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Posts Tagged ‘Shutter’

Aperture and Shutter Priority Modes

22 Dec

The post Aperture and Shutter Priority Modes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

aperture priority mode and shutter priority mode explained

What is Aperture Priority mode, what is Shutter Priority mode, and why do they matter?

Over the last few months, we’ve been looking at different elements of exposure and how to move off “Auto” mode on your digital camera. We’ve looked at aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. We’ve discovered what each setting is and what impact changing it will have on your images.

But now that we’ve looked at the theory of how changing these elements impacts an image, I’d like to discuss how to use them by examining two key shooting modes that many digital cameras offer. These should help you take a step away from the automatic settings that you might be spending a lot of time with.

So if you’re ready to learn all about Aperture Priority mode and Shutter Priority mode, then let’s get started.

The elements of exposure: A quick recap

In other articles, I’ve discussed how the three elements of the exposure triangle impact one another. This is particularly important when it comes to aperture and shutter speed.

Remember:

As you increase the size of your aperture (i.e., make the hole that you shoot through bigger), you let more light onto your image sensor.

As a result, you’ll need a shorter shutter speed to get a well-exposed image.

Conversely, if you increase the length of time your shutter is open, you decrease the aperture size that you need to get a well-exposed shot.

Make sense?

Priority modes

Aperture and Shutter Priority modes are really semi-manual (or semi-automatic) modes.

They give you some control over your settings, but also ensure you have a well-exposed image.

You see, semi-automatic modes such as Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority work by letting you select some of the settings. Your camera then chooses the remaining settings (in order to create a nice exposure).

Let’s take a look at each mode separately:

Aperture Priority mode

Often, Aperture Priority mode is represented on your camera Mode dial with an “A” or an “Av.”

In this mode, you set the aperture you wish to use, and the camera sets the shutter speed based on its evaluation of the light.

When would you use Aperture Priority mode?

Aperture impacts the depth of field of your images.

(In other words: By adjusting the aperture, you change how much of your scene is in focus. A narrow aperture results in focus from foreground to background, whereas a wide aperture results in a small sliver of focus surrounded by blur.)

As a result, most people use Aperture Priority mode when they want control over the depth of field.

aperture priority mode and shutter priority mode dandelion seed head

If you want a shallow depth of field (for example, in the shot above, the depth of field is very shallow, keeping the front dandelion seed in focus but blurring out the background), you’ll select a large aperture (f/2.8, for example, as in the dandelion photo) and let the camera choose an appropriate shutter speed.

But if you want an image with everything in focus, you must pick a smaller aperture (for example, f/16) and let the camera choose an appropriate shutter speed.

When choosing an aperture in Aperture Priority mode, keep in mind that the camera will be selecting the shutter speed.

And there comes a point where shutter speeds get too long to handhold your camera (usually around 1/60s).

Once you go below 1/60s or so, you’ll need to consider using a tripod.

(Also, if you’re photographing a moving subject, your shutter speed will impact how it’s captured; a slow shutter speed will mean your subject will be blurred.)

Shutter Priority mode

Shutter Priority mode often has a symbol of “Tv” or “S” on your camera Mode dial.

In Shutter Priority, you choose the shutter speed you wish to shoot at, and you let the camera decide on the best aperture for a well-exposed shot.

When would you use Shutter Priority mode?

In our tutorial on shutter speed, we talked about how the main impact of different shutter speeds is how movement is captured in your images.

As a result, most people switch to Shutter Priority mode when they want more control over the sharpness of a moving subject.

For example, if you want to photograph a bird in motion, and you want to freeze it so there’s no motion blur, you’d choose a fast shutter speed (e.g., 1/1000s, like in the photo below). Your camera would then take into consideration how much light is available in the scene and set an appropriate aperture.

aperture priority mode and shutter priority mode tricolored heron

But if you instead want to photograph a subject with some motion blur to illustrate its movement, you might choose a slower shutter speed, such as 1/25s. And your camera will select a smaller aperture as a result.

The photo below was taken at 0.4s as the flower waved in the wind. Do you see the motion blur that the slow shutter speed created?

aperture priority mode and shutter priority mode blurry flower

But don’t forget:

As the camera chooses different apertures, the depth of field in your image will change. If you choose a fast shutter speed to freeze your fast-moving object, your camera will choose a wider aperture – and your photo will have a narrower depth of field.

My final recommendation: Practice!

As you can see, Shutter Priority and Aperture Priority do give you more control over your images – but getting used to them can take some practice.

So as you use these semi-automatic shooting modes, don’t just think about the setting that you select; also keep an eye on the settings that the camera selects for you.

I find that, when shooting in “Av” or “Tv” modes, it’s often best to bracket your shots and shoot a number of images of the same subject (when you have time) at different settings. This will ensure you’re likely to get at least one shot that meets your needs.

The best way to learn about Shutter Priority and Aperture Priority modes is to grab your camera, head out with it, and experiment. Switch to “Av” or “Tv” and start playing with the different settings (taking lots of shots as you go). Particularly pay attention to how the camera makes changes to compensate for your selections and what impact it has on the shots you take.

In Aperture Priority mode, take some shots at the largest aperture you can (i.e., use small f-numbers) and see how this blurs the background (and also increases the shutter speed). Then head to the other end of the spectrum to take some shots at the smallest aperture you can (i.e., use high f-numbers) and see how this keeps more of your image in focus.

In Shutter Priority mode, play with fast and slow shutter speeds to see how they impact your photo’s depth of field.

Don’t be frustrated if your initial shots are not what you expect; it takes practice to wrap your head around these modes. But keep in mind that, when you do master both Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority, you’ll have a lot more creative control over your shots!

aperture priority mode and shutter priority mode shallow depth of field dahlia

The post Aperture and Shutter Priority Modes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


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Introduction to Shutter Speed in Digital Photography

01 Dec

The post Introduction to Shutter Speed in Digital Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Example of Fast Shutter Speed

Previously, I introduced the concept of the exposure triangle as a way of thinking about getting off of Auto Mode and exploring the idea of manually adjusting the exposure of your shots.

The three main settings that you can adjust are ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. As we’ve covered aperture and ISO in other articles, today I want to turn your attention to shutter speed.

What is shutter speed?

As I’ve written elsewhere, defined most basically, shutter speed is “the amount of time that the shutter is open.”

In film photography, shutter speed is the length of time that the film is exposed to the scene you’re photographing. Similarly, in digital photography, shutter speed is the length of time that your image sensor “sees” the scene you’re attempting to capture.

Let me attempt to break down the topic of “shutter speed” into some bite-sized pieces that should help digital camera owners trying to get their head around shutter speed:

  • Shutter speed is measured in seconds – or, in most cases, fractions of seconds. The bigger the denominator, the faster the speed (i.e., 1/1000s is much faster than 1/30s).
  • In most cases, you’ll probably need shutter speeds of 1/60th of a second or faster. This is because anything slower than this is very difficult to use without getting camera shake. Camera shake is when your camera is moving while the shutter is open; it causes blur in your photos.
  • If you’re using a slow shutter speed (anything slower than 1/60s), you will need to either use a tripod or some type of image stabilization technology (more and more cameras are coming with this built-in).
  • Shutter speeds available on your camera will often double (approximately) with each setting. As a result, you’ll generally have the option to use the following shutter speeds: 1/500s, 1/250s, 1/125s, 1/60s, 1/30s, 1/15s, 1/8s, etc. This doubling is handy to keep in mind, as aperture settings also double the amount of light that is let in. As a result, increasing the shutter speed by one stop and decreasing the aperture by one stop should give you similar exposure levels.
  • Some cameras also give you the option for very slow shutter speeds that are not fractions of seconds but are measured in seconds (for example, 1 second, 10 seconds, 30 seconds, etc.). These are used in very low light situations when you’re after special effects and/or when you’re trying to capture a lot of movement in a shot. Some cameras also give you the option to shoot in “B” (or “Bulb”) mode. Bulb mode lets you keep the shutter open for as long as you hold the shutter button down.
  • When considering what shutter speed to use in an image, you should always ask yourself whether anything in your scene is moving and how you’d like to capture that movement. If there is movement in your scene, you have the choice of either freezing the movement (so it looks still) or letting the moving object intentionally blur (giving it a sense of movement).
  • To freeze movement in an image (like in the shots of the bird above and the surfer below), you’ll want to choose a faster shutter speed. To let the movement blur, you’ll want to choose a slower shutter speed. The actual speeds you should choose will vary depending upon the speed of the subject in your shot and how much you want it to be blurred.

In the bird image above, the shutter speed was 1/1000th of a second, meaning that despite the bird’s fast-flapping wings, they appear to be frozen in a split second of time. The surfing shot below had a fast shutter speed (around 1/4000th of a second), which captured even the splashing drops of water sharply.

shutter speed surfer
  • Motion is not always bad. I spoke to one digital camera owner last week who told me that he always used fast shutter speeds and couldn’t understand why anyone would want motion in their images. But there are times when motion is good. For example, when you’re taking a photo of a waterfall or a seascape and want to show how fast the water is flowing, or when you’re taking a shot of a racing car and want to give it a feeling of speed, or when you’re taking a shot of a starscape and want to show how the stars move over a longer period of time. In all of these instances, choosing a longer shutter speed will be the way to go. However, in all of these cases, you will need to use a tripod or you’ll run the risk of ruining the shots by adding camera movement (which results in a different type of blur than motion blur).

For example, in the following waterfall photo, the shutter speed was around 1s, so we see the movement in the water:

waterfalls slow shutter speed

In the subway shot below, the shutter speed was around 2s, so the movement of the train is beautifully blurred:

subway moving fast light trails
  • Focal length and shutter speed – Another thing to consider when choosing your shutter speed is the focal length of the lens you’re using. Longer focal lengths will accentuate the amount of camera shake you have, and so you’ll need to choose a faster shutter speed (unless you have image stabilization in your lens or camera). The rule of thumb here (in situations without image stabilization) is to choose a shutter speed with a denominator that is larger than the focal length of the lens. For example, if you have a lens that is 50mm, a shutter speed of 1/60s is probably okay. But if you have a 200mm lens, you’ll probably want to shoot at around 1/250s or higher.

Shutter speed – bringing it together

Remember that thinking about shutter speed in isolation from the other two elements of the exposure triangle (aperture and ISO) is not really a good idea. As you change your shutter speed, you’ll need to change one or both of the other elements to compensate for it.

For example, if you increase your shutter speed by one stop (for example, from 1/125s to 1/250s), you’re effectively letting half as much light into your camera. To compensate for this, you’ll probably need to increase your aperture by one stop (for example, from f/16 to f/11). The other alternative would be to choose a higher ISO (you might want to move from ISO 100 to ISO 200, for example).

I hope you’ve found this introduction to shutter speed useful. I would highly recommend you also put a little time aside today to learn about the other two important elements of the exposure triangle – aperture and ISO.

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The post Introduction to Shutter Speed in Digital Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


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A visual and auditory journey through the shutter sounds of vintage film cameras

28 Oct

Photographer Ace Noguera has published a video highlighting not only the great style of vintage cameras but also their distinct shutter sounds. It’s a satisfying watch and listen.

Of his video, Noguera told DPReview, ‘The video came from an idea I’ve had for a while, to simply showcase how shutter sounds and technology has changed over the years. I thought it would be cool and entertaining to put it in a visual format and share with others how not only designs have changed over the years, but how we’ve been able to integrate electronics to help automate how we take photos.’

In total, the video below showcases the look and sound of nine cameras, dating back to the 1940s. The cameras come from Noguera’s collection with some additions from his friend, Patch Agan. It’s fascinating to hear how shutter sounds have changed over the years. There’s something particularly satisfying about the Olympus Trip XB3 from 1996.

While the video isn’t overly comprehensive in the cameras it covers, Noguera assures us there are more shutter sounds on the way, telling us, ‘I do plan on making another video that will also include some digital cameras as well as just further show the advancement in the tech and design of cameras. I plan to somewhat pick up where this video left off and showcase the next 20 years of sounds and cameras.’

Noguera hopes to record medium format cameras as well. He continues, ‘I think it would be awesome to be able to record some medium format cameras like the iconic Pentax 67 or even the modern medium format like Hasselblads as well.’ Hopefully, some photographers near Noguera in Atlanta will be able to help him out.

To see more from Noguera, follow him on Instagram and check out his YouTube channel. On his YouTube channel, you will find tutorials, lens reviews and much more.

Do you have a favorite camera shutter sound? Do you miss the physical shutter sound when using an electronic shutter in many modern cameras? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sony a7S III initial review updated: excellent rolling shutter rates

13 Aug

We’ve started digging into the a7S III’s video capabilities. Initial results are positive: we measured excellent, sub-10ms rolling shutter rates, and we can confirm that the camera uses a dual gain sensor.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Olympus will shutter its camera business in South Korea on June 30

21 May

Olympus will end its camera business in South Korea on June 30, according to a new report from The Korea Times. The decision is ‘mostly’ based on low camera sales volume, the report claims. Olympus will continue to sell medical and scientific equipment in the country.

In a statement to the publication, Olympus said that despite focusing on mirrorless cameras and interchangeable lenses, ‘it has become barely possible to sustain the business with profit,’ spurring the business decision.

Though the company will shut down its brand store and online shop for South Korean customers on June 30, it will continue to operate its servicing facility in the country until March 31, 2026, enabling existing customers to get their camera gear repaired.

Olympus says it had to make this decision despite ‘strenuous efforts to increase the profitability and efficiency of its imaging business’ in South Korea. Olympus told The Korea Times that its decision to end camera sales in the country doesn’t have anything to do with a social movement among residents to boycott products from Japanese companies.

The news isn’t terribly surprising as camera sales are indeed down worldwide. Back in November 2019, rumors surfaced that Olympus was planning to entirely exit the camera business, something the company denied, stating instead that it was working on improving the ‘profitability and efficiency’ of both its imaging and scientific equipment businesses.

According to the CIPA figures released last month, camera shipments to Asia in March reached only 39.8% of the volume of shipments reported in March 2019. Overall worldwide shipments only reached 47.8% of the volume compared to the same month in 2019, with mirrorless camera models proving more popular than SLR cameras.

It’s unclear how great of an impact the economic downturn caused by the COVID-19 pandemic had on this drop in sales volume, but it seems unlikely that camera companies can expect a spike in sales at any point in the near future. Given the fact that Olympus’ imaging business was already struggling to survive in South Korea, it makes sense that the company would choose this time to exit the camera business in that market entirely.

We have contacted Olympus for a comment and will update this article accordingly if we receive a response.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits

18 Mar

The post Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

dragging the shutter for creative portraits featured image

There are a lot of great techniques that allow you to add an element of movement or other visual interest to your images at the time of capture. Some of these include multiple exposures, multiple flash exposures and placing objects in front of your lens.

Dragging the shutter while using flash is another one of these techniques and it’s very easy to use.

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Dragging the shutter when using flash is an easy and fun technique to add some interesting effects to your photos. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Dragging the shutter

While it might sound complicated, dragging the shutter is simply using a slower shutter speed than you normally would while using flash.

With flash, your exposure is dictated by your aperture as the flash fires at a much, much faster speed than the sync speed on your camera.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
On the left, you can see the image with just flash. On the right, the shutter speed was changed to 1 second allowing the camera to record the modelling light throughout the exposure. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1/60 sec (Right: 1 sec), f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

By slowing your shutter speed down, you are allowing your camera to record ambient light as well. You will still freeze anything lit by the flash in the frame, but anything lit by the ambient will be recorded with any movement from either the subject or yourself.

Be aware that because your shutter speed is now allowing ambient light to record in your frame, your exposure will be brighter than it was with just the flash recording.

What you need

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
You don’t need much to use this technique. These images were made with a medium-sized modifier on a strobe and a white reflector.
  • A camera with manual settings
  • A flash with a modeling light if in a dark studio
  • Another ambient source of light if you don’t have a modeling light (i.e. speedlights).

How to set it up

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
For a technique whose results can seem complicated, setting it up and getting started is quite straightforward. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1.6 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Step 1: Light and pose your subject as desired. Because this is the pose that the flash is going to record, treat it as you would a normal shot as this will be the main focus of your image.

Step 2: Choose your aperture.

You can either choose your aperture based on the effect you want and set the flash power accordingly, or you can meter your flash and choose your aperture based on that reading.

Step 3: Choose a shutter speed slow enough to allow your subject to move after the flash has fired. This is variable and will depend on how your subject reacts to the technique and the end result that you want. Somewhere between half a second and one second is a good start when dragging the shutter.

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Left: The shutter speed is 1 second. Right: A shutter speed of 2.5 seconds allowed for the subjects second pose to be recorded more clearly. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1sec (Right: 2.5 sec), f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Step 4: Make sure that your subject knows to change their pose as soon as the flash fires. Then hold that second pose (that’s one way to do it) until the shutter closes again.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
You are not limited to one movement. Here the subject move her head to each side on a verbal cue. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 2.5 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Step 5: Take a photo.

When the flash fires, it records the first pose your subject is in. After that, and after your subject moves, everything, including the movement and the second pose, is being recorded by the ambient light.

Step 6: Make adjustments.

Now that you have a test shot, you can evaluate how your image looks and adjust your shutter speed settings. Is your subject not moving fast enough or is the ambient not recording enough? Slow down your shutter speed. Is the ambient recording too much? Choose a faster shutter speed.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
Once you have a shot, evaluate it on the back of the camera and make, or instruct your subject to make, any adjustments to help get the desired effect. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

You can also tweak any instructions you’ve given your subject.

If their poses are too close together, ask them to make sure they’re moving further from their initial position. Are they moving so slow that they’re not arriving at the second pose before the shutter closes? Let them know, and show them the back of the camera.

Since dragging the shutter like this relies on so many variables, communication between you and your subject is key.

Step 7: Take some more.

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Dragging the shutter in this manner can be a tricky thing to get right. Keep going until you are sure you have something.

Dragging the shutter can be a very hit and miss technique. Take as many photos as you can to ensure that you get the result you are after.

Sometimes, magic happens and you might get it in the first few frames, but other times you’ll bang away at it for ages before everything seems to click. Since no two images will ever be the same, don’t be afraid to keep going until you’re confident with the result.

Step 8: Keep experimenting.

Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
When the subject realized that this stool spins, she suggested we see what it looks like. Experimenting like this is a good way to find something new. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1.6 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

There is so much that you can do with dragging the shutter like this. Instead of your subject moving their heads, have them hold their pose and cover their face with their hands once the flash has fired.

Instead of taking a second pose, have them keep moving their head for the duration of the exposure. Alternatively, instead of having your subject move, try moving the camera.

The choices are limitless. Not everything will work, but memory is cheap. Try it anyway and see what comes out.

In the end

Dragging the shutter for creative portraits.
Dragging the shutter is not a complicated technique, but it is one that offers a wealth of opportunities if you like the effects it can provide. EXIF: Canon 5D Mk III, EF 50mm f/2.5 Macro, 50mm, 1 sec, f/9, ISO 100, Manual Mode, Spot Metering.

Dragging the shutter with flash is a very easy technique to use, but it is unpredictable. That’s what makes it so fun. No matter what you do, no two images will be alike, so experiment a lot and see what you can come up with. If you have an idea that you don’t think will work, try it anyway. You’ll never know until you do.

Give this technique a try and share your results with us in the comments section below.

The post Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.


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Nikon F 60th anniversary sale includes a special wristwatch with shutter speed dial

10 Dec

Nikon is celebrating the 60th anniversary of its first SLR camera, the Nikon F introduced in 1959, with a commemorative items sale through the Nikon Museum. The sale is offering several unique Nikon F-themed products, including a wristwatch, coffee mug, an acrylic plate featuring a hand-drawn and written illustration of the Nikon F camera’s components, as well as a revised 2019 Edition of the Nikon Camera History poster.

The Nikon F represents an important part of the company’s history; the model was in production for years before the eventual launch of the Nikon F2 model in 1973. It’s not surprising that Nikon would commemorate the iconic model with a special anniversary sale, one involving limited-production items at very reasonable prices for collectibles.

Though the Nikon F coffee mug is already listed as ‘sold out,’ the Nikon Museum is still offering the acrylic plate camera diagram for 2,240¥ (approx. $ 22), the revised Nikon Camera History poster for 1,220¥ (approx. $ 11), and the Nikon F wristwatch for 19,900¥ (approx. $ 183). The watch is the most notable of the items, featuring an ‘F’ shutter speed dial, the words ‘Nikon Museum,’ and the letter ‘F’ in the watch face.

Nikon Museum advises that each product is offered in limited quantities and that it may prevent buyers from purchasing too many units. Unfortunately, you’ll have to physically visit the Nikon Museum shop in Japan to purchase the items; shipping is not available.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Back to Basics: Deciphering Shutter Speed and Motion

27 Nov

The post Back to Basics: Deciphering Shutter Speed and Motion appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

back-to-basics-shutter-speed-and-motion

One of the things I love about photography is its simplicity. Now, I know that might be a contested statement in today’s seemingly endless world of digital photography. There are hundreds of cameras, likely thousands of lenses and virtually limitless combinations of the two. Not only that, but there are so many ways we can use our cameras. Landscapes, portraiture, street photography, architectural, abstract, wildlife, nature…the list continues. And yet, for all it’s technological and creative facets, the basics of photography remain alarmingly simple even today.

shutter-speed-and-motion-beginner-tutorial

The principles of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO constitute something called the “Exposure Triangle” and yes, I know, you’ve probably heard of it before today. The thing is, it is often these most fundamental nuances of photography that present themselves with the most difficulties, especially for beginners (and some pro) in photography.

It’s shutter speed and motion that we will be discussing today in this edition of “Back to Basics”. To be more precise, we’re going to be talking about the ways shutter speed relates to motion so that you will gain a more concrete understanding of how shutter speed affects your photos.

Shutter speed or shutter time?

Many years have passed since then, but I still remember how confused I was the first time I understood that shutter speed had absolutely nothing to do with how fast the shutter of my camera opened and closed.

Up until then, I had intuitively assumed that some cameras were simply made with faster shutters than others. I mean, come on, give me a break! I was new.

Anyway, I finally realized that shutter speed refers to the amount of time the shutter remains open…and not how fast it mechanically opens or shuts. So many concepts about shutter speed seemed to click (pun intended) in my mind.

shutter-speed-and-motion-beginner-tutorial

One of the greatest epiphanies brought about by this sudden revelation was the direct relationship between the time the shutter is open and how apparent subject motion became within my images. In reality, Einstein was right when he put forth that everything is indeed relative.

So, in a way, there are no slow or fast shutter speeds. There are only longer or shorter shutter times relative to the inherent motion of your camera and subject.

Let’s drill down a little deeper on this.

Shutter speed and the effects of motion

For just a moment, let’s pretend you are the fastest runner in the world – absolutely no other human can beat you in a race. That’s great.

But now I want you to picture yourself running next to a cheetah.

Suddenly, your speed doesn’t seem quite so fast, but let’s not stop there. Let’s say that cheetah decides to race the world’s fastest jet plane, and the jet wins every time. Then put that furiously fast jet up against the speed of light, and, well, you get the idea.

The point is, your camera’s shutter speed interacts with motion in the exact same fashion.

Back to Basics: Deciphering Shutter Speed and Motion

A shutter speed (or think shutter time) of 1 second is no problem at all when your camera is mounted securely on a tripod. Take the camera off the tripod and shoot handheld at the same shutter speed, and it becomes difficult not to introduce camera shake into the image.

The same is true for subject movement; we can blur or freeze motion depending on our selected shutter speed.

shutter-speed-and-motion-beginner-tutorial

Perceivable subject motion is due to the relationship between the amount of time the shutter is open and the speed of the subject itself.

Practical examples

Let’s pick a shutter speed randomly; we’ll say it’s 1/60th of a second. If you’re shooting a still object which has absolutely no motion in relation to your camera, like this switched off ceiling fan, then everything appears calm and still.

Back to Basics: Deciphering Shutter Speed and Motion

For the time being, we’re just going to pretend that you love shooting photos of ceiling fans. So you decide to snap another image with the fan now switched on, and the situation changes.

The blades of the fan are now moving through space much faster than 1/60th of a second shutter speed can capture with the result being perceived blurring of the blades.

Image: At 1/60th of a second, the blades have blurred

At 1/60th of a second, the blades have blurred

This is where Einstein sweeps in to save us. All we have to do to take control of the motion of the blades is to make our shutter speed faster than the speed of those ceiling fan blades. Let’s dial it in.

shutter-speed-and-motion-beginner-tutorial

At 1/125th of a second, the motion begins to become less pronounced…

Image: …and 1/500th of a second all but completely freezes the motion of the blades. Another s...

…and 1/500th of a second all but completely freezes the motion of the blades. Another stop faster (1/1000th) and the motion would be completed arrested.

The implications of this are absolutely profound for you and your photography. Once you understand that shutter speed is the deciding factor in controlling the amount of perceived subject motion in your images, you can then control how apparent that motion appears in your photo.

How does shutter speed relate to ISO and aperture?

So how exactly does the shutter speed play into the whole Exposure Triangle thing? I’m glad you asked.

All of the pieces of the Triangle: ISO, aperture, and shutter speed; all of them determine the amount and duration of light that enters your camera. Each of these factors complements each other in that you can achieve similar exposure outcomes by adjusting the variables in relation to one another. In our case, since we’re dealing with shutter speed, we’ll be needing to adjust our aperture and/or ISO to compensate for our shutter speed selection.

shutter-speed-and-motion-beginner-tutorial

Entire articles (and books) here at Digital Photography School have been written on each of these subjects, so I’ll be brief. But be sure to check out this cool cheat sheet on the Exposure Triangle for more info.

Simply put, for every full stop of adjustment in shutter speed you make, you are either doubling or halving the amount of light which enters your camera. This means a shutter speed of 1/250th of a second is twice as fast and lets in half the amount of light as 1/125th of a second.

Alternatively, a shutter speed of 1/60th of a second is approximately twice as slow as 1/125th, and therefore lets in double the amount of light. So, 1/250th of a second is one stop faster than 1/125th of a second with 1/60th of a second being one stop slower.

You still might be saying, “but what does this have to do with aperture and ISO?” We’re about to find out, I promise.

The connection comes into play when you realize that ISO and aperture are also measured in stops, albeit in slightly different ways, but in stops nonetheless. This means that we can directly relate shutter speed to our ISO and aperture by thinking in terms of stops.

shutter-speed-and-motion-beginner-tutorial

Let’s say we are shooting a moving subject at 1/60th of a second at F/5.6 and ISO 100. The image is exposed correctly, but the subject is blurred. We find that a shutter speed of 1/250th of a second (two stops faster) will freeze the motion, but it also leaves our scene underexposed by two stops since we have effectively decreased the amount of light by a factor of four.

To maintain our exposure, we must somehow compensate for the reduced amount of light from the faster shutter speed by either increasing the ISO by two stops or shoot an aperture that is two stops wider than F/5.6. So to maintain the same exposure, our new exposure settings would be either 1/250th of a second at F/2.8 and ISO 100 or 1/250th of a second at F/5.6 and ISO 400.

Some considerations for shutter speed

Here are a few helpful tips that you should keep in mind when it comes to shutter speed. Some of these are simply good everyday practices, and others might be new to you.

  • The longer the focal length of your lens (higher zoom), the more apparent subject motion and camera shake will become. So plan accordingly if you are intending to employ longer shutter speeds by making sure you have a sturdy tripod and even a remote shutter release for your camera.
  • At times there will be situations when you can’t equalize your exposure using your camera settings alone and still achieve the level of motion you want for your final photos. This is where a good quality neutral density filter will truly be worth its weight in gold. I recommend keeping at least one in your bag no matter what sort of photography you shoot.
  • When shooting long exposures of the night sky, make use of the “600 Rule” to approximate the longest shutter time possible before stars begin to streak based upon your lenses’ focal length. The 600 Rule states that 600 dived by your focal length will give you an approximate maximum shutter speed from which you can base your other exposure factors.
  • Reduce camera shake when shooting handheld by implementing what’s known as the “Reciprocity Rule”. Simply put, this guideline states that you should not shoot a shutter speed which is slower than 1 over your focal length. This means that with a full-frame sensor and an 85mm lens, you should never shoot slower than 1/85th of a second. If you’re using a crop sensor camera, then the formula would be 1 over (focal length x sensor crop factor). You can find the crop factors for virtually all digital camera sensors with a quick web search.
  • Use mirror-lockup (if your camera has this feature) when making long exposures. In DSLR/SLR cameras, the mirror mechanism flips out of the way during exposure. This can cause camera shake, especially when using a lightweight camera and lens setup. Mirror-lockup moves the mirror out of the way prior to exposure so that the camera remains as steady as possible.
  • Cover your viewfinder during extremely long exposures. Much like mirror-lockup, DLSR/SLR cameras make use of an optical viewfinder which means light can creep in through the viewfinder during long exposures. It’s a good idea to cover the viewfinder with tape, a lens cloth, or the dedicated viewfinder cover that comes attached to some camera straps should you be shooting ultra-long exposures (upwards of a minute or more) to ensure stray light doesn’t ruin your exposure. Some older film DSLR cameras actually have a build-in viewfinder cover for this exact reason.

Summing up shutter speed

If you’re just getting into photography, I hope this article on deciphering shutter speed and motion helps to demystify some of the enigma surrounding shutter speed (time) and aids you in becoming a more confident photo maker.

If you’re a seasoned photographer, then hopefully the information here will serve as a gentle refresher course on just how simple it is to control your photos using only the most basic of photographic principles.

Shutter speed is directly related to motion and therefore becomes a relative construct based on the inherent motion in our scene (or camera). Depending on the desired outcome, we can control the perception of this motion using our shutter speed.

Shutter speeds that are relatively slower than the motion in the scene will cause blurring. Shutter speeds relatively faster than the motion within the scene will freeze that motion. That is truly priceless knowledge, and once you learn how shutter speed interacts with aperture and ISO, you will be able to have virtually complete control over your photography. Once you understand the basic fundamentals of photo making, everything else becomes almost secondary.

 

Do you have any other tips on shutter speed and motion that you would like to share? Please do so in the comments!

The post Back to Basics: Deciphering Shutter Speed and Motion appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Video: 37 different camera shutter sounds in 3 minutes

06 Oct

Similar to how no two fingerprints are identical, no two camera shutter sounds are exactly the same. As a fun little project, photographer and YouTuber Scott Graham has captured the shutter sound of 37 different camera models to show off the diversity of shutter sounds and to memorialize a number of cameras he’s selling.

In the video, which comes in just shy of four minutes, Graham succinctly captures the unique shutter sounds of all 37 cameras, ranging from analog SLR cameras to digital Fujifilm cameras. Each shutter sound was captured as close to 1/60th of a second as possible for consistency’s sake.

Graham didn’t elaborate on whether or not he will continue to do this with future cameras he acquires, but we think it’d be incredible to build an archive of shutter sounds from various cameras. What camera has the most pleasing sound to your ears, both from Graham’s collection and your own?

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Technical readouts reveal faster shutter speeds, improved ISO and more in iPhone 11 Pro

20 Sep

Like he did last year for the iPhone XS, Sebastiaan de With, co-founder of the iOS camera app Halide, has again made use his app’s technical readout feature to obtain additional camera specifications above and beyond what can be found in the official spec sheet. He’s broken down the data and compared the new iPhone 11 Pro to last year’s XS model. Let’s have a closer look at his findings:

The 11 Pro main camera comes with a 6-element lens that offers a 26mm equivalent focal length and F1.8 aperture. The chart below details the changes between the XS and the new model. As you can see the base ISO on all of the camera modules has increased by half a stop, the maximum shutter speed has been increased from 1/22,000 sec to a whopping 1/125,000 sec and the maximum ISO has been expanded to ISO 3072 vs the previous ISO 2304 limit, coinciding with the increased base ISO level.

It’s not quite clear at this point what the blisteringly fast shutter speeds could be used for. The increased maximum ISO doesn’t necessarily mean that the new iPhone will produce lower levels of image noise at a given ISO setting but it should be able to achieve better exposures in very dark settings.

Apple iPhone XS versus 11 Pro main camera comparison, source: Halide

As before, the telephoto cameras features a 52mm equivalent focal length but now comes with a faster F2.0 aperture. This should improve low light tele photos and should also produce a more visible ‘natural’ bokeh than on the iPhone XS.

Apple iPhone XS versus 11 Pro tele camera comparison, source: Halide

The iPhone XS did not come with an ultra-wide camera, so we can’t compare but the new camera offers a 13mm equivalent field-of-view, an F2.4 aperture lens and phase detection AF.

Apple iPhone 11 Pro ultra-wide camera specifications, source: Halide

The front camera has been updated, too. It now features faster shutter speeds, a higher maximum ISO, larger image output size and a wider field-of-view.

Apple iPhone XS versus 11 Pro front camera comparison, source: Halide

Overall the hardware changes don’t look too impressive on paper, but they are of course only a (small) part of the whole story as Sebastiaan points out in the blog post:

‘It’s kind of unbelievable that even with the glowing reviews out today, Apple has said that there’s more software processing yet to come. We’re told Deep Fusion is a very big leap in post-processing quality, but with the changes to Smart HDR, Semantic Mapping in the imaging pipeline and discrete situational processing like Night Mode, these specs are the furthest from the whole story on the new iPhone cameras yet.’

The Halide app is available from the iOS App Store for iPhone and Apple Watch and will set you back $ 6.

Image credits: Charts used with permission from Sebastiaan de With, developer of Halide.

Updated (September 19, 2019): Edited to clarify the increased ISO ratings and base ISO levels.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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