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Capture One Pro 12 Review – Whats New and Should You Upgrade?

12 Feb

The post Capture One Pro 12 Review – Whats New and Should You Upgrade? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

Screenshot of Capture One

Capture One have recently released version 12 of their image editing software. Capture One have made a name for their high quality imaging software that offers professional users the best control of their images. But does version 12 deliver this? And, more importantly, is it worth upgrading to from version 11?

What’s new?

Capture one say “Capture One 12 delivers better, faster, and more creative control. New features includes advanced masking functionality, an even more efficient and intuitive user experience, plug-in compatibility, and much more”

In any software, a speed increase is always welcome. In use, Capture One 12 is slightly quicker on my machine, which is nice. Is it enough on it’s own to make me upgrade? Probably not. However, there are lots of other features that make it much more appealing. These include an updated interface, new masking options, intelligent adjustments copying and much more. Let’s look at each of the updated features in more detail.

New updated interface

The menu system in Capture One Pro 12 is more customizable than before. The new icons have been upgraded, which does make it look fresh. I like the new design, but this is nothing to get excited about. There is a redesigned keyboard shortcuts panel though, which is useful for those who like to create their own. I’m not someone who delves deep into creating my own shortcuts, but I do appreciate the new design. If you are so inclined, you have the option to create more than 500 customizable commands.

C1 Interface

The updated interface. Yes, it is a little nicer, but not a massive difference. V12 is on the left.

New masking options

New masking options are something to get excited about. The Luminosity masking allows you to create a mask based on the Luma Range of the file. This makes it really simple to create a mask to bring back only the darkest of shadows or add clarity to the lightest part of the image. It is a straightforward system that works well in practice.

Linear gradient masks have also been transformed to give more precise control, which many of us will really find useful. The addition of Radial Gradient Masks is another handy option for those who like to create custom vignettes on their images.

Screenshot of luminosity mask in Capture One

Luminosity masks are a great time saver and probably my favourite new feature in Capture One 12

Intelligent adjustments copying

I love this update. I use Capture One for about 80% of my editing. This includes minor skin retouching and cropping, etc. It used to be that when I copied the adjustments and pasted across to a batch of images, I then had to go in and undo the crop and remove the retouching on each image. Now, the copy-paste tool ignores options such as crop and spot healing by default, but if you want to add them, it is simple to do so. A great timesaver and a feature I love.

Screenshot of intelligent copy

A small thing, but a massive timesaver. Copy/paste adjustments without adding the crop is huge for my workflow. What about yours?

Plugins

Plugins are the one feature that I love from Lightroom. Finally, Capture One is allowing plug-ins to work with their system. With this being new the range is limited, but obviously, this will increase over time. A great time saver, I can’t wait to see the potential of this increase going forward.

Plugin Screenshot for Capture One

At launch the plugins are limited, but this will grow and become a great time saver for many users.

Fuji Film simulations

I don’t currently shoot Fuji (I do lust over their Medium Format Cameras) but for those that do, Capture One have now developed (alongside FujiFilm) the different Film simulations available in their cameras. This means you can add the FujiFilm preset onto your images and use this as a starting point in your editing. Now if only I can get DPS to fund the rental of a a Medium Format Fuji, I can do an in depth test for you all (editor’s note: I wouldn’t mind one myself). Please comment below to help me out. In all seriousness though, this is awesome for all you Fuji Owners.

Mac OSX Mojave support

As a Mac user, this is my biggest pet peeve with Capture One. With the release of version 12, support for version 11 has now ended. This means that if you want to use Capture One with OsX Mojave, you need to upgrade to version 12. Obviously if you pay monthly this isn’t a big problem, but if you own the software outright, the upgrade price of £150 (US$ 195) feels a little steep just to use the latest version of an OS.

Whilst I understand it from a business point of view, it does feel like, as a Mac user, you are forced to upgrade every year. I love that you can purchase Capture One outright, but it does feel like they are slowly creeping towards the subscription model like everybody else. 

Should I upgrade?

The million dollar question. I have upgraded. The plugin support for JPEG mini and intelligent copy paste features will save me enough time to easily justify it. The added benefits of better masking is also great for the way I work. However, it is not that simple for a lot of people. If you are PC based, you may want to skip this version unless, like me, there are features that will help your workflow. However, if you use a Mac, this is more of a do you want to upgrade to Mojave. If the answer is yes, then you really do need to upgrade. There are many reports of version 11 working fine in Mojave, but as a professional, I cannot risk it. Capture One have also ceased their discount codes, which again seems to be a little harsh. You used to be able to easily find a 10% voucher, but since the end of 2018, Capture One seem to have cut them. Obviously I am not privy to why, but I am sure they have their reasons. 

Should I move from Lightroom?

If you are thinking of moving from Lightroom, I would say give it a go. Capture One have a generous 30 day trial of the software, which is time to get to grips with it and see what it can do. Give it a try, you have nothing to lose.

Do you use Capture One? If so, share your thoughts below.

The post Capture One Pro 12 Review – Whats New and Should You Upgrade? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


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Pentax K-1 II Review: Worth the upgrade?

07 May

79%
Overall score

The Pentax K-1 Mark II is a supremely weather-sealed, tough-built full-frame camera with a 36MP stabilized sensor. Billed as more a refinement of its predecessor than a replacement, the K-1 II gains a new hand-held Pixel Shift mode and sees improvements made to its AF Tracking algorithm – it also has a new pre-processor. Unfortunately, our testing reveals this additional processor applies full-time noise reduction to Raw files resulting in inferior image quality to that of its predecessor.

Key features:

  • 36.2MP full-frame CMOS sensor with no anti-aliasing filter
  • 5-axis sensor-shift image stabilization
  • 100% pentaprism viewfinder with 0.70x magnification
  • 33-point AF system (25 cross-type)
  • Updated AF Tracking algorithm
  • New hand-held Pixel Shift mode
  • Extensive weather-sealing
  • 1/200 sec flash sync speed
  • 14-bit Raw recording (DNG or PEF)
  • Built-in GPS with electro-magnetic compass and Astrotracer function
  • 4.4 fps continuous shooting (6.5 fps in APS-C crop mode)
  • 1080/30p video
  • Wi-Fi

The K-1 II faces stiff competition from other full frame models at this price point, many of which out-spec it across the board. But for landscape and adventure shooters, you’d be hard-pressed to find a full frame camera with as many useful and unique features, like built-in GPS, an Astrotracer mode for night sky photography, sensor shift technology, and LED lights on the body (to assist in the dark).

Over the course of several weeks, we’ve put the K-1 II through its paces in both the field and in our test lab. Read on to see how it performed and how it stacks up as a whole against the competition.


What’s new and how it compares

Here’s what’s new in the K-1 II plus how it compares to existing models from other companies.

Read more

Body and design

The K-1 II has a host of unique body features borrowed from its predecessor including its clever articulating LCD mechanism.

Read more

What’s it like to use

From landscapes to portraits, we’ve spent plenty of time shooting with the K-1 II in several different situations.

Read more

Image Quality

Our lab testing reveals the K-1 II’s image quality is actually a step back from that of its predecessor. Will you notice the difference?

Read more

Autofocus

The K-1 II’s 33-point AF system may have limited coverage, but it shows improvements over its predecessor when it comes to tracking.

Read more


Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Six Reasons to Upgrade From Lightroom 6 to Lightroom Classic CC

25 Mar

If you’re a Lightroom 6 user you may be wondering whether it’s time to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC. Yes, it will cost you more to move over to the Lightroom Classic subscription, but you will receive a lot of extras in compensation. Let’s take a look at what they are, so you can decide whether the upgrade is worth it for you or not.

1. The Lightroom Classic CC subscription includes Photoshop CC

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

It’s true that many photographers do all their photo processing in Lightroom without ever moving across to Photoshop. If that’s you, then don’t feel you need to use Photoshop just for the sake of it.

But there are things you can do in Photoshop that you can’t in Lightroom. If you’d like to try any of these, then you’ll need to subscribe to Lightroom Classic CC to access to the latest version, as you can’t buy a standalone version of Photoshop CC.

These are just some of the things you can do in Photoshop that you can’t in Lightroom.

  • Use layers and masking.
  • Advanced portrait retouching.
  • Blend or composite multiple images together.
  • Swap skies or heads (in a group portrait).
  • Use Content-aware fill to remove unwanted items.
  • Make complex selections.
  • Add texture overlays.
  • Add fancy borders.
Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

I used Photoshop to add a texture layer and an interesting border to this still life photo.

2. Lightroom Classic CC lets you synchronize photos to use with the Lightroom CC mobile apps

With Lightroom Classic CC you can synchronize selected Collections and view the photos in those Collections in the Lightroom CC app (formerly known as Lightroom mobile) on a tablet or smartphone. One benefit of this is that you can download the photos to your device so that you can show them to people even when your device is offline.

This makes Lightroom CC a great way to show your portfolio to people while on the go. You can also develop photos in the Lightroom CC app, which may come in handy when you are away from home.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

A Collection of photos in Lightroom Classic CC.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

The same Collection in the Lightroom CC iPad app.

3. Lightroom Classic CC lets you display photos online

There are two ways to display your photos online using Lightroom Classic CC. The first is to make a Collection public – something you can do with any synchronized Collection. When you do this Lightroom generates a URL that you can give to other people so that they can see the photos in the Collection in a browser (also known as Lightroom Web).

This is a good way to share photos with family, friends, and even clients. If the viewer logs in with an Adobe ID they can even favorite photos and add comments.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

This is how the same Collection shown above looks when displayed in a browser.

The other way is to use Adobe Portfolio to build your own portfolio website. I explored this option in more detail in my article How to Create a Beautiful Online Gallery with Lightroom Classic CC and Adobe Portfolio in 15 Minutes.

Adobe Portfolio is the easiest way I know of to turn a synchronized Collection into a website portfolio.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

One of the pages from my Adobe Portfolio-generated website.

4. Lightroom Classic CC is faster than Lightroom 6

The latest upgrades to Lightroom Classic CC means that it runs much faster than Lightroom 6. The exact speed gains depend on your computer setup (for example, you need to have at least 12GB of RAM to take advantage of some of the speed gains in the latest Lightroom Classic CC release).

But there’s no doubt that the process of importing photos and generating previews is much faster in Lightroom Classic CC. If speed is an issue with Lightroom 6, it may be time to upgrade.

5. Lightroom Classic CC has Color Range Masking and Luminance Range Masking

These new tools give you more options when it comes to making selections and applying Radial Filters, Graduated Filters and the Adjustment Brush. They are extremely useful when it comes to making local adjustments. You will need to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC if you’d like to use them.

Lightroom Classic CC upgrade

The Color Range Masking tool in action. I used it here in conjunction with the Adjustment Brush to apply Clarity to the red tin, but no other part of the photo.

6. Lightroom 6 is no longer supported by Adobe

While I’ve tried to emphasize what you will gain by upgrading to Lightroom Classic CC in the rest of the article, there’s no getting away from the fact that Lightroom 6 is no longer supported by Adobe. As a result, new features added to Lightroom Classic CC won’t be available to Lightroom 6 users.

The question you need to ask yourself is how important are the new features, such as Color Range Masking, to you and your workflow?

There’s no need to make an immediate decision. There’s nothing wrong with continuing to use Lightroom 6 for now and upgrading to Lightroom Classic CC in a year or two when the difference between the two is much greater.

You also need to be aware of the effect it will have on your workflow if you buy a new camera whose Raw files aren’t supported by Lightroom 6. In this situation, you can use Adobe’s free DNG Converter to convert the new camera’s Raw files to the DNG format, which can then be read by Lightroom 6. If that is too much of an inconvenience then it may be time to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC.

Conclusion

These are the six main reasons that I can think of that Lightroom 6 users might want to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC. If you’re considering the upgrade then take the time to think through your decision and decide which of these (if any) apply to you.

It’s important to make the right choice because once you upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC it’s extremely difficult to go back to using Lightroom 6. The reason for this is that Lightroom upgrades your Catalog so it’s compatible with Lightroom Classic CC. But the new Catalog format isn’t recognized by Lightroom 6. So make your decision wisely.

Can you think of any other reason why a Lightroom 6 user might want to upgrade to Lightroom Classic CC? Have you already upgraded? Then please let us know your thoughts in the comments below.


Mastering Lightroom ebooks

Want to get a head start with Lightroom? Take a look at my popular Mastering Lightroom ebooks, written to help photographers learn how to use all of Lightroom’s powerful features. Use the code DPS20 to get 20% off your first order.

The post Six Reasons to Upgrade From Lightroom 6 to Lightroom Classic CC by Andrew S. Gibson appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

29 Jan

Gear lust – it’s out there and is bound to bite you sooner or later. Whether photography is a business or a hobby for you, gear lust is a natural part of the consumer cycle. But there is a sane way to approach your desires and check if they are ruling you or you are ruling them. So here are some tips to help you know if you should upgrade or it’s just gear lust.

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

New Photo Equipment Flowchart

Follow this flowchart to see where you land. Only if you end up at a green bubble should you consider upgrading or buying more camera gear.

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust - infographic

Click to view the chart in a new tab or print it out.

Do you shoot for profit?

The first question on the chart is the most defining, “Are you going to make money from this lens?” Whether photography is a hobby or profession for you makes a big difference in the purchase decision. I believe both groups should look at the choice through different eyes, so let’s start down the hobby side of things first.

Skip down to below the hobby section to find the questions for profitable shooters.

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

Hobby: What can’t you currently do with your gear?

If you can’t answer this question truthfully, then you have textbook gear lust. If you answer it and that answer is, “Nothing,” you too have gear lust. That’s not a bad thing! I just want to help you recognize it so you can make your choice with a little more clarity.

But, if there is a technique or style you have tried to replicate over and over again with your current equipment, such as parallel lines in architectural photography or a ten-minute exposure when your camera has no Blub mode, you’re one step closer to justifying an outlay of cash. So let’s take a look at your next question.

Hobby: Should you buy pro equipment?

This question is usually related to lenses but can be adapted to camera bodies, lighting equipment, printers, and more.

If you’re in this photography game for the long haul, it’s in your best interest to purchase higher quality equipment. Lenses specifically will last through a number of camera bodies over the years, while camera bodies tend to make reasonable improvements every 3-5 years.

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

I usually suggest intermediate or pro-quality equipment to anyone who has been using their gear for a couple of years and continually hits the limit for its abilities. Then we need to ask the next critical question…

Hobby: Can you afford it?

If you can’t afford the higher quality equipment, and you can still justify the need to upgrade, I would suggest looking for used equipment in the style you want or possibly renting it for a short-term project. This is an excellent idea for trips abroad, for instance.

If you have come this far and can afford the purchase without going broke, hungry or breaking up a relationship to do so, I say go for it! It might be wise to do a quick cost/benefit analysis (e.g. I’d rather spend $ 1500 on travel than on a new lens). That might point you to a cheaper option to balance the scales, which tends to be a wise choice for hobbies. Or you might find bliss in your Gear Lust (this time) and will revel in the joy of new shooting opportunities.

Profit: Should you get pro equipment?

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

If you are making a profit or looking to do so with your equipment, you’re going to want to look at this decision through money-making glasses. That equipment won’t do you any good if it just sits on a shelf. It needs to be making you money!

To answer the pro equipment question for profit-seekers, let’s look at how this lens will be used. Make no mistake; it’s easy for pros to justify business-related purchases right away when they are really just gear lust in disguise.

Real Life Lesson: I bought a drone on the chance that I’d get a gig where I’d use it heavily. The client ended up canceling the project, but I bought the drone before the contract was signed, because of my gear lust. I made up a reason to justify it when I had no concrete payback schedule. Now I use the drone mostly as a hobby and it dented my pocketbook unnecessarily.

Should you get pro equipment? Let’s ask first if the photos are mission critical.

Profit: Are your photos mission critical?

Relating another analogy from my recent past, I bought a nice Sigma 150-600mm Sport Lens because I recently got into birding. I ‘”needed” (heavy emphasis on the quotes) a longer lens to capture those small or far away birds. That’s bad, expensive gear lust and I didn’t ask myself the “Mission Critical” question.

On the other side of the coin, I also shoot weddings and portraits, so buying a new 24-105mm lens would easily be justified, because the lens will pay for itself over time. Those photos are mission critical and pay my bills. Photos of bird, currently, do not. “Maybe I’ll sell some photos in the future,” is not the best business decision to make and the purchase of said item should be put off until it can be afforded as a hobby.

Profit: Will the equipment increase profits?

These new photos you will take with this new equipment, will those photos increase your profits? Really?

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

Dig deep with this one, because you need to look at this as a business decision. Do you have work lined up that will pay for most, if not all, of the new equipment purchase? If so, skip to the last question. If not, continue.

Profit: Is the new equipment replacing old equipment?

If you’ve answered no this far, this no is your last. It’s gear lust, plain and simple.

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

If you are replacing old gear, the purchase can likely be justified. Especially if you can offload your old equipment or use it as a much-needed backup. But I have one last question for you before you click the “Buy Now” button.

Profit: Can your old equipment be repaired?

I felt gear lust strong and clear when my 28-300mm L lens started having problems. A new one, not all scratched up, would be so nice. Then I asked Canon about fixing it. They said it would cost me $ 300. Once I compared that to the $ 2700 cost of buying a new lens, my decision was clear.

This choice can be made more difficult if the manufacturer has upgraded your camera or lens to a Mark II or III version. If your old equipment is simply aged beyond your capabilities, or it can’t be repaired, it’s time to buy new gear. But if it can be repaired and you can get a few more years of use out of it, then save your profits for expanding your business rather than giving in to gear lust.

Profit: At what photo business stage are you?

You’ve made your way through the chart and are going to buy that new piece of equipment. Congratulations on being clearheaded!

There is one last thing to consider: What stage are you at in your business development?

Beginner

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

If you’re just beginning, I would consider some lower cost options for equipment. This might mean getting a mid-level camera body instead of the $ 8000 pro-version that gear lust is drawing you toward. Spending $ 6500 more than you need to on a camera body won’t make you that much more profit. Investing it in advertising has a better chance of bringing in more clients and hence more profits.

If you have a specific project to shoot for a client and you’re not sure if you’ll use that equipment afterward, renting can be a viable option to keep your profits up.

You’re getting some paid gigs

If the money is coming in steady enough, but it’s not your main source of income yet, then it’s likely a good time to upgrade to better gear. Especially if you have made a case for how you can increase profits or ease workflow (e.g. replacing a 6-year old computer will vastly improve your editing speed and leave more time for finding and shooting new gigs).

Be honest with yourself here. If paid work is sporadic and you can do other types of jobs to make cash, hold off on spending profits until the volume is up and more regular.

Also, I highly suggest upgrading your lenses before your bodies, all things being equal. While getting a new body that has GPS or one extra frame per second in high-speed mode might seem tempting, a faster and sharper lens will improve your end product in a more profitable way.

You make regular income with photography

If the dough is rolling in regularly and you can see the next three years being this way, pull the trigger and buy that new gear. You’re in this for the long-haul and can write off the new equipment as a business expense over its useful life.

Hint: If a new purchase would put your balance sheet far into the red for the year, you’re not making enough regular income.

How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust

Conclusion

Gear lust happens to us all and it can be a struggle. I’ve suffered from it more than once and made bad choices more than once – thus the reason for this flowchart.

I hope it helps you find your way to photo-taking bliss. Remember, that’s why we own all this stuff: to take amazing photos. Don’t let the gear lust pull you away from that goal.

The post How to Know if You Should Upgrade Your Equipment or if You Just Have Gear Lust by Peter West Carey appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Should you upgrade to a Nikon D850?

27 Aug

Should you upgrade to a Nikon D850?

The D850 was just announced, and by all accounts it’s shaping up to be a very impressive camera. Depending on what kind of photography you prefer, the D850 might be a useful upgrade to a current Nikon DSLR, and a compelling alternative for someone looking to switch from a rival system.

In this article, I’m going to imagine that you’re interested in the D850, and considering it to replace or sit alongside your current camera. For the sake of maintaining focus on spec and performance, I’m also going to assume that you’re fine spending $ 3300, plus another $ 900 or so for the optional grip and a D5 battery + charger, if you want to take the D850 up to 9 fps. Where money is mentioned at all, it’s mostly where the D850 costs substantially more than the camera you might be considering upgrading or switching from.

Mostly I’ll be focusing on how the D850 stacks up against other current and previous-generation Nikon DSLRs, but I’ve added three slides at the end of this article, giving a basic picture of how it compares against competitive full-frame cameras from Canon, Ricoh and Sony.

Should you upgrade from a D810? Maybe.

Let’s start with perhaps the most obvious question – is the D850 enough of an upgrade to justify replacing its predecessor, the D810 (shown on the left, above)? The answer, predictably, is ‘maybe’.

On the one hand, while the changes from the D800/e to the D810 were relatively minor, the D850 has been substantially updated across the board. On the other, the D810 is still a great camera, and for some kinds of photography, the D850’s extra features might reasonably be considered ‘nice to have’, but not essential.

Even if you mostly shoot static subjects with your D810, the D850 still has a lot to offer

Obviously the D850 offers greater resolution and a major speed increase, but more important (we think) is the completely overhauled AF system, which should provide class-leading autofocus on a par with the D5 and D500 – as well as inheriting those cameras’ automatic AF fine-tuning feature. AF sensitivity down to -3EV is a major improvement over the D810 which (for reasons we could never really figure out) was pretty unreliable in poor light.

And even if you mostly shoot static subjects with your D810, the D850 still has a lot to offer. Ergonomically, the new camera is much improved. A tilting, touch-sensitive rear LCD is really handy for tripod-mounted photography, and illuminated controls are a game-changer for astrophotography and landscape shooting in low light. The D850 is more comfortable to hold, too.

Just about the only use-case where the D850 might not represent a useful upgrade to a D810 is for tethered studio shooting, where you don’t need things like autofocus or continuous shooting. But even here, the D850’s tilting rear screen might end up being very handy.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • More resolution
  • Greater speed
  • Better autofocus, including superior low-light sensitivity
  • Improved ergonomics
  • Illuminated controls
  • Tilting, touch-sensitive screen
  • 4K video

Stick with your D810 if:

  • You mostly shoot in a studio
  • You really need a built-in flash

Should you upgrade from a D800/E? Yes.

If you skipped the D810 and still shoot with a D800 or D800E, the choice is easier. There isn’t a single use case that I can think of where the D850 won’t substantially outperform your camera, or at least make your life easier as a photographer.

the 4K-capable D850 is a much more attractive option for occasional video work

If you shoot landscapes, you’ll get better base ISO dynamic range, less risk of mirror and shutter-induced vibration ruining your shot, and greater resolution. You’ll also appreciate the backlit controls and a tilting screen. If you shoot portraits and events, the D850 will probably prove more comfortable to use, as well as offering a much improved AF system with greater coverage and an automatic fine-tuning capability. The 4K-capable D850 is also a much more attractive option for occasional video work, if required.

For sports or wildlife photography the D850’s wider, better autofocus system should take your photography to another level, and the deeper buffer and maximum continuous shooting rate of up to 9 fps (with optional grip and battery) is a nice upgrade over the five year-old D800/E, too.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • More resolution
  • Better Raw dynamic range (at ISO 64)
  • Greater speed
  • Better autofocus
  • Less risk of mirror/shutter vibration
  • Improved ergonomics
  • Illuminated controls
  • 4K video.

Stick with your D800/E if:

  • You mostly shoot in a studio
  • You really need a built-in flash

Should you upgrade from a D750? Maybe.

The Nikon D750 is a fine camera, and despite its age (knocking on for three years now) it remains the DSLR that we probably recommend most, to anyone looking to upgrade to full-frame. Partly this is because it offers excellent performance and a solid feature set in an impressively small form-factor, but also because over the past couple of years it’s price has dropped to a level where it’s simply one of the best value DSLRs on the market.

The D850 is a lot more camera than the D750, but it also costs a lot more money. If you have the cash though, the D850 is a solid upgrade. One obvious benefit is resolution. Where the D750 features a 24MP sensor, the D850 basically doubles the pixel-count, which should equate to a substantial increase in effective resolution (provided your lenses are up to the challenge). At ISO 64, the D850’s Raw dynamic range will probably be considerably better, too, which can be very useful for several different use-cases.

Despite its larger file sizes, the D850 is a faster, more powerful camera than the D750

Despite its larger file sizes, the D850 is a faster, more powerful camera than the D750. Its autofocus system should be roughly on a par with the flagship D5 (which really means that it should be better than anything else on the market, when it comes to tracking) and while straight out of the box, the D850’s continuous shooting rate of 7 fps is similar to the D750, adding the optional grip and higher-capacity battery takes it up to 9 fps. The D750 (shown above, with and without its own optional grip) maxes out at 6.5fps regardless of configuration.

That extra speed doesn’t come cheap, though. If you don’t have a bunch of cash to throw around, the D750 is likely to remain pretty competitive for a while yet and except for some niche use-cases (like astrophotography) it should serve you well.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • Significantly greater resolution
  • Greater speed (with the grip + D5 battery)
  • Better autofocus
  • Better Raw dynamic range (at ISO 64)
  • Touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • Illuminated controls
  • Better weather-sealing
  • 4K video

Stick with your D750 if:

  • You don’t shoot fast action
  • You don’t shoot in low light
  • You don’t need the extra resolution
  • You really need a built-in flash

Should you upgrade from a D700? Definitely.

So you’re still rocking a D700? Good for you. There’s nothing wrong with that – the D700 was and remains a very capable camera. But after almost ten years, it has been bettered by several subsequent Nikon DSLRs, in several respects. Comparing the D700 to the D850 is like comparing an Apple II to a MacBook Pro. As nostalgic as I am for the older technology, if I had a job to do, I know which tool I’d rather use.

Stop reading and order a D850 now

So – assuming you have the funds, you should stop reading and order a D850 now. Just do it. Why are you still reading? Go!

I’d recommend keeping your D700 as a backup, though. And that’s not just me being sentimental – these days, it might not be worth enough when traded in to make much of a difference to the upgrade cost.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • All of the reasons

Stick with your D700 if:

  • Your lucky number is 7

Should you upgrade from a D500? Probably not.

If you’re currently shooting with a D500, the question of whether you should upgrade to the D850 is a bit more complicated. Because they’re such different cameras, on balance I wouldn’t recommend replacing a D500 with a D850. But if you have the cash, the D850 would make an excellent companion to a D500, fulfilling a slightly different set of requirements.

The 20MP D500 is a high-speed, relatively low-resolution DSLR, with a very wide AF area. This makes it ideal for shooting sports and wildlife, where its 1.5X crop factor can be extremely useful. It’s weather-sealed, and offers many of the same ergonomic refinements that make the D850 a more pleasant camera to use than previous-generation D800-series DSLRs.

The D850 offers substantially greater resolution, a nice bump in Raw dynamic range, and a feature set better suited to landscape and studio work

The D850 on the other hand offers substantially greater resolution, what’s likely to be a nice bump in Raw dynamic range at ISO 64, and a feature set better suited to landscape and studio work, as well as portraiture and astrophotography. The D850 can also shoot 4K video without a crop, making it more useful for occasional video work than the D500, too.

The only caveat here is that if you’ve built up a collection of DX format lenses for your D500, you’ll need to drop even more cash on some full-frame zooms or primes for the D850. Hopefully though, Nikon’s conspicuously-crummy DX-format lens lineup has already prompted you to invest in full-frame glass.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • Greater resolution
  • Greater dynamic range
  • 4K video with no crop

Stick with your D500 if:

  • You mostly shoot sports / wildlife (or anything where the 1.5X crop and greater AF coverage is handy)
  • You don’t have any full-frame lenses

Should you upgrade from a D4/S? Probably.

If you’re shooting with a D4, or D4S, there are very few reasons why the D850 would do the same, or a better job for you than your existing camera. Arguably, the only significant point in the D4/S’s favor at this point is durability. The D800-series are tough, solid cameras but they’re not built to withstand the same kind of abuse as Nikon’s flagship pro sports models.

And… that’s about it.

The value of the D4/Ss 11 fps continuous shooting is somewhat moot when you consider that the D850 can manage 9 fps with a couple of (admittedly expensive) accessories, and the additional stamina of the D4/S’s larger battery is unlikely to prove a to be a deal-breaker for most photographers. The D4/S offers a Gigabit Ethernet port, but outside of shooting in a major sports stadium, that’s not a feature that most of us are ever likely to need.

At 7-9 fps the D850’s huge files will rip through memory cards, so it’s not a camera you want to take to the Olympic Games

Then there’s resolution. The D4/S are built for working photojournalists that need speed, durability and versatility. And part of ‘versatility’ in this context is a relatively low pixel count of 16MP, which while big enough for print and online media, isn’t so big that file sizes become an issue when shooting at high frame rates for extended periods of time, or wiring images back to a picture desk. At 7-9 fps the D850’s huge files will rip through memory cards, so it’s probably not a camera you want to take to the Olympic Games. But at 45MP, those files are much more versatile for general use.

When you consider that the D850 also features a next-generation autofocus system, more versatile rear LCD and 4K video capture, it really does look like a solid upgrade over a D4/S. And of course without the optional grip it’s considerably smaller and lighter, too.

Reasons to upgrade:

  • Greater resolution
  • Better Raw dynamic range
  • Better autofocus system
  • Tilting, touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • Smaller and lighter body
  • 4K video

Stick with your D4/S if:

  • You need the ultimate in durability and stamina
  • You use a specific pro-oriented feature (i.e, wired Gigabit Ethernet)

Should you switch systems and buy a D850?

I’m not going to attempt to comprehensively answer this question because a) it’s unanswerable, and b) I get enough hate-mail already. But whenever one of the major manufacturers brings out a new flagship model, it is reasonable (and if nothing else – interesting) to consider how well it stacks up against competitive models. So here goes…

Compared to the Sony a7R II

Compared to Sony’s a7R II, the D850 is likely to be superior as a strictly stills camera. It’s tougher, offers vastly better battery life, slightly higher resolution, probably better dynamic range at base ISO, and ergonomically it’s more refined. While it lacks in-camera stabilization, features like illuminated controls and touch-sensitivity are the kind of little extras that will, I suspect, end up being hugely appreciated by some photographers.

For a stills-oriented user the D850 is probably the smarter option

The a7R II is a superior video camera, and as such a better hybrid camera, but for a stills-oriented user the D850 is probably the smarter option. I don’t want to get too deep into the thorny question of lenses, but it’s also worth considering that while Sony’s E-mount is relatively new, the D850 is fully compatible with a huge number of high-quality AF and manual focus lenses, going back decades.

The newer Sony a9 is more competitive when it comes to core stills photography performance, but of course at a much lower resolution.

Points in the D850’s favor:

  • (Slightly) higher resolution
  • Wider dynamic range (at ISO 64)
  • Tougher, more durable build
  • Touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • Illuminated controls
  • Much better battery life
  • Wider range of compatible lenses

Points in the a7R II’s favor:

  • Better video specification
  • In-camera image stabilization
  • On-sensor PDAF in live view and movie modes
  • Smaller, lighter body

Compared to the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV

Compared to the Canon EOS 5D Mark IV, the D850 is likely to be superior in almost every measurable respect, as both a stills and video capture device. It is faster, offers greater resolution, wider Raw dynamic range, probably better high ISO image quality, a much better autofocus system, more versatile ergonomics, and a more practical 4K video capture option (as well as focus peaking for HD video capture).

The EOS 5D IV offers Canon’s peerless Dual Pixel autofocus in live view and movie modes, which is a major advantage

But I did say almost every respect. Importantly, the EOS 5D IV offers Canon’s peerless Dual Pixel autofocus in live view and movie modes, which is a major advantage over the Nikon and makes it a much more usable camera in some situations. The D850’s live view AF is clumsy by comparison.

I’d also note the fact that Canon is on a roll with its current high-end zoom lenses. Newer L-series zooms, like the EF 11-24mm F4, EF 16-35mm F2.8 III and 24-70mm F2.8 II are truly excellent. Nikon’s equivalent wide zoom options aren’t quite as good (and in the case of the 14-24mm F2.8 just plain old) by comparison. Less quantifiable but still worth noting is that many photographers simply prefer Canon’s control interface.

Points in D850’s favor:

  • Greater resolution
  • Wider dynamic range
  • Better autofocus
  • Faster continous shooting
  • Tilting rear LCD
  • Full-frame 4K

Points in 5D Mark IV’s favor:

  • Dual Pixel autofocus in live view and video
  • (Arguably) more user-friendly user interface

Compared to the Ricoh Pentax K-1

I said earlier that I didn’t want to get any hate-mail, and with that in mind, I would be a fool not to mention the perennial ‘don’t forget the…’ camera of our age: the Ricoh Pentax K-1.

In terms of image quality, the K-1’s 36MP sensor is basically on a level with the original D800/E, and while perfectly usable for static subjects, when the going gets tough, its autofocus system can’t compete with any recent generation of Nikon’s wide-area AF arrays in its high-end APS-C or full-frame cameras. Oh, and it can’t shoot 4K video either. As such, for most applications it lags behind the D850 as both as a stills and video platform.

The K-1’s feature set been very nicely tweaked to suit the needs of landscape and outdoor photographers

Where the K-1 shines is weather-sealing (always a Pentax strength), built-in image stabilization, and an interface and feature set that have been very nicely tweaked to suit the specific needs of landscape and outdoor photographers. Its multi-angle articulating screen and illuminated controls are really handy, likewise built-in GPS, and various sensor-shifting modes that are available to increase color resolution, simulate the effect of an AA filter, keep your horizons level, and to track stars. Oh, and it’s much cheaper, too.

Points in D850’s favor:

  • Greater resolution
  • Wider dynamic range
  • Better autofocus
  • Faster continuous shooting
  • Touch-sensitive rear LCD
  • 4K movie capture
  • Greater number of (modern) lens options

Points in K-1’s favor:

  • In-camera stabilization
  • Various clever sensor-shift modes
  • Built-in GPS
  • Multi-angle rear LCD
  • It’s cheaper

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon EOS 80D to EOS 6D Mark II: in the light of the review, should I upgrade?

14 Aug

Is it worth upgrading my EOS 80D to the EOS 6D Mark II?

We already had a simple look at how good an upgrade the EOS 6D II makes for 80D owners, based on our early impressions of the camera. Now we’ve had a chance to spend more time with it (and to go back and shoot with the 80D again), we thought we’d look at the differences and benefits in more detail.

We’re going to try not to make too many assumptions about what you shoot with your 80D and what you value in a camera, beyond assuming that you kinda like your current camera, that you enjoy using a camera that works broadly as well in live view mode as it does through the viewfinder and that you’d like something fairly similar but, you know, better. Will the 6D II do that for you?

Image quality improvements

The 6D II’s larger sensor means it receives more total light than the 80D, when shot with the same exposure settings (the same light per unit area, but with more capture area). This generally means the 6D II will offer better image quality than the 80D. As much as anything else, this tends to be what prompts most people to move to larger sensor formats.

However, you don’t get the full advantage that you’d get if the 6D II simply used a scaled-up version of the 80D’s sensor, so how much of a step up does the 6D end up being?

The sensor size difference means you can get shallower depth-of-field more readily than you could on the 80D. Indeed, shoot the same scene from the same position and at the same f-number and you’ll get shallower depth of field. For certain types of photos, shallow depth of field is interpreted as better.

The 6D II’s larger sensor also means you get better performance in low light. If you regularly shoot above about ISO 1600, the 6D II will give you an immediate improvement in image quality, simply because it gets more light.

Image quality concerns

The more sophisticated design of the 80D’s sensor means it adds less noise to its images than its big brother. This means that, at low ISO settings, the 80D will produce more flexible Raw files, that make it easier to represent the detail in high-contrast scenes, before you hit the noise floor. If you’ve become used to exploiting the 80D’s pretty impressive dynamic range, it may be a bit of a shock to find you end up with more prominent noise if you try to manipulate an image shot in high-DR circumstances, such as sunsets or backlit subjects.

That said, we’re aware that a great many people primarily shoot JPEG. Since the differences in performance between the two cameras’ sensors tends to occur in very dark tones within the image, so may well be either too dark to perceive or clipped entirely to black if you’re only looking at JPEG images. Even engaging Auto Lighting Optimizer or Highlight Tone Priority – the camera’s two DR compression modes that risk pulling noise into the image – isn’t a problem (though it’s interesting you can’t use the two in conjunction). However, you don’t get the noise improvement at low ISO you might reasonably expect from the move to full-frame.

Viewfinder differences

The 6D II has a viewfinder with 98% coverage and 0.71x magnification, while the 80D has 100% coverage and 0.94x magnification. Yet that’s not the clear win to the 80D that it might seem.

Since both magnification figures are measured using a 50mm lens, the 80D’s figure benefits from its 1.6x crop factor. Compare them on a normalized basis and the 6D II’s 0.71x magnification looks pretty good compared with 0.59x. And, sure enough, in use the 6D II’s viewfinder is appreciably bigger. It’s one of the benefits that a full frame DSLR offers over a cropped sensor that is often overlooked, especially by anyone too young to have regularly shot film and become accustomed to a large finder. It’s lovely to shoot through a nice, big viewfinder and the 6D II’s is a significant step up from the 80D’s.

It’s not all good news, though. The 80D’s 100% finder means its easier to construct precise compositions. Knowing exactly where the corners are is hugely valuable for ensuring lead-in lines run directly from the corner of the frame, for instance (the 6D II’s 98% coverage should be enough that you don’t have to worry too much about stray objects intruding in your shots).

Autofocus

The camera uses essentially the same AF module as the 80D. This means the spread of AF points is considerably less extensive on the larger camera. This means that, unlike the 80D, you don’t get AF points on the ‘thirds’ lines of your image: the outer columns of points reach a little beyond the thirds horizontally, but they don’t quite reach the vertical thirds lines. This isn’t an unworkable situation, of course: the parallax error of focus-and-recompose isn’t going to be significant over such a small distance, but it’ll take some getting used to, after the 80D’s wider spread.

In terms of autofocus performance, we doubt you’ll notice any great difference. Both cameras performed fairly similarly in our testing. The EOS 6D II isn’t terrible at tracking a subject but it’s not great, either. If you’ve found settings or a way of working that suits the kind of shooting you like to do, you can carry this over to the 6D II.

Like the 80D, the 6D II’s tracking in live view mode is pretty good, especially if you’re shooting single images at a time. It’s in continuous (servo) mode that the performance drops significantly compared with the 80D, in terms of accuracy (in Continuous H mode) or a much slower frame rate (in Continuous L). So not really an upgrade, but broadly consistent with the system you’ve already learned and adapted to.

Difference in features

The EOS 6D II has Canon’s latest, Digic 7 processor, but the differences between this and the older chip used in the 80D are subtle. There don’t appear to be any additional functions associated with the newer processor but Canon has talked about using the additional processing power to run more sophisticated algorithms that prevent the camera’s AF tracking from being distracted by other potential targets.

Another underlying hardware difference is in the two camera’s Wi-Fi connectivity. The 80D has a fairly conventional Wi-Fi setup, with the option to use NFC to speed-up pairing to your smartphone, if its manufacturer allows such frivolity. The updated implementation in the 6D II is a step forward, in that it allows a constant Bluetooth connection to be maintained between your phone and the camera. Again, the degree to which this simplifies life depends at least in part on what brand of phone you’re using, but it does make image transfer very straightforward.

The EOS 6D II also offers GPS, which the 80D doesn’t. This may not sound like something you’ll need but, even if you’re not an especially frequent traveler but, if you switch it on, it means every one of your images gains a useful additional piece of metadata that can be valuable in terms of organizing and retrieving your files, after you’ve shot them. Battery life does take a hit when using the GPS, however.

Other feature aspects

While the similarity of body shape and button layouts make it clear they’re aimed at similar photographers, there are a few differences that reflect the 80D’s position higher up the APS-C lineup than the 6D II’s position, relative to Canon’s other full-frame options.

The 80D gets a shutter mechanism that can fire as fast as 1/8000th of a second and can sync with flashes as fast as 1/250th of a second. With a larger distance to travel and perhaps some money being saved, the 6D II can only shoot at up to 1/4000th of a second and flash sync at 1/180th. These may sound like small differences but you may well notice them if you use fill flash or wide aperture lenses outdoors.

Other differences include the 80D having a headphone socket for audio monitoring during video shooting: something 6D II users will have to live without. It’s not quite clear why Canon chose not to include it or the less-compressed ‘All-I’ video option, both of which might be a frustration if you’ve been enjoying the 80D’s easy-to-shoot video.

But what about lenses?

The usefulness of lenses, vs simple compatibility is a subject I can be something of a stuck record about, but I do believe it’s something worth thinking about very hard before you upgrade. Don’t think about how many of your existing lenses will be usable, think about how many of them will perform roles that you actually need. At least take stock of how committed you really are to a system before concluding that you can only look within your current system.

Before I started at DPReview, I owned an APS-C DSLR, a mid-level kit zoom, a 50mm F1.8, and a third-party 70-200mm F2.8 (bought secondhand from a DPR forum member). How committed to ‘my’ brand was I?

The kit zoom is a write-off straight away, so I may as well try to sell that along with my old APS-C body. Having got used to using it as a 75mm equiv lens, do I suddenly need the 50mm field-of-view? Maybe, but it’s a cheap-enough lens that it’s not a deciding factor. The 70-200mm F2.8 was secondhand anyway, so I can probably recoup much of what I’ve paid for it if I sold it.

If it’d come down to it, it was a couple of spare batteries and the time I’d spent learning the quirks of my camera’s interface and behavior that was really holding me to that brand, not my ‘investment’ in lenses.

Should I upgrade?

Ultimately, that’s something only you can decide, we’re just trying to lay out what we see as the key factors you might want to consider.

We should be clear: the EOD 6D II isn’t a bad camera. In many respects, it’s a perfectly good one: certainly one that’s pretty enjoyable to shoot with. Although Dual Pixel AF really shines when shooting video, it’s still useful for stills shooters, providing what’s still the best and most usable live view experience of any of the DSLR makers.

If you enjoy your 80D, then you’ll probably like the 6D II for many of the same reasons (with the added bonus of more control over depth of field, better low light image quality and a bigger viewfinder).

The only real reason we’ve devoted so much space to addressing the question is because, with the 6D II, Canon has made the decision slightly less clear-cut than it’d normally be. You don’t get a significant improvement in AF performance, nor do you get the all-round improvement in image quality that the cost of moving to full-frame usually brings. But there certainly are advantages, and ones that you might find beneficial.

If you’re and 80D owner who’s decided to move to the 6D II or have decided not to, let us know what swung the decision for you.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nikon D7500: Should I upgrade from my D7200?

17 Apr

D7500 vs D7200

The D7500 is Nikon’s latest enthusiast DSLR that gains a handful of components and refinements from the higher-end D500. However, it’s also a model that loses a couple of features in order to leave a more decisive gap between the two models.

So where does that leave existing D7200 owners? It’s fairly unusual for successive models to offer enough of a change to provide a significant upgrade, so does the D7500 do that? For that matter, should would-be buyers try to pick up the last of the D7200s, while they’re cheap?

Image quality

For all the hoopla about better image quality, we’ve seen little significant difference between this 20MP chip (when it appeared in the D500) compared with the 24MP sensor in the D7200. The differences that do exist become visible in side-by-side comparison at extremely high ISO settings, but don’t expect a significant uptick in noise or dynamic range performance in return for the slight cut in resolution.

The D7500’s highest native ISO rises by 1EV and its extension settings keep going to a dizzying Hi 5, which is equivalent to ISO 1.6 million (I’m not going to speculate about how Nikon’s engineers celebrated when they achieved this milestone), but the main benefits of this chip appear to be readout speed, rather than significant differences in image quality.

Autofocus improvements

For us, one of the most significant factors will be how closely the D7500 can match the D500’s autofocus. It gains the much higher resolution metering sensor used for subject tracking, along with nominally the same processing (though Nikon’s Expeed naming system doesn’t necessarily mean they have the same chip).

However, the D7500 doesn’t gain the AF module from the D500, which means it can only offer 51 AF points (15 of which are cross-type), rather than 153 points, 99 of which are cross-type. This also means it misses out on the incredibly broad AF coverage that the D500 offers.

Even so, the processing and meter module should ensure the autofocus and, in particular, the subject tracking, works better than the already rather good D7200. It remains to be seen whether it can match the uncannily good performance of the D500.

Autofocus auto fine-tune

One of the nice features to make its way down to the D7500 is the Auto AF fine-tune system. This allows you to set the focus precisely in live view such that the camera can then check this against the results of its separate phase detection AF module. Any difference is captured as a correction value.

This is a useful addition since it allows the user of the camera to calibrate their lenses without the considerable degree of trial and error required with the D7200’s AF fine-tune system (which essentially required that you guess and check a correction value).

The autofocus fine-tune system isn’t a panacea: it applies a single correction value for all focus points, so will not necessarily improve the performance of off-center focus points, which tend to be less reliable, particularly with lenses that exhibit spherical aberration.

High-speed shooting

Obviously the biggest change with the D7500 is the move from six frame per second to eight frame per second shooting. This isn’t a match for the D500’s 10 fps shooting but it’s likely to be enough for a lot of people. Hell, this is around the level of performance that the world’s best sports shooters used around 2005.

As well as 8 fps shooting, the D7500 has a buffer nearly three times deeper than the D7200’s. 50 uncompressed 14-bit Raws in a burst is likely to be enough for all but the most demanding action shooters.

4K Video

The D7500 brings 4K UHD video recording and, assuming it looks like the D500’s output, it’s pretty good. It’s taken from a 1.5x crop of the sensor, meaning it’s using sub-Four Thirds sized sensor region, which means you won’t get the ‘Super 35’ style noise or depth-of-field characteristics that other APS-C cameras can offer. The significant crop also means your lenses will offer a significantly less wide field of view when shooting. A standard Nikon 18-something DX zoom will start at a fairly restrictive 40mm equivalent field of view.

Just as significantly as the addition of 4K is the gain of power aperture, which means you can change aperture in live view mode on the D7500. On the 7200 it’s a dance of dropping out of live view, changing the aperture and then jumping back in again, with no way at all to change it once you’ve hit REC.

Backwards compatibility takes a step backwards

The D7500 also loses a little in the way of backwards compatibility. Nikon has tried to keep its F mount as backwards compatible as possible, even as it’s added more modern features. The D7X00 series has, for some time now, been the lowest level of Nikon to retain a screw drive for older AF-D lenses but the D7500 sees another small element of compatibility chipped away. Specifically, the tab that checks what aperture old ‘AI’ lenses are set to (pictured, center) has been removed, meaning the camera can only use manual exposure mode with these lenses, with no aperture priority option.

For most users, this is likely to be irrelevant (manual focusing using the viewfinder focusing screen of a DX DSLR isn’t the most life affirming process), but it does mean anyone with an older lens collection will need to think about the D500 as their next step, and it’ll be another factor to consider when scouring eBay.

SnapBridge

The D7500 gains the SnapBridge system that uses a constant Bluetooth LE connection to auto-transfer 2MP images or keep the hailing frequencies open for when you want to use Wi-Fi.

We remain unconvinced by SnapBridge, especially in terms of what it offers the higher-end, more shutter-button-happy user, but it’s not necessarily worse than the D7200’s system. That may sound like damning with faint praise but, until Nikon develops more distinct ways of using SnapBridge, we feel it’s better suited to the D5600 user than it is to the more demanding enthusiast user of the D7500.

Still, the D7500 does gain a batch in-camera Raw conversion system, which we’re hoping will work well in conjunction with SnapBridge to provide an effective Raw + Wi-Fi workflow. Time will tell.

Flip-up touchscreen

The D7500 gains a flip-up/down touchscreen. The flip screen is likely to be handy for video shooting but, with underwhelming video autofocus and no sign of the D5600’s ability to use the rear panel as an AF point touchpad, we don’t think the touch sensitivity of the screen is less exciting. Sure, the D5600’s touchpad implementation only really worked for photographers who put their right eye to the viewfinder, but that at least made it a major benefit for those users.

The LCD panel itself has also changed, but don’t read too much into the lower dot count. The new panel may only be 922k dots, rather than 1.2 million, but the difference is that there is no longer a white ‘dot’ making up each pixel: they’re both displaying 640 x 480 pixels.

Battery life/battery type

The D7500’s battery life rating has fallen 15%, compared with the D7200, presumably as a result of the demands of the faster processor and possibly less energy-efficient screen.

It uses a new version of the EN-EL15 battery called the EN-EL15a. Other than coming in a lighter grey plastic case, Nikon was unable to give specifics about what’s changed. Our assumption is that it’s just Nikon making it easier to distinguish between the newest versions of the EN-EL15 and the older ones which don’t seem to get on with its newest cameras.

However, this is where you see another attempt to put more clear water between the D7500 and the D500: the 7500 no longer has a port for connecting to a battery grip. So you’ll need to stick with your D7200 or jump to the D500 if you regularly shoot beyond the capacity of a single battery or appreciate the improved ergonomics for portrait orientation shooting.

Is this really the D7200 replacement?

Yes. Absolutely.

While it’s true that the D7500 isn’t a step up from the D7200 in every last respect, it follows the D7X00 pattern in every way that matters. Twin dials, screw drive, large prism viewfinder and comparable price point. Nikon will, naturally, say that the D7200 and D7500 will sit alongside one another, but that’s what manufacturers say to avoid devaluing any stock left in retail channels.

However, it’s important to bear in mind that when the D7200 was launched, it sat at the top of Nikon’s DX lineup, whereas the D7500 has to slot in beneath the D500. Inevitably that means some users will be better served by stepping up a tier, but we don’t think it’ll inconvenience a significant number of users. 64, 128 or 256GB cards offer plenty of capacity and card errors are rare enough that a second card slot isn’t a vital feature. The D7500 is still a camera that shoots faster and for longer, and can capture better video than its predecessor, so it’s not like Nikon’s evil marketing department has left would-be D7X00 users out in the cold.

Should I upgrade?

To a large extent, the degree to which we’d recommend upgrading from the D7200 to the D7500 will depend on how its new AF system performs. If you’ve already been thinking about a camera with faster performance, though, then take a look at our D500 vs D7500 comparison: the D500 will give you a bigger performance boost.

If your needs are less action driven, it’s a much harder call and, unless the AF performance turns out to be great, the answer has to be that it’s probably not worth it. However, if you own a D7000 or even a D7100 that’s starting to show its age, the D7500 offers a host of benefits, not least better dynamic range, faster shooting and a much deeper buffer.

Overall, then the D7500 isn’t better than the D7200 in every respect, but it’s at least a little better in most of the ways that will matter to most people. But, while the last of the D7200s are available at end-of-life prices, it’s worth thinking about how much the extra features are worth, to you.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Cactus announces flash transceiver firmware upgrade to support wireless cross-brand TTL

25 Mar

Cactus has announced a series of brand-specific firmware updates for its V6 II and V6 IIs triggers that will add TTL functions alongside their cross-brand HSS support.

The triggers are already capable of high speed sync across systems, as well as remote control over flash power and zoom. The upcoming firmware updates will add the ability to support automatic TTL exposure across brands as well. The first firmware releases will support Sigma, Fujifilm and Sony, with support for Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Panasonic and Pentax following one-by-one.

For more information on the Cactus V6 II triggers and compatible flashes check out the company’s website, and for more information on the upcoming firmware releases, see the press release below.


Press Release:

X-TTL TTL without Boundaries! Cactus launches FREE firmware upgrades on the V6 II and V6 IIs to support wireless cross-brand TTL.

Hong Kong, March 24, 24, 2017 – Just nine months since the release of the Cactus V6 II and Cactus V6 IIs, Cactus is now launching a series of brand-specific firmware upgrades to transform the cross-brand HSS flash triggers to one that also supports crosscross-brand wireless TTL. The new X-TTL firmware versions, apart from supporting cross-brand high-speed sync (HSS/FP), remote power and zoom control of Canon, Fujifilm, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax and Sigma flashes all at the same time1, NOW support automatic TTL exposure in the same cross-brand environment, both on-camera and off-camera.2

The first wave of firmware releases will be for Sigma Sony and Fujifilm. Other camera systems, Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic and Pentax, will follow one by one as we complete system integration on the V6 II. All these X-TTL firmware versions are free of charge for V6 II / V6 IIs users. The new firmware is system-specific so users simply choose the corresponding system when updating with the Cactus Firmware Updater. Once installed, the V6 II / V6 IIs is transformed into a cross-brand wireless TTL flash trigger.

This unique function gives photographers an unprecedented flexibility. The need for matching flashes with the same camera system for on and off-camera TTL flash photography is over – TTL without boundaries.

Cross-brand TTL

The X-TTL firmware allows users to have wireless TTL automatic exposure with camera and flash that runs on the same system, such as a Canon camera triggering a Canon flash, and one that runs on different systems, such as a Sigma camera triggering a Nikon system flash.

Similar to the cross-brand HSS firmware on the V6 II, the supported flash systems for wireless cross-brand TTL include Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, and flash that runs on the same camera system.

Two unique Exposure Locks

Cactus is unveiling a brand new approach in using TTL metering. Over the past, professionals who love the convenience from TTL metering often have to suffer inconsistency in lighting outputs, making post processing a pain. In view of this Cactus devised two types of Exposure Locks.

1. Flash Compensate: Store a desired flash exposure that will automatically adjust according to changes in camera settings. Gone is the ever-changing flash exposures between each TTL metering.

2. Flash Power Lock: Lock flash power output after a desired TTL exposure is achieved. Perfect for consistency in repeat shooting. Wireless TTL functions

The X-TTL firmware will also support advanced TTL functions on the Cactus V6 II and V6 IIs, such as first and second (rear) curtain sync, on-camera TTL, group TTL metering and TTL lighting ratios3.

New support for Sigma

We are delighted to offer firmware support for Sigma cameras and flashes. This includes remote power control, remote zoom control, wireless High-speed Sync, and wireless TTL with Sigma’s SA-TTL flashes. The same cross-brand support is also available on the Sigma X-TTL firmware. Cactus expresses appreciation to SIGMA CORPORATION for their immense support in our development for Sigma system firmware.

Fujifilm TTL and HSS

With the introduction of Fujifilm new flash system launched on the EF-X500, Highspeed Sync (HSS/FP) is finally available. Besides adopting the new HSS platform, the upcoming Fujifilm X-TTL firmware also extends support for wireless TTL to Fujifilm flashes as well as Canon, Nikon, Olympus, and Panasonic flashes. Fujifilm X-TTL Firmware release date will be announced on our website.

V6 IIs with Sony TTL

Existing Sony V6 IIs users already has a system-specific transceiver unit, and the upcoming Sony X-TTL firmware adds wireless TTL support for Sony flashes and other system flashes when paired with the Cactus V6 II. Sony X-TTL Firmware release date will be announced on our website.

Features at a glance

1. Cross-brand wireless manual power and zoom control with HSS/FP support of Canon, Fujifilm, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax and Sony flashes;2

2. Cross-brand wireless TTL of Canon, Fujifilm, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax, Sigma and Sony flashes;2

3. Cross-brand group TTL metering is extended to use in a cross-brand setup;3

4. TTL Ratios output adjustments can be done directly on the V6 II (TX);3

5. Two Exposure Locks offer consistency with the convenience of wireless TTL.

6. Works seamlessly with Cactus RF60X to support HSS, TTL, remote power and zoom control.

Price and Availability

System-specific X-TTL firmware versions are free of charge. Download the Cactus Firmware Updater4 and select the corresponding system firmware to install the X-TTL firmware on the Cactus V6 II and V6 IIs.

After launching the initial three systems, i.e., Sigma, Fujifilm and Sony, Cactus will continue to launch X-TTL firmware for the remaining camera systems. Stay up to date for the latest releases on X-TTL’s microsite: https://www.cactusimage.com/special/X-TTL/

1 With the exception of Pentax and Sony system flashes due to special timing requirements so they must be paired with a Pentax and Sony camera respectively in order to support HSS.

2 Only Canon, Nikon, Olympus and Panasonic system flashes support cross-brand TTL.

3 This function may not be supported on all the camera systems.

4 Cactus Firmware Updater version 3.01 or later will better facilitate firmware selection. To be released soon!

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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When is the Right Time to Upgrade Camera Gear?

21 Jan

Knowing when to upgrade camera gear can be a little tricky. Picking the right time to upgrade is about knowing who you are as a photographer, and who you want to become.

When is the Right Time to Upgrade Your Camera Gear?

What makes upgrading tricky is the pace at which technology advances. New form factors, features, and capabilities will continue to be innovated over the years to come. It’s certainly possible that new trends could make traditional photography obsolete. For example, 360 degree photography is one new trend that has garnered a lot of interest.

If that wasn’t enough, the amount of money that companies spend on marketing their innovations is continuing to increase. This means that there are more deals, more packages, and more attempts to convince you that it is the right time to upgrade your gear.

So how do you know when you are actually ready to upgrade your photography gear?

Five Signs you’re ready to upgrade your camera gear

Your needs and wants will be different from mine and from that of your neighbor’s so it’s difficult to offer a blanket “This is when you should upgrade” statement. But, there are at least five key things to consider when upgrading your gear.

When is the Right Time to Upgrade Your Camera Gear?

1. Your current gear is struggling to keep up with your creative needs

It’s a good sign that you are ready to upgrade your gear when your current gear fails to give you the results you are looking for.

When this might be the case is if you are trying to take portraits of people with sharp focus in the foreground and creamy bokeh in the background. If you’re still using the kit lens that came with your camera, odds are the results you’re getting aren’t meeting your needs. In a case like this, buying a new lens might be worth considering.

2. If you’ve decided to go to a more professional level of work

When you decide to make the move from hobbyist to being a professional photographer, upgrading could become a viable option. Higher quality gear tends to be more durable and offers more flexibility, both of which are important in a professional setting.

As an added bonus once you start working professionally you will be able to deduct the costs of your gear from your taxes making the cost of upgrading more bearable.

3. Your gear is showing its age

While tomorrow’s technology will always make today’s look old, and upgrading to stay current is not usually the right choice – there will come a time when you gear does get so dated, that upgrading is actually your best option.

You may even be able to save some money by upgrading to generation body or lens that is a year or two old. This will still allow you to make a leap in terms of the technology that you are using, at a fraction of the cost of jumping to the current generation technologies.

When is the Right Time to Upgrade Your Camera Gear?

4. The manufacturer has dropped support

Sometimes you’ll find out that the manufacturer has dropped support for the product you own. In cases like this, it might be time to consider upgrading. (Note: this means you ignored point #3 above and kept using your aging gear until it effectively died).

5. Your current gear is “hacked” together to meet a need

Finally, let’s say that your current gear does what it needs to do to achieve the photographs that you want, but it does so in a way that requires a cumbersome process or a jerry-rigged system. If there’s a solution available that would simplify your current process in a way that saves you time and frustration it’s certainly worth considering an upgrade.

Two good reasons you are not ready to upgrade

When is the Right Time to Upgrade Your Camera Gear?

1. Upgrading when a new model is released

New model releases are always going to tempt you into upgrading. Marketing teams do a fantastic job at showcasing the new improvements, and how they will enhance your photography. However, rarely will these improvements have a substantial impact on your overall photography. It’s not about whether the new features are better than the ones that you currently have, but will they actually impact the results that you can not achieve with your current camera.

More concisely – does the new model help justify one or more of the reasons listed above? If not, then it’s probably not worth upgrading at this point in time.

2. Keeping up with your friends

As if you need another reason to upgrade – your best photography buddy just did – so now you have to as well. If the reason you’re buying something is because you’re trying to outdo, or one-up someone you know – it’s the wrong reason to upgrade your gear.

What are other valid reasons to upgrade?

Read more here:

  • 3 Valid Reasons it Might be Time to Upgrade Your Camera Equipment
  • Ready to Upgrade Your Kit Lens? Tips for Which Lens to Invest in Next
  • Do You Need to Upgrade to the Latest Camera?

When have you felt the need to upgrade your camera gear? Let us know in the comments below.

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The post When is the Right Time to Upgrade Camera Gear? by John Davenport appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Do This Before You Upgrade a Lens for Your New Camera

13 Jan

new-camera-tips-5

So, you just got a new camera! Congratulations! You’re in the right place, DPS is absolutely full of amazing tutorials that will help get you started, and point you in the right direction. As for me, if there’s one thing that I could say to someone who has just purchased, or received a new camera, this is it:

If this is your first DSRL or mirrorless camera with interchangeable lenses, don’t buy any new lenses or gear for at least a month.

I know, I know. You’ve probably heard that the kit lens is terrible. You’ve probably already been given a list of things that are “must-buys” in order to take amazing photos. You may have even tested out your brand new camera, and been disappointed that your images don’t quite look like you’d hoped they would after you upgraded.

I understand, because I’ve been there. However, waiting to upgrade for at least a few months (get that you need like batteries and memory cards, but hold off on any major purchases like lenses) may actually benefit your photography in the long run. To explain why, let me tell you a little about me and my story.

New-Camera-Tips-1

I received my first DSLR, a Canon Rebel XS, in 2009. I’d done black and white film photography for years, so photography itself wasn’t new to me, but my old fully manual Pentax camera didn’t have things like white balance, or the ability to choose metering modes, and neither did my point-and-shoot digital camera at the time (at least not that I knew of), so there was definitely a big learning curve for me as I transitioned to a digital SLR.

The image above was one of the first that I took with my new camera, and I remember being so frustrated. I hated how yellow it was. I hated the fact that it didn’t really look any better than the images I took with my point-and-shoot camera, and it might have even looked worse! It didn’t take much complaining on my end before well-meaning friends and family members started suggesting different lenses, flashes, and other gear that would help me achieve the look that I was hoping to achieve.

Although I was confident that I’d need to upgrade lenses if I wanted to take my photography to a new level, my husband and I were still pretty newly married and money was tight, so I just kept on with my Rebel XS and Kit lens. I was really frustrated about not being able to upgrade at the time, but the truth was that I didn’t need a lot of new gear, I really just needed to learn how to utilize the gear that I already had.

new-Camera-Tips3

I was pretty sure that I was more interested in photographing landscapes and abstract items than I was photographing people. So, I’d take my camera to work with me and go on photo walks during lunch breaks, taking photos of whatever was around. I discovered how white balance worked, and started to chip away at learning a little more about how my camera functioned. The images still weren’t perfect, as you can see by the examples above and below, but I felt like I was making progress in terms of the overall aesthetic of the photos, and I was really starting to have fun. I was still itching to upgrade, but am forever grateful that we just couldn’t afford it at the time, because it turned out that the type of photography that I thought I was interested in, wasn’t actually my passion after all.

New-Camera-Tips-2

Over the course of the next year, I started taking photos of my nieces and nephew just for fun, and much to my surprise, discovered that I loved taking candid photos of kids. I had experience with portrait photography in high school and college, but thought I didn’t like it. As it turns out, most of my portrait experience had been in a studio setting with a professor who was very, very passionate about Rembrandt Lighting. I didn’t enjoy that kind of photography, but I discovered that I loved sitting in the grass in the backyard, and taking photos as my nieces and nephew played. I loved taking pictures while singing funny songs, and telling little jokes to see if I could make them laugh. Around the same time, I took a few senior portraits for some family friends, and discovered that it wasn’t just kids I enjoyed photographing. I loved taking pictures of people, and I especially loved taking portraits of people.

I also really loved portraits that had a nice blurry background, which was hard (but not impossible) to achieve with my kit lens. I began to look into how I could achieve that effect more easily, and quickly came across Canon’s Nifty Fifty Lens (50mm f/1.8). I purchased that lens shortly before my first daughter was born. It stayed pretty permanently attached to my camera body for the next several years.

New-Camera-Tips-4

My love for portraits has only intensified, and though I have made a number of upgrades to my gear since 2010, I’m glad that it took me about a year to make my first purchase. Being forced to wait allowed me time to discover which type of photography I was really interested in. Had I upgraded right away, I probably would have purchased a lens that would be collecting dust in the back of my closet, because I would have gotten something targeted towards landscapes or macro, rather than something more appropriate for portraits. It’s not the end of the world to own a lens that you don’t use all that often, but it’s also something that can be avoided with just a little patience!

new-camera-tips-6

Waiting to upgrade also forced me to really learn to use the camera that I had, which was actually a great camera, kit lens and all! Still need a little extra convincing that the kit lens isn’t terrible? Check out this Flickr Group called Kit Lens Losers. There are some incredible images in there, all taken with the standard kit lens. You CAN take great images, right out of the box. I promise.

When it did finally come time to upgrade to a new lens, I did so knowing that the upgrade was necessary in order to achieve something (better bokeh and the ability to shoot wide open), that my previous setup limited. The lens was important in helping me achieve the aesthetic that I like in photography, but it was only one piece of the puzzle. Learning about white balance, metering modes, shooting in RAW, and a whole slew of other camera settings were just as important as a new lens in terms of the overall affect on my photography.

I’m not saying that you need to have a perfect understanding of your camera before you upgrade, but I firmly believe that we’re never done learning when it comes to photography. What I am suggesting is that if you spend some time really getting to know your camera and what it is capable of before you upgrade, you’ll be able to ensure that you’re spending your money intentionally, in ways that will allow you to continue to grow in your photography – and that’s always a good thing.

new-camera-tips-7

Have you upgraded you gear? If so, what was your first purchase? If you haven’t, please share what has made you decide to wait.

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The post Do This Before You Upgrade a Lens for Your New Camera by Meredith Clark appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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