RSS
 

Archive for October, 2018

Panasonic announces first 8K camera with its organic image sensor inside

30 Oct

Panasonic has announced its first camera to use the organic film sensor it announced in February. This comes five years after announcing a collaboration with Fujifilm and seven years after the technology was patented. The AK-SHB810 uses the technology to offer 8K resolution at 60p and ‘global’ shutter.

The camera comes in the form of a ‘head unit’ that attaches via fiber-optical cable to an offboard processing unit. It should be available in 2019 with the Japanese press release talking about providing an 8K broadcast system in time for 2020, when Tokyo will host the Olympic Games. Panasonic also mentions feature film production, which explains the use of the industry-standard ‘PL’ mount.

In a conventional CMOS sensor, the silicon acts as the light-sensitive medium, charge storage and readout circuitry: reading out the pixel ends the exposure, so the shutter behavior is determined by the readout rate. In the organic film/CMOS chip, the two processes are independent, so the exposure can be stopped for the whole sensor to give a global shutter, with readout occuring in the background.

As well as avoiding any ‘rolling shutter’ skewing effect, Panasonic highlights that a global shutter means that flashguns fired while recording won’t cause partial bright bands across the image (something that could be distracting in broadcasts of indoor sporting events).

In addition, the sensor design allows the sensitivity of the capture medium to be varied to give a continuously variable virtual ‘ND Filter’ effect. The company also promises wide dynamic range capture, though puts no figures on this.

This figure shows the stepless, electronically-controlled ‘ND filter’ effect of the Panasonic sensor.

All these features stem from a fundamental aspect of the new sensor: the separation of the light gathering function of the sensor from the readout process and its circuitry.

The global shutter can be achieved because the light sensitive layer can be turned on and off (or its sensitivity varied) by varying the charge applied to it. This means that the whole film layer can capture a frame and then be made inactive while the CMOS circuitry underneath reads-out. In turn, this means the capture pattern doesn’t have to be defined by the sensor’s readout rate: progressively working down the frame.

The ability to vary the sensitivity of the organic film layer by adjusting the charge applied to it provides the virtual ‘ND filter’ affect, which can mimic ‘whole stop’ NDs or be continuously variable.

Pricing is not mentioned in the press release.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Panasonic announces first 8K camera with its organic image sensor inside

Posted in Uncategorized

 

How to Create Dark and Dramatic Backgrounds Using High-Speed Sync

30 Oct

The Usefulness of High-Speed Sync

Among other things, high-speed sync lets you underexpose your backgrounds for dramatic images.

High-speed sync (HSS) is easily one of the most useful features in lighting. Not only does it let you overpower the sun for more flattering light in the middle of the day, it also lets you use your largest apertures in broad daylight.

It also lets you use another useful technique – underexposing your backgrounds by several stops. With a powerful enough light you can even underexpose the sun by three or four stops, thus making it a compositional element in your frame. This lets you create dark, dramatic backgrounds for visual impact. It also brings your subject forward in the frame, ensuring they’re the dominant aspect of your image.

Fortunately, using HSS to create dark backgrounds like this is easy. And in this short tutorial, I’ll show you how to do it using both E-TTL and manual exposure modes.

Why Darken Your Backgrounds?

While you won’t want to darken the background in every situation, dark backgrounds in scenes that would normally be very bright look great. It may be a stylised affair, but it’s a cool style.

Darkening the background brings your subject forward in the frame(providing they’re well lit), and emphasizes them as the focal point of the background. And the inherent contrast added by putting extremely dark tones in the frame helps to make things pop.

This shot was taken without a flash and is all natural light. You can see the background shares a similar tonality to the subject, reducing the subject’s impact within the frame.

 

By intentionally underexposing the background with HSS, the subject now dominates the frame.

What Do You Need?

To get started with this technique you’ll need:

  • A flash with HSS capability (and TTL capability if you don’t want to use manual).

Some studios strobes (such as the Pixapro Citi600) now come with HSS functionality built in.

  • A trigger or some other means to fire your flash. (You’ll need a TTL-compatible trigger if you want to use TTL.)

If you want to use manual mode, a PC Sync cable will do the job. But for E-TTL you’ll need a compatible trigger. (The icon circled in red is the HSS icon.)

E-TTL Mode

To use this technique with TTL metering, turn on the flash, trigger, and camera of whatever system you’re using. Set your flash mode to HSS and E-TTL. (If you don’t know how to do this, refer to your manual.) You should also zero out the flash exposure compensation settings on your flash.

Switch your camera to ‘Aperture Priority‘ mode and choose the desired aperture. I’m fond of f/4 and f/5.6 for this technique, but it’s not a rule.

Now dial between -1 and -3 stops of exposure compensation into your camera. What this does is underexpose all the ambient light in your scene. It’s how you achieve the dark backgrounds – everything that isn’t properly exposed by your flash will be darkened.

Backgrounds that are already in shadow (such as the one in this photo) may only need one stop of underexposure.

For dark backgrounds already in shadow, -1 stop of exposure compensation will be enough. For bright backgrounds or backgrounds in direct sunlight, you’ll need to underexpose more. To overpower the sun, you’ll need to underexpose by at least three stops.

Backgrounds lit by direct sunlight (such as the one in this image) may need up to four stops of underexposure.

Take a test shot, evaluate the image and the histogram on your camera, and adjust the flash exposure compensation as needed.

That’s all there is to it.

Manual Mode

HSS is great for overpowering the sun. Here, three stops of underexposure controlled the appearance of the sun in the frame. Notice how dark the rest of frame (lit in broad daylight) appears.

The steps for manual mode are almost identical to using E-TTL mode.

  1. Set up the flash, trigger, and camera of your system.
  2. Set the camera to aperture priority mode.
  3. Set the camera to your desired aperture.
  4. Dial in -1 to -3 stops of exposure compensation.
  5. Take a test shot.
  6. Adjust your flash power as needed.

However, in manual mode, the meter in your camera doesn’t relay any exposure information to your flash as it does in E-TTL mode. That means you’ll need to set your flash power yourself by evaluating your test shot and turning the flash power up or down as needed. You may need to alter the flash power a lot more than you would with E-TTL. Just keep taking tests shots and evaluating the exposure until it’s where you want it.

Adjusting the power in manual mode means dialing through all the increments on your flash. This isn’t a problem, but it’s harder than E-TTL.

As an aside, light meters are now available that can measure HSS such as the Sekonic L-858D. However, they’re very expensive. A Slovenian company called Lumu also makes a light meter that plugs into an iPhone to measures HSS. I saw these being demoed at a trade show and was very impressed with the results. They’re less expensive, but they currently work only with iPhones.

That’s It

Provided you have the necessary equipment, the technique is quite easy. And it can give you a variety of results, so make sure you experiment with different amounts of exposure compensation.

Though limited by your access to the equipment, this HSS technique is easy to employ and can result in bold, dramatic imagery.

Other Considerations

Here are a few things to keep in mind while using this technique:

ISO. Generally speaking, you should keep your ISO as low as possible. Of course, if you have a particularly low-powered flash you may need to bring it up.

Flash Meters. Most flash meters can’t meter for HSS exposures. There are specialist meters that can, but be prepared to pay through the nose for them.

Daylight Conditions. This technique works in all sorts of lighting conditions, from direct midday sun to diffused light on a cloudy day. You’ll need a powerful light to overpower the sun on a bright day, but if you do the technique works really well.

This HSS technique works well in all lighting conditions. The image on the left was created in overcast conditions, while the image on the right was taken in direct sunlight.

Flashguns / Speedlights. Many flashguns have HSS functionality built in and are capable of great results. If you have a flashgun, consider using them for this technique.

Give it a try

Now that you’ve seen what can be accomplished with this relatively easy technique, I encourage you to get out and try it for yourself. And let us know how you went in the comments.

The post How to Create Dark and Dramatic Backgrounds Using High-Speed Sync appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Create Dark and Dramatic Backgrounds Using High-Speed Sync

Posted in Photography

 

iPhone XR Portrait mode for pets, inanimate objects enabled by Halide developers

30 Oct

The developers behind camera app Halide may have discovered a way to enable Portrait mode for pets and objects on the iPhone XR. The revelation was made by one of the developers on Reddit over the weekend, where it was explained that the team found depth data from the iPhone XR’s camera and used it to successfully use Portrait mode on pets and inanimate objects.

Unlike the other new dual-camera iPhone models, the iPhone XR’s single rear camera only supports taking Portrait images of humans, a limitation that may be addressed by third-party apps like Halide. According to the Reddit post, using the mode for non-humans on the iPhone XR is a bit finicky at times and only works if there’s “enough variance in relative distance of objects,” the developer explained.

“Note that the depth map is way lower resolution than the dual camera setup, but it seems usable,” the post states. Halide developer Ben Sandofsky shared the above Twitter post showing the resolution difference between iPhone XS and iPhone XR depth data on Twitter. The feature needs “some more tooling,” the Reddit post states, but it’s likely Halide will offer the ability to iPhone XR users in a future update.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on iPhone XR Portrait mode for pets, inanimate objects enabled by Halide developers

Posted in Uncategorized

 

OnePlus 6T comes with new Nightscape and Studio Lighting modes

29 Oct

OnePlus announced the OnePlus 6T, its latest high-end Android device, at an event in New York City today. On paper the 6T camera hardware looks identical to the OnePlus 6 which was launched earlier this year. However, the new model comes with a few improvements in the imaging software.

The 6T’s dual-camera has a 16Mp primary camera that uses a 1/2.55? sensor and F1.7 aperture. It also features optical image stabilization. The 20Mp secondary cam offers the same 25mm equivalent focal length as the primary but features a smaller 1/2.8? sensor and a non-stabilized F1.7 lens. The camera focuses using a PDAF system.

Like on the OnePlus 6, the device uses the secondary high-resolution sensor for optimizing noise and dynamic range, high-quality digital zoom and a simulated bokeh effect.

In terms of software features a new Nightscape mode promises night shots with better detail, reduced noise levels, better color rendering and a wider dynamic range than the default shooting mode.

The Studio Lighting feature looks very similar to Apple’s Portrait Lighting and modifies brightness and tonality on faces to simulate similar effects you could achieve with professional lighting equipment. In addition OnePlus says bokeh and HDR modes have been improved over the versions found in the 6.

In video mode the OnePlus 6T is capable of recording 4K footage at 60 frames per second. In Super Slow Motion mode you can shoot 1080p video at 240fps or 720p/480fps.

Non-camera specs are worthy of a high-end smartphone as well. The Android OS is powered by a Qualcomm Snapdragon 845 chipset and up to 8GB of RAM. According to OnePlus the 3,700mAh battery delivers a 20 percent better battery life than the OnePlus 6 and a new on-screen fingerprint reader is on board as well. The 6.41-inch AMOLED display comes with a 19.5:9 aspect ratio and 2340 x 1080 resolution.

The OnePlus 6T will be available from November 1, starting at $ 549.

Key Specifications:

  • Dual-camera
  • Main camera with 16Mp Sony IMX 519 1/2.55? sensor with 1.22 ?m pixels, F1.7 aperture, OIS
  • Secondary camera with 20Mp Sony IMX 376K 1/2.8? sensor with 1.0 ?m pixels, F2.0 aperture
  • 25mm equivalent focal length
  • PDAF
  • Dual-LED flash
  • 4K video at 30/60fps
  • 16Mp front camera with F2.0 aperture

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on OnePlus 6T comes with new Nightscape and Studio Lighting modes

Posted in Uncategorized

 

How to Find the Best Kinds of People to Photograph While Traveling

29 Oct

Photographers often struggle to make portraits of strangers while they’re traveling. They’ll have wonderful photos of all the picture postcard views and landmarks, but none of their pictures will have faces. We often encounter this with people who join our photography workshops.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Transplanting Rice

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

One of the keys to returning home with a good selection of people pictures is being able to pick the best people to photograph. If you learn to observe people you can often judge who’ll enjoy having their portrait made. These are the best people to photograph.

Not everyone likes having their photo taken. Photographers often fall into this group. If you’re like this then your perception, based on your own feelings and experiences, can be negative. You presume others don’t like being photographed because you don’t enjoy the experience.

How do I know this? Because I used to think the same way.

The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Chinese Woman Photographer © Kevin Landwer-Johan

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Practice on Your Friends

Take your camera to your next social gathering and photograph your friends. You’ll soon learn who enjoys the experience because they’ll probably tell you if they don’t.

If you’re not used to photographing people, making portraits for your friends is a great way to ease into the experience. It’s easier to communicate with someone you already know. And make a point of reading their body language. It’s an important skill to have when you’re visiting a place where you can’t speak the language.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Pansa and Malu

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Look for Clues and Cues

People of a different culture won’t necessarily respond the same way you would. Here in Thailand, people often laugh if they are uncomfortable or embarrassed. Sometimes they’ll even laugh when something terrible happens, which is a lot different to where I grew up.

Other cultures may become a bit hostile at having a snapshot of them taken in the streets.

Look for talkative people who are engaging with others – they’re often happy to be photographed. Quiet and sullen people are less likely to respond positively to your request to photograph them.

When I’m in the street or at a market, I look for a place where I can stand back and observe the people and my surroundings. I look for people who:

  • are having fun and enjoying their day
  • are deeply engaged in a task or a conversation
  • have an interesting face and look a bit bored, and probably wouldn’t mind having a conversation with a photographer.

These are the types of people I find it easiest to make engaging portraits of.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Moken Sea Gypsie

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Photographing Children

I always get permission before taking photos of children. Most parents will love the face you want a picture of – they are likely the delight of their life.

Be ready to be confronted by a forced toothy (or toothless) grin. These generally don’t make great portraits, but it’s worth taking a few photos and then working towards a more natural expression. Show them the photos and thank them. They’ll probably go right back to what they were doing. Stay close by, and move back to photograph them again. Hopefully, this time they’ll ignore your camera, thinking you’ve already taken their picture. (This method works equally well with adults.)

Getting down to the child’s level also helps. Look them in the eye and smile. You can get a better response than if you were towering over them with a huge camera.

Some kids enjoy getting their picture taken more than others. Malu lives in an ethnic minority village we often visit on our photography workshops. From the moment we first encountered her we knew she’d be wonderful to photograph. Not only is she super cute, but she also loves being photographed and interacts with us. We’ve built a relationship with her and others in this village that works to our advantage. When we visit with our workshops, our participants can make more intimate portraits than if they were on their own.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Hmong Hill Tribe Girls

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Take a Workshop or Photo Tour, or Hire a Guide

Local knowledge and relationships can be extremely helpful and valuable. People who’ve developed relationships with locals and have a rapport with them can help you. Make the most of their relationships so you can connect more easily with your subjects.

Guides and teachers can also help you by translating questions you may have. Being able to ask questions and show an interest in the person you’re photographing can lead into a more open portrait.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Chiang Mai Photo Workshop

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Photograph People You Interact With

It’s unlikely that the bellhop at your hotel or the receptionist will refuse a photo. Even the cleaning staff will most likely pose for a portrait. Taxi drivers and boatmen can be great to photograph.

If you’re in one location for a few days, keep buying your coffee of fruit juice from the same vendor. Once they’ve seen you a few times, ask if you can make a picture of them. Anyone you’re giving money to will usually oblige.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Sea Gypsy

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Be Open and Approachable

People often reflect the feeling you express. They read your body language. If you’re smiling, open and confident, they’ll more than likely be the same. But if you’re nervous, fiddling around with your camera and not making eye contact, their response may not be so positive.

Learn to say “Hello” and “May I take your photo?” in the local language. This will bring a smile to most people’s faces as they appreciate the fact you’re making an effort to connect with them.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Malu

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

Fit a Wide Lens to Your Camera

Avoid the temptation to use your longest lens. The photos you take will appear distant and removed. Use either a 50mm or wider lens on a full-frame sensor or a lens around 35mm on a crop sensor. I prefer a 35mm on a full-frame camera for travel portraits. A wider lens means you need to be close, which lets you interact more easily.

If your subject seems a little uneasy, start with a few photos from further back. Show them the picture on your camera monitor. They’ll usually smile. If you’re quick, you can squeeze a few more frames of them. But if you have a longer lens you’ll need to be further back.

© Kevin Landwer-Johan The Best Kind of People to Photograph While Traveling Malu 01

© Kevin Landwer-Johan

That’s how I managed to make this portrait of Malu just after her neck ring was removed. She was quiet and a bit self-conscious that morning, so I crouched next to her and asked if I could take her photo. She nodded, and I took a few frames using my 35mm f1.4 lens. I showed her the photos, and suddenly realized she hadn’t seen herself without her traditional neck ring.

She reached behind her neck and pulled her hair back so I could make another photo and see her neck more clearly. If I’d had an 85mm or other longer portrait lens I would have missed this photo because I would have been too close.

A wider lens also means a more intimate portrait. You need to instill confidence in the person you want to photograph. Observe carefully, and ask people who look as if they’ll enjoy the experience.

By following these tips, I’m sure you’ll find great people to photograph, and create some wonderful travel portraits.

Have you taken some great travel portraits, or have some other photography tips? We’d love you to share them in the comments below.

The post How to Find the Best Kinds of People to Photograph While Traveling appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on How to Find the Best Kinds of People to Photograph While Traveling

Posted in Photography

 

Nikon Coolpix P1000 Review

29 Oct

Four years ago, the typical superzoom ‘bridge’ camera had a zoom power of around 50x. Over the years that number has slowly risen, before leveling out at 65x. And then came the Nikon Coolpix P900, whose 83x, 24-2000mm equiv. lens suddenly took zoom ranges from ‘really long’ to ‘absurd’.

Nikon’s new Coolpix P1000 has moved the zoom needle to ‘ludicrous,’ with an equivalent focal length of 24-3000mm. That’s right, 3000mm. This is a lens so long that we were able to fill the frame with a 1 meter (3.3 foot) tall monkey that’s 70 meters (230 feet) away.

This does come at a cost, though. For one thing, the P1000 is huge and its lens is challenged by a slow maximum aperture (and thus diffraction) and image quality can be compromised by the same thermal and atmospheric issues that are typical of images taken at extreme distances with any super telephoto lens.

Besides the lens, the P1000 features a 16MP 1/2.3″ BSI-CMOS sensor, a fully articulating LCD and high-res EVF, Raw support and the ability to capture 4K video.

Key features

  • 16MP, 1/2.3″ BSI-CMOS sensor
  • 24-3000mm equiv. F2.8-8 lens
  • ‘Dual Detect’ optical image stabilization
  • 3.2″, 921k-dot fully articulating LCD
  • 2.36M-dot OLED electronic viewfinder with eye sensor
  • Raw support
  • UHD 4K/30p video capture
  • Microphone input
  • Hot shoe
  • Wi-Fi + Bluetooth (SnapBridge)
  • 250 shots per charge (CIPA standard)
ISO 100 | 1/250 sec | F3.2 | 47mm equiv. Photo by Jeff Keller

The P1000 has a spec sheet almost as long as its lens. From Raw support to a high-res EVF, the camera has just about everything you’d want in a bridge camera, save for decent battery life and a touchscreen (a glaring omission). Image stabilization is a requirement on superzoom cameras, and Nikon’s ‘Dual Detect VR’ reduces shake by up to 5 stops (depending on focal length,) according to Nikon. Being 2018, it’s no surprise that Wi-FI and Bluetooth are also onboard.


What’s new and how it compares

The Coolpix P1000 really is all about that lens.

Read more

Body and controls

The P1000 has sensible controls, though it’s big and heavy and its build quality doesn’t feel like a $ 1000 camera.

Read more

What it’s like to use

The P1000 is ideal for still wildlife and lunar photography, but what else?

Read more

Shooting experience

Shooting with the Coolpix P1000 at the Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle.

Read more

Image quality

The P1000 makes the most out of its small sensor, though don’t expect miracles.

Read more

Conclusion

If you want a camera with a lens that can shoot for the moon, then there’s nothing else like the P1000.

Read more

Sample gallery

View a variety of sample images from the Coolpix P1000.

Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Nikon Coolpix P1000 Review

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Lexar confirms XQD development being “held up by multiple parties,” focusing on CFexpress

29 Oct

Last week, Nikon Rumors reported Lexar will no longer make any XQD cards, citing a press release from Polish Lexar distributor My Adventure. DPReview has since independently confirmed this report with Lexar.

“While Lexar is eager to pursue the XQD technology, the product availability of XQD has been held up by multiple parties including Sony (who owns the IP) which has prevented us from moving forward,” said a Lexar spokesperson to DPReview. “In addition, we are diligently working on the future standard of CFexpress through our efforts in the Compact Flash Association and partnerships with key camera manufacturers.”

The move echoes ProGrade Digital, a memory card brand founded by former executives of Lexar, who recently said it too will skip developing XQD cards in favor of CFexpress.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Lexar confirms XQD development being “held up by multiple parties,” focusing on CFexpress

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background

29 Oct

Much thought goes into photographing an interesting, compelling main subject. In concentrating too much on the main subject though, it’s possible to neglect an equally important part of the photo – the photography background. The background needs to be controlled to achieve a great photo, and in this article, you’ll learn the various ways to do this. So let’s look at the various strategies you can employ.

1. Look to the light in the photography background

The creative use of light is what makes a good photo. That means you need to be in control of this key element. Control this, and your photo should be better for it. In the majority of cases that light is daylight though, of course, there are artificial light sources as well. Those looking to know where the sun is can use a great website called Suncalc, which is also available as an app. So how does this relate to your background? Well knowing where the sun is rising and setting means you can plan for sunset and sunrise skies in your background. Equally, you’ll know when the sun is in the optimum position to light up your main subject properly. Having a poorly lit subject often impacts the background, which is overexposed to compensate for an under-lit main subject.

 

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background 1

One option for the background is to underexpose it. This woman is lit by a strobe to the left of the camera.

Low key photography background

A great choice to control your background, especially for street photography, is to underexpose it relative to your main subject. To achieve this, you’ll need to find somewhere that lets a beam of strong sunlight in, like a gap in the roofing at a market. Now the aim is to photograph your subject in that sunlight, and in so doing underexpose the background by -2 to -3 EV.

2. Things can change with the seasons

The position of elements in the sky, such as the sun, the moon and the milky way, all change with the seasons. Knowing when to visit a location so that the background lines up with your photo requirements is another crucial step to make. Once again, Suncalc can help you here, or for astrophotography, Photopils is a great resource. Good landscape photography takes planning. Some photos are only possible for a few days per year, and you’ll need luck with the weather on those days.

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background 2

The Milkyway appearing behind Durdle Door during Spring.

3. Change the angle

Photography is the art of subtraction, and a busy background is an easy way of adding more elements to your frame than you need. A simple change in the angle can avoid such elements as wires or unwanted people in the background of your image. Keep your photo as simple as possible, with your background often needing to be a minimal element of the frame.

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background 3

This photo is effective because the background and angle chosen help to frame the model.

4. Use leading lines

Closely related to changing the angle of your photo is using leading lines to your subject from your background. Those lines are a great way to bring the viewers eye to your main subject, thus, making that background an essential element of your photo. A photographers favorite is the use of tunnels, where lines lead from an infinity point to your main subject. Using this gives you more control over your frame and results in a photo with real impact. A shallow depth of field isn’t always necessary when using leading lines, as the lines hold the background together.

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background 4

Leading lines and tunnels are a favorite of photographers.

5. Line up foreground and background elements

It’s not just about lining up leading lines and avoiding distracting elements in your background. Particular elements in your background can be lined up to compliment whatever you have in the foreground. An example of this is when your background is blurred out with bokeh. In that background, there can be lighter and darker portions. You can also position your main subject in front of a patch of brighter background to highlight this area, and provide a natural frame.

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background 5

The center of the Japanese flag in the background makes and excellent frame.

6. Aperture controls the background

One of the most effective controls you have over the photography background is aperture. What this does is controls the depth of field, allowing you to blur out the background if you wish. Bokeh is the term given to the out of focus portion of an image, often in the background. You can produce bokeh by opening up your aperture, usually on a prime lens. It’s also possible to produce bokeh with a long focal length, as long as the background is some distance from the object you’re focusing on. So controlling the aperture is one of the easiest and most effective ways of controlling your background.

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background 6

Background bokeh can be an attractive element of a frame.

7. Textured backgrounds

Another option available to photographers is to use a textured background. Find a background, like a wall, that has a pattern or texture to it. Photography backgrounds that work well include: brick walls, old decaying facades that have one color, or metal shutters that shops use when they’re closed. Chances are, you’ll be photographing a model in this situation, and a clean background works well for this style of photo.

Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background 7

A natural photography background can also work well. In this example, the grass in the background is blurred out.

What do you look for in a background?

There are many ways to create an excellent background in your image. Which of the suggestions in this article do you like to use? Is there a different way of controlling the background that you like to use? This article aims to make you think a little more about the background of your photo, the next time you go out with your camera. So please share your thoughts, and comments with us. Let’s see some of your fantastic photography backgrounds in the comments section!

 

The post Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Seven Great Ways to Control the Photography Background

Posted in Photography

 

Our favorite images from 2018’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

28 Oct

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Now in its 54th year, the Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition continues to celebrate photography of the natural world. This year’s winners were selected from over 45,000 entries, with Dutch photographer Marsel van Oosten’s portrait of two Qinling golden snub-nosed monkeys taking the top prize. See our favorites from the winning images here, and head to the Natural History Museum’s website to enter the 2019 competition – open to submissions through December 13th, 2018.

The golden couple by Marsel van Oosten, The Netherlands
Grand Title Winner 2018, Animal Portraits

A male Qinling golden snub-nosed monkey rests briefly on a stone seat. He has been joined by a female from his small group. Both are watching intently as an altercation takes place down the valley between the lead males of two other groups in the 50-strong troop. It’s spring in the temperate forest of China’s Qinling Mountains, the only place where these endangered monkeys live.

They spend most of the day foraging in the trees, eating a mix of leaves, buds, seeds, bark and lichen, depending on the season. Though they are accustomed to researchers observing them, they are also constantly on the move, and as Marsel couldn’t swing through the trees, the steep slopes and mountain gorges proved challenging. Whenever he did catch up and if the monkeys were on the ground, the light was seldom right. Also, the only way to show both a male’s beautiful pelage and his striking blue face was to shoot at an angle from the back. That became Marsel’s goal.

It took many days to understand the group’s dynamics and predict what might happen next, but finally his perseverance paid off with this gift of a perfect situation, with a perfect forest backdrop and perfect light filtering through the canopy. A low flash brought out the glow of the male’s golden locks to complete the perfect portrait.

Nikon D810 + Tamron 24–70mm f2.8 lens at 24mm; 1/320 sec at f8; ISO 1600; Nikon SB-910 flash.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Lounging leopard by Skye Meaker, South Africa
Grand Title Winner 2018, 15-17 Years Old

Mathoja was dozing when they finally found her, lying along a low branch of a nyala tree. And she continued to doze all the time they were there, unfazed by the vehicle. ‘She would sleep for a couple of minutes. Then look around briefly. Then fall back to sleep,’ says Skye.

Mathoja’s home is Botswana’s Mashatu Game Reserve, which Skye and his family regularly visit, always hoping to see leopards, though they are notoriously elusive. In Bantu language, Mathoja means ‘the one that walks with a limp’. Skye calls her Limpy. She limps because of an injury as a cub, but otherwise she is now a healthy eight-year-old, and she remains the calmest of leopards around vehicles.

Though she dozed just metres away from Skye, she blended into the background, the morning light was poor, leaves kept blowing across her face, and her eyes were only ever open briefly, making it hard for Skye to compose the shot he was after. Finally, just as she opened her eyes for a second, the overhead branches moved enough to let in a shaft of light that gave a glint to her eyes, helping him to create his memorable portrait.

Canon EOS-1D X + 500mm f4 lens; 1/80 sec at f4; ISO 1250.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Pipe owls by Arshdeep Singh, India
Winner 2018, 10 Years and Under

Huddled together at the opening of an old waste-pipe, two spotted owlets look straight into Arshdeep’s lens. He and his father had been driving out of Kapurthala, a city in the Indian state of Punjab, going on a birding trip, when he saw one of them dive into the pipe. His father didn’t believe what he’d seen but stopped the car and backed up.

It wasn’t long before one of the owlets popped its head out. Guessing this might be a nest site and keen to photograph such an unusual setting, Arshdeep begged to borrow his father’s camera and telephoto lens. Using skills accrued from photographing birds since he was six years old, Arshdeep rested the lens on the car’s open window and waited. He wasn’t at eye level, though. Realizing that if the window was half open, he could place the lens at the right height, he knelt on the seat and waited.

It wasn’t long before the curious owlet – less than 20 centimetres (8 inches) high – put its head out again, closely followed by the larger female. Framing the pair off-centre, and using a shallow depth of field to isolate them from the building behind, he created a characterful portrait of a species that has adapted to urban life.

Nikon D500 + 500mm f4 lens; 1/1600 sec at f4 (-0.7 e/v); ISO 450.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Duck of dreams by Carlos Perez Naval, Spain
Winner 2018, 11-14 Years Old

The long-tailed ducks were the most beautiful Carlos had ever seen. In fact, it had been the sea ducks that he most wanted to see when the family planned their holiday to Norway. They were staying on the Varanger Peninsula, on the northern coast of the Barents Sea. But to get close enough to photograph the ducks meant booking a floating hide in the harbour and an early-morning boat, so he and his mother and father would be in the hide before sunrise, before the ducks flew in to feed.

It was March, and still bitterly cold, and lying on his belly on the floor of the hide, he felt he might gradually freeze. But the discomfort was worth it. As the light broke, the ducks flew in – eider ducks and long-tailed ducks in their breeding plumage. The only sound was the water lapping against the hide as the ducks dived for fish.

He focused on one male that was resting after feeding. An overcast sky muted the dawn light and allowed Carlos to capture the subtle colours of the duck’s plumage, and reflected lights from the village added a golden sparkle to the ripples, caught in a perfect frame.

Nikon D7100 + 200–400mm f4 lens at 400mm; 1/320 sec at f4; ISO 1000.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Bed of seals by Cristobal Serrano, Spain
Winner 2018, Animals in their environment

A small ice floe in the Errera Channel at the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula provides barely enough room for a group of crabeater seals to rest, and the cracks are starting to show. It’s the end of summer in the Antarctic, and so sea ice here is in short supply. Crabeater seals are widespread in Antarctica and possibly the most abundant of all seals anywhere. But they are also dependent on sea ice, for resting, breeding, avoiding predators such as killer whales and leopard seals, and accessing feeding areas.

Despite their name, crabeaters are adapted to feed almost exclusively on Antarctic krill, using their interlocking, finely lobed teeth to sieve krill from the water. The krill itself is also dependent on sea ice, which provides winter shelter and food (algae). So any decline in sea ice will have a knock-on effect on such specialist krill predators, as will overfishing of krill.

For the moment, there is no evidence of any decline in crabeaters, though in the vastness of their pack-ice habitat, it is very difficult to estimate their numbers. Positioned in a rubber dinghy in the channel beside the floe, Cristobal waited until the sea was relatively calm before launching his drone.

The batteries would not last long in the cold, so he flew the drone ‘high and smoothly … using low-noise propellers to avoid disturbing the seals’. The picture portrays the group, dozing, with a spattering of krill-coloured seal excrement symbolizing their dependence on Antarctica’s keystone species.

DJI Phantom 4 Pro Plus + 8.8–24mm f2.8–11 lens; 1/200 sec at f5.6; ISO 100.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Blood thirsty by Thomas P Peschak, Germany/South Africa
Winner 2018, Behaviour: Birds

When rations run short on Wolf Island, in the remote northern Galápagos, the sharp-beaked ground finches become vampires. Their sitting targets are Nazca boobies and other large birds on the plateau. Boobies thrive here, nesting among dense cactus thickets and fishing in the surrounding ocean, but the finches have a tougher time. The island has no permanent water and little rainfall.

The finches – among the species that inspired Darwin’s theory of evolution – rely on a scant diet of seeds and insects, which regularly dries up. Pecking away at the base of booby flight feathers with their sharp beaks – a trait that may have evolved from feeding on the birds’ parasites – they drink blood to survive.

‘I’ve seen more than half a dozen finches drinking from a single Nazca booby,’ says Tom. Rather than leave and expose their eggs and chicks to the sun, the boobies appear to tolerate the vampires, and the blood loss doesn’t seem to cause permanent harm.

Working on a climate-change story (the Galapagos may offer an early warning of the effects on biodiversity of global changes), Tom had secured a rare permit to land on the island. He made it up the steep cliffs, scrambling over loose rocks to reach the plateau. For maximum impact, he shot the bloody scene at bird’s eye level to capture the one female feeding and another waiting just behind.

Nikon D5 + 16–35mm f4 lens; 1/200 sec at f20; ISO 160; Profoto B1X 500 AirTTL flash.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Kuhirwa mourns her baby by Ricardo Núñez Montero, Spain
Winner 2018, Behaviour: Mammals

Kuhirwa, a young female member of the Nkuringo mountain gorilla family in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, would not give up on her dead baby. What Ricardo first thought to be a bundle of roots turned out to be the tiny corpse. Forced by the low light to work with a wide aperture and a very narrow depth of field, he chose to focus on the body rather than Kuhirwa’s face.

Guides told him that she had given birth during bad weather and that the baby probably died of cold. At first Kuhirwa had cuddled and groomed the body, moving its legs and arms up and down and carrying it piggyback like the other mothers. Weeks later, she started to eat what was left of the corpse, behaviour that the guide had only ever seen once before.

Kuhirwa’s initial reactions to her bereavement echo responses to death seen in other species. From elephants stroking the bones of dead family members to dolphins who try to keep dead companions afloat, there is an abundance of credible evidence that many animals – ranging from primates and cetaceans to cats, dogs, rabbits, horses and some birds – behave in ways that visibly express grief, though individual reactions vary. Kuhirwa’s behaviour can be understood as mourning, without the need to speculate about her thoughts.

Nikon D610 + 70–300mm f4.5–5.6 lens at 185mm; 1/750 sec at f5; ISO 2200.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Desert relic by Jen Guyton by Germany/USA
Winner 2018, Plants and Fungi

The cones of a female welwitschia reach for the skies over the Namib Desert, proffering sweet nectar to insect pollinators. These desert survivors have an extraordinary biology. There are male and female plants, both producing distinctive cones. Each plant comprises just two leaves, a stem base and a tap root. The woody stem stops growing at the apex but widens with age, forming a concave disc, but the two original seedling leaves continue to grow, gradually splitting and fraying.

With a slow growth rate and the largest specimens spanning more than 8 metres (26 feet), some may be 1,000 years old or more (twice that has been claimed). Endemic to Namibia and Angola, welwitschia endures harsh, arid conditions, usually within 150 kilometres (90 miles) of the coast, where its leaves capture moisture from sea fog.

Jen’s challenge was to find a striking way to photograph what can be seen as just a pile of old leaves. After trekking all day over hot sand, scouting widely scattered plants, Jen found one about 1.5 metres (5 feet) across, and with ‘the right shape and lively colours’. It had ripening cones, some with their papery wings ready to detach and carry the seeds away on the wind.

Adopting a low, wide angle to catch the vibrant tones and to display the plant’s architecture against the expansive landscape, she started shooting just as the sun was going down and while a scattering of clouds rolled in and diffused the light.

Canon EOS 7D + Sigma 10–20mm f4–5.6 lens at 10mm; 1/100 sec at f22; ISO 400; Venus Laowa flash; Manfrotto tripod.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Night flight by Michael Patrick O’Neill, USA
Winner 2018, Under Water

On a night dive over deep water – in the Atlantic, far off Florida’s Palm Beach – Michael achieved a long-held goal, to photograph a flying fish so as to convey the speed, motion and beauty of this ‘fantastic creature’.

By day, these fish are almost impossible to approach. Living at the surface, they are potential prey for a great many animals, including tuna, marlin and mackerel. But they have the ability to sprint away from danger, rapidly beating their unevenly forked tails (the lower lobe is longer than the upper one) to build enough speed to soar up and out of the water. Spreading their long, pointed pectoral fins like wings, flying fish can glide for several hundred metres (more than 650 feet).

At night, they are more approachable, moving slowly as they feed on planktonic animals close to the surface. In a calm ocean, Michael was able to get closer and closer to this individual, which became relaxed in his presence. In the pitch black, he tried various camera and light settings, all the while keeping track of both his subject – a mere 13 centimetres (5 inches) long – and his dive boat. The result is his ‘innerspace’ vision of a flying fish.

Nikon D4 + 60mm f2.8 lens; 1/8 sec at f16; ISO 500; Aquatica housing; two Inon Z-220 strobes.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Windsweep by Orlando Fernandez Miranda, Spain
Winner 2018, Earth’s Environments

Standing at the top of a high dune on Namibia’s desert coastline, where mounds of wind-sculpted sand merge with crashing Atlantic waves, Orlando faced a trio of weather elements: a fierce northeasterly wind, warm rays of afternoon sunshine and a dense ocean fog obscuring his view along the remote and desolate Skeleton Coast.

Such eclectic weather is not unusual in this coastal wilderness. It is the result of cool winds from the Benguela Current, which flows northwards from the Cape of Good Hope, mixing with the heat rising from the arid Namib Desert to give rise to thick fog that regularly envelopes the coast. As it spills inland, the moisture from this fog is the life-blood for plants and insects in the dry dunes.

Orlando framed his shot using as a focal point the sharp ridge of sand snaking out in front, ensuring that the sweep of wind-patterned dunes to his right remained in focus, and kept the distant fog?shrouded coast as a mysterious horizon.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III + 70–200mm f2.8 lens at 110mm; 1/500 sec at f11; ISO 100.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

The vision by Jan van der Greef, The Netherlands
Winner 2018, Black and White

Perfectly balanced, its wings vibrating, its tail opening and closing, with its tiny feet touching the spike for just an instant, an eastern mountaineer hummingbird siphons nectar from the florets of a red-hot-poker plant.

Positioned by the flower, Jan had anticipated the bird’s behaviour. For a number of days he had been stationed in the garden of his hotel in southern Peru, observing hummingbirds. He noticed that an eastern mountaineer – a species found only in Peru, characterized by its long, black-and-white forked tail – would rotate around the red-hot-poker spikes as it fed.

He also saw that, when the bird moved behind a spike and its tail closed for a moment, a beautiful cross appeared. Determining to capture this strange vision, he staked out a spot underneath a single red-hot-poker plant (native to Africa, where it is pollinated by nectar?drinkers such as sunbirds). It proved to be the hummingbird’s preferred garden source of energy-rich nectar.

The low position of his wheelchair allowed him to set the spike against the sky, framing it with a dark surround of bushes. It took two half days to get the perfect shot, setting his camera to capture 14 frames a second, as the cross appeared for just a fraction of a second before its creator, with a burst of power, went on to the next flower on its route.

Canon EOS-1D X Mark II + 500mm f4 lens; 1.4x III extender; 1/5000 sec at f5.6; ISO 4000; Gitzo tripod + Jobu gimbal head.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

The ice pool by Cristobal Serrano, Spain
Winner 2018, Creative Visions

On a cloudy day – perfect for revealing textures of ice – Cristobal scoured the Errera Channel on the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. The constant current through this relatively calm stretch of water carries icebergs of all shapes and sizes. These mighty chunks of frozen fresh water have broken off (calved) from glaciers, ice shelves or larger icebergs. Their beauty – towering above the water and looming even larger beneath – is familiar, but their impact from above, less so.

Selecting one that looked promising – about 40 metres (130 feet) long and rising up to 14 metres (46 feet) tall) – Cristobal launched his low-noise drone and flew it high over the top, so as not to disturb any wildlife that might be using it for resting. The drone’s fresh perspective revealed an ice carving, whittled by biting winds and polar seas. Warmer air had melted part of the surface to create a clear, heart-shaped pool, within the sweeping curves of ice. The sculpture was set off by the streamlined forms of a few crabeater seals, in dark shades following their summer moult, and simply framed by the deep water.

DJI Phantom 4 Pro Plus + 8.8–24mm f2.8–11 lens; 1/120 sec at f4.5; ISO 100.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Signature tree by Alejandro Prieto, Mexico.
Winner 2018, Wildlife Photojournalist Award: Story

A male jaguar sharpens his claws and scratches his signature into a tree on the edge of his mountain territory in the Sierra de Vallejo in Mexico’s western state of Nayarit. The boundary-post has been chosen with care – the tree has soft bark, allowing for deep scratch marks that are a clear warning, backed by pungent scent, not to trespass.

Alejandro set up his custom-built camera trap some 6 metres (20 feet) up the tree and returned every month to change the batteries. Eight months elapsed before the jaguar eventually returned to this corner of his realm to refresh his mark.

Jaguars need vast territories to have access to enough prey. But in Mexico, habitat is being lost at a rapid rate as forest is cleared for crops or livestock or for urban development, and much of what remains is fragmented. The loss of even a small area of habitat can cut a jaguar highway between one part of a territory and another and isolate the animal to such an extent that it cannot feed itself or find a mate.

Nikon D3300 + Sigma 10–20mm lens; 1/200 sec at f9; ISO 200; home-made waterproof camera box; two Nikon flashes + plexiglas tubes; Trailmaster infrared remote trigger.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Dream duel by Michel d’Oultremont, Belgium
Winner 2018, Rising Star Portfolio Award

As storm clouds gathered over the Ardennes forest in Belgium, Michel hid behind a tree under a camouflage net. It was the best spot for viewing any action on the ridge – a place he knew well – but he needed luck for all the elements to come together.

The thrilling sound of two red deer stags, roaring in competition over females, echoed through the trees, but infuriatingly the action was taking place further down the slope. Well matched, neither challenger was giving way, and the contest escalated into a noisy clash of antlers.

For years, Michel had wanted to picture this highlight of the rut in the dramatic light of dusk, but the stags were never in quite the right place at the right time. At last, the stags appeared on the ridge, antlers locked, silhouetted. Michel had time to capture the clash – through branches of the tree to create the atmosphere – before the light faded and he had to leave the fighters, still locked in battle.

Canon EOS 5D Mark IV + 400mm f2.8 lens + 2x extender; 1/400 sec at f8; ISO 400; Gitzo tripod + Uniqball head.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
Comments Off on Our favorite images from 2018’s Wildlife Photographer of the Year winners

Posted in Uncategorized

 

Gear Review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens

28 Oct

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 1

 

Sony has very quickly risen to be a photography power horse in the professional world. With their collection of impressive mirrorless cameras and fantastic cinema products, Sony has carved a name for themselves among the photography legends such as Canon, Nikon, and Leica. As such, it is of no wonder that the company has released a version of their own of the famous 85mm f/1.4 lens (Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens) – a fixed millimeter that features a beautifully creamy bokeh.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 2

I am a very versatile photographer. My work spans a variety of niches in the field, from live concerts to portraiture, action photography to animals. I have found a use for the Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM lens in all of these situations, and the wide aperture is a fantastic bonus for the work that I do.

I use this lens in low light situations, aiding in isolating the subject in busy locations, and creating a precise depth-of-field-look for my clients.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 3

Lens build

My frame of reference is the Canon L lenses of which this is meant to be an equivalent. I find the build of those lenses to be very high quality and durable. Upon opening the box to unveil the Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM lens, I was actually rather impressed at the build quality. The camera weighs about 825g – almost 2lbs – a significant weight.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 4

The outer casing of this lens is high-quality polycarbonate, and all markings are engraved and filled with paint. The physical feel of the lens in your hand is solid and sturdy. The rubberized focus ring was quite comfortable to the touch and was very smooth to turn.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 5

The lens features a rubberized focus ring, an aperture ring, an AF/MF switch, and on the left side of the lens, there is a programmable button that you can set to work as most anything. An excellent idea for a lens!

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 6

The hood that comes with the camera is also high quality in build. The hood sports a rubberized front bumper and felt on the inside to counteract stray light. Furthermore, there is also a button which you have to press to remove the hood, which ensures the hood stays in place.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 7

Aperture ring

As an avid Canon DSLR and EF lens user who had recently added a Sony mirrorless to the collection, the aperture ring was something a bit new to me.

Intended to be very beneficial during cinema work, instead of adjusting the aperture on the camera body, you have the option of adjusting its width on the lens. This ring can be adjusted to either be silent or make little clicks to indicate it is turning – very useful for silent shooting.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 8

For those that prefer to adjust the aperture on the camera body itself, you can set the dial ring to ‘A’ for automatic. My one gripe would be the location of the ‘A’ option- it sits on the f/16 side rather than the f/1.4. It seems more logical to me to place this option on the side of the widest aperture. I found myself accidentally shifting the ring over to f/16 during shooting.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 9

Focus

The focus on this lens is very accurate if I do say so myself. Although in these types of camera combinations, much of the autofocus relies on the camera- but the speed is very much the lens. The close focusing distance is approximately 0.8m.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 10

I have read reviews of others who have had focus issues with this model, but I have not. I was able to record an entire sequence of a dog running directly at me from start to finish in perfect tack sharpness. The body I am pairing the lens with is the Sony a7r III, which can make a significant difference.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 11

Keep in mind that shooting at f/1.4 has its challenges- wide apertures tend to be difficult if you aren’t used to them. To quickly refresh you of the basics, when you focus your camera on a subject, it establishes a focal plane. To get your subject in focus, it has to be on the focal plane. Focal planes happen on an x (horizontal) and y (vertical) axis.

Anything along either of those axes will be in focus, and anything not on them will be out of focus. With wide apertures like f/1.4, your focal plane is quite narrow. Quick trick? Step further back to widen the plane!

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 12

Sharpness

Talking about the focus naturally leads to sharpness. This lens is tremendously sharp. I was very impressed with the amount of detail that this lens can capture. There is absolutely no reason to add sharpening in post-processing.

One of the first sessions I did with the Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM lens was action portraits at the beach, and the final result managed to pick up all of the detail including specks of sand flying up.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 13

I was also very impressed with the clarity and colors when using this lens- the glass was superb. Though I still find a significant advantage in Canon L glass (reminding that I am an avid Canon user), in regards to raw-off-of-the-camera quality. This lens is a close second best.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 14

Depth of field

The bokeh produced from this lens is where the difference is quite noticeable to the trained eye. The depth of field (DOF) at f/1.4 looks somewhat different from that of its competitors, such as Canon’s equivalent.

I find the depth of field looks more dreamy and a bit artificial from other similar lenses, but it has an authenticity and liveliness to it. The shallow DOF has quite a bit of a subtle, calmer rotation that creates a very natural look to the images (or in the least, as natural as this shallow of a field can be).

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 15

That said, there is a vignetting that occurs at f/1.4. Some people like this, others don’t. I enjoy the natural vignetting that is contrary to popular opinion, but for those that find it a nuisance, keep in mind that this issue does occur with this lens.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 16

Flare resistance

A big bonus that sets this lens apart from others is its impressive flare resistance. Most of the time you can just shoot directly into the sun and you will neither have problems with a huge loss of contrast nor ghosting. This is brilliant for natural light photographers, especially during the beloved golden hour.

For me, as a concert photographer, I found this to be a significant perk as the stage lights didn’t flare too badly.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 17

Chromatic aberration

Chromatic aberration, also known as ‘color fringing’ or ‘purple fringing,’ is a common optical problem that occurs when a lens is either unable to bring all wavelengths of color to the same focal plane, or when wavelengths of color are focused at different positions in the focal plane.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 18

Unfortunately, where I lose a bit of love for this lens is the chromatic aberration issue it suffers. Though I have read reviews in which others claim that the chromatic aberration is minimal, I have experienced the contrary and consider the chromatic aberration to be rather severe.

I have used several high-quality fast lenses that have little to no aberration, and this is not one of them. I have experienced a slew of colors coming out in quite contrasted images, ranging from the purple fringe to aqua or bright green fringing. Although this can be removed in post-processing (especially in a program such as Lightroom), that is an extra step.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 19

Pros and cons of the Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens

Pros

  • Very fast lens – focusing is a breeze.
  • The build quality is quite solid and durable.
  • Very sharp and clear images.
  • The depth of field is more natural rather than dreamy, which I find to be positive.
  • This is a full-frame lens intended for full-frame cameras – always a massive perk.
  • Excellent flare resistance.

Cons

  • Very noticeable chromatic aberration in high contrast situations.
  • Visible vignetting at wide apertures.
  • The ‘A’ option on the aperture ring is located in an inconvenient spot (in my opinion).
  • The lens has a significant weight.
  • The price is a bit steep at around $ 1700 USD.

Gear review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens 20

Conclusion

For those rocking Sony E-mount cameras, this lens is dreamy. An excellent and high-quality choice as a native Sony mount. I find it to be rather worth it for those sporting this brand’s camera body.

Have you used the  Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM lens? What are your experiences with it? Let us know in the comments below.

 

The post Gear Review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School.


Digital Photography School

 
Comments Off on Gear Review: Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM Lens

Posted in Photography