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7 Tips for Action-Packed Indoor Sports Photography

27 Sep

The post 7 Tips for Action-Packed Indoor Sports Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.

indoor sports photography: essential tips

Indoor sports aren’t always easy to photography. In fact, for the beginning sports photographer, they can be downright intimidating, thanks to the fast action, low light, and limited camera movement.

Fortunately, experienced sports shooters have developed a number of techniques that make indoor sports photography way easier, including:

  • Simple starting settings for sharp indoor shots
  • Standard gear that every beginner should own
  • Careful research you should do before approaching a sport
  • Much more!

And that’s what this article is all about. I’m going to share my top 7 tips to take your indoor sports photos to the next level – and by the time you’re done, you’ll be ready to head out with your camera and start creating some action-packed photos of your own.

Let’s get started.

1. Use a fast camera

I’m guessing you know this already, but many indoor sports are fast-paced. Basketball, hockey, indoor soccer – all of it requires split-second attention to detail. One moment, a player has the ball/puck; the next, it’s in the goal/basket and the team is celebrating.

man dunking a basketball

Which means that you need a fast camera to keep up with the action. Specifically, I recommend a camera that offers:

  • Interchangeable lenses (i.e., a mirrorless camera or a DSLR)
  • Fast continuous shooting speeds (at least 8 frames per second, though 10+ is better)
  • A deep buffer (so you can take several bursts without pause)
  • Lighting-fast autofocus (ideally with eye autofocus tracking)

Sports-focused cameras do tend to be expensive, but for the serious shooter, it’s absolutely worth it (and there are cheaper models that offer a lot of the fundamental sports features without breaking the bank).

You’ll also want to pay attention to camera low-light capabilities. A camera that can shoot at high ISOs without significant noise is a big deal, because you can push it to the max when shooting in poorly lit arenas. To determine high-ISO performance, you can read reviews, which nearly always do in-depth ISO tests and comparisons.

2. Use a lens with a wide maximum aperture

Indoor sports arenas, even in the best-case scenario, tend to offer pretty limited lighting. That’s where wide-aperture lenses come in; they let you capture plenty of light, thus keeping your shutter speed high (for sharp photos) and your ISO low (to reduce noise).

Professional shooters tend to use lenses with a maximum aperture of f/2.8, and these are ideal, though they’re also expensive. At the very least, you should use lenses with a fixed f/4 maximum aperture.

By the way, you’ll often be positioned away from the action and limited in your movement, so shooting with a wide-angle lens or a fast prime generally isn’t an option. Instead, sports photographers use fast zoom lenses, such as a 70-200mm f/2.8 or a 24-70mm f/2.8. Eventually, you may want to add a fast super-telephoto prime to your bag, but a 70-200mm lens is a great starting point.

3. Shoot with a fast shutter speed

Once again, sports photography is all about the action – and if you don’t use a fast shutter speed, then you’ll end up with blurry, unpleasant photos that nobody likes.

On the other hand, a fast shutter speed will let you freeze movement, even split-second movement, like a hand slamming the ball down through a hoop, or a stick drawing back to smack the puck.

action indoor sports photography

So what counts as fast enough? I recommend a shutter speed of at least 1/200s, but faster is better. If you can, boost this to 1/400s, or even – if the light is good or your camera can handle high ISOs – 1/1000s.

Pro tip: You can sometimes create artistic shots by slowing down the shutter speed to 1/30s or so. Try photographing a moving player and consider panning along for a blurry background effect. Sure, the results won’t be pin-sharp, but they’ll convey movement (and can look great in a creative portfolio!).

4. Use a high ISO

In the previous tip, I emphasized the importance of a fast shutter speed. But if you just crank up the shutter and leave the rest of your settings alone, you’ll let in too little light – and your photos will be wildly underexposed.

Instead, you must balance out the fast shutter speed with a high ISO setting. That way, even as you reduce the light hitting the sensor, you maintain the overall brightness of the photo.

I recommend an ISO of at least 1600, though plenty of cameras these days can handle much more than that (even ISO 6400 and ISO 12800 may be fair game, depending on your model). Since there’s so much variation from camera model to camera model, take some test shots at different ISOs and compare them. Ask yourself: How do I feel about the noise produced at ISO 3200? How about ISO 6400? See what you can tolerate, identify a cut-off point, and then push your ISO as necessary.

5. Shoot in RAW

Here’s one final piece of settings advice:

When possible, use a RAW file format.

You see, RAW files contain all of the data captured the moment you hit the shutter button. Whereas their alternative, the JPEG, produces a compressed version of that RAW file – which, by definition, is lower quality.

This has plenty of consequences. For one, you can make significant edits to RAW files without causing issues, but JPEGs are resistant to serious editing (and the more significant the edit, the more you risk ruining the shot). RAW files also contain more detail, allow you to recover highlights and shadows, and more.

Now, JPEGs are smaller and instantly shareable, plus they’re easier for your camera to process (and therefore allow for longer burst sequences). So if you absolutely need to increase your camera’s buffer, or you like the idea of immediately sharing your images (without needing to process them in programs such as Lightroom or Capture One, as required by RAW files), then you might consider using JPEGs.

Otherwise, shoot RAW.

6. Learn to anticipate the action

What separates the good sports photographers from the great sports photographers? Their ability to predict the action in advance, and therefore be ready to capture a cover-quality shot.

Fortunately, learning to anticipate action isn’t as hard as it sounds. It simply takes a lot of research.

First, familiarize yourself with the rules of the sport you’re photographing. Know the rulebook inside and out; that way, you always know how the gameplay will proceed, when players move down the field, when penalties happen, etc.

players playing basketball in black and white

Second, learn strategy. If you know how teams are likely to approach the game, then you’ll be ready to shoot when the game gets intense.

Third, learn about specific teams and players. This is an advanced technique, but once you get really good at rules and strategy, you can try to determine how a team or player will behave, which gives you a serious advantage. You’ll know exactly what’s going to happen before it does; your photos will practically shoot themselves!

All that said, even the best sports photographers can’t predict every movement – after all, sports are fast and complex – so make sure you’re ready for anything.

7. Look for relationships and expressions

Oftentimes, beginner sports photographers shoot individuals: the basketball player going for a jump shot, the volleyball player spiking at the net.

But if you can capture multiple players together, you can create more compelling images. For instance, you might shoot one player handing the ball to another, two players talking to each other, or opposing players squaring off. It’s about portraying relationships, looking for interactions, and capturing engagement.

moment between two players before gameplay begins

Also, pro tip: Try to photograph players as people, not just as players. In other words, aim to capture emotion, such as anger, joy, or nervousness – in the look one player gives the camera, in the stare one player gives another, in the team huddle just before a buzzer-beater shot.

That way, you’ll create indoor sports photos that people will remember.

Indoor sports photography tips: final words

Hopefully, you now feel equipped to capture some stunning indoor sports images of your own.

Just follow the tips I’ve laid out for you, add in a healthy dash of creativity, and you’ll be golden!

Now over to you:

What sports do you plan to shoot this season? Do you have any indoor sports tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

volleyball players celebrating

Table of contents

Sports Photography

  • GENERAL
    • 8 Tips On How to Photograph Sports
    • Tips from the Sports Photography Pros to Help You Get the Money Shots
    • Indoor Sports Photography

    • SETTINGS
      • How To Use Sports Mode
    • LIGHTING
      • Shooting Portraits and Action Sports with Speedlites – Workshop
    • GEAR
      • Lens Review Canon 300mm f4 Lens for Sports Photography
      • Aquatech CO-7 Underwater Sport Housing [REVIEW]
      • Shooting Motorsports with a Micro Four Thirds Camera
    • ADVANCED GUIDES
      • Tips for Photographing Football (Soccer)
        • How to Shoot High School Football
        • Play Ball! Covering Your Bases Shooting Baseball
        • How to Capture the Perfect Action Shot in Sports Photography
          • Low Light Sports Photography
          • 3 Tips for Taking Better Motorsport Photos
          • Catching the Action: Photographing Youth Sports
            • Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography
          • POST-PROCESSING
            • Using Photoshop to Create the Illusion of Depth of Field with your Sports Photos

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          The post 7 Tips for Action-Packed Indoor Sports Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.


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          The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports

          12 Jun

          The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

          It doesn’t need to be some sort of pro-level sport, it can be a local football game, some skateboarding on the street, Surfing or Soccer… You can choose, but you have to go and find, and photograph some form of sport or something connected to a sport. Easy! As usual, you need to take your photograph this week and share it in the comments below (There is a HOW TO at the end of this post, just keep reading) or you can share your photo in our FACEBOOK GROUP or on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter where you can tag us (how to tag someone on social media)

          If you’re tagging your photograph on social media, please use this week’s hashtag #dPSSports

          Sports photography, just due to the sheer fact that most sports move at a bit of a fast pace, is usually approached with a faster shutter speed. Not all sports, but a lot. The surfing photo below, combined with a brighter day (outdoors, where most surfing is done, I’m sure you’ll agree!) and some good fast movement by the surfer left me with a 1/8000th shutter speed at f/3.2. I could have stopped down to bring my shutter down some, but my goal, at that distance from the surfer (190mm on a Canon 70-200 f/2.8) was to isolate him from the whitewash in the bottom of the frame, and aim for a nice sharp wave. (Indoor sports photography and Outdoor sports photography can be quite different in terms of light!)

          Missed a challenge? Catch up here!

          Surf Photography Sydney Australia Simon Pollock

          I’ve photographed a lot of my son’s soccer for the last couple of years, just a dad on the sidelines with a camera, for fun, to document his games and the enjoyment he gets from playing his sport, I’ve slowed my shutter a little in this frame to try and get a little movement, depicting the action, I didn’t really achieve it, but it’s one way to show action in sports photography – give it a try!

          The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports

          Before I sign off for this weekend, here’s a handy ‘Intro to Sports Photography‘ that might make for some good reading before you head out to find your photograph. — Have fun!

          Now, how do you post your photograph in the comments under this post? Here’s the deal… Upload your photo into the comments field below this post (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section below this post) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

          Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

          If you do get stuck, you can contact our friendly (mostly!… ok, well.. after coffee he’s ok!) support guy. He’s on the email support@digital-photography-school.com ?

          The post The Weekly Photography Challenge – Sports appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


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          Video: Ferrari sports cars, Formula 1 cars captured on-track with a Super 8 cameras from the 1960s

          12 Mar

          Nick Shirrell, a motorsport filmmaker known for using old school film cameras to capture auto races, recently received an invitation from Ferrari to travel to Italy and film a race using 50-year-old Super 8 cameras with 8mm film. The result is a 10-minute video featuring a retro production style and classic voiceover narration that recently went viral on the /r/Formula1 subreddit.

          DPReview spoke with Shirrell to ask about his experience with Ferrari and the gear he used to capture the race, as well as the events that led up to this moment. The project wouldn’t have been possible without support from Reddit, according to Shirrell, who explained that his first Super 8 race video went viral on the /r/cars subreddit, resulting in articles from publications like Jalopnik and, eventually, a private message from Ferrari.

          Following the initial video, Shirrell filmed an IndyCar video at Road America, which likewise was popular on Reddit and with automotive media. He explains:

          ‘Not long after the IndyCar video went viral, I got DM’d on my Instagram by Ferrari asking if I’d like to talk to them about doing some filming. Little did I know the phone call that would follow would be an invitation to Italy to make the great film released this week! Ferrari was amazing to work with and they made it clear they wanted no hand in the creative process or in the final content, they only wanted to enable me to create something amazing and give me the opportunity to do what I do with these films.’

          Shirrell used a variety of gear to capture the race, including three Super8 cameras: a 1966 Canon 814, 1968 Canon 1218 and a 1971 Beaulieu 4008 ZM2 with Kodak Vision3 50D and 200T motion picture film stock. These models were joined by a RadioShack-brand Realistic 14-1029 handheld mini-cassette recorder featuring a Smith-Victor supercardiod condenser shotgun microphone.

          Shirrell said his narrator Alan Baxter used a modern microphone to record the voiceover, which was later edited using software. As well, he relied on the natural lighting available at the filming locations. Shirrell explained:

          ‘For post-processing the voiceover audio, I use EQ and distortion filters within Adobe Premiere Pro to mimic the sound of an older microphone recording onto tape as accurately as I can. For ambient track sounds of V10s, Challenge cars, etc recorded onto mini-cassettes the old fashioned way I didn’t have to add any filtering.’

          As for processing the film, he said:

          ‘I do develop my own 35mm and medium format still photos with C-41, E-6, and black and white chemicals, but for a professional project like for Ferrari I didn’t trust myself to not ruin the film on my first ever attempt at developing 8mm. 8mm is challenging to develop because it’s 50 feet long and very small and fiddly compared to a roll of 35mm or 120 film that is 4-6 feet in length.’

          This isn’t the end for Shirrell, who has plans for other projects involving his retro equipment:

          ‘For what I want to shoot next, I’d love the opportunity to film Formula 1 if the opportunity presents itself, but I also have ideas for shooting drag racing, rally, and other motorsports.’

          Shirrell’s work can be found on his YouTube account and on Instagram.

          Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

           
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          Video: Action and sports photography with the Olympus OM-D E-M1X

          21 Aug

          In this video we’ve traveled to southern Spain to the town of Sevilla to meet photographer Fernando Marmolejo. We joined Fernando over the course of a few days, as he shot some of his favorite sports with the most advanced Micro Four Thirds camera on the market: the Olympus OM-D EM1X.

          Sample gallery

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          This is sponsored content, created with the support of Amazon and Olympus. What does this mean?

          Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

           
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          Sigma issues product advisory for its 60-600mm F4.5-6.3 and 70-200mm F2.8 Sports lenses

          10 Jun

          Sigma has issued a lens product advisory for its 60-600mm F4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM and 70-200mm F2.8 DG OS HSM lenses.

          According to the advisory, posted below in its entirety, Sigma has ‘found a phenomenon whereby when pressing the shutter button on the camera body, it may occasionally stop operating and not respond to the reoperation.’

          Due to this ‘phenomenon’ (someone’s been looking at Canon’s product advisories), Sigma says it will offer free lens firmware updates free of charge to customers with affected products within the following serial number ranges:

          Sigma 60-600mm F4.5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Sports for Sigma, Canon EF and Nikon F Mount

          Serial No.53824160 or earlier

          Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 DG OS HSM | Sports for Sigma, Canon EF and Nikon F Mount

          Serial No.53846990 or earlier

          Sigma notes its USB Dock can’t be used for this firmware update ‘as it requires an adjustment to optimize each lens individually.’ So, if you’re noticing your lens having this issue and it falls within the serial numbers, Sigma requests you contact an authorized Sigma subsidiary/distributor who will then direct you to take the proper steps to get the issue fixed. You can find a full list on Sigma’s World Network webpage.

          We spoke with a technician at Sigma America who said lenses that aren’t experiencing the issue don’t need to be sent in at the time and in the event a lens still under warranty does have the issue occur down the road, Sigma will still provide the firmware update free of charge.

          Sigma has also noted that some products within the serial number ranges provided have already had their firmware updated. As shown in the above graphic, units with a black dot sticker above the barcode of the box have already been updated.

          Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

           
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          Olympus posts second teaser for upcoming sports camera

          10 Jan

          Last week, Olympus published a teaser about a sports-oriented mirrorless camera set to launch on January 24th. The video didn’t reveal much, giving just a quick glimpse of a DSLR-shaped body with a built-in battery grip taking photos at volleyball and water polo matches.

          There’s not a whole lot new in this video, aside from someone taking photos at an auto race. The camera is still well-hidden, with Olympus offering a very quick glimpse of the back.

          Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

           
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          Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography

          07 Nov

          Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography 1

          Extreme sports photography is a discipline all of its own.

          Each sport has its intricacies, rules, and set of specialists who operate in each arena. Me, I am a long time skateboarder. I’ve been a skate rat since I was a kid. I’ve looked at thousands of images, know how a trick should look and know what the rider is looking for. Put me with a BMX rider and I may have an idea of how they want the trick to look, but I will be unsure of exactly what they’ll be doing. The key, like any genre of photography, is to know what you are shooting and work with your subject to form a bond of trust. 

          To those who haven’t shot extreme sports before, it may look easy. But the truth is, unlike posing a model in a studio, sports photography is unpredictable and extreme sports, even more so. With this in mind, here are my top 5 tips to up your extreme sports photography game. 

          1. Know The Sport

          Ever photographed a ballerina? If you have, you know they will pick out the minute detail in a photo you take. Finger placement or how high they are on their toes will dictate whether a photograph is one they love or one they hate. Extreme sports athletes are exactly the same! The best way to know what a great shot looks like is to start by doing your research. Look on websites such as Thrasher and Ride BMX. See what their photographers are taking. Look at where the photograph is taken from, try to figure what lens they used and how it was lit. As with any photography, breaking it down and visualizing how you want things to look before you shoot is key. The only difference with extreme sports is that the person you are taking a photo of will more than likely be risking personal injury for your photo. You need to be ready, know what settings you want to use and have an angle in mind. Which brings me nicely to….

          2. Camera Settings

          To quote my all-time favorite movie Ferris Bueller’s Day Off:

           ‘Life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop to look around once in a while, you could miss it.’

          Extreme sports is fast. Whole tricks last barely a second. And you need to freeze an incredibly small percentage of that. There are two ways to freeze motion in extreme sports; one is to use a high shutter speed, the other is to use a flash with a small flash duration. Unless you know what you are doing with off camera flash or are shooting at night, using a high shutter speed is a much better option when you are starting out. You need to have your exposure nailed quickly and a high shutter speed will be the easiest way for you to do this. 

          You should put your camera into ‘Shutter Priority’ and aim for a shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second. This will mean your images will not suffer motion blur, which is important to capture those beautiful moves. The obvious pay off here is aperture and ISO. I would personally suggest when starting out to use a higher ISO and keep a wider aperture. This gives you a larger depth of field to work with and a higher chance of a sharp image. 

          This is great when shooting outdoors, but when shooting at an indoor skatepark, you need to think about using flash. Plan your shoot accordingly.

          In terms of focus mode for your camera, you should aim to use Ai servo mode. This is designed for shooting action and will give you the best chance of getting the rider in focus. An alternative to this is to pre-focus and then switch to manual focus to keep it locked. This technique involves getting your rider to position themselves where you anticipate taking the photo, focus on this point, then flick over to manual focus. As with everything, read your camera manual, experiment and see which works best for you.

          3. Think Don’t Feel

          As I said above, extreme sports tricks can last less than a second. By the time you see the perfect moment in your viewfinder, it is already too late. You need to trust yourself and shoot just before the peak moment. Anticipate what is about to happen and trust your instinct. Your instincts will sharpen with practice. With most extreme sports tricks you will have more than one chance to get the shot. In some cases, you may have too many tries. You can help cure your boredom by changing angles if you think of something different, or you can tough it out. However, the unwritten rule of action sports is that the trick must be landed. This argument has been going on for as long as the sports themselves. The rider must make the trick in order for you to put the photo out, otherwise, they are just posing it. Now the even bigger question is: does the photo have to be of the one they landed? This is up to you. Personally, I pick the best photo.

          Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography 2

          If I had waited to see this in the viewfinder it would be gone. Try to anticipate and press the shutter just before the peak moment

          4. Angles

          The best angle for shooting tends to be down low. This adds height to the object and power to the person in your photograph. This technique is one you will see a lot of in magazines, but there are no hard and fast rules. When you get the spot, look around, try taking photos from different angles, until you find the one that makes the trick look powerful. 

          In terms of composition, to allow the photo to make sense to the viewer you need 3 key things: where they started, where they are and where they will land. I have lost count of the number of photos I have seen of riders in the air. It has no context, you may as well have just composited the rider onto a sky background. Context is key. 

          The third and final tip for composition is to avoid the butt shot. The key to a good extreme sports photo is to be able to see the riders eyes. When finding the angle for your shoot, look at which way the rider approaches the trick and plan accordingly. By getting their face in their frame, you will always get a better photo. 

          To answer the question that some of you might be asking, which lens is the best for extreme sports photography? It is the full frame fisheye. The lens gives that wonderful distortion that we associate with this kind of photography. However, this means you are incredibly close to the action, which brings me to my final point.

          Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography 3

          This was my second to last shot of this shoot. The next try I got hit with a board and cut pretty badly. Be careful!

          5. Be Careful

          You need to be aware of your surroundings at all times, even if you are shooting with a long lens, there will no doubt be more than one person at the skatepark or spot where you are taking photos. This means people and skateboards will be flying. It is incredibly easy to take a rogue skateboard to the ankle (and incredibly painful) but when shooting with an extremely wide angle lens, such as the fisheye, you can risk taking a rider, board or bike to the head. While it can be easy to feel secure when looking through your viewfinder, you need to remember that being a photographer can be as dangerous as being the rider if the trick goes wrong. Just keep your eyes open and remember a photo is not worth the pain of being hit in the head with a skateboard when a rider misses a trick. Trust me, I know!

          Have you tried extreme sports photography? Do you have tips or photos you’d like to share in the comments below?

           

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          9 Tips On How To Photograph Winter Sports

          24 May

          If you’re planning a winter holiday in a picturesque location, you’re probably wondering how to capture the perfect shot in the snow. Here are 9 tips to help you photograph the dynamic winter sports with beautiful snowy landscapes in the background. Pick the right lens and use protection   Even if you prefer a sharp, high performance prime lens to Continue Reading

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          Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

          11 May

          Fast-paced movement across the court or rink, cheering crowds, the thrill of the win (or agony of defeat). These are the myriad of elements waiting to be captured by your camera when you photograph a sports event.

          Whether you’re taking pictures at the home arena of your favorite pro team or snapping away in the gym at a high school game, shooting indoors requires you make certain preparations. You must get a handle on your surroundings to ensure sharp, compelling photos that will make viewers feel like they are part of the action.

          Select the appropriate lens

          Typically for indoor sports, you’ll want to have lenses that open to an aperture of f/2.8 to let in the maximum amount of light. A versatile lens to start with would be a 70-200mm f/2.8. From there, it depends on whether you’re shooting hockey, basketball, or another indoor sport.

          For basketball, for instance, a 24-70mm lens is ideal so you can capture the athlete’s full body as he or she jumps up for the basket. For other indoor sports, a 300mm f/2.8 lens will serve you well so can zoom in on the puck or ball.

          Because most pro arenas are now using higher-intensity LED lights, a lens with a 100-400mm or 150-600mm focal-length range, even with a maximum f-stop of f/6.3, is also a viable option.

          Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography - hockey shot
          Prepare for the big game

          To get the lay of the land, you’ll want to do your homework on the arena or venue in which you’ll be shooting. If you can, find out what kind of lighting the location has and its intensity, either by visiting the venue yourself or asking other photographers who’ve shot there. This will help you better prepare what lens assortment you will need to bring.

          Pack your gear bag early, perhaps a day in advance if possible, then unpack it and look at it again on the day of the event to make sure you’re not missing anything. There’s nothing worse than getting to an event and realizing that you left a lens behind (to save a little weight) that you would’ve been better off having with you.

          Also, scope out what the conditions will be like beforehand. Although you won’t have to worry about certain elements as you would outdoors (e.g., it won’t be raining inside), you still need to be vigilant.

          Case in point: At the Winter Olympics in Pyeongchang this year, they kept the main arena at 53 degrees (11.7 c) so the ice would stay in perfect condition. That’s a lot colder than what photographers are used to inside most National Hockey League arenas. It’s key to know those logistics in advance so you can make the necessary preparations to keep your body warm, as well as to keep your equipment in tip-top shape by protecting it where applicable.

          goalie - Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

          Scout out the best vantage point

          Photographing indoor sports is all about focusing on the athletes’ eyes, so being at floor level is usually ideal. If it’s hockey, you’ll want to be at ice level in what’s called the “deep corner position,” which is just south of where the goalie’s line intersects the boards. From that angle, you’ll have the ability to shoot the entire ice.

          For basketball, being on the floor halfway between the side of the court and the basket works best. That offers you the opportunity to not only see the entire playing surface but also to capture players jumping up toward the hoop or coming in for the goal.

          Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

          Compensate for various lighting setups

          As mentioned earlier, most modern indoor arenas today have switched to LED lighting. So using regular auto white balance (AWB) is usually sufficient to get you close to the proper color. If you’re using the Kelvin temperature setting, it can range from 4100-5400K, depending on how they’ve set up the LED lights.

          In some hockey arenas, if AWB isn’t cutting it, use a custom white balance and take a reading off of a neutral surface in the arena. In other arenas, it is actually best to do a custom white balance by shooting towards the arena lights themselves. With hockey, for instance, the ice works well because you’ve got such a large white surface to use as your neutral tone.

          In smaller venues, like high school or college gyms, the problem isn’t just that these places are poorly lit. They’re also illuminated with an assortment of different kinds of lights, whether they’re different-colored fluorescents, sodium vapor lamps, or older-style carbon arc lights. If that’s the case, you may find that as a player is dribbling down the court, the sequence of frames you get of that player will each be a bit different in color.

          On Canon cameras, you can use the anti-flicker option to cut down on the pulsing from certain lights. That helps balance the color of the light, but in situations where it varies greatly, you can shoot in auto white balance and then tweak the image when you bring it into Photoshop.

          One other thing to be aware of is shooting through glass. You’ll not only have to worry about reflections, but also the color cast that’s given off by some of the glass sheets used in arenas. Keep an eye out for that so you can adjust accordingly.

          goalie in a mask - Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

          Nail down your camera settings

          Exposure is going to depend on each venue’s lighting conditions, but one of the keys to this type of photography is that you need to freeze the action. Shooting at 1/1000th of a second or 1/1250th of a second will freeze most of the action you’ll find at indoor sporting venues.

          In terms of ISO, it wouldn’t be unusual to be shooting at 4000 or 5000. Inside a pro arena, that could give you an f-stop of f/5.6 or f/6.3; in the worst-lit arenas, you could be down to f/2.8 or f/3.5.

          Hone your focusing skills

          You’ll want to use autofocus 99% of the time for indoor sports, although you can certainly override that in situations where the need arises. You may want to shoot in continuous autofocus mode, called AI Servo or Continuous/AF-C, depending on what camera you’re using. This allows you to photograph moving subjects while the camera keeps adjusting focus with the shutter button pressed halfway.

          Or you may want to keep the shutter button separate from focusing and assign another button on the back of the camera to focus, a technique called back-button focusing. It all comes down to personal preference, which you’ll discover the more you shoot.

          Either way, what’s critical for shooting indoor sports is that you select one point of focus. It’s infinitely faster than using the variable dots that manufacturers have built into the cameras, in which the camera decides which one of 61 different places to focus. Get a handle on the sport — and on individual players — so you’ll know when to press the shutter button.

          Experience helps, but so does knowledge of the sport you’re photographing. That includes getting to know not only the ins and outs of the game but also individual players and their particular propensities, such as what side they tend to move toward or when they tend to shoot.

          Practice this by selecting an individual player as he or she flies up the ice or runs up the court and concentrating on that, instead of simply following the puck or ball around. Eventually, you develop almost a sixth sense.

          Shoot high, low, and 360 degrees around

          If you want your photography to stand out, don’t settle for one shooting position. That can be achieved using more advanced techniques, such as using remote cameras. Or you can simply get up and move around the venue so that you’re able to place different backgrounds in your images.

          You want to fill the frame, and it’s not always advisable to do so using Photoshop. It’s better to fill the frame in your camera.

          Keep an eye on the horizon

          They call it that for a reason – it’s horizontal. Double-check your background, such as the boards of an ice hockey rink, to make sure everything is straight, not crooked.

          Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

          Watch your cropping

          Don’t cut a player off at the joints, like at an athlete’s ankles or knees. It’s best to stick with waist-up or full length.

          Focus on facial expressions and emotion

          The best sports images show both jubilation and dejection in the same frame. Always be on the lookout for the sort of image where you can witness both teams participating and showing the full range of emotions in a game. That’s not to say the action shots aren’t important; it’s just that it adds so much more to show the players engaged in what they’re doing.

          These kinds of photos are called “rounding out the take”. You don’t want to come away from an indoor sporting event with just 20 action images — a well-rounded photo narrative will include an action shot, a celebration, a dejection, some individual shots of stars that are playing, or rookie players, and then some ancillary images. Those could include, for example, photos of the officials, fans celebrating, or images of both of the goalies if you’re shooting hockey (just in case one of the goalies ends up being the big story of the game).

          If you’re thinking of selling your images, you should also think more generically when it comes to indoor sports photos. In other words, you’ll want to photograph details that tell the story of the sport without pinpointing an individual player or team. That could entail, for instance, a close-up of a puck or a ball, a hand on a ball, or a stick on a puck. Close-ups of skates churning ice and creating ice spray can also tell an interesting story.

          Tips for Doing Better Indoor Sports Photography

          Arrive early and stay late

          There’s nothing worse than rushing to an event and not having time to think out what you’re going to shoot. Some of your best images will come from those early arrivals and from sticking around after the final buzzer, whether it’s players heading into an arena and prepping for a game or images of the players leaving an event.

          If you build in that bit of extra time, you could end up capturing shots that other photographers miss.

          Disclaimer: Tamron is a paid partner of dPS.

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          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          03 May

          In this article, we’ll give you 8 quick tips for photographing fast action and sports.

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          But what if you don’t shoot sports?

          There is a lot of value in learning how to make images that work across different genres. You might avoid sports or wildlife images. Perhaps you find landscapes boring. However, each genre requires a unique skill set that needs to be practiced in order to make images that work. When you practice photographic “cross-training” your work in your primary genre will benefit. In other words, get out of your comfort zone once in a while.

          Regardless of what you like to shoot for personal projects or commercially (i.e. portraits, landscape, social documentary, wedding, wildlife, etc.) your reflexes and hand-eye coordination needs to be sharp and fast. When your observation skills are finely tuned, you can anticipate moments before they happen.

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          How can you learn to anticipate action and synchronize your eyes with your right index finger?

          A great way to practice this is to shoot sports. Live theatre or dance performances are also useful activities to shoot for this purpose, but sports (especially motorsports) is the fastest of fast. Moments come and go in rapid succession so you get more opportunities to respond than in other types of photography, relatively speaking. Consider that a vehicle traveling at 60 miles an hour is moving at 88 feet per second!

          8 Tips for photographing fast action

          In the eight points below, I aim to share technical settings that are useful when shooting action or sports. Follow these, and not only will you be closer to making images of action and sports that work but your overall technical capability as a photographer should improve as well.

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          Granted, making images of this type is not easy but anything worth doing should never be easy.

          1 – Use a long lens

          Use a long telephoto lens such as the common 85-200mm focal length and try to get close to the action.

          A telephoto lens will give you the flexibility to quickly adapt to the changing situation. Sports move quickly and so must you. On a football pitch, the action may go from one end of the field to the other within seconds.
          Depending on where you are standing you need to move quickly as well. A twist of the wrist will get you there with a good telephoto zoom lens.

          2 – Don’t go too long

          You can go bigger such as 300-600mm focal length, but super long lenses are not necessary. They are also bulky, heavy, and expensive.

          Super telephoto lens can be useful especially when shooting motorsports. A race car or motorcycle on a track moves way faster than a ballplayer on a field. Depending on how much you expect to shoot sports,
          you might want to wait on the purchase of a super telephoto.

          3 – Minimum shutter speed

          The shutter speed should be inversely proportional to your focal length to avoid camera shake. For example, a 200mm focal length lens should be shot at around 1/200 or 1/250 of a second while a 400mm lens should be shot at 1/400 of a second, handheld.

          A tripod will basically negate this rule. However, some places forbid tripods or it may be unsafe to use one so be prepared to shoot without a tripod.

          4 – Practice panning

          Panning is when you place a moving subject in your viewfinder and them by moving the camera from left to right or right to left, following the subject’s direction and speed.

          The benefit of the technique is that you are afforded more time in which to compose the image. It is generally advisable to place your moving subject off to one side of the frame, and moving into the negative space on the other side of the frame. This gives your subject room to breathe and a place to go, so to speak.

          Panning takes practice but it is one of the basic techniques in which all photographers should be proficient. It usually works around 1/60 of a second or faster for faster-moving subjects. Experiment until you feel proficient and happy with the results.

          Go to the nearest street and shoot the cars until you get the car in the frame and mostly or entirely sharp.

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          5 – Use a teleconverter

          A teleconverter is a small device that fits in-between your camera body and your actual lens that increases the focal length by some factor. Increases of 1.4x or 2.0x are common. A 200mm lens can quickly become a 400mm using a teleconverter.

          Teleconverters have the benefit of being small, compact, and relatively inexpensive (especially compared to 400mm or longer glass). Additionally, the teleconverter will normally communicate with your digital camera and retain metering, autofocus, EXIF data, and more.

          Be sure to get the same brand for all your equipment so that it all works together. There are exceptions to this rule but you will need to do a bit of research to sort that out.

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          The downside of using the teleconverter is that you will lose at least one stop of light. During broad daylight, you can probably afford to do that but at night, you need all of the light than you can get without having to sacrifice ISO. Teleconverters are great little devices, however, you will need to consider trading sharpness for that extra reach.

          6 – Blur the motion

          Consider if you want motion blur (and how much) or want to completely freeze motion. Some amount of motion blur can be desirable in your images so that the viewer can get a sense of the speed and action of the subject.

          Alternatively, you might want to freeze motion and keep things tack sharp. It’s really a matter of taste, and how you intend to tell your story through your images and techniques.

          7 – Freeze the motion

          To freeze motion you will need around 1/500th of a second, 1/1000th, or even faster depending on the speed of the subject.

          My old Nikon FE SLR shoots at 1/4000th of a second and there are DSLRs that will shoot at 1/8000th. Dial in a number, test, and adjust as needed. When you shoot sports, It’s advantageous to use “S” Mode or Shutter Priority mode for best results.

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          8 Tips for Photographing Fast Action and Sports

          8 – Use low ISO

          Set your maximum ISO to about 100, 200, or 400. You can go to 800 (or higher) and get usable images but the odds fall considerably against you at this “end” of the ISO dial. Less is more ISO, especially with action and sports.

          Using the lowest ISO possible will give you the sharpest images given the shutter speed that you are using. Sports and sporting events are usually colorful activities with lots of details in the frame. Therefore, when shooting sports, you ought to aim to use the lowest ISO possible.

          If you are shooting with a really fast shutter speed such as 1/1000th or higher, given the amount of available light, you may need to use a higher ISO such as 800 or 1600 to compensate for the reduction in light hitting your camera’s sensor. You get to make this decision before pressing the shutter on every image. Do you want sharp or do you want to freeze motion or do you want both?

          There are limits and you need to be mindful of these especially when shooting fast moving objects.

          Conclusion

          I hope you’ve found this tips helpful. Are their any others you’d added to this? Please share in the comments area below.

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