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Posts Tagged ‘Better’

Sony a7C vs Sony a7 III: Which is better?

04 Nov

Introduction

Sony’s a7C is an attempt at a compact full-frame camera that retains the capability of a larger model. It has an awful lot in common with the still-available a7 III, with sensor, processor and most key specifications shared between the two models.

However, while the $ 1800 launch price of the a7C is $ 200 lower than that of the a7 III, the bigger camera has been on the market for more than two years longer and consequently sells for much less in many places.

So which camera is better for your needs?

What’s the same?

An awful lot of the specs and capabilities of the two cameras are a match: 5-axis stabilized 24MP BSI CMOS sensors, Bionz X processors, 10 fps shooting and 8-bit 4K video capture from the full width of those sensors.

The cameras have the same basic menu layout and the same touchscreen implementation, only really using the screen to position the AF point. Both offer Wi-Fi, with the a7C gaining the ability to use the 5Ghz band, both also have NFC for making a fast connection but, though they each include Bluetooth, both use it solely for transferring GPS data, rather than maintaining a constant smartphone connection.

So, in terms of broad capability, there’s not much to choose between them, but once you dig into the details, there may be differences that mean it comes down to more than simply price versus compactness for you.

What’s different – Autofocus

One of the biggest differences is the behavior of the cameras’ autofocus systems. The a7C has the latest version of Sony’s AI-trained subject recognition system, which is fully integrated into the main AF system. If you choose the tracking variant of one of its AF area modes, the camera will confidently stay glued to that subject, regardless of how the subject and camera move, relative to one another.

If the subject is human it will engage body, head, face or eye-detection as appropriate. It can perform a similar trick for certain types of animal, if you tell it to prioritize such subjects.

The a7 III is pretty good but not quite as polished, by comparison. Eye-AF works very well but the AF system won’t necessarily continue to track that same subject if they look away. Its subject tracking is also less dependable, and tries to follow the whole subject, not necessarily the part of the subject you’ve specified, making it less precise and less predictable than the a7C’s system.

What’s different – Viewfinder

Another really significant difference is the viewfinders. Although both have relatively low resolution (for modern cameras costing this much), the a7 III has a larger viewfinder panel with optics that combine to provide decent 0.78x magnification. That’s as big as the finders on pro sports DSLRs.

The viewfinder on the a7C uses a smaller panel and achieves a rather paltry 0.59x magnification, which is more directly comparable with a mid-range APS-C DSLR. In addition to its small size, the a7C’s finder has little in the way of an eye-cup: it’s got a thin rubber surround for comfort (and the avoidance of scratches for glasses wearers), but nothing to stop light from around the finder reaching your eye. This is probably the biggest concession made to keeping the camera small.

What’s different – Size

The most significant difference, though, is the a7C’s size, compared with the a7 III. It’s a significantly smaller camera, especially when paired with the retractable 28-60mm F4-5.6 kit zoom.

This isn’t enough to make the a7C pocketable by any means, but means it can operate as a package that’s much easier to have with you at all times. This benefit is greatly reduced if you fit one of the system’s larger lenses, such as the do-everything 24-105mm F4, but there are options, such as the 35mm F1.8 and 85mm F1.8 that keep the combination small and allow the camera to show its full strength.

What’s different – ergonomics

The a7C’s reduction in size also means a change in ergonomics. Impressively, the smaller camera still finds room for two command dials and a dedicated exposure comp dials, as well as a prominent AF-On button on the back. The downside is that all three dials are positioned to be controlled by your thumb. So, while it’s possible to access, say, aperture, shutter speed and exposure compensation without the need for button pressing, it requires a degree of hand-re-positioning, which slows the process down.

By comparison, the a7 III has front and rear command dials, that allow thumb-and-forefinger control without repositioning your hand. It too has an exposure compensation dial and a command dial on the rear face of the camera, if you need to control more than two parameters on-the-fly. The a7 III also has an AF joystick, though doesn’t benefit from the larger AF-On button we’ve seen on more recent Sonys. The a7C’s AF system doesn’t demand the use of an AF joystick very often, but it’s something a lot of photographers feel is nice to have.

What’s different – Shutter

A less visible difference between the two cameras is their use of different shutter mechanisms. The a7 III has a conventional mechanical shutter with the option to use an electronic first curtain to reduce the risk of shutter shock, and a silent, fully electronic mode.

The a7C only has a mechanical return shutter, meaning it can only offer electronic first curtain or fully electronic modes. The use of EFCS reduces the risk of shake at moderate shutter speeds but can also have a damaging impact on out-of-focus rendering if used at very high shutter speeds and a wide-aperture (we only saw the slightest impact at 1/4000 sec and F1.8, for instance). The bigger restriction might be that the new shutter is limited to 1/160 sec flash sync speed and 1/4000 sec maximum shutter speed, though e-shutter extends to 1/8000 sec if your subject and lighting will allow.

What’s different – Video

For the most part, the a7C and a7 III have very, very similar video specifications. Both cameras shoot oversampled 4K/24p from the full width of their sensors, or have to crop-in slightly for 30p. Both offer the ability to shoot S-Log2 and S-Log3 or some versions of the HLG curve designed for use on HDR TVs, but all video modes are captured in 8-bit, which limits the flexibility of the footage.

What’s different is the AF performance in video mode. Frustratingly you need to change the touchscreen settings and tap a subject to access subject tracking but it works extremely well, and uses the full face/eye/body recognition capabilities. The a7 III uses a less sophisticated AF system that requires more button pressing to engage tracking and tends not to be as dependable, once you have.

Conclusion

At its most simple, there’s so much that’s similar about the a7 III and a7C, that the main factors to choose between them are compactness and price. If you don’t need or appreciate the smaller form-factor of the a7C or you expect to use larger lenses, you may well decide that the less-expensive a7 III is a better choice.

Equally, the larger viewfinder and more DSLR-like dial setup may make the a7 III’s ergonomics preferable to some photographers.

However, the a7C’s autofocus is meaningfully better than that of the older camera, both in performance and ease-of-use which, combined with its smaller body, compact kit lens and impressive battery life, make it a really powerful option for travel. It all comes down to what you plan to do with your camera.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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It’s great, but the Max should be even better: iPhone 12 Pro camera review round-up

21 Oct

Today is the day a number of reviewers are allowed to share their first thoughts on Apple’s new iPhone 12 Pro, the smaller of the company’s two latest flagship mobile devices announced last week. While we haven’t had the chance to take one for a spin yet, we’ve rounded up a few reviews from across the web to see what others’ opinions on the photographic capabilities of the new iPhone devices are.

From more general tech-centric reviews, such as The Verge’s Nilay Patel’s, to photo-specific reviews such as Austin Mann’s in-depth dive, we’ve tried to gather a nice spread of opinions. Overall, the consensus seems to be that while the iPhone 12 Pro is at the top of its game in the photography department, the iPhone 12 Pro Max will likely pack even more punch with its better camera specifications—so long as you don’t mind the extra bulk.

Over the coming days, as more reviewers get units in their hands, we’ll add those to this round-up. If there’s a review (or two) you think we missed, leave it a link the comments below.

Austin Mann

You can’t talk about annual iPhone camera reviews without mentioning Mann’s thorough deep dives. He’s spent some time with Apple’s latest iOS devices while camping out of an Airstream in Glacier National Park, Montana and has wrapped up his thoughts on the photographic capabilities of the iPhone 12 Pro in a very comprehensive guide on his website.

He puts the new ultra-wide-angle lens to the test, pushes Night Mode to its limits and overall provides a comprehensive overview with plenty of sample images to look through. He concludesd by saying, under the headline ‘Buying advice for photographers:’

’The iPhone 12 Pro is a solid camera, and thanks to a bunch of new digital tech I found it to be slightly stronger than the already great iPhone 11 Pro — but if you are serious about photography with your iPhone, wait for the iPhone 12 Pro Max. It looks to be the most significant jump in iPhone camera hardware we’ve experienced in years, and it’s only three weeks away.’

Nilay Patel, ft Becca Farsace (The Verge)

Being a more general technology website, The Verge’s review doesn’t only focus on photography, but author Nilay Patel does have a thorough section dedicated to the imaging capabilities of the iPhone 12 Pro. He also gets the thoughts of The Verge video director Becca Farsace, whose work we’ve featured here on DPReview in the past.

There’s also a video review from The Verge:

Aundre Larrow (via PetaPixel)

Photographer and former Adobe Creative Resident Andre Larrow has teamed up with PetaPixel to share his thoughts on the new iPhone 12 Pro camera system. Taking a departure from the usual type of imagery you expect to see in reviews, Larrow opted to put it to the test by taking a series of intimate portraits with friends and acquaintances who have been quarantining together, as to minimize any health risks with the outdoor portrait sessions.

The series is somehow both serious and lighthearted with an editorial feel you don’t often associate with smartphone photography. It’s a welcomed change of pace and well worth the read.

Raymond Wong (Input)

Despite ‘taking [his] phone photography quite seriously,’ Raymond Wong of Input takes a more casual approach to reviewing the camera technology inside the iPhone 12 Pro. Despite the more casual approach, he does a great job comparing the new iPhone 12 Pro to the iPhone 12, iPhone 11 Pro and Pixel 5 in a number of areas, with sample images for comparison. Head on over to the review to see for yourself.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Apple unveils 5G iPhone 12 Pro, 12 Pro Max devices with larger screens, better cameras and more

14 Oct

Moments after revealing its iPhone 12 devices at today’s virtual event, Apple showed off the next-generation of its flagship mobile devices, the iPhone 12 Pro and iPhone 12 Pro Max.

The two new models are constructed of surgical-grade steel and use advanced physical vapor deposition (VPD) technology that results in a ’spectacular luster.’ Despite having effectively the same physical dimensions of their predecessors, the iPhone 12 Pro and 12 Pro Max feature larger screens, 6.1” and 6.7”, respectively, as Apple has managed to further shrink the bezel.

The new iPhone 12 Pro models are based on Apple’s A14 Bionic chip, which was first seen its the company’s iPad Air refresh last month. The 5nm process chipset features a 6-core CPU and a 4-core GPU that Apple claims is up to 50% faster than any other phone on the market.

As with the iPhone 12, both the Pro and Pro Max receive sub—6GHz and mmWave 5G connectivity, ensuring the devices should work with the array of various 5G networks major carriers around the world are supporting. Apple has also included its new ‘Ceramic Shield’ technology to its flagship devices, which should help reduce the likeliness of cracked screens.

As has been the case for most of Apple’s ‘Pro’ devices, the company put a huge emphasis on the camera capabilities of its latest flagship devices. The iPhone 12 Pro features a 12MP (13mm equivalent) ultrawide module, a 12MP F1.6 wide module and a 12MP (52mm equivalent) telephoto module. Apple says the wide module captures 27% more light than previous-generations, aided by the larger aperture and seven-element lens. The optical image stabilization has also been improved, as well as autofocus thanks to the improved LiDAR capabilities.

Apple further pushed the photography boundaries with the iPhone 12 Pro Max, putting in a 47% larger sensor that offers an 87% improvement in low-light photos thanks to its larger 1.7um pixels. Apple also added swapped out the telephoto on the 12 Pro for a 5x (65mm equivalent) telephoto lens.

Apple has also added the ability to record HDR video, including the ability to shoot and in Dobly Vision HDR directly within the Photos app.

The iPhone 12 Pro will be available to pre-order on October 16, starting at $ 999. iPhone 12 Pro Max pre-orders will open on November 6 and pricing starts at $ 1,099. Both models are available in blue, gold, graphite and silver.

Apple ProRAW

In addition to the new hardware, Apple also revealed it will bring Apple ProRAW to its latest iPhone devices later this year. Apple says the new format will combine the benefits of its Deep Fusion and Smart HDR technology with the flexibility of a Raw file format when editing. The format will be able to be captured with all the onboard cameras.

To ensure third-party apps will also be able to make the most of the new format, Apple will be launching an API for both desktop and mobile apps for third-party developers to use. There’s no mention on when exactly we’ll see this update get pushed to devices.

This story is developing. Refresh the page for the latest information.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tips for Culling Images for Better Results and More Efficiency

30 Sep

The post Tips for Culling Images for Better Results and More Efficiency appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

When it comes to a photographer’s workflow, there is one stage that might be more important than any other. It is the image selection process, also known as the culling stage. This critical stage is the point where you get your images into Lightroom (or other software) and start choosing which to work on.

But while this is the stage where you choose the photos that ultimately end up representing your work as a photographer, without systems in place it can turn into a huge time sink.

So focusing on the process of culling images can help speed up image selection significantly. 

Have a system for culling images to help you get to your best results faster.
Being able to quickly whittle down a set of photos is an important skill for any photographer. At 36 images, this is a small set of photos, but the principles are the same whether it’s 36 images or 360.

This article aims to show you why having a good system for image selection can be beneficial to your photography and your portfolio. It will also provide an overview of a basic system that you can start to use in your workflow right away, and it will provide tips on how to use Lightroom’s built-in functionality for this purpose. 

Note: My examples here are portraits, but the system applies to just about any genre in photography. There are instances where you might not be able to apply some of these principles and the criteria you apply in different genres will be different, but they are exceptions. 

The forest for the trees

Take a moment to imagine that you’ve just finished a big session and imported all the images into Lightroom. Now you may have hundreds of images that you have to sift through to find the ones that you want to work on.

Having a lot of photos from a shoot makes culling images even more important.
When you have hundreds of photos from a shoot all in one place, and test shots, outtakes, and misfires are still included, it can feel like a chore to go through them all.

Without a system for culling images in place, it’s all too easy to find yourself continually scrolling through the same set of images and reviewing the same ones multiple times. This may not be a problem if you only have a handful of frames, but once you get into larger shoots, you can waste a lot of time doing things this way.

Additionally, after going through the same images over and over again, it can also become discouraging. This makes it easy to give up and leave some gems unspotted, which are ultimately relegated to obscurity on your hard drive. 

culling images
By using Collection Sets to divide a large shoot into ten outfit changes, the images become much easier to manage.

So what type of system can you create?

Using Collection Sets to divide up large shoots into smaller, more manageable chunks is a good place to start.

This is just a small reason why you should consider developing a system for your editing process. 

Editing

The image selection process is also known as editing. Now, I know that the word edit (and editing) has come to mean something else in everyday vernacular for photographers. You can call it whatever you want, as I am not one to dictate or prescribe. But as you will be going about image editing in the future, consider thinking about your post-processing workflow in terms of these two job descriptions:

Photo (Picture) Editor: Someone whose job it is to select photos appropriate for the use in question. 

Retoucher: Someone whose job it is to alter the appearance of photos and manipulate photos to achieve a final result. 

Tools

Lightroom has a huge variety of tools that makes culling images easier. While this is not an exhaustive list, here are a few features that I use regularly: 

Fullscreen Mode

Culling images in full screen mode ensures that you are focusing on one image at a time.
Using Fullscreen Mode during the image selection process will help to remove any distractions from your screen. You’ll see the photo that you are evaluating and nothing else.

Being able to view a single image at a time makes this whole process go more smoothly. It also takes away the distraction of Lightroom’s standard interface on the screen. To enter Fullscreen Mode, select any single image in the Library Module and press the “F” key. 

Compare

culling images
If you want to look at two similar images side by side, use the Compare feature in Lightroom.

The Compare feature allows you to look at two images side by side. Although you won’t use this until later in the selection process, it becomes very useful when you are trying to choose between two similar images with minor differences.

To use the Compare feature, select any two images in the Library Module and press the “C” key. To get back to your normal view, press “G.”

Reject

Lightroom lets you mark photos as rejects, which makes culling images a breeze.
When you reject a photo in Lightroom, the image will be grayed out and marked by a black flag with an “X.” Any images you mark in this way should be recognizable at a glance.

If you follow my process, you are going to use this tool a lot. When you press the “X” key while any image is selected, you flag that image as a reject. This marks the image with a black flag with an “X” in the upper left-hand corner, and it grays the image out in the Library Module. This makes it very easy to see which images you have already reviewed and marked as unsuitable.

Pick

Mark photos you like with a Pick when culling images.
Marking an image as a Pick will annotate it with a highly-visible white flag.

When you are going through your images, you will eventually come across a photo that you love. You’ll know that you want to work on it no matter what.

In this instance, press the “P” key; the image will be flagged as a Pick. A little white flag icon will appear at the top left of the image in Lightroom.

Star ratings

culling images using the Lightroom star ratings
Using the star ratings in Lightroom is another quick and useful way to annotate images that you want to review again later.

Because you will be going through your images multiple times, you can use the star ratings in Lightroom to mark any images you are unsure of or aren’t able to make a final decision on yet. You can mark them with one to five stars by using the corresponding number key. This makes them clearly labeled when you return to them in the future. 

On being ruthless

Before we get into the actual steps of the editing process, there is one thing to discuss. Most everything outlined in this article can be changed up as required, but there is one thing that will be important for you to follow no matter what.

To make this process faster and more efficient, and to ensure that you are only left with your best images, you have to be ruthless. If something is not right about an image, reject it. If you have to think about it for more than a few seconds, reject it. If you have even so much as a niggling doubt, reject it. 

Being able to spot obvious flaws will make culling images a fast process.
Being able to quickly recognize obvious faults will allow you to reject images quickly. Overexposure, outtakes, reflections in glasses, cropped body parts, and awkward arm placements are some of the reasons these images were rejected at first glance.

A lot of the wasted time in this part of the workflow comes from hemming and hawing over an image for a length of time when the image doesn’t wind up getting used anyway. Make decisions fast. Be ruthless.

The system

culling images
Keeping the images you are working on separate from the rest will make this process go much more smoothly.

Now that you know the desired end result, you can get started with the actual process of image selection.

The first step is to isolate the set of images you are working on from everything else. There should be no distractions. If you are working on a set from a portrait session where there were multiple outfit changes, separate each outfit into its own folder.

In Lightroom, this is easy. You can create a Collection Set for your shoot, and then create a Collection for every outfit change inside that set. This will keep all of the images from a session in one place, but separated by things like outfit changes or lighting changes. 

Criteria

Chances are that you already have preconceived notions of what you don’t like in photos. Whether these ideas come from things you’ve heard from other photographers or opinions you’ve developed yourself, it doesn’t matter. Knowing what these things are is going to help you speed through the process much, much faster. 

Technical: Things that fall on the technical side are relatively easy to identify. What you are evaluating for here are things like focus, exposure, the absence of motion blur, etc. When you are going through your images, learn to identify technical faults at a glance.

Culling images is easy when you know what to look for
Technical faults, like reflections in glasses, are easy to spot and make quick decisions on.

Aesthetic: This one is all down to your personal tastes. If you can figure out what you don’t like, then you can spot those things in an instant and rule the photos out of the selection process.

Don’t like when portrait subjects bring their hands to their face? That rules out any photos fitting that description. Don’t like it when catchlights appear in the whites of the eyes? You get where I’m going with this. 

culling images
Aesthetic faults come down to personal preference and taste. Here, the eyes are dark and the pose isn’t the best.

The first pass

culling images
The goal of your first pass is to reject as many images as possible as fast as possible. If you can identify a reject at a glance and mark it as such, you won’t waste any time later going over that image multiple times.

Once you’ve isolated the images that you’re working on, you can begin the first pass of the culling process.

The only goal here is culling images as fast as possible. Select the first photo in your folder and enter Fullscreen Mode in Lightroom (press “F”). Use the right arrow key to scroll through your images one at a time.

You should have an idea of what isn’t a good photo in your mind. You’re looking for things that fall into that category. Did the flash misfire? Are the eyes partly closed? Is the facial expression not flattering? Is the lighting not quite right? Is the focus off? 

If there’s a fault in the image, find it and press “X.” 

The second pass

Now that you have completed the first run through your images, you should find that you’ve rejected most of them. The next step is to isolate the images that you haven’t culled from the ones you need to review again.

There are a few ways you can do this. You can create a new Collection and add the images that are to be reviewed. Or you could remove the rejected images from the Collection you are working in. 

Sorting options will help you when culling images.
Using the sorting options on the bottom toolbar, you can sort by Pick. This will put all of your rejects at the bottom of the catalog, making it easy to go through for the second pass.

You could also use the sorting options on the bottom toolbar in the Library Module. This will put any rejected images at the end of the gallery. From there, you can select all of the unflagged images and enter Fullscreen Mode again. As you cycle through the images a second time, you’ll first see the shots you have selected.

For this pass, you are trying to achieve the same thing as the first: to reject as many images as possible. This time it will take longer, as these are images that you have already decided don’t have any immediate faults. Feel free to take extra time and have a careful look over the images. Just remember that you are still not picking any photos yet, merely getting rid of the ones that aren’t suitable. 

You can repeat this stage as many times as you need in order to narrow down your Collection to the few best images. For the sake of brevity, we’ll move directly on to the next stage and assume you’ve narrowed your images down as much as possible. 

The third pass

the third pass when culling images
Using this method, I was able to narrow down this set to three images in a little over ten minutes.

At this point, you should have a much smaller group of images to work with.

(If you still have a lot of photos, go back and be more ruthless.)

You can now go through and start making your final selections. It should be a lot easier now that you have a much smaller pool to go through. Use the Pick flags or star ratings to indicate the photos you want to work on and reject any photos that still need rejecting.

At the end of your culling sessions, you should have a concise selection of images that reflect the best shots from a particular set. 

How many should you aim for?

If you’re wondering how many images you should aim to have left once this is all over, the answer is: it depends. 

The number of final images is going to vary wildly depending on how you shoot and what you are shooting for. For example, if I am shooting for myself, I will be looking for one or two images per set. That set may start with 10 photos in it. It may start with 100. I am still only looking for one or two.

If I’m doing a short portrait session for a client, I might end up with 15-20 proofs to present. If I was photographing an event, I would go through and get rid of the obvious rejects and keep everything that was left. 

culling images example photo
Canon 5D Mark III | Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 | 85mm | 1/2000 sec | f/2.8 | ISO 200

There is no right answer. Only you can answer how many images you need in the end. This whole process of culling images is there to get you to those final photos faster, rather than get you to a certain number.

Keeping it basic

The tools and the process outlined in this article are very basic. It’s how I do it and it’s like that for a reason. The process is uncomfortable and forces you, for a little while, to focus on your mistakes.

When I am culling images, I want it completed as soon as possible, and I don’t want my tools to get in the way of the process. That said, Lightroom has a whole host of other features that could be used in the culling process. By all means, use them if they suit you. It doesn’t matter how you get the job done as long as you get it done.

Conclusion

I know that this can be a difficult process. You have a catalog of images on the screen that you created and poured all kinds of effort into. You just want to look through them and feel good about the photos you’ve made. You don’t want to jump in and start finding faults with 90% of them. I understand. I’m the same.

However, as disheartening as it feels at first, once you start culling images and the best images from a shoot start showing themselves (usually after a short while), that allows you to focus only on the best.

Trust me: The images that you cut get quickly forgotten, anyway. It’s best to be done with them fast; that way you can focus the rest of your time and effort on the images that will benefit you and your portfolio. 

The post Tips for Culling Images for Better Results and More Efficiency appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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How to: Shoot better macro photos using a slider and focus stacking

25 Sep
A Sony a6300 and an Edelkrone motorized slider: interesting marriage of technique and technology?

Like a lot of people, I’ve always had an interest in macro photography, which unfortunately never really developed into anything more than the odd shot of a flower or two. Then a couple of years ago I sold my seldom used 100mm F2.8 Sony macro lens when I moved from Sony A- to Sony E-mount. At the time I thought my macro shooting days were behind me.

But then I became interested in focus stacking, which is a technique used to blend several images focused at different points so that the depth of field can be increased beyond that of a single image. It can be used for multiple types of shots, but is typically used with close-ups or macro images.

This watch shot was comprised of 50 images taken with a Sony a6300 and 18-55mm lens at F7.1. The camera was a set to 1/25th at ISO 100. The images were blended in Helicon Focus.

About 18 months ago I bought a set of budget Neewer extension tubes to use with my Sony a7 III and Sony a6300. While not really specifically meant for 1:1 macro work, they come in handy when shooting product shots as they let you focus a lot closer to the product (as opposed to without them).

This pile of screws was shot 1:1 with the 7 Artisans 60mm Macro ( F8 at 1/60th and ISO 800). The 30 frames were then blended in Helicon focus.

The other part of this equation is that I’ve been using Edelkrone equipment for a couple of years now and I’ve always been intrigued by the fact their small motorized slider (SliderOne V2 $ 499) has a minimum travel distance of 0.222 ?m. Could this be used for focus stacking in combination with a time lapse sequence?

Using a slider for focus stacking does present some potential problems. For starters, moving the entire camera could introduce errors with perspective and isometric distortion. However, I’m never one for the easy way out, so I decided to investigate further.

This stack of 30 images (55mm F8, 1/60th, ISO 800) was blended in Helicon Focus taken under constant LED lighting.

What type of equipment is used, typically?

Strictly speaking, focus stacking doesn’t require complicated equipment like a slider. Many digital cameras, including a variety of Olympus and Panasonic models, even offer the ability to do all the focus stacking internally by automatically re-focusing the lens and blending the images in-camera. But the slider and dedicated post-processing software allow for a far greater degree of control over the final image.

Additionally, if you’re not using those Olympus and Panasonic cameras, you don’t necessarily need to use a dedicated macro lens; a standard kit lens and some extension tubes can work very well to get you started. You do, however, need to manually refocus the image every time you take a shot so that at least part of the image is in focus each time. Your results can be a bit hit-or-miss if you do it this way, and the software to assemble the images can cost you some money.

Details of technique and equipment

I tried a few different setups for my images, but all of them included the slider and a Sony a6300. Initially I did try using the Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 with a set of Neewer extension tubes (NW-S-AF3A, 10 and 16mm $ 49.99) and some of the images can be seen here. I had to be a little more careful with the lighting when using these tubes as they don’t have internal felt flocking and can cause some lack of contrast and flare if not used carefully, due to internal reflections.

Inexpensive extension tubes can give you extra options for close up photography

While the subject image was relatively large compared to the sensor, it wasn’t quite at a 1:1 ratio, it ended up being ~1:1.1 using both tubes at the closest focus for this lens. In all cases the lens was set to manual focus as was the camera, a careful juggling act was performed to get the right balance of light level, aperture, shutter speed and ISO. After a bit of experimentation I found that I needed to use an aperture of F8; this gave enough sharp areas of focus for each exposure without the need to increase the number of shots.

After a bit of experimentation I found that I needed to use an aperture of F8; this gave enough sharp areas of focus for each exposure without the need to increase the number of shots

I then decided it was time so see how a different macro would work with my setup, so I picked up the low cost 7 Artisans 60mm F2.8 ($ 159.00) to experiment with. This is a true 1:1 ratio lens with a de-clicked iris and manual focus-only. It’s incredibly well constructed with a metal body and allows a close-focus distance of 26cm (about 10.25 inches). It has no communication with the camera body so EXIF iris data is not available. It allows a working distance of 14cm and you can unscrew the lens hood to allow more light in if required.

This set of 30 images was shot with 2 flashes, at (F8, 1/100th, ISO 200) at 52mm with extension tubes.

Of course setting up the shot is 90% of the work – aligning the camera and making sure the axis of movement is exactly perpendicular to the center of the object can take some time when you have a lot of axes of adjustment. Distortion can be mostly corrected for in post-production, but it also takes time.

Trying to eliminate dust, or at least as much of it as possible is also a major part of this sort of photography. I don’t mind the fix it in post attitude but I’d rather try and reduce the amount of work required.

This is about the maximum depth of field I could achieve as the tip of the key is close to exiting the frame. Blended in Photoshop, 60 images at F8, 1/60th, ISO 400.

Lighting is also a key component. I always like to keep things simple so some of my photos were only lit with a single light, and some with up to three. The shot of the key is an example of where more light sources were needed to give more interesting reflections. The lighting of course is crucial and this also took significant time to get right. In the end, I settled on using constant LED lighting rather than flashes as I found they gave me more control.

In the end I settled on using constant LED lighting rather than flashes

After a bit of trial and error I settled on 30-60 shots for each set of exposures. The number of shots was based around the amount of movement of the slider; if you are only traveling a few millimeters then you can get away with 30 shots, but for other scenes – like the watch – I needed 60. Initially I tried 15 shots per move but when the focal planes were blended in software I found too many out of focus areas.

This slightly odd shot of styling gel on a CD is another 60 image stack (F8, 1/60th, ISO 320) processed in Helicon Focus.

Processing the images

For post-processing I decided to try two different solutions: Photoshop, i.e. something that most people are familiar with, and Helicon Focus, a dedicated piece of software. I also chose to work with Raw files. My PC setup for this was by no means high end, I used a self-built Windows 10 PC with 32GB of RAM and a Ryzen 1700X CPU and stored the photos on a 500GB SATA SSD.

For post-processing I decided to try two different solutions: Photoshop, i.e. something that most people are familiar with and Helicon Focus, a dedicated piece of software

I started with Adobe Photoshop ($ 9.99 a month for a 12 month subscription). You can use Adobe Lightroom to apply adjustments to each Raw image globally and then import them as separate layers into Photoshop. I then aligned the images using the auto-align function and then I had to auto-blend all the layers into one. This was a few too many steps for my liking. It is possible to load Raw files directly as an image stack using the built-in script option, but then you still need to auto-blend the images and correct for any exposure changes you want to make.

It would take around 2-3 minutes to load 60 Raw images and align them it then took an additional 2-3 minutes to produce the final image. It was then possible to tweak layers that didn’t quite work by cloning data from layers above or below.

A set of 60 shots at F8, 1/160th at ISO 640 with the 7 Artisans 60mm 1:1 macro. The raw result from Photoshop, an uncropped image showing areas that couldn’t be blended without errors The Raw Helicon focus result – auto cropped by the software, although this can be turned off.

I also wanted to see what Helicon Focus could offer. The basic Lite package costs $ 30 per month or $ 115 for a lifetime license. It works a little differently than Photoshop. Loading the images can be done directly from the Raw files with basic development settings set up within Helicon Focus itself. I found that the time taken to load 30 Raw images was significantly reduced compared to Photoshop, around 5-10 seconds to load and 3-4 minutes to blend the final picture. After the initial compilation of the image it would then take only about 20-30 seconds to render any subsequent adjustments to the algorithms.

I found that the time taken to load 30 raw images into Helicon Focus was significantly reduced compared to PS

Helicon focus offers three ways of blending the images (weighted average, depth map and pyramid) and also a couple of sliders (radius and smoothing) to help tweak the final result. Helicon exposes to the user what it is doing as it draws a depth map from your images, something that was fascinating to watch, a bit like seeing images from a scanning electron microscope. Like Photoshop you can also clone data between image layers but I found that most of the time Helicon produced a better image or at least one that could be improved by adjusting the algorithm and some of the parameters without the need for cloning.

The depth map that Helicon Focus produces can be adjusted with the radius and smoothing sliders

It’s also very easy to compare the results from the three different algorithms as Helicon gives you a timeline at the bottom of the main window which allows you to look at your session history. You can then easily choose to view any of the versions you have created and see which one works best.

By default Helicon will automatically crop the final image (although this can be changed in the settings). Photoshop makes geometric adjustments and either leaves transparent areas of the image or gives you the option to content aware fill these areas.

Which software should you use? It comes down to what sort of photographer you are

Over all, I found that Helicon’s interpolation is better, and useful if you have fewer images – although it can’t work miracles. Although its Raw development options are limited, you can load images directly from Lightroom.

So which software should you use? I think it comes down to what sort of photographer you are. If you want to make minute adjustments to your image, then Helicon Focus is probably the tool for you, otherwise, Photoshop works fine.

General tips for success

The parts of the petals closest to the camera are causing blending problems here, that’s because they were never in focus.

As a whole, I found that I needed more setup time than I had originally thought. Working at this scale can introduce errors that I was not able to see initially in the viewfinder or on the rear LCD. My advice is to shoot a few frames and then process, to see what adjustments you might have to make, rather than shooting hundreds of images only to find that they won’t work. Below are five other tips from my adventure in macro photography:

  • Set up your slider for the farthest shot first as this will be the limiting factor to your framing.
  • Make sure you have a solid tripod and base for your subject. As you may end up with an exposure set that takes minutes to capture, any movement can ruin the resulting image.
  • Run at least two seconds between exposures, this gives time for the slider movement to settle down. If you plan to use flashes to light your subject you may need to increase this to allow for them to recycle. Use the silent shutter or electronic curtain if possible, this also reduces shake.
  • Set everything to manual, including white balance. Sometimes small shifts in white balance can cause issues when blending images.
  • Take more images than you think you need even if you don’t end up blending all of them. It can be very difficult to see what is in focus on your camera’s LCD even when using peaking or expanded focus.

How it worked and what I learned

The most important takeaway: shooting macro with a slider does work. It wasn’t perfect and I could definitely improve things, but it was a successful proof-of-concept.

Like anything, it takes time to get good results and this is achievable by careful setup combined with some experimentation. If you are thinking that focus stacking might be an area of interest for you, don’t think you need go off and purchase a motorized slider; manually changing your focus also works. However, you may find that the optical construction of some lenses (like the 7 Artisans 60mm) don’t allow manually re-focusing without the image size changing quite drastically thanks to focus breathing. If that is the case, a normal lens and some extension tubes may prove a better option.

As for me? I’ve been bitten by the macro bug again.

Chris’ macro gallery

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Sony’s new HVL-F28RM flash uses camera face detection for better portraits

18 Sep

Sony has just announced the HVL-F28RM flash. It’s designed to be compact and easy to use, but also comes with features that more advanced photographers will appreciate.

When combined with Sony’s a7C, a7S III, a7R IV and a9 II, the F28RM will use face detection information from the camera to better balance its output with the ambient lighting of the scene, as well as adjust white balance for a more natural look.

The flash angle can be adjusted up to 120 degrees and it’s powered by two AA-sized alkaline or NiMH batteries. Other features include radio wireless communication, a stronger metal hot shoe and dust and moisture resistance.

The HVL-F28RM will be available this winter and will retail for $ 249 USD ($ 329 CAD).

Press release:

Sony Electronics Introduces Alpha 7C Camera and Zoom Lens, the World’s Smallest and Lightest[i] Full-frame Camera System

New HVL-F28RM Compact Flash is also Announced

SAN DIEGO, CA – September 14, 2020 – Today, Sony Electronics Inc. announced several additions to an already impressive imaging lineup — the Alpha 7C full-frame camera (model ILCE-7C), the FE 28-60mm F4-5.6 (model SEL2860) zoom lens and HVL-F28RM flash.

The Alpha 7C is the world’s smallest and lightest[ii] full-frame body with uncompromising performance, featuring advanced AF (autofocus), high-resolution 4K video[iii] capabilities and more. When paired with the world’s smallest and lightest[iv] FE 28-60mm F4-5.6 standard zoom lens, this versatile combination delivers an experience unlike any other, maximizing portability and versatility without sacrificing any of the power of full-frame imaging. The HVL-F28RM flash allows users to broaden their photo expressions with outstanding compactness, and an intelligent light intensity control linked to camera face detection[v].

“We are committed to creating the best tools possible, based on the needs of our customers,” said Neal Manowitz, deputy president of Imaging Products and Solutions Americas, Sony Electronics. “The new Alpha 7C camera and FE 28-60mm F4-5.6 zoom lens pack many of our most advanced imaging technologies in a brand new design that is the smallest and lightest full-frame camera and lens system in the world. This opens up a new world of possibilities for creators, giving them the uncompromised power of a full-frame system in the palm of their hand.”

New HVL-F28RM: Compact Flash with Light Intensity Control Linked to Camera Face Detection[v]

The HVL-F28RM is a compact flash designed to match Sony’s mirrorless cameras for a compact, manageable system, and offers the type of reliable, stable performance that only a genuine Sony product can provide. When compared to the HVL-F32M, the HVL-F28RM features a 12 percent reduction in volume and 7 percent reduction in weight. This compact, easy-to-use flash unit delivers the capabilities and dependability to meet the needs of both professional and advanced amateur content creators.

The HVL-F28RM offers consistent GN28[xxv] light output, optimized light distribution and continuous flash performance that won’t interrupt the user’s workflow, as well as stable radio wireless communication and multi flash radio control. The new flash also features Sony’s newly introduced flash control linked to camera face detection[v] advanced technology. When used with a compatible camera, the balance between the light falling on the subject’s face and ambient light is evaluated to automatically adjust accurate white balance so that the subject’s face is rendered with natural, lifelike color. In addition, flash compensation, light ratio, and other detailed flash parameters can be controlled directly from a compatible camera[xxvi]. A camera custom key can be assigned to call up the flash parameter display so that adjustments can be made while looking through the viewfinder and gripping the camera. Flash parameters are shown in the selected camera display language.

A newly developed “Metal Shoe Foot with Rugged Side Frame”[xxvii] that also houses the unit’s electrical contacts offers improved resistance to physical shock and impact from all directions. The Multi Interface foot is fabricated from metal for higher strength. The HVL-F28RM also features a dust and moisture resistant[xxii] design. When the HVL-F28RM is mounted and locked onto the Alpha 7C, Alpha 7S III, Alpha 7R IV and Alpha 9 II, durability to dust and moisture is improved, even when used in challenging outdoor environments.

The HVL-F28RM also features simple, intuitive operation with minimal controls including +/- light level buttons, pairing button, test button and lock lever. Plenty of light is available for bounce applications. The flash angle can also be set as required via 0, 20, 40, 60, 80, and 120 degree click stops for easy positioning. The new flash also features a built-in wireless radio trigger for reliable flash triggering when mounted on a compatible camera[xxvi] and paired with an off-camera unit. When used as a transmitter, the HVL-F28RM can control up to 15 flash and/or receiver units in 5 groups[xxviii] at distances of up to 114 feet (35 meters)[xxix] for extraordinary lighting control and versatility. The HVL-F28RM is powered by two AA (LR6) alkaline or NiMH batteries. A fresh pair of alkaline batteries can provide power for up to 110 continuous flashes (1/1 manual flash with alkaline batteries)[xxix].

Pricing and Availability

The HVL-F28RM flash will be available this winter and will be sold for approximately $ 249.99 USD and $ 329.99 CAD. It will be sold at a variety of Sony’s authorized dealers throughout North America.

Exclusive stories and exciting new content shot with the new camera, lens and Sony’s other imaging products can be found at www.alphauniverse.com, a site created to educate and inspire all fans and customers of Sony ? – Alpha.

[i] An Alpha 7C with an FE 28-60mm F4-5.6 lens mounted. Among full-frame interchangeable-lens digital cameras, in combination with an interchangeable zoom lens. As of Sept. 2020. Sony survey.

[ii] Among full-frame interchangeable-lens digital cameras with optical in-body image stabilization mechanism, as of Sept. 2020. Sony survey.

[iii] A Class 10 or higher SDHC/SDXC card is required for XAVC S format movie recording. UHS speed class 3 or higher is required for 100 Mbps recording.

[iv] Among interchangeable zoom lenses for 35mm full-frame format digital camera bodies, as of Sept. 2020. Sony survey.

[v] This function is only compatible with Alpha 7C as of Sept. 2020

[xxii] Not guaranteed to be 100% dust and water resistant.

[xxv] 50 mm, at ISO 100 in meters

[xxvi] Visit Sony support webpage for functional compatibility information.

[xxvii] Design registration application pending.

[xxviii] In group flash mode. 3 groups (A-C) in TTL or manual flash mode.

[xxix] Sony internal test conditions.

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DPReview TV: ProRes Raw just got a whole lot better (thanks to a Final Cut Pro update)

05 Sep

An update to Final Cut Pro X promises to unleash the power of ProRes Raw video, a feature available on many new cameras. But, cameras need to supply the right metadata for it to work.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

  • Introduction
  • Final Cut Pro X update
  • Previous issues
  • Interface changes
  • White balance corrections
  • ISO adjustments
  • How to find your camera's native ISOs
  • What camera makers must do
  • See you soon!

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Become a Better Photo Editor with the New Lightroom Mobile ‘Discover’ Feature

12 Aug

The post Become a Better Photo Editor with the New Lightroom Mobile ‘Discover’ Feature appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Every time you see a photo that strikes you as beautiful, brilliant, or breathtaking, you are only witnessing the tip of the iceberg. In nearly every case, the photo is the end result of dozens, even hundreds, of edits made by the photographer. From simple cropping and white balance to in-depth editing like curves and color mix, these edits are what turn an ordinary image into a work of art.

Unfortunately, such edits on a photo have been impossible to see. But, thanks to the recent addition of a ‘Share Your Edit’ feature in Lightroom Mobile, you’re now able to view the behind-the-scenes edits made to images.

Lightroom Mobile Share Your Edit Feature Sunset Wind Turbines
Nikon D750 | AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II | 200mm | 1/4000s | f/22 | ISO 100

One of the best ways to grow as a photographer is to learn from others. Find out what works for photographers you admire and respect, and then adopt those techniques into your own workflow. This is the foundation for almost any trade, craft, or artistic pursuit. Yet, for photographers, this knowledge is often locked away behind a door. People can see the end result, but not the process.

The Discover feature in Lightroom Mobile solves this by giving you access to a worldwide community of artists who have willingly shared their editing process. There are hundreds, even thousands, of photo communities online that let you view pictures and share your own. However, none of these—not Instagram, Flickr, SmugMug, or anything else—let you see the editing process. You can only see the final image, which isn’t much use if you want to know how the photographer edited their photo to actually create the picture.

This is Lightroom Mobile’s ace in the hole: Because the Discover feature is part of the same software used to edit the images being shared, it allows for a level of freedom unmatched by any other photosharing site. In minutes, you can be learning from experts and professionals all over the world to see how they have edited their pictures, and you can adopt their techniques into your own workflow.

Discovering the Share Your Edit feature

Accessing the Discover option requires nothing more than a few taps on your mobile device. Open the Lightroom Mobile app and then tap on the icon that looks like a globe. If you hold your device vertically the icon will appear at the bottom of your screen along with the Discover label.

Lightroom Mobile Share Your Edit Feature
Tap the globe icon at the top left to access the Discover feature.

What you see next might remind you of many other photosharing apps, but dig a little deeper and you’ll see so much more. Scroll up and down to see more photos, and tap the heart icon in the lower right corner of any picture to mark it as one that you like. In the lower left corner, you will see the profile photo of the photographer who shot the picture. At the top is a list of categories for you to explore: Featured, New, Abstract, Landscape, Nature, and more.

So far so good, right? If the point of the Lightroom Mobile Discover feature is to help you find photos (or photographers) that you like, then there’s not much to distinguish this from any other photosharing app. The real fun begins when you tap on a photo to see the edit history.

Learning from the edits

When you tap on a picture it’s almost like stepping through a time machine or, more accurately, into a classroom.

Lightroom Mobile Share Your Edit Feature
Nearly every photo in the Discover feature lets you look at the edits that were made to it.

Lightroom Mobile now shows you the picture you tapped on, along with a blue bar at the bottom of your screen that fills from left to right. As the bar moves, the picture changes right before your very eyes, almost as though you’re watching it being edited in realtime. And, in a way, that’s exactly what’s happening.

Tap the Edits button at the bottom of the screen or just press and scroll upwards on the photo to load the entire editing history of the image. This is where the Lightroom Mobile Discover feature rockets into the stratosphere and becomes an amazing tool for photographers who want to learn from others, not just be inspired by their photos.

Lightroom Mobile Share Your Edit Discover Feature
Scroll up and down through the list of edits to see them applied in real-time.

After tapping the Edits button you are presented with a scrolling list of every single edit that the photographer applied to the photo. Scroll to the top to see the initial import, and then slowly scroll down to watch the image change before your very eyes as each individual edit was applied. Lightroom Mobile shows you each particular edit along with the specific number for each individual adjustment.

This linear edit history lets you look over the shoulder of the photographer, watching every edit they made and seeing how each decision changed the image. The Discover feature lets you stand in a room with thousands of photographers, learning from each of them as you see how they arrived at their final images.

Share Your Edit feature
Looking through the edits to a photo is like being in the same room as the photographer while the image is being refined.

One limitation you will quickly realize is that this feature only shows you the edits. You are not allowed to change any of the editing values and, as a result, alter the image in any way. However, you can save the edits as a preset so you can use them in your own photography.

Click the three-dot icon in the top right corner and then tap Save as Preset to download the edits to your own Lightroom app. You can then apply these edits to any of your photos and adjust any of the parameters that you want.

Lightroom Mobile Discover Feature
Most edits can be shared as presets, unless the photographer sharing the edits has specifically forbidden it.

The Lightroom Mobile Discover feature has a few more tricks up its sleeve to help you get inside the mind of photographers who have shared their images. Tap the Info button to see additional details that the photographer has shared about the image. This often includes a title, written description, keywords related to the subject, EXIF data, and camera information. All this is extraordinarily useful for anyone who wants to learn more about a particular photo beyond just how it was edited.

Share your own

After diving into the Discover feature and learning more about how other photos were edited, you might be inclined to share your own images and edits. You can do this easily from Lightroom Mobile with just a few taps.

To get started with sharing your images to the Discover community, just open Lightroom Mobile and tap on any of the images in your library. Then tap the Share icon in the top right corner.

Lightroom Mobile Discover Feature
Tap the Share button on any of your images to upload the picture (and your editing history) to the Discover feature.

Then click the Share Edit option.

Note that as of this writing (July 2020) this process is still in Beta. Adobe will no doubt improve and refine it over time, and the exact steps might change.

Lightroom Mobile Share Your Edit Feature
Share Edit is still in beta as of July 2020, but it works very well.

The next screen prompts you to enter some information about the photo. This is similar to Instagram and other photosharing sites, but keep in mind that the point here is to help other photographers learn more about the photo. You aren’t competing for likes or upvotes; you’re sharing valuable information along with your edits to help a larger community of photographers learn more about their craft.

Lightroom Mobile Discover Feature
The more you write in your title and description, the more helpful other photographers will find your image.

It helps to be as descriptive as possible in your title, description, and category sections. That way, you are not only helping other people learn more about your photo; you’re helping them to discover it, as well, by using categories that are similar to hashtags on other photosharing sites.

Finally, choose whether you want your edits to be saved as presets. I always recommend enabling this option because of the sharing mentality that makes the Lightroom Mobile Discover feature so valuable. If you have benefitted from viewing edits that other photographers have made, it’s nice to respond in kind by sharing your own edits, as well.

I don’t recommend including location information, which is turned off by default.

Lightroom Mobile Discover Feature
I recommend enabling the Save as Preset option to let others save your editing process to use on their own images.

After you have all the basic information about your photo ready to go, tap the checkmark icon in the top right corner. This uploads your image, editing information, title, description, and categories to the Discover feature.

Lightroom Mobile Discover Feature
I get a kick out of heading to the Discover feature right away to see my images show up in the stream of new photos.

Tap the OK button and then head over to the Discover feature to see your image in the New section. Soon other photographers will start viewing it and learning from your edits! To see all the images you have shared with the Discover community, along with the number of likes each photo has gotten, tap your profile icon.

Keep in mind that the point of Discover is not to get likes but to learn and help others do the same. Thus, the number of likes on each of your images is almost entirely irrelevant and I recommend not paying attention to it all.

Conclusion

The Lightroom Mobile Discover feature is still in its infancy, and I’m excited to see where Adobe takes it in the coming years. Even though it’s still a bit rough around the edges in a few places, it’s an incredibly useful tool for learning more about the editing process. I hope you give it a chance and, if you learn anything from it, I’d love to have your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Become a Better Photo Editor with the New Lightroom Mobile ‘Discover’ Feature appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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7 Shots to Incorporate for Better Drone Photography

02 Jul

The post 7 Shots to Incorporate for Better Drone Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

better drone photography tips

Flying drones has become an extremely popular pastime in recent years. It can be both incredibly exciting (and also a little nerve-wracking) to see your drone take to the skies for the first time. As your flying skills grow and improve, it’s time to think of the range and variety of aerial images you shoot. Whether you’re coming to drones from a model aircraft background, a photography background, or with no previous experience, here are seven types of aerial shots you can incorporate in your repertoire for better drone photography.

Seven shots for better drone photography

So why seven different shots? The truth is, there’s no magic number of image taking techniques in any photographic situation, but I have highlighted seven different shots that I use on a regular basis that you can try out the next time you’re out flying.

One thing is for certain: buying a drone (like buying a camera) is not a sure-fire way to produce stunning images. It takes hard work and experimentation to get it right.

1. The horizon shot

This is one of the most common images beginner drone photographers take, where the drone is high above the ground and points straight ahead for a spectacular horizon shot. As with all photography, lighting is important for these shots – I’ve seen many horizon shots taken at the wrong time of the day, which does not flatter the landscape.

It’s also good to keep in mind the rule of thirds (and other compositional rules) for your shots – try to remember them when you position your drone camera angle.

I often see images with both the sky and land taking up half of the frame each. However, all rules are meant to be broken – I didn’t stick rigidly to the rule of thirds when I took this image of a remote beach in New South Wales.

Horizon shot of the stunning coastline in northern New South Wales.
Horizon shot of the stunning coastline in northern New South Wales.

When you’re taking your horizon shots, also make sure you take them in both portrait and landscape orientation for maximum versatility. You can even consider doing a large panorama of the horizon made up of multiple images while your drone is at that height.

2. The long overhead shot

Another common photo many beginners take is the long overhead shot. Ascending up to the maximum allowable height limit, pan your camera down towards the ground and take an overhead shot straight down towards the ground. Objects such as cars and boats appear tiny and you will barely be able to make out people in the image.

Long overhead shot at low tide on Brisbane's Bayside by Matt Murray - better drone photography
Long overhead shot at low tide on Brisbane’s Bayside.

Although these first two shots are an important part of your repertoire, there are many other possibilities for better drone photography, so remember to take a range of images when you’re flying.

3. The short overhead shot

Many drone photographers, especially beginners, think the higher up the better. This is not necessarily the case, as stunning, unique perspectives can be had from quite low altitudes.

Having your drone at even just 5-10 meters above the ground provides an opportunity to take an image with lots of interesting detail from a completely different perspective than you would usually see.

The image below is a close up of boats on Brisbane’s Bayside. I had just finished taking the long overhead shot and decided to bring the drone down to capture a close-up of boats from a much lower height. With a short overhead shot, you can capture a lot more detail of objects in the scene.

Better Drone photography by Matt Murray
Short overhead shot of boats on Brisbane’s Bayside.

People in the landscape

People in the landscape can often make captivating images. By placing one or more people in your scene, it adds interest and variety to your landscape images. With the added impact of having the unique aerial view from a drone, this is one way for you to create stunning drone images.

In the first image below, I watched as my daughter took her surfboard out into the sea off Iluka in New South Wales. Her presence adds interest to what would otherwise just be a shot of the beach.

a person entering the surf at the beach taken by a drone
Figure in the landscapes add an extra dimension to landscape photos.

In this next image taken in neighbouring Yamba, I took an overhead shot of the historic Ocean Baths. The image shows someone enjoying a morning swim, and a surfer heading across the beach.

Matt Murray's drone photo of Yamba Ocean Pool. Better Drone Photography
Figures in the landscape at Yamba’s Ocean Pool.

Leading lines

Leading lines are a common compositional technique. It’s where a line or lines lead your eye through the various elements of the photograph. I took this image of Urangan Pier in Hervey Bay, Australia an hour after sunrise. The lines of the pier lead your eye through the image to the mainland in the distance. The rule of thirds is also in play here.

There are lots of leading lines that you can use in your compositions for better drone photography – both natural and human-made. Look for them next time and make them work for you.

Leading lines in action - Urangan Pier at Hervey Bay in Queensland.
Leading lines in action – Urangan Pier at Hervey Bay in Queensland.

Textures

Sometimes when you fly your drone over repetitive landscapes, you may feel like there’s nothing worth photographing, but that isn’t always the case. Keep your eyes open for scenes that show textures in the landscape, such as the pine forest in the image below.

When I flew my DJI Mavic Pro over this area in rural Queensland, I was amazed by the textures of the pine needles on the trees below me, punctuated by the brown soil and the tree trunks.

Look for areas with repeating patterns of trees, sand, crops, anything!

Textures of a Queensland pine forest. 
 Brisbane drone photography by Matt Murray
Textures of a Queensland pine forest.

Abstract shot

One of the fantastic things about flying a drone is that it opens up new ways of seeing our beautiful world. I am constantly amazed by how landscapes look from an aerial perspective. With this in mind, look for better drone photography opportunities via abstract shots where there is a mix of colors, lines, and shapes on the ground below.

I took the image below at the beach in New South Wales. I love the yellow, whites and greens of the sand and sea.

Better drone photography
Beautiful abstract colors, shapes and textures of the beach in New South Wales.

Conclusion

Better drone photography is a combination of many things. Not only do you need to build your skills and confidence by improving your flying, but you also need to add variety to the types of images you take with your drone.

In this article I’ve featured some of the different types of shots I like to take when I’m flying my drone. Horizon shots are a staple among many drone photographers, as are long overhead shots. If you haven’t already, look for opportunities to take short overhead shots, textures, abstract images, and use leading lines. If it’s safe to do so, also look to incorporate people in your landscape images to add more interest and variety.

What other types of shots do you like to take for better drone photography? Tell us in the comments below. And if you haven’t bought a drone yet, be sure to check out my photographer’s guide to buying a drone.

The post 7 Shots to Incorporate for Better Drone Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.


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Are Full Frame Cameras Better in Low Light?

01 Jul

If you’ve been involved in photography for any time, you know there is a huge debate around full-frame cameras vs other sensor size cameras. Much like the Mac vs PC debate, or the iOS vs Android debate, this debate has shutterbugs riled up everywhere. Today, I am going to answer an important question from the debate, which is, are full-frame Continue Reading

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