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How to Take Creative Landscape Shots Using Intentional Camera Movement

21 Feb

The post How to Take Creative Landscape Shots Using Intentional Camera Movement appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Richard Beech.

If you’re looking to capture some unique, creative photos, then I highly recommend trying out intentional camera movement photography.

Now, many photographic situations rely on ensuring your camera is still as possible during exposure for pin-sharp images. But is keeping your camera still always a good thing?

Instead, why not throw caution to the wind, move your camera while the shutter is open, and explore the range of creative opportunities this offers you as a photographer?

In this article, I’ll show you how to do exactly that!

What is intentional camera movement and why should you use it?

Intentional camera movement (or ICM for short) is a photographic technique where you move the camera as the image is taken.

bluebell woods intentional camera movement

One example of ICM is panning. The camera follows a moving subject in order to keep the subject sharp and the background blurred.

But while panning can get some great results, it’s actually a pretty tame form of ICM. Moving your camera during the exposure can open up many more creative options for you to try out.

In particular, intentional camera movement can be used to take some truly unique landscape shots. The technique can be exceptionally liberating, and by reducing the number of sharp details in a landscape, it allows you to concentrate on line, form, and color in your images.

In fact, with ICM, a scene that you may ordinarily consider too cluttered might just come to life – by letting you blend colors and shapes for an interesting abstract shot.

One of the reasons I have grown to love ICM is that it enables you to capture a landscape in a unique and personal way that cannot easily be reproduced. It can even breathe new life into overly familiar scenes, letting you see and capture something unique about a location you may have photographed many times before.

If you’re struggling to find inspiration for your next photographic project, or you want to get your creative juices flowing, intentional camera movement is a technique that you should try at least once.

In fact, it’s relatively easy to take some striking shots with ICM.

Plus, it can be a lot of fun!

So let’s take a look at how intentional camera movement photography actually works:

The best settings for intentional camera movement photography

A key factor to get right when using ICM is your shutter speed.

You see, the exposure needs to be long enough to capture significant motion blur (though different shutter speeds will give different effects).

In general, I recommend anything from 1/3s or 1/2s all the way down to multi-second exposures. Of course, you’re always free to experiment with faster or slower shutter speeds; the core of a creative technique like ICM is simply playing around.

Because of these lengthy shutter speeds, shooting in low-light conditions is ideal for ICM. During the daytime, it can be harder to achieve the required shutter speeds, even at your camera’s lowest ISO setting and your lens’s smallest aperture (i.e., highest f-stop number).

If you do decide to shoot in the day, you may need to use a polarizing filter, a neutral density (ND) filter, or a combination of both. Personally, I prefer to use a polarizing filter as a starting point, as this helps to boost colors and cut down on reflections and glare. I will then add a 2-stop or a 4-stop ND filter if the shutter speed needs to be slowed down any further.

When starting out with ICM, it can help to shoot in Shutter Priority mode. Set the shutter speed to around half a second to start, then turn the ISO to the lowest available setting on your camera.

Once you have practiced at this shutter speed, you can use longer exposure times thanks to a combination of low light and filters.

Make sure you focus manually in advance, and turn off the autofocus to prevent the camera from searching for focus during the long exposure.

Also, if you are using a lens that has image stabilization, remember to turn this off.

How to move your camera

Once you have taken control of the shutter speed, the next step is to determine how you’ll move the camera after pressing the shutter button.

Get creative; there are no rules! You can move the camera vertically, horizontally, or diagonally. You can move it fast or slow. Alternatively, you can rotate the camera 360 degrees to create a spiral effect, or change the focal length on a zoom lens during exposure to create a zoom effect.

With practice, you can combine two or more of these movements to create something truly unique. The look and feel of your final images will be determined by the speed, direction, and smoothness of your chosen movements.

Note that you can always use a tripod to control the camera movement. This will help you to capture a smoother result, which can be useful if you wish to retain a straight horizon line.

(Personally, I prefer to work handheld when moving the camera, as it offers greater flexibility and provides more opportunities to experiment with different movements.)

Bold movements can sometimes be more effective, as there is a risk that subtle movements may end up looking like camera shake in the final image.

So bear in mind:

While waving your camera around may not come naturally and may result in you getting some funny looks from amused onlookers, the end results will definitely be worth it!

What to shoot for the best results

Now that you know how to capture beautiful ICM photos, all that’s left is to pick your ICM subjects.

A good place to begin is by looking for locations that offer striking colors, lines, or patterns.

Forests are a favorite ICM subject of mine, particularly during the spring and autumn seasons. Clean, parallel lines provided by the trees, as well as the vibrant colors of nature (created by flowers in the spring and fallen leaves in autumn), lend themselves to a vertical camera movement shot. The movement can be from the top down or from the bottom up, and it can be fast or slow; it really just depends on the effect you wish to capture and how experimental you want to be.

intentional camera movement in bluebell woods

Seascapes can be a good starting point for side-to-side camera movement, where you pan the camera in line with the horizon. Alternatively, in rougher waters, you can try to match the movement of your camera to the movement of the waves for an altogether different effect.

Shooting at sunrise or sunset can provide you with a greater variety of colors to work with, and shooting city lights after dark can also offer a wide range of creative options.

Once you’ve identified a suitable location, you will probably find yourself taking multiple shots with various different movements.

(I should warn you that intentional camera movement photography can sometimes be quite addictive, and you’ll often find your memory cards filling up quickly!)

You may find it useful to set your camera to shoot in burst mode so that you can take a series of shots in quick succession while moving the camera in a particular direction.

That way, you’ll end up with a lot of images to choose from – plus, every new shot will offer you a slightly different composition and effect!

A few intentional camera movement tips

As with any type of photography, images created using intentional camera movement are not going to be to everybody’s taste.

It’s a highly subjective art form, and what works for you will not work for others.

Also, keep in mind basic principles of photography, such as composition and exposure – these are still very important!

Also, while the ICM technique will give you a very abstract result, you may find it helpful to have at least one element of the scene sharp or recognizable in the final image.

Finally, there is an element of trial and error when starting out with intentional camera movement. You’ll quickly find out what works for you and what doesn’t; this will help you develop your own style.

And don’t be too concerned if you do not get an effect you like right away – the technique can be quite hit-and-miss sometimes. Take a lot of shots, and don’t be too quick to delete images that you feel haven’t worked. There is a chance that, after a few days, you may take another look and see something that you like, after all!

Intentional camera movement photography: The next step

One of the great things about intentional camera movement photography is that it is all about how you express yourself!

Think of your camera as your paintbrush.

Get creative, have fun, and start seeing landscapes in an exciting new way.

Now over to you:

Do you have any intentional camera movement photos you’d like to share? Please feel free to display them in the comments below!

The post How to Take Creative Landscape Shots Using Intentional Camera Movement appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Richard Beech.

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Sony a7C sample gallery updated, with more shots from compact 28-60mm kit lens

22 Sep

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Sony’s a7C is a really compact full-frame camera – especially when paired with the new FE 28-60mm F3.5-5.6 kit lens. We’ve been doing plenty of shooting with the combo and have updated our gallery to show you just what you can expect.

Check out our gallery of sample images

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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This Drone Photography Checklist will Ensure You Never Miss Your Shots

11 Jul

The post This Drone Photography Checklist will Ensure You Never Miss Your Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

Capturing stunning images with your drone is incredibly exciting. But with so many things to think about before you take off, there can also be some nervousness wrapped up with that excitement. The first few times I flew my drone, I struggled to remember everything. Did I put a memory card in the drone? How strong would the wind be? Did I charge all the batteries? Did I need permission to launch my drone at the beach? Trying to keep track of all these issues was exhausting, but the one thing that made my life much easier was keeping a drone photography checklist with my backpack.

Drone photography by Matt Murray — A drone photography checklist can help you get the most out of every flight.

The process of checking through this list the day before a planned flight – as well as just before I left home – helped me to be calmer and better prepared.

Below is my drone photography checklist to ensure that you don’t forget anything and are flying as safe as possible.

1. Before you leave the house

Planning for your flight should start before you leave the house, preferably the day before the flight. There are three things I typically check: air space, location and the weather conditions.

a. Airspace

This is quite possibly the most important check you’ll need to do: are you legally allowed to fly your drone in the airspace above your launch location? And if so, to what height can you ascend to? Do national limits apply or is there a local restriction?

Making sure you understand the laws that govern airspace where you fly your drone is incredibly important and can potentially save you a lot of trouble.

Drone photography guide — Even if you are allowed to legally fly in the airspace, it’s important that you keep watch for other aircraft.

If you are able to fly in that airspace, you also need to check who else could be flying there too. Take a look at your proposed launch location using Google Maps – are there any helicopter pads, airports or airfields in the vicinity? Are there any model aircraft clubs or paragliding locations nearby? Is it a popular place that other drone enthusiasts might use? You need to take all these issues into consideration when planning your flight.

b. Location

As well as considering the airspace where you plan to fly, you also need to take into account what local laws govern the flying of drones in the city, state, or region you’re in. Even if you can technically fly in the airspace, local laws or rules may ban drones flying at those locations. For example, many national parks in Australia do not allow drones.

Another factor to consider is if you need the landowner’s permission to take off at your proposed launch location. Many local councils publish information on their websites regarding places you can and can’t launch your drone from. It’s always best to check beforehand well ahead of time, especially if you need to apply or seek permission before your flight.

c. Weather conditions

It’s always a good idea to check the forecasted weather conditions ahead of time. Many weather websites predict wind speeds for the next few days – this is invaluable for drone owners. If the predicted wind speeds are too high, it may be necessary to delay your flight.

Drone photography checklist — Weather websites can predict wind conditions for the next few days, which invaluable for drone owners.

Also, keep an eye on other weather conditions. For example, is there any rain on the radar map? Are thunderstorms predicted? For morning flights, what are the chances of fog limiting visibility?

Also, think about the possibility of bright sunshine impairing your ability to see your drone in the sky or view the device that controls your aircraft.

2. Equipment

A drone photography checklist is also very handy for keeping track of your equipment. A checklist can help you to remember to pack everything you’ll need, as well as making sure your equipment is ready for your flight.

First of all, check that all of your batteries are fully charged the day before the flight. This can take some time, so doing it half an hour before you plan to leave the house is not a good idea.

Next, check your drone over to make sure that it’s in perfect working condition. This includes making sure the propellers are not damaged or have nicks in them.

Next, check that you have all of your accessories packed and ready to go. The accessories I pack include a set of neutral density filters, a launchpad, and, of course, at least one memory card.

Make sure your memory cards have enough space on them to record multiple videos and images during your flight. Also, check that you’ve copied the contents of the memory card to your hard drive if you decide to format it beforehand.

Finally, check that the device you use to control your drone (smartphone or tablet) is fully charged and that you have the latest drone software updated on it, ready to go.

3. At your launch location

When you arrive at your launch location, it’s important to have a good look around and assess the area where you’ll fly. Even after you’ve done your homework about the airspace, the location and the weather, there still can be significant risks.

Take a look around when you arrive at the location: what risks are present? Are there any power poles? Are there groups of children playing nearby? Check if there are any dogs off leash in the vicinity. Here in Australia, we also have the possibility of birds swooping you or your drone.

If you have a launch pad, set it up somewhere flat away from other people. Some people also carry bright cones to mark out a small area to warn other people that a drone will be taking off and landing in the vicinity.

Start your device and your drone. Make sure you calibrate your compass before the flight and that the drone records the home point at your launch location.

Double-check your memory card is inside the drone – there is nothing more annoying than going to take a photo or a video before realizing it’s in your bag on the ground. Take a look at the lighting conditions: do you need to use an ND (neutral density) filter? If so, which one is best suited to the light today?

Before you take off, also make sure your smartphone or device is set to “do not disturb’ mode.

As you fly your drone, keep an eye out for other aircraft in the airspace, the weather conditions, and people or animals on the ground near your location. If it’s safe to do so, try to take a range of different shots with your drone. If you need ideas, check out my article, 7 shots to incorporate for better drone photography.

4. Post-flight

After your flight is completed, ensure everything is turned off correctly in the right order. Inspect your aircraft and propellers for damage.

Have a checklist of the items you brought with you and tick them off as you pack everything away. Drone ND filters are very small – you don’t want to leave one behind at your launch location.

When you get home, have a regular routine of how you pack your kit away. If you plan on flying again soon, put your batteries on charge again.

Copy your images and videos from your micro SD card ready for your next flight. If you have two or three verified copies of the images, at that point, you may wish to format your memory card, ready for your next flight.

Conclusion

A drone photography checklist is a great idea to keep you prepared and to ensure you are taking reasonable steps to fly safely and legally. Instead of worrying that I have forgotten to do something while driving to my location, I now head out confident that I have taken steps to prepare for the flight.

I start working through the checklist 24 hours before any planned drone activities. This gives me plenty of time to get things sorted, as well as providing me with some reassurance that I am a responsible drone flyer. My checklist is also a big help when packing my gear before the flight, and when packing up afterward.

I’d encourage you to create your own list to print out and keep with your drone backpack, ready to check before you take to the skies. What else would you add to your drone photography checklist? Tell us in the comments below.

Drone Photography Preflight Checklist Feature Image

Drone checklist summary

You can download the PDF drone photography checklist here to keep and print out. That way, you will never miss getting your shots. Alternatively, you can just refer to the list below.

Airspace

Am I legally allowed to fly my drone in the airspace above this location?
What is the maximum height I can fly my drone at this location?
Will other aircraft be in the vicinity? (planes, helicopters, hot air balloons, drones, model aircraft, paragliders).

Location

Do I need the landowner’s permission to launch my drone at this location?
Will there be a lot of people at this location? How will I keep my drone away from other people? Will there be distractions such as dogs, children or birds?

Equipment

Are all of my drone batteries charged?
Does my memory card have enough space for images and videos for my next flight?
Is my smartphone or device fully charged? Does it have the latest version of the drone operating software on?
Is my drone in perfect working order? Are the propellers clean with no issues?
Do I have all the accessories I need? E.g. Cables, launch pad, ND filters.

Weather

What is the estimated wind speed for the time of my flight? Will I need to take any extra precautions due to the wind speed?
Are any storms or extreme weather events expected? Will bright conditions make it difficult to view my device?

Pre-flight

Risk assessment at the location.
Calibrate compass and record home point.
Check memory card is in the drone.
Check shot list.

During flight

Continually monitor conditions (weather, airspace, ground issues).

Post-flight

Examine equipment for any issues or faults.
Ensure all items (drone, ND filters, propellers) are accounted for.

The post This Drone Photography Checklist will Ensure You Never Miss Your Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

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7 Shots to Incorporate for Better Drone Photography

02 Jul

The post 7 Shots to Incorporate for Better Drone Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

Flying drones has become an extremely popular pastime in recent years. It can be both incredibly exciting (and also a little nerve-wracking) to see your drone take to the skies for the first time. As your flying skills grow and improve, it’s time to think of the range and variety of aerial images you shoot. Whether you’re coming to drones from a model aircraft background, a photography background, or with no previous experience, here are seven types of aerial shots you can incorporate in your repertoire for better drone photography.

Seven shots for better drone photography

So why seven different shots? The truth is, there’s no magic number of image taking techniques in any photographic situation, but I have highlighted seven different shots that I use on a regular basis that you can try out the next time you’re out flying.

One thing is for certain: buying a drone (like buying a camera) is not a sure-fire way to produce stunning images. It takes hard work and experimentation to get it right.

1. The horizon shot

This is one of the most common images beginner drone photographers take, where the drone is high above the ground and points straight ahead for a spectacular horizon shot. As with all photography, lighting is important for these shots – I’ve seen many horizon shots taken at the wrong time of the day, which does not flatter the landscape.

It’s also good to keep in mind the rule of thirds (and other compositional rules) for your shots – try to remember them when you position your drone camera angle.

I often see images with both the sky and land taking up half of the frame each. However, all rules are meant to be broken – I didn’t stick rigidly to the rule of thirds when I took this image of a remote beach in New South Wales.

Horizon shot of the stunning coastline in northern New South Wales.

When you’re taking your horizon shots, also make sure you take them in both portrait and landscape orientation for maximum versatility. You can even consider doing a large panorama of the horizon made up of multiple images while your drone is at that height.

2. The long overhead shot

Another common photo many beginners take is the long overhead shot. Ascending up to the maximum allowable height limit, pan your camera down towards the ground and take an overhead shot straight down towards the ground. Objects such as cars and boats appear tiny and you will barely be able to make out people in the image.

Long overhead shot at low tide on Brisbane's Bayside by Matt Murray - better drone photography — Long overhead shot at low tide on Brisbane’s Bayside.

Although these first two shots are an important part of your repertoire, there are many other possibilities for better drone photography, so remember to take a range of images when you’re flying.

3. The short overhead shot

Many drone photographers, especially beginners, think the higher up the better. This is not necessarily the case, as stunning, unique perspectives can be had from quite low altitudes.

Having your drone at even just 5-10 meters above the ground provides an opportunity to take an image with lots of interesting detail from a completely different perspective than you would usually see.

The image below is a close up of boats on Brisbane’s Bayside. I had just finished taking the long overhead shot and decided to bring the drone down to capture a close-up of boats from a much lower height. With a short overhead shot, you can capture a lot more detail of objects in the scene.

Better Drone photography by Matt Murray — Short overhead shot of boats on Brisbane’s Bayside.

People in the landscape

People in the landscape can often make captivating images. By placing one or more people in your scene, it adds interest and variety to your landscape images. With the added impact of having the unique aerial view from a drone, this is one way for you to create stunning drone images.

In the first image below, I watched as my daughter took her surfboard out into the sea off Iluka in New South Wales. Her presence adds interest to what would otherwise just be a shot of the beach.

a person entering the surf at the beach taken by a drone — Figure in the landscapes add an extra dimension to landscape photos.

In this next image taken in neighbouring Yamba, I took an overhead shot of the historic Ocean Baths. The image shows someone enjoying a morning swim, and a surfer heading across the beach.

Matt Murray's drone photo of Yamba Ocean Pool. Better Drone Photography — Figures in the landscape at Yamba’s Ocean Pool.

Leading lines

Leading lines are a common compositional technique. It’s where a line or lines lead your eye through the various elements of the photograph. I took this image of Urangan Pier in Hervey Bay, Australia an hour after sunrise. The lines of the pier lead your eye through the image to the mainland in the distance. The rule of thirds is also in play here.

There are lots of leading lines that you can use in your compositions for better drone photography – both natural and human-made. Look for them next time and make them work for you.

Leading lines in action - Urangan Pier at Hervey Bay in Queensland. — Leading lines in action – Urangan Pier at Hervey Bay in Queensland.

Textures

Sometimes when you fly your drone over repetitive landscapes, you may feel like there’s nothing worth photographing, but that isn’t always the case. Keep your eyes open for scenes that show textures in the landscape, such as the pine forest in the image below.

When I flew my DJI Mavic Pro over this area in rural Queensland, I was amazed by the textures of the pine needles on the trees below me, punctuated by the brown soil and the tree trunks.

Look for areas with repeating patterns of trees, sand, crops, anything!

Textures of a Queensland pine forest.
Brisbane drone photography by Matt Murray — Textures of a Queensland pine forest.

Abstract shot

One of the fantastic things about flying a drone is that it opens up new ways of seeing our beautiful world. I am constantly amazed by how landscapes look from an aerial perspective. With this in mind, look for better drone photography opportunities via abstract shots where there is a mix of colors, lines, and shapes on the ground below.

I took the image below at the beach in New South Wales. I love the yellow, whites and greens of the sand and sea.

Conclusion

Better drone photography is a combination of many things. Not only do you need to build your skills and confidence by improving your flying, but you also need to add variety to the types of images you take with your drone.

In this article I’ve featured some of the different types of shots I like to take when I’m flying my drone. Horizon shots are a staple among many drone photographers, as are long overhead shots. If you haven’t already, look for opportunities to take short overhead shots, textures, abstract images, and use leading lines. If it’s safe to do so, also look to incorporate people in your landscape images to add more interest and variety.

What other types of shots do you like to take for better drone photography? Tell us in the comments below. And if you haven’t bought a drone yet, be sure to check out my photographer’s guide to buying a drone.

The post 7 Shots to Incorporate for Better Drone Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

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Tips for Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations So You Can Get the Best Shots

14 Feb

The post Tips for Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations So You Can Get the Best Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

You’ve saved money to go to that great photo spot, marked your calendar, put in for vacation time, and are already thinking about the photos you want to make. The trouble is, you’ve never been there. Your time will be limited. You want to be able to use it to make pictures, not scouting to find where to go and when to be there for best locations and light. How can you “know before you go?” Welcome to the “Twenty-Twenties,” a time when cyber-scouting photo locations can be the next best thing to being there.

Where is this? You tell me. Cyber-scouting photo locations will teach you how to see before you go, log GPS coordinates, and then get to the specific spot once you’re near. 1/100 – f/11 – ISO 200. Now, plug these coordinates into your browser and tell me where this is – 42°4’55.464″N 113°43’31.974″W

Cyber-scouting?

I thought I’d coined a new term, but a quick Google search proved otherwise.

Many people who are planning trips now “cyber-scout” the internet to pre-plan their journey. Hunters, backpackers, vacation travelers – all kinds of folks have discovered the usefulness of these online tools.

It only makes sense that we, as photographers, tap into the ability to see photos and survey sites we’re planning to visit before we even get there.

My photo buddy Dan and I made a dream-trip a few years ago, photographing New England in the autumn. Living 2,600 miles away in Idaho, it wasn’t like we had much familiarity with the area. As we’d only be there less than a week, scouting once we had “boots on the ground” wasn’t going to be possible.

Wasting time getting lost wasn’t an option either.

Avalanche Falls, Flume Gorge, New Hampshire

Had I not done some cyber-scouting for photo locations before my New England Trip, I’d never have known about Avalanche Falls in the Flume Gorge of New Hampshire. Moreover, I would have never been able to make this shot. 5 seconds, f/20, ISO 200

Dan prefers not to see too many photos of a spot before he goes, concerned it will overly influence what he shoots. He’d rather see it with “new eyes” and create unique compositions.

I can appreciate that viewpoint, but I’m different.

Planning a trip, pre-visualizing the locations, seeing the spots, and anticipating being there is like getting two trips in one. It’s a virtual-reality vacation, plus a real-reality trip where, once I’m there, I already have some familiarity. Different strokes, I guess.

It worked though – I became the planner/navigator, and he just made great shots on the trip. (He’s a much better photographer than I, but that’s another story for another day.)

Pre-Planning a photo trip with Google MyMaps

Once I located locations we might want to go, I plotted everything out using my GPS coordinates and Google MyMaps.

Where to be and when to be there

When asked the secret to his great photos, a famous New York spot-news photographer is thought to have originated this photography quote –

“f/8 and be there.” – Arthur “Weegee” Fellig

The idea is that being at the right location at the right time is more important to make a great photo than all the technical equipment and technique combined. So, when you are planning to photograph somewhere you’ve never been, how do you know what are good locations, and what are good times to be there?

That is precisely the reason for cyber-scouting photo locations.

A GPS primer

Locations can be referred to in many ways. The simplest is the place name. Photographer friends we told about going to New England said a not-to-miss spot was Acadia National Park. Good general information, but how about specific spots?

Okay, “be sure to get to the Bass Harbor Lighthouse,” they said. Traditionally, we might have found the spot with a paper map, written directions, and perhaps some coaching from the locals.

Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse in Google Earth

A search for the Bass Harbor Lighthouse on Google Earth and there you are.

These days we have GPS (Global Positioning Satellite) navigation equipment, in our cars, on our phones, and in many other devices. Any spot on Earth with an unobstructed line-of-sight view to four or more GPS satellites can be precisely defined.

The Bass Harbor Lighthouse is at 44°13’19.27N, 68°20’14.79W.

The first set of numbers is how far north of the equator the place is, the second how far west of the Prime Meridian – unless you’re in the Southern Hemisphere.

Places south of the equator and east of the Prime Meridian have GPS coordinates like this: 33°51’23.68S, 151°12’53.49E. These are coordinates for the Sydney Opera House in Australia.

Copy and paste those coordinates into your web browser, and you’ll bring up a map of those precise spots.

Sydney Opera House GPS coordinates in Google Earth

In the southern hemisphere, the GPS coordinates are slightly different. The Sydney Opera House in Australia is “down under” with coordinates south and east of the Prime Meridian.

We’ll come back to why you want to know this in a bit. In the meantime, stick a pin in that spot while we explore other ways to develop a list of locations you want to visit on your photo trip.

Books

You remember books, right? Those paper things we read before we had computers, tablets, phones, and other devices?

If the spot for your trip is well-known, the chances are good that someone will have written a book about it. For our trip, we picked up “Photographing Acadia National Park,” by Colleen Minuk-Sperry. It turned out to be a great resource.

We later took a workshop with Dave Long of Blue Hour Photo Ventures. Dave has written numerous e-books on great New England photo locations and has included the GPS coordinates of each spot, making cyber-scouting them online and later getting there a breeze.

Find out if there are good books written about your intended photo location.

Location Websites

Do you think there’s a spot no one has written about on a website?

Guess again.

Say your boss decides to send you on a business trip to Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland. (If he does, he might be telling you something). Should you take your camera?

Where is it, and what’s there?

Google “Top Photo Spots in Ittoqqortoormiit” and yup, you’ll find photos. You’ll find companies giving photo tours. You’ll find photos on 500px by others who have been there.

Even though it is one of the most remote places in the world, you can still cyber-scout it and know what you’ll see before you go. (Or I can view the photos a friend of mine in our photo club took when he visited Greenland with noted landscape photographer Art Wolfe. Unbelievable!)

Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland with Google Earth

Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland is listed as one of the most remote populated places on earth, yet cyber-scouting photo locations with Google Earth makes it easy to take a “virtual tour.”

My point is, it’s unlikely you’ll find a place anywhere in the world not discussed and pictured on the web. Plugin the GPS coordinates (70.4849752,-21.9729592) for Ittoqqortoormiit (don’t worry if you can’t pronounce it), and off you go, no sled dogs required.

Photo websites

I couldn’t even begin to name all the online sites where photographers post their photos. Cyber-scouting photo locations on such sites can be a virtual tour of the area you plan to visit.

See a spot you like? Make a note of the place name and then search for it. 500px is a favorite place of mine. For our Acadia National Park trip, I found over 7,000 photos. Heck, even for Ittoqqortoormiit, there were 81 photos the night I checked.

Flickr alone had over 6,000 posted photos of the Bass Harbor Lighthouse when I checked. I think there might have been half of those photographers there the day we visited! Iconic spots have become even more known since the internet.

Another good photo location to check is Flickr. (They had over 1,500 photos of Ittoqqortoomiit when I looked.)

Many of the photos posted there have the GPS coordinates recorded, and with a few clicks, you’re off on your virtual tour.

Come fly with me

What if you could send your “virtual drone” off on a mission cyber-scouting photo locations? That’s pretty much what you have with Google Earth.

“Fly” to a location, see it from different angles, zoom in, look for place names, see photos others have taken there, and get the GPS coordinates.

It’s a great way to scout a spot before going.

Bass Harbor Lighthouse Summer Sunset - Google Earth

Use the emulation mode of Google Earth to enter the date and time, turn on the sun, move the slider and see when and where the sunset will be. On 8/18/20 it will be straight up the shoreline from the lighthouse and set at 7:31 p.m. EDT.

Let’s fly over the Bass Harbor Lighthouse. Which would be the better angle – shoot toward the east or west? What if I want to get the sunset?

If I’m there on a particular date, where will the sun set, and at what time? How will it all line-up? Google Earth can emulate all of that.

Fly to the spot, activate the sunlight slider, enter the time and date you plan to be there, and move the slider to watch how the light moves across the landscape. Cool huh?

The wildcard is what the weather will be when you’re there.

You can anticipate the weather a couple of days out with weather apps. You can decide if you should go or maybe seek an alternate spot.

Another reason for cyber-scouting photo locations is to have a “Plan-B” should the weather not cooperate.

There are also a bunch of good weather apps useful for photographers. Even with all my best scouting, the evening we went to the Bass Harbor Lighthouse, the sunset was a bust with heavy cloud cover. Some things still can’t be totally planned. Still, I thought I made a decent shot, regardless.

Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations - Bass Harbor Lighthouse on a cloudy day

It’s hard to make a unique shot of this location, especially with a few dozen other photographers all standing a few feet apart hoping for a nice sunset. All my cyber-scouting still couldn’t conjure better light. You do what you can. 6 seconds – f/11 – ISO 200

Make your shot different

One problem with going to an iconic photo location is that so many other photographers have probably been there already (you’re likely to find a pack there when you go), and made thousands of shots.

Take advantage of the ability of Google Earth’s fly-over capabilities to look for different compositions. Check the landforms, angles, the way the light falls at certain times of the day, and how you can create different and interesting images.

When you find a spot, “drop a pin.” Note the GPS coordinates, and then you’ll be able to find that unique spot once you’re onsite.

If you ride a tour bus and get off at Vista Point, you can make this shot. It’s not bad, but it’s sure not unique. Thousands of tourists get essentially the same shot every day.

Let’s use an example.

If you go to San Francisco, you’re probably going to want to photograph the Golden Gate Bridge. If you ride a tourist bus and do what a jillion other people have done, they’ll stop at Vista Point on the north side of the bridge. Line up with a thousand other photographers (and even more “happy snappers”), and take the same basic shot everyone gets.

Yawn.

Instead, use Google Earth for cyber-scouting the location.

You might learn if you went to Marshall’s Beach over the southwest side of the bridge, you could get a much less-photographed vantage point. With some creativity, good light, and a dose of photographer’s luck, your shot won’t be like the one the folks on the tourist bus will take thousands of times each day.

Cyber-scouting for photo locations - Golden Gate Bridge from Marshalls Beach - Google Earth

Send up your “virtual drone” with Google Earth, “fly” around and you might spot this much more interesting and less photographed vantage point of the Golden Gate Bridge from Marshall’s Beach.

Back on the ground with the Peg Man

Another way for cyber-scouting photo locations is to make friends with the Google Maps “Peg Man.” That’s what some call the little character you can move to a spot and get a virtual POV (Point-of-View) look at the area, much as if you were really there.

Let’s head back to Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland.

Open Google Maps and search for the place (if you can spell it). If not, perhaps you saved the GPS coordinates – 70.4844397,-21.9701898?

Click on the map that appears in your browser to open Google Maps. Now look for the Peg Man, he’s that little guy at the bottom right of the screen.

Click on him.

If the streets on your map turn blue, you can then click, hold, drag, and drop him on a spot. You will be whisked away to a POV street view of the spot.

You can now “walk” the streets by clicking in the direction you want to go. Have a look around by clicking, holding, and dragging your mouse left and right. Roll the center mouse wheel to zoom in and out.

It’s almost like being there without having to wear a parka.

A virtual walk on the streets of Ittoqqortoormiit with Google Maps

Take a virtual walk on the streets of Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland by dropping the “Peg Man” in Google Maps. It seems kinda quiet, but then there are only about 450 people who live here in one of the most remote places on earth.

Maybe a more picturesque spot? Let’s go to the Eiffel Tower in Paris, France.

Type that into Google Maps. It’s bit more populated there, right?

Click the Peg Man over this map, and you will not only see the blue-colored streets, but you will also see blue “Photo Spheres.” Click on one of these, and you’ll have a 360-degree panorama where you can really get a look around.

Yeah, it’s a little more crowded than Ittoqqortoormiit, but as you can “tour” the entire city this way, maybe you can find a unique vantage point for a photo not currently done a million times.

Paris is a bit more populated than Ittoqqortoormiit. Enter Eiffel Tower in Google Maps and get this map. From here, drop the Peg Man to roam the streets or click a “Photo Sphere” to see a 360-degree panorama from that spot.

Cyber-scouting photo locations - A Pigeon in my panorama

There’s a pigeon in my panorama! Cyber-scouting photo locations could help you discover when and where to be for this shot. With a long exposure or some skill with the cloning tool, you could also vanish the people. Just watch out for pigeons.

When to be there

I mentioned the two essentials in planning for a great photo:

Knowing where to go, and
Knowing when to be there.

I’ve covered a few of the tools and techniques for cyber-scouting photo locations – the “where” part of that equation.

There are other tools that will help you know “when.”

Photographers know that great light and the specific spot are keys to making an image that goes above and beyond average. Some online tools and apps can help with that too.

Rather than get into all of those here, let me direct you to another DPS article by author Pete DeMarco, “6 of the Best Smartphone Apps for Travel and Landscape Photography.” In it he discusses:

PhotoPills
The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE)
Sun Surveyor
Tide Charts Near Me
Maps.me
Wunderground

About those GPS coordinates

You remember I said to note GPS coordinates? This is a great way to keep track of, map, and use GPS devices to get you to those spots once you are on location.

You may be able to import a .kmz file or can at least manually input your list of location GPS data into your portable dashtop GPS device. Bring it with you on your trip, and you’ll be set to navigate to all your spots.

These articles were written a few years ago, just before my epic New England trip. What proved most useful was transferring my GPS data into my Garmin Navigator dashtop GPS device.

I used transferred the .kmz file, but also learned that it was easy enough to type the GPS coordinates into the device and save them as locations.

I took the Garmin in my suitcase, set it up in the rental car once in Boston, clicked the location we wanted to go to, and bingo…off we went.

The beauty of the Garmin is it worked completely off the satellite, no internet connection required.

I was surprised how often we didn’t have internet availability, even in what seemed only “hills” by a westerners’ perspective.

The lesson learned – don’t count on your phone, tablet, or other internet-required devices for navigation. A stand-alone GPS navigation device (Garmin, Magellan, Tom Tom, etc.), which requires only a satellite connection, is a much more reliable option.

Analog backup

Cyber-scouting photo locations before your trip is a fun way to “see” and know-before-you-go the spots you’d like to photograph.

Electronic GPS devices can be a great way to get to the spots you’ve planned on visiting. But should it all go south, the connections don’t connect, and the power fails, an old-fashioned paper map and a compass is a good “Plan B” to have in your pack.

Just sayin’.

Of course, don’t overlook talking to the locals, or even better, local photographers who know the great spots. Also, hiring a guide can be well worth it, especially if you are in a foreign place.

For now, though, do some cyber-scouting, and get excited about your upcoming photo trip.

When you get back with some awesome images, post a few in the comments section below and tell us about your adventure.

Happy trails.

The post Tips for Cyber-Scouting Photo Locations So You Can Get the Best Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

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Apple’s 2020 iPhone photography contest seeks best Night mode shots

09 Jan

Shot on iPhone 11 Pro Max in Night mode by Eric Zhang.

Apple has announced another iPhone photography contest, this one soliciting photos shot using the company’s Night mode feature found on the iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro and iPhone 11 Pro Max. This new contest follows the first ‘Shot on iPhone’ competition announced by the company in January 2019. The new contest is open to submissions through January 29.

The 2020 iPhone Night mode photography contest opened to submissions on Wednesday, January 8; the five winning images will be announced by Apple on March 4.

Interested iPhone 11 owners can submit their favorite shots on Twitter and Instagram using the hashtags #NightmodeChallenge and #ShotoniPhone, as well as on China’s Weibo service using the tags #NightmodeChallenge# and #ShotoniPhone#.

Shot on iPhone 11 Pro in Night mode by Austin Mann.

Apple is also giving competitors the option of emailing a high-resolution version of their images to its shotoniphone@apple.com; in this case, photographers must use the following file naming convention: ‘firstname_lastname_nightmode_iPhonemodel.’

Social media submissions should include a note about which iPhone model was used to capture the image in the caption. Apple says contestants can use third-party and Photos app editing tools to edit the images. Submissions must be submitted by 11:59 PM PST on January 29 to be eligible. As well, contestants must be at least 18 years old.

The company has offered multiple tips on using the Night mode feature, including paying attention to the capture time displayed in the Night mode icon and using a tripod to keep the shots steady. Winning images will be showcased in a gallery on the Apple website, Apple Newsroom and Apple Instagram account; they may also appear in Apple’s digital campaigns, among other promotions.

The full list of judges and other details can be found in Apple’s announcement.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

06 Dec

The post 7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

When it comes to photographing children at portrait sessions, most often it’s not the gear that gets them to enjoy the session or has them laughing. In this article, we are going to share the best tools for photographing children that are not gear related and useful for every portrait session with children.

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

1. The squeaky chicken (rr any noisy toy)

When it comes to tools for photographing children, there is nothing more fun than a toy that makes noise. A weird, interesting, noisy, and curious squeaking chicken is all of those things and more. They come in various sizes and offer lots of ideas for getting the attention of smaller children and laughs from older children.

Tools-for-Photographing-Children-that-are-not-Gear-Related

This is the chicken that I have. When squeezed, it makes a sound that is able to capture anyone’s attention. As you can see it gets used quite a bit.

Use the toy as a way to get the child’s attention toward the camera. A great tip is to bang your head with it and pretend that it hurt in a fun and interesting way. Children love unexpected reactions, and you’ll definitely get big smiles using the chicken.

You can also play hide and seek with the chicken popping it from behind you in a different direction each time. The child won’t know where it’ll pop up from next! A huge hit!

These laughs are brought to you by the chicken hitting me on the head. Camera is on a tripod to avoid shaking.

When the children are a bit older, you can plop the chicken, or any other noisy toy, on your camera and ask “Hey, where did my chicken go? Have you seen it?” This can get a great reaction out of the child and also keep their attention as a fun way to look at the camera long enough to shoot off a few frames.

2. Bribes

This one is a staple for all children at portrait sessions, but first, make sure you consult with the parents before the session to know if bribery is okay.

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

Ask your clients if you should bring candy or if they can bring a favorite treat for the child when its time for the session. Only use in emergencies since children can lose interest if they have to continuously work for it.

A small lollipop or chewable candy works wonders when you need them to smile. You can bribe them with a taste or piece. Make sure to work quickly, though, because they’ll want that bribe instantly!

Here we used two different games with the parents. The swing game while they walked and the tickling game. Smiles all around!

3. Play games

Games are probably not going to get you many of those photos where the children are looking at the camera, however, they will bring about some smiles and great photos of the family interacting. Luckily, you don’t need much for this other than some interesting games for all ages!

One that works great with children is to pick them up, especially for the younger age group. Have mommy and daddy tickle them too.

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

Another one is to ask the family to look at each other and make some silly faces! Children love to make silly faces. You can ask them to do one with silly faces and then one where they smile big at the camera!

Chase is a great game, just make sure you focus fast and can capture the motion! Children are pretty quick and mommy and daddy will also get a kick out of chasing their little one around while getting big laughs!

Peek-A-Boo is a great game to play with smaller children under the age of 3! They know it so well from playing with their parents that when you do, it will seem familiar. They might even want to play along! Play peek-a-boo from behind your camera or use a toy to hide and pop out. Both work really well to grab the attention of the child.

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

A game that gets the biggest laughs is also when you get close and tickle them and then back away quickly. Only, the next time you go in to tickle you don’t actually tickle. It’s good to say “I’m gonna get you” as you play this game so they anticipate the game!

This trick works best when you have an assistant so that you don’t miss any shots. If you have to do this yourself, try and put your camera on a tripod with a wireless shutter release so you get the smiles even if you’re not at your camera. That works wonders! If the parents don’t want contact, have one of them play the game with their child and it can also work to get lots of laughs!

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

Also, children are great at making up games. So when they start to play, have everyone play along and then ask them to smile or look your way! Sometimes you’ll get the child looking at you and other times you will get great interaction among the family members. Both make great additions to the final gallery of images!

Children are great at playing games, let them have fun and they’ll look at the camera soon enough.

4. Children’s playlist

When it comes to tools for photographing children, consider music. Children love music. So it would be a good idea to have a playlist on your phone of all the classic favorites like Wheels on the Bus, The Ants Go Marching In, Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, and others.

Also, ask your clients what the child likes to listen to as far as music goes and create a specific playlist for that session.

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

A good plus would be to have a small external speaker so you can have it on location. That way, you don’t really have to move or hold onto your phone for the songs to hear the songs. External speakers also sound a lot louder than just your phone, which can grab the attention of the child.

5. Mommy and Daddy

One of the best tools for photographing children is Mom and Dad! Using mom and dad as a way to get the attention of the child can help because the children can recognize their voice and identify them quickly, even when they are very young!

Have the parent stand behind you or at least very close to the camera. That way, when the child looks at them, it’ll seem like they were looking at the camera.

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

It’s also fun to play games while the parent is close to you and have them bonk your head or act like daddy farted. That one works best when the children are around 4 years old and usually gets a laugh out of them.

Getting the parents involved in the fun makes the child feel more comfortable around you, who is new to them or maybe not so familiar. Have the parents toss the child up into the air or just raise them up high and smile.

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

They can also go exploring, dig in the sand, and walk hand-in-hand with the parents if they’re willing to participate! It will get a lot more laughs and more authentic expressions from the child.

This tool works great, especially when the child isn’t cooperating, or it’s difficult to get their attention. The parents know their child best and can help get those smiles, and they’ll be glad to help!

6. Using the Uh-Oh method

When a child is small, typically around 3 years and under, the sound of “uh-oh” can get their attention much more than a solid “no”.

Tools-for-Photographing-Children-that-are-not-Gear-Related

Using “uh-oh” can be a great way to get a child’s attention and stop them from doing something that is not allowing them to look at the camera or follow instructions. Of course, they’re young, and sometimes won’t follow instructions at all, so using “uh-oh” can divert them much better.

7. Props

Props work for various reasons as they can help with the session set up and overall look. However, when it comes to children, props help keep children engaged and, most often, in one spot.

Tools-for-Photographing-Children-that-are-not-Gear-Related

Speak with your clients and see what props will work best for the age of their child(ren). For little ones perhaps cars, blocks, and plush toys work. For a bit older children, perhaps a kite, picnic set up, or game works best.

Look for items that add to the session rather than take attention away from your clients. Choose toys or props that are neutral in color or go with the color scheme.

Tools-for-Photographing-Children-that-are-not-Gear-Related

In conclusion

7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime!

While your gear is important during portrait sessions, especially with children, adding in games, toys, and noisemakers to your set of skills and gear can really change the way they experience the session. Your clients will thank you for providing a fun experience for everyone, all while capturing great images of their children!

Do you have any other tools for photographing children that are not gear related? Share with us in the comments!

The post 7 Tools for Photographing Children That Will Get You Great Shots Everytime! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

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4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

24 Oct

The post 4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

4-creative-shots-ideas-shooting-in-one-place

This year, as has been the case in the past few years, as a family, we take a few days in the summer to go camping. I’m not going to lie; I find camping really tough. I don’t like the inconveniences camping requires but I do love the campfires and stargazing. This year has been particularly difficult as we went during a heatwave. The heat was relentless, and during the day we couldn’t even stay in our tents. We had to seek shelter in the forest for hours when not going on a long walk.

This article came to me on one of those mornings finding respite from the heat in the forest. My kids were drawing, sitting on the swings, hacking a path through some bushes, and I sat on a picnic blanket with my camera. I gave myself the maximum space of the mat to move around in, approximately 1.5m square. All I had with me was my Nikon D610 and a 60mm micro prime lens, so I gave myself a challenge. What can I photograph creatively whilst glued to this picnic mat?

4 ideas to get more creative shots when restricted in space and position

1. Direction and perspective

To get more creative shots, look at different perspectives. Here I lay down and looked upwards at the branches and leaves above me against the sky.

4-ideas-for-more-creative-shots-shooting-in-one-place

I tried to find more interesting compositions given the limited subject matter. Also, I tried to find layers of branches to achieve some bokeh and depth of field and focused on the nearest branches above me.

4-creative-shots-ideas-shooting-in-one-place

I moved around the mat while still on my back, and took shots with the tree trunks as leading lines reaching up to the sky for interest whilst still looking upwards as pictured above. Then I looked down and took some close up of twigs on the forest floor as pictured on the right below.

4-ideas-for-more-creative-shots-shooting-in-one-place

Look both directions: left and right.

To my left was this tree (pictured above left). I used the forest floor to create foreground interest, some greenery as the middle ground (which was focused), and the big tree in the distance as the background. To my left was a big tree trunk covered in moss and knots, both of which I found an interesting subject to take close-ups of.

4-ideas-for-more-creative-shots-shooting-in-one-place

This is what I love about this micro/macro lens. When you shoot close up, even at small apertures, you still get really pretty bokeh. So, I leveraged this and used the distant leaves and the sky to achieve bokeh behind the mossy trunk.

4-creative-shots-ideas-shooting-in-one-place

2. Distance

For more creative shots, take your gaze further and see what’s on the horizon. Below is the furthest view I could see.

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

To the left of this tree trunk is the tall spindly white tree that dominated my distant scenery. I thought this was a rather unusual tree and made for a good, strong subject. It stood out from the lush greenery as if constantly growing its way into the sky.

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

Also, don’t forget to check what’s right in front of you – especially anything that could be close-up material too. Below-right is a cut off tree shot at normal eye-view distance. I put a little leaf on top, so I had some close-up material to play with.

4-ideas-for-more-creative-shots-shooting-in-one-place

This trunk below was too far for me to reach or do a close-up of so this was my “midway” subject to photograph. Again, I used the foreground and background to create some interesting bokeh.

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

3. Create a new subject matter

Whilst it’s good to use our observational skills to find interesting things to photograph, we mustn’t solely rely on what’s already there! Get creative and think of unusual out-of-the-box ideas you can put together as your subject matter.

Here I happened to see heart-shaped leaf just outside the blanket I was sitting on, so I created a ring of seeds around it. I liked the way the colored leaf pops out of the brown earth.

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

Our picnic was laid out on the blanket and wondered what I could do with an empty water bottle. I photographed it looking through the hole at the top into the bottom of the bottle.

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

4. Experiment with effects

We had some plastic from our picnic stash and I used it to create a soft-focus effect on this landscape shot of the tree. I achieved this by wrapping the plastic around my lens, so it covered a little bit of the lens around the edges. Doing so, rendered those areas soft whilst the rest of the tree is still in focus.

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

I played around with how much or how little of the plastic I wanted to obscure the image. This one below had more soft-focus leaving only the strip of horizon sharp and clear.

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

I tried recreating a tilt-shift effect.

Tilt-shift lenses are called so because you can rotate, tilt and shift the lens optics in order to blur parts of the image whilst leaving other parts sharp if you wish. This is a neat trick when trying to photograph miniatures. I asked my daughter to create a little miniature teepee for me. These are my attempts whilst shifting the positional angles of my lens as I was still using the 60mm micro and not a tilt-shift lens.

4-ideas-for-more-creative-shots-shooting-in-one-place

This was a fun little challenge for me and got me out of boredom and into thinking creatively! I hope you enjoyed this and will try it sometime!

If you have any other ideas for more creative shots, share them in the comments below!

4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position

The post 4 Ideas for More Creative Shots when Photographing from One Position appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

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LumaPod is an ultra-compact tripod that uses tension to keep your shots steady

13 Sep

Tripods are one of the few pieces of camera equipment that haven’t seen a lot of innovation over the years. LumaPod is hoping to change that though, with its all new tripod that’s currently available to back on Kickstarter.

Deemed the ‘world’s fastest tripod,’ the LumaPod is a compact tripod that uses patented tension technology to stabilize your shots without weighing a ton. It comes in two models — the Go85 and Go120 — for varying camera sizes and can also be used as a monopod and selfie stick.

Unlike traditional tripods, which rely on three legs attached to a centralized column and mounting point, the LumaPod is essentially two tripods in one that folds down into a single tube that looks something like the handle of a lightsaber. The base of the LumaPod is similar to a standard tripod in that it uses three rigid aluminum legs to keep the thing upright and steady. These low-profile legs serve as the attachment point for a telescoping column and three kevlar cables that hold the central column in place using tension.

The Go85 LumaPod weighs just 400g/0.88lbs, measures in at 85cm/33.5in and can hold 1kg/2.2lbs of camera equipment. The larger Go120 weighs 690g/1.65lbs, measures in at 120cm/47.3in when closed, and can hold 2kg/4.4lbs of camera equipment.

The Go85 includes a collection of accessories designed to make the most of shooting with smartphones and GoPro cameras, while the Go120 includes a compact Z-plate for more versatile mounting of mirrorless and DSLR cameras. Other accessories are available as add-ons through the Kickstarter. These include a Bluetooth remote, quick release plate, travel sling, compact ball head, and more.

The lower legs of both LumaPods are modular and adaptable to fit your shooting needs. They can be hot swapped with rubber feet, terrain levelers, dolly wheels, and other accessories by simply swapping them out. LumaPod claims it takes just four seconds to set up the tripod.

It remains to be seen just how stable this setup is, but it’s an interesting design that may very well work for smaller camera setups.

The Go85 starts for a pledge of €69 (approximately $ 80), while the Go120 starts at €85 (approximately $ 99). Both models are expected to ship in May 2019. To find out more and secure your pledge, head on over to the Kickstarter campaign.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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5 Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography

26 Jul

A favorite subject for many street photographers is the market. It’s no surprise either, as these places have a lot of life going on, and therefore many good photography opportunities. The best way to get the most out of your street market photography is to get organized.

That means going in with a plan, which for photographers means a list of photographs you intend to take. So in this article, you’ll get an idea of what those photos should be, read on to find out.

#1 – An overall scene-setting shot

Five Essential Street Market Photos You Need to GetFive Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography

A scene-setting photo that shows the scale of the market will often need to be taken from a high vantage point.

This is the photo that tells the viewer about the scale of the market. It’s the entry point for the viewer into all the other photos that will go into this set. There will be different approaches to achieving this photo, and depending on the location of the market some options might not be available to you.

Bird’s eye view – To get this photo you’ll need to find a high vantage point of some description. The aim is to capture the whole market or as much of it as possible in one shot. You essentially want to show the size of this market before you present the more human photos. Your lens choice will depend on how far away from the market your vantage point is located. Typically you’ll want to use a wide-angle lens for this, although photographing from a distance means a longer focal length is always possible. A third possibility these days is using a drone (check the laws in your area first!), with this available you’ll not need to spend the time looking for a vantage point.
Wide-angle – Assuming you’re not able to utilize a bird’s eye view, the next option is a wide angle photo from street level. You won’t capture the whole market, but a sense of scale is still possible. These type of photos will work best with an indoor location where you can capture interior architecture.
The tunnel – Finally many markets will have market stalls along a road that seem to go off into infinity. The best method to capture this is to use a longer focal length lens to compress the scene. If the market stalls are on both sides of the road this may well give the effect of a tunnel.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - market near train tracks

Elements in the photo that give context to the scene are a good idea. Here you can see this is a railway market.

#2 – A staged portrait

Photographing strangers is a big part of market photography. In order to get a good photo of market vendors, there are several steps which you’ll need to take as a photographer.

Gaining permission – As this photo is staged, you’ll first need to ask the person for their permission. In some cases, this will be a simple request, which is either accepted or refused. In order to increase your chances of getting a “yes”, buying something from a street vendor will help, you may even offer to pay cash just for the photo. Are you in a location where you don’t speak the local language? Learning the simple expression, “May I take your photo please?” is a great idea, and failing that body language can be surprisingly effective.
Taking the photo – As you’ve gained permission for this photo, you’ll likely be standing close to your subject. The best lens for this is a prime lens that’s good for portraits such as the 50mm. It’s preferable that you spend time to build rapport with your subject before taking the photo, this will give you a more natural looking photo. Then take care of the usual things like a nice clean background, and light coming from the right direction to light up the person’s face.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - vendor selling fruit in large baskets

Gaining permission to take the photo allows you to control the scene a bit more.

#3 – A candid portrait

Candid street market photos will likely make up the majority of your photos of the market. Getting good photos here will require quick wits, and an ability to blend in.

The decisive moment – Capturing the decisive moment can make or break your photo. To increase your chance of getting this moment you need to position yourself in the right place. Look for spots where there are many human interactions, and anticipate the right moment. So this might be a customer interacting with a vendor, or perhaps a street hawker cooking some food.
Hip photography – One way to be more conspicuous with your photography, and get natural looking photos is to experiment with hip photography. If your camera is not at your eye most people will assume you’re not taking a photo of them. So if your camera is at your hip instead you can get close to your subject, and take the photo from the hip secretly, without drawing attention to yourself. To get this technique right takes a bit of practice. Focus your camera to a set distance before taking the photo, and keep the camera in manual focus to prevent it from refocusing. Use a small aperture of f/16 or smaller, so you have a large depth of field.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - man selling fish at a market on the train tracks

This photo is a candid, the rail lines frame the vendor nicely.

#4 – Detail photos

The produce you’ll find at the market can make for some excellent detail photos to go in your street market photography selection. In theory, these photos should be the easiest to come by. Because it’s still life photography you won’t need to get permission from a person to take the photo. However, you are taking photos of someone’s stock, so ask permission to take the photo first.

Repeating patterns – Items like fish or fruit make great subjects for repeating patterns. Often the vendor will have these lined up in an aesthetically pleasing manner, so as a photographer you just need to concentrate on good framing.
Contrast – Look for color contrast, perhaps between fruits of differing color, or table backgrounds against produce. Colorful images will look good in your street market photography collection.
Change the angle – The majority of detail photos are taken from the top down. Changing the angle can still give you an interesting detail photo though, but with more depth to it. If you use a low enough angle you may even get some bokeh background in your frame.

apples in baskets next to train tracks - Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography

This is a detail photo, but once again context is inferred with the train track.

#5 – Something more creative

Finally, it’s always good to introduce a little creativity to your street market photography. These are the type of photos you’ll want to go for once you’ve bagged the other photos in this list.

There are many ways you can be creative with your market photography, below are a few ideas.

Low key – Markets are great places to find shards of light, a gap in the roofing perhaps that lets the sunlight through? You can use that light to create a low key portrait. Simply expose for the sunlit area, and underexpose the background. You will likely be exposing at -2EV or -3EV to create a photo like this. Wait for your subjects face to be lit up by the sun, and take your photo.
Blur – The use of blur can create a dynamic edge to your photo. Whether you attempt a panning photo, or put your camera on a tripod and expose for around 1/3 of a second to capture the motion of people moving about the market is for you to decide.
Crystal ball – A versatile object that can be applied to many different genres of photography. If you’re looking for a photo with a fish-eye like feeling but compressed into the ball, then this is a great option.

Five Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography - low key portrait of a lady

Creating a low key photo is one option for more creative street market photography.

Now it’s time for you to do some market photography!

So do you enjoy street market photography? What’s your favorite type of photo to take while you’re in the hustle and bustle of a market?

What time of the day do you typically photograph markets? Do you like to go at the crack of dawn to see all the life at a fish market? Or do you go for the low light magic of a night market?

What tips do you have for getting the best results from this genre of street photography? As always please share your photos and ideas in the comments section of this article.

street market photography - vendors selling goods on train tracks

In this photo, the motion blur of a moving train can be seen behind the market vendors.

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