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Posts Tagged ‘Scenarios’

6 Scenarios to Try for More Interesting Beach Photography

12 Aug

The post 6 Scenarios to Try for More Interesting Beach Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Coastal adventures are a spectacular way to explore with your camera and to soak in the sea views and fresh sea air. There are so many amazing beaches and miles upon miles of coastline around the world or closer to home to entice photographers to the sea. Beautiful seascapes can vary from wide open clifftop vistas to picturesque harbors, tranquil ocean views, secluded coves, and even fishing villages. Here are 6 scenarios to try for more interesting beach photography:

1. Monumental views

Coastal adventures 01

Sailing boat at sea

Firstly, take in the bigger picture when capturing your seascapes.

Seek out and find those great sweeping ocean views that cover a wide expanse of sea. Be sure to use a wide-angle lens to photograph the scene too. By photographing the sea and sky, you can add another element to the scene to improve your photos.

An interesting sky also adds texture and atmosphere to the sea view and creates interesting beach photography.

2. Interesting patterns

Coastal adventures 02

Cornwall, England

During your adventures at the coast, look for interesting patterns and textures to photograph. You will find many details such as shells, patterns in the sand, and interesting rocks. Rockpools can be great subjects to focus your camera on to make dramatic beach photos.

Consider how your image may be affected by the tide and decide what you most want to achieve with the look of your photos. Shooting at high tide or low tide can alter the appearance of your image. At high tide, for example, some attractive rocks may look even better with the swell of the ocean circling them as opposed to when the tide is out, and the rocks separate from the sea. Try to time your visit to coincide with your photo objective. Alternatively, visit a location and plan a return visit when the tide levels are suitable.

3. Secluded coves

6-scenarios-to-try-for-more-interesting-beach-photography

Cornwall, England

Finding and photographing a secluded cove is a great way to spend your adventures capturing coastal scenes.

When photographing these wonderful locations, find a suitable vantage point from higher up, such as on a ledge or from beach level. Take care when photographing the sea and be careful when standing near cliff edges or moving over slippery rocks – they can be treacherous.

Another thing to be aware of is the tide times, which are very important for your own safety. If you can coincide your visit when the tides are receding this is usually a favorable time to prevent being trapped by the incoming seas or being caught out by a rogue wave.

4. Find hidden gems

6-scenarios-to-try-for-more-interesting-beach-photography

Cornwall, England

Think beyond the familiar landmarks when photographing the coast. There are endless opportunities and locations for you to discover.

One of the best ways to find new places is to explore the coast on foot. Instead of heading for the nearest beach, venture out for a long walk along the coastal paths. You never know what you might see. Behind every turn and headland, there are often hidden gems to discover. These may include secret beaches that have seen few visitors. Perhaps you will find sea caves lying beneath the clifftops which have been formed by the sea eroding the land over time.

5. Coastal shores

6-scenarios-to-try-for-more-interesting-beach-photography

Cornwall, England

Coastal shores can offer some of the most dramatic and best photo opportunities for seascapes. Crashing waves and moody skies after a storm can be great for your coastal photos.

How you capture your coastal adventures depends on the type of image and mood you want to evoke.

The coast can look very different throughout the day. You could either go there in the late afternoon to capture the suns rays striking the cliffs or visit during the day when the beach is busier and more active with people.

Visiting at different times of the day will give you the chance to capture a wide variety of shots to include in your collection.

6. Sunsets

6-scenarios-to-try-for-more-interesting-beach-photography

Land’s End, Cornwall, England

Photographing Sunsets by the sea are one of the most popular things to capture – and for a good reason. The coastline often looks its best at this time of day when the colorful glow is spectacular. Views of the sea get transformed into wonderful vistas with great light. Sand dunes and rock ledges can look great with the sunset light shining on them.

Shooting into the sun is another great way to capture the sunset during your coastal adventures.

Conclusion

Use these tips to capture more interesting beach photography and seascape images. Next time you are visiting the coast remember to look out for great ocean views, interesting details, secluded coves, hidden beaches, coastal vistas, and dramatic sunsets and share your images with us below.

What do you enjoy about beach photography?

 

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The post 6 Scenarios to Try for More Interesting Beach Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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Real-World Scenarios and Solutions to Deal with Too Much Light in Photography

11 Jul

The post Real-World Scenarios and Solutions to Deal with Too Much Light in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Erin Fitzgibbon.

Natural light is beautiful light

If you’re a lover of natural light when creating photographs, then you’re like me – you love light. You love how it streams in windows and how it creates shadows. There’s so much wonder in the way light naturally falls into place. In many situations, it’s amazing to let nature take its course and create a beautiful view.

The reality is, however, while we can always go with the flow, sometimes Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate with the requirements of human life. There are times when Mother Nature gives you way too much light.

So the question becomes, “How do I deal with all this light?”

Let’s look at some real-world scenarios and discuss solutions to deal with too much light in photography.

Scenario #1: Intense light streaming through a window

As someone who often shoots interior design photographs for a magazine, I run into this situation all the time. I arrive at a house to find big beautiful windows casting a lovely soft light on a part of the room and a bright glare in areas close to the window. We usually use HDR to solve this issue. There are times, however, when you can’t set up a tripod as space does not allow this kind of luxury.

In the situation below, the restaurant had amazing, huge windows. It allowed much light into the room – great for those who were dining. The situation was not-so-great for photographing clear, detailed images. If you take a look at the photograph below, shot during a family event, you can see how bright windows can affect your images in a more personal situation.

dealing with too much light in photography - shows shadows

The big windows behind the display are somewhat blown out, but not horribly so. The problem is the light on the cake and other items are very dull.

In this scenario, the bright light from the big windows behind the display detracts from the cake and the sign. The sign is in shadow if you expose the photograph to reduce the brightness of the background. If you expose for the sign, then the light behind becomes very distracting and detracts from the look of the photograph.

dealing with too much light in photography - overexposure

Using a different combination of settings and the light on the cake and sign is much better, but this image still is not great.

The final composition

In this case, the solution was to use the items being photographed to block out some of the light from behind. I changed the angle from which I was shooting and tried to fill the frame with the items from the display table.  Now the photograph is exposed correctly, and have a more attractive memory of a family occasion.

dealing with too much light in photography - composition

I changed the angle to block out the brighter lights outside, creating an even lighting situation. If I post-processed this image, it will do quite nicely to document the day.

Scenario #2: Bright afternoon sunshine and you can’t move people into the shade

At family outings or special occasions, it can be difficult to get people to move. You have to deal with the shadows and squinting that the intense summer sun creates. And what if you don’t have a flash?

Last summer, I shot photographs and wrote an article about building birch bark canoes using traditional Indigenous methods. There’s no way I could ask the Elder working on the canoe to move his whole operation into a place to allow me to take nicer photographs of him. He was working, and he was not going to move everything for me.

Adapting to a situation is important

As you can see in the photograph below, the sun was quite bright, and I didn’t have a flash. He was wearing a white shirt, and his skin is darker, so there’s a challenge when exposing for this type of dynamic range. The color photograph is relatively flat. It doesn’t have the type of depth, or look I like to have for my images.

From an art standpoint, this image would never work. From a journalist standpoint, they are less picky about these types of issues, but there had to be a balance.  The editor of the article, however, did agree that the bright light did take away from the photograph. Our solution was to post-process using black and white. The advantage of black and white is it allows you to hide washed-out colors and lessens the effect of blown-out whites. It is an option to consider when working in such harsh lighting conditions.

dealing with too much light in photography

Here is the unedited photograph. I did my best to balance the exposure for bright light and harsh shadows.

 

dealing with too much light in photography - to show extreme light

In black and white, I could control the image a little more and process it to show items like the strength in the Elder’s arms.

Scenario #3: Intense spots of light

In some situations, the light is just right in parts of a scene, but in others, it’s just too bright. It creates glares and reflections you don’t want in your photographs.

In this situation, you could once again use HDR. There are some other options to consider, as well. Consider using a flash to fill in shadows created when you balance out the lighting. In the situation below a flash and a diffuser were used to create more even lighting. The hanging lights are still bright, but unfortunately, there was nothing that could be done about those. The only way to minimize their distraction was to have the woman active. The viewer will notice that the woman is pouring the wine, and it helps to keep them focused on something other than the bright lights in the scene.

In some cases, you may have to accept defeat when it comes to light. However, you can take steps to minimize the influence the lights can have on your photograph.

dealing with too much light in photography - using a flash for lighting

By adding a flash I was able to reduce the shadows on her face.

Conclusion

Light is both a blessing and a challenge when your taking photographs. Sometimes you will have to think quickly. You will need to find ways to problem solve and manage the lighting effectively. There are lots of ways to create photographs, even in the most difficult situations, so try to think carefully about the scene before you. Try to be creative when managing challenging situations.

Please, by all means, share your toughest lighting situations and how you were able to deal with too much light in photography in the comments below.

 

dealing with too much light in photography

The post Real-World Scenarios and Solutions to Deal with Too Much Light in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Erin Fitzgibbon.


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5 Scenarios Where You Should Use Luminosity Masks

21 Jun

The post 5 Scenarios Where You Should Use Luminosity Masks appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christian Hoiberg.

The world of post-processing is a big world with endless possibilities. Every photographer applies photo editing tools in their own way, and we all have different purposes of what we want to convey through our photography. For me, post-processing is a way to overcome certain limitations found within the camera and to better represent what I experienced in the field. For this purpose, I use both Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop.

I used Luminosity Masks to selectively process this image

While I do most of the work in Lightroom, there are several techniques I apply that can only be done in Photoshop. Some of these techniques are quite popular, while other techniques are the result of spending too many hours playing around and trying various things. The one thing I often notice when viewing images from aspiring photographers, or when talking post-processing with my workshop clients, is that every effect is applied globally. I believe that is a BIG mistake.

Certain effects should only be applied to specific parts of an image. That’s where Layers and Masks in Photoshop come in handy. However, I like to make my selections more accurate than just painting with a black/white brush on a Layer Mask, which is why Luminosity Masks have become an important part of my workflow. I’m not going to get into what they are and how to create them in this article. If you don’t know how to create them, I suggest you read this article first so that what I discuss in this article makes sense to you. I will be covering 5 scenarios where you should use Luminosity Masks.

1. Use Luminosity Masks to apply contrast

Let’s step out of Photoshop and into the Lightroom RAW editor for a moment to take a look at what happens when you increase the contrast slider:

Pulling Lightroom’s Contrast slider to the right brightens the brights and darken the darks, without taking into consideration how dark the darks are and how bright the brights are. That will quite often result in shadows becoming pure black and the brightest highlights becoming pure white. Yes, you can avoid this by adjusting the slider more gently or playing with the Highlights/Shadows sliders (which I often do in addition). However, there’s another way that’s even better: apply contrast using a Luminosity Mask.

I’ve already applied contrast and made basic raw adjustments when opening this file in Photoshop. So when I now keep working with the contrast, I don’t want to affect the brightest highlights or the darkest shadows. That means that I only want to apply contrast to the midtones. This is easily achieved in Photoshop by creating a Midtones Luminosity Mask (I often go for Midtones 2, but make sure to create the other masks as well) and applying it to the Curves Layer Mask (you can also use a Levels or Contrast Adjustment Layer):

The Midtones 2 Luminosity Mask applied to the Curves Layer Mask

Looking at the mask above, we can see that we’re not affecting the darker parts of the image when adjusting the contrast. The effect will also be less visible in the brightest parts. If you’re not quite sure what you’re looking at above, remember this phrase when talking about Layer Masks: White Reveals, Black Conceals.

2. Selectively work on color balance

The second adjustment that should be done through a Luminosity Mask is Color Balance. Globally working with color will often result in strong color casts.

Let’s say that you want to cool down the shadows of an image by using a Color Balance Adjustment Layer. The common method would be to set the color balance tone to Shadows and pull the cyan slider to the left and the blue slider to the right, such as this:

Doing this simple adjustment has given a nice cold color cast to the shadows but, unfortunately, it’s affected more than just the darker parts of the image. Also, less dark areas (areas which are not considered bright), have been affected more than I wanted. Even the highlights seem slightly faded.

If I make this exact same adjustment through a Darks 3 Luminosity Mask, the result is quite different:

Notice that the colder color cast has been applied to the darkest parts of the image, which is what I initially aimed for. The midtones and highlights are entirely left alone and remain the same as they did before applying the adjustment.

3. Darken a bright sky with Luminosity Masks

Another good use of Luminosity Masks is to darken a too bright sky (in this scenario, it’s important that there’s still information to be pulled out of the bright parts). A quick look at the RAW file below shows us that the left side sky is slightly too bright. I still want it to be brighter than the right since the sun sits just left of the frame. However, I want to get some of the details back from the overly bright areas.

Using a Curves Layer Adjustment without a mask will affect other parts of the image too. So, again, let’s do it through a Luminosity Mask. The Brights 4 mask seemed best for this particular image:

Remember, only the white parts of the mask will be affected by the adjustment. As you see above, that means that the majority of the image won’t be affected whatsoever.

With the Brights 4 Luminosity Mask selected, create a Curves Adjustment Layer and darken by pulling the middle part of the line downwards. We’ve now successfully darkened the bright sky:

4. Blend multiple images using Luminosity Masks

Digital cameras have had a great boost in improvement in a short time, but there’s still one thing that they struggle to do: capture the full dynamic range when working with bright skies and dark foregrounds. This certainly is something camera manufacturers are working on. I’m blown away by how far its come, but it’s still not good enough for many of the scenarios landscape photographers work in.

The workaround is to capture multiple exposures of the same frame with different shutter speeds. Typically, you capture one dark, one base, and one bright image. You then blend these images in post-processing where both the foreground and sky is correctly exposed.

There are a million ways to do this, but one of the most accurate is to use Luminosity Masks in Photoshop. It might sound advanced, but let me show you just how easy it is.

Let’s say we want to blend these two images to get back the lost information in the blown out sky. (To keep this simple, I only blend two exposures here. But, I strongly recommend the 3rd exposure as well to use in the brightest part):

I prefer to have the bright layer on the top and paint in the darker exposure, but either way is perfectly fine. If you prefer having the dark exposure on the top, just do the opposite of what I explain in the next few steps.

Here’s how you easily blend the images using Luminosity Masks:

  1. Place the bright exposure on the top
  2. Align the layers to avoid ghosting (select both layers and go to Edit -> Auto-Align Layers)
  3. Add a white Layer Mask to the top layer
  4. Create a Brights Luminosity Mask (the exact mask depends on the image. I used Brights 3 for this example)
  5. Use a black brush at 0% hardness and 50% opacity and brush repeatedly on the areas where you want to reveal the darker exposure. Repeat until you’ve got a smooth blend.

That’s it! Not to hard right? In a matter of minutes I was able to blend the two images above into this:

As mentioned, this image still needs one darker exposure to be painted back into the brightest area close to the suns’ position. This is quite easy, and all you need to do is have another darker layer at the bottom and use a more restricted Brights mask on the middle layer to reveal it.

5. To apply Glow Effects

The final adjustment I strongly recommend doing selectively rather than globally is any glow effect. There’s no need to add a strong Orton Effect to the shadows of a picture, right?

There are two “guidelines” that I follow when creating a glow effect:

  1. Never apply it to the closest foreground (keep the foreground sharp)
  2. Avoid adding too much to the shadows

Since there might be highlights in the foreground, I’m going to combine a Luminosity Mask and free painting on the mask in this scenario. Again, this is quite easy and you can achieve it by following a few quick steps:

  1. Create a glow effect on a new layer
  2. Create a wide Brights mask and apply it onto the layer
  3. Grab a soft black brush at a medium opacity and remove the adjustment from the immediate foreground by painting directly onto the layer mask

By following these simple steps we have added a nice soft glow to the highlights of the image.

The point of adding a glow effect, in my opinion, is not to make the entire image look soft and hazy but to add a little extra depth and atmosphere. I have achieved this by selectively applying it.

What next?

These are just a few adjustments that I recommend applying through a Luminosity Mask. They have become an essential part of my processing workflow during the past several years. I use them in one or another way for the majority of my images. Sometimes I apply to sharpen through them, other times contrast. There really are endless opportunities.

 

5-scenarios-where-you-should-use-luminosity-masks

The post 5 Scenarios Where You Should Use Luminosity Masks appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christian Hoiberg.


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How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits [video]

12 Jan

The post How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this week’s video from COOPH Master Chrissie White, you’ll learn how to use five lighting scenarios to create expert studio portraits.

Here are the 5 tips:

1. Natural Light and Reflector

Place your model next to window and place reflector on the opposite side of the face to create balanced light. For even light, shoot when the light isn’t coming directly through the window.

2. Side lighting

Side lighting creates a moody atmosphere for your image.

Place one light on to one side of the model and black card on the opposite side. This casts a shadow on one side of your models face so the light is split down the middle. if you don’t want it too moody, place a white card on the opposite side instead. That way the models face won’t be in complete shadow.

3. Butterfly lighting

Butterfly Lighting is commonly used for beauty lighting. It is an even light on the model. Place the light in front of the model and above them. You can also use a reflector underneath their face to even out the light.

4. Split lighting

This lighting is dramatic and flashy. Great for shooting athletes and fashion models. Place 2 lights approx 45 degrees behind the model. To soften and make less dramatic, add a butterfly light to the front of the model.

5. Backlighting

Place your light source behind the model to create a hair or rim light. Place another light in front of model or a white card to add some fill to remove the shadow from the face.

Add colored gels to the light to add color and drama. Use cellophane or gels. Be careful of hot lights though.

TIP: Look in the eyes of models for ‘catch-lights’ to see what type of lighting a photographer used.

 

You may also find these articles helpful:

One Speedlight Portrait Lighting Tutorial

6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Evey Photographer Should Know

10 Ways to take Stunning Portraits

How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits

Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash

How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut

 

 

The post How to Use 5 Different Lighting Scenarios to Create Expert Studio Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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How to Overcome Difficult Lighting Scenarios at Weddings

21 Apr

A wedding photographer has to be prepared for pretty much anything. Big belly laughs, impromptu outbursts of song and bear hugs can happen at any moment. Not to mention that the light is constantly changing and you’ve got yourself a schedule to keep. Let’s just say weddings keep you on your toes.

That’s why it’s always worth planning ahead and being prepared. Weddings rarely take place in just one location and moving from indoors to outside, or from sunshine to shade can cause a huge change in exposure. When not competing with the sun, indoor lighting poses new problems. Tungsten bulbs mixed with daylight causes all sorts of white balance issues. But this is why we love weddings, they keep us sharp.

Being prepared and practice is key to achieving consistent results. Here are three top tips on how to make the most of difficult lighting situations.

Couple portraits – How to find good light on a dull day

Believe it or not, it is raining at the point of capture in the image below. This photograph was taken in July in Surrey, UK. The British weather was doing all it could to play up to the stereotype it would seem.

Couple portrait weddings

Not every wedding takes place on a gorgeous sunny day and it’s not always feasible to shoot at sunset to capture the golden hour of light. What can you do to create images that your clients will love and to which you’re proud to put your name? Especially when the heavens decide to play against you. Here is the process I use when assessing lighting conditions and how this photograph was taken.

Understanding the principles of lighting is fundamental in any photographer’s quest to a beautifully lit photograph. Fortunately, these principles are consistent regardless of where you are located in the world or how expensive your equipment is. Whether you’re using the latest Canon or a generation old Smartphone, light can be manipulated to your advantage.

Approaching every scenario with the same set of questions can radically change how you see light and ultimately how you take pictures. Where is the light coming from, where is the even light and where are the greatest differences in the light?

Place the subjects in shade

Shade weddings

Here you can see the scene exposed to what the human eye sees. The background is correctly exposed which throws the foreground into darkness. What we want is to do is correctly expose the foreground to create a clean canvas with an overexposed background. In this scenario, there is about three stops difference in exposure, which is perfect.

Shade overexposed weddings

By placing the couple under the branches of the tree they are instantly evenly lit. There are no stray light rays coming through branches or dappled light on faces, and the pebbles on the driveway aid in reflecting light back onto the subjects. By exposing for the skin tones the background will be overexposed, providing a clean canvas.

A few tweaks in Lightroom to warm the skin and recover some of the highlights and voila! An evenly lit portrait on a rainy day. The added benefit of the tree branches is that they, of course, provide shelter from the wind and rain. This technique of using trees as shelter can also be employed on dry days that are windy. Even if the sun is shining, a venue on a hill can increase the risk of a veil blowing away!

Confetti

Why is this difficult? Depending on the location of the venue or church, you may be competing with changing light that the couple will walk through as they process down the confetti line. This is problematic as you are going to be walking backward, trying to capture the action, as well as tracking the changing light.

It is quite common in the UK for churches to have tree lined pathways, this creates a lighting issue as a break in the trees will cause the couple to walk from light to shade to light, etc. This can mean a dramatic jump in exposure.

Confetti lighting weddings

Take pictures of your hand

This is probably the easiest method to test the exposure of skin tones which can and should be used to test all of the techniques in this article. Take a photograph of your hand, inspect the screen and adjust accordingly. The wedding guests may look at you in an odd way, but when you’re working at a fast pace this can be a life saver.

Take images of your hand in both the light and the shade and note the difference in exposure before the bride and groom appear. Depending on how you shoot, it makes sense to only change one setting as you will be multi-tasking. The control for shutter speed on Canon cameras is located where the index finger naturally rests, and logically is the easiest of the settings to change.

Pay attention as the couple moves from light to shade, remembering the readings of your hand. The camera settings are displayed in the viewfinder and alternate between the two as the light changes. Where possible, pre-plan your shots, performing a mental run through of where people are likely to be and what lighting difficulties you may encounter.

Confetti lighting 2 weddings

First dance

Who knows what kind of lighting setup the DJ will have. Will they make a beautiful white spotlight for the first dance, or will they bust out some crazy laser snowflakes? Anything could happen. One method to overcome this is to shoot into the DJ’s lights and use them as compositional features rather than compete with them.

This isn’t the only option, sometimes shooting with the lights are beneficial as it gives you scope to capture the guest’s reactions. To create this shot, one flashgun at both corners of the stage (pointing at the center of the dance floor), elevated on tripods, and attached to Yongnuo wireless triggers were used.

First dance weddings

This setup offers two things. Firstly, by backlighting the subject even exposure on the skin can be achieved with no unwanted shadows. Secondly, you don’t have to worry about what the DJ is doing with their lighting setup.

It pays to ask the DJ before any dancing commences, what they plan to do and work with them. You would certainly be unlucky should you encounter anyone who wasn’t amiable in having a discussion. However, the point remains that they have a job to do. If they feel the song warrants a change in lighting then they will adapt it for the benefit of the wedding, not for your advantage. This is completely understandable, however, lighting surprises aren’t often welcome. This is why it makes sense to pre-plan and take control of the lighting.

Lens chimping technique

A caveat to shooting in this way is that it is possible to end up with equipment or the DJ themselves in the background. For this reason, an interesting tactic to employ is Sam Hurd’s lens chimping technique. By placing a convex lens element in front of your lens it creates cool flares and throws the background out of focus.

First dance 2 lens chimping technique

Practice is certainly recommended as an incorrect application of this technique can result in the lens element focussing all lights onto your sensor and completely blowing out the shot. The first dance is often a tricky one to shoot, it would be interesting to hear about your ideas and innovations below. Happy shooting!

Conclusion

Hopefully, these quick tips will help you deal with challenging lighting situations at weddings or any other photography opportunities. Do you have any others you want to share? Please do so in the comments below.

The post How to Overcome Difficult Lighting Scenarios at Weddings by Liam Smith appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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How to Prevent Photo Horror Stories — 6 Scary Photo Scenarios & How to Get Through Them

25 Oct

Extra photos for bloggers: 1, 2, 3

As photographers, we plan and plan for big shoots.

But, we all have those days. The ones where that black cat that crossed our path, or we accidentally walked under a ladder.

Despite our best efforts, things can go wrong from time to time.

We’ll show you how to ward off those photoshoot nightmares. Our tips will prevent scary photo scenarios like garlic chases vampires away!

How to Prevent Photo Horror Stories

p.s. Take a peek at our Pinterest today for a chance to win a set of Tattly Temporary Camera Tattoos!

No Memory Cards, No Problem

paint-smDear Photojojo,

I booked a photoshoot, and when I got there, I realized I had forgotten ALL of my memory cards! I apologized to the client and rescheduled, but I felt like such a dummy. How do I prevent this in the future?

Love,
Forgetful in Florida

Dear Forgetful,

This happens to the best of us. Here are some simple ways to keep track of your memory!

  • Make a checklist of all necessary equipment. Leave it by your keys the night before a shoot. Check it off in the morning before you leave.
  • Stash extra memory cards in common places. Leave one in your car, a hidden pocket in your camera bag, or in your wallet. That way you’ll always have a backup!
  • Shoot tethered to your laptop! By connecting the USB cable that comes with your camera to your laptop, images will be saved onto the computer instead of a memory card. This may limit mobility, but it will prevent you from disappointing your client.

Sincerely,
Photojojo

Grain, Grain, Go Away!:

paint-sm Dear Photojojo,

I got home from a shoot only to realize I shot everything at 6400 ISO. The grain and noise is insane! What do I do?

Help!
Grim and Grainy

Dear Grim and Grainy,
Here are a few ways to enhance those grainy images.

  • You can use CameraRaw, Photoshop’s built in file converter for RAW files, to reduce noise in the image. The “filter” menu in Photoshop also has a noise reduction feature.
  • Other editing programs, such as iPhoto, Aperture, and Picassa have similar features or plug-ins you can install.
  • Only sharpen the parts of your photo that really need it. When you sharpen an image, it increases the contrast between the light and dark areas. Sharpening the whole image will increase the appearance of those noisy pixels all over. By selectively sharpening certain areas, you can minimize the grainy look.
  • You can also turn noisy color images into black and white. The grain gives it that good-old-fashioned-film feeling, and black and white takes away the distraction of colored pixels.

Keep your chin up!
Photojojo

White Balance Woes:

paint-smDear Photojojo,

All of my photos have a strange color cast. My indoor photos look orange, and outdoor ones look blue.

I’m guessing I have the wrong white balance settings? What is white balance anyway?

Is there anything I can do?
Blue in Longview

Dear Blue,

White Balance can be tricky, even for the most experienced photogs.

  • Your camera has settings to adjust for the temperature/color of light you are shooting in. Set your camera to the correct white balance while shooting, like daylight outside, and tungsten settings for indoors, to keep the color cast minimal.
  • Keep a gray card or a white balance lens cap in your camera bag for setting your white balance on location. A gray card is a neutral, 18% gray. Place the card in your scene for one shot, and remove it for your the next.
  • By doing this, you can set a custom white balance for each particular scene. Or use it when editing images on the computer later.
  • You can also correct white balance settings after the fact. With editing software like Photoshop, GIMP, or Adobe Lightroom, you can correct for a color cast.
  • If your image looks too blue, adding in yellow can help neutralize the tones. If it is too orange, adding a bit of cyan, green, and blue will make it look normal.

Yours truly,
Photojojo

Eyes Wide Shut:

paint-sm Dear Photojojo,

I photograph weddings. It never fails that during group photos, someone will blink or make a face.

Are there any tricks for getting people to keep their eyes open?

Sincerely,
Eyes Closed in Minnesota

Dear Eyes Closed,

It’s definitely hard to get everyone to look perfect at the same moment.
Here are some tips:

  • Make sure your group shot is in a nice shady place facing away from the sun. It’s even harder for people to keep their eyes open when the sun is shining in them (obvi).
  • Here’s another trick. Use a tripod, and take A LOT of photos of the same group. Numbers can work in your favor. For groups smaller than 20, divide the number of people by three if there’s good light and two if the light’s bad. That’s how many shots you need to take. Then use editing software to swap heads if someone is blinking or making a funny face in the group photo.

Happy Shooting,
Photojojo

Constant Callers:

paint-sm Dear Photojojo,

I recently did a photoshoot for a friend, and now she’s calling me everyday to check on her photos. I want to stay friends with her, but her constant calls are driving me crazy!

How do I tell her that editing takes time?

Sincerely,
Aggravated in Arizona

Dear Aggravated,

You are not alone in this situation. Try to stay positive, and remember she is just anxious to see your amazing work.

  • Remind your friend that you want to give her the best product you can, and in order to do so, you need at least a week or two.
  • If you plan to work with clients more frequently, put a section in your contract that explains the turnaround time. Let them know up front when they can expect to see the finished images.
  • Make a mini blog post on your site to give her a preview of those rad photos!
  • Email her or Instagram one pic a day until you get them all finished. She’ll be excited and check her email more than her texts.

Keep calm,
Photojojo

Cry Babies:

paint-sm Dear Photojojo,

With the Holidays coming up, I’ve started booking more sessions with kids and families.

How do I deal with children that won’t quit crying?

Sincerely,
Cranky in Connecticut

Dear Cranky,

  • How bout penciling a sweet ‘stache on that lil cutie?! Keep one of these in your camera bag and everyone will be laughing.
  • Attach a PEZ dispenser to your camera’s hot shoe to get portraits of kids with a little curiosity on their face.
  • Turn the music up, and use the ioShutter release to dance around with the little one and snap away at candid moments.
  • Another secret weapon… BUBBLES! Who can resist?

Dry those eyes,
Photojojo

Still Puzzled?:

  • Have other photo problems? Send us an email.
  • Share your photo horror story or your advice by tagging us @photojojo on Twitter and Facebook.
  • Send us a link to your favorite photo problem-solving forum!

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