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Posts Tagged ‘Safely’

Video: How to safely make a 35mm daguerreotype at home

05 Dec

In the latest episode of ‘Darkroom Magic,’the George Eastman Museum’s historic photographic process specialist, Nick Brandreth, teaches viewers how to make a 35mm daguerreotype at home without the use of dangerous or expensive chemicals.

The daguerreotype gets its namesake from its creator, Louis Daguerre. The daguerreotype was introduced to the masses in 1839, becoming the first commercially viable photographic process. Although it fell out of favor about a decade later, the process has distinct characteristics that made it the process of choice for some specialists throughout the 20th century.

Nick Brandreth with some of his 35mm daguerreotypes

As Brandreth says, the at-home daguerreotype process is quite simple. In addition to a 35mm camera, you need a silver plate, or in his case, a piece of copper with silver plating. Orange or red glass is required in lieu of using mercury, which is part of the traditional daguerreotype process. You need iodine fuming materials and a glass vessel. Additionally, polishing materials are required to give your silver plate a mirror-like finish. The full ingredients are shown in the video below.

After you have gathered your materials, you must first buff and polish the silver plate. The first step requires a buff, olive oil, and rottenstone compound. This step removes any big scratches. Be sure to wash the plate with soap and water in between steps. The next stage is to polish the plate using lampblack, bringing the plate to a mirrored finish.

You’ll need a variety of materials to do this project, but they’re all safe, unlike the mercury used in the traditional daguerreotype process.

With the polished plate ready, the next stage is fuming. Combining silica gel beads and pure elemental iodine in a glass, you create a fuming material and place the polished plate above it, creating a photosensitive surface. The surface is sensitive to ultraviolet, violet and blue light, so you’ll want to expose it with natural light or a suitable artificial light source.

Orange or red glass is used to develop the plate. It takes between 30 and 45 minutes to fully develop the plate. It will then require fixing and a finishing stage.

The plate is now ready to be exposed. Place it inside your 35mm camera and the camera’s pressure plate should keep it stable. After exposure, it’s time for the ‘magic to happen,’ as Brandreth says. Place your exposed plate under a piece of red or orange glass and hit it with sunlight or a strong work light. You can watch the plate develop over the next 30 to 40 minutes. After this, give it a smooth, consistent fix and then wash the plate. To watch the finishing stage, be sure to watch the video above, as it requires a few steps.

If you’re interested in the science and art of photography, you can learn more about workshops at the George Eastman Museum’s website. Many more interesting videos can be viewed on its YouTube channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to safely operate a drone in urban areas

16 Mar
Photo by Kara Murphy

Just a few weeks ago, a drone crashed through a window on the 27th floor of a building in Chicago. Last year, a tourist was apprehended for flying in downtown Manhattan, in the heart of New York City, where UAV operations are strictly prohibited. The month before, a remote pilot avoided disaster when his DJI Phantom 3 drone plummeted 36 stories from where it was inspecting a crack that formed on a window of San Francisco’s Millennium Tower. It crashed on the sidewalk, missing pedestrians by inches.

When operated properly, drones are capable of capturing angles and gathering critical data in areas that helicopters and small planes can’t access. Launching a drone in crowded spaces poses two key potential risks: signal loss caused by magnetic field interference, and drifting caused by wind tunnels lurking between high-rise buildings.

In the US*, drones can be flown in cities, where it is legal under 14 CFR Part 107 rules, which allow the operator to fly more than 400 ft. AGL (above ground level) as long as the drone remains within 400 ft. of a building, or with the proper Certificate of Waiver or Authorization (COA) from the FAA. However, doing so requires the remote pilot-in-command to conduct a thorough risk assessment, identify potential hazards, and establish a set of emergency procedures to ensure the safest outcome possible.

Calibrate the compass before heading downtown

The most foolproof way to prevent a fly-away, and ensure location accuracy during flight, is to calibrate your drone’s compass. Locate an open field, roughly 15km (10 miles) away from where a flight in a heavily-congested area is planned; avoid parking structures with metal guardrails and cell phone towers, and remove watches and metal jewelry as even the slightest bit of magnetic interference will disrupt this critical procedure.

Always make sure to calibrate your drone’s compass before flying in congested or urban environments.

Photo by Kara Murphy

Once at the calibration site, follow the procedure for calibrating your drone’s compass. With minimal interference it will account for magnetic declination, which will allow it to operate with a higher degree of accuracy.

Make sure multiple flight modes are enabled

Most consumer-grade drones are equipped with intelligent flight modes and stabilization systems to ensure smooth, steady flights. On DJI drones there are three main flight modes — P-Mode (Position), A-Mode (Attitude), and S-Mode (Sport) — that can be accessed directly using the remote control. Both Position and Sport Mode rely on GPS and Glonass to hold the drone’s position in the air.

While most flights can be conducted in Position Mode, as it allows the drone to hover in place and easily return home, there will be times when signal interference is severe. Attitude, or ATTI Mode, which retains altitude but causes the drone to drift with the wind, is the only option for flying where signals are compromised. And, since part 107 rules allow a pilot to operate up to 400 feet (120 meters) above the topmost part of a structure, encountering strong winds is inevitable.

DJI controllers feature a hardware toggle to quickly switch between Position, Attitude, and Sport modes.

Note: although GPS is disabled in ATTI mode, the GPS module still locates the drone in the background, meaning that someone can’t use ATTI mode to circumvent restricted flight zones.

Switching from P-Mode to A-Mode is as simple as a flip of the switch on the controller. This shortcut can be accessed when Multiple Flight Modes are enabled in the DJI Go App. If the drone can no longer operate in Position or Sport Mode, it will automatically default to ATTI Mode. It’s always preferable to initiate this transition instead of being taken by surprise when the drone activates ATTI Mode on its own.

Practice flying in ATTI mode

As a general rule, you should never fly between tall buildings with GPS enabled. Numerous signals between buildings cause interference and create a substantial margin of error in the compass, setting the drone off course. The worst case scenario a pilot can encounter when flying in a congested area is relying on Position Mode, which stabilizes the drone and makes controlling it practically effortless, only to have the drone default to ATTI mode when the signal is inevitably lost.

Attitude, or ATTI Mode, is the only option for flying where signals are compromised.

Guiding a drone that drifts with the wind is difficult and requires hours of preparation. Practicing in a large, open field with few trees and obstacles is the best method for learning how to maintain control of a drone when it won’t automatically hover in place. The first time ATTI mode is activated, the drone will immediately drift, and it startles even the most seasoned pilots. Don’t be caught off guard, learn how to handle the drone so it can be expertly guided on its intended path.

Identify the Minimum Obstacle Clearance Altitude

When flying near tall structures, a drone may lose its connection or run critically low on battery power earlier than expected. The Return to Home feature will automatically activate and, assuming the compass is calibrated properly, the drone will fly back to the remote pilot.

Creating a safe flight path requires a pilot to identify the height of the tallest structure in the area, and then add a margin of roughly 3m (10 ft) to ensure the drone clears every last obstacle. The Minimum Obstacle Clearance Altitude (MOCA) can be determined several ways.

Identifying the height of the tallest building is imperative to ensuring you don’t collide during any part of your flight.

Photo by Kara Murphy

I personally looked up the information online for a group of buildings I was photographing in San Francisco. Contacting a building manager is another option. For smaller, lesser-known structures where information isn’t readily available, flying with the gimbal pitch set to level, and elevating to the point where the obstacle crosses the horizon is another method for determining MOCA.

Creating a safe flight path requires a pilot to identify the height of the tallest structure in the area.

Enabling obstacle avoidance sensors is an additional recommended precautionary measure. However, sensors can’t always identify reflections or shiny surfaces. This is why establishing MOCA and setting the Return to Home Altitude accordingly is imperative.

Attach prop guards

Prop guards are an effective tool for preventing a crash should a drone bump into a wall. They aren’t 100 percent foolproof, which is why the above steps need to be taken, but it helps to have them in place. They add weight to the aircraft, which will deplete battery life at a slightly faster rate, and practicing with them attached so you can make necessary adjustments is highly recommended. Depending on the model of the drone, obstacle avoidance systems may be disabled with the use of prop guards.

Keep the drone within close range

A complex job that requires navigating a congested area needs to be supported by a visual observer to help keep watch of the drone and maintain visual line of sight. Typically, flying a maximum distance of 500m (1600 ft) from your location is acceptable, however, in a crowded area, it’s preferable to keep the drone within closer proximity; 150-250m (approx. 500-800 ft) is ideal if you’re flying at an altitude that exceeds 120m (400 ft).

Before heading into an area with tall buildings and narrow corridors, practice flying in ATTI Mode in a wide open, nearby park.

Photo by Dale Baskin

Launch in Position Mode until the drone has cleared the pilot, crew, and any major nearby obstacles, such as a bridge or traffic light, that might impact the flight in its initial stages. Alternate to ATTI mode and continue ascension. When the drone drone returns, and is in close enough range, switch back to Position Mode to facilitate a sturdy landing.

The take away

Drones save time, money, and effort when operated properly, and can be very useful for things like building or tower inspections. Learning how to safely conduct flights in challenging environments is essential if you plan to fly in congested areas like a city center. Taking the time to do so provides an extra layer of safety, and if you’re flying for your business, gives you a potential leg up on the competition.

As pilots, it’s our responsibility to be prepared in order to keep the skies – and our urban areas – safe. And really, you don’t want to be that person who shows up on the news for not doing so.

*Rules and regulations vary by country. Make sure you know, and follow, the regulations for your particular location.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: How to safely and legally fly with camera batteries

18 May

Photography tutorial website The Slanted Lens has published a useful YouTube video guide on how to fly with lithium-ion camera batteries. These batteries are known for their volatility, an issue that reached mass public awareness during the Samsung Galaxy Note 7 recall. The FAA likewise raised concerns last year over lithium-ion batteries in checked luggage, citing their potential fire risk.

In its video, The Slanted Lens outlines all of the different types of batteries photographers may fly with, including ones installed in devices and standalone/spare li-ion batteries. Though some devices with built-in lithium-ion batteries can be packed in checked luggage, the team explains, the TSA requires others—such as a spare/standalone battery—to be packed in a carry-on.

It’s a useful guide if you ever fly with your camera, and especially if you fly to shoots with multiple cameras, spare batteries, drones, etc. Check it out for yourself up top, see a written version of the guide here, and if you’re even more curious, the FAA also has a guide on batteries, which you can find here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Lighting 103: How to Safely Gel a Speedlight

27 Jan

Do you work mostly with speedlights? If so, congratulations. Gelling your lights is going to be quick, easy and cheap. The fresnel lens on your speedlight (where the light comes out) is only about 3-4 square inches. And that is all you are ever going to need to gel on a speedlight.

As far as how to attach the gel, you have several choices and all are simple. But there are also a few things to watch out for, unless you want your gel to be permanently heat-welded to your flash. Read more »
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How to Travel Safely with Your Camera Gear

08 Nov

One of our favorite things about becoming photographers is the way the entire world seemed to open up once we picked up a camera. We currently live wherever we’re shooting. Over the past year, we’ve visited 10 countries on three continents, and countless cities in between. While we love the freedom of travel, our biggest concern is always how to travel safely with our gear. Whether you’re hopping on flights every other week or want to keep your camera with you to document your kiddos around town, there are some simple hacks to keep your gear in good shape and out of thieving hands.

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Make a list and check it twice

Before you leave the house, make a detailed list of every piece of equipment you’re taking with you, along with all the serial numbers. It’s helpful to be able to tally the list up whenever you’re in transit. There isn’t a worse feeling than hopping on a train and realizing you thought your 50mm lens was in your backpack when it is actually waiting for you on the kitchen table. Make a list, run through it, and save yourself the effort of keeping every piece of gear in your own head. Having the serial numbers recorded will help you report and track them should they ever go missing.

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Our travel gear checklist changes depending on how long and far we’re traveling. When we took a six-month honeymoon in Asia last autumn, our list looked very different from when we fly to say, New York to shoot a wedding. Our two checklists look something like this:

Personal Travel Checklist

  • 2 Canon Mark IIIs – one for each of us, though sometimes we get crazy and only bring one body.
  • 50mm f/1.2 lens – ALWAYS. We never leave home without this lens as it affords us the greatest flexibility to shoot any scene.
  • 45mm f/2.8 tilt-shift lens – When we travel through cities, having a tilt-shift is ideal for us, and since we also love shooting portraits with it, it somehow became one of our most versatile lenses.

Professional Travel Checklist

  • 2 Canon Mark IIIs
  • 50mm f/1.2 – If pressed, we could probably shoot an entire wedding with it!
  • 45mm f/2.8 tilt-shift – Again, awesome for setting scenes and for individual portraits.
  • 35mm f/1.4 – Shooting couple’s portraits with this one sets a slightly more interesting scene than the 50mm and allows you to get better environmental details. It’s also our go-to for dance floor shots.
  • 85mm f/1.2 – Though we wish this one had a faster focus, it is just nuts how gorgeous this lens is. It takes portraits to an entirely new level. But it also weighs roughly one million pounds, so we use it less often than we’d like because it’s just too heavy for casual personal travel.

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Depending on the size and scope of the project, we may also bring:

  • 70-200mm f/2.8 – This is a battle because we definitely prefer to not carry it. But it’s a great catch-all lens for shooting from the very back of large ceremonies or capturing wedding guests from a distance and staying out of a scene.
  • 17-40mm f/4 (we use this wide-angle lens less and less, but occasionally it provides a good way to grab an entire wedding ceremony or a building from closer up. We’re increasingly turning to our 35mm for the work we used to put on the wide angle.)

Our lighting setups are the most difficult part of travel, and inevitably earn us a long date with security. If we’re bringing our bare minimum, it includes the following:

  • Canon Speedlite 600EX-RTs – We have two matching Speedlites and the ST-E3-RT Transmitter. These serve us well for most weddings, but if we have to bring something a little heftier, we’ll also add . . .
  • Profoto B1 setup – This light is amazing. But it adds one more whole bag to carry on with us and we try to leave it for home studio work as much as possible to reduce our carry-ons. with the Profoto 36″ RFI Octa Softbox. The B1 also requires a . . .
  • C-stand –These are heavy as heck and a huge hassle to fly with, so we normally end up leaving it at home and just renting it wherever we land. For some equipment that is just too bulky, heavy, or awkward, consider the relative costs and benefits of renting it at your shoot location. For us, the $ 20 or so to rent a C-stand far outweighs the hassle of traveling with it.

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Before you leave for any trip, whether personal or professional, it’s imperative to know your ideal outcome for photos. We don’t bring a zoom lens or flashes on personal trips because we don’t shoot wildlife or anything that would require long lenses. We use only ambient light whenever possible and prefer our night photography to only incorporate the light that already sets the scene.

Even for professional projects, we pack very carefully and keep our projects in mind as we put our gear together. Some large weddings or events might require a wide angle lens or a longer zoom, but if we can avoid bringing a lens we will. This requires more work on the planning end, working closely with our clients, and knowing our equipment really well. But it’s worth it when we can pack all of our gear into a little bag and be very confident that we can produce great work with it!

Downsize

On that note, pre-travel is a great time to downsize your gear. Take only what is most important to you, and consider the images you’ll be aiming for while you travel. We never leave home without our 50mm f/1.2, but depending on the kind of trip we may also bring along our tilt-shift lens or our 1950s Yashica film camera as well. You want to have options, but bringing along your entire catalog of gear without a specific plan for it will only add stress to your life. Keep it light, and use what you’ve got.

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We got this case used for $ 20 at a camera shop and it has the best repackable/removeable foam pads in it.

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If you’re flying, this is especially true. Keep your gear minimal enough to fit in your carry-on luggage. We would rather crawl to a destination than check a bag containing our most precious gear and let it out of our sight. Yes, it’s a super hassle to run your gear through security (they always seem to be blown away by light sets, old film cameras, and unusual lenses), but it also leads to some good conversations, and the extra time is worth the peace of mind.

Going through customs

A thought on customs forms: If you enter a country that may have an iffy relationship with journalists, lay low and don’t mark “photographer” or “journalist” on their customs forms. Drawing attention to your camera gear and your ability to use it will often create more hassle at the airport when you land. While we don’t encourage anyone to lie on their entry forms, the more you can stay under the radar the better.

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Protect your data

We carry LaCie Rugged hard drives with us everywhere and back up whenever we can. We use online storage when we can find fast internet, but good luck finding wifi strong enough to upload a thousand raw files when you’re high up in the Burmese mountains. I keep track of this thing just as closely as I keep track of my passport. Why LaCie Rugged? The last thing we need is a hard drive failing because the dirt road was too bumpy when it was sitting in the back of some mud covered jeep.

Note: Price LaCie Rugged drives on Amazon.com and B&H Photo’s websites. 

lacie-drive-travel-photography

We also use large memory cards that we back up every night. We always have a backup card in our briefcase, but as long as our cameras are with us, the memory card is as well. 

Make your gear look cheap

Avoid fancy, overdone camera cases and accessories. Anything with brand logos or obviously expensive features will draw attention to you. While you move your gear into your new low-key camera bag (there are lots of solid options out there that look like a regular bag, or you can buy protective inserts to slip into the old backpack that’s already sitting in the back of your closet), make a couple of tweaks to your gear that will instantly make it look less conspicuous:

  • Remove your logo-covered camera strap (I mean, unless Canon is paying you to advertise for them, you don’t need their logo on your strap) and replace it with something more personal.Cover up your camera brand on the body with black gaffer’s tape (or even duck tape if you’re super committed). Not having that white print will make your camera look more average and take the attention away from how much you might have paid for it.

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  • Scuff it up, baby! We’ve been shooting on our Canon 5D Mark IIIs for over three years now, and they are certainly showing the wear and tear of being dragged all over the world—and I love it! It’s like that well-worn sweater that everyone else thinks is a bit too beat-up, but you love it more every time you wear it. Those scuffs and marks mean you’re using your gear and that it’s serving you. Don’t rush to polish it up or replace it when it looks old. That charm is hard-earned and will cause anybody eyeing your gear to think it’s worth less than it probably is. Double win.

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Safety at your location

Of course, getting to a place in one piece is only half the battle. Once you’ve landed, you have to keep your wits about you and work wisely. A few brief thoughts on shooting safely once you arrive:

  • Just like at home, don’t display your camera gear in a way that invites attention. Keep it close to your body, on a strap, or zipped into a bag that’s close to you. It’s amazing to me how many people will wander around with their cameras on full display, which doesn’t just make you look like a tourist, it’s inviting thieves to follow you.
  • Don’t talk to strangers about your stuff! We sat next to some drunk and friendly travelers in a bar once who wanted to show us their big zoom lenses they just bought. They made fun of our tiny 50mm, but we couldn’t help but feel like we’d get the last laugh as our camera setup was (though more expensive than theirs) tiny, inconspicuous, and less appealing to thieves who don’t know the difference.travel-safely-with-gear-8
  • A thought on tripods: we never, ever travel with them. They are awkward to set up in public areas, invite unwanted attention, and in 99% of cases aren’t actually necessary. We use makeshift tripods – things like banisters, tables, rocks, bar tops, etc., to get a steady shot when needed. We too often see other photographers making a big deal out of setting up a tripod Hi, thieves! We’re over here!) when they could have gotten just as excellent a shot with a slightly faster shutter speed. Strongly consider whether or not you need a tripod and make the best decision for yourself, and if you do bring one, keep your camera strap around your neck while you shoot. 
  • While you should always be careful in unsafe neighborhoods, we also recommend that you do not limit yourself to only visiting “safe” areas while you travel. Not only can theft happen anywhere, but you’ll miss some of the best parts of travel if you restrict yourself too much. When shooting in neighborhoods with a higher likelihood of crime, be alert. Walk confidently with your head up and avoid hunching around your gear as if you have something to hide. Keep your bags zipped and always be aware of pick-pockets, no matter where you are. Shoot confidently without inviting too much attention to yourself. 

Conclusion

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Capturing all the beauty and hidden corners of this world is one of the most satisfying things about becoming more proficient with our gear. Though there are risks anytime you leave the house with pricey items strapped to your shoulder, this gear is made to be used, to show some wear and tear, and not to be thought of as so precious that it’s left at home.

How do you protect your gear when you travel? Please share your comments and tips below.

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The post How to Travel Safely with Your Camera Gear by Tim Sullivan appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Keep calm and carry on: tips for safely transporting spare camera batteries

21 Oct

If you read too much news you might believe that Samsung Galaxy Note 7 smartphones are exploding all around the globe like miniature incendiary devices. You might even think that lithium-ion batteries are the work of an evil empire intent on spreading terror throughout the civilized world. Indeed, these combusting batteries have caused a good deal of concern, if not terror, and many consumers are questioning how safe the lithium-ion cells we use in our cameras are.

It is worth pointing out at this stage that of the over 2.5 million Galaxy Note 7s that were shipped before they were withdrawn only around 90 had over-heated, and fewer again had actually caught fire. A 90 in 2.5 million hit rate wouldn’t be reported if we were talking about the phone’s microphone not working, but as the potential is a pocket, handbag, house or hand actually catching fire the frequency of occurrence is obviously way too high. 

The good news is that the lower capacity batteries you pack in your camera bag are much less likely to cause a newsworthy scene than that in the Note 7, and by following some simple precautions you’ll be just fine.

What makes lithium batteries catch fire?

Smartphones need an astonishing amount of power to run the processors that control their multitasking activities, and the battery in the Samsung Galaxy Note 7 is rated at 13.48Wh. That’s a lot more powerful than most camera batteries – the EN-EL15 used to power the Nikon D810 for example is 11.8Wh.

Seen here: a Samsung Galaxy Note 7 that did not burst into flames.

The Note 7 battery is designed to be used in a device that Samsung wants to be as thin and as light as possible, so the battery has to be as thin and light as it can be made. That means we have a lot of charge in a very tight space. Lithium-ion cells are ideal for this sort of task as they are able to hold twice the charge of traditional metal cells such as nickel-cadmium and they are much lighter – lithium is the lightest metal element.

Problems arise in batteries for a number of reasons, but most center around some sort of short circuit between the positive and negative electrodes. Such short circuits allow energy to flow through the cell un-resisted which causes a build-up of heat that can lead to a fire.

In a lithium-ion cell the cathode (positive) and anode (negative) electrodes are immersed in an electrolyte conductive fluid and are kept apart by a porous barrier called a separator. During charging, and while the battery is being used, lithium-ions use the electrolyte fluid to travel between the anode and the cathode, passing through the porous separator on their way. At the same time, electrons pass between the anode and cathode via the device the cell is powering or the charger. If the separator is flawed it might allow electrons to travel between the two electrodes – a short circuit. If this happens the cell will begin to overheat.

This spiraling build-up is called ‘thermal runaway’ and the immense heat generated can make the cell and battery expand or explode

Problems can occur if the electrolyte fluid in the cell is contaminated with metal particles or if the separator is just too weak to do its job. The separator can also begin to break down when external temperatures are very high. The breakdown of the separator and the consequent unimpeded contact between negative and positive electrodes within the cell lead to a build-up of heat that can’t be dissipated, which subsequently leads to further break down within the structure of the cell. This spiraling build-up is called ‘thermal runaway’ and the immense heat generated can make the cell and battery expand or explode.

As most battery packs contain multiple cells to build voltage the breakdown in one will often overheat its neighbors and the reaction will be permeated through the entire unit.
The cell doesn’t need to have a manufacturer’s flaw to catch fire either, as any physical damage to the battery can rupture the separator or the individual chambers, allowing electrons to flow freely within the cells creating a short circuit. It only takes a tiny breach of the separator for thermal runaway to occur, as any breach will create heat that will further damage the separator and make a tiny hole bigger as the temperature rise accelerates.

How does this effect camera batteries?

Camera batteries tend not to pose such a high risk as they don’t contain as much energy as phone batteries do, but they can still be the cause of a fire if they aren’t treated correctly. Airlines allow lithium-ion batteries to be carried in carry-on luggage as if there is a fire it can be dealt with more easily in the cabin than it can in the hold. There are however restrictions on how many batteries can be carried in one place.

Some airlines recommend that the contacts are covered with electrical insulating tape to prevent them coming into contact with anything that might create a short circuit. 

Mail services tend to be most concerned about batteries rated above 100Wh. This doesn’t affect still camera batteries, which tend to be around 14Wh, but some larger video camera batteries can come into this bracket. These need special markings on the outside of the package. You might be required to pack each battery in its own plastic pouch, though taping contacts should be enough. Check with the company you are mailing or flying with for exact requirements. For an example, here are Delta airlines requirements:

Lithium Batteries
As you probably know, traveling with consumer electronic and medical devices containing lithium cells or batteries (e.g. watches, calculators, cameras, cell phones, laptops, camcorders, hearing aids, etc.) is allowed onboard as carry-on. Spare lithium batteries are allowed as carry-on only, and must be individually protected to prevent short circuits.
Tips to properly transport spare lithium batteries:
* Pack spare batteries in carry-on baggage.
* Keep spare batteries in the original retail packaging to prevent unintentional activation or short-circuiting.
* If original packaging is not available, effectively insulate battery terminals by isolating spare batteries from contact with other batteries and/or metal.
* Specifically, place each battery in its own protective case, plastic bag or package, or place tape across the battery’s contacts to isolate terminals.
* Take steps to prevent crushing, puncturing, or putting a high degree of pressure on the battery, as this can cause an internal short circuit, resulting in overheating.
Size Limits for Lithium Batteries:

Passengers are permitted to travel with lithium-ion batteries that contain a maximum of 160 watt hours per battery. Any lithium-ion battery containing more than 160 watt hours is prohibited from carriage on all passenger aircraft. lithium-ion batteries installed in a personal electronic device can be transported as checked or carry on baggage. lithium-ion batteries not installed in a device (spares) must be in carry-on baggage and no more than two (2) spares between 100 and 160 watt hours are allowed.

Keep calm and carry on (your spare batteries)

Fortunately there is no cause for alarm on the part of most photographers. We need to remember that lithium-ion batteries pose a risk if not taken care of and if we are careless about where we buy them. Chances are that if you use the battery that came with your camera and spares from the manufacturer or a well-known third party, you will never have an issue. Just be careful not to puncture the cell and to handle damaged batteries with extreme caution.

Another point worth noting is that the battery in the Galaxy Note 7 was installed in the phone and not designed to be removed, so it had a softer, less protective exterior shell. Most camera batteries are packed in hard plastic casing and are unlikely to split or rupture, or become critically damaged internally as a result of impact.

Camera batteries can catch fire like those used in the Samsung Galaxy Note 7, but you’ll have to go out of your way to make them do so. They won’t explode on their own accord and they are pretty unlikely to even overheat unless you forget to treat them with the respect they are due. 

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Taking your DSLR into the Backcountry Safely

23 Jul

In the Northern Hemisphere summer is finally here and that means it’s the beginning of camping season. It’s time to haul out the tent, the propane stove, the canoe, the bug hat and the DSLR. You visit all these beautiful places, gain a sense of peace and respect for Mother Nature, then come home and wish you were still there. Having beautiful, sharp images of the brutal trail you faced, the noisy bird that woke you at dawn, or the incredible sunset you experienced can make the experience all the more rich. The added bonus is you have some fantastic images you can hang on the wall and gaze at as you plan your next trip.

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Taking a DSLR into the back country isn’t as costly or as expensive as you would think. You don’t need the super high end gear. Your DSLR is fairly rugged, it can handle rain, heat, a few bumps, water, dust, campfire smoke, etc. It’s not as breakable as you might think. Whether you are hiking or canoeing/kayaking, taking your gear into backcountry is easy. I’ve been taking my DSLR into the backwoods of Northern Ontario for years and have never regretted the decision. It’s taken practice, but through trial and error, you too can find a system that lets you take your DSLR into the woods. When packing for a backcountry trip remember to consider the following.

How will you pack and protect your gear but make it easily accessible?

OPTION 1: A hard case

These are easy to access, and when closed properly are airtight. Your camera and lenses will be completely safe using this method. They are easy to access on the trail, just lift the lid. Hard cases can be adapted to fit a camera and a lens by removing some of the foam padding from within. You customize the case to your gear. The drawback is the added weight you will have to lug and the cases are awkward. Picture yourself dragging a tired body, a backpack containing a tent, food, clothing and a suitcase like object through the bush. It’s not easy. But if you want the 100% protected guarantee then this type of case is for you.

OPTION 2: A dry bag

This method doesn’t guarantee complete protection. If you capsize in a canoe or drop the gear into a river, dry bags don’t promise watertight protection. However, a dry bag is easy to strap to the canoe or kayak and can be packed into a standard tripping pack quite easily. The dry bag keeps it safe from the elements. The handle at the top makes it easy to carry. The trick is to create a padding system within the dry bag. I use an old foam mattress to pad my gear.

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Basically, cut up the mattress to fit your camera and bag. You can wrap spare lenses in the same foam and place them in the bottom of the bag. Dry bags can be purchased in varying sizes so you don’t have to buy a new bag for each combination of gear. This method is the cheapest, it’s fairly accessible and it’s certainly the easiest to carry.

OPTION 3: A tripping pack designed for carrying camera gear

There are several tripping packs that are designed to carry your tent, clothes, food and camera gear. These are excellent at protecting your gear and are designed for just such an outing. The problem is they aren’t very waterproof. They do come with a rain cover, but let’s face it, the gear is ruined if you drop the bag in a lake. If you are just hiking, then this is a fantastic option, these bags are designed for this job.

The drawbacks come for those of us who are smaller in stature or female. Most of the overnight backpacking bags are huge and become difficult to carry, especially for women. Sometimes chest straps don’t sit where they should and can be very uncomfortable. Comfort on the trail is extremely important: you don’t want to be in agony. Whatever you choose, make sure the pack fits properly. The comfort factor is the key to an enjoyable hiking trip.

How far will you travel? Can you really carry all that gear?

Tripping in the back country is hard work. You have to carry everything you need. You want to make sure enjoy your trip. If you are crippled under the weight of carrying, or portaging your camera gear, it isn’t going to be fun. Pack light and smart. Try to limit yourself to a few lenses, a filter or two, a few batteries and memory cards.

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Make it a fun challenge, take along one lens. Do you really need your 85mm lens if your 70-200 range zoom will cover this focal length? Be frugal with what you carry. This will push you to be creative in the types of shots you take. Also, it’s important to take a tripod for super sharp shots. Investing in a lightweight model is a good idea. The lightweight versions are pricier but worth it.

Use Common Sense

If you are going on a trip and serious about taking some great photos then make sure you plan for it.

  1. Cut down the number of kilometres (miles) you cover in a day in order to build in some time for photography.
  2. Choose a route that has some beautiful photographic locations. Plan in advance and do your homework.Back country photography2
  3. If canoeing or kayaking plan a route that doesn’t contain huge multi-kilometre portages that will drain you of energy.
  4. Make sure you tie your camera gear to your canoe/kayak for added safety in the event you dump.
  5. Portage through challenging rapids to avoid soaking gear.
  6. If the weather is challenging, stay undercover. You can get moving tomorrow.
  7. Don’t take your gear out of its protective bag if the water is really rough, especially if you’re a novice paddler.
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Finally, there’s one essential piece of gear that weighs almost nothing but you are guaranteed to regret it if you don’t take it. Always take a lens pen, and a couple of microfiber cloths, they are a must. Your gear will get dirty. Accept this fact now and simply remember to book your camera in for a thorough cleaning after you return. It will feel like a new camera afterwards, that’s a bonus.

It’s a little more work but it will be worth it. People will “oooh” and “ahhhh” at your photos, and who knows maybe you will inspire a friend to take same trip because they just have to visit the place they’ve seen in your photographs.
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The post Taking your DSLR into the Backcountry Safely by Erin Fitzgibbon appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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