With technology rapidly changing and becoming better every year, many people are asking the age-old question “which camera is better?” You now have an array of options including DSLR Cameras, Mirrorless Cameras, Phone Cameras and Point and Shoot Cameras. Having so many options can become overwhelming and make you wonder, where should I invest my money? But the truth is Continue Reading
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Archive for March, 2021
DSLR vs Mirrorless vs Smartphone vs Point and Shoot: Best Camera?
NASA Ingenuity helicopter prepares for the first powered, controlled flight on another planet
NASA has announced that it is preparing to launch its Ingenuity Mars Helicopter no earlier than April 8. Ingenuity’s maiden flight will mark the first attempt at a powered, controlled flight of an aircraft on another planet. Before Ingenuity can lift off, the team must meet numerous challenging milestones.
The Mars Perseverance Rover landed on Mars on February 18. Since then, the rover has been sending important images and data back to Earth while the team goes through different instrument checks and testing procedures. Since then, the Ingenuity Mars Helicopter has remained attached to the belly of Perseverance.
However, the operation has experienced progress. On March 21, Perseverance deployed the ‘guitar-case shaped graphite composite debris shield’ that protected Ingenuity when Perseverance landed last month. Perseverance is now in transit to the ‘airfield’ where Ingenuity will attempt to fly. After Ingenuity is deployed, the helicopter will have 30 Martian days, known as sols, to perform its test flight campaign. This is equal to 31 Earth days.
‘When NASA’s Sojourner rover landed on Mars in 1997, it proved that roving the Red Planet was possible and completely redefined our approach to how we explore Mars. Similarly, we want to learn about the potential Ingenuity has for the future of science research,’ said Lori Glaze, director of the Planetary Science Division at NASA Headquarters. ‘Aptly named, Ingenuity is a technology demonstration that aims to be the first powered flight on another world and, if successful, could further expand our horizons and broaden the scope of what is possible with Mars exploration.’
‘When NASA’s Ingenuity Mars Helicopter attempts its first test flight on the Red Planet, the agency’s Mars 2020 Perseverance rover will be close by, as seen in this artist’s concept.’ Caption and image credit: NASA/JPL-Caltech |
It’s difficult enough to get a helicopter to Mars, and that accomplishment is the result of years of work by many talented people and considerable financial resources. When designing Ingenuity, the team had to ensure it was small and light enough to be an acceptable payload for Perseverance. The helicopter is solar-powered, and it must be efficient enough to have the required energy to operate on Mars and survive cold Martian nights.
There are significant challenges to flying on Mars. The Red Planet has about one-third of Earth’s gravity, for starters, and the atmosphere is also only 1% as dense as Earth’s at the surface. The weather poses unique challenges, with nighttime temperatures dropping to -130° F (-90° C), which can wreak havoc on electrical components.
‘Members of the NASA Mars Helicopter team inspect the flight model (the actual vehicle going to the Red Planet), inside the Space Simulator, a 25-foot-wide (7.62-meter-wide) vacuum chamber at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory in Pasadena, California, on February 1, 2019.’ Caption and image credit: NASA/JPL-Caltech |
‘Every step we have taken since this journey began six years ago has been uncharted territory in the history of aircraft,’ said Bob Balaram, Mars Helicopter chief engineer at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory in Southern California. ‘And while getting deployed to the surface will be a big challenge, surviving that first night on Mars alone, without the rover protecting it and keeping it powered, will be an even bigger one.’
Once Ingenuity is in place, squarely in the center of its 33′ x 33′ (10m x 10m) airfield, the complicated deployment process can begin. ‘As with everything with the helicopter, this type of deployment has never been done before,’ said Farah Alibay, Mars Helicopter integration lead for the Perseverance rover. ‘Once we start the deployment there is no turning back. All activities are closely coordinated, irreversible, and dependent on each other…’
‘NASA’s Mars Perseverance rover’s descent stage was recently stacked atop the rover at Kennedy Space Center, and the two were placed in the back shell that will help protect them on their journey to Mars. In this image, taken on April 29, 2020, the underside of the rover is visible, along with the Ingenuity helicopter attached (lower center of the image). The outer ring is the base of the back shell, while the bell-shaped objects covered in red material are covers for engine nozzles on the descent stage. The wheels are covered in a protective material that will be removed before launch.’ Image and caption credit: NASA/JPL-Caltech |
If all goes according to plan, the deployment process will take six sols. On the sixth scheduled sol of the deployment phase, NASA states that ‘the team will need to confirm three things: that Ingenuity’s four legs are firmly on the surface of Jezero Crater, that the rover did, indeed, drive about 16 feet (about 5 meters) away, and that both helicopter and rover are communicating via their onboard radios. This milestone also initiates the 30-sol clock during which time all preflight checks and flight tests must take place.’
Artist’s rendition of the Perseverance rover and Ingenuity helicopter. Image credit: NASA/JPL-Caltech |
Ingenuity is not carrying special instruments, and unlike the rest of the mission, its goals are not scientific. Ingenuity is solely an experimental engineering test flight. The team wants to see if it can fly on Mars. When Ingenuity is ready to fly, JPL mission controllers will send and receive flight instructions through Perseverance. Hopefully, early next month, Ingenuity will successfully launch from Mars’ surface. When it does, it will mark a monumental achievement for NASA, JPL and countless others.
Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)
12 Tips for Stunning Black and White Street Photography
The post 12 Tips for Stunning Black and White Street Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.
Black and white street photography is classic and timeless. Stripping away color renders a rawness and an alternate reality to street life.
But merely removing the color will not make a compelling street shot. If you want to create strong street images with no color, you need to be intentional. And that’s what this article is all about.
I’m going to give you 12 tips for capturing beautiful black and white street photos. And by the time you’re done, your classic street photography will be much improved.
Why is black and white great for street photography?
Choosing monochrome for street photography can make for great images. That’s because black and white photos often appear more emotional or mysterious. There’s something missing, so we automatically have a sense of wonder.
Whether you are out in the streets or working on the highway, your street photos will convey a different mood in black and white. If you’re intentional about creating this feeling from the start, you can make your photos more compelling.
So how do you take beautiful black and white street photographs?
Here are my 12 best tips:
1. Start well
Pay attention to your camera settings so you can capture in-focus and well-exposed images.
When you nail your settings, you’ll get image files you can work with in post-production.
For instance, you’ll be able to manipulate a well-exposed image without risking quality degradation. Even with the simplicity of black and white, you need to be careful to maintain image structure.
So know the look you want to capture, then choose the camera settings that will achieve it.
2. Think in black and white
Digital photography means it’s easy to capture images in color and later decide to render them in black and white. This will sometimes create good monochrome photos, but not always.
Thinking in black and white and intentionally shooting without color is best.
Despite the amount of control that’s available when converting color photos to grayscale, pictures deliberately taken for black and white editing are often stronger.
3. Look at light and tone contrasts
Without color, you must rely more on tone and light to shape your images.
When you compose your photos, look for where light and dark meet. How do these tones relate to each other? What graphic impact do they have on your composition?
Tone is largely dictated by light. If you are out in the street on a sunny versus a cloudy day, this will affect the style and mood of the photos you’ll be able to take.
Think about how the light looks in black and white – and work with it because you cannot change it.
4. Think “figure to ground”
Figure-to-ground photography is when the main subject sits in stark contrast to the background. This means your subject is most prominent in your photo, even if it only occupies a small portion of the frame.
You can create this look when your subject is in the sun and the background is in the shade:
Or when your subject is in the shade and you have a very bright background. (A silhouette is another example of figure-to-ground photography.)
5. Find a good background
Finding a good background is important for color or black and white street photography. However, when working in monochrome, your background choice is influenced more by lighting.
Will a background that’s completely in the sun or in the shade suit your subject best? Will the type of images you want to create be stronger if there’s more or less tonal contrast in the background?
Once you find a good background, be patient. Wait for some interesting activity to occur – and when it does, take a photo.
6. Be comfortable with what you’re doing
The more comfortable and confident you are when you are out taking photos, the better your images will be.
So if you’re not comfortable in one location, move somewhere else, because worrying about your situation will distract you from being creative.
When you are comfortable, you’ll be able to think more clearly and visualize the scene in black and white. Focus your thoughts on how the parts of your image will look. Observe the colors and imagine how they will look when converted to grayscale.
Don’t get consumed with worries about how other people will notice you and what they might think.
7. Aim for timelessness
Black and white street photography can have a certain timelessness to it.
But how can you deliberately create a timeless effect?
Look at what you’re including in your compositions. See if you can create some images containing nothing that would indicate when they were taken.
For instance, avoid things like cars and motorcycles. Smartphones are another element that dates a picture.
Think about the items you include and ask yourself:
Would they have been in your picture if you had taken it fifty years earlier?
This can be a fun exercise and could be developed into an ongoing project.
8. Compose well
Be aware of everything you include in your frame. Make sure to only shoot what’s relevant to the main subject and to the style of photograph you want to create.
If you are capturing too much and it’s not making your photo stronger, move closer or change your focal length.
Look at the light and shadow and use these intentionally as compositional elements. Include strong shadows to help shape your images. Frame your subject with light and dark areas.
Don’t only focus on capturing a moving subject at the decisive moment; make sure to include it meaningfully in your composition.
9. Use negative space
Filling your frame does not mean it needs to be cluttered. When it’s intentional, negative space in your black and white street photography can be used very effectively.
When space is left in a photograph without purpose, it weakens the image. But deliberately including empty space will often create a more compelling image.
Think about the lighting and tone in the empty space. Is it going to take away from the main subject? Or will it help the main subject stand out?
10. Take your time
Whatever genre of photography you enjoy, taking your time and not rushing will empower you to capture better photos.
Slow down. Observe what’s happening around you as you are out taking black and white street images.
Look for patterns of movement. When you find them, they will help you predict the best times to take photos.
Watch for when the decisive moment happens and be ready to capture it.
11. Manage your camera settings
Being in control of how your camera autofocuses and exposes your photos means you can be more precise and more creative.
I prefer to use single-point focus as it allows me to focus on the part of my composition I want sharp. If your camera has touchscreen focusing, you can do precise focusing very quickly and easily.
Manual mode and semi-automatic exposure modes put you in charge of which tones in your image will be well exposed. Sometimes, you may want shadows to render black. Other times, you may want highlights to completely blow out while you capture shadow detail. You can manage all of this in Manual mode.
12. Use a higher ISO
Setting a higher ISO allows you to use a faster shutter speed and a narrower aperture.
And when you want to freeze movement, a fast shutter speed is invaluable.
So don’t be afraid to boost your ISO!
Black and white street photography: conclusion
Black and white street photography looks classic. But capturing images with the intention of rendering them in monochrome requires that you think carefully about the light and tones in your compositions.
So before you head out with your camera, take a look at some black and white street photography from the masters. Check out Bruce Davidson, William Klein, and Robert Doisneau, for starters. Look for the secrets of style in their work and let it inspire you.
And remember the tips I’ve shared today!
Now over to you:
What’s your favorite tip from this article? Which tip are you going to implement immediately in your work? Share your thoughts (and your black and white street photos) in the comments below!
Because it’s classic and timeless.
All image-editing software allows you to convert images to black and white. Desaturating is the simplest way to make a color photo black and white, but it will not bring out the best in the image. You will see better results by controlling the conversion.
You can adjust your LCD so it shows you a black and white image. On cameras with electronic viewfinders, you can also do this with the display. When you capture a RAW image, it’ll be in color; by converting to black and white from a RAW file, you’ll get the highest-quality results.
Black and white can make an image look timeless!
The post 12 Tips for Stunning Black and White Street Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.
How to Create a Glitch Effect in Photoshop (Step By Step)
The post How to Create a Glitch Effect in Photoshop (Step By Step) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
Ever wondered how to create a glitch effect in Photoshop?
That’s what this article is all about.
While glitch art embraces technological mishaps, there are simple ways to introduce a glitch art effect in Photoshop.
And in this article, we’ll take a look at how to get glitchy with a quick-and-easy Photoshop process!
Let’s get started.
What is a Photoshop glitch effect?
Glitches are visual or sonic flaws that are inherent in our digital landscape. Glitch art is made by deliberately capturing these organic glitches, manually corrupting digital media, or physically manipulating electronic devices to cultivate glitched imagery.
Instantly recognizable yet difficult to produce, the glitch aesthetic has fascinated many, with innovative artists harnessing glitches to create unique artworks that explore the fabric of our digital world.
Rewiring Kodak DC series digital cameras to create evocative auroras, Phillip Stearns subverts the nature of digital photography. Art theorist, curator, and visual artist Rosa Menkman also investigates glitch art in the form of video compression and feedback. On her website, Menkman says, “A glitch can be understood as a technological failure, but also as a space for artistic creation.”
Glitches are unstable in themselves, so they’re difficult to anticipate and capture successfully.
But different techniques have emerged to mimic a glitch aesthetic and create evocative, glitchy effects. A Photoshop glitch effect is a way to simulate the glitch aesthetic without the traditional corruption of data.
When should you use a glitch effect?
Glitch art is a visual manifestation of our modern technological climate. Glitches can seem both futuristic and retro, abstract or figurative – but like many art forms, they can also take time to cultivate.
Although creating a glitch effect in Photoshop isn’t an organic source of glitch artistry, the process can be easier to manipulate and control.
So if you’re looking to create glitchy imagery but don’t have the time, equipment, or know-how to wrangle a glitch in the wild, applying a glitchy effect in Photoshop can be a way to explore the unique potential of glitchy aesthetics.
Now let’s take a closer look at how you can actually create a Photoshop glitch effect:
How to create a glitch effect in Photoshop: step by step
To get started, first select an image and open it in Photoshop.
For this project, just about any image will do. I recommend using an image with some variation in color, but you can try a portrait, a landscape, an object study, or something else entirely.
Here’s my starter image:
Step 1: Start with the Channels panel
To work non-destructively, first right-click on your chosen image in the Layers panel and select Duplicate Layer.
In the pop-up window, rename the layer Glitch and click OK.
To apply our glitch effect, we need to work in the Channels panel.
So with the Glitch layer selected, click the Channels tab or go Window>Channels.
Once the Channels panel is open, you’ll see four channels:
RBG, Red, Green, and Blue.
Click on the Red channel to select it. Then, with the Red channel highlighted, select the Filter dropdown menu from the topmost Photoshop toolbar and select Distort>Wave.
In the Waves window, you’ll need to make a few adjustments. The screenshot below shows the settings I generally stick to, but a bit of experimentation can be a good idea, too.
Once you’ve picked your settings, click the Randomize button until you get an interesting preview.
Then select OK.
Next, select either the Blue or Green channel in the Channels panel.
Again, select Filter>Distort>Wave. Your previous settings should be saved in the current Wave window, so just click Randomize a few times and then click OK.
Click on the RGB channel, and you’ll have an effect similar to this:
Step 2: Add a filter
First, return to the Layers panel by clicking on the Layers tab.
Right-click on the Glitch layer and select Duplicate Layer. In the pop-up window, name this duplicate layer Filter, then select OK.
Make sure your color swatches are set to the default (black foreground and white background) or press the “D” key. With the Filter layer selected, go to Filter on the topmost toolbar and then Filter Gallery.
In the Filter Gallery, you have a couple of options to choose from. The Grain filter (under the Texture heading) adds a grainy effect to an image. For glitchy projects, I usually set the Intensity slider here to around 90, the Contrast slider to 50, and the Grain Type drop-down menu to Regular.
Reticulation (under the Sketch heading) can add an eye-catching density to the overall image.
For that filter, I often set the Density slider to around 10-12, the Foreground Level slider to 40, and the Background Level to no more than 10.
The Halftone Pattern filter (also under the Sketch heading) will add vertical lines to an image so it looks like an old TV broadcast.
Adjust the settings for the Halftone Pattern so that the Pattern Type dropdown menu is set to Line. Dial the Size slider to 3 or 4 and set the Contrast slider to 1 or 2.
Film Grain (under the Artistic heading), Texturizer (under the Texture heading), and even Graphic Pen (under the Sketch heading) are also useful filters to experiment with; they’ll add texture and the impression of digital deterioration.
Once you have a filter selected and set, click OK.
Step 3: Select the right blend mode
The next step in how to create a glitch effect in Photoshop is to work with blend modes.
Once your filter is applied, select the Filter layer again and choose a suitable blending mode from the Blending Mode drop-down menu located in the Layers panel.
Different blend modes work differently depending on the image, so don’t be afraid to experiment.
For the image below, I used the Halftone filter combined with the Luminosity blending mode.
Step 4: Add finishing touches
After applying the filter and a blending mode, your image might look a little bland.
So create a Vibrance adjustment layer in the Adjustments panel and give the Vibrance slider a boost.
If the image is still a bit dull, boost the color saturation with the Saturation slider. You can also make adjustments using a Curves layer.
Here’s my final image:
How to create a glitch effect in Photoshop: conclusion
And that’s it! You should now be well equipped to create a beautiful glitch effect in Photoshop.
And though it doesn’t technically create glitch art, this method is an interesting way of presenting digital photographs that remind us about the unique potential and inherent fragility of our technological landscape.
Now over to you:
What subject are you going to use with the glitch effect? Share your glitchy photos in the comments below!
The post How to Create a Glitch Effect in Photoshop (Step By Step) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
How to Photograph Into the Light for Stunning Results
The post How to Photograph Into the Light for Stunning Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
In this article, I’ll explain how to photograph into the light.
This technique is sometimes called contre-jour, a French term that literally translates to “against the light.”
Now, there are various ways you can approach this style of photography. You can choose to photograph stunning silhouettes, or you can attempt to mitigate dark areas in your photo through post-processing.
To discover the best ways of photographing into the light, read on!
Why should you photograph into the light?
Photographing into the light is a great way to add drama to your photos.
(Note that photographing into the light is also known as backlit photography.)
But to get nice images, you’ll need to have a good understanding of how the light will interact with your camera.
Now, almost everyone will have shot against the light at some point (e.g., when photographing a sunrise or sunset).
But if you can understand how to control the light across your frame, you can create especially incredible results.
For instance, one of the most obvious effects you’ll see when doing backlit photography is a silhouette, which I discuss in the next section.
How to create stunning silhouettes
Silhouettes are shapes formed by objects in front of a brighter background.
They’re very appealing to photographers because you can produce powerful shapes, which will give your images a very graphic feel.
You won’t get good silhouettes by just pointing the camera into the light, however. Some planning is needed to get the best result.
Specifically, you’ll want:
- A low angle: Silhouettes are best when the entire silhouetted shape sits against the bright background. Since the background is usually the sky, getting down to a low angle to photograph upward is best.
- A clear horizon line: Other than the objects you want to silhouette, try to avoid placing other elements on the horizon line. This often means a clear horizon line is best. Also, avoid having objects overlap with the main subject you’re silhouetting.
- To expose for the sky: Expose for the bright background; this will lead to dark, beautifully silhouetted foreground objects.
- Other elements: Include other elements such as framing, lines, and repetition that draw the eye toward your silhouette.
Drama in the sky
The sky is an important part of your photos, especially if you’re a landscape photographer. And photographing into the light can lead to some of the best results.
What you’re looking for are beautiful sunset colors, rays of light coming through clouds, and perhaps a starburst effect from the sun.
You’ll need to choose the correct time of day to improve your results – often sunrise or sunset. The hour before sunset and the hour after sunrise are also optimal.
The final key element is often about 30% cloud coverage.
Here are a few quick tips for photographing backlit landscapes:
- Pay attention to the weather forecast: Check ahead for the forecast and use satellite images of the clouds in your area. That way, you can know with greater certainty if the sky will look good.
- Arrive early: Arriving an hour ahead of the ideal light will help you plan your photo, and you’ll be ready if you get unexpected rays of sunshine breaking through the clouds ahead of when you want to photograph.
- Compose with leading lines: If possible, use leading lines to guide the eye toward the sun or to an interesting area of the sky.
Balancing the light
When photographing silhouettes, an underexposed foreground is what you want – but what if you’re after a detailed background and a detailed foreground?
For the best result, you’ll need to balance the light throughout your photo. Otherwise, you’ll produce an overexposed sky or an underexposed foreground.
There are two approaches you can use; one is in-camera, and the other uses post-processing.
- Filters: Graduated neutral density filters are a great way to balance the light across your photo. These come in different strengths, so you can adapt your setup to the scene in front of you.
- Digital blending: Combine a series of bracketed photos in post-processing. This approach uses luminosity masks and layers in Photoshop.
- Combination: The best approach is to combine the above methods. Get the exposure as correct as possible in-camera, then use post-processing to enhance your results further.
How to handle flare
Photographing into the light can lead to flare in your photos.
While flare can be used artistically, you’ll at least want to control it. And you’ll sometimes need to prevent the flare entirely.
Use the following tips to control flare in your photos:
- Choose your lens carefully: A lens with a smaller number of elements will cause less flare. So use a prime lens when possible.
- Add a lens hood: Use your lens hood to block stray light.
- Use a narrow aperture: When the sun is partially obscured by clouds, tree leaves, or the horizon line, use a small aperture such as f/11; you can give the sun a starburst effect.
- Block the sun: Stick your hand in the image and cover the sun. Then take a second photo, this time without your hand. You can combine these two images in post-processing using layer masking. The final image won’t have your hand or flare.
Natural or artificial?
Photographing into the light usually means photographing toward the sun, or photographing from a dark location (e.g., under a bridge) toward the light.
In such cases, the light source is natural and can’t be controlled. However, if you use off-camera flash, you can control the direction of the light.
So try using strobes to produce silhouettes or to backlight your subject. And at night, try light painting, and make sure the light source is behind your main subject.
Photographing into the light is right!
Successfully photographing into the light can be a bit of a challenge.
But with the right approach and the correct camera settings, you’ll get great results!
Now over to you:
Do you enjoy photographing into the light? What are your favorite situations for producing backlit images? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!
The post How to Photograph Into the Light for Stunning Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples)
The post Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
If you’re like most photographers, your first “serious” camera came with a kit lens, probably a standard, 18-55mm option.
But is a kit lens worth keeping? Is it capable of taking great images? Or should you immediately upgrade to a more expensive option?
That’s what I aim to address in this article.
I’m going to show how a kit lens, despite its shortcomings, can get you stunning images (and I give plenty of examples along the way!). I’m also going to give you a few quick tips for working with an 18-55mm lens.
Let’s dive right in.
Is a kit lens bad for photography?
Most kit lenses are, by nature, inexpensive (a polite way of saying cheap).
And that’s understandable – manufacturers are in competition with one another and they keep the prices of their camera bundles down by creating inexpensive kit lenses. A kit lens will get you started, and you can buy other, better-quality lenses when you outgrow it.
But if kit lenses are cheap, does that mean you should go out and buy a better lens straight away?
No, it doesn’t. No matter what anyone says, or how much you lust after expensive glass, your kit lens is a great way to get started with serious photography. If you’re in a position where you can’t afford to buy another lens, or you simply just don’t know which lens to buy, don’t sweat it. You’ll be surprised by what you can do with your kit lens once you know how to get the best out of it.
Don’t believe me?
Then check out this blog post by Jingna Zhang – a professional fashion and editorial photographer. She’s good, and she got her start with an EOS 350D and the 18-55mm kit lens that came with it. The quality of images she created with that camera and kit lens is very high. Take a look, and you’ll see what I mean.
Her article resonated with me because I got started with the same camera and lens combination. I didn’t know what lenses to buy for my camera, so I decided to stick with a kit lens and took it with me on a trip to South America.
I soon realized the lens wasn’t a great one; thankfully, it has been discontinued, and Canon sells a much better kit lens with its entry-level cameras.
However, despite the relatively poor image quality, some of the photos I took with that lens were good enough for publication. I illustrated my first published article, a piece in Practical Photography, with photos taken using the kit lens:
And several more of the photos were published in other photography magazines. My Canon 18-55mm wasn’t the world’s best lens, but it was good enough to get me started (and the Practical Photography article was a turning point for me because it helped me believe I could make it as a writer).
Getting the best out of your kit lens
So how do you get the best out of a kit lens? My approach is to think of it as two lenses in one.
If you have a kit lens that ranges from 18mm to 55mm (the standard kit lens focal length), then treat it as an 18mm lens and a 55mm lens in one body.
The 18mm is a moderate wide-angle lens that is great for landscapes, architecture, and environmental portraiture. The 55mm end makes for a short telephoto lens, ideal for compressing perspective when taking portraits or closing in on small details.
That doesn’t mean you can’t use the middle focal lengths, and there are times when you can’t avoid them. But by sticking with the short and long end of the lens, you will learn how those focal lengths behave.
After all, lenses are the “eye” of your camera system, and your photos will improve as you learn the characteristics of each focal length.
Some kit lenses also have another useful feature: image stabilization.
(Note that image stabilization is Canon’s term, while Nikon calls this vibration reduction.)
Image stabilization lets you take photos at slower shutter speeds than would otherwise be possible. So theoretically, you could hand-hold the camera, set the focal length of the lens to 18mm, drop the shutter speed, and take a photo without camera shake – even at 1/4s or even 1/2s.
That’s awesome for low-light shooting, and it lets you explore the creative potential of taking photos in the evening or at night.
Your kit lens as wide-angle glass (18mm)
The photos below were taken at the 18mm end of my kit lens.
You can see how I got in close to the subject, sometimes even tilting the lens backward to take advantage of the effect of the converging verticals.
Your kit lens as short telephoto glass (55mm)
These photos were all taken at the 55mm end of my kit lens.
They have a completely different quality, thanks to the compressed perspective and limited depth of field.
Shortcomings of kit lenses
As you now know, your kit lens is probably a better lens than you originally thought.
That said, kit lenses aren’t incredible, and they do have several shortcomings. At some point, you will bump up against these limitations.
(Running into limitations is not a bad thing. It simply indicates that you’re at the stage where a different lens will help you take better photos.)
These are the main drawbacks of kit lenses:
Limited focal length: You may find that even the 18mm end of your kit lens is not wide enough for the photos you’re after. In that case, it’s time to start thinking about buying a new (even wider) wide-angle lens.
On the other hand, if you find that the 55mm end doesn’t get you as close as you would like to your subject, then you need a telephoto lens. This may happen if you’re interested in photographing wildlife or sports, for example.
Slow autofocus: The autofocus on kit lenses tends to be slower and noisier than autofocus on more expensive lenses. If the autofocus performance of your kit lens is holding you back, it may be time to upgrade.
Narrow maximum aperture: Kit lenses are slow lenses. In other words, they don’t have a wide maximum aperture. The reason is simple: the wider the maximum aperture, the larger the lens body and lens elements required, which pushes up manufacturing costs. So kit lenses are made with relatively small maximum apertures to keep the price down.
The maximum aperture at the 55mm end of most kit lenses is around f/5.6. If this isn’t wide enough, you can buy a zoom that covers the same focal length with a maximum aperture of f/4 or f/2.8, or a 50mm prime lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 or wider. The wider apertures on these lenses will help you take photos in low light or use a shallow depth of field creatively.
Subpar build quality: Kit lenses tend to be pretty plasticky, so if you often knock your camera around or shoot in bad weather, then you may need a better-built option. The top lenses in each manufacturer’s range have metal bodies, metal mounts, and weatherproofing.
Why your kit lens is better than you think: conclusion
Kit lenses have a bad reputation, but they’re actually pretty great for beginner photographers.
So don’t feel you need to upgrade the moment you purchase a camera. Recognize that your kit lens can take stunning photos – as long as you know how to use it well!
And just have fun playing with your kit lens and experimenting.
Now over to you:
Do you use a kit lens? If so, what do you think of it? Are you pleased with it? Do you plan to upgrade? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below!
The post Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.
A Beginner’s Guide to Light Modifiers (For Stunning Portraits)
The post A Beginner’s Guide to Light Modifiers (For Stunning Portraits) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Gina Milicia.
Light modifiers are a powerful way to shape or control light.
And with the right approach, you can use modifiers to achieve beautifully lit, gorgeous portraits.
In this article, I’m going to share everything you need to know about modifiers. I’ll take you through all the most popular modifiers – and I’ll explain precisely what they do and why you might want to use them.
By the time you’re done, you’ll be a light modification expert!
Let’s get started.
Are light modifiers really necessary?
Technically, you can do portrait photography without modifiers. You can shoot with a subject and an unmodified flash.
However, a naked flash produces hard light and harsh shadows, which I think look really unflattering.
That’s why I rarely work without some sort of diffusion modifier. It softens the light, softens the shadows, and gives you a flattering end result.
Nobody is ever going to tell you, “Wow, I love the way your hard lighting has captured and enhanced every single pore, line, and blemish on my skin. I actually look ten years older. Thanks!”
Hence, it’s often a good idea to start with soft, carefully modified lighting.
There are, of course, many really cool uses for hard lighting, and some photographers can make it look brilliant. I’m just not one of them. I like to control the light and only illuminate certain areas of my shot.
Therefore, for me, modifiers are absolutely essential.
A quick note about light modifier costs
Every kind of light modifier will have a top-of-the-line version and a really cheap version.
The main difference is that the cheaper versions won’t be as durable. This becomes important when you’re using them every single day.
So once you become an experienced studio photographer, it makes sense to invest in high-quality modifiers.
When you’re learning to use modifiers, however, I recommend choosing cheap versions. They’ll perform just fine, and you’ll save yourself a lot of money.
How to choose the perfect modifier for a photoshoot
Different modifiers affect the light in different ways.
Some modifiers broaden the beam to soften the light. Other modifiers narrow the beam to harden the light.
So when selecting a modifier, ask yourself:
What kind of lighting am I trying to create?
If you’re after the soft, diffused effect you’d get from an overcast sky, you might want to consider one of these modifiers:
But if you want a harder light source like the sun on a cloudless day, try one of these modifiers instead:
Note that, if you’re shooting outside or near windows, your choice of modifier should depend on the ambient light. Harsh sunlight should be combined with hard modifiers, and cloudy light should be combined with soft modifiers.
Make sense?
When picking a modifier, it’s also important to consider the mood you’re after. Soft light gives ethereal, beautiful portraits, whereas hard light tends to be more intense, in-your-face, and dramatic.
Now let’s take a look at the different light modifiers in much greater detail, starting with:
The umbrella
An umbrella creates a quality of light that is soft, abundant, and very forgiving.
Umbrellas are a great choice if you want to light a large area with flat, even lighting. Because umbrellas are easy to use and relatively cheap, they are a good beginner’s light modifier.
On the other hand, umbrellas tend to over-light scenes, spreading lots of light around.
Lots of light. All over the place. Like a hose with its spray nozzle set to “everywhere.”
So think of umbrellas as an only-use-in-case-of-emergency style of lighting. If you overuse them, things tend to get a bit ugly.
Types of umbrella light shapers
There are a few types of umbrellas you should consider:
- Silver/gold reflective umbrella: These babies throw light everywhere. They are great for lighting large groups of people. The silver umbrella will give you a slightly cooler light while the gold umbrella creates warmer light. Both produce a slightly harder result than the white reflective umbrella.
- White reflective umbrella: This umbrella creates soft light with slightly less spread and contrast than the silver and gold reflective umbrellas. Because the style of light allows people to move around a lot while staying in a consistently even source of light, white umbrellas are great to use when you are shooting groups and couples under pressure, such as for an event.
- White shoot-through umbrella: These are perfect as your first light modifier, as they diffuse and spread light quite evenly.
Umbrellas are a great first light modifier
When my children were young, I taught them how to ride bikes using training wheels. The wheels boosted their confidence. After a while, I took the training wheels off, and they rode on two wheels as if they’d been doing it all their lives.
I think using flash with an umbrella is the same. Use an umbrella as a learning tool until you get your balance, then move on to a better bike.
A final note on umbrellas
Umbrellas are great for indoor lighting.
But they’re tricky – and even downright dangerous – to use outside.
I’ve had countless (expensive) lights blown over when using umbrellas. So if you must use them outdoors, then please make sure you have somebody holding them or sandbags to keep them in place.
The scrim
After you’ve ditched your umbrella training wheels, the next step is to work with a scrim panel.
A scrim is a square or rectangular frame with a fabric diffusion material stretched across, like this:
Scrims are a really cool way to create large areas of soft, diffused light as if you’re shooting next to a large window or have clouds over the sun. And they’re great for diffusing flash, continuous light, and sunshine.
Remember: The larger the light source, the softer the light.
In fact, of all the light modifiers, a scrim is probably the most versatile and a must have in your kit.
This is a piece of equipment that you can easily make yourself. I used a DIY scrim for my first 10 years as a photographer.
The softbox
Softboxes are low-cost and versatile modifiers that create a beautiful, soft, easily controllable light source.
If I could only pick one light modifier to take to a deserted island, it would have to be the softbox. Small, medium, or large, this little puppy is my go-to light source for 80% of my shoots.
Why? The quality of light is soft, flattering, and malleable. Changing the angle and proximity of the softbox to the sitter easily changes the hardness of the light and the direction of the shadow.
It’s one of the light modifiers that most accurately recreates the effect of soft daylight coming through a window. I think what I like most about this light modifier is that it’s subtle. Highlights gently merge into shadows.
This image of a racecar driver, Glauco Junior Solleri, was taken using a speedlight and a small Lumiquest softbox:
For the above photo, I only wanted to light Glauco’s face and let the background fade to black. If I had used an umbrella, I would’ve sprayed light everywhere, illuminating the entire background and killing my moody vibe.
In fact, I think I love this light modifier more than Nutella.
(There! I said it.)
Softbox options
I use a few different kinds of softboxes depending on where and what I’m shooting.
If I’m doing a studio shoot, I love using a softbox with a white reflective interior. The white interior creates a softer look, and this particular softbox has an extra layer of diffusion on the inside, adding even more softness to the light.
Some photographers remove the interior panel because they like the added contrast of harder light, but I prefer less contrast.
You can also increase the spread and contrast of your light by using silver or gold interior panels.
The beauty dish
The beauty dish differs from other light modifiers because it gives you a distinctive circular, soft-contrast light, which is perfect for lighting faces and defining bone structures such as cheekbones and chin lines.
Beauty dishes also create a circular catchlight in your model’s eyes, which looks quite natural.
(You can see why these modifiers are popular with fashion/beauty and celebrity photographers.)
The downside of beauty dishes is that the falloff from light to dark is very rapid, so you’ll often get shadows under your model’s chin and nose. You can compensate for the shadows by adding a fill board, like a white reflector, to reflect light up into your subject’s face.
The beauty dish I have was pretty cheap, which goes to show that you don’t need to shell out a lot of money for every piece of equipment. I like mine because it works with my speedlight, my Elinchrom monolight, and my battery flashes.
I like that kind of versatility in equipment because it means I have more options on the day of the shoot and less to carry around!
Why should you use a beauty dish?
A beauty dish gives you a certain look. It will light a small area and flatten out your model’s features.
Beauty dishes make people look great, but you need to light your model in a very specific way – from above – to really pull it off.
The gridspot
The gridspot is a bit of kit you can use in conjunction with a speedlight, monolight, or battery-operated flash. The width of the grid and the size of the holes will affect the width of the light beam hitting your subject.
A gridspot creates hard, focused light. I love to use gridspots in the same way I use beauty lights.
Here are some portrait images I did with Australian actor Scott McGregor, showing lighting without a gridspot (left) and with a gridspot (right):
Why should you use a gridspot?
I like using gridspots because they create a similar light to beauty dishes. The light is a bit harder, but gridspots are perfect for single portraits; you can pop light onto someone’s face and shoulders without impacting the background mood.
Gridspots are also perfect for outdoor use as they won’t get blown about.
Fresnel light
A Fresnel is a light modifier that can be focused. They were first used in lighthouses, then the technology was developed in continuous lighting for movies and television.
The Fresnel light modifier gives a soft, crisp, and very distinct look to portraits.
In this photo of Australian actor Robbie Magasiva, I’ve placed the Fresnel light slightly to camera right to create a shadow. I’ve softened the light with an umbrella to increase the amount of daylight fill.
Fresnel lighting is soft and crisp, reminiscent of 1940s portrait lighting. It’s a style that has become really popular lately, particularly with fashion and editorial photographers.
The downside of this type of lighting is that it’s pretty expensive.
Octabox
An octabox is what you’d get if a softbox and an umbrella merged into one.
An octabox serves up soft light just like a softbox. But it spreads its light around more, just like an umbrella.
Octaboxes are fantastic for lighting large groups evenly. Plus, they give round catchlights.
Here are two different ways to use the Rotalux Deep Octabox. The image on the left of actor Firass Dirani is shot with a deep octabox as a beauty dish. The light source is hard and drops off rapidly under Dirani’s chin to add contrast; this not only defines and sculpts his features but also gives the image an edgy look.
The image on the right, of actor Harley Bonner, is shot using the same Rotalux Deep Octabox. But this time, I’ve added the interior and exterior baffle to give a much softer light, and this blends in with the muted light and low-key feel I was going for.
I don’t own a standard octabox because I’m not a huge fan. But my Rotalux Deep Octabox offers more directed lighting and is a match made in heaven for lighting single portraits.
Mixing modifiers
I often mix my lighting modifiers to make my images more interesting.
In this television promotional shot I did for Fat Tony and Co., I used a medium-deep octabox as my main light and a gridspot as a hair light. I also added an umbrella for fill light on camera left because the deep octabox alone was too moody, and I wanted more detail in the shadows.
So don’t be afraid to use several different modifiers in a single shot!
A beginner’s guide to light modifiers: conclusion
Well, there you have it!
You’re now ready to use light modifiers like a professional.
So grab a modifier or two, start shooting, and have fun!
Now over to you:
Which of the light modifiers on this list appeals to you the most? Which is your favorite? Share your thoughts (and example images!) in the comments below.
The post A Beginner’s Guide to Light Modifiers (For Stunning Portraits) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Gina Milicia.
Weekly Photo Challenge – Eyes
The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Eyes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
They say eyes are the window to your soul, I say “I almost always want my eyes to be in sharp focus!” but each to their own! This week we really want to see your interpretation of ‘Eyes’ – #dPSEyes
Now, I guess the first thing we think of when we think of eyes are the things we see with, right? But there are many more options when it comes to photography! It doesn’t just have to be your eye, up close, lookin’ all crazy! Let’s make a list…
- Your eyes
- Someone else’s eyes
- The eye of a needle
- The eye of the storm
- Your pet’s eyes!
- Something that looks like an eye?
Missed a Challenge? Don’t sweat it, find all of our previous challenges here!
So many options when it comes to eyes, but the main goal of these challenges is to be creative in your photos, to make you think about different ways to photograph your subject – if you want to set your camera up on a tripod (or the bench) and photograph your eye, you need to think about lighting and angles to best capture all the crazy details in your eye (Yes, I’ve done this, with a macro and lots of light – it’s crazy!)
As ever, post your photographs here, in the comments (there are instructions at the bottom of this post) or visit us on the socials and post and tag your photographs there! Whenever, wherever, we look forward to seeing what you photograph!
Share on Instagram or Twitter and use the hashtag #dPSEyes so we can see them!
How do I upload my photo to the comments?
Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.
Eye!
If you get stuck, leave a comment below or drop us a note on the dPS help desk! support@digital-photography-school.com
The post Weekly Photo Challenge – Eyes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.
The Nikon Z9 Is Officially in Development. Here’s What We Know So Far.
The post The Nikon Z9 Is Officially in Development. Here’s What We Know So Far. appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Earlier this month, Nikon officially announced its flagship Z-series camera, the Nikon Z9.
Designed for professionals, the Z9 will likely follow in the footsteps of the Canon EOS R5 and the Sony a1, both of which offer an unprecedented combination of high resolution, fast shooting speeds, class-leading video, and top-notch autofocus.
So while the Nikon Z9 will undoubtedly appeal as a mirrorless successor to the action-centric Nikon D6, the camera will also be suitable for event photographers, wildlife photographers, and hybrid shooters, as well as jack-of-all-trades professionals who require an all-in-one solution.
Nikon’s official announcement revealed little about the Z9 aside from its name, its release year (2021), and a few hints about shooting capabilities. The Z9 boasts 8K video and “utilizes a newly developed FX-format stacked CMOS sensor and new image-processing engine.” Nikon claims that the Z9 will serve up “the best still and video performance in Nikon history, meeting the advanced needs of professionals in a wide range of genres.”
But what else can we expect from the Nikon Z9?
Well, just prior to Nikon’s official announcement, Nikon Rumors published a series of Z9 specifications, and they are impressive. Take a look:
- A 45, 50, or 60 MP full-frame sensor (likely 50 MP, according to Nikon Rumors)
- A “D6 body combined with EOS R5 imaging, a9 II AF, and blackout-free EVF”
- 20 frames-per-second continuous shooting
- 8K/30p recording, as well as 4K/120p
- Dual XQD/CFexpress card slots
- “Improved noise levels and specifically significantly better dynamic range”
- “Improved AF” and “‘stunning’ AF tracking (better than the D6)”
- An ultra-capable electronic viewfinder, offering blackout-free performance
In other words, the Nikon Z9 will be a high-resolution, rugged, lightning-fast, and video-capable camera – the perfect all-around pick for serious professionals and very much in line with Nikon’s claim of “the best still and video performance in Nikon history.”
Regarding the release date:
Nikon Rumors suggests the fall of 2021, though you should be prepared for some delays thanks to COVID-related supply problems.
Nikon Rumors also claims the price will come in between $ 6000 and $ 7000 USD – expensive, yes, but fully compatible with Nikon’s D6-series pricing (you can currently purchase the D6, body only, for around $ 6500), and on par with the Sony a1 (which weighs in at $ 6500 USD).
Of course, for many shooters, the Nikon Z9 is unobtainable, or an excessive amount of camera, or both. But the Z9 isn’t just a new camera; it’s also a sign of Nikon’s dedication to its Z-series lineup and a look at the latest and greatest mirrorless technology (technology that may eventually trickle down into lower-priced models).
And for those who are considering the Z9, you shouldn’t have too long to wait!
Now over to you:
What do you think of the Nikon Z9? Is it a camera you plan to purchase? Are there any features that you want the Z9 to include? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The post The Nikon Z9 Is Officially in Development. Here’s What We Know So Far. appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Top 65 Modeling Agencies in the US and Tips for Models
Modeling is one of those extremely competitive careers complete with its own fairytale-like model discovery stories. We’ve all heard about how Kate Moss was discovered at JFK airport or how Gisele Bundchen was found in a shopping mall. However, actually getting yourself signed to an agency and booking modeling gigs can be (and usually is) more similar to getting any Continue Reading
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