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Posts Tagged ‘Vintage’

A visual and auditory journey through the shutter sounds of vintage film cameras

28 Oct

Photographer Ace Noguera has published a video highlighting not only the great style of vintage cameras but also their distinct shutter sounds. It’s a satisfying watch and listen.

Of his video, Noguera told DPReview, ‘The video came from an idea I’ve had for a while, to simply showcase how shutter sounds and technology has changed over the years. I thought it would be cool and entertaining to put it in a visual format and share with others how not only designs have changed over the years, but how we’ve been able to integrate electronics to help automate how we take photos.’

In total, the video below showcases the look and sound of nine cameras, dating back to the 1940s. The cameras come from Noguera’s collection with some additions from his friend, Patch Agan. It’s fascinating to hear how shutter sounds have changed over the years. There’s something particularly satisfying about the Olympus Trip XB3 from 1996.

While the video isn’t overly comprehensive in the cameras it covers, Noguera assures us there are more shutter sounds on the way, telling us, ‘I do plan on making another video that will also include some digital cameras as well as just further show the advancement in the tech and design of cameras. I plan to somewhat pick up where this video left off and showcase the next 20 years of sounds and cameras.’

Noguera hopes to record medium format cameras as well. He continues, ‘I think it would be awesome to be able to record some medium format cameras like the iconic Pentax 67 or even the modern medium format like Hasselblads as well.’ Hopefully, some photographers near Noguera in Atlanta will be able to help him out.

To see more from Noguera, follow him on Instagram and check out his YouTube channel. On his YouTube channel, you will find tutorials, lens reviews and much more.

Do you have a favorite camera shutter sound? Do you miss the physical shutter sound when using an electronic shutter in many modern cameras? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Cosina announces new VM-mount Voigtlander Nokton Vintage Line 50mm F1.5 Aspherical II VM lens

05 Oct

Cosina has announced (translated) the release of its new Voigtlander Nokton Vintage Line 50mm F1.5 Aspherical II VM lens, an updated version of its predecessor, which was released back in June 2013.

The second-generation lens features an entirely redesigned optics system and a more compact body to match. It’s constructed of eight elements in seven groups, has an aperture range of F1.5-F16, uses a 12-blade aperture diaphragm and has a minimum focusing distance of 70cm (27.5”). The lens measures in at just 55mm (2.17”) diameter and 37mm (1.5”) in length.

The left and center lenses are the aluminum models; the right lens is the brass version.0

The lens is constructed almost entirely of metal, with knurled rings for manually adjusting both the aperture and focus. Interestingly, Cosina is offering the lens in two different versions: a multi-coating version (MC) and a single-coating version (SC). In its own words, Cosina says the MC version ‘aims to reproduce colors as neutral as possible’ while the single coating ‘reproduces classical colors.’

Below is a sample gallery of images captured with the lens and provided by Cosina:

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Cosina is offering the lens in black and silver versions constructed of aluminum, while a more premium model constructed of nickel-plated and black-painted brass is also available.

All versions of the Voigtlander Nokton Vintage Line 50mm F1.5 Aspherical II VM lens use a bayonet VM mount that can be used with Vessa and M-mount cameras (not including the Bessa L and R). The Japan launch date is October 22 for all models and pricing is listed at ¥100,000 (~$ 950) for the aluminum models and ¥115,000 (~$ 1,100) for the brass model. Currently, no information on availability outside of Japan is mentioned.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Five reasons you still need vintage lenses in 2020

27 Jan

Photographer and filmmaker Mark Holtze has shared a video explaining ‘5 Reasons Why You Need Vintage Lenses in 2020.’

Throughout the eight-minute video, Holtze highlights five particular reasons vintage, manual lenses still make sense despite increasingly-impressive lenses manufacturers are making nowadays. Holtze says in a comment beneath the video ‘I could have made a list of top 100, but honestly…nobody is sitting through 90 mins of this,’ so eight minutes it is.

Not all of the reasons will make sense for all photographers or filmmakers, but each is valid in their own way. You can find more videos from Holtze on his YouTube channel and keep up with his work on Instagram and Twitter.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Voigtlander’s 75mm F1.5 Vintage Line Nokton lens is now available for $999

12 Nov

Earlier this year, Voigtlander released details of a 75mm F1.5 Vintage Line Nokton lens for Leica M-mount camera systems. Now, the lens is shipping and effectively replacing the 75mm F1.8 Heliar Classic lens Voigtlander previously offered.

As noted in our initial coverage, the lens comes in black and silver variations. It features an optical design made of seven elements in six groups including three low-dispersion elements and one aspherical element. The lens is manual focus with a minimum focusing distance of 70cm (2.3ft) and features a clicking aperture ring with a range between F1.5 and F16 using a twelve-blade aperture diaphragm.

The 75mm F1.5 Nokton weighs in at 350g (12.35oz) and measures in at 63.8mm x 63.3mm (2.5in x 2.5in). Leica Rumors has posted a gallery of sample images (JPEG, straight out of camera) taken with the lens attached to a Leica M10 in an album on Flickr. Below is a gallery of sample images provided by Leica:

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The lens is available in black and silver models and currently in stock at B&H for $ 999.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Basics of Simulating Vintage Film in Lightroom

15 Feb

The post The Basics of Simulating Vintage Film in Lightroom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

Like all forms of art, photography can be a complex and contradictory medium. It’s straightforward yet complicated; personal but at the same time wholly based in exhibitionism. In recent years perhaps the weirdest and paradoxical event to happen in the world of photography is the idea of simulating film photographs with our digital photography. Think about it for a second or two. We’ve moved (for the majority) from using physical photographic film to digital sensors, and still, we are searching for the feel and aesthetic quality of the very process we left behind.

F:\DPS Images\Simulating Vintage Film\simulating-vintage-analog-film-in-lightroom-adam-welch-dps-8.png

A digital photo split toned for yellow in the shadows and blue in the highlights. Faded and then finally grain added to approximately simulate ISO 800 film.

We’ll leave the discussion of the currently popular “analog renaissance” for another day. For now, let’s talk about how you can go about simulating the look of a photographic film. More specifically, creating vintage or expired film looks using Adobe Lightroom. Adobe has made a couple of big updates to Lightroom lately that make working towards that “vintage film look” more effective and easier than ever before! Simulating the look of any film consists of four core dimensions: color, contrast, and grain. Before we get into the “how” of simulating film in Lightroom, let’s first briefly talk about some of the confusion surrounding film photography in general.

Film photography is full of variables

There’s a misconception that the look of film is set in stone; meaning that “XXX type of film always looks like this and XXXX type of film always looks like this.” Nothing could be further from the truth! There are all kinds of factors which play a roll (film humor) in how the final negative or print appears to the viewer.

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A Nikon F3 35mm film camera. Shot with a digital camera…made to look like a vintage film. Ironic.

The age of the film, how it was stored, type and temperature of chemicals used in development, the duration of development, even how we agitate the chemicals around the film all play a major part in how the finished film appears. Also, when it comes to the final print, there are even more variables that can affect the look of the picture. The reason I’m saying all of this is to make sure you understand that simulating the look of vintage films has just as much to do with your creativity as it does with understanding the basics of how film works. There is no explicit right or wrong! So relax and let’s get to work learning how to simulate the look of vintage film in Lightroom.

Color

Color is the most effective part of the simulation process and there are many routes we can take to manipulate the colors of our vintage film simulations. The “vintage look” comes about literally by the progression of time. As the light-sensitive emulsion of the film degrades, it produces all sorts of funky color tones and nuances. To simulate this effect of color aging, we will use the tried and true Split Toning Panel and also one of the biggest and newest features to come along for Lightroom: Creative Profiles.

Split Toning

Don’t worry, split toning can look a little intimidating but it’s really not! Split toning is just a way for us to add in specific color tones to the shadows and highlights within our photo.

simulating-vintage-analog-film-in-lightroom-adam-welch-dps-2

To change the color tone of the highlights move the highlights color slider to the color tone you like or select it from the color palette.

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You can also change the saturation of the highlight colors by using the saturation slider. The same goes for the color toning of the shadows as well.

The balance slider is just a way for us to control the bias of the split toning to favor either the highlights or the shadows. Moving the balance slider towards the left makes the shadow toning more prominent while sliding it to the right makes the highlight color stand out. There are limitless combinations of colors and saturation balances so feel free to experiment. Just remember that using complementary colors for the shadows and highlights (blue and orange, yellow and violet) are always a good choice when it comes to split toning. Also, color changes in an expired film are usually quite subtle so keep that in mind as well as your tone.

Creative Profiles

One of the coolest and most versatile new features to come along for Lightroom recently is the introduction of “Creative Profiles.” Profiles have long been a part of Lightroom, but now we have the option to apply our own custom profiles that we’ve either bought or made ourselves. To learn more about the full power of Adobe’s Creative Profiles check out another one of my articles here. For our purposes, Creative Profiles allow us to introduce color grading to our vintage film simulations.

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The great things about creative profiles are that they apply themselves without disrupting any of your development settings. What’s more, you can dial in the strength of the profile using the density slider. Being able to use controllable color grading with creative profiles not only opens up a whole new world when it comes to simulating vintage film but in all areas of your post-processing workflow.

Contrast

Unlike color, simulating the contrast of vintage film in Lightroom is more or less a straightforward idea. Generally, as the emulsion of a photographic film ages its contrast usually decreases. This is due to the breakdown of the light sensitivity of the film.

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A 4×5 large format negative

The amount of contrast lost depends on a number of things such as the age of the film, the way it was stored, and the actual type of the film itself. The take away from this is that a good guideline for vintage film simulations is to essentially “fade” the image by decreasing its contrast. You can achieve this in a few ways. The most simple being to use the contrast slider to lessen the contrast. However, there’s a more precise and arguably more appealing way to fade the photo; by using the tone curve.

simulating-vintage-analog-film-in-lightroom-adam-welch-dps-5

To decrease the contrast and ultimately simulate the fading of an image all we need to do is take the control point at the bottom left of the tone curve and move it directly upwards. This controls the luminance values of the darks in the photo and makes those areas appear lighter which in turn makes them less contrasted. In most cases, you’ll want to add at least one more control point to the right of the one you’re adjusting and pull the rest of the tone curve back down. Of course, this is completely subjective. Feel free to add other control points and play around with the tone curve to really control the way your fades appear within your photo. Remember, there is no correct amount of fading so experiment as much as you like!

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Grain

The final facet of our vintage film simulation routine is to add in and control simulated grain to our photos. Not to be confused with digital noise, film grain is a direct result of the visibility of the individual silver crystals present in the films light-sensitive emulsion. The more/larger the crystals which present in the emulsion, the more sensitive the film to light and the higher it’s ISO rating. While the overall appearance of grain depends on a vast array of variables, a general rule is that the higher the ISO of the film the more pronounced the film grain becomes. So if you are attempting to make your simulations appear as a highly light-sensitive film such as ISO 1200 or ISO 3200, the more grain needs to be added to your simulations. If you are shooting for a lower ISO film for your vintage film simulation, say an ISO 80 or ISO 100 speed, you add less grain or even none at all. Here’s an image from a medium speed expired 35mm film, Kodak Tri-X 400. It was developed at a higher temperature and agitated quite a bit to bring out more of the grain.

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To control the presence of the grain we add in Lightroom we are presented with three sliders: amount, roughness and size.

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When you think about each of these sliders, it’s easy to visualize how they affect your image if you imagine them as physically controlling characteristics of the light-sensitive silver crystals of the film’s emulsion. The Amount slider would add in more or less crystals. Roughness is how raised or bumpy those crystals appear. Lastly, the Size slider controls how large or small those crystals seem. I know…that might still be a little confusing. So I’ve made up a quick guide for adding in your grain and given a couple of common real-world 35mm film stocks as reference points:

  • ISO 50-100(Kodak Ektar 100, Ilford FP4 Plus, Fujichrome Velvia 50)
    Amount: 15
    Size: 10
    Roughness: 10
  • ISO 200-400(Kodak Tri-X 400, Ilford HP5 Plus)
    Amount: 30
    Size: 10
    Roughness: 10
  • ISO 800-1600(Fujifilm Superia X-Tra 800, Fujifilm Superia 1600, Kodak Portra 800)
    Amount: 45
    Size: 40
    Roughness: 15
  • ISO 3200 and above(Kodak T-Max P3200, Ilford Delta 3200)
    Amount: 60
    Size: 40
    Roughness: 45

Lightroom automatically sets the “size” and “roughness” sliders to 25 and 50 respectively. If you add ANY amount of grain to your photo remember that those defaults are set out of the gate. Also, something to keep in mind, the amount of grain added largely depends on the original digital ISO of your photo. The values listed above are merely baseline approximations.

Vintage film simulations: Why?

Even as we steep in the digital waters of today’s modern photography world, I still have a love and lust for shooting film. Film, especially expired and vintage film, carries an aesthetic that goes beyond digitized image files of “1’s” and “0’s”. Speaking just for myself, the majority of my professional work consists of digital photography – not film. To that end, I’m sure that some of you are still thinking, “If you want the look of film, just shoot film.” Yes, I understand that even at its most basic applications, film photography isn’t for everyone. That’s why being able to approximate the looks of so many different types of film in Lightroom is such a wonderfully paradoxical thing. We can still enjoy the accessibility and convenience of digital photography without wholly sacrificing the “feel” of film. What’s more is that thanks to the recent advances of color profiles in Lightroom, we can now blend and mix our settings until we reach that perfect imperfectness which captures the organic unpredictability of vintage film. Which, when you think about it, should grant each of us the realization of how extremely fortunate we are to be living in such a cool time to be photographers.

Test out the ideas in this article and try some vintage film simulations of your own. Be sure to post your results in the comments. We’d love to see them!

 

You may also find these articles on vintage techniques helpful:

How to Add a Toy Camera Effect to Your Digital Images Using Photoshop

How to Mimic a Digital Cyanotype Using Photoshop with Ease

How to Create a Lithography Effect Using Photoshop

How To Mimic a Cross-Processing Effect in Photoshop

How to Mimic Lomography in Photoshop with Ease

The post The Basics of Simulating Vintage Film in Lightroom appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Voigtlander Vintage Line lenses for Leica M mount get prices for US, UK markets

31 Jan

Prices have been released in the USA and UK for a pair of new Voigtlander lenses designed for M mount rangefinder cameras. Both the Color-Skopar 21mm f/3.5 VM Aspherical Vintage Line and the Ultron 35mm f/2 VM Aspherical Vintage Line will cost $ 799/£599 and are available now.

The aim of the lenses is to provide compact and high quality optics in a retro style that conjures the essence of the 1950s. The company says it targeted more moderate maximum apertures so that it could keep the lenses small, but also because very wide apertures are less practical when using rangefinders, especially when the subject isn’t central or is moving in the frame.

There is a sample gallery of images taken with the lenses in DPReview’s original news article, and there’s more information in the Voigtlander website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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NameThatLens is a cross-platform tool for adding EXIF info to vintage manual lenses

03 Jul
Erwan Hesry/Unsplash

Do you ever shoot with older lenses that aren’t capable of transmitting metadata to the camera when you shoot? If so, you might want to try out NameThatLens, a cross-platform program that simplifies the process of adding lens information to photo files.

NameThatLens was developed by Georg Fiedler, a photographer who often shoots with classic and vintage manual lenses. ‘Unlike with a modern auto-focus lens, a digital camera has no way of determining what lens was used to take a photo, or indeed what the aperture and focal length were set to,’ says Fiedler in the NameThatLens announcement post, adding ‘it is therefore not possible to record this metadata in the image RAW file or processed JPEG file.’

Fiedler says he came across the LensTagger plugin for Lightroom, but felt limited, because he often uses other post-processing programs such as Darktable. So, he set out to develop his own version—one that would work across Windows, MacOS and Linux computers. The result was NameThatLens.

In Fiedler’s own words, ‘NameThatLens, in its current form, is essentially a GUI for the wonderful ExifTool by Phil Harvey.’ But the goal is to turn it into a standalone program ‘in the near future.’

Currently, you can create author profiles, lens profiles and image parameters. The author profile tab of NameThatLens adds artist and copyright information to the images, the lens profile tab is a collection of the manual lenses you shoot with and the image parameter tab lets you set the aperture, focal length (if it’s a zoom lens) and other details.

As of writing this, the following formats are tested and proven to work with NameThatLens: JPG, ARW, ORF, and RAF, although Fiedler notes that most any image file you throw its way should ‘theoretically’ work.

Fiedler notes that the program is in Alpha phase, meaning there’s still work to be done and bugs to squash. However, if you’re fine with possibly running into a few snags, you’re free to download it and take it for a spin. Currently, the MacOS and Linux versions are available, with the Windows version set to be ‘released shortly.’

You can find out more information on NameThatLens, complete with installation instructions on Fiedler’s NameThatLens webpage.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Interview: Sofi Lee is a pro shooting with vintage digital compacts

07 Dec
Portrait of the photographer

Film nostalgia in photography might be all the rage today – it seems a lot of people are hungry for that ‘organic, analog look’ – but for Seattle photographer Sofi Lee, nostalgia for vintage digital compacts is a lot more fun. And it’s the limitations of these cameras that help to set Sofi’s professional work apart from the crowd.

Lee only graduated college two years ago, but in that short time has amassed quite a few clients in the Pacific Northwest by shooting beautiful images that, yes, feature blown highlights, chromatic aberration, rudimentary noise reduction, coma and more.

Tell me about your professional work as a photographer.

I do photography and animated GIFs, mostly for journalistic purposes. My Seattle clients include Seattle Weekly, The Stranger, City Arts and the Weekly Volcano in Tacoma. Nationally I’ve worked for Vice.

Sofi shoots a lot of portrait work for publication in the Pacific Northwest. This image, of the band Pleather, was shot on a Fujifilm FinePix E900. Photo: Sofi Lee

I know you spend a lot of time shooting with digital cameras from the early and mid- 2000’s. Tell me a little bit about your interest in these cameras.

I first got into older point and shoots back in 2014. At the time, the analog revival was really taking off. I was in a commercial photography trade school and watched many of my peers either straight up shooting film or trying to recreate the aesthetics of film in editing. There were definitely a lot of talks in class about photographs looking ‘too digital’ as well as instructions on how to add more of an ‘organic, analog’ feel to your images.

There were definitely a lot of talks in class about photographs looking too ‘digital’ as well as instructions on how to add more of an ‘organic, analog’ feel to your images.

At the time, I observed to myself that the re-emergent fascination with film was probably ephemeral, specific to the current zeitgeist and highly rooted in nostalgia. So I asked myself, ‘What will be the thing people look back to next, after film?’ I started digging through Flickr archives of photos taken on older point and shoot digital cameras, or ‘digicams’ as some people called them, and felt there was something different about them.

They stood out in a way apart from modern digital files: The dynamic range is narrower and the shadows have a character that looks different from those of modern CMOS cameras [due to the lower pixel count and simplistic noise reduction]. That really interested me, so I started spending hours poring over DPReview [laughs] looking for cameras. I made a list of qualities I looked for: cameras with CCD sensors that shot Raw and, initially, were released around 2001.

The Canon PowersShot G2, in hand.

So what was the first camera you settled on?

The camera I ended up settling on was the Canon PowerShot G2. It turned out that Raw was very uncommon for cameras at the time apart from pretty much Canon cameras. I also picked it out because its maximum aperture is F2.0. The body also has a classic look to it, something ineffably iconic of its era. When I saw it, I said to myself, ‘That’s the one.’

The Canon G2 ended up coming with me everywhere I went. I think a lot of photographers find freedom when they shoot film, but I found it here instead.

So I started taking photos and made a Tumblr [blog] album called Summer of G2 to host it. With this gallery, I did street photography, still life and portraits and kind of let loose, departing from the more restrained work I had to do in my commercial photography studies. The G2 ended up coming with me everywhere I went. I think a lot of photographers find freedom when they shoot film, but I found it here instead.

Another portrait shot on the Fujifilm FinePix E900. Photo: Sofi Lee

You mentioned that you appreciate the limited dynamic range and blown highlights that come with these older digicams, specifically ones with CCD sensors. What else do you consider to be part of the vintage digicam look?

This is by no means specific to CCD sensors, but one thing that really stood out to me was chromatic aberration. Obviously, this is something that’s been around as long as glass has, but because of the of the tiny sensors and lenses, CA really stands out. A lot of people hate this, but I think it’s gorgeous. I feel like people look like they’re glowing when they’re surrounded by CA.

Another thing is, well, I basically have a grudge against shallow depth of field and bokeh. It’s something which has a stranglehold on the photo-aesthetic world right now. I get why people like it and why it emerged as ‘looking professional’ when everyone shot with digicams. But on the other hand, I like a deep depth of field a lot. I think there’s a lot of challenges when having to account for everything in the frame being in focus. I have to really stop and think about what I’m shooting before I shoot it.

The Canon S40.

So you started with the Powershot G2 (2001) – did you eventually move on to more modern cameras? if so, tell me a little bit about that journey.

When I first picked up the G2, I also started going to thrift stores almost every day to hunt for interesting cameras. I lived really close to a Goodwill [thrift store] so I’d stop by every time I happened to pass it, say on the way to get groceries. On my free days, I’d travel to the suburbs and hit up every thrift store there.

Soon enough, I amassed a pretty sizable collection. No one was really looking for these cameras at the time, so they were cheap and plentiful. Since then, actually, I’ve seen a lot fewer. I’m curious if other people are starting to get into them as well. That or Goodwill is catching on and just putting them on their online store.

Anyway, the first cameras I started using after the G2 were the PowerShot S series. I got the Canon S40 first and then I came across an S30, brand new in the box with manual and cable and stickers and all.

What did you pay for it, do you remember?

Five bucks, I think. Originally it was a $ 200-300 camera.

Just a small part of Sofi’s ‘digicam’ collection.

Wow.

I honestly picked up so many cameras. Anytime I saw something interesting, I would look it up, see if it had a CCD sensor and if it did and was old enough, I would grab it. Eventually I accumulated too many and had to become more selective.

‘My sweet spot now is between 2008-2011. Cameras from this era have a good resolution for print but still have the digicam look.’

I started keeping a Google Sheets document of every camera that shot Raw on my smartphone. There’s a Wikipedia page that helped a lot. And one by one, I ticked a lot of those cameras off. Actually, a few months ago, my assistant was looking through my collection and was just like, ‘Wow, you have pretty much everything on this list.’

The S30 was $ 5, what was the average price you were spending, and was there a cut off in terms of how high you would go for a camera?

It was all dirt-cheap. I remember one time I picked up a PowerShot G6 for 12 bucks. Some of the higher-end looking ones, like the Olympus E-20, would go for $ 25. Those would be a little out of my range: it depended on how nice it was. I’ve definitely walked away from cameras that were too expensive.

A portrait shot on the Panasonic LX5. Photo: Sofi Lee

CCD sensors were eventually replaced by CMOS sensors in a lot of these premium point and shoots. What year do you consider your cut off when shopping for used compacts?

My sweet spot now is between 2008-2011. I get asked to do professional/commercial work with these cameras and there was a while I’d have art directors telling me, ‘this stuff is great, but can you give it to us in higher resolution?’ [laughs] And I’d have to say, ‘Sorry, this is the highest I have.’ Because of this, I started narrowing down the cameras I was using and stuck with ones that shot higher resolution.

Cameras from this era [2008-2011] have a good resolution for print but still have the digicam look – great optics and Raws that allow me to do what I want. That’s not to say the cameras before that time weren’t any good, but the Raws can be challenging to work with.

You mentioned resolution and I guess in the simplest terms, to what extent does image quality matter to you? And does it matter to you personally, or is it more just the requirements of being a working professional?

I would say it’s mostly requirements. I’m even fine with 5MP cameras – that’s the lower end of what I’ll accept – but as long as it takes a good photo I’m generally happy. I think there’s too much emphasis on megapixels. Maybe that’s just because people like cropping their 42MP images. I don’t like cropping though, I try to get it all in camera if I can.

The Olympus XZ-1.

So what cameras are you currently shooting with? If you were headed out on a shoot after this interview, what would be in your bag?

I always have the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX150 (2008) on me. It literally lives in my bag and I never leave home without it. I use it more than I use my cell phone camera, actually. I love this one because it’s an ultracompact with a 15MP CCD sensor and also shoots Raw. It keeps a low profile: everyone just thinks you’re an anachronistic tourist when you use it. It’s quite a marvel of engineering; there really isn’t anything else like it. I use it in about 90% of my photos. It also has the unique honor of being DxOMark’s worst camera [laughs].

I always have the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX150 (2008) on me. It literally lives in my bag and I never leave home without it.

But if I need to do a portrait or something involving a strobe then I have a few different options. I’ll use either the Olympus XZ-1 or the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5, which I really like for the aspect ratio options. I also shoot with the Fujifilm E550, an older model – from 2004 I think – that manages to shoot 12MP Raws, higher than most DSLRs at the time. It has the best flash metering I’ve ever seen. It’s also nice and compact, with great ergonomics. I’ve done a number of shoots with it, including band portraits.

A portrait shot on the Olympus X-Z1. Photo: Sofi Lee

Do you run into any issues sourcing batteries or cables for these old cameras?

A lot of that is available through eBay and Amazon stores, actually! So that hasn’t been that big of an issue. The biggest issue is sourcing accessories. I like collecting the original optional accessories as well, such as flash units or cases, and that’s really the more challenging part. This is stuff I really have to hunt for and a lot of the times I only find them if I look up obscure reviews or old manufacturer’s websites in Japanese.

The bigger issue, really, is memory cards. Most of the cameras take CF or SD cards but there are some like the Fujifilm E550 that take XD cards. Those are somewhat uncommon, tend to be expensive for their capacity and a pain to get files off onto my computer. I also have a Fuji that only takes PCMCIA cards. Yeah, that’s no fun.

Sofi’s cable drawer.

So do you have a favorite camera in your collection?

I find myself always coming back to the FX150 and the LX5, but I’ve talked enough about those I think. I have a sentimental connection to the G2. But right now I’m really excited by the Ricoh Caplio GX100 and the Panasonic LX2.

I picked up the GX100 at a thrift store for $ 6: it was in pristine condition and looked just like the GR series. It’s very basic yet basically anything you could want in a camera of that size. The LX2, though, is fun because of the widescreen 16:9 sensor. It’s the same aspect ratio as APS film in APSH mode, so it reminds me of that when I’m shooting with it.

How many digital cameras do you think you own?

Maybe like 50.

Getting back to this current wave of film nostalgia, do you think we will look back at this era, 10, 20 years from now and laugh at ourselves?

Trends always change: I definitely don’t see photography aesthetics being static. If you look at the history of photography we can see how a lot of styles came and went. The obsession with shallow depth of field and bokeh is another thing that will probably go at some point. I’m personally getting tired of seeing one eyelash in focus.

The Panasonic LX2, in hand.

What’s the deal with pixel peepers?

I think there are a lot of different reasons people are into pixels, but I think pixel-peeping as a phenomenon has a lot to do with consumerism. People want the ‘best of the best’ and back it up through a variety of ‘scientific tests.’ Personally, I’m not into technical perfection and feel that falling into pixel-peeping strips photography from a lot of its character. In fact, high-end cameras, once you’re pretty good at shooting, make it too easy to produce an acceptable image. Where’s the fun in that?

That said, I think flipping the complete opposite direction – analogue worship, basically – isn’t good either. This comes from a false dichotomy that film is all character. There’s more than one way to be ‘pro-character’ or ‘against pixel peeping’.

A lot of interviews I read on photography sites end with a sort of adage about the best camera being the one you have with you or how film inspires you to just think and shoot rather than pixel peep. I think photography is more than just capturing an image though; it’s also about imposing your vision on it. The best camera is the one that’s right for the vision, with the right noise profile, lens distortions, etc. Anyway, I’m sort of rambling [laughs].


Check out more of Sofi Lee’s photography and animated GIF work at Sofi.pics, and in the gallery below:

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Photographer shoots one model with three different vintage lenses

27 Sep

Photographer and filmmaker Mathieu Stern is good to his word. He said he would start a series of videos highlighting vintage lenses, and he has. In his second installment of “three vintage lenses, one model” he shoots the same model (obviously) using the Konica Hexanon 28mm f/3.5, Minolta MD 100mm f/2.5, and Industar 50-2 50mm f/3.5.

You might remember his previous test where he compared the Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 S.S.C., the Soligor 21mm f/3.8, and the Helios 103 53mm f/1.8 (which he had modified for tilt focusing).

This comparison is shot exactly the same way: no overbearing voiceover, just a quick introduction to the lenses before he goes out and shows all three in action at three different locations. Results are shown on-screen so you’ll want to watch this full screen at the highest resolution your internet connection can handle.

Let us know in the comments which of the three lenses is your favorite, and if you like this comparison check out Mathieu’s YouTube channel for a lot more vintage gear goodness.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Vintage lens shootout: three lenses, one model

09 Aug

Vintage lens enthusiast Mathieu Stern took a break from coughing up fake blood in the name of dispelling lens myths this week to compare some of his favorite vintage lenses in a shootout. Stern went out for a single photo shoot with one model and three vintage lenses: the Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 S.S.C., the Soligor 21mm f/3.8, and the Helios 103 53mm f/1.8 (modified for tilt focusing).

The video is the first in a new video series that will help highlight the unique qualities of vintage glass by comparing three lenses at a time.

Definitely don’t expect ultra-sharp photos that’ll compare with the best (technically speaking) glass of today. But you should expect unique and interesting looking photos that might just inspire you to pick up some of these cheap old lenses on eBay and have some fun. Here’s a sample photo captured with each lens:

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If you’re into the vintage look, the nice thing about these lenses is that they usually don’t cost you much to try out for yourself. Just do a quick eBay search and you’ll see that you can grab a Helios 103 53mm f/1.8 for less than $ 40, a Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 S.S.C. for about $ 80, and the most expensive of the bunch, the Soligor 21mm f/3.8, for $ 275.

For more vintage lens reviews and other oddball videos, check out Mathieu’s YouTube Channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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