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This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $100 (96% Off!)

16 Oct

The post This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $ 100 (96% Off!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

5daydeal epic photography bundle (96% off)

What’s the fastest way to improve your photography?

There’s a quick method to enhance your photos and level up your skills, and it’s pretty simple, too: learn from the masters. In other words, discover the secrets, tricks, and techniques already developed by the best of the best, and apply them all in your own shooting.

So how do you access these photography masters? How do you learn their secrets? That’s where online courses come in handy. These days, you can find dozens of well-taught, helpful courses, created by truly outstanding photographers from all around the world. They illustrate the most efficient composition guidelines, effective post-processing techniques, and so much more. 

Unfortunately, online courses can be expensive. This stops plenty of photographers, especially beginners, from ever discovering the information that could instantly take their photos to the next level.

Which is why the 5DayDeal is one of those once-in-a-blue-moon, can’t-miss-out offers that you should absolutely check out, especially if you’re serious about improving your work.

What is the 5DayDeal?

The 5DayDeal is a limited-time bundle, which includes literally dozens of courses from world-class photographers, along with plenty of additional photography-enhancing items (including Photoshop actions, books, and packages/software).

Normally, the 5DayDeal resources would cost over $ 2200 USD.

But for five days only, you can grab them for $ 89 USD, at a whopping 96% off.

Landscape Photography Secrets by Tim Shields

You can click here to take a closer look at the bundle. Highlights include:

  • Landscape Photography Secrets (value: $ 297), a six-class set covering essential landscape topics such as settings, composition, and post-processing, taught by acclaimed landscape photographer Tim Shields
  • Luminar AI Magic (value: $ 99), a comprehensive class that covers the ins and outs of Skylum’s popular editing software – and how to use it for jaw-dropping results
  • Simple & Intermediate Object Removal in Photoshop (value: $ 60), which will turn you into an object-removal wizard, capable of ridding your images of telephone poles, distracting people, and even unwanted cars
  • Painterly Portraits Photography Course (value: $ 227), which offers the secrets to professional-quality portraits, both in the field and in the editing room
  • Nature Love Presets (value: $ 69), a set of 18 Lightroom presets designed to offer quick and efficient yet high-quality edits

And that’s just a small sample of the 5DayDeal items. Photographers, this bundle genuinely is the best way to level up your work; get it, take the time to go through each item, and by the time you’re done, your work will be unrecognizable.

Plus, 10% of the profits go to charity, so it’s really a win all around.

You can check out the 5DayDeal bundle and see all the courses, packages, and more on the 5DayDeal website.

When does the 5DayDeal end?

The 5DayDeal really does last for just five days, and you will never see the exact same deal ever again (the 5DayDeal creators refer to this as a “once-in-eternity sale”).

Specifically, the deal will disappear on October 19th, 2021 (next Tuesday!) at 12 PM PST. So don’t wait; get the bundle while you still can!

Check it out here.

The post This Epic Bundle Offers a World-Class Photography Education for Less Than $ 100 (96% Off!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video]

30 May

The post 6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Lightroom is a fantastic editing program, but should you use it for every edit? Or is Photoshop sometimes the better choice?

In the video below, landscape photographer Mark Denney tackles these questions head-on. Denney explains how he incorporates Photoshop into his own workflow, and he lists the six times he always turns to Photoshop over Lightroom.

So if you’re wondering whether Photoshop is really necessary, I highly recommend you hear what Denney has to say. And when you’re done, leave a comment on this article letting us know whether you agree or disagree with Denney’s recommendations!

The post 6 Times Photoshop Is Better Than Lightroom [Video] appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples)

22 Mar

The post Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

why your kit lens is better than you think

If you’re like most photographers, your first “serious” camera came with a kit lens, probably a standard, 18-55mm option.

But is a kit lens worth keeping? Is it capable of taking great images? Or should you immediately upgrade to a more expensive option?

That’s what I aim to address in this article.

I’m going to show how a kit lens, despite its shortcomings, can get you stunning images (and I give plenty of examples along the way!). I’m also going to give you a few quick tips for working with an 18-55mm lens.

Let’s dive right in.

Is a kit lens bad for photography?

Most kit lenses are, by nature, inexpensive (a polite way of saying cheap).

And that’s understandable – manufacturers are in competition with one another and they keep the prices of their camera bundles down by creating inexpensive kit lenses. A kit lens will get you started, and you can buy other, better-quality lenses when you outgrow it.

But if kit lenses are cheap, does that mean you should go out and buy a better lens straight away?

No, it doesn’t. No matter what anyone says, or how much you lust after expensive glass, your kit lens is a great way to get started with serious photography. If you’re in a position where you can’t afford to buy another lens, or you simply just don’t know which lens to buy, don’t sweat it. You’ll be surprised by what you can do with your kit lens once you know how to get the best out of it.

Don’t believe me?

Then check out this blog post by Jingna Zhang – a professional fashion and editorial photographer. She’s good, and she got her start with an EOS 350D and the 18-55mm kit lens that came with it. The quality of images she created with that camera and kit lens is very high. Take a look, and you’ll see what I mean.

Her article resonated with me because I got started with the same camera and lens combination. I didn’t know what lenses to buy for my camera, so I decided to stick with a kit lens and took it with me on a trip to South America.

I soon realized the lens wasn’t a great one; thankfully, it has been discontinued, and Canon sells a much better kit lens with its entry-level cameras.

However, despite the relatively poor image quality, some of the photos I took with that lens were good enough for publication. I illustrated my first published article, a piece in Practical Photography, with photos taken using the kit lens:

Kit lens better than you think magazines

And several more of the photos were published in other photography magazines. My Canon 18-55mm wasn’t the world’s best lens, but it was good enough to get me started (and the Practical Photography article was a turning point for me because it helped me believe I could make it as a writer).

Getting the best out of your kit lens

So how do you get the best out of a kit lens? My approach is to think of it as two lenses in one.

If you have a kit lens that ranges from 18mm to 55mm (the standard kit lens focal length), then treat it as an 18mm lens and a 55mm lens in one body.

The 18mm is a moderate wide-angle lens that is great for landscapes, architecture, and environmental portraiture. The 55mm end makes for a short telephoto lens, ideal for compressing perspective when taking portraits or closing in on small details.

That doesn’t mean you can’t use the middle focal lengths, and there are times when you can’t avoid them. But by sticking with the short and long end of the lens, you will learn how those focal lengths behave.

After all, lenses are the “eye” of your camera system, and your photos will improve as you learn the characteristics of each focal length.

Some kit lenses also have another useful feature: image stabilization.

(Note that image stabilization is Canon’s term, while Nikon calls this vibration reduction.)

Image stabilization lets you take photos at slower shutter speeds than would otherwise be possible. So theoretically, you could hand-hold the camera, set the focal length of the lens to 18mm, drop the shutter speed, and take a photo without camera shake – even at 1/4s or even 1/2s.

That’s awesome for low-light shooting, and it lets you explore the creative potential of taking photos in the evening or at night.

Your kit lens as wide-angle glass (18mm)

The photos below were taken at the 18mm end of my kit lens.

You can see how I got in close to the subject, sometimes even tilting the lens backward to take advantage of the effect of the converging verticals.

statue photographed with a kit lens
geyser taken with a kit lens

Your kit lens as short telephoto glass (55mm)

These photos were all taken at the 55mm end of my kit lens.

They have a completely different quality, thanks to the compressed perspective and limited depth of field.

Kit lens better than you think mailboxes
Kit lens better than you think child portrait
Kit lens better than you think statue close up

Shortcomings of kit lenses

As you now know, your kit lens is probably a better lens than you originally thought.

That said, kit lenses aren’t incredible, and they do have several shortcomings. At some point, you will bump up against these limitations.

(Running into limitations is not a bad thing. It simply indicates that you’re at the stage where a different lens will help you take better photos.)

These are the main drawbacks of kit lenses:

Limited focal length: You may find that even the 18mm end of your kit lens is not wide enough for the photos you’re after. In that case, it’s time to start thinking about buying a new (even wider) wide-angle lens.

On the other hand, if you find that the 55mm end doesn’t get you as close as you would like to your subject, then you need a telephoto lens. This may happen if you’re interested in photographing wildlife or sports, for example.

Slow autofocus: The autofocus on kit lenses tends to be slower and noisier than autofocus on more expensive lenses. If the autofocus performance of your kit lens is holding you back, it may be time to upgrade.

Narrow maximum aperture: Kit lenses are slow lenses. In other words, they don’t have a wide maximum aperture. The reason is simple: the wider the maximum aperture, the larger the lens body and lens elements required, which pushes up manufacturing costs. So kit lenses are made with relatively small maximum apertures to keep the price down.

The maximum aperture at the 55mm end of most kit lenses is around f/5.6. If this isn’t wide enough, you can buy a zoom that covers the same focal length with a maximum aperture of f/4 or f/2.8, or a 50mm prime lens with a maximum aperture of f/1.8 or wider. The wider apertures on these lenses will help you take photos in low light or use a shallow depth of field creatively.

Subpar build quality: Kit lenses tend to be pretty plasticky, so if you often knock your camera around or shoot in bad weather, then you may need a better-built option. The top lenses in each manufacturer’s range have metal bodies, metal mounts, and weatherproofing.

Why your kit lens is better than you think: conclusion

Kit lens better than you think 18-55mm

Kit lenses have a bad reputation, but they’re actually pretty great for beginner photographers.

So don’t feel you need to upgrade the moment you purchase a camera. Recognize that your kit lens can take stunning photos – as long as you know how to use it well!

And just have fun playing with your kit lens and experimenting.

Now over to you:

Do you use a kit lens? If so, what do you think of it? Are you pleased with it? Do you plan to upgrade? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below!

The post Why Your Kit Lens Is Better Than You Think (With 18-55mm Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.


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Breakthrough Photography announces more than 20 drop-in filters for Canon’s EF-RF adapter

11 Aug

San Francisco-based Breakthrough Photography has announced the first third-party drop-in filters for Canon’s EF-RF drop-in filter mount. This filter mount allows users to adapt EF or EF-S lenses to EOS R series mirrorless cameras with a dedicated space for A-type drop-in filters.

Since the EF-EOS R drop-in filter mount adapter first launched, users have been limited to Canon’s own circular polarizing (CPL) filter or variable neutral density (ND) filter. With Breakthrough Photography’s new line of compatible drop-in filters, users will have access to more than 20 different X2 and X4 filters.

Breakthrough Photography’s new drop-in filter line. Image credit: Breakthrough Photography

The design of Breakthrough Photography’s new drop-in filters includes a rubberized grip to make it easier to put the filter in and remove it from the adapter. For filters with adjustment, there is a large ridged adjustment wheel. Each drop-in filter is also color-coded to make filters identifiable with a quick glance, which will be particularly useful for photographers who purchase one of Breakthrough’s available filter kits, such as the Essential X2, Essential X4 or Complete B&W filter kits.

The Breakthrough drop-in filters include a large adjustment wheel and a rubberized grip. The filters are also clearly labeled and color-coded. Image credit: Breakthrough Photography

Before delving into specific available filters, let’s consider the difference between Breakthrough’s X2 and X4 filters. Looking at the X2 CPL versus the X4 CPL, the latter filter has an average light transmission of 50.64% whereas the former has an average light transmission of 42.44%. According to Breakthrough Photography, the X4 CPL ‘moderately outperforms’ the Canon drop-in CPL filter, whereas the X2 CPL has ‘slightly less’ light transmission than the Canon filter. In terms of color cast, the X4 CPL ‘moderately outperforms’ the Canon filter.

Breakthrough states that their X4 CPL filter has the best light transmission among its competitors. We can also see here that the Canon drop-in CPL filter performs well, as does Breakthrough’s more affordable X2 CPL filter. Image credit: Breakthrough Photography

The X2 ND filters and X4 ND filters don’t have a direct Canon competitor because Canon offers a variable ND filter rather than a series of solid drop-in ND filters. With that said, Breakthrough Photography claims that the X4 ND outperforms ‘industry-leading manufacturers such as Singh-Ray and B+W and Lee’ due in part to neutral color transmission.

Image credit: Breakthrough Photography

Canon’s EF-EOS R drop-in filter mount includes a 1.5-9 stop variable ND filter. In addition to solid ND filters in 3, 6, 10, 15 and 20 stop strengths, Breakthrough’s new drop-in filter line includes a pair of variable ND filters. The first, VND-R, is adjustable from 2 to 11 stops. There is also a stronger Dark VND-R, allowing adjustment from 10 to 16 stops of ND strength. Breakthrough states that the VND-R and Dark VND-R drop-in filters eliminate the ‘X’ pattern sometimes seen on VND filters with wide-angle lenses. The Canon drop-in VND is an excellent filter but Breakthrough states that their filters outperform it. You can view a transmission percentage comparison below.

There are four CPL filters in the line aimed at black and white photography: Red, orange, yellow and green. They are available in a bundled set.

Comparing Breakthrough’s available black and white CPL filters. Image credit: Breakthrough Photography

Rounding out the series of drop-in filters are Night Sky, infrared 720nm and a pair of clear filters. Digital cameras, such as the EOS R, RP, R5 and R6, include a permanent IR-cut filter over the image sensor. With the IR filter, some residual light can reach the sensor and show the scene in a way different from how it appears in the visible light spectrum. The Night Sky filter is designed to reduce light pollution and show night scenes with color neutrality.

Breakthrough’s Night Sky filter aims to reduce the impact of light pollution on colors in night sky images. The image on the left was captured without the Night Sky filter, whereas the image on the right was shot using the Night Sky filter. Image credit: Breakthrough Photography

Breakthrough Photography expects the filters to begin shipping in late September. Prospective customers can preorder individual filters and filter kits now through Breakthrough Photography’s website. Prices range from $ 80 to $ 200 for individual filters. There are also savings available if customers opt for a filter kit rather than purchasing a set of individual filters. It’s worth noting that all Breakthrough Photography filters include a free 25-year ‘Ironclad Guarantee’. If you’d like to learn more about long exposure photography while you wait for your new filters to arrive, Breakthrough Photography offers a free 52-page long exposure photography guide, which you can learn more about here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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NASA’s Mars 2020 Perseverance mission to carry more cameras than any interplanetary mission in history

30 Jul

Tomorrow morning, NASA is expected to launch its Mars 2020 mission, which will take the Perseverance rover to the Red Planet to search for signs of ancient life, collect terrain samples for potential return to Earth and overall provide a better look at the Martian surface.

A United Launch Alliance Atlas V rocket with NASA’s Mars 2020 Perseverance rover onboard is seen on the launch pad at Space Launch Complex 41. Credit: NASA/Joel Kowsky

Amongst dozens of other pieces of equipment, the Perseverance rover features a record-breaking 19 cameras that NASA says ‘will deliver images of the [Martian] landscape in breathtaking detail.’ There are four additional cameras onboard other parts of the spacecraft that will be used for entry, descent and landing. These additional cameras will ‘potentially [allow] engineers to put together a high-definition view of the landing process after the rover safely touches down on Mars, according to NASA’s fact sheet.

An overview of the tools on board the Perseverance rover.

NASA breaks down how each of the cameras aboard the Perseverance rover will be used:

19 cameras total on the rover: 9 for engineering (color); 3 for entry, descent and landing (1 black-and-white dedicated to Terrain-Relative Navigation and 2 color for public engagement and engineering reconstruction of entry, descent and landing); 2 for Mastcam-Z (color with zoom); 1 for SuperCam (color); 2 for SHERLOC (color); 1 for PIXL (black-and-white with some color capabilities); and 1 for MEDA (black-and-white)

3 cameras on the back shell: all color, all looking up to capture parachute inflation

1 camera on the descent stage: color, looking down to view the rover from above

Students Alex Mather, at left, and Vaneeza Rupani, stand near the countdown clock at the News Center at NASA’s Kennedy Space Center in Florida on July 28, 2020. Mather named the Perseverance rover, and Rupani named the Ingenuity helicopter. Credit: NASA/Kim Shiflett

Hitching a ride with the Perseverance rover is Ingenuity, the Mars Helicopter, which NASA hopes will ‘be the first flyer on another world.’ The 1.8kg (4lb) helicopter is this mission’s technology demonstration, which is separate experiment designed to test interplanetary technology.

The UAV features two 1.2m (4ft) carbon-fiber blades that will spin at roughly 2,400rpm on counter-rotating motors — about eight times faster than the blades spin on a standard helicopter here on Earth. While Ingenuity is a separate experiment from the Mars 2020 Perseverance mission, the helicopter will have two cameras onboard: one color camera with ‘an oblique view for terrain images’ and one black-and-white camera for navigation.

As it has with previous Mars missions, NASA plans to make both raw and processed images captured during the mission available for the public to download on the mission’s website.

A ‘Quick Facts’ overview of the Mars 2020 mission.

The Perseverance rover and Ingenuity helicopter are set to land on Mars on February 18, 2021, after which its primary mission will last ‘at least’ one Mars year (approximately 687 Earth days). You can find out more about the Mars 2020 mission on the NASA website and watch the launch live tomorrow if all goes to plan.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon EOS R6: more than a mirrorless 6D, more interesting than EOS R5

24 Jul
The R6 need not necessarily be overshadowed by the R5

I’ve been guilty of it myself: describing the EOS R6 and R5 as the mirrorless successors to the 5D and 6D lines of DSLRs. Guilty because, while it might be literally true, it risks obscuring a subtle re-positioning of the two cameras. Personally, I think the R6 is a much more interesting camera than the 6D series DSLRs were and, consequently, more interesting than the R5.

Just in case it needs to be said: we’ve not fully tested the R6 yet and I’m not suggesting you should go out and buy one. But here’s why I think it’s the more interesting one, for more people.

It’s a higher-end camera

Yes, the price is higher than for the 6D series. Canon has always felt confident in pricing its cameras a little above its rivals, but the R6 goes beyond this. Obviously it was always going to look particularly expensive next to the relatively elderly Nikon Z6 and Sony a7 III which, as they approach what’s likely to be the end of their product life, are being sold for considerably less than their original prices, but the R6’s launch price is significantly above even that.

In the US, at least, the R6’s launch price is 25% higher than those of its closest peers (though only 8% up on the somewhat disappointing EOS R). But, then again, its specs are higher, too. It shoots faster, comes closest to offering full-frame 60p video capture and promises a greater degree of image stabilization than anything else can. It’s hard to find an obvious weak-point on the spec sheet: even in areas such as battery life and viewfinder resolution, where it is out-gunned, it’s still competitive with the majority of its rivals.

Differentiating without diminishing

It’s no R5, of course. Market segmentation and product differentiation are a fact of life. No one is going to give you all their best features in anything less than their range-topping model, not if they want to sell any of their flagship product. And not if they want to stay in business.

Placing them side-by-side showed how distinct the 5D and 6D series are: for example the 5D IV (right) has a more substantial rear dial and a joystick, while the 6D II (left) has an articulating touchscreen.

If you get segmentation right, it means enthusiasts don’t have to pay professional prices to get a camera that suits their needs. Get it wrong and it can start to look… well, petty. But, ultimately, the question is not necessarily ‘how many features can we squeeze out of this hardware?’ but a balance between ‘which features would these users appreciate?’ and ‘which features can we include without undermining the R5?’

From any reasonable perspective, the R6 gives you an awful lot of R5’s performance. Its IBIS system is supposedly a match for the more expensive model, including that headline-grabbing claim of up to 8 stops of correction. That in itself is a stand-out feature. Similarly, the R6 will shoot at the same rates as the R5, and will do so using the same AF system. This means non-pro photographers (and, no doubt, some pros) get most of the core capabilities of the much more expensive camera.

The R6/R5 differences are far fewer (the R6 is on the left). The R6’s construction isn’t quite as solid-feeling, it lacks a top LCD or the ability to add audio notes to images, but the handing is otherwise all-but-identical.

Most significantly, you get the same multi-dial-and-joystick user interface and shooting experience in the R6 as you do in the R5. It would have been easy to omit the joystick from the R6 (they use different exterior panel moldings), but instead you get a camera that’s every bit as usable.

This is a world away from the 6D series, which lacked the 5D’s joystick, 4K shooting and a host of other core features.

What’s missing

What you don’t get is resolution. Depending on what your current camera is, 20MP may well feel like a step backwards. 20MP is more than enough resolution for a lot of applications (including those at which the Canon EOS-1D X and Nikon Dx cameras are targeted). But you’re unlikely to be getting the most out of those exotic new RF lenses and, much as you might like to kid yourself, you’re unlikely to see any significant low-light benefit. Realistically though, it’s only a 10% reduction in linear resolution, compared to its 24MP peers so probably not worth losing sleep over.

It doesn’t shoot 8K and doesn’t have an All-I capture option but the in-body IS and more-than-competent video spec make the EOS R6 a reasonable option both for video and stills shooters.

The R6’s lower pixel count also highlights that the camera lacks the current feature du jour: a high-res pixel shift mode. The inclusion of stabilization means it should be possible, depending on how many patents surround the technology (most brands’ implementations are subtly different, which could suggest there’s IP being skirted around). But personally I’ve not found it very useful for much of my photography, since it is most effective for static or close-to-static subjects.

More than a mirrorless 6D?

I’m not a full-frame shooter, myself, but I have a lot of friends who take their hobby seriously enough that they’ve owned 5Ds over the years. Looking at the R6, I can imagine an awful lot of these 5D owners being happy with the R6, for considerably less money than they paid for their DSLRs. So although you could see the R6 as an overpriced 6D replacement, I think that, at least for some users, it might be a credible, more affordable substitute for a 5D.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Cascade Pro Webcam can turn more than 100 popular cameras into webcams on macOS

16 Jul

While the likes of Canon, Fujifilm, Panasonic and others have released firmware updates or dedicated apps to turn cameras into webcams, not every camera owner is lucky enough to have their camera’s manufacturer release such utilities. Thankfully, there are third-party developers stepping up to the plate to help bring webcam functionality to many more cameras.

One of the latest attempts is from Cascable, a development team known for making wireless remote, tethering and transferring solutions for iOS and macOS devices. The team’s newest creation is Cascable Pro Webcam, a new macOS app that will turn compatible Canon, Fujifilm, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic and Sony cameras into a webcam for popular video conferencing and streaming programs.

Over 100 cameras are supported by Cascable Pro Webcam, with some even offering wireless connectivity if the camera has built-in WiFi. Cascable has a full list of compatible cameras on its website. Note that in order for the camera to be supported, it must have a checkmark under the ‘Control & Automation’ column on the linked page.

The highlighted (red) column is what determines whether or not your camera is compatible with Cascade Pro Webcam.

As for the video conferencing and streaming apps it supports, the Cascade team says it’s specifically tested it with Google Chrome, Microsoft Edge, Microsoft Teams, OBS Studio, Quicktime Player, Skype (8.59 or later), Twitch Studio and Zoom (5.0.5 or later).

Cascable Webcam Pro is available to download for free to try out. The free trial doesn’t limit how many times you can use it, but not all features will be available and streams will show an overlay when they last more than five minutes. Cascable Pro Webcam will retail for $ 40, but until July 24, it’s just $ 30 as part of a ‘launch sale.’ You can download the free trial and purchase a license on the Cascable website. You need to be running macOS 10.14.4 or higher.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon Japan warns R5, R6 and accessories could ship later than expected due to demand

14 Jul

Canon Japan has warned consumers that pre-orders for its R5 and R6 mirrorless cameras — as well as some accessories — might ship later than expected due to pre-orders ‘exceed[ing] expectations.

The machine-translated statement reads:

Information About Product Supply Status

We have received orders for the following products announced on July 9, 2020 that exceeded expectations, and it may take some time before the products are delivered.

[Applicable Products] EOS R5 / EOS R6 / Battery Grip BG-R10 / Extender RF 1.4x / Extender RF 2x

We would like to thank you for all the orders we have received, and we apologize for any inconvenience caused to our customers waiting for the release. Thank you kindly look forward for your understanding.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen this kind of announcement following the launch of new and exciting camera gear: Nikon, Panasonic, Sony and others have done it in the past.

While there’s reasonable suspicion in these instances whether it’s purely a PR move to further drum up interest or a genuine warning that units might ship later than expected, it’s worth noting Canon specifically suggests shipments could be delayed. So, it’s worth keeping tabs on your order progress if you’ve pre-ordered one of the affected cameras or accessories.

You can find a full run-down of our Canon EOS R5 and EOS R6 coverage here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Are mechanical film cameras better than electronic?

12 Jun
The electronic Pentax ME Super can be picked up for a bargain price compared to the mechanical Pentax MX.
Image: Say_Cheddar

There are a lot of mechanical film camera snobs out there, and I’m one of them. There’s something about the way a mechanical camera feels, that sensation of meshing gears and tightening springs that you can feel right in your fingers, which is just magical. To me, a camera that goes ‘KA-CLACK!’ will always be superior to one that goes ‘bzzzt.’

But I also know that electronic film cameras have key advantages over mechanical cameras, and those advantages don’t always get proper recognition. In fact, I’d argue that for many photographers and many situations, electronics are better. Here’s why.

Mechanical vs. Electronic: What do we mean?

Before we begin, some quick definitions: For the sake of our discussion, an all-mechanical camera is one that has no electronics in the shutter, exposure or film-winding mechanisms. It may have a light meter, but mechanically speaking, it’s fully functional without a battery.

An all-mechanical camera is fully functional without a battery

When we talk about electronic cameras, we either mean cameras with an electronically-controlled shutter, which still have manual focusing and winding, or cameras with electric/electronic everything, including shutter, exposure control, winder, and (usually) autofocus. Some electronic cameras will work at one shutter speed (usually the flash sync speed) with no batteries; for others, no power means no pictures. (Note that some cameras, like the Canon EF and Pentax LX, use a hybrid shutter with mechanical timing for fast speeds and electronic for slow speeds.)

Some electronic cameras will work at one shutter speed (flash sync) with no batteries; for others, no power means no pictures

Got it? Good! Let’s dive in and talk about the advantages of electronics, then we’ll revisit a few of the arguments in favor of mechanicals.

Why electronic cameras are better

You’d be hard-pressed to spend more than $ 75 on an electronic Ricoh KR-10 with lens.
Image: Arapaoa Moffat

Electronic cameras have fewer moving parts than mechanical cameras.

This is one of the main reasons camera manufacturers moved to electronics in the first place: The complexity of the mechanism is greatly reduced. Mechanical cameras are clockwork marvels, filled with minuscule gears, levers, springs, cords and chains – moving parts that can wear out, disengage, clog up or break. Electronic cameras replace a lot of these intricate bits with non-moving solid-state electronics, which are simpler, more robust and generally more reliable. From the manufacturer’s perspective, electronics make the cameras cheaper to build. From the photographer’s perspective, electronics mean fewer things to go wrong.

From the manufacturer’s perspective, electronics make the cameras cheaper to build. From the photographer’s perspective, electronics mean fewer things to go wrong

Electronic cameras rarely go out of adjustment.

One of the problems with a mechanical shutter-timing mechanism is that it’s subject to wear, degraded lubrication, and temperature variations. After a while, your 1/250 shutter setting no longer delivers a 1/250 second exposure. (Hence the ‘A’ in the common CLA service – cleaning, lubrication and adjustment.) With an electronic shutter, the timing is done by solid-state bits that are not prone to such discrepancies.

That’s not to say electronic shutters are always perfect; they still have moving parts that can be affected by dirty electromagnets or dried-up lubricant. But they tend to stay pretty darn close to the mark. If a forty-year-old electronic camera is working, it’s probably working correctly – and will likely be shooting more accurate than an older mechanical camera that hasn’t been serviced.

Electronic cameras can deliver more precise exposures than mechanical cameras.

With a mechanical camera, you’re generally locked into pre-set full-stop shutter speeds – 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, etc. Same with an electronic camera in manual mode. But electronic cameras with an automatic exposure setting can take advantage of one of the key benefits of an electronic shutter: Infinitely variable speed settings. If the meter decides the ideal shutter speed is, say, 1/300 of a second, that’s how long the shutter will stay open. 1/75 sec ? No problem. 1/854 sec? Sure! They can fine-tune your exposure in a way that a mechanical camera can’t, which is especially critical if you’re shooting with slide or technical film.

The electronic Nikon FE2 sells for about half the price of the mechanical FM2.
Image: Paul1513

Electronic cameras have faster top and sync speeds than mechanical cameras.

The camera with the fastest purely mechanical shutter I know of is the Nikon FM3A, which tops out at 1/4000th of a second, but that’s atypical; most mechanical cameras stop at 1/1000 sec, and some ‘pro’ models at 1/2000 sec. So did early electronic cameras, but advances in electronics and curtain materials meant faster speeds, and many electronic cameras top out at 1/4000 or (in very high-end models) 1/8000 sec. The speed champ is the Minolta Maxxum 9, which can snap off an exposure in 1/12,000 sec.

Fast shutters are usually associated with action photography, but they are handy for casual shooters as well: If you’re running 400 speed film and the sun comes out, you can still shoot at wide apertures. Electronic shutters also give you faster flash sync speeds, typically 1/125 sec to 1/250 sec versus 1/60 sec for most mechanical shutters. Again, that’s one or two more stops of flexibility, allowing you to use a wider aperture for outdoor portraits with fill flash.

Electronic shutters also give you faster flash sync speeds, typically 1/125 sec to 1/250 sec versus 1/60 sec for most mechanical shutters

Finally, my favorite:

Electronic cameras are usually less expensive.

Electronic cameras are the bargains of the used-film-camera market. Nikon’s all-mechanical FM2 typically sells for twice as much as its electronic-shutter counterpart, the FE2. Same for the mechanical Pentax MX and the electronic ME Super.

And the more electronic you go, the better the prices get. The Nikon N8008, a “prosumer” camera one notch below the vaunted F4, sold for $ 600-$ 800 when new, but today you can buy them for $ 10-$ 50. Minolta’s excellent Maxxum/Dynax autofocus cameras of the 1990s can easily be bought for $ 20-$ 50 in good operating order with a Minolta lens – not just the low-end consumer models, but fully-featured high-end cameras as well.

Why mechanical cameras are better

We’ve covered the advantages of electronic cameras. What about the arguments in favor of mechanical cameras? Let’s discuss a few.

A Nikon ad from the 80’s showing a mix of electronic, mechanical and hybrid cameras.
Image: Nester

Mechanical cameras work without batteries.

This is true, though I’ve personally never seen it as a real advantage (although I can understand how those who have found themselves on the losing end of a dying digital camera battery would). The story I’ve heard is of a professional photographer on a once-in-a-lifetime shoot atop an icy mountain. Suddenly their camera’s battery dies – but they have a mechanical camera, so they can go right on shooting! Fine – but that’s a niche use-case. Most of us aren’t going to be shooting regularly in situations where batteries degrade fast (like extreme cold) or in places where spares aren’t easily available.

The more likely explanation for the cult of the battery-less camera is that pros mistrusted electronics when they first came out, which is a natural human reaction to anything new and unfamiliar. Within a few years, once they realized that electronics were not evil, those same professionals were relying on battery-reliant cameras like the Nikon F4/F5 and Canon EOS-1.

All-mechanical cameras are fabulous beasties and a treat to use. But manual-wind, manual-focus cameras with electronic shutters give you most of that same feel.

Besides, while it’s true a mechanical camera will work without the batteries, its meter won’t, and who wants to shoot without a meter? Sure, you can use an external meter/phone app or ‘Sunny 16’, but there’s no need for a fallback when spare batteries are cheap and easy to carry. Remember that electronic cameras that use button batteries go years on one set, and autofocus cameras that use AAs or lithium ions should give you a few dozen rolls and a warning before the batteries die. So yes, this argument is valid, but I don’t think it’s very relevant.

Mechanical cameras are more repairable.

There is some truth to this. One of the reasons older electronic cameras can fail is that their flexible printed circuit boards can crack with age. When new parts aren’t available, repair shops rely on donor cameras, which may have the same age-related issues. But not all problems with electronic cameras are insoluble – some repairs require a bit of soldering, and other failures are mechanical, not electrical, and involve the same types of issues to which mechanical cameras are prone.

Even if a given camera cannot be repaired, remember those low replacement costs. I’ve had two cameras cleaned and repaired at a cost of around $ 100 each– worth it for more expensive cameras. But if it’s my Minolta 400si or Ricoh KR-10 that breaks, for that same $ 100 I could buy 3 or 4 replacement bodies in working condition.

Mechanical cameras have more ‘soul’.

You’ll get no argument from me there. All-mechanical cameras are fabulous beasties and a treat to use. But manual-wind, manual-focus cameras with electronic shutters give you most of that same feel. And while autofocus, auto-wind cameras don’t feel the same, using them is a unique experience that I have grown to appreciate.

The mechanical Pentax MX (shown with accessory grip) is a joy to shoot with.
Image: Wikipedia

Bottom line

Mechanical cameras are great, and they have their advantages, and disadvantages. Electronic cameras, meanwhile, are the unsung heroes: They are generally cheaper to buy, more likely to give you accurate exposures, and if they aren’t always easily repairable, they are usually easily (and cheaply) replaceable. There’s a reason all camera manufacturers embraced electronics. We, as film photographers, ought to embrace them as well.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Lensrentals bought a $10K machine to test the flange-to-sensor distance of more than 2,500 cinema cameras

04 Jun

Roger Cicala and his team over at Lensrentals have made the most of their COVID-19 downtime by spending the past few months painstakingly measuring the flange-to-sensor distance of more than 2,500 cameras to see just how much variation there is from cinema camera to cinema camera (even identical models).

In the first of a two-part series on the testing and results, Roger breaks down why flange-to-sensor distance is important, details ‘how accurate is possible,’ explains how the Lensrental team went about testing and shares the first bits of data from the meticulous testing of popular cinema cameras.

This is what using a $ 10,000 Denz Flange Depth Controller looks like.

To achieve this testing, Roger invested in a Denz Flange Depth Controller, which costs about $ 10,000 and can measure flange depth to the nearest 0.01mm. Even after receiving the new equipment, he and Aaron spent a month confirming its accuracy before eventually training ‘Poor Ben’ on how to use the machine.

Over the following weeks, Ben ended up measuring and re-measuring the flange-to-sensor distance of more than 2,500 cameras worth roughly $ 10M (yes, million).

The red circles denote Canon Cinema cameras that had more variation than is to be expected for the flange-to-sensor distance.

For this first part of the series, Roger breaks down the spread of Canon Cinema Cameras, Sony Cinema Cameras, non-Canon EF-mount cameras and Blackmagic cameras to show just how much variation the models and individual cameras had. To his surprise, there were a few outliers, but as always, Roger seems to have gotten to the bottom of it and has learned through this testing that the Lensrentals team can and will be able to better screen these less-accurate cameras so everything going out their doors is up to snuff.

You can check out the full breakdown on the Lensrentals blog, linked below. Part two will be out in the near future and will address the flange-to-sensor distance of ‘SLR style’ camera bodies.

Lensrentals: The Great Flange-to-Sensor Distance Article

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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