Discover the best workflow protocol for safe long-term file storage, and efficient file retrieval.

“Be willing to give that extra effort that separates the winner from the one in second place” – H. Jackson Brown Jr.

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All images copyright Gina Milicia – Playing your cards right means having a consistent workflow, which leads to safer long-term file storage and efficient file retrieval. Photo credits: Promo shoot for Fat Tony and Co. Image courtesy Nine Network Australia

“Respect your efforts, respect yourself. Self-respect leads to self-discipline. When you have both firmly under your belt, that’s real power.” – Clint Eastwood

It’s very easy to become lazy and a bit sloppy with post-production workflow protocols. If you are like many people I know, then you are currently downloading your files to a folder marked “downloads” or “photos” or “John”. Inside this folder you may have hundreds, perhaps thousands of images with file names like 5U9D2496.jpeg or 5U9D2497.CR2. This is all perfectly fine if you never want to see those images again but what if in five years time you need to find those images again?

Following a constant workflow protocol will save you hours of valuable time and also prevent potential heartbreak caused from lost files.

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An overview of the workflow tips:

  1. Import the images from your camera (first backup)
  2. Backup to portable hard drive (second backup)
  3. Backup to external hard drive (third backup)
  4. Editing
  5. Final backup
  6. Delivery

Workflow tips – step by step

“Success is the sum of small efforts, repeated day in and day out.” – Robert Collier

Step 1: Import the images from your camera (backup #1)

You can get the images off the memory card in a few different ways. Here are the pros and cons of each method.

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Instant gratification: In this image I’m shooting tethered on a photo shoot for Australian entertainer Todd Mckenney (pictured second from left) and makeup artist extraordinaire, Fotini Hatzis (far right) with stylist to the stars Louise Petch (far left).

Shooting tethered to your laptop

I shoot about 70 percent of my work tethered (connected to my laptop) and it’s my preferred way of shooting. I have a memory card in the camera but the images are being downloaded straight to my laptop via image capture software. The memory card is just a backup.

My preferred software for viewing images as I shoot is Phase One Capture One. I use Capture One to view my files because it’s very fast and I’ll often have several people crowded around the computer waiting to see the image. In these cases a couple of seconds can make all the difference.

Shooting straight to memory card

MemoryCards 5

This shoot with Australian model, Mimi Elashiry was shot on location in Paris. It was photographed at dawn to avoid the crowds and I needed to work quickly in order to get all my shots done before the light became too hard and the crowds became an issue. This is a perfect situation for me to shoot straight to card.

I will shoot straight to a memory card when I can’t have my laptop with me. Like, on remote locations, in extreme weather conditions, at press conferences, at events where I need to be mobile or I’m on stage photographing someone.

I carry a special cardholder that is clearly marked “To be downloaded” and stored away from my gear. This way, if my camera bag is lost or stolen (or the day gets a bit frantic) before I’ve downloaded all the memory cards, I won’t lose my files.

The images are then downloaded to my laptop using a memory card reader via Capture One.

I use RAW capture software at this stage because it’s crucial to check my exposures and expressions as I work. I’m also often working with art directors, magazine editors, fashion designers or publicists who want to view the images straight away.

All images stay as RAW files. This step is simply for checking, viewing and selecting (tagging) images.

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Some people will prefer to copy the images directly onto their computer desktop and use other software. I choose Capture One because for most of my shoots, my clients are right next to me and we’re making sure we’ve got the shot. I’ve also got an assistant double-checking the technical aspects of the shots.

Capture One lets me handle the process simply and quickly, and the software is easy enough for clients to use. Lightroom works just as well but when I’m shooting thousands of images, I don’t like the interface. It’s a personal preference, that’s all.

As long as you can organize, select and name your files at this point in the workflow – use whatever works for you.

The memory card that has just been downloaded to my laptop is then put aside and not reused that day. This works really well when I’m shooting across multiple cards as it prevents any card being wiped, accidentally.

I never leave a memory card in the camera, always removing the last card at the end of a shoot. This is another way of protecting my files and prevents me, or anyone else assistants, from accidentally deleting files.

Renaming images

Now back to all those images you have sitting in a folder marked “Photos” or “John” or they may be roaming free across your desktop and stored wherever they happen to land when you download them. I call this the “shoebox file storage system”. Everything gets stuffed in one place without any thought to ever having to retrieve the information again.

For the sake of your own sanity, I beg you to not ignore this section.

I rename images when I download the files from the camera to my laptop.

My shoots often have very fast turnaround times with art directors, publicists, or clients choosing their images during or at the end of a shoot. Having the files already in an organized and consistent structure saves everyone a lot of time and hassle.

  • Images for private clients are renamed as:
    Folder name: Client name + year
    Filename: Client surname_first initial+last 2 digits of year_4 digit counter
  • So my shoot for James Brown in July 2014 would be named:
    Folder name: James Brown 2014
    Filename: Brown_J14_0001.CR2
  • Images for companies are renamed as:
    Folder name: Company + job + year
    Filename: Company_job+last 2 digits of year_4 digit counter
  • So when I shoot the next Nutella® Winter campaign (Dear Nutella® I’m available and will work for product. Call me.) I would create the folder and files as follows:
    Folder name: Nutella Winter 2014
    Filename: Nutella_Winter14_0001.CR2

This naming system allows me to search by folder or file and find shoot quickly and efficiently.

Step 2: Backup to portable hard drive (backup #2)

I backup my RAW files onto a portable external hard drive every hour. During a full day shoot I may end up with 3000-5000 files so I need to make sure they are secure as I go.

Step 3: Backup in the office (backup #3)

When I get back to my office, I copy the images from the external portable hard drive I used at the shoot onto one of three working hard drives. In this case, I copy them on to working hard drive A.

At this point in my workflow I have the entire shoot in three locations: my laptop, an external portable hard drive and working hard drive A. The shoot stays in all three locations until the job is delivered.

I only use hard drives that are two or three terabytes in size because I don’t want everything on one single hard drive.

I don’t use cloud storage mainly because my files are just too big. My website has storage for my final processed images and I use my website to deliver images to my clients. I trust the business hosting my website but if anything should happen, I still have the files on two other hard drives.

Step 4: Editing

I edit my images using Adobe® Photoshop® or Lightroom, or a combination of both, and the edited versions are saved to working hard drive A.

Step 5: Archiving

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Once post-production is complete I copy all my files onto working hard drive B, which is stored in an off-site location for safety.

If you think this is overkill, remember: memory cards corrupt, laptops crash and hard drives fail. Protect your work with as many backups as you can.

As a minimum, save your images in two different locations. Keep one with you, and store the other in a safe location off site. This way if disaster strikes you will still have a backup copy of your precious files.

Step 6: Deliver

Nearly all my jobs are delivered as electronic files with the exception of a small percentage of clients (about 5%) who require prints.

The images they have selected are delivered via file transfer protocol (FTP), my website image archive (I use Photoshelter), DVD or an external hard drive.

Editor’s note: your version of “deliver” might look like sharing photos online in social media, emailing a couple to friends, or making prints for yourself.

What are some of your favorite workflow protocols? Do you have any great workflow, storage and delivery techniques you’d like to share? How do you safely store your memory cards before you download them? I’d love to hear about them.

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Workout Computer: Get Fit with a Punching Bag Keyboard

06 Nov

[ By Steph in Gaming & Computing & Technology. ]

workout computer 1

Combine two seemingly disparate activities – working at a computer, and working out – with a keyboard that consists of a series of punching bags representing each character. ‘Workout Computer’ by design studio BLESS makes typing up a document a full-body, muscle-engaging effort for an experience that’s the polar opposite of most sedentary, seated working environments.

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Punch, kick or step on each component to write out a paragraph, and then hit the ‘print’ bag to preserve what you’ve composed. Intending to blur the boundaries between work and leisure activities, making the act of typing on a computer far more physical, the computer encourages increased activity to keep office workers from going soft.

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The installation was presented at the second Istanbul Design Biennial, inviting passersby to experience it themselves. The users watch their chosen letters pop up on the computer screen, and then wait for it to be printed at the end of their impromptu boxing session. “Personally we would love to be, at the end of the working day, physically as exhausted as mentally,” the designers told Dezeen.

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Birthday Gifts That Will Separate Your 7 Year-Old From His Computer Games

06 Oct

Kids fondness for computer games is raising concerns among parents. The exponential growth of video game industry has made the already arduous job of parenting even tougher. Although there is nothing wrong with some video game time once in a while, but to witness billions of kids whose faces are glued to the screen, evokes doleful feelings. Watching your kid roll around on the floor dribbling to the screen completely distracted from learning anything useful, is not a very pleasant sight!

The key to fending off such an addiction is by spending more time with your kids while they play the game and gravely practicing parental guidance. Another way is by involving your kid in other activities that are worthwhile in the child’s growth and development. The best way to bring out a new activity to a child is by using his or her birthday present. Birthday presents are extremely special- they stimulate, inspire, excite kids and hey are also bound to try these gifts. Given below are some wonderful gifts that can capture your 7 year old kids imagination

Classic Board Games
Children love playing classic board games! Most of them are timeless and can be enjoyable for children of any age. Such games provide opportunities for developing positive attitudes, building self concept and alleviating the fear of error and failure. Scrabble and Monopoly are the well known ones. You must also participate with them so that they feel they always have someone to play with.

scrabble

A Music Instrument
It gives your child an opportunity for creativity and also inculcates in him or her discipline, self-esteem and passion for music. There is a plethora of such instruments, but you must help them choose the one they like. Your personal preferences will guide your child on what he or she likes.

music

Sport Equipment
Sport is fundamental to the early development of children. Many of them love playing sports at a very young age with proper guidance. Through participation, they can learn about teamwork, honesty, fair play and respect for themselves and others. As parents, you must encourage them by gifting sport equipments that they can use.

balls

A Scooter Or A Bike
Bikes and scooters are fun toys. Children love zipping around on them there are 2 main brands ezip and Razor. You must consider products such as the razor e100 electric scooter and the ezip e500 electric scooter, to check if it is a good product for your child. You can also find detailed information on the product in fan sites and reviews from parents who bought it. You can also explore buggies and other such adorable ride-on toys.

scooter

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iStick allows for easy image transfer from iPhone to computer

31 May

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While most Android and Windows Phone devices act like external drives when connected to a computer with a USB-cable, transferring photos and files to and from an iOS device is a little more tricky. This is where the iStick, a Kickstarter project comes in. iStick is a USB-drive with an integrated Apple Lightning connector, making it compatible with more recent iPhone, iPad and iPod generations. 

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Younity lets smartphones access photos stored on your computer

16 Feb

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While other phone-to-computer services require syncing a select set of files to ‘the cloud’, a service called Younity offers mobile access to all your photos and other files via direct access. The company’s new iOS app allows users to connect to and browse the contents of computers and connected hard drives over the airwaves. Click to learn more.

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Lego Blocks + iPad = Classic 1984 Macintosh Computer

24 Dec

[ By Steph in Technology & Vintage & Retro. ]

Lego iPad Classic Macintosh

Technology comes full circle thanks to an iPad and a creative usage of Lego blocks. Oslo-based designers Jason Kinsella and Charlotte Bakken recreated a classic 1984 Macintosh computer with a modern twist, turning the light and sleek tablet into a bulky retro monitor.

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The stop-motion film above shows how the technology/toy mashup was created, complete with a floppy disk slot and old school Macintosh logo.

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The iPad simply slides in from the side, making the Lego housing a cool-looking place to dock the iPad so you can read or watch a movie.

Lego iPad Classic Macintosh 4

The project brings Apple back to its early years, emphasizing how the brand has evolved over the past three decades. Of course, the Lego monitor is actually much smaller than the original, since it has to accommodate the comparatively miniature screen of the iPad.

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Can computer corrections make simple lenses look good?

30 Sep

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Modern lenses tend to be large and expensive, with multiple glass elements combining to minimise optical aberrations. But what if we could just use a cheap single-element lens, and remove those aberrations computationally instead ? This is the question scientists at the University of British Columbia are asking, and they’ve come up with a way of improving images from a simple single element lens that gives pretty impressive results. Click through to read more.  

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Use Computer Errors to Make Your Photos Amazing.

09 Aug

Photos: Maria_Naverno, JuanCarlos87, Stasyaposhkute, Brianvw1, Juliefab.

Datamoshing sounds kinda like that fun thing you used to do when Slipknot came on the radio in 2002.

While pushing some punks around is totally fun, pushing pixels is fun and less likely to get you elbowed in the face.

So how do you push the pixels around in your photos? Glitché. It’s an app that lets you warp your photos using computer errors and bugs.

You get to pick from eight different types of glitches, each of which you can manipulate to your liking. Swirl, tap, and paint different effects like slit-scanning, 3D renderings (!!!), psychedelic color inversions, and datamoshing.

Within a few minutes of your first glitches, you’ll see why some call Glitché “the Instagram for digital psychedelia.”

In other glitch news, Year of the Glitch is selling glitch art blankets (Thnx, Doc!).

Glitché — Turn Phone Photos into Glitch Art [Thnx, Darby!]

p.s. We’re hiring for an amazing opening at Photojojo. Apply and learn more to be our Editorial & Community Lead.

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  3. Turn your Computer and Webcam into a Photo booth with Cameroid and Phozi Sure your camera’s got 17 megapixels, a 10x zoom, and…


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