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Archive for February, 2018

Huawei launches MediaPad M5 Pro tablet with M-Pen

25 Feb

There won’t be a new flagship smartphone from Huawei at the Mobile World Congress in Barcelona this year (the P20, which is rumored to come with a triple-camera, will be launched on the 27th of March). However, the Chinese device maker has just launched a number of new tablets, including the MediaPad M5 Pro which looks like a potentially interesting option for image editing on the go.

The M5 Pro will be available with a 8.4″ or 10.8″ IPS display. Both screens feature a 2560 x 1600 2K resolution and a screen/body ratio of 82%. On top of that the larger version comes with the M-Pen stylus which supports tilting and shading and offers 4096 levels of pressure sensitivity. Huawei says the M-Pen is ideal for note-taking and image editing alike.

If that’s true will largely depend on support for the pen in third-party apps. Huawei has not provided any information on this topic yet. In addition a full-size keyboard that is connected via Pogo Pins in combination with a Desktop View mode allow for a PC-like working experience.

In any case, the MediaPad M5 Pro looks like a capable and attractively designed Android tablet all around. The 8.4″ version comes with two speakers, the larger model offers a quad-speaker setup and a surround-sound option which has been co-developed with Harman-Kardon. Hi-Res audio is supported when listening through headphones.

The Android OS and Huawei’s EMUI 8.0 UI are powered by a Kirin 960 Series processor and a 5,100 mAh battery in the smaller model and 7,500 mAh variant in the 10.8″ version – both supporting quick-charge – should provide plenty of battery life. The MediaPad M5 Pro will be available in Champagne Gold and Space Gray. Pricing ranges from 500 Euros (approximately USD 615) for the Wi-Fi version with 64GB memory to 600 Euros (approximately USD 735) for the 128GB LTE model.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

25 Feb

The correct lens for the correct photo is a debate often heard among many photographers. In this article, you’ll see the various merits of three different street photography lenses. The 50mm lens is often thought of as the perfect lens for street photography, perhaps even the only one.

Using different focal lengths can dramatically change the type of photos you take, though. So let’s take a look at which street photography lens might be right for you!

Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

This photo was taken at 135mm. There is still plenty of context in this scene, even at the longer focal length.

Wide-angle to get in close

This class of lens is usually thought of as a landscape, or architecture photography lens. That may be true, though using it for street photography is equally valid. So why might you use a wide-angle lens in your street photography work?

  • Get close – That famous Robert Capa quote that I’m sure you’ve seen, “If your pictures are not good enough, you’re not close enough.” Well, when you use a wide-angle lens for street photography you’ll have to get close. This will get you closer to the action and will lead to the following.
  • Tell more story – Capturing a wider scene will allow more context to come into your photo. If you can avoid the photograph becoming too cluttered, and you retain a clear focus on the main subject you will likely have a great photo.
  • Interaction – Getting close to your subject means interacting with your subject, most likely a person. They’ll now know you’re taking their photo. How you use this to your advantage depends on you. Building a positive relationship with your subject will enhance your photo, even if that relationship is short.
Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

This photo required a wide-angle lens to capture the whole scene. It was photographed at 17mm, and I was close to the people I captured in the image.

The nifty fifty, the classic street photography lens

The icon of street photography, it really is one of the best lenses out there. There are several different options for this lens along with the more expensive variety having a larger aperture. What makes the 50mm lens such a good choice for street photography then?

  • Normal field of view – This lens gives you a field of view that’s close to what your eyes see, a trait desirable for street photos. So you’re not dealing with a distorted view when using this type of lens. This assumes you’re using a full frame camera, crop sensors will give you a longer focal length of around 75mm on a 50mm lens.
  • The Depth of Field – As a prime lens with a fixed focal length these lenses have a large aperture of at least f/1.8. This allows you to create a shallow depth of field, and to blur out the background. This control can really help you take better street photos when it is applied well.
  • Comfortable distance – With this lens you’ll be close to your subject, but not in their face. A 50mm will also include enough of the surrounding scene to allow context in your photo.
  • Fast lens – This lens can be used in low light conditions. The combination of a wide aperture and mid-range focal length make this a fast lens and a good option to use at night.
Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

There’s no getting away from it, the 50mm lens is GREAT for street photography.

Long focal length for the unobtrusive photographer

At the longer focal lengths, you’ll be positioned farther from your subject, far enough that they may not spot you taking their photo. This type of lens is the choice of the paparazzi, although it’s unlikely you’ll be using a lens with the same kind of focal lengths (really long!).

So what are the advantages of standing a bit further back?

  • Capture the moment – When the person you’re photographing is oblivious to your presence, the chance of the moment being natural is a lot higher.
  • Compress the scene – This allows you to focus much more on the subject, but the risk is that you don’t include the area around them so you lose some of the story. It’s still possible to provide context at longer focal lengths, you will just have to stand even farther back.
  • Avoid confrontation – Not everyone wants their photo taken, and photos taken without permission can cause a confrontation if you’re caught. While it’s better to build a relationship with the person you want to photograph, sometimes what they don’t know won’t hurt them. In this case, using a longer telephoto lens allows you to get the photo, without causing a scene.
Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

This photo was taken using a 135mm lens. You can see the street vendor preparing food, the outside scene isn’t visible though.

Extra tip

When taking street photos with a long focal length you can sometimes take advantage of a shard of light. This will typically happen when there is a gap in the roof, perhaps in a market. Underexpose your photo at -2 or even -3 EV, with just enough exposure to give detail to your subject, but make the rest of the photo black. This will give some minimalism to your photo, which is a nice effect.

Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

This image was photographed at 180mm, on a camera with a crop factor of 1.6x. The shard of light was used to make the background black, as it is underexposed.

What’s your preferred street photography lens?

Many people will stick to the 50mm lens as their street photography lens of choice, but there are alternatives available. To this day, my favorite street photo was taken at full zoom with a 70-300mm lens.

How about you, do you have a favored lens for street photography? How about trying a different lens, and see how that changes the types of photos you get?

Here at dPS, we love to hear your opinions, so let us know what you think. We’d also love to see your examples of street photos, together with the lens you used to take that photo. Please share in the comments section below.

Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

Here is a selection of lenses that could be used for street photography.

Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

This is a scene captured using a wide-angle lens, photographed at 17mm.

Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

The scene was photographed at night. The 50mm lens is fast, and ideal for this type of scene.

Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

This scene also shows the 50mm lens in action.

Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?

Even a fish-eye lens can be used for street photography. Though admittedly this photo is also architectural.

The post Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You? by Simon Bond appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

25 Feb

Do you want to make sure you get the most details out of your shot? How about making sure none of your post-processing is destructive? It sounds like a really smart way to set up your workflow right?

A workflow is a process that goes from initiation to completion. In the case of photography, that implies from the time of shooting to post-processing. So the first thing you need to do is to ALWAYS shoot in RAW mode. This is a format that changes file extension with every manufacturer but they all share one common thing: raw files store all the un-processed and un-compressed data received on the sensor of your camera when you make a picture.

Intro before after - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

Why shoot RAW?

What is the point of that? Well this means that your file can tolerate more post-processing adjustments and that you can alter some of the settings from the image in a non-destructive way.

As I mentioned before, RAW files have different file extensions and therefore need special software to process them. Your camera surely came with a software that handles your files. However, in this article, I am going to show you how to get the most out of them in Photoshop which supports most raw formats either by default or by using a plug-in.

When you open a RAW file in Photoshop you will see that you can adjust the image with the sliders on the tool palette on the right. Start moving those around to recover the most detail you can from both the highlights and the shadows so you can even out the exposure as much as possible. You can also control the tone of the white balance, the saturation and vibrancy of the colors, and so on.

Raw Window - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

Tweak the image using the sliders and local adjustments in ACR

Once you have the overall settings adjusted, you can start working the settings in different areas to fine-tune your image.

Use the Adjustment Brush that you’ll find in the Menu bar on the top; you can change its settings like size and hardness on the right. Whatever adjustments you make to contrast or exposure will be applied only to the part where you paint with the brush. This is very useful when you are processing images with a lot of contrast. You can keep going with the other tools like the gradient for other local adjustments.

Raw Brush - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

Open as a Smart Object

If you are already familiar with processing RAW files, these are likely your normal post-processing steps, after which you would click the Open Image button so that the photo opens in Photoshop with the applied adjustments. However, there is one more step you can add to your process to really make your images pop. You can open your photo as a Smart Object.

Open Object - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

Here’s how to do it. Instead of clicking Open Image, just press the Shift key and that same button will become Open Object, now you can click it. Having done this, the image will open in Photoshop as a Layer. Now right-click the layer thumbnail and choose New Smart Object via Copy and a second layer, containing a second smart object will be created.

IMPORTANT: Don’t just duplicate the layer or you won’t be able to process them independently; every adjustment would be applied to both smart objects!

You can now rename the layers to identify which adjustments you are going to do in each one. For example, I’m doing Highlights and Shadows for my image but maybe for another image, it’s better to call the layers Background and Foreground, it depends on your image and what it needs.

Double processing

Double processing - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

The cool part about Smart Objects is that when you double-click the layer, it will open again in the RAW editor, which means that you are back to all the data to keep processing without loss. You can make the adjustments that you need for a specific part of the image.

Finishing up

Now that you have done the best post-processing for each part is time to integrate it all into one amazing picture! Add a mask to the top layer by clicking the Layer Mask button on the bottom of the Layers Palette. With the layer mask selected you can start hiding the parts you don’t need. Remember that whatever appears in black on the mask means that you will see the layer underneath; whatever is white will show the top layer. I’ll turn off the bottom layer so that you can see what I mean below.

Layer Mask - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

If you find it necessary, you can keep going with your adjustments, as you would normally do in Photoshop. You can add a filter or adjustment layer by clicking on the buttons at the bottom of the Layers Palette. Have a look at these before and after examples!

Before- How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

Before

After - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

After

Before2 - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

Before

After2 - How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop

After

The post How to Create with a Good Workflow Using Smart Objects in Photoshop by Ana Mireles appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Compress Time Into One Photo

25 Feb

Throughout the history of photography, many photographers have blended multiple exposures into one final image. Obviously, they didn’t shoot the exposures at the same time, but at some interval to achieve something.

One really common purpose is to remove people by shooting several photos and making sure that all areas are covered without any people and then blend all the images into one image. Another purpose of shooting multiple images is bracketing for HDR. Yet a different purpose is to compress a long time into one photo.

Italy Manarola Day to Night

In this article, you will learn how to make an image that compresses a long time-span into one image. It is a bit like a time-lapse movie sequence, but instead of making a movie you create one final image.

Like in time-lapse photography you will shoot several photos shot over a period of preferably several hours to see a change in the scenery. To make it more interesting, you shoot the photos during a change of light, like from daylight to nighttime. When you put such photos together, you get something really fascinating.

Required Gear

To be able to make such a photo you must have a camera and a tripod or similar device. While you shoot, you need to avoid touching the camera more than you have to. Therefore a cable release or remote trigger is recommended.

You will be standing still for several hours and the temperature will most likely change quite a bit. Remember to bring clothes for a change of temperature.

Australia Sydney Harbor View Time Compressed

Where to Shoot

In theory, you can shoot these kinds of photos anywhere and of anything. But since you are putting a lot of time into one single image, it is recommended that you have an excellent composition of an interesting scene.

When to shoot

You should shoot when the light changes the most, which is from daytime to nighttime or the other way around. It is this change that will make it into a remarkable photo. If you just shoot for four hours around midday, you will get a midday photo.

How to Shoot

When you shoot photos that you intend to blend into one final image, it is essential that you make sure to have an almost identical composition in each frame. You can do that by stabilizing your camera, typically on a tripod. Minor pixel shift differences can be handled later in the post-processing phase, but big differences in the composition will be really hard, if not impossible to blend.

You can either use a remote control to trigger the camera for each shot or put the camera into a time-lapse mode. The advantage of triggering the shutter release remotely yourself is that you can time your shots if something interesting happens.

As the light changes, you will need to change the camera settings.

During the daytime put your camera in Aperture Priority mode at ISO 100 and set the aperture around f/8. This mode makes sure that the images have the same depth of field and therefore are identical, except for the change of light. Do a couple of trial shots to make sure you don’t blow out the highlights or the shadows. If the image is too bright or dark, use the exposure compensation to adjust.

As it gets darker, the camera will make longer exposures and when you hit the 30-second mark, you will need to increase the ISO. You will typically end up at ISO 800 or 1600.

Sweden A Mountain Sunset in Sweden

You most likely want to switch off autofocus before it gets dark. It depends on the scenery. City photos often offer good low light autofocus points, while the contrast disappears in landscape photos and makes autofocus impossible. Alternatively, you can use Back Button Focus.

How many photos do you need?

You need at least two different photos, but any number larger than one will work. For my photo of Sydney, I used a couple of night shots. For the morning part, I only used two.

If you shoot the “many people” variation, you will need photos with interesting people in all those areas you want to be populated with people. For the photo of Manarola, Italy I used approximately 60 photos from a batch of around 200.

Switzerland Montreux Compressed Time

How to handle high dynamic range?

Some situations are hard or impossible to capture in one exposure because the dynamic range gets too high. Typically this happens in nighttime city photos or if the sun enters the frame. The difference between the strong light source and the shadows is too great to capture in one single exposure.

In these situations, you must either switch to Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) or do some manual exposure compensation.

How to blend the photos

You can use any layer-based photo editing tool to blend the photos together. I will demonstrate using Photoshop, but Photo Affinity, GIMP or any other similar photo editing tools can do the same.

UK Lake District Time Compressed

The overall process is to pick one of the good photos from the shoot as the base photo. Then you handpick a set of other photos that you want to blend into the base image.

The technique you are going to use to blend is called “Layer Masking”.

Step 1

Put all the photos you have picked into an empty folder on your computer. JPEGs are fine, but you can also use RAW files.

Step 1 image folder with images - How to Compress Time Into One Photo

Step 2

Pick your base photo and open that in Photoshop.

Step 3

Pick another photo with different light. Load that in into Photoshop by dragging the file onto the base image. Position the photo and press enter.

Notice that you now only see the top layer.

Step 3 image drag layer into place - How to Compress Time Into One Photo

Step 4

Add a mask to the top image, by selecting the top layer and clicking Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All. You have now added a Black Mask. Notice that you can now see the lower image layer again.

Step 4 image The black layer mask - How to Compress Time Into One Photo

Step 5

Select the layer mask by clicking on the black mask and then select the brush tool. Select white as your brush color and set the opacity to around 50% and hardness to 0%. You want to work with a BIG soft brush for most stuff. When you need to do more detailed work, increase hardness to around 50%.

Step 5 image Select a brush - How to Compress Time Into One Photo

Step 6

Start painting in some areas and see how the image changes. Each time you click the mouse and paint in an area, the more the top image becomes visible. Play around until you see something you find interesting.

Step 7

Add more photos by dragging them into Photoshop one at a time and make sure the new layer is the top one. You can drag it to the top of the stack if it is not. Then repeat steps 4-6 again.

The final image

In the end, you will end up with several layers containing photos from which you have used bits and pieces, to create your own unique and quite fascinating image. In the image of the idyllic alp town of Hallstatt in Austria, I used 18 photos to create my image.

Tutorial image 3 An example of layers

Austria Hallstatt Day To Night

Additional things to consider

8-bit or 16-bit?

Normally you should never use 8-bit mode for image editing, but if you are blending 20+ photos, you will run into serious performance issues at 16-bit, even with a high-performance computer. One workaround is to use 8-bit at the cost of image quality. You can change the mode by going to Image > Mode > 8-bit/Channel. The downside of using 8-bit is that you may end up having banding which is when you can see the colors transition from one to the other (they do not graduate smoothly).

Alignment

You have probably had to adjust the camera while shooting and most likely you will find that the images are slightly misaligned. It may not be more than a pixel or two.

Tutorial image 1 Move tool

You use the Move Layer tool to micro adjust the misaligned layer using the arrow keys.

Addition tip – try to make more than one final image from the same photos, by switching around the night and day photos.

The post How to Compress Time Into One Photo by Jacob Surland appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Fujifilm X-H1 versus X-T2: what does the new camera bring?

24 Feb

Introduction

The Fujifilm X-H1 sits at the top of the company’s APS-C lineup, lifting expectations and capabilities beyond what was offered by the X-T2 that previously held the position.

The price and feature set, as much as Fujifilm’s claims, make clear that it’s an additional model, rather than a replacement. So just what’s changed? What’s been added and who does the new model make sense for?

Video

The X-T2 offers 4K video, but the X-H1 takes things to a different level.

Virtually every aspect of the X-H1’s video feature set is upgraded compared to the X-T2. Thanks to its larger internal volume it can shoot 4K for longer (15 mins compared to 10), and while the two cameras both impose a modest 1.17X crop, the X-H1 boasts a maximum bitrate of 200Mbps and the option to shoot F-Log internally.

The X-H1’s new ‘Eterna’ film simulation preset is intended to provide a quick and easy way to shoot gradeable, wide dynamic range video footage. For the first time, you can apply dynamic range ‘DR’ expansion settings in video mode on the X-H1, too. When combined with the DR400%, setting, footage shot using the Eterna preset, Fujifilm says it should deliver a total of 12EV of dynamic range.

Video

Less obvious improvements, but equally significant to serious videographers include a video-specific shutter speed of 1/48sec, which will give a 360, 180 and 90 degree shutter angle for 24, 30 and 60p footage. If you don’t know what that means, don’t worry about it. But if you do, you’ll appreciate it. Likewise support for time code display, and silent touch operation, which enables exposure control via the rear touch-screen.

Missing are any kind of exposure warnings, which (we’re told) would put too much stress on the X-H1’s processor.

Revamped AF system

While it uses the same 24MP APS-C X-Trans sensor as the X-T2, the X-H1’s on-sensor phase-detection autofocus system has been seriously upgraded. The most obvious improvements are to low-light sensitivity and focus tracking. The X-H1 can now focus down to -1EV (compared to the X-T2’s limit of 0.5EV) and phase-detection AF should work even at effective apertures as small as F11 – i.e. when shooting at the long end of the XF100-400mm F4.5-5.6 zoom, when combined with a 2X tele-converter.

In terms of tracking, Fujifilm quotes a substantial increase in autofocus hit-rate when faced with low contrast subjects and more reliable tracking during continuous bursts of images. Unlike the X-T2, the X-H1 can also continuously focus while zooming. Both the X-T2 and X-H1’s autofocus systems look for horizontal, vertical and high-frequency detail, but whereas in the X-T2, this information is processed in series, the X-H1’s AF system benefits from parallel data processing. Quite how Fujifilm has managed this without upgrading the X-H1’s processor (which is the same as the one used in the X-T2) is a mystery to us, but it’s impressive.

New body design

In terms of its external appearance, the X-H1 looks like a mid-point between the X-T2 and the medium-format GFX 50S. And in a sense (apart from the APS-C sensor) that’s exactly what it is. Fuji intends the X-H1 to be more ‘friendly’ to DSLR users, hence the larger grip and top-plate mounted LCD. The LCD squeezed out the traditional Fujifilm exposure compensation dial, but exposure compensation (if applied) is permanently displayed on the LCD, even when the X-H1 is turned off.

Bigger, heavier, tougher

The X-H1 is a bigger camera than the X-T2 (140 x 97 x 86mm versus 132 x 92 x 49mm) and substantially heavier (673g versus 507g – with a card and battery). The magnesium-alloy body shell of the X-H1 is 25% thicker than the X-T2, too. It’s also more scratch-resistant, and substantially stronger. As well as being physically stronger, the X-H1’s body is well sealed against the elements, with 68 seals around body seams and control points.

Quiet mechanical shutter

The X-H1’s shutter has been redesigned to offer a damped mechanical shutter mode, and electronic first-curtain (EFC) to reduce any risk of shutter shock.

The other advantage is that this makes the shutter itself quieter. In use, both the X-T2 and X-H1 are pretty discreet cameras, but the X-H1 definitely has the edge in situations where the click of a shutter would be unwelcome.

Improved EVF

The X-T2’s electronic viewfinder is excellent, and the X-H1’s EVF is even better. It’s fractionally smaller than the X-T2’s finder (0.75X magnification compared to 0.77X) but brighter, and it offers a higher resolution of 3.69 million dots (compared to 2.36 million). A subtle but welcome improvement is the increased responsiveness of the eye-sensor, too. The X-H1’s eye sensor can react in as little as 0.15sec, when your eye is raised to the finder (compared to the X-T2’s 0.4sec).

Touch-sensitive rear LCD

The X-H1 features the same articulating 1.04 million-dot rear LCD as the X-T2, but it’s touch-sensitive, allowing you to do all kinds of things, including place your desired AF point by touch, and quickly review and zoom into captured images with a fingertip.

The touchscreen also enables the X-H1’s silent movie shooting operation, which is intended to avoid the vibration and potential for operational noise associated with mechanical click dials and buttons.

In-body stabilization

Despite claiming in the past that it couldn’t be done, Fujifilm has added a 5-axis in-body stabilization system to the X-H1. In general, Fujifilm’s faster primes – without OI.S. – should offer slightly better stabilization as a result of their larger imaging circle, but ~5EV of correction will be achievable with almost all XF lenses. The X-H1’s IBIS also works in video mode, which makes it more useful for ‘run and gun’ shooting, for example with the company’s excellent new MKX cine zooms.

Flickr reduction

New in the X-series is flicker reduction for stills shooting. We’ve seen this function before in high-end DSLRs, and it works very similarly here: analyzing the fluctuation in brightness of certain artificial light-sources and timing exposure for the peak brightness. This avoids constantly fluctuating brightness when images shot in the same continuous burst. Continuous shooting speed is capped at 7fps in this mode with electronic first-curtain shutter, and 5.5fps with conventional mechanical shutter.

Most useful when shooting indoor sports, flicker reduction is another feature that either you need it or you don’t, but if you do, you really do.

Dynamic Range Priority mode

Fujifilm has been putting ‘DR’ dynamic range expansion settings in its mirrorless and compact cameras for years, but the X-H1 expands on this (no pun intended) with a ‘Dynamic Range Priority’ mode.

This has two settings: weak and strong, which use the camera’s existing DR modes in combination with flattening of the highlight and shadow ends of the tone curve. This gives a flatter, wider DR version of DR200 and DR400% modes, respectively. There’s also an ‘Auto’ setting that selects which level to apply.

Bluetooth + Wi-Fi

As well as built-in Wi-Fi, the X-H1 also includes low energy Bluetooth (BLE) for full-time connection to a smart device. This can either be used to auto-transfer all the images to your smartphone (either at full resolution or as 3MP downsized versions), when you turn the camera off.

Alternatively the Bluetooth connection should make it faster to reconnect the Wi-Fi if you want to choose which files to send.

Same sized battery

The X-H1 has been beefed-up in many respects, compared to the X-T2, but it still features the same battery. In one sense this is great news for X-T2 owners who might be thinking about upgrading to the X-H1, or adding one to their kit. However, the additional demands of the IS system sees the battery life take a small hit, compared to the older model. The X-H1’s CIPA rated battery life is 310 exposures per charge, compared to 340 from the X-T2.

Overall

The additional video features mean the X-H1 has even greater appeal to stills/video shooters than the already capable X-T2. However, the in-body image stabilization is in itself going to make the X-H1 look more attractive to some stills-only shooters.

As we’ve already seen in the comments, the increased size of the X-H1 is somewhat divisive. There are certainly ergonomic benefits to the larger grip but does mean the camera as a whole is substantially larger than previous X-series models. That said, Fujifilm’s range of APS-C specific lenses mean the combination of lens and camera is still smaller than the (often more basic) full frame models available around the same price.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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‘Perfect’ sensors may be possible, but might not come to cameras

24 Feb
Fossum’s team has created a prototype chip with a variety of pixel designs and readout methods. This included combinations with sufficiently low read noise to allow individual photons to be counted.

The future could include sensors that perfectly describe the light in the scene, that offer new computational possibilities and give film-like latitude in the highlights. And yet we may not ever see them in cameras, says father of the CMOS sensor, Professor Eric Fossum.

We spoke to Fossum shortly after he received, alongside three other pioneers of digital photography, the Queen Elizabeth Prize for Engineering for his work on CMOS sensors. But the topic of our conversation is the future, rather than his past achievements. He now leads a group at the Thayer School of Engineering at Dartmouth, New Hampshire, working on what he calls Quanta Image Sensors (QIS). The team has recently published a paper announcing a breakthrough using the same fabrication process used to make CMOS image sensors.

The perfect sensor?

The principle is to use nanoscale, specialized pixels, called ‘Jots’ to capture light at the level of individual photons. They work in a binary fashion: they’ve either received a photon or they haven’t (as opposed to conventional sensors which accumulate the charge generated by lots of photons during exposure). These jots are read repeatedly to see whether another photon has arrived since they were last checked.

While Fossum is keen to stress that other teams are having some success in the same field (using a slightly different approach), his own team’s work is looking very promising. The paper in the journal Optica shows the team’s technology has been refined such that a 1MJot chip can be read 1000 times per second while still exhibiting sufficiently low read noise that it can distinguish between individual photons.

We can count every photon: you can’t do any better than that

“The Holy Grail is no read noise,” says Fossum: “so that the read signal is proportional to the signal as it arrived.” And the team’s latest paper says they’ve got very close to this, with noise levels so low that the sensor can distinguish between individual photons without getting confused by read noise. This opens up the possibility of cameras that could perfectly describe the light in the scene, even in near total darkness.

A mathematical model showing how noise levels (measured in the root mean square of the number of electrons), affect the ability to interpret small signals. The lower the read noise, the more accurately you can distinguish between individual values in the signal.
Diagram from the team’s paper in Optica

Eliminating read noise from the sensor wouldn’t mean totally noiseless photos, since the randomness of the light being captured is a key source of noise, but it’s the best any sensor can possibly achieve. “We can count every photon: you can’t do any better than that,” he says.

The paper, perhaps conservatively, says the technology could be suited to scientific, space, security and low-light imaging applications, but Fossum has clearly also been thinking about conventional photography.

A classic response

“Because it’s binary in nature, its response is comparable to old photographic film,” he says. “In film, when the silver halide was hit by a photon, it’s reduced to a silver atom that isn’t washed away [during processing]. If it’s hit by two photons, it doesn’t make any additional difference.”

This ends up meaning that in bright regions of the image there are ever fewer unexposed silver ions as the exposure goes on. This, in turn makes it less likely that the last few ions will be hit by a photon, so it becomes increasingly difficult to fully saturate the system. The same is true for the tiny, binary Jots: as more of them become saturated, it becomes increasingly difficult to saturate the last few.

“The response is linear at moderate exposure but it trails off to give significant overexposure latitude. It’s a pattern first observed by Hurter and Driffield in 1890,” says Fossum: “they showed the same curve that we measure, experimentally, in our QIS devices.”

Diagram showing the Jots’ exposure response, in comparison to mathematical models of different read noise levels. Note the roll-off at high exposures, comparable to the Hurter Driffield response curves of photographic film.
Diagram from the team’s paper in Optica

“That has obvious interest both for still photographers who’re used to shooting film and for cinematographers who’re looking for that kind of response.”

The use of such tiny pixels has other benefits, too: “Jots are below diffraction limits in size. This means the resolution of the system is always higher than the resolution of the lens, which means we never have to worry about aliasing.” While the group’s prototype sensors feature one million Jots, Fossum says their target is one billion.

Beyond conventional photography

Fossum isn’t just thinking about photographic history, though. The tiny size and the approach of repeatedly reading out the sensor challenges the existing concept of single exposures. “At the moment we make motion pictures by shooting a series of snapshots. With QIS it’s more like the reverse process,” he says: constructing still images from precisely captured movement.

Professor Fossum has already been responsible for one revolution in photography: the invention of the CMOS sensor. In December 2017 he was awarded the Queen Elizabeth Prize for Engineering for his work.

Essentially, taking lots of short, sub-frames during an exposure gives you an extra dimension to your images: time. “If you take a single frame, you get a bunch of ones and zeros. If you take another, you quickly build up a cube of ones and zeros,” Fossum says: “For example, if you shoot 100 frames at 1000 frames per second, you get a cube that’s x pixels wide by y pixels tall, but also 100 frames deep.”

This presents some interesting questions, he says: “What do you do with that data? How do you create an image from that very faithful map of where photons arrived?”

“You could choose a number of pixels in x and y but also in the time axis. If you wanted a very sensitive pixel in low light you could combine 10 x 10 Jots in x and y and then maybe combine the data from 100 frames: it’s essentially like increasing the grain size in a more sensitive film.”

Of course you can achieve something comparable to this in conventional digital photography by downscaling an image, but Jots allow greater flexibility, Fossum says: “your pixel size could vary between different parts of the image, so in some places you’d have bigger but more sensitive grains.”

What is the object of photography? Is it artistic or an attempt to perfectly recreate the scene as it was?

The time component also opens up additional possibilities, he says: “if an object moves during these hundred frames, instead of adding all the values from the same location, you could add them at an angle that corresponds to the movement,” so that all the pixels relating to the same object are combined. “We could take out motion blur or remove the scanning effect of a computer screen in video.”

The idea of combining multiple frames in interesting ways is, of course, already becoming a core part of mobile photography, and Fossum says finding all the things that are possible is a challenge he is leaving for others: “From my point of view, we’re building a platform for computational imaging, it’s for others to develop all the ways to use it. A camera would have to take account of the new sensor capabilities.”

But it’ll ask interesting questions, he believes: “What is the object of photography? Is it artistic or an attempt to perfectly recreate the scene as it was? Some of the things we associate with photography are artifacts of the way we capture them.”

Not the only future

With all this going for it, it might seem odd that Fossum isn’t promising to deliver a second revolution in digital imaging. But, having devoted a career to developing technologies and teaching about the challenges, he’s realistic both about the work left to do and the competition any product would face.

“What we’ve already achieved is wonderful. The next challenge is adding color [awareness], but I don’t think that’s going to be particularly problematic. Then there’s power: we’ve shown we can produce a large chip that doesn’t consume or disperse a prohibitively large amount of power. We’re currently at around 27mW but scale it up by 1000 [to get to one billion Jots] and that’s 27W, so we need to cut that by about a factor of ten.”

His concern is more about the current state of the rival technologies: “In order to bring a new technology to replace the existing one, it has to be compellingly better in a number of ways,” he says. “For a few niches, [our technology] is already compelling.” But for photography, the bar is already set very high.

I don’t want our startup to be another esoteric imaging product that fails to find a market

“CMOS technology is pretty awesome right now,” he says, before almost embarrassedly stressing that he’s not claiming the credit for this: “where it is today is the result of the input from thousands of engineers from different companies who’ve contributed towards where we are now.”

Professor Eric Fossum pictured with Dr Jiaju Ma, one of the co-authors of the Optica paper and a co-founder of the spin-off company, Gigajot Technology.

But, for all his cautious words, Fossum is convinced enough by the technology’s potential to have created a company, Gigajot Technology, with his co-researchers. “Finding a sweet spot in the market is a really important part of challenge. It comes back to the things I teach: ‘who is your customer?’ ‘what is your market?’ ‘how are we going to get there?'”

“I don’t want our startup to be another esoteric imaging product that fails to find a market,” he says.

While it’s by no means certain that QIS sensors will make their way into mainstream cameras, it already looks like the technology has tremendous potential for niches such as scientific measurement. This alone shows just how far the technology has come from Fossum’s original idea. As he readily admits: “When we first started this project I wasn’t even sure it could be made to work.”

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Ex-Lexar execs have launched a new memory card company, here’s why you should care

24 Feb

ProGrade Digital is a brand new memory card brand founded by former executives of memory maker Lexar.

In June 2017 parent company Micron unexpectedly announced the end of Lexar, but the brand was shortly after acquired by Chinese company Longsys. Now, a group of former executives from both managerial and technical backgrounds has teamed up to produce and market high-quality memory cards, directly competing with Lexar itself and other high-profile storage brands, such as SanDisk.

Initially the new company will offer two lines of cards: The CFast 2.0 cards will be available in 128GB, 256GB, and 512GB capacities for $ 230, $ 350, and $ 700, respectively, and offer transfer speeds up to 550MB/sec. The UHS-II SD-card line comes in 64GB, 128GB, and 256GB capacities for $ 55, $ 95, and $ 190, respectively, delivering speeds of up to 200MB/sec.

ProGrade says the controllers in all cards are optimized for use in professional cameras, and will each be tested from component-level down to individual memory chips before leaving the factory. Add a three year warranty into the mix, and the new cards look like an enticing alternative to the established brands for photographers who demand maximum reliability.

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The brand was officially announced last week, but rather than simply cover the news, we decided to send ProGrade a few questions instead. Specifically, we wanted to know what sets the brand apart, how they expect to compete with the big guys, and why they started the company in the first place.

Mark Lewis, Vice President Marketing for ProGrade Digital, was kind enough to answer these questions:

Do we really need another memory card company?

Yes. With Micron’s sale of the Lexar brand and Western Digital’s purchase of SanDisk, there seems to be a shift in market focus for these two iconic brands and the future is uncertain.

Their decisions to realign product lines and focus solely on higher margin industrial and OEM SKUs opens up an opportunity for a new player—one with laser-focus on the professional market and whose intent it is to fill the void and service this market of professional photo, video and cinema customers. We at ProGrade Digital are that new digital memory card company who will champion their cause.

How will your company be different than the rest?

We bring several competitive advantages to help us stand apart. First, it’s about the people involved. At the executive and engineering level our team brings extensive experience, having worked for numerous years with leading components suppliers and vendors in the design and delivery of precision products specifically for this niche. Our marketing and sales group also has deep roots within the imaging industry, including professionals who not only produce still and motion capture for ProGrade Digital, but who also regularly create for private clients. Plus we acknowledge our growing family of influencers and ambassadors from both the still and motion capture worlds, individuals whom you will soon be reading more about.

The second way that we will stand apart from the competition is our product. I’ve already touched on the fact that, through our past employment, we bring a deep level of experience having built integrity into both the Lexar and SanDisk product lines. Our work here with ProGrade Digital not only lets us expand upon that foundation but, as a smaller firm, we now have the latitude and drive to make even better products specifically for the imaging markets. Two such ProGrade Digital imaging industry firsts include 100 percent in-factory test (to help us sustain a goal of zero percent failure), plus laser-etched serial numbers on each memory card. The serial number enables us to track firmware, controller and memory type. This ability to track a card’s manufacture gives us one more tool for being that much more proactive when it comes to supporting our customer base.

Other product strengths: as executive members of the SD Association and Compact Flash Association (CFA) we work with device manufacturers and other industry leaders on the development of new technologies. ProGrade Digital products are competitively priced, and distribution is limited so that we may preserve quality and control, plus maintain a direct relationship with our customer.

How can a David hope to compete against a Goliath?

If you know the story about David and Goliath you may recall that, despite Goliath’s physical size, level of experience and massive army to back him up, it was a young, small and nimble David who took precise aim and used the right weapon. ProGrade Digital is tightly focusing on a customer that we know, and specifically developing best-in-class products able to meet the needs of the professional imaging market.

What’s the future for card form factors such as SD, CFast, CFexpress and XQD?

The future for all memory cards continues to evolve. It is difficult to predict exactly what will happen to any particular form-factor, but the standards work currently being developed by the two memory card associations will help drive the direction.

Specifically, plans are in the works to move to the PCIe interface; the PCIe interface will allow for speeds to advance beyond some of the limits of the SATA interface. Of particular note are efforts being done by the Compact Flash Association (CFA) on the CFexpress form-factor. Their work has support from the major device manufacturers, and ProGrade Digital is at the forefront of those developments. As new standards gain in popularity, I believe that we will see some current form-factors slowly begin to phase out.

A big thank you to Mark for taking the time to answer these questions. If you want to learn more about this new memory card company or browse through ProGrade’s whole product line, head over to the ProGrade Digital website.

Press Release:

ProGrade Digital Launches New Line of Professional-Quality Memory Cards and Card Readers for Use with Digital Cameras, Camcorders and Cinema Cameras

Former Lexar Executives Start New Company: Pledge to Focus on Developing and Marketing Products of Superior Performance, Quality and Reliability

SAN JOSE, Calif. – Feb 15, 2018 8:00 am EST-ProGrade Digital, anew company founded on a mission to provide the highest quality, professional grade memory cards and workflow solutions available, today announced a new line of products designed to uniquely fill the needs of today’s high-end DLSRs, camcorders and digital cinema cameras. Memory cards will be offered in a variety of formats and industry-leading capacities. The company will also design and market a selection of card readers, starting with a CFast & SD Dual Slot Workflow Reader that boasts a USB 3.0, Gen. 2 transfer protocol. ProGrade Digital’s new memory cards and card readers will become available in the month of February at www.progradedigital.com, Amazon.com and B&H Photo and Video

ProGrade Digital was founded by former executives from Lexar who held management or technical leadership positions at the company recognized as the pioneer in memory card development for digital photography. The team has more than 60 years of combined experience in the design, development and manufacture of memory cards gained while working for Lexar, SanDisk and other firms. Leveraging its experience and industry relationships, the team will focus exclusively on developing and marketing memory cards, card readers and software optimized for use within professional cinema and photography markets.

“Our goal is to be the professional’s source for top performing, professional grade memory cards and workflow solutions,” says Wes Brewer, founder and CEO of ProGrade Digital. “We will be committed to focusing our efforts on the digital imaging pro who is meticulous about his equipment and workflow-delivering the best service, plus best product quality and reliability.”

Memory Card Key Features

  • Professional-level capacities for CFast 2.0 and SDXC UHS-II memory cards
  • Optimized controllers specifically designed for use in professional-grade cameras
  • Rigorous full-card testing with serialized tracking of key components and manufacturing data for the highest quality control
  • Component-level testing down to individual memory chips for optimal quality
  • 3-year warranty

Card Reader Key Features

  • Dual slot reader for CFast 2.0 and SDXC UHS-II card formats
  • USB 3.0 Gen. 2 transfer speed of up to 10Gb/second
  • Supports concurrent full-speed flow of data from cards in each slot
  • Portable and compact
  • Includes two 18? connection cables: one for Type A to Type C and one for Type C to Type C
  • Magnetized reader bottom firmly connects reader to laptop (using included metal mounting plate)
  • 2-year warranty

ProGrade Digital memory cards are designed to provide the highest levels of performance, quality and reliability in high-end DSLRs, camcorders and digital cinema cameras from manufacturers such as Canon, Nikon, Sony and Blackmagic.

ProGrade Digital cards and card readers are available online at www.progradedigital.com, Amazon.com and B&H Photo and Video.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Tiffen announces foot operated gas-lift Steadicam Air monopod

24 Feb

Tiffen has joined the monopod market with the new Steadicam Air line, which uses a gas spring and a foot pedal to help photographers quickly and easily adjust the monopod’s height.

The Steadicam Air is a three-section carbon fibre model that features a foot pedal close to the base that, when pressed, assists in lifting the mounted camera to the desired height. The monopod will come in two configurations to hold either 25lb or 15lb, and are suitable for both still and movie photographers.

Of the three sections, one uses a twist lock that allows the top of the monopod to rotate about 360°, while the other two are spring loaded for lifting the camera. A large rubber foot makes it easy to angle monopod without it slipping across the floor.

Here’s a look at the Steadicam Air in action:

The Steadicam Air-25 is available now for $ 500, while the Steadicam Air-15 will go on sale “at a later date” with a price of $ 400. For more information, head over to the Tiffen website.

Press Release

THE TIFFEN COMPANY INTRODUCES THE STEADICAM AIR

A Lightweight Carbon Fiber Pneumatic Monopod for Photographers and Cinematographers

Steadicam, a division of The Tiffen Company and Master Cinematographers teamed up to release the Steadicam Air, a revolutionary monopod that is gas lift activated by a foot pedal for adjustable height.

Setting a new standard, the Steadicam Air brings versatility back to the monopod. With its gas lift spring, the Air makes it easy for professional photographers and cinematographers to raise their heights and never miss a moment. Available in two different configurations, a 25 lb and soon after a 15 lb weight capacity, the Air is the perfect complement for professional image-makers to stabilize and support their equipment.

What sets the Steadicam Air apart from any other monopod is that it’s gas lift and spring activated. Weighing only 3.5 lbs, the Steadicam Air is made up of three sections including one twist leg lock that allows for a 360 degree rotation. The height adjustment is activated by the rubberized foot pedal which allows for a non-slip operation.

Made of carbon fiber, the Steadicam Air is lightweight and compact making it easy for travel. The Air is accompanied by a deluxe carrying bag with added protection and an ergonomic shoulder strap. It is ideal for nature, wildlife, sports, wedding, venue photographers and cinematographers alike.

The Steadicam Air-25 will be available on February 2, 2018 for $ 499 USD. The Steadicam Air-15 will available at a later date for $ 399 USD.

Features:

  • 100% gas lift, spring activated height adjustable monopod – activated by adjustable foot pedal
  • Made of Lightweight Carbon Fiber
  • 3 – Section Monopod with 1 – twist leg lock
  • Allows for full 360 degree rotation without compromise
  • Ergonomic foam padded grip point with debossed Steadicam branding on the handle
  • Removable aluminum top plate with reversible screw thread allowing for 1/4in-20 and 3/8in-16
  • Oversized rubber foot giving you extra stability connected to ball point
  • Quick twist rubberized leg grips
  • Non-slip, rubberized foot pedal allows for easy grip operation. Pedal also folds up with travel purposes and quick transport
  • Collapsed Height = 28in
  • Fully Extended Height = 62.5in
  • Sleek red accents

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Weekly Photography Challenge – Headshots

24 Feb

You don’t need a fancy studio or lights to do good headshots, but there are a few things you need to get right like the lighting and posing.

Karthika Gupta Memorable Jaunts DPS Article - Sigma 135mm lens review-11

Images by dPS author Karthika Gupta.

Here are some tips for both to help with this week’s challenge:

  • How to Make Headshots That Glow
  • 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
  • How to Pose People for Headshots
  • 3 Steps to Professional-Looking Headshots Using One Flash
  • Video Tutorials – Portrait Posing Tips

Weekly Photography Challenge – Headshots

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favorite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Headshots by Darlene Hildebrandt appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Kodak Alaris is bringing back T-Max P3200 high-speed B&W film

24 Feb

Film photographers are celebrating today after news broke that Kodak Alaris will resurrect another popular product: Kodak T-Max P3200 high-speed black-and-white film. After teasing the resurrection on Twitter, a brief press release confirmed the news this morning, revealing that the debut will happen some time next month.

Kodak originally discontinued T-Max P3200 film in October of 2012 due to a severe drop in demand, directing its customers toward the T-Max 400 as an alternative. However, the film photography market has seen an increase in demand over the last few years, and Kodak Alaris is using that demand as proof that products like T-Max P3200 and the soon-to-be-rereleased Ektachrome film deserve another shot.

The ‘rebirth’ of T-Max P3200 began on social media. In a tweet posted yesterday, Kodak shared an image that reads “Are you in the dark?” followed by a series of numbers that total 3200. The combination hinted at the T-Max P3200 film, which Kodak says can be push processed up to ISO 25,000.

Though the company didn’t provide any additional details via that tweet, someone did spot an image shared by Australian film store Ikigai Camera on its Instagram account. The image—which has since been removed, hinting at an ‘accidental’ leak—showed the T-Max P3200 film box alongside the words, “Welcome back March 2018.”

Screenshot from the Kodak Alaris website.

Fortunately, it’s not just teasers and leaks anymore. The company followed up the unofficial news with an official announcement earlier today, saying it will begin shipping the product to US stockhouse dealers and distributors starting in March, followed by other markets “shortly thereafter.”

The company says the resurrected film is best suited for handheld street photography, as well as night shots and work in any “dimly lit venues where you can’t use a flash.”

Press Release

{PressRelease}

Kodak Alaris Revives KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX P3200 Film / TMZ

Multi-Speed B&W Film to be Available in March, 2018

ROCHESTER, N.Y. February 23, 2018Kodak Alaris announced today that it is bringing back KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX P3200 Film / TMZ, a multi-speed panchromatic black-and-white negative film. While the nominal film speed of P3200 TMZ is ISO 800, the “P” means it’s designed to be push processed to EI 3200 or higher. This film excels when shooting in low light or when capturing fast action. It is ideally suited for handheld street scene photography, night work, and in dimly lit venues where you can’t use flash.

“It’s no secret that we’ve been looking for opportunities to expand our portfolio” said Dennis Olbrich, President – Kodak Alaris Paper, Photo Chemicals and Film. “Darkroom photography is making a comeback, and B&W Film sales are clearly on a positive trajectory. Given these very encouraging market trends, we believe P3200 TMZ will be a great addition to our lineup”.

Kodak Alaris plans to offer KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX P3200 Film in 135-36x format. Shipments to Distributors and Stockhouse dealers will begin in March in the U.S., with other regions around the world following shortly thereafter.

To learn more, please visit www.kodakalaris.com/go/profilms

Follow us on Twitter @kodakprofilmbiz and Instagram @KodakProfessional

Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/kodakprofessional

{/PressRelease}

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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