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10 High School Football Photography Tips

11 Oct

The post 10 High School Football Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeff Guyer.

high school football photography tips and advice

Are you looking to capture top-notch, action-packed, jaw-dropping photos of high school football?

You’ve come to the right place.

I’ve been doing high school football photography for years, so I’ve picked up plenty of key tips, techniques, and secrets to capture amazing shots. And in this article, I aim to share it all with you, from essential equipment to camera settings to creative tricks and more.

So if you’re ready to elevate your football photography, then let’s dive right in, starting with equipment:

1. Use the right gear

I’m not going to spend a lot of time here discussing camera bodies. Some of the photos in this article were taken years ago using a Nikon D70, and they look great. As long as you’re photographing with a reliable DSLR or mirrorless camera, you’re going to be fine. A fast continuous shooting speed and a capable autofocus system is helpful, but if you can’t afford these features, then don’t worry too much.

For a football photographer, your big concern is lenses. Happily, it is possible to get really great shots with a few basic options. When I first started shooting sports, I used just one lens, a 70-200mm f/2.8. I was able to shoot and edit creatively enough to get a variety of images. If you can only afford one lens right now, definitely opt for a longer zoom.

Don’t just buy any long zoom, however. Make sure it’s plenty fast; in other words, it should ideally feature a maximum aperture of f/2.8. Fast lenses are going to be hugely important once the sun goes down because most high school sports have a prohibition against using flash. You’ll need that ultra-wide aperture to keep a sufficiently fast shutter speed (otherwise, your photos will all turn out blurry!).

By the way, I’d also recommend investing in a nice monopod to keep your camera steady. In good light, you can handhold, but as the day turns into night, you’ll want some form of support – and tripods tend to be annoyingly unwieldy.

As with any type of shoot, make sure you have all of the necessary backups: batteries, memory cards, etc. Also, make sure you also have a plan for when it starts raining. Note that rain will fall on occasion, so be prepared for it. The Think Tank Hydrophobia should do the trick.

high school football in the rain

Trust me. At some point it’s going to rain!

2. Consider how you’ll get in

If you’re serious about football photography, consider contacting the school/venue ahead of time and ask about media credentials. In exchange for your images, you might be able to get a free pass into the game.

Otherwise, you’ll probably have to pay to get in (just like anyone else!). The good news is that it’s usually less than $ 10. You might be able to talk your way in on the day of the game, but the money goes to a good cause, so if you’re forced to pay, it’s not that big of a deal.

3. Get to the game early

Teams take the field to warm up anywhere from one to one-and-a-half hours before game time. And warm-ups are going to give you one of the best opportunities for quality shots.

For starters, the light is better. The sun won’t have set, and you’re going to get strong, powerful natural light, particularly if you shoot with the sun at your back.

Plus, players also tend to move a little more slowly in warm-ups than in the actual game, so you’ll have an easier time capturing motion. You’ll also get more of an opportunity to isolate individual players.

In some cases, you may even be able to actually walk out onto the field to shoot. However, if you do, please be careful! There will be around 150 kids warming up, many of whom are big, fast, and not paying attention to you.

Always remember: the kids’ job is to play football, not give you a good photo op. So make sure you don’t get in the way!

high school football in good light

Get there early and take advantage of the sun while you can.

4. Know the sport

The key to getting quality photos in football?

Have a solid understanding of the game. Know how it is played.

After all, every game has an ebb and flow of its own. If you know how the game goes, then you’ll be ready when the game hits its highs (and you’ll know when you can relax and take your finger off the shutter).

Plus, knowledge of the game will allow you to anticipate moments before they happen. Will it be a running play or a passing play? What are the odds that they’re going to fake the punt on 4th down? Do you need to be on the sideline or the end-zone for the action? The home side of the field or the visitors’?

The more you understand the subtleties of the game, the better prepared you will be.

players snapping the ball

5. Focus like a pro

In football photography, you need to master two types of focusing:

  1. Mental focus
  2. Camera focus

First, mental focus: These kids are big and fast and strong, and are trained to run through anything in their way. So please, please, please pay attention to the game, anticipate change, and get out of the way if players are barrelling toward you.

I once saw a photographer stand his ground on the sidelines, despite the fact that a player was being pushed out of bounds right at him. I watched as his camera, lens, and monopod all went flying in three different directions (he flew in a fourth). He was ultimately wheeled off the field with cuts to his face and a leg that had been broken in two places. No photograph is worth that. So focus on where you are and what is going on around you.

player running with the football

As for the other kind of focus:

You’re photographing an action sport and you want action photos. So set your camera to its continuous autofocus setting (AF-C on some cameras, AI-Servo on others).

Now, the kids will be wearing helmets, so don’t worry if you can’t focus on the players’ eyes. Sure, if you can get the eyes, that’s great. If not, your best bet is to lock on the players’ numbers, or even the ball once players start moving. Here, your camera’s tracking mode will be a big help. Of course, feel free to experiment with other AF area modes, just in case one suits your style of shooting.

The goal is speed and accuracy. And at first, you may struggle. That’s normal. But keep practicing, keep working at it, and you’ll eventually improve.

football player with ball

6. Use the right camera settings

Football players move fast, and if you come home with 250 blurry photos, you aren’t going to be happy. So pay careful attention to your shutter speed, because the faster your shutter speed, the better your chances of freezing the action.

I generally like to start with a shutter speed of 1/500s and adjust my aperture and ISO accordingly until I get the look I want. Since football is an outdoor sport, the lighting is going to change over the course of the game. You may start out with great natural light, but you’ll often end in the dark with less-than-ideal stadium lighting. This, in turn, may mean slowing down your shutter speed to let in more light, as well as opening up your aperture to its maximum or raising your ISO.

Mastering these settings – and knowing what to adjust during a game – takes some practice. Be prepared for some trial and error. Here, Shutter Priority mode is often your friend, as you can input your desired shutter speed and ISO, then let your camera automatically adjust the aperture. You might also consider using Auto ISO with some sort of cap (but before you go this route, test different ISO values and determine your maximum “good” ISO).

intimate details and portraits

7. Carefully choose your vantage point

Beginning football photographers struggle to position themselves correctly. They often pick an empty bleacher seat near the field, set up their gear, and stay in place for the entire game.

But if you want truly excellent photos, you need to position yourself carefully – and if possible, you should move with the action.

How do you pick the best position? First and foremost, let the light guide you. It sounds dramatic, but really, you should just take advantage of the sun while you can. Especially when you’re starting out, put the sun at your back so that it’s falling onto the field and nicely illuminating the players. As you get more experienced, you can try switching things up and working with backlight (i.e., situations where the light comes from behind the players, as in the photo below) or even sidelight, but as a beginner, keep things as easy as possible.

football photography in beautiful light

Obviously, the closer you are to the action, the better your photos will be. So get as close to the field as possible. If you can, position yourself on the sidelines, below the bleachers. This will give you the best angles, plus it will give you room to move with the game.

Be aware that some stadiums will have restrictions on where you can and can’t stand, regardless of your press credentials. “The Box,” for example, is the area on the sideline between the 20-yard lines. This area, for a variety of reasons, is off-limits to anyone other than players, coaches, trainers, etc. A game official who is a stickler for the rules could penalize the team for your presence in the box. If that happens, start running and don’t look back!

There is a natural tendency to shoot a football game primarily from “your” team’s side of the field. If you’re a parent, this is where you know people and feel comfortable. But try going around to the other side of the field once in a while. That way, you can capture the action with your team’s colors and sidelines in the background.

8. Be creative and keep your eyes open

Sure, you’re photographing football, but that doesn’t mean you can’t be creative with your angles and compositions. If you are selling game photos on your website, getting creative will only help!

I tend to think in terms of portraits; how can I highlight a specific player in the best way possible? Changing angles resulted in getting this quarterback against a perfect background:

player preparing to throw the ball

Don’t fall into the trap, though, of assuming that everything worth photographing is right there on the field in front of you. Spend some time in the stands. Shoot the crowd reactions. Photograph the band and the cheerleaders. Capture the traditions. There is so much more going on in a stadium than just a football game. So turn your back on the action once in a while and take a look around you. There are stories everywhere.

Most importantly, learn to keep your head on a swivel!

coaches and cheerleaders

dog on the football field

Pay attention. You never know who might drop in.

9. Consider using your camera’s continuous shooting mode

Beginner sports photographers tend to set their camera to its fastest shooting mode, then follow the “spray and pray” strategy where you capture a series of shots over a split-second window.

But is this advisable? Or should you use your camera’s single-shot mode?

Honestly, it really depends on you and your style. Ask five photographers, and you’ll get five different answers. When I first started shooting high school sports, I was working with a slow camera that didn’t let me “spray and pray” consistently and hope for the best. It may have been frustrating back then, but it was probably a good thing. I learned to compose my shots and choose my moments a little more carefully. Over time, I developed a pretty fast shutter finger and a better eye for sports action. So even now, with a faster camera, I tend to leave my camera set for single clicks.

Ultimately, I’d recommend you try out both settings. Work with your camera’s continuous shooting mode for a while. Then, once you’ve gotten some shots you’re satisfied with, switch over to a single-shot mode and see how it feels!

players with the football

10. Listen to the coaches (and follow proper etiquette)

If you are covering a particular team over the course of a season, introduce yourself to the coaches. Your job will be easier if they know who you are and why you are there. Plus, play your cards right with the coaches and there’s no telling what kind of access you might get.

football players preparing for a game

Being nice to coaches gets you all kinds of access.

If a coach or official tells you something, listen. If they ask you to move, move. You’re in their house and you have to play by their rules.

As I mentioned above, don’t use flash. It’s not allowed, plus it can seriously impact the game. It may sound silly, but you have no idea what the consequences of an unexpected flash might be. There could be college scouts in the stands, and if you blind the receiver with your flash, they might not get a scholarship or even get recruited at all.

Also, if play stops for an injury on the field, show respect and put your camera down. While injuries might make for compelling photography, you may be witnessing the end of a child’s life-long dream or even their chances of going to college. You don’t want the student or their parents to see that on your website. This is high school, not the NFL. Be sensitive and keep things in perspective.

High school football photography tips: final words

Any seasoned photographer will tell you that photographing sports is not easy, and football may be one of the hardest games to shoot.

However, with with a little practice and preparation, your images will start to improve. Remember these tips, apply them to your photography, and pretty soon, your photographs will be outstanding.

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for football photography? Have you photographed any games? What was it like? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Sports Photography

  • GENERAL
    • 8 Tips On How to Photograph Sports
    • Tips from the Sports Photography Pros to Help You Get the Money Shots
    • Indoor Sports Photography
    • SETTINGS
      • How To Use Sports Mode
    • LIGHTING
      • Shooting Portraits and Action Sports with Speedlites – Workshop
    • GEAR
      • Lens Review Canon 300mm f4 Lens for Sports Photography
      • Aquatech CO-7 Underwater Sport Housing [REVIEW]
      • Shooting Motorsports with a Micro Four Thirds Camera
    • ADVANCED GUIDES
      • Tips for Photographing Football (Soccer)
        • How to Shoot High School Football

        • Play Ball! Covering Your Bases Shooting Baseball
        • How to Capture the Perfect Action Shot in Sports Photography
          • Low Light Sports Photography
          • 3 Tips for Taking Better Motorsport Photos
          • Catching the Action: Photographing Youth Sports
            • Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography
          • POST-PROCESSING
            • Using Photoshop to Create the Illusion of Depth of Field with your Sports Photos

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          The post 10 High School Football Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeff Guyer.


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          8 Tips for Beautiful Fall Landscape Photography

          29 Sep

          The post 8 Tips for Beautiful Fall Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dusty Doddridge.

          8 tips for fall landscape photography

          Capturing stunning autumn landscape photos might seem difficult, but it’s actually pretty easy – once you know a few simple tricks.

          As an experienced fall landscape photographer, I’ve spent plenty of time in search of those elusive fall photos. I’ve made lots of mistakes, but I’ve also had a lot of success, and in this article, I aim to show you how it’s done.

          Specifically, I’m going to share eight practical tips for creating beautiful fall landscape photography. I’ll cover:

          • The perfect lens choice to emphasize patterns in foliage
          • The best fall landscape settings for gorgeous results
          • My favorite type of autumn landscape light
          • Much more!

          So if you’re ready to head out into the field and start taking some jaw-dropping shots of your own, give this article a read; I guarantee it’ll be worth your while.

          1. Use a lens with a long focal length

          orange and yellow trees in the snow

          Autumn leaves, trees, and forests look so beautiful that it’s often tempting to whip out that wide-angle lens and capture the entire scene.

          But while a wide-angle lens can work for fall photography, it’s often better to go in the opposite direction and shoot with a longer focal length. A 70-200mm f/4 lens is ideal, though you can also shoot with a 100-400mm lens, or even one of those monster 150-600mm options.

          You see, a longer lens can really help simplify the scene and make the shot about more than just the colors. A long focal length lets you emphasize patterns in the leaves, plus it compresses the scene to create a beautiful wall of trees.

          You can also use the longer focal length to highlight intimate details of a forest interior. Look for patterns, but then hunt for the part of the scene where the pattern breaks and include it in your composition. Consider including negative space to help isolate your subject.

          2. Use a wide aperture to isolate the subject

          Often, photographers shoot autumn landscape photography at narrow apertures, such as f/8 and beyond. And when you’re capturing images full of sweeping foregrounds and intricate patterns, a narrow aperture makes sense (for instance, the image featured in the next tip, with the river in the foreground and leaves in the background, was shot at a narrow aperture).

          However, you can also create unique fall shots with a wide aperture. Set your lens to f/2.8 or f/5.6, then get in close and isolate your subject from its surroundings. You can get a shot like this:

          shallow depth of field fall landscape photography

          Here, the foreground tree trunk is sharp, while the background becomes a pleasing, slightly colorful blur.

          Ultimately, a wide aperture creates visual contrast between the sharp subject and the soft, abstract background. This also adds tension between the real and the unreal, providing you with an image that’s more dynamic and expressive.

          While you can always shoot lone trees against colorful leaves, try experimenting with different subjects and backgrounds. Get creative with your choices. Pay close attention to your subject, and make sure you have enough depth of field to keep its key features sharp; it often pays to check the LCD preview after you’ve taken a shot just to be sure.

          3. Make fall color the secondary subject

          Fall colors are great, so it can be tempting to make them the primary subject of your photo. In other words, you’ll probably want to make the image all about the fall colors: their beautiful hues, the texture of the leaves, the pattern of the trees.

          But to make your photos more unique, look for other primary subjects, such as streams and waterfalls, that are accented by the fall colors. This will also give your fall landscape photography more depth and complexity, plus it can really draw in the viewer, as the eye sweeps from the beautiful foreground to the stunning fall backdrop:

          long exposure river in fall

          So before you take a shot, ask yourself: What could I highlight other than the fall colors? How could I combine the fall colors with a foreground subject to get a great result?

          By the way, this is one time when a wide-angle lens is the better choice in fall landscape shooting. The wider field of view lets you capture an interesting foreground and a beautiful backdrop (but make sure you’re using a narrow depth of field, otherwise you’ll lose the colorful detail in the trees!).

          4. Look for patterns and textures

          Fall color photos tend to start with, well, color. It’s what generally draws you to the scene in the first place, after all.

          However, the best fall landscape shots merely use color as a jumping off point.

          In other words, they include color, but the color doesn’t carry the image. Instead, the composition relies on color plus patterns and textures to hold the viewer’s interest.

          Many fall scenes do have plenty of interesting patterns and textures to work with, so moving beyond color isn’t especially difficult. Simply find some reds, yellows, and oranges that you like – then think about other compositional elements you can incorporate into the shot.

          For the photo below, I used a combination of yellow color, forest floor texture, and tree repetition to create an eye-catching result:

          aspen tree patterns fall landscape

          5. Be patient

          A decent camera and a telephoto lens is great for fall photography, but patience is the best tool in your camera bag.

          Specifically, the autumn landscape photographer must learn to wait for two things:

          1. Great color
          2. Great light

          Now, I don’t mean to suggest that you stay inside until autumn colors hit their peak. You can capture beautiful shots at the beginning of the color change by focusing on lone reds among a sea of green, and you can capture dramatic shots at the end of the color change by emphasizing the moody browns and the last of the colorful leaves.

          But make sure you pay careful attention to the changing leaves. Try checking a local foliage predictor. And then, when the fall color peak really comes, make sure you spend plenty of time outdoors capturing the autumn beauty.

          And as for the light…

          While fall colors are wonderful, they can be even more stunning when combined with the right light. For instance, a small patch of sunlight on a mountain peak, or dappled light hitting a sea of yellow trees, is often the difference between a good image and a great image. Unfortunately, the light rarely does what you want exactly when you want, so if you find a beautiful composition, be ready to hunker down and wait for the perfect light.

          Pro tip: The best light is often short lived, so think through your settings and composition in advance. When the light hits, be ready.

          mountain surrounded by yellow trees

          By the way, while beautiful sunlight plus dramatic clouds often works great for fall photos, if you’re focusing more on the colors and less on the wider landscape, I recommend heading out on gray, overcast days. The sky will act as a huge softbox, and you’ll get beautifully saturated colors (plus a wonderfully moody, gloomy feeling!).

          6. Experiment with intentional camera movement

          Intentional camera movement (ICM) involves deliberately moving your camera during a long exposure to create abstract effects like this:

          intentional camera movement fall landscape

          And thanks to the beautiful colors, fall is a great time to try it out.

          First, find some nice colors and trees. If possible, ensure there’s contrast between the tree trunks and the autumn leaves (note the white trees and orange leaves in the photo above).

          Then switch your camera over to Manual or Shutter Priority mode. Make sure your shutter speed is around 1/30s or longer.

          Finally, focus on the leaves, then move your camera as you release the shutter!

          Note that intentional camera movement is very hit and miss, so don’t be discouraged if your first shots don’t turn out as great as you hoped. Definitely experiment with moving your camera in different directions (I recommend vertical movement, but you can try horizontal or even diagonal). Also, experiment with different shutter speeds and the pace of moving your camera until you find the right amount of blur.

          7. Look for elements that contrast with the fall color

          Fall colors are usually bright and have textures and patterns. To really take your photos to the next level, find nice colors – but be sure to contrast them with darker elements. That way, you can create dramatic tension.

          Look at the image displayed below. I found some nice, bright, well-lit trees, but I shot them against a dark, shadowy rock face:

          trees against a dark rock face

          And it’s that contrast, that drama, that elevates the shot.

          Of course, dark rocks aren’t the only contrasting element you can use in your photos. You can include sun/shade contrast (where your subject is lit by the sun but the background is in shade), you can contrast fall colors with dark water, or you can contrast bright fall colors with darker, browning fall colors (the opportunities are endless!).

          8. Don’t forget to look up

          The interior of a forest can be an amazing place to shoot the fall colors, but it’s often difficult to find a pleasing composition. Sometimes, you just can’t isolate individual elements and you can’t find interesting patterns. You might be ready to throw in the towel, but I’d recommend you try something else:

          Look up and explore the canopy.

          This works best on sunny days; images that contrast the fall colors with the deep blue sky can be really pleasing.

          wide-angle forest shot looking up at the sky

          You generally want to keep the trees sharp from foreground to background, so don’t forget to use smaller apertures like f/22. Also, a narrow aperture will create a starburst effect if you shoot through the forest toward the sun.

          Fall landscape photography tips: final words

          Hopefully, these tips will help you make the most of your time photographing the amazing colors of the fall season.

          In fact, if you found these autumn landscape photography tips helpful, print out the article and take it with you into the field; that way, you can slow down, think through your compositions, and return home with some compelling photographs.

          Now over to you:

          Do you have any fall landscape photography tips to share? Which of these tips was your favorite? Share your thoughts – and photos! – in the comments below.

          Table of contents

          Landscape Photography

          • GENERAL
            • The dPS Ultimate Guide to Landscape Photography
            • 10 Most Common Mistakes in Landscape Photography – and How to Overcome Them
            • Responsibilities of Landscape Photographers
          • PREPARATION
            • How to Find and Photograph Wild Landscapes for Epic Images
            • The Three Dangers of Landscape Photography
            • How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo
            • How to Find the Best Locations for Landscape Photography
            • The Importance of Scouting for Landscape Photographers
            • Why Goal Planning Is the Key to Growing as a Landscape Photographer
            • What is Your Favorite Landscape Location?
            • 8 Tips to Avoid Crowds at Popular Landscape Locations
          • SETTINGS
            • 5 Tips for Setting the Focus in Your Landscape Photography
            • Understanding Aperture and Landscape Photography – Why F16 Isn’t the Only Choice
            • Guide to Creative White Balance for Landscape Photography
            • How a Short Versus Long Exposure Will Affect Your Landscape Images
            • How to Get Super Sharp Landscape Photography Images
            • Getting Landscapes Sharp: Hyperfocal Distances and Aperture Selection
            • The Best ISO for Landscape Photography (in Every Situation)
            • 5 Reasons To Should Shoot Your Landscape Images in RAW
            • How to Work with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography
          • LIGHTING
            • Tips for Using Flash to Enhance Outdoor Nature and Landscape Photography
            • Landscape Photography: It’s All About the Light
            • How to Improve Your Landscape Photography By Understanding Portrait Lighting
            • Painting with Light in the Landscape
          • COMPOSITION
            • Aspect Ratios in Landscape Photography
            • 6 Tips for Capturing Dramatic Skies in your Landscape Photography
            • How to Use Leading Lines Effectively in Landscape Photography
            • 10 Landscape Composition Techniques for Breathtaking Photos (2021)
            • 3 Reasons to Shoot Vertical Aspect Landscapes and 6 Tips on How to Shoot Them
            • How to Use Juxtaposition for More Compelling Landscape Photography
            • Using Layers and Foreground Interest for Better Landscape Photography
            • Include The Foreground For Dramatic Landscapes
            • How to Photograph a Minimalist Landscape
            • 5 Framing Tricks to Help You Capture Better Landscape Photos
            • How to Use Balance in Your Landscape Photography Composition
            • 5 Good Reasons to Add People into Your Landscape Photography
            • Include Clouds In Your Landscapes
            • Landscape Photography and the Human Element
            • How to Add a Sense of Scale to Your Landscape Photos
            • How to Solve 5 Composition Conundrums Faced by Landscape Photographers
            • The S-Curve: A Landscape Photography Composition Technique
            • Using Water to Lighten Landscape Photos
          • GEAR
            • 5 Quick Reasons to Use the Nifty Fifty for Landscape Photography
            • Using Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography
            • How to Use Neutral Density Filters to Make Better Landscape Photos
            • How to Use Wide-angle Lenses for Landscape Photography
            • Tips for Shooting Landscapes With a Telephoto Lens
            • Six Tips For Using Filters to Improve Your Landscape Photos
            • 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography
            • Six Situations Where Tripods are Essential for Landscape Photographers
            • Wide Angle Versus Telephoto Lenses for Beautiful Landscape Photography
            • 10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear
            • Why you Need a Telephoto Zoom Lens for Landscape Photography
            • Circular Polarizers Versus Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography
            • Comparison – HDR Versus Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography
            • Polarizing and Neutral Density Filters: Essentials for Landscape Photography
            • Why I Always Use an L-Plate Bracket for Landscape Photography
            • Why I Switched From LEE Filters to Formatt-Hitech for Landscape Photography
            • Review of the Venus Laowa 15mm F/4 Wide Angle Lens for Landscape Photographers
            • Which Landscape Photography Camera Should You Buy?
            • Essential Accessories for Landscape Photography
            • How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography
          • ADVANCED GUIDES
            • 10 Tips for Photographing Wide-Angle Landscapes
            • 8 Tips for Fall Landscape Photography

            • 5 Tips for Better Winter Landscape Photography
            • 5 Ways to Create Dramatic Landscape Photos at Midday
            • How to Shoot Landscapes at Sunset
            • Tips for Shooting Landscape Photography Towards the Sun
            • 8 Steps to Great Long Exposure Landscape Photography
            • 15 Tips for Low Light Landscape Photography
            • The Night Sky In Landscape Photography
            • How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos – 4 Steps
            • A Day At The Beach: Photographing Seaside Landscapes
            • Tips for Winter Landscape Photography on the Prairie
            • Landscape Photography – Shooting the Same Location Through the Seasons
            • 3 Tips to Take Better Landscape Photos Regardless of the Weather
            • Time for Landscape – Weather and Landscape Photography
            • Tips for Landscape Photography in Exotic Places
            • Putting You Into Your Landscape Photography
            • 5 Ways to Capture More Diverse Landscape Photos
            • 5 Tips to Discover Intimate vs. Grand Landscape & Nature Photography
            • Photographing Starry Skies for Nocturnal Landscape Without Breaking the Bank
          • CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
            • How to Take Creative Landscape Shots Using Intentional Camera Movement
            • How to Convert a Camera to Infrared for Black and White Landscape Photography
            • Tips for Making Dramatic Black and White Landscape Photos
            • 6 Ideas for More Creative Landscape Photography
            • How to Create Glass Ball Landscapes – 6 Techniques
            • How to Get Landscapes Sharp with Focus Stacking
            • How to do Landscape Panoramic Photography
          • POST-PROCESSING
            • 5 Easy Steps to Exposure Blending for High Contrast Landscapes
            • A Super Simple Way to Make Landscape Photos POP Using Lightroom
            • Making the Best Use of HDR in Landscape Photography
            • Landscape Editing Techniques for Fine Art Photography Using Lightroom
            • How to Use Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop to Make Your Landscape Images Pop
            • Editing Gently: 3 Tips for Processing Realistic Landscape Photos
            • The Power of Post-processing for Landscape Photography
            • How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos
            • Top 5 Nik Collection Filters to Improve Your Landscape Photos
            • How to Edit Landscape and Nature Photos with the Lightroom Gradient Tool and Range Mask Features
            • Lightroom Quick Post-Processing Tips for Landscape Photography
            • Tips for Processing Winter Landscapes in Lightroom
            • How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing
            • How to Process a Black and White Landscape Photo Using Lightroom
            • How to Give Your Landscape Photos Extra Punch in One Easy Step
            • Tips For Editing the Colors in Landscape Photos Using Lightroom (video)
            • Tips for Processing Landscape Photos – from Basic Edits to Artistic Interpretation
            • 5 Tips For Mastering Contrast In Your Landscape Photos (video)
            • Using the Lightroom Adjustment Brush to add Dimension to a Landscape Photo
            • OPINION: Why Photoshop is Ruining Landscape Photography
          • INSPIRATION
            • An Interview With Landscape Photography Legend Art Wolfe – Part 1
            • 27 Black and White Landscape Images
            • A Collection of Stunning Landscape Photographs
            • 9 Striking Landscapes That Break the ‘Rules’
            • These Inspiring Landscape Photographers will Make You Want to Take Better Photos

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          The post 8 Tips for Beautiful Fall Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dusty Doddridge.


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          7 Tips for Action-Packed Indoor Sports Photography

          27 Sep

          The post 7 Tips for Action-Packed Indoor Sports Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.

          indoor sports photography: essential tips

          Indoor sports aren’t always easy to photography. In fact, for the beginning sports photographer, they can be downright intimidating, thanks to the fast action, low light, and limited camera movement.

          Fortunately, experienced sports shooters have developed a number of techniques that make indoor sports photography way easier, including:

          • Simple starting settings for sharp indoor shots
          • Standard gear that every beginner should own
          • Careful research you should do before approaching a sport
          • Much more!

          And that’s what this article is all about. I’m going to share my top 7 tips to take your indoor sports photos to the next level – and by the time you’re done, you’ll be ready to head out with your camera and start creating some action-packed photos of your own.

          Let’s get started.

          1. Use a fast camera

          I’m guessing you know this already, but many indoor sports are fast-paced. Basketball, hockey, indoor soccer – all of it requires split-second attention to detail. One moment, a player has the ball/puck; the next, it’s in the goal/basket and the team is celebrating.

          man dunking a basketball

          Which means that you need a fast camera to keep up with the action. Specifically, I recommend a camera that offers:

          • Interchangeable lenses (i.e., a mirrorless camera or a DSLR)
          • Fast continuous shooting speeds (at least 8 frames per second, though 10+ is better)
          • A deep buffer (so you can take several bursts without pause)
          • Lighting-fast autofocus (ideally with eye autofocus tracking)

          Sports-focused cameras do tend to be expensive, but for the serious shooter, it’s absolutely worth it (and there are cheaper models that offer a lot of the fundamental sports features without breaking the bank).

          You’ll also want to pay attention to camera low-light capabilities. A camera that can shoot at high ISOs without significant noise is a big deal, because you can push it to the max when shooting in poorly lit arenas. To determine high-ISO performance, you can read reviews, which nearly always do in-depth ISO tests and comparisons.

          2. Use a lens with a wide maximum aperture

          Indoor sports arenas, even in the best-case scenario, tend to offer pretty limited lighting. That’s where wide-aperture lenses come in; they let you capture plenty of light, thus keeping your shutter speed high (for sharp photos) and your ISO low (to reduce noise).

          Professional shooters tend to use lenses with a maximum aperture of f/2.8, and these are ideal, though they’re also expensive. At the very least, you should use lenses with a fixed f/4 maximum aperture.

          By the way, you’ll often be positioned away from the action and limited in your movement, so shooting with a wide-angle lens or a fast prime generally isn’t an option. Instead, sports photographers use fast zoom lenses, such as a 70-200mm f/2.8 or a 24-70mm f/2.8. Eventually, you may want to add a fast super-telephoto prime to your bag, but a 70-200mm lens is a great starting point.

          3. Shoot with a fast shutter speed

          Once again, sports photography is all about the action – and if you don’t use a fast shutter speed, then you’ll end up with blurry, unpleasant photos that nobody likes.

          On the other hand, a fast shutter speed will let you freeze movement, even split-second movement, like a hand slamming the ball down through a hoop, or a stick drawing back to smack the puck.

          action indoor sports photography

          So what counts as fast enough? I recommend a shutter speed of at least 1/200s, but faster is better. If you can, boost this to 1/400s, or even – if the light is good or your camera can handle high ISOs – 1/1000s.

          Pro tip: You can sometimes create artistic shots by slowing down the shutter speed to 1/30s or so. Try photographing a moving player and consider panning along for a blurry background effect. Sure, the results won’t be pin-sharp, but they’ll convey movement (and can look great in a creative portfolio!).

          4. Use a high ISO

          In the previous tip, I emphasized the importance of a fast shutter speed. But if you just crank up the shutter and leave the rest of your settings alone, you’ll let in too little light – and your photos will be wildly underexposed.

          Instead, you must balance out the fast shutter speed with a high ISO setting. That way, even as you reduce the light hitting the sensor, you maintain the overall brightness of the photo.

          I recommend an ISO of at least 1600, though plenty of cameras these days can handle much more than that (even ISO 6400 and ISO 12800 may be fair game, depending on your model). Since there’s so much variation from camera model to camera model, take some test shots at different ISOs and compare them. Ask yourself: How do I feel about the noise produced at ISO 3200? How about ISO 6400? See what you can tolerate, identify a cut-off point, and then push your ISO as necessary.

          5. Shoot in RAW

          Here’s one final piece of settings advice:

          When possible, use a RAW file format.

          You see, RAW files contain all of the data captured the moment you hit the shutter button. Whereas their alternative, the JPEG, produces a compressed version of that RAW file – which, by definition, is lower quality.

          This has plenty of consequences. For one, you can make significant edits to RAW files without causing issues, but JPEGs are resistant to serious editing (and the more significant the edit, the more you risk ruining the shot). RAW files also contain more detail, allow you to recover highlights and shadows, and more.

          Now, JPEGs are smaller and instantly shareable, plus they’re easier for your camera to process (and therefore allow for longer burst sequences). So if you absolutely need to increase your camera’s buffer, or you like the idea of immediately sharing your images (without needing to process them in programs such as Lightroom or Capture One, as required by RAW files), then you might consider using JPEGs.

          Otherwise, shoot RAW.

          6. Learn to anticipate the action

          What separates the good sports photographers from the great sports photographers? Their ability to predict the action in advance, and therefore be ready to capture a cover-quality shot.

          Fortunately, learning to anticipate action isn’t as hard as it sounds. It simply takes a lot of research.

          First, familiarize yourself with the rules of the sport you’re photographing. Know the rulebook inside and out; that way, you always know how the gameplay will proceed, when players move down the field, when penalties happen, etc.

          players playing basketball in black and white

          Second, learn strategy. If you know how teams are likely to approach the game, then you’ll be ready to shoot when the game gets intense.

          Third, learn about specific teams and players. This is an advanced technique, but once you get really good at rules and strategy, you can try to determine how a team or player will behave, which gives you a serious advantage. You’ll know exactly what’s going to happen before it does; your photos will practically shoot themselves!

          All that said, even the best sports photographers can’t predict every movement – after all, sports are fast and complex – so make sure you’re ready for anything.

          7. Look for relationships and expressions

          Oftentimes, beginner sports photographers shoot individuals: the basketball player going for a jump shot, the volleyball player spiking at the net.

          But if you can capture multiple players together, you can create more compelling images. For instance, you might shoot one player handing the ball to another, two players talking to each other, or opposing players squaring off. It’s about portraying relationships, looking for interactions, and capturing engagement.

          moment between two players before gameplay begins

          Also, pro tip: Try to photograph players as people, not just as players. In other words, aim to capture emotion, such as anger, joy, or nervousness – in the look one player gives the camera, in the stare one player gives another, in the team huddle just before a buzzer-beater shot.

          That way, you’ll create indoor sports photos that people will remember.

          Indoor sports photography tips: final words

          Hopefully, you now feel equipped to capture some stunning indoor sports images of your own.

          Just follow the tips I’ve laid out for you, add in a healthy dash of creativity, and you’ll be golden!

          Now over to you:

          What sports do you plan to shoot this season? Do you have any indoor sports tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

          volleyball players celebrating

          Table of contents

          Sports Photography

          • GENERAL
            • 8 Tips On How to Photograph Sports
            • Tips from the Sports Photography Pros to Help You Get the Money Shots
            • Indoor Sports Photography

            • SETTINGS
              • How To Use Sports Mode
            • LIGHTING
              • Shooting Portraits and Action Sports with Speedlites – Workshop
            • GEAR
              • Lens Review Canon 300mm f4 Lens for Sports Photography
              • Aquatech CO-7 Underwater Sport Housing [REVIEW]
              • Shooting Motorsports with a Micro Four Thirds Camera
            • ADVANCED GUIDES
              • Tips for Photographing Football (Soccer)
                • How to Shoot High School Football
                • Play Ball! Covering Your Bases Shooting Baseball
                • How to Capture the Perfect Action Shot in Sports Photography
                  • Low Light Sports Photography
                  • 3 Tips for Taking Better Motorsport Photos
                  • Catching the Action: Photographing Youth Sports
                    • Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography
                  • POST-PROCESSING
                    • Using Photoshop to Create the Illusion of Depth of Field with your Sports Photos

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                  The post 7 Tips for Action-Packed Indoor Sports Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.


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                  7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results)

                  25 Sep

                  The post 7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.

                  fall portrait photography tips

                  Autumn provides photographers with an abundance of colors and amazing light, which is why autumn is one of the best seasons for portrait photography. It offers up magical, moody, and even nostalgic photos like this one:

                  girl on a log in the fall

                  But while fall portrait photography can look amazing, capturing the best shots isn’t always easy. Yes, fall backgrounds look awesome and fall light is breathtaking, but you shouldn’t just aim your camera and hope for the best.

                  In this article, I’ll share my top fall photography portrait tips. And by the time you’ve finished, you’ll be able to create stunning images like a pro.

                  Sound good? Let’s dive right in.

                  1. Prepare your equipment and check the weather

                  leaves changing color

                  Preparation is the key to any successful shoot – fall portrait sessions included.

                  Of course, ensuring your camera batteries are charged, your memory cards are clear, and your lenses are clean seems like a no-brainer, but it’s often the fundamentals that we overlook.

                  Pro tip: When clearing cards, double check that you have downloaded everything, then use the in-camera Format function to clear your images. Don’t delete photos via your computer – otherwise, you risk card-writing issues down the line.

                  Also, make sure you check the weather. In many parts of the world, the weather can change quickly, so it pays to stay informed. If you’re doing a paid session, you may have to schedule far in advance and you’ll simply have to make the best of a bad weather day – but if your fall portrait photoshoot is more informal, keeping an eye on the weather can make a big difference. At the very least, it’ll keep you from venturing out into the cold only to find that your session gets rained out within minutes.

                  By the way, if you and your subject/model are up for it, autumn portraits in the rain can look gorgeous. But you’ll need to protect your equipment (try a simple rain cover) and make sure you wear a jacket.

                  a misty autumn portrait

                  2. Get out when the light is best

                  Light can make or break a fall portrait, so this tip is critical. You can shoot autumn portraits on overcast days, especially if you’re after a moody, nostalgic look. However, I personally prefer the warm light of sunrise and sunset.

                  Now, dragging your family out of bed for a photoshoot is always going to be tough, so I recommend skipping the morning light; instead, aim to start your shoot about an hour before sunset. The low sunlight will be flattering, plus you might get a beautiful sunset to include in the background (or to use for fun autumn silhouettes).

                  By the way, make sure you look up sunset times for your local area before scheduling a shoot. You might be surprised to realize how early it gets dark, and you want at least a good hour of shooting before the sun goes down.

                  3. Choose the right clothing

                  Make sure everyone dresses appropriately. It’s getting colder, and if everyone stays warm – including both the model and the photographer! – you’ll have one less thing to worry about.

                  Also, it may seem lovely and warm outside, but believe me: it gets cold pretty quick when the sun starts to go down. And advise your subject to bring a change of clothing. It can be wet and muddy, and you certainly don’t want to end the session with an accidental tumble.

                  As for clothing colors and aesthetic: In the fall, getting this right can make a huge difference to your images. Ask your subject to wear natural tones that will either blend in or complement the colors of the leaves and trees. For the photo below, my son wore a dark red sweater, as we knew the area had very vivid reds in the trees:

                  boy wearing a purple-red sweater

                  My daughter wore black and white, which is a timeless combination that blends in well. Also, my son wore a gray hood that worked well with my daughter’s clothes.

                  If you do have multiple subjects, try and avoid clashing patterns or colors. Discuss clothing choices in advance, and consider coming up with a color scheme that everyone can follow.

                  Also, avoid t-shirts or sweatshirts that have dominant logos. These can be very distracting, plus they can date an image.

                  Again, ensure there is one (or more) changes of clothes available. This will not only provide variety in your images, but will also prepare you to deal with any accidents in the wet and possibly muddy conditions.

                  4. Choose your location wisely

                  In autumn, you want to find the best colors and textures available, which often means heading to a botanical garden or a beautiful forest. Pay attention to the foliage, and feel free to check out a foliage predictor map; certain areas, depending on their elevation and latitude, will turn before others, and the more fall color, the better.

                  Also, note that fall conditions can change really quickly. Leaves turn over a couple of days, and it often won’t happen until later than you think (which is where a fall foliage map comes in handy!). You also need to check that the leaves are still present (a heavy wind can take them down overnight, so if you find a good place to shoot, don’t dawdle!).

                  For my most recent shoot, I searched online for arboretums, which often feature collections of interesting trees like this one:

                  Japanese maple colors

                  One more quick tip: Use social media for location tags to see what other people have photographed over the last few days (at or near the same location). Instagram, Twitter, and even Trip Advisor work well. You may find a great location that you would never have considered otherwise.

                  5. Use the right aperture (and settings)

                  In fall portrait photography, your ISO should stay low to prevent noise, and your shutter speed should sit at 1/125s and above (I consider 1/60s to be my absolute minimum, assuming my lens or camera doesn’t include image stabilization).

                  But it’s your aperture that can really make a difference. I highly recommend you experiment with different apertures; that way, you can create beautiful blurred backgrounds, as well as backgrounds that emphasize the color and texture of the leaves.

                  To get a super blurry background, set your aperture to its widest option (i.e., the lowest number, such as f/4, f/2.8, f/1.8, etc.). For me, this is generally f/2.8, though with the kit lens that comes with your camera, you should be able to shoot at around f/5. Here’s the type of effect you can expect with a wide aperture:

                  girl with blurry background using an f/2.8 shutter speed

                  If you want greater definition in the leaves, try focusing on your subject but increasing the aperture to f/8:

                  girl fall portrait f/8 aperture

                  And if you want everything in focus, from the subject in the foreground to the leaves in the background, you can increase the aperture to f/16 or even f/22. Be careful when shooting at f/22, though; your shutter speed will be significantly lower so you’ll probably need to increase your ISO, plus you’ll get image softening due to diffraction.

                  girl autumn portrait f/22

                  I always shoot in RAW, as it allows me that extra flexibility when editing. With modern cameras, JPEGs are very versatile, but I still recommend you capture RAW files if possible (some cameras allow you to capture a RAW and JPEG at the same time, which is a good option if you’re attached to JPEGs).

                  As for your camera’s White Balance setting: You can always leave it on Auto, but I like to use Cloudy White Balance for fall portraits. It warms up the colors, and while you can always adjust later on if you shoot in RAW, it’s helpful to get an accurate preview of the final result.

                  6. Aim to capture emotions and natural smiles

                  The best portrait photos tend to look natural, which requires natural poses, but also natural expressions.

                  Now, when it comes to encouraging natural expressions, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. For adults, I generally recommend you get your subject comfortable in advance by talking with them, asking them about their life, etc. You can also try making them laugh, though this can be tough, or you can give them something to do (e.g., play the violin) and photograph them once they’re fully engaged.

                  For children, you can use props, you can tell jokes, or you can ask them to run toward you as fast as they can. You might also ask the parents for ideas, as they know their children best!

                  For the image below, I asked my children to laugh hysterically for no reason at all. This looked ridiculous, but as they calmed down, the smiles were more natural.

                  kids laughing hysterically during photo shoot

                  If you’re photographing more than one child, ask one to tell the other a secret. This will always get them giggling:

                  Posing Idea 2 Posing Idea 3

                  Another tip: If you’re photographing just one child, ask them to tell you about a subject they love. My son will talk for hours about anything Star Wars or Marvel. And I can ask my daughter her math questions for a range of reactions.

                  Basically, do anything to distract the kids or get a reaction – then be ready with your camera to capture the moment.

                  7. Enhance the colors in editing

                  The best autumn portraits – including my own! – go through some sort of editing process. Now, the editing program you use doesn’t really matter; Lightroom is great, as is Adobe Camera Raw, Capture One, Luminar AI, ON1 Photo RAW. Even free programs such as RawTherapee can fit the bill.

                  And you don’t need to be an expert editor to make your fall portraits shine. For the photos in this article, I actually kept the editing quite simple; aside from some little exposure and contrast tweaks, I went to the HSL panel in Adobe Camera Raw and saturated my Reds, Greens and Yellows. This really brought some extra punch to the images:

                  before and after editing fall portrait

                  Of course, editing is mostly about personal preference, so feel free to experiment like crazy. I do recommend you boost the colors a little bit, if possible; that way, you can emphasize those gorgeous fall hues.

                  Fall portrait photography tips: final words

                  Well, there you have it:

                  7 fun tips to enhance your autumn portraits. The next time you’re out shooting, try a tip or two – I guarantee you’ll see some great results!

                  Now over to you:

                  Which of these tips do you like best? Do you have any fall portrait photography tips of your own? Share them in the comments below!

                  Table of contents

                  Portrait Photography

                  • GENERAL
                    • 15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
                    • 10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
                    • How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
                    • 10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography
                    • 5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
                    • Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
                    • 8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
                    • How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
                    • The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
                    • 10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
                    • How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
                  • PREPARATION
                    • Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
                    • 8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
                    • Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
                    • How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
                    • 5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
                    • 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
                    • How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
                    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
                    • How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
                    • The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
                    • How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
                  • SETTINGS
                    • The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
                    • How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
                    • How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
                    • Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
                    • Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
                    • 9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
                    • Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
                    • Shooting for HDR Portraiture
                    • How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
                    • How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
                  • LIGHTING
                    • 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
                    • Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
                    • How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
                    • Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
                    • 4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
                    • 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
                    • 3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
                    • 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
                    • How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits
                    • How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
                    • How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
                    • Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
                    • A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
                    • How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
                    • How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
                    • DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
                    • Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
                    • Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
                    • 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
                    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
                    • How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
                    • Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
                    • 5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
                    • Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
                    • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
                    • How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
                    • What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
                    • How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
                    • Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
                    • Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
                    • 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
                    • How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
                    • Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
                    • The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
                    • So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
                    • How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
                    • 3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
                    • How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
                    • Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
                    • What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
                    • How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
                    • Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
                    • 5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
                    • Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
                    • How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
                    • High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
                    • 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
                    • How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
                    • How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
                    • Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
                    • How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
                    • How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
                    • Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
                    • Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
                    • Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
                    • How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
                    • Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
                    • 5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
                    • A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
                    • Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
                    • A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
                    • Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
                    • How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
                    • A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
                    • Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
                    • Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
                    • Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
                    • How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
                    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography
                    • Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather
                    • How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
                    • How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
                  • POSING
                    • Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
                    • Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
                    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
                    • Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
                    • How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
                    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
                    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
                    • Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
                    • How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
                    • Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
                    • How to Pose People for Headshots
                    • Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
                    • 20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
                    • How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
                    • Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
                    • Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
                    • Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
                    • Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
                    • Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
                    • Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
                    • 3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
                    • What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
                    • Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
                    • Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
                    • A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
                    • Tips for Posing Men
                  • COMPOSITION
                    • 6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
                    • 6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
                    • How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
                    • How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
                    • How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
                    • How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
                    • 3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
                    • Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
                    • Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
                    • How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
                    • How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
                  • GEAR
                    • Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
                    • Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
                    • 3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
                    • Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
                    • 3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
                    • Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
                    • Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
                    • Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out
                    • Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
                    • How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
                    • Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
                  • ADVANCED GUIDES
                    • 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
                    • Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
                    • 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
                    • 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
                    • 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
                    • Tips for Doing Fall Portraits

                    • 6 Tips for Photographing Large People
                    • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
                    • How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
                    • Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
                    • Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
                    • Self Portrait Photography Tips
                    • What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
                    • 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
                    • 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
                    • 15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
                    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
                    • 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
                    • 5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
                    • Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
                    • Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
                    • How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
                    • The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
                    • 6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
                    • 3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
                    • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
                    • Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
                    • 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
                    • 10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
                    • 7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
                    • 3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
                    • The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
                    • Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
                    • Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
                    • 6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
                    • 7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
                    • 7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
                    • How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
                    • 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
                    • 5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
                    • Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
                    • 7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
                    • Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
                    • Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
                    • 3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
                    • 5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
                    • 3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
                    • The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
                    • 5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
                    • 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
                    • Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
                  • CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
                    • How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
                    • How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
                    • How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
                    • How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
                    • How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
                    • Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
                    • 5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
                    • How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
                    • Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
                    • Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
                    • Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
                    • How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $ 10
                    • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
                    • Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
                    • 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
                    • How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
                  • POST-PROCESSING
                    • 11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
                    • Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
                    • How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
                    • How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
                    • How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
                    • How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
                    • Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
                    • 3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
                    • How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
                    • Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
                    • How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
                    • How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
                    • How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
                    • How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
                    • How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
                    • Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
                    • How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
                    • Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
                    • How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
                    • Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
                    • 3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
                    • How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
                    • 5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
                    • Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
                    • 3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
                    • Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
                    • How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
                    • Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
                    • 5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
                  • BUSINESS
                    • Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
                    • How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
                  • INSPIRATION
                    • 5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
                    • DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
                    • 21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
                    • 24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
                    • 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
                    • 18 Stunning Self Portraits
                    • Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
                    • 11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
                    • Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
                    • Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
                    • 21 Spooky Portraits
                    • Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
                    • 12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
                    • Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
                    • Triptych Portrait Series
                    • 8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
                    • An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
                    • Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
                    • 21 Fun Images of People Laughing
                  • RESOURCES
                    • Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
                    • The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
                    • The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
                    • The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
                    • Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
                    • People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox

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                  The post 7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.


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                  7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography

                  22 Sep

                  The post 7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

                  7 tips for crystal ball photography

                  Glass ball photography is a fantastic way to create compelling images, the kind that will leave your audience both wowed and curious.

                  But how do glass ball photos work? How do you set up beautiful images? And how do you use a simple crystal ball to capture such striking effects?

                  In this article, I share everything you need to get started, including a lensball recommendation, plenty of tips, and even a few crystal ball photography ideas.

                  Let’s dive right in.

                  Doing Crystal Ball Refraction Photography - house inside glass ball

                  How does glass ball photography work?

                  Glass ball photography, also known as crystal ball photography, uses refraction to capture unique images. A crystal ball (lensball) is placed in front of a scene; the scene is then refracted in the ball. Thanks to the magic of physics, you end up with an inverted image in the ball, which you can then capture with your camera.

                  As the photographer, you have ultimate control over your lensball image. For instance, by repositioning the ball (and by repositioning the camera with respect to the ball), you’ll capture different perspectives. You can also adjust the aperture for shallow depth of field effects (where the ball is framed by a blurry background), and you can change the distance from the camera to the ball for an interesting close-up effect. I discuss these techniques in greater detail below.

                  1. Consider flipping the upside down image

                  Thanks to refraction, the image inside a glass ball is flipped. Which means you have two options:

                  1. You can leave the inverted image and incorporate it into the composition. For instance, you can juxtapose the flipped image with the real scene in the background.
                  2. You can rotate the image during post-processing, so that the ball’s image appears right side up. Here, you may want to blur out the background with a wide aperture; that way, the flipped background isn’t obvious.

                  As you’ll see throughout this article, I use a mix of techniques. Sometimes, I like to keep the inverted crystal ball image. Other times, I flip the image for a less disorienting effect.

                  By the way, if you want to create a sharp, right side up image but you don’t want to do any rotation in post-processing, there is another option:

                  You can use the ball to photograph reflections. After all, reflections are naturally upside down, but the ball will invert them for a normal-looking result.

                  upside-down image in a crystal ball.

                  The image inside the ball will be upside down.

                  2. Get on a level with your subject

                  It might be tempting to put your glass ball on the ground and shoot into it, but this will actually cause significant distortion, plus it will create less compositional impact.

                  Instead, I recommend getting your ball up off the ground and on a level with your subject. The key here is to ensure your subject is centered in the ball, so feel free to move the setup around until you get the composition you’re after.

                  Note that you’ll want to keep your hands out of the frame, so you can either get up close and only photograph part of the ball, or you can perch the ball on an elevated platform, like a rock, a car, or a bench.

                  Of course, there are exceptions to this advice. Sometimes, it pays to place the ball on the ground, especially if you plan to photograph puddles or leaf beds.

                  3. Fill the glass ball with your subject

                  Unless you get close to your subject, it will appear very small inside the ball. So do what you can to close the distance, until your subject looms large in the ball (and consequently the frame).

                  This might involve careful planning or even some creativity. The ball is like a wide-angle lens, so try to think about your shot as if you’re photographing it at 16mm or so. Would the scene fill the frame at 16mm? If so, you’re golden!

                  cityscape crystal ball photography

                  In this photo, the cityscape is captured inside the ball.

                  4. Choose the correct lens

                  Yes, you can do glass ball photography with literally any lens, from ultra-wide to super-telephoto. But if you want to maximize the impact of the ball, I’d really recommend using a macro lens (or a telephoto lens with significant close-focusing capabilities).

                  Thanks to a macro lens, you can get close to the ball, which does two things:

                  1. It lets you increase the size of the ball in your shot (in other words, you can get close for lots of detail).
                  2. It helps you create strong background bokeh, which is key if you want to flip the image and keep it natural looking (discussed in Tip 1).

                  A wide-angle lens can work, too, but only if the scene allows it. I recommend experimenting with a macro lens and a wide-angle lens to determine the effect you like best.

                  5. Choose the correct aperture

                  The aperture influences the depth of field (i.e., the amount of the scene that’s in focus).

                  Set an ultra-wide aperture, and you’ll end up with a beautifully blurred background and a sharp foreground. Set an ultra-narrow aperture, and you’ll end up with a crisp foreground and a crisp background.

                  Neither is obviously better than the other; it just depends on the effect you want. If you’d prefer to create a blurry background (for example, you want to flip the image without a disorienting result), you might try using an aperture of f/4 or so. This will generally blur out the background while creating a sharp image inside the ball.

                  But be sure to review the image on your LCD afterward to make sure you get the result you want. If you go too wide, even the ball will be blurred, and everything will become an out-of-focus mess. Also, the depth of field depends on other factors as well, such as the distance between the lensball and the camera, so experimentation is always a good idea.

                  lensball close up

                  6. Find a safe place to position the ball

                  This is very important, especially if you are photographing from a high vantage point. Balls are, well, balls, which means that they like to roll, and you certainly don’t want your crystal ball rolling off a bench (or worse, a building). Best case scenario, it’ll end up with scratches – and worst case scenario, it’ll smash and you’ll need to buy a new one.

                  That’s why I recommend putting the ball on a flat surface, and a crevice is better (if you can find one). Place the ball carefully, then let it sit for a few seconds. Even if the ball seems stable, keep your (or a friend’s) hands nearby, and watch it like a hawk, especially on windy days. You do not want the ball to blow off in the middle of a photo!

                  If you can’t find a good resting place, you might just ask a friend to hold the ball for you. Or, with some practice, you can hold the ball yourself (though this is always tricky; unless you’re working with a tripod, you’ll need to hold the ball in one hand while focusing and firing the shutter with the other!).

                  using reflections for a natural result

                  In this photo of the Taj Mahal, there is a reflection in the background, and this reflected image is in fact upside down.

                  7. Make sure your subject is well-lit

                  Pretty much every photo can benefit from a well-lit subject, but it’s especially important for crystal ball photography.

                  Why? A strongly lit subject will shine through the ball while minimizing reflections. (Yes, those pesky reflections that come from in front of the ball and can show unwanted elements such as the camera lens!)

                  That’s why I recommend you photograph with the sun behind you and striking your subject directly. Alternatively, you can photograph during the blue hour or at night, but aim to photograph buildings with brightly lit facades.

                  (On the other hand, reflections can create interesting effects, so don’t be afraid to try out different lighting scenarios if you’re feeling creative.)

                  Glass ball photography vs standard photography

                  Are you wondering whether it makes sense to pursue glass ball photography? After all, do you really want to play around with a lensball when you could be capturing a beautiful wide-angle shot of the same scene?

                  In this section, I’ve put together a quick list of pros and cons – which will help you decide whether crystal ball photography makes sense for you.

                  Glass ball pros

                  • A glass ball is cheaper than a lens and allows you to create a unique fisheye effect
                  • A ball offers flexibility; you can move it to different positions in your scene
                  • You can use a large aperture in conjunction with the ball to create bokeh
                  • Scenes created with a crystal ball often have a more artistic feel
                  • The ball creates a natural frame for your scene

                  Glass ball cons

                  • Larger glass balls are heavy to carry (in an already heavy camera bag)
                  • You need a macro lens to get the best results
                  • The edge of a glass ball produces distortion
                  • Getting a sharp image inside the ball can be difficult
                  • The image in the ball is upside down, which gives you another problem to contend with

                  In fact, here’s a quick illustration of a crystal ball effect. First, we have a standard wide-angle image of a scene:

                  A wide angle photo of a famous road junction in Shanghai.

                  And here’s the same scene, but shot with a glass ball:

                  Lensball road junction

                  What do you think? Which shot do you prefer? The choice to use a glass ball is yours to make, though I highly recommend trying it out. Personally, I feel the pros majorly outweigh the cons (plus, you’ve made it this far in the article, which means you know all sorts of helpful tips!)

                  If you find crystal balls too heavy to carry all the time, you can try scouting scenes in advance, then returning for a second visit with only the equipment you need to get your photo.

                  Glass ball photography: final words

                  Well, there you have it:

                  Plenty of tips to get started with crystal ball photography. You will, of course, need a crystal ball – which you can buy easily on Amazon for around $ 27 USD. Once the ball arrives, head to a local landmark and start experimenting. The list of subjects really is endless; you can start with a lone tree, a church, or even a cityscape scene.

                  Now over to you:

                  Have you tried lensball photography? Do you think you’ll start? Share your thoughts and images in the comments below!

                  Volcanic lake found in Indonesia in glass ball

                  Natural landscapes look great inside the ball. This is a volcanic lake found in Indonesia.

                  The post 7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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                  50mm Street Photography: What Makes It Great (+ Tips)

                  17 Sep

                  The post 50mm Street Photography: What Makes It Great (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

                  50mm street photography: what makes it great

                  There’s a longstanding debate about whether 50mm street photography is the right way to go, or if wider lenses are a better choice. Most people who practice street photography prefer lenses with a broader field of view like 35m or 28mm, but that doesn’t mean 50mm is useless. Far from it, in fact.

                  There are many good reasons to choose this focal length when shooting photos out on the street. Shooting with a 50mm lens also unlocks lots of photographic possibilities – along with adding some creative constraints – and the results you get just might be among your all-time favorite pictures.

                  Reasons to use a 50mm lens for street photography

                  The first lens I ever purchased for my DSLR was a 50mm f/1.8, and I still use that same lens today. It’s kind of a jack of all trades option, and it lets me get great shots in a variety of situations, especially when shooting with a full-frame camera.

                  I have since picked up a variety of other lenses but find myself returning to the classic “nifty fifty” time and again, especially for street photography. It has a charm and sense of character to it that other lenses can’t match, and it’s a great option for beginner street photographers who want to step up from their kit zoom lenses.

                  In other words: There are plenty of reasons to use a 50mm lens for street photography. Not convinced yet? Here are some of my favorite reasons to stick with a 50mm lens when shooting on the street, starting with:

                  1. 50mm helps isolate your subject

                  Man Playing Guitar
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/1250s | ISO 100

                  Streets are filled with activity: pedestrians, vehicles, tourists, animals, and much more. Shooting with a wide-angle lens makes it easy to capture an entire scene – but difficult to isolate a single subject.

                  On the other hand, when you use a 50mm lens, the field of view is constrained, so your subject is often isolated amidst the chaos, hustle, and bustle of daily life.

                  While you can get a similar effect with a wider lens simply by moving closer to your subject, you may feel like you are imposing on your subject’s personal space. Shooting with a 50mm lens is a great way to make your subject stand out while also maintaining a comfortable distance.

                  2. 50mm lenses have amazing depth of field

                  two students in conversation
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/1.8 | 1/3200s | ISO 100

                  Every lens adjusts the depth of field, but it’s much easier to manipulate DoF on a 50mm lens compared to a wider lens. To get pleasing foreground or background blur on a 28mm or 35mm lens, you need to close the distance between you and your subject or shoot with a very wide aperture, which tends to get expensive.

                  Moving near to your subjects is fine if you are comfortable getting close to strangers, but lots of street photographers like to leave a bit of distance. Thankfully, the large f/1.8 or f/1.4 aperture on most 50mm lenses lets you get sharp subjects and beautiful background blur even while standing back a bit. This depth of field can be the difference between a decent photo and a great one, and it’s a great tool to have in your back pocket for when you really need it.

                  Of course, longer focal lengths like 85mm or 105mm give you even more control over depth of field, but these options can isolate your subject a little too much. Whereas 50mm hits the sweet spot; it lets you get enough in the frame while also offering fine control over depth of field.

                  3. 50mm helps you capture fast action

                  50mm Street Photography Skateboard

                  Some might cry foul on this one, since any lens can capture fast action as long as you can get a quick shutter speed – but once again we find that a 50mm lens hits the sweet spot. As long as you have plenty of light and good autofocus, you can freeze a moment in time with any lens, but if you want to do this in a street setting, 50mm is the way to go.

                  With a wide f/1.4 or f/1.8 aperture, you can easily get a shutter speed of 1/500s or 1/1000s in most lighting conditions, which is plenty for stopping movement and eliminating motion blur. And the midrange focal length is perfect for honing in on one subject while not interfering with the movement that you are trying to capture.

                  If you want a bit more reach, you can shoot with a 50mm lens on a crop-sensor camera, which will put you even closer to the action when photographing, say, musicians or street performers. The 50mm focal length is ideal for freezing motion on a single subject and focusing your viewers’ attention, which is tricky when shooting with wider focal lengths.

                  4. 50mm gets you close to your subject

                  50mm Street Photography Sorority Rush
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/1250s | ISO 200

                  Here’s one of my favorite aspects of shooting with a 50mm lens:

                  It’s not really a wide-angle lens, but also not really a telephoto lens. It exists in the gray middle ground between those two extremes, and as such, lets you tap into the power of both. This means you can get up close and personal with subjects on the street without being too close, especially if you shoot with a crop-sensor camera. You can also stand back and give yourself some breathing room while getting near enough to make a personal image.

                  I’ve shot street photos with a variety of focal lengths and consistently found that 50mm strikes the best balance. Wider lenses capture entire scenes, while telephoto lenses are great for portraits. But 50mm lens lets you capture scenes that also feel personal by bringing you just close enough to your subject, and the results can be amazing.

                  5. 50mm gives you a unique perspective

                  Sidewalk Lamp
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8 | f/4.8 | 1/640s | ISO 200

                  While some people think the 50mm focal length is boring, I have found the opposite to be true, especially for shooting street photos.

                  When capturing the image above, I was on top of a three-story parking garage and shooting straight down to get a shot of the pathway light. While I was framing the shot, a pedestrian happened to walk through the image, and I got a picture that wouldn’t work at all with a wider or longer lens.

                  I frequently come across situations like this with 50mm lenses, where a wider focal length would ruin the shot. It’s this unique perspective that makes 50mm so good for street photography. You get a perspective that takes ordinary scenes and turns them into interesting, creative photo opportunities that can ignite your curiosity and inspire your imagination.

                  50mm street photography tips

                  When venturing out with your 50mm lens, it’s important to keep a few tips in mind. While each individual photographer has to find their own style, methods, and approach to photography, here are some lessons I have learned that will help you get better photos, consistently:

                  1. Don’t always shoot wide open

                  50mm Street Photography Sunrise silhouette
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/4 | 1/6000s | ISO 200

                  Wide-aperture lenses are outstanding photography tools, but when not used carefully, they can cause problems.

                  It’s tempting to shoot wide open at f/1.8, f/1.4, or even f/1.2 if your 50mm lens has that capability. But while the results can be sublime, there are a lot of reasons to stop down to f/2.8, f/4, or even smaller, especially when doing street photography.

                  For one, a smaller aperture gives you more wiggle room with depth of field, plus it results in better overall image sharpness. Street photographers often use zone focusing, which is extremely difficult when shooting at very wide apertures, especially on a 50mm lens.

                  Also, shooting wide open can occasionally give you too much background blur, to the point that it’s distracting or downright ugly. My rule of thumb is to use my 50mm lens one or two stops down from its widest aperture for most street shooting, then open it up all the way for those situations where you really need it.

                  2. Capture action through panning

                  bicycle panning
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/13 | 1/15s | ISO 100

                  If you really want to take your street photography to the next level, try some panning shots. This is a great way to capture motion using long shutter speeds, especially with a 50mm lens.

                  Start with a small aperture – try f/8 – and a relatively slow shutter speed, such as 1/30s. Then put your camera in continuous high-speed shooting mode, set your autofocus to AF-C instead of AF-S, and fire away as a cyclist, pedestrian, or automobile zooms past.

                  It might take a few tries to get the shot you want, but with a little practice, you will soon create works of street art that you will be proud to print and hang on the wall or share on social media.

                  3. Look for light and shadow

                  50mm Street Photography Fountain
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/4 | 1/800s | ISO 100

                  This tip isn’t specific to a 50mm lens, but in my experience, it’s easier with one. You see, the constrained field of view at 50mm makes situations of light and shadow easier to find, since it forces your eye to look at a smaller portion of the world compared to a wider lens.

                  When shooting on the street, look for unique photo opportunities that use light and shadow in creative ways. Try shooting silhouettes or using backlighting to create interesting photo opportunities. Pay attention to the time of day and adjust your shooting accordingly. I really like going out in the early morning or late evening when the sun casts long shadows over everything; you can create amazing photos that you just can’t get at other times.

                  4. Capture moments, not people

                  50mm Street Photography Free Hugs
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/1250s | ISO 200

                  This is another tip that’s good for any street photography situation, but one that is often enhanced when shooting with a 50mm lens. Try to capture moments in time that display singular elements of humanity: purpose, decisiveness, intention, drive, and so on. Don’t just get shots of people standing around, wandering aimlessly, or sitting and staring at their phones. Look for emotions like love, caring, compassion, happiness, or fear.

                  Take pictures that tell a story, such as the one above, which I shot on a college campus on Valentine’s Day. A 50mm lens is ideal for these human moments – you can stand back a bit, get your subjects sharp and focused, and create a sense of three-dimensional space through careful use of aperture and depth of field. This elevates your street photos from flat, boring images of random passersby to slices of life that showcase the best of what humans have to offer in this world.

                  50mm street photography: conclusion

                  50mm Street Photography Bicycle
                  Nikon D200 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/16 | 1/20s | ISO 100

                  Street photography is all about personal choice and finding a style that works for you. While the 50mm street photography isn’t the first option for many people, it has some distinct advantages and unique qualities that can help you create impressive images and develop your own artistic vision.

                  If you have never tried shooting street photos with a 50mm lens, give it a try. I think you’ll like what you see!

                  Now over to you:

                  What do you think of 50mm street photography? Have you tried it? Do you have any images you’re proud of? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

                  50mm Street Photography Conversation
                  Nikon D7100 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/2.8 | 1/8000s | ISO 1100

                  The post 50mm Street Photography: What Makes It Great (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.


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                  10 Stage Photography Tips (for Beautiful Images)

                  09 Sep

                  The post 10 Stage Photography Tips (for Beautiful Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

                  10 stage photography tips for beautiful photos

                  Perhaps it’s time to enter a new stage in your photographic journey: stage photography, where you capture performers on the stage at concerts, plays, dance recitals, and more.

                  This genre combines some of the skills of studio photography, portraiture, and even sports photography. When light is often dim and the action fast, you will be challenged to make sharp shots and need to understand your camera controls well. Stage photography will test your skills, but when you nail a great shot, the results can be very rewarding.

                  Let’s cover ten tips to help you achieve that command performance.

                  1. Get permission

                  Here’s a key thing to remember when you are shooting a stage performance: The show is on the stage. You are not the show. If your presence disrupts the performers, distracts the audience, or otherwise draws attention to you, you are not only being a nuisance, you run the risk of being thrown out. And even if that doesn’t happen, it is unlikely you will be invited back and other photographers may then be prohibited from future shows.

                  Don’t be that guy.

                  dancers on the stage
                  If I had to shoot the whole performance from the vantage point of the first shot (above, top), my photos wouldn’t have turned out well. Even cropping in on the second version, I still didn’t have the full backdrop behind the dancers. Fortunately, I always attend the dress rehearsal (which I strongly advocate!) and can position myself pretty much wherever I like with no fear of being a distraction to the performers or the audience.

                  It is a bad idea to just show up at a performance with a professional-looking camera and long lenses without prior permission. You may not be permitted inside, and if you are, you could be asked to leave your expensive equipment behind. If you do somehow slip inside and get caught later, there will be an ugly scene. And if you somehow do shoot the whole show and later want to post your shots, you risk getting sued because you didn’t have rights to make photos…which is…well…let’s not go there.

                  Again, don’t be that guy – period.

                  2. Be a “photo ninja”

                  When you do stage photography, “minimal disruption” should be your motto. Here are a few things you can do to get your shots while staying invisible to the performers and audience.

                  Grease play
                  These shots date back to 2003, when I was shooting with my first digital camera, a Nikon Coolpix 950. It was a simple 1.92 MP point-and-shoot camera. I got there early, sat in the first row, and used the swivel-body LCD while holding the camera in my lap. There was minimal audience disruption and I captured some decent shots.
                  • Dress in dark clothing. Because the house lights will generally be off during a stage performance, wearing dark clothing will help you hide in the shadows and be less noticeable.
                  • Be stealthy and silent. Turn off all camera distractions, including beeping, lights, and perhaps even your rear LCD screen. If your camera has a silent shutter mode, then use it. If you must chimp your shots, do it between acts and in a way that your screen isn’t visible to the audience or performers. Do not stand between the audience and the performance, even if that gets you the best angle.
                  • Never use flash unless you have obtained prior permission from the stage manager beforehand.
                  • Shoot the dress rehearsal when possible. Assuming you can do it, this is the best option. Without an audience, you will have much more freedom to roam, find good angles, perhaps use flash if you check first, and sometimes get multiple “takes” of the same scene, dance, or musical number. Concerts might be the exception to this rule, as the dynamics of the performers and audience reaction to a live performance will be lacking at a dress rehearsal and that typically shows up in the shots. For the most part, however, shooting a dress rehearsal will greatly expand what you can do.

                  3. Know the show

                  As with any kind of action photography, knowing what is going to happen in advance will help you anticipate and get the best shots. Read the program, talk to the stage manager, know the plot of the play, and do whatever else you can to better know and plan your shots.

                  actors playing Cinderella
                  Know the show. If you’re familiar with the story and plot, you’ll know the key points to photograph. (I suspect you’ll know immediately what the story is here without me telling you.)

                  4. Do a “site survey”

                  If possible, go beforehand to the theater or venue when the event will take place. Take your camera and find the best vantage points.

                  Can you shoot from those spots and still be non-disruptive? Are there multiple places you can shoot from, and can you move from one to another without attracting attention? How long or wide a lens will you need to get good shots from those spots? Might there be someone there to show you the lighting before the show so you can gain an idea of what you’ll encounter?

                  If you can’t be at the location in advance, at least get there as early as you can on the day of the performance. Winging it while the show is already underway will almost always adversely impact the quality of your shots.

                  5. Take the right equipment

                  the magic lantern
                  A long lens can get you tight shots like this one (taken at 200mm). There have been many times when a 100-400mm lens would not have been overkill.

                  The two biggest challenges in stage photography typically are:

                  1. Getting close enough
                  2. Having enough light to work with

                  And taking the right gear can help. A camera featuring a strong low-light performance with minimal noise will be your best bet. A fast f/2.8 lens makes a difference, too.

                  I shoot Canon, and the two lenses I typically take when doing stage photography are the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS zoom and the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS zoom. There have been many cases where I’ve wished for a 100-400mm zoom.

                  Your focal length needs will be dictated by your distance from the stage. Closer is almost always better, and if you can be stageside (and not violate the “minimal disruption” rule), that is almost always best.

                  dancer reaching out
                  Talk to the stage manager beforehand, and you might get permission to shoot backstage from the wings. You can sometimes get some unique angles the audience doesn’t see.

                  I should also address the readers who might be parents going to their child’s play, dance recital, or other stage performances. It’s likely you’ll be taking a point-and-shoot camera with no interchangeable lenses and shooting from wherever your seat might be in the theater. There’s nothing wrong with that. Hopefully, your camera has good optical zoom and not too much shutter lag. Get there early and sit in the front row if you can. If you don’t need to sit in your theater seat, maybe you can find a better spot to shoot from and be less noticeable.

                  kids on the stage
                  When little Johnny or Emma makes their stage appearance in their cute little costume, a parent will find it hard to not stand up and do what’s necessary to get the shot. Please don’t be that parent. Try to be as unobtrusive as possible while you make your photos.

                  Glean what you can from this article, and most importantly, be as unobtrusive as possible while capturing your photos. I know you’ll want to stand up when little Johnny takes the stage in his cute little character costume, and you may forget to turn off the flash and blind everyone with a burst of light in the darkened theater. My simple advice: Don’t be that parent. With luck, a pro will be shooting from the sidelines. Look for that person and give them your e-mail. If you’re nice to them, there’s a good chance they will send you a stellar shot of Johnny.

                  creative stage photography examples
                  Play with camera settings like a wide aperture and selective focus and look for reflections on the stage to make your shots more interesting. Don’t make the shot everyone would make. Work at it!

                  6. Use the right settings and technique

                  I already mentioned that one of the most challenging things in stage photography is working with low light (especially when action is involved). You’re also likely to be shooting handheld. Maintaining a fast enough shutter speed in low light will require you to either open up your aperture (while being mindful of depth of field), raise your ISO (while being mindful of noise levels), or both.

                  dancers running under a rug
                  Dark backgrounds and spotlighted subjects: sometimes the lighting will be dramatic with a wide dynamic range. Understand your metering modes and when you might want to use center-weighted or even spot metering.

                  The following camera settings work well for me in most cases, though you’ll need to make adjustments depending primarily on how much light you have to work with. It is not unusual to have the lights go from very bright to very dim as a scene changes, the actor walks to a different part of the stage, or (at a rock concert) the lights flash on and off while changing colors. So consider these stage photography settings as a starting point.

                  • Aperture Priority mode – (Av on Canon, A on Nikon, varies on other cameras.) You will usually want your aperture as wide open as possible while still getting adequate depth of field.
                  • Auto ISO – Let the ISO “float” to deal with various lighting changes. If you find your ISO pretty much stays the same through the performance, you could set it at that spot, but always trying to keep it as low as possible. Learn when your camera produces unacceptable noise and set the Auto ISO top limits just under that value. If you don’t do this, you could later find that the ISO went much higher (and that all your shots are very noisy!).
                  • In Aperture Priority, your shutter speed will also float. The amount of action on stage, the focal length of the lens you’re using, and the speed needed to freeze action will dictate what is acceptable. In a play where the actors are standing still and speaking you might get away with 1/30s if you have an image-stabilized lens or in-body image stabilization in the camera. If you’re shooting ballet dancers spinning and leaping and want to freeze them, you might need 1/500s or more to get the job done. See if your camera lets you set a minimal shutter speed when using Aperture Priority.
                  • Focus mode – This will again depend on the amount of action you’re dealing with. If the action is slow, single-shot focus is fine. (Remember to turn off the focus lock beep!). If you must track faster movement, continuous focusing can help a lot. Newer cameras may have eye-tracking focus, which can work really well – except when multiple people are performing and in close proximity. Then the autofocus may become confused about which person to lock in on. Learn your camera’s focusing modes so you can choose what is best for the given situation.
                  • Metering – This will depend on the lighting you encounter. Usually, I stick to full Evaluative metering, and the camera does a pretty good job. Sometimes, however, when the performer might be brightly lit by a spotlight and the background is very dark, the camera can be fooled and the performer will be overexposed. In those cases, center-weighted metering or even spot metering can be a better choice.
                  • Commit it to Memory – I often store different camera settings in each of my camera’s memory modes (C1, C2, C3), so I can quickly change complex settings with the turn of a dial when the situation changes.

                  7. Composition is always key

                  As with all photography, composition is king. Use good compositional practices; remember the rule of thirds, leading lines, the rule of odds, and so on. And remember to check your borders for distracting elements.

                  Shoot wide establishing shots that show the entire stage, then go in for mid and close shots that highlight one actor or performer. Get in tight on facial expressions to capture the emotions of the performer. Don’t overlook really tight shots of details like the shoes of a ballet dancer “on pointe,” or a rock guitarist’s hands really “shredding his ax.”

                  girls doing ballet
                  Sometimes you’ll need to go wide.
                  actors and dancers
                  Medium shots are great when two people are interacting.
                  actors with emotion
                  Tighter shots let you catch the drama and emotion on actors’ faces.
                  close-up shots of actors on stage
                  ballerina feet pointing
                  Detail shots can tell the story. Being “on pointe” is a hallmark of ballet, and these images of dancers on their toes make for iconic photos.

                  8. Work with the light

                  Stage lighting can be tricky, especially when you’re trying to photograph with good color accuracy. Various lighting types will have different Kelvin temperatures. Mood is often created with color gels and other lighting color control.

                  Sometimes you will want to try and correct for these color changes, sometimes you might want to capture the scene as close to the original color as possible (i.e., a deep blue cast designed to simulate a night scene). And other times, you might want to enhance the color or take it in a different direction.

                  Now, there is one key item that will give the creative control you need:

                  Shoot in RAW format! There are a lot of reasons you should be shooting in RAW, but stage photography might be right at the top of the list. During the shoot, you do not want to be adjusting white balance or trying to guess what might be best. Shooting in RAW means that the white balance adjustments can be saved for later in editing. I typically just leave the White Balance setting on Auto and disregard it while photographing. Later, when editing, I can adjust it however I like. If a series of shots were all made under the same lighting conditions, I can adjust the first shot, select all the subsequent shots, and sync the white balance to that first adjusted shot. Bazinga!

                  image with corrected white balance
                  White balance can be tricky given the different lighting types and colored gels used in the theater. Always shoot in RAW format and you can fine-tune the while balance when you edit.
                  Dancers in different styles
                  Left to right: Original white balance; Lightroom-corrected RAW image; black and white version. Which is correct? When shooting in RAW, you get to decide when editing!

                  There is one thing to keep in mind here: Don’t rely on the LCD screen to judge white balance. It will always show a JPEG image with the camera’s white balance pick, and since you’ll be shooting in RAW, you can make dramatic changes afterward.

                  For example, in one theater the stage lighting was very warm. I put the camera on Tungsten white balance so the playback on the LCD looked better, but I still shot in RAW. Later, when editing, the Tungsten setting did give better skin tones, so I used that as a starting point. Had it not worked out, however, I could’ve edited my white balance for a completely different result.

                  Artistic color gel
                  Sometimes the scene might start or end with creative lighting. Always be ready to take advantage of creative looks the lighting designer might serve up!

                  Once, a friend filled in for me at a graduation ceremony on a theater stage. Then they sent me the images for editing, and I saw they’d shot the whole ceremony in JPEG. Arghh! The theater had mixed lighting, some tungsten, some fluorescent. The JPEG images had very little potential for adjustment and the skin tones were awful. I even thought about converting the entire set to black and white.

                  9. Tell the story

                  I don’t know if every picture tells a story, but when photographing a play, a dance recital, a performance, or a concert, there is definitely a story on stage. It’s your job as the photographer to tell that story with your photos. Here are some tips that will help:

                  • Know the story – If you’re attending a play, know the plot beforehand. The same is true of a dance. Almost all ballet is built around a story. Modern dance numbers usually are designed to evoke a meaning and a mood. A rock guitarist will evoke a mood with their music and the song lyrics may tell a story. How can you bring out those stories in your photos? By capturing expressions, movement, peak action?
                  • To freeze or to blur? – Not all motion needs to be frozen. Letting moving people blur can add to the feeling of action in a scene.
                  • The mood of the light – Good photographers learn to “see the light” and know how its color, direction, softness, harshness, and other properties affect the mood and story. Good theatrical lighting designers know this, too, and work hard to light scenes to evoke the right mood and enhance the story. Unlike a studio photo session where you as the photographer might set the lights, when photographing a stage performance you will work with someone else’s lighting choices. Pay close attention to what they’ve done and try to capture it in your images.
                  actors happily on stage
                  Capture the shots that tell the story. I’m guessing you can identify the story here with a glance!
                  frog leaping through the air
                  I wanted to freeze this leap. Even with an ISO of 2000, I had to shoot at 1/160s, though I could have opened the lens up to the full f/2.8 setting for a shorter shutter speed.
                  creative stage photography images with motion blur
                  Here, I wanted some motion blur; the hand motion in an image from Grease, the attack of the flying monkeys in the Wizard of Oz, and Don Quixote tilting at the windmills. For the bottom right photo, I wasn’t necessarily going for motion blur and was happy to make a fairly sharp shot at a slow 1/13s. Score one for the Canon R6 with both IBIS and lens stabilization.

                  10. Enhance with good editing

                  In the film days, after a shoot, all you had were the unprocessed negatives. There were many steps before you could look at your image as a finished print and many opportunities for creative adjustments along the way. Today, with digital cameras, we simply click the shutter and can immediately view the result on an LCD screen.

                  black and white glow images
                  So you don’t like to edit, huh? That’s the only way to get this kind of looks. The dancers in their flowing gowns and graceful movement made me think of angels, so when editing, I went for that feeling. How’d I do?

                  My opinion is that too many photographers are content with the straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) image; after that initial click, they believe their work is done. Many skilled photo instructors will preach the importance of “getting it right in camera” and express a distinct distaste for having to spend time behind a computer screen.

                  As you may have guessed, I scoff at these folks. Ansel Adams didn’t shoot digital, but I think his quote is worthy of consideration:

                  The negative is the score, and the print is the performance.”

                  Ansel Adams

                  My personal belief is that you’re not done with an image until you’re done, and that includes editing. This might be especially true when taking photos of stage performances. You will not have control of the scene that plays out before you, you will have limited options for changing your vantage point or perspective, you will work with someone else’s often fast-changing lighting, the scene may be dimly lit and you will struggle to juggle shutter speed, depth of field, and camera noise. There are also no do-overs. If the shot isn’t everything it might be, editing can be the fix. Even if it is a very good SOOC shot, might some editing make it even better?

                  (You did shoot RAW, right? So don’t tell me you don’t edit; you have to do at least some editing with a Raw image.)

                  Okay, I will turn off the rant. Suffice it to say, I personally believe editing your stage photography images is almost mandatory if you want them to shine.

                  ballet posters
                  You’ll also need editing and design skills if you want to do these kinds of things with your images. I’ve been shooting this Boise, Idaho troupe for years. I make posters for them, they keep inviting me back. It’s a good relationship.

                  Stage photography tips: final words

                  cast sitting together

                  How could I write an article on stage photography and not include a famous quote by this guy? You might have heard of him:

                  All the world’s a stage, and all the men and women merely players.

                  William Shakespeare

                  In this play we call life, you’ve been cast in the role of the photographer. Now go expand your talents and abilities. Hold a mirror up to the other players with the medium of stage photography!

                  warm up routine
                  Honing your skills as a stage photographer will keep you on your toes.

                  Stage photography FAQs

                  If I only remember one thing about stage photography, what should it be?

                  The show is on stage. You are not the show. If you are a distraction to the performers or the audience, you are not welcome, may be thrown out, certainly won’t be invited back, and will probably prevent other photographers from being asked to photograph performances. Get good shots, but be unobtrusive.

                  What are the biggest challenges in doing stage photography?

                  Getting close enough. Working with dim and frequently changing light. A long lens or a good vantage point can help with the former. A fast lens (i.e., f/2.8 or faster) and a camera with a good low-light performance can help with the latter.

                  How can I make more compelling stage photos?

                  Know the story. Tell the story. Know what the play, dance, performance, song, or whatever you’re photographing is about. Work to capture that story in your images.

                  What should my camera settings be for stage photography?

                  This will vary depending on the lighting, type of show, amount of action on the stage, and other factors, but for starters: Aperture Priority (Av, A), Auto ISO (with an upper limit), Continuous/Servo Focus, Evaluative metering (though center-weighted or even spot works for certain situations).

                  How can I best deal with white balance issues when photographing under different lights and colored gels/lights?

                  Always shoot in RAW format and be prepared to edit your shots. A RAW file will allow you to adjust the white balance after the shoot, open your creative possibilities, allow some rescue of overexposed and underexposed images, and help you better deal with image noise.

                  The post 10 Stage Photography Tips (for Beautiful Images) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


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                  11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results)

                  02 Sep

                  The post 11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

                  11 composition tips for food photography

                  Looking to improve your food photography compositions? You’ve come to the right place.

                  In this article, I’m going to share my favorite composition tips – for arranging and styling food, yes, but also for adding creative touches that’ll give you an ultra-professional look.

                  So whether you’re a complete beginner just starting out in food photography, or you’re a more experienced photographer looking for some composition-enhancing tips, this guide will help you on your way.

                  Starting with tip #1:

                  1. Change your angle for an unusual perspective

                  Beginning food photographers often shoot food straight on, as if they’re sitting or standing at the table with their camera.

                  And while such an approach can work, it can also fall a little flat. Instead, consider a different perspective, one that will enhance the most interesting parts of the food or highlight key elements.

                  For instance, a straight-down approach – where you shoot from overhead, with the sensor parallel to the plate – is a great way to showcase all of the food, plus it can add some artistic flair.

                  Alternatively, shooting from low down or the side gives the viewer a new angle to consider and will highlight the food’s details.

                  raspberries on black

                  2. Consider orientation (portrait vs landscape)

                  As you’re undoubtedly aware, you can photograph food in either portrait or landscape orientation – but don’t just stick your camera in one position and call it a day.

                  Instead, think carefully about which orientation best highlights the food and best frames your composition.

                  Personally, I think landscape-oriented images tend to look great for showing off beautiful compositions. But try rotating your camera and see if a vertical shot might work well, too. You may find that a vertical composition actually enhances the photo by eliminating distracting elements around the central theme.

                  cookies set out on cloth food photography composition

                  3. Use the rule of thirds for well-organized food compositions

                  It’s a photography classic, but for a good reason. So if you’re struggling to come up with beautiful compositions, why not try the rule of thirds?

                  You see, the rule of thirds works by dividing your image into thirds (via gridlines). It suggests you align your main subject and other compositional elements with these gridlines; that way, the entire image feels both balanced and dynamic.

                  For example, I placed the bowls along gridlines here for a pleasing composition:

                  bowls carefully arranged composition

                  4. Break the rule of thirds

                  It is important to note that the rule of thirds is only a food photography guideline, not a true rule – so you certainly don’t need to stick to its terms.

                  After all, rules are there to be broken! Don’t be afraid to move food items around and test out different compositions. Try putting your main subject in different locations, away from the rule of thirds gridlines and intersections, and see what you get. Who knows; maybe you’ll hit upon a composition you really love!

                  Pro tip: Positioning the main subject dead-center or slightly off-center generally works well. It’ll lead the viewer’s eye around the image and then toward the main subject:

                  the rule of thirds broken with centered bread

                  5. Consider adding elements to the composition

                  The objects you include alongside your main subject are essential to creating beautiful compositions.

                  Of course, it’s important to have a main food element – but you should also add extra items to elevate the scene beyond the ordinary.

                  Some examples of items to include could be additional food pieces, garnishes to brighten the main subject, cutlery such as a knife and fork, and even cooking utensils.

                  plates of food
                  If you are shooting dishes around the main subject, you will need to go wide enough to capture everything in the frame.

                  6. Add props

                  In the previous tip, I recommended including little extra elements, such as cutlery or garnishes.

                  But if you want to really double down and create unique images, you might also try including props. I’m not talking about bits of food, but rather objects, such as bowls, plants, jars, rustic boxes, and the like.

                  Aim to arrange the items so you showcase – rather than obscure! – your main dish.

                  7. Re-arrange the elements (beyond the normal)

                  Often, the natural way to arrange food elements is as a chef or waiter would:

                  Food on the plate, knife to one side, a glass in the back, etc.

                  But to create a more striking composition, I suggest you mix it up. Move some of the items to a different place in the frame. For instance, you might move the knife out in front of the food, as I did here:

                  toast food photography composition

                  Really, the important thing is to experiment; test out different compositions, use your creativity, and then capture the shot you like best!

                  8. Use patterns

                  As a food photographer, patterns are your friend.

                  And while you don’t always need patterns in your photos, you can use them to creatively highlight your food. For instance, you might lay out a batch of baked goods in an eye-catching arrangement, or you might circle your main subject with a selection of different-colored fruits.

                  The key is to create a sequence or structure that creatively emphasizes the main dish. That way, the viewer knows where to look – and is also impressed by your artistry.

                  9. Use negative space

                  Here’s another tried and tested food photography composition technique:

                  Use negative space in your image.

                  Negative space refers to the part of your frame that is free from any elements or props, like a bare table, a stretch of cloth, etc.

                  And while additional elements and props can look nice, negative space is a great way to encourage the viewer to focus on the main dish without the added distraction that props bring. Plus, more negative space makes for more simplified compositions, which is generally a good thing.

                  stack of bread

                  10. Shoot specific parts of the food

                  Not all of your food has to be in each image.

                  So instead of zooming out to shoot the entire dish, get close and capture parts of the food. Emphasize mouthwatering details that’ll look great to the viewer, but make sure to carefully structure your compositions; the goal is to make the main subject stand out against the rest of the shot.

                  11. Use natural and artificial light

                  Did you know that light can significantly affect your food photography compositions? It’s true. Light can add volume, create shadows, and emphasize (or de-emphasize) different elements.

                  So before getting started, you will need to think about the light that is present in your food photography location. Observe how the light falls and ask yourself: does it look natural? Is the light too bright or too dark?

                  Strong direct light, for instance, can ruin your compositions by making the food too bright. So when faced with direct light, try moving your food to avoid this harsh light, or place your entire composition in the shade to create a more balanced image.

                  In situations where there is not enough natural light, you will need to brighten up your compositions another way. One solution is artificial lighting; consider using a flash, or even a lamp or fixed room lights, to add more brightness and lighten the subject.

                  bowls arranged on blue
                  Moving food and drink into the shade can eliminate the harsh shadows produced by direct sunlight.

                  Food photography composition: conclusion

                  Food photography composition can make or break your images of food, so you should pay careful attention to these tips.

                  That said, remember to be creative; if you don’t like one of these tips, ignore it! Food composition and styling is a personal choice and is entirely subjective. There is no right or wrong way of photographing things – so be sure to balance these tips with your own vision. That way, you can create images that look great, and that you love.

                  Now over to you:

                  Which of these composition tips is your favorite? Do you have any tips of your own to add? Share them in the comments below!

                  The post 11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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                  11 Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners (How to Get Started)

                  24 Aug

                  The post 11 Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners (How to Get Started) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.

                  11 photography tips for absolute beginners

                  So you’ve decided to take up photography – but how do you begin? How do you deal with gear, camera settings, and Photoshop? More importantly, how do you start getting beautiful pictures, fast?

                  In this article, I aim to share plenty of advice for photography beginners, including:

                  • How to buy the right gear
                  • Tips for improving your skills ASAP
                  • How to choose the right camera settings
                  • Where to start with post-processing

                  Are you ready to jumpstart your photography hobby? Let’s dive right in!

                  1. Research gear (but don’t go overboard)

                  Your gear does not make you a good photographer.

                  In fact, if you are just starting out, a top of the line camera will not only be a waste of money, but it will also make your learning process trickier. A bit like buying a race car to learn to drive.

                  When you want to buy gear – whether it’s your first camera/lens/accessory or your tenth – do your research. It’s helpful to take a look at some photography forums or articles for camera recommendations. Once you find something that sounds viable and fits your budget, read professional and user reviews to determine whether it’ll satisfy your needs.

                  man with a camera beginner

                  2. Take lots of photographs

                  “Your first ten thousand photographs are your worst.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

                  As with any skill, the more you practice, the better you get. So the quickest way to get better? Simply head out with a camera and start taking pictures.

                  Of course, knowledge does matter, but there’s something essential about holding a camera in your hands, looking through the viewfinder, and considering different compositions. Aim to spend at least a few hours every week behind the lens (and more is better!). It doesn’t necessarily matter what you shoot – as long as you’re shooting, you’re improving.

                  And don’t beat yourself up if your shots don’t turn out the way you’ve envisioned. Part of photography is about failing repeatedly; over time, you’ll learn how to get the result you want, and you’ll come home with more and more keepers.

                  3. Read the manual

                  Camera manuals are quite possibly the most boring thing you have ever read in your life, and reading the camera manual is certainly the most boring thing you’ll ever do in pursuit of photographic improvement.

                  That said, I suggest you do it anyway.

                  man reading a camera manual falling asleep

                  Camera manuals are not exactly a riveting read.

                  Why? It’s important to know how your camera actually works, especially in the beginning. And the information will become useful down the line, too. You’ll be out in the field and you’ll want to know how to change a particular setting; if you’ve read the manual thoroughly, you’ll be able to figure it out on the fly. On the other hand, if you haven’t read the manual, you’ll be forced to look up instructions on your phone, and by then your photo opportunity will likely have disappeared.

                  Of course, you don’t need to read the manual all at once. I recommend you place it where you can push through in small installments while you are killing time, such as the bathroom, the car, or at work during your lunch break.

                  4. Don’t start with workshops

                  So you’ve got the photography bug. You might be thinking, “Ooh! I’ll sign up to a bunch of workshops; that way, I can improve really fast.”

                  And workshops are great. But they tend to be geared more toward enthusiasts – photographers who understand the basics and are looking to level up their skills in composition, lighting, and advanced techniques. That’s why I don’t recommend going nuts with workshops right away. Instead, you should really start with the basics:

                  • How to operate your camera
                  • The meaning of different photography terminology
                  • How to determine the proper settings for the situation

                  Fortunately, you’ve already taken a step in the right direction, because you are currently reading one of the most useful photography sites on the internet. There are more tips and tutorials on this site than you will ever need, especially for a beginner. Once you get the hang of things, then you’ll have a better idea of the type of workshops that would suit you, and you might consider that route.

                  So I’m not saying that you shouldn’t do a workshop – just that you should wait until you know what suits your needs.

                  5. Connect with other photographers

                  Learning photography with others is often invaluable – whether you sign up to an online group or you join a local camera club.

                  For one, your photography will progress faster, plus it will be far more fun with the help of your fellow shutterbugs.

                  Man photographing with someone else

                  Connecting with other photographers is a great way to learn and get inspired.

                  Camera clubs often have monthly competitions and may organize photo tours, exhibitions, and other activities. Talking with knowledgeable photographers or even fellow beginners will not only inspire you, but also keep you motivated.

                  Also, sign up to some reputable photography newsletters and Facebook pages, or even reach out to photographers you admire. Most professional photographers don’t mind answering a few questions, as long as you are respectful, polite, and don’t demand too much of their time.

                  6. Try everything

                  This piece of advice is short and sweet.

                  While you may have taken up photography with a certain genre or subject in mind, it can be helpful to try all genres. You never know what you might have a knack for, or what you will learn along the way.

                  So shoot landscapes. Shoot portraits. Head out to the streets and do some urban photography. Find a beautiful flower and photograph close ups.

                  You never know; you might find a genre that you absolutely love and hadn’t ever considered.

                  7. Get feedback

                  Your friends and family may love you, but they will lie to you about your photography (and they may not even know what to look for). Unless you have a very honest friend or family member who actually knows a bit about art, it’s often more beneficial to get feedback from strangers.

                  Signing up to a photo sharing site where others can comment on your work will get you mostly honest feedback (sometimes brutally so). Years back, I posted the image below on a feedback site. I knew the image had faults, but I was keen to hear what someone else could point out and how they could help me improve.

                  woman standing on a cloud

                  Well, one fellow submitted a lengthy comment, basically pulling the image apart. He pointed out what seemed like several million faults, and he really went to town on it. But while the comments were painful and borderline unkind, it was useful advice that I could then apply to my next portrait photo shoot.

                  8. Enter free competitions

                  If you have money to spend and confidence in your work, by all means, enter some of the big competitions – even as a beginner. You wouldn’t be the first to take a major prize within the first few months of picking up a camera.

                  Even if you don’t want to spend money to enter competitions, there are plenty of free options. Throw in some images, see how the contest goes, and hey – maybe you’ll win!

                  9. Aim to get off Auto mode

                  If you really want to be a good photographer, this is vital.

                  Because while Auto mode is useful enough when you’re just getting started, it’ll eventually hold you back, and it’ll certainly prevent you from realizing your full potential.

                  You don’t need to rush, though. At first, just enjoy photographing, even if that means using Auto mode all the time.

                  Then slowly move up the ladder as you familiarize yourself with Program mode, Aperture Priority mode, and eventually Manual mode.

                  photography tips for beginners woman with a camera

                  In truth, manual settings aren’t nearly as difficult as some beginners think. It can be a bit like learning to drive. In the beginning, it’ll be challenging to manage gears, indicators, and steering, all while trying not to veer off the road. But with a bit of patience and practice, it’ll become second nature.

                  (When you are ready to try manual settings, there are plenty of beginner guides and cheat sheets here on dPS!)

                  10. Get a post-processing program

                  To become a serious photographer, you’ll eventually need an editing program.

                  Why? Because these days, editing is an essential part of the photographic process. If you want your photos to look their best, then you must learn to edit.

                  laptop and food on a bed

                  These days, your “darkroom” can sit with you in bed (alongside some extras!)

                  Which post-processing program is best?

                  Well, there are free programs such as Darktable and GIMP, which are nice but have their limitations. Then there are the big guns like Photoshop and Lightroom, which can be daunting for beginners. Personally, I recommend just forging ahead with Lightroom; if you intend to eventually get serious with your photography, it’s a hugely useful tool to understand, plus it’s not as difficult as it might initially seem.

                  Alternatively, you might consider an option such as ON1 Photo RAW or Luminar 4, both of which are slightly more beginner friendly than Lightroom yet pack a lot of power.

                  11. Have fun

                  This is the best and most important part of photography:

                  The enjoyment of it!

                  Don’t get bogged down by unsuccessful attempts or by comparing yourself to professionals. Even the best photographers in the world were beginners at some point. Just keep taking photographs, keep learning, keep challenging yourself, and above all, keep enjoying the fun you can have with photography!

                  Photography tips for beginners: final words

                  Hopefully, you’re now feeling inspired – and you’re ready to continue the learning process.

                  Photography is an adventure, and it’s a fun one, too. Sure, there will be ups and downs, but in the end, you’ll be glad you persevered!

                  The post 11 Photography Tips for Absolute Beginners (How to Get Started) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.


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                  6 Tips for Avoiding a Foggy Lens

                  23 Aug

                  The post 6 Tips for Avoiding a Foggy Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jim Hamel.

                  6 tips for avoiding a foggy lens

                  Has this ever happened to you?

                  1. You are on vacation at the beach. You decide to photograph the sunrise or sunset, so you grab your camera from your hotel room and head out. You get to the perfect spot and look through the viewfinder at the beautiful sunrise/sunset – only to find that your lens is completely fogged over. You wipe away the condensation from the front of the lens, but it instantly comes right back. Over and over again.
                  2. You’re in your car, and you spot something you want to photograph. You pull over, hop out, and set up the shot – only to find that the lens is fogged over, and every time you wipe it away, the fog comes right back. You miss the shot.

                  In coastal and tropical environments, lens fog happens all the time. Transferring your camera and lens from a cool, low-humidity location like your car or hotel room to a warmer, high-humidity environment causes condensation to form on the lens – which, in turn, causes you to miss photos (and can increase lens issues down the road).

                  Plus, humid environments are where most folks go on vacation/holiday, and therefore where they tend to take the most pictures. Meaning that the foggy lens problem ruins a lot of shots.

                  So what do you do? How do you keep a camera from fogging up? And once it’s happened, how do you deal with the condensation? Is there any way to defog a lens?

                  Read on to find out.

                  Dealing with a foggy lens

                  So how do you fix this problem?

                  Well, I have bad news:

                  Once your lens is foggy, there’s not a quick and easy fix. There are a few things you can try, which will be addressed at the end of the article, but you just have to keep wiping off your lens and waiting for it to acclimate. This can take a while. Sometimes it just takes a few minutes for the lens to acclimate and stop fogging over, but other times it can take half an hour.

                  a clear shot of palm trees taken once the lens was clean
                  Taken at sunrise in the Florida Keys. Although this shot turned out okay, check out the photos below, which were taken minutes before with a foggy lens. I’m lucky I didn’t miss the sunrise entirely.
                  foggy Florida sunrise
                  Here is a similar shot to the one above, but this one was taken before the lens had a chance to acclimate to the warm, humid air outside my hotel.

                  So: since there’s no on-the-spot fix, you have to avoid the problem in the first place – by letting your camera and lens acclimate ahead of time.

                  Obviously, you cannot just leave your camera bag lying around outside. You will need to let everything acclimate safely. Here are some tips for preventing a foggy lens while keeping your camera gear safe:

                  1. Leave the camera outside (but in a safe place)

                  If you have a secure hotel balcony, you might put your camera and lens outside to let them acclimate. You probably don’t want to leave gear out overnight, though. Security concerns aside, the coastal environment is not friendly to electronics, and prolonged exposure isn’t great for your camera. You can, however, place the camera and lens out on the balcony or other secure place while you prepare to go out. (Leaving them outside for 30 minutes or so ought to be sufficient.)

                  If you are getting up early to shoot a sunrise, for example, you might place your camera and primary lens outside immediately after you wake up, and let them acclimate while you are getting ready to go. That will give them some time to fog up and defog before you need to shoot.

                  (Also, once you’re ready to go, place your camera and lens in your camera bag while still outside, zip it up, then bring it in. You don’t want to reverse all your acclimation work by causing your equipment to cool down all over again!)

                  2. Keep the camera in the trunk

                  When you are driving around or headed to your photo shoot location, keep your camera and lenses in the trunk of your car. That way, they avoid the air conditioning and can acclimate to the outside temperature and humidity.

                  Sometimes, however, you want to keep your camera handy (just in case you come across a great shot). If that’s the case, turn the AC off and roll down the windows. This will keep your camera and lens out of the air conditioning so they acclimate to the temperature and humidity outside, while ensuring you can still grab a shot or two if need be.

                  3. Get your equipment out of the bag

                  If you leave your camera and lens in a zipped-up camera bag, the acclimation process will take far longer. A camera bag, while certainly not airtight, will prevent airflow and keep your camera and lens surrounded by cool, dry air – which will cause condensation the moment you open your gear up to the surroundings.

                  Instead, when you are acclimatizing the camera and lens – whether that be on the hotel balcony, in the trunk of your car, or some other place – keep them outside the camera bag.

                  foggy bridge photography
                  Here is another shot taken immediately upon exiting my cool, dry hotel and entering the warm, humid air in the Florida Keys.

                  4. Remove the caps and filters

                  The front of your lens likely has the biggest problem with condensation, so that’s the part you should spend the most time and effort acclimating.

                  While there aren’t many ways to focus acclimation on a specific lens element, you can take off any filters or lens caps. You don’t want an ND filter or a lens cap keeping the warm air from equalizing the temperatures. Because as soon as you take either of these elements off to shoot, the warm air will rush in – and the fogging will occur.

                  5. Keep a microfiber cloth handy

                  Once the condensation happens, you just have to ride it out until your camera and lens acclimate. At the same time, you should periodically wipe off the front of the lens. That way, you can see if the condensation is going to return, and whether you can start shooting. If you are not wiping the lens off periodically, you just won’t know.

                  In addition, if the fogging isn’t too severe, you can wipe off the lens and then quickly snap a shot or two before the lens starts fogging up again. That usually works after the acclimation process has been going on for a while.

                  So keep a microfiber cloth handy for this reason. If you don’t have one, you can use whatever is available to wipe off your lens, like your shirt (I’d like to scoff at the idea, but I’ve been forced to wipe lenses with my shirt many times).

                  Before your outing, buy a couple of clip-on microfiber cloths that come in little pouches. You can just clip one to your camera strap and you’ll always have it handy. This will also keep you from having to dig through your bag to find your cloth (because they always head to the bottom in a hard-to-reach corner!).

                  6. Fix it in post-production

                  A picture with any significant fogginess due to condensation is a goner. You will not be able to save it.

                  But if the picture only has a minor amount of fogginess, you can try to clear it up. There are no surefire cures, but my suggestions below will help in some cases.

                  Your first thought should probably be to increase the contrast and clarity in Lightroom or ACR. That will work a little bit, but a slightly stronger move is to take the photo into the LAB color space and perform a basic LAB color enhancement. A fortunate side-effect of the color enhancement is that you’ll remove haze from the picture.

                  Again, neither tactic is a magic wand, but they can help.

                  bright sunrise with dock and palm trees
                  To conclude on a positive note, here is a shot taken the same morning as the fogged picture above. The lens cleared in time to capture a great sunrise. Yet another reason to get there early!

                  Avoiding a foggy lens: final words

                  Condensation is definitely a trap for the unwary. Light conditions change fast. Optimal conditions at sunrise and sunset are fleeting. You don’t want to be standing around waiting for the condensation on your lens to disappear!

                  So take steps to avoid the problem. Acclimate your camera and lens ahead of time, then make sure you are wiping off the front of your lens periodically. It will keep you from missing shots when the light is optimal!

                  Now over to you:

                  Do you have any advice for dealing with camera and lens condensation? Any defogging tips or tricks? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

                  person holding up a lens and looking through the center

                  The post 6 Tips for Avoiding a Foggy Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jim Hamel.


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