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Back to Basics: Everything You Need to Know for Choosing the Right Tripod

22 Jun

The post Back to Basics: Everything You Need to Know for Choosing the Right Tripod appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.

tips for choosing the right tripod

Although they seem simple enough at first glance, tripods are tremendously important tools for photographers and videographers. Talking about camera support systems might not be the sexiest topic in photography, but there’s so much to know about tripods. So, allow me to do you a favor. I’m about to clue you in on a few things I wish I’d known about tripods when I first began making photographs nearly twenty years ago. These things will help you when it comes to choosing the right tripod for your needs.

Back to Basics: Everything You Need to Know for Choosing the Right Tripod
Choosing the right tripod may seem overwhelming – but not once you know these things.

Camera tripods come in all shapes and sizes. Materials and mechanisms vary a lot, as do the specific usages of the tripods themselves. This article will show you the basics of tripod anatomy and talk about the things you need to know about them, so choosing the right tripod for your needs will be easy.

Tripod legs: putting the “tri” in tripod

Conceptually, tripods are delightfully simple beasts. Three extendable (usually) legs offer three points of contact to the ground/floor, then terminate at an apex where your camera will hopefully be securely mounted. This is all deceptively simple and leaves a lot of room for many different types of legs made from many different materials with equally varied locking mechanisms.

choosing the right tripod – Legs of tripods.

Let’s break down some of the common tripod leg variants you’re likely to encounter when choosing the right tripod.

Materials

Tripod leg materials range from the oddly archaic to the weirdly space-aged. Fortunately, in most cases, you can make the best choice for which material will be best for your uses based on these three simple maxims:

  1. Your tripod can be lightweight.
  2. Your tripod can be strong.
  3. Your tripod can be inexpensive.

The catch here is that you can only choose two of those when selecting a tripod. This is where tripod leg materials come into play and where you should be honest with yourself about what you need the most from your tripod.

1. Wood and Steel

As difficult as it might be to believe in this day and age, I still own and regularly use a wooden tripod; yes, really.

choosing the right tripod – Tripod with medium format camera.

It’s a beautifully made contraption of steel and ash wood, Berlebach Report 2042 (new version is 242). Primarily, I use it for large format and medium format work and any other time in the studio when I want to use a large setup or happen just to be feeling extra meta. It supports around 27lbs(12.25kg) and is absolutely rock solid. The drawback is my lovely Berlebach weights over 7lbs without a head, and it tips the scales at over 10lbs when fitted with one.

The point here is that yes, there are still tripod legs made using “old world” materials like wood and steel. Many of these are vintage tripods you can pick up for a wide range of prices.

If weight is not a concern for you, a heavier tripod is more ideal than a lighter one. If you do primarily static studio work, don’t overlook these wood or steel tripods.

2. Plastic

Yes, there are some plastic tripod legs out there. Most of these, thankfully, are relegated to smaller, desktop-type tripods for blogging – as they should be.

A plastic tripod.
A tiny little plastic tripod….

As a construction material for longer tripod legs, plastic and plastic derivatives aren’t ideal. Often the strength is far from adequate for the camera support system and flexes under the load.

While some plastic components on a tripod are perfectly fine, it’s advisable to steer clear of a large tripod with legs completely made from plastic.

3. Aluminum

Ahhhh yes, good ol’ aluminum. In the world of tripods, aluminum is the ultimate workhorse. It has an excellent strength-to-weight ratio, is relatively low in price (dropping lower all the time), and makes for a nice, healthy compromise between leg rigidity, compactness, and weight.

choosing the right tripod – Legs of an aluminum tripod.
Aluminum tripod legs.

For the last couple of decades, aluminum has been the tripod leg material of choice when it comes to camera support systems because it checks so many boxes in terms of performance.

However, in the last ten years or so, modern science has thrown a new material into the mix that has all but unseated aluminum as the ideal material for tripod leg construction.

I’m talking about…

4. Carbon Fiber

I’ve made photographs for over half my life now, with about ten of those years professionally. For as long as I’ve been slinging a camera, I only acquired my first carbon fiber tripod about three years ago. Carbon fiber is a lightweight, strong, and extremely corrosion-resistant material, making it perfect for tripod legs.

Carbon fiber legs of a camera support system.
Carbon fiber is strong, lightweight and becoming increasingly affordable.

Not to get all “sciency,” but carbon fiber is, in fact, more stiff than aluminum, being 181Gpa and 69Gpa, respectively. This means that a tripod leg made of carbon fiber flexes less than an aluminum leg of the same diameter. That’s a good thing for a tripod.

Of course, there are multiple carbon fiber species out there, and each has different characteristics.

Going back to our “big three” maxims for tripods, while carbon fiber tripods are strong and lightweight, they are often not cheap. Expect to pay around double for a set of carbon fiber tripod legs compared to aluminum.

However, this price gap is quickly closing as more and more manufacturers begin to bring carbon fiber tripods to the market. In most cases, the benefits of having an easy-to-carry tripod that is both strong and stable are often worth the investment.

5. Titanium

After an exhaustive internet search (okay, maybe about ten minutes), I couldn’t turn up any tripod legs made fully from titanium alloy. However, I did find some tripod sales pages using vague language and simply naming aluminum tripods as “titanium” models.

While titanium is making its way into the world of tripod legs, it is doing so in the form of hardware too. This is expected since titanium offers superb tensile strength and corrosion resistance. Yet, oddly enough, titanium isn’t the ultimate material for tripod legs and parts. It doesn’t wear well against other parts, and the strength-to-weight isn’t as good as some carbon fiber materials.

And the price? Words like “astronomical,” “insane” and “laughable” spring to mind.

Locking Mechanisms

To offer portability, tripod legs generally feature either folding or telescopic sections, with the vast majority being of the latter variety. This means that those leg sections sport some sort of locking mechanism. In general, you’re likely to encounter two main types of leg locks.

1. Flip locks

My very first tripod had flip-type leg locks. Then, my second tripod had flip-type leg locks…so it’s no surprise that I became accustomed to, and prefer, flip-type leg locks on my tripods. This, of course, is wholly subjective.

Flip locks are exactly how they sound: a locking mechanism that flips up to release the tripod leg section and flips down to secure it into place.

Flip locks on camera support system.
A flip-lock.

These locks make deploying the tripod fast and easy. Flip locks can be made of a variety of materials and vary in strength accordingly.

2. Twist locks

It seems as if twist locks are slowly becoming the more prevalent method for locking tripod legs into place. Much like their flip-lock cousins, a twist-type leg lock doesn’t function just as you might expect. Simply twist one direction to unlock and twist the opposite direction to secure.

choosing the right tripod – Twist-locks on a tripod.
A twist-lock style of locking mechanism.

Twist locks are generally less likely to fail due to dirt and sand over flip locks. However, not all twist locks are made equal. Some twist locks require a good deal of “throw” (twisting) to lock or loosen the mechanism resulting in slower deployment retraction.

Tripod Feet

Now that we’ve reached the bottom of our tripod, it’s time to talk about the silent hero of all tripod legs – the seldom applauded feet. No matter what, your tripod ultimately comes to rest on its feet…well…hopefully.

The feet of a tripod come in all shapes and sizes and are another important consideration when choosing the right tripod. In most cases, tripod feet are made from some sort of rubber or rubberized plastic.

choosing the right tripod – rubberized feet
Rubberized tripod feet.

This is where things get interesting.

Now, the shape and characteristics of tripod feet make them more or least apt to remain solid in different environments. The larger the feet of your tripod, the more “flotation” they will offer; meaning the load will be distributed over a wider surface area. The more flotation a tripod foot has, the less likely it is to sink into softer ground materials like sand and mud.

High flotation tripod feet on camera support system.
An example of large, high-flotation tripod feet. These kind are great for sandy environments.

Speaking of the ground, if you know you’ll be using your tripod in widely varying outdoor environments (looking at you landscape shooters), it would be a good idea to make certain your tripod feet feature some type of spike system.

Tripod foot spike.
Retractable foot spike.

Foot spikes are your best friend when you find yourself shooting in icy winter conditions or on exposed rock. However, they are also your worst enemy when shooting indoors and are the menace of wedding venues everywhere. So if you’re a photographer who shoots both outdoor and indoor scenes, make sure your leg spikes are retractable or removable.

It’s also worth mentioning that many major tripod manufacturers offer interchangeable feet for their products, which means you can change your tripod feet depending on the situation.

Center column or nah?

Let’s move a bit north and talk about a topic of contention when it comes to tripods – center columns. A center column allows the photographer to increase the tripod’s height after deploying the legs to their maximum extension.

choosing the right tripod - center columns.
A selection of tripods with center columns.

Center columns add wonderful versatility to a tripod’s capabilities simply because they facilitate the quick and tailored height adjustment. At the same time, center columns also introduce a point of movement into your shooting platform. Thus, causing the debate about whether or not using a center column hinders the overall quality of your photos.

Center columns are very much a double-edged sword in that they can add immense versatility to your shooting possibilities while also causing a few problems if poorly executed. As cliche’ as it might sound, the choice of whether or not you prefer a center column is entirely up to you.

Fortunately, the decision is becoming less and less of an issue, as many tripod makers now offer removable center columns for a large number of tripod models.

There’s so much more!

We’ve covered the main components of your tripod, but we haven’t even begun to talk about the wide world of ball heads, pan heads, and fluid heads! There are even base plates and plate clamps to talk about! So instead of reading about all of these cool little gadgets, why not see them in action?

Have a look at this video I made that covers all of the things we’ve already talked about plus the options that are currently available for mounting your camera to your particular camera support system.

As always, feel free to post your questions and comments about choosing the right tripod below. Have a favorite camera support system or setup you’d like to share with us? We would love to hear about them as well!

The post Back to Basics: Everything You Need to Know for Choosing the Right Tripod appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Adam Welch.


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Film Fridays: 20 film cameras worth buying right now

28 Mar
The Canon T90 is just one of the 20 film cameras worth buying right now. Check out Analog Gems – part 1 and Analog Gems – part 2 to view them all.
Photo: Dan Bracaglia

Happy Film Friday! In the spirit of celebrating all things analog, we felt today was the perfect time to take another look at our two popular film camera buying guides. These guides are chock full of cameras that are easy to find on the secondhand market in good working order, and many of them were included as staff and reader favorites. So if you’re a first-time camera buyer or simply looking to add to your collection, there’s probably a camera in there for you.

Analog Gems – part 1: 10 film cameras worth buying

Analog Gems – part 2: 10 more film cameras worth buying

Do note: the price of one or two cameras has jumped a good bit since initial publication (we’re looking at you Olympus Stylus Epic). That’s not to say we wouldn’t still recommend these cameras, just be aware of price inflation!

About Film Fridays: We recently launched an analog forum and in a continuing effort to promote the fun of the medium, we’ll be sharing film-related content on Fridays.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon EOS R5: Here’s why you probably don’t need 8K right now (and a few reasons why you might)

23 Mar

Here’s why you probably don’t need 8K right now (and why you might)

Canon’s recent announcement of the new EOS R5 wasn’t completely unexpected, but one of the camera’s key specifications, 8K video, did catch us a bit by surprise. 8K video has been in development for several years, but to date it’s mostly been limited to Hollywood-level cinema production and tech demos by Japanese broadcaster NHK.

With the R5 it looks like that may be about to change. In fact, we now know that the R5 will be able to capture 8K/30p using the full width of the sensor. Of course, there’s a lot more to video quality than just resolution, and we don’t expect the R5 to challenge a camera like the RED Helium 8K, but the fact that 8K is making its way into any consumer mirrorless camera suggests that this could be the tip of the iceberg.

With that in mind, let’s look at some reasons why you probably don’t need 8K video anytime soon – as well as a few reasons why you might.

Almost nobody is watching 8K

8K displays are absolutely incredible, and once you’ve seen one in person you can’t unsee it. It’s exciting to think that some day 8K displays will be everywhere.

But today, they’re not everywhere. In fact, they aren’t really anywhere except for niche locations like post-production environments or the living room of that guy down the street who always has the latest gizmo (and isn’t afraid to pay top dollar for it). Sure, 8K TVs are coming down in price, but they still run into the thousands of dollars and it will be a while before they’re commonplace.

8K TVs are coming down in price, but they still run into the thousands of dollars…

There’s also the question of whether most viewers will be able to see the difference between 4K and 8K. Even with good eyesight, human vision at typical viewing distances will be a limiting factor unless you’re using an exceptionally large display.

In short, there’s really no reason to get an 8K camera in order to deliver 8K content today.

You’ll probably need a new computer

Unless you’re in the high-end video production business, or possibly a really serious gamer, chances are pretty good that your current computer won’t be up to the task of editing 8K video.

The same thing happened when 4K video came on the scene. It wasn’t uncommon to discover that video rigs designed to cut through 1080p footage like butter could get mired down when working in 4K. We needed faster processors, faster video cards, faster storage and, of course, new 4K displays to take advantage of all that resolution.

We can expect similar challenges in the early days of 8K video. Early adopters will pay a premium to upgrade their editing equipment, so unless you really need to shoot 8K today it might be better to wait a couple years for better, and more affordable, mainstream support.

The files will be huge

Remember when we first started shooting 4K video and discovered just how big the files could be compared to HD? We needed larger memory cards, more of them, and in may cases, faster cards to accommodate the increased bit rates required for high quality 4K. Check out our recent review of the Panasonic S1H for a real world example of how this impacted DPReview’s Richard Butler.

Remember when we first started shooting 4K video and discovered just how big the files could be compared to HD?

Larger files also resulted in workflow changes. Some videographers who were used to editing entire projects on a laptop’s internal hard drive had to start carrying around external hard drives, and later, portable SSDs. Even archiving projects required more storage.

High quality 8K video will, to some degree, begin this cycle over again. At least this time we’re starting out in a world in which SSDs are ubiquitous, but we’re still going to need larger SSDs and faster connections to effectively work with 8K files. The good news is that SSDs are gaining capacity as prices continue to fall, and USB 4 promises to deliver faster connections for consumers without the high cost of Thunderbolt, but early adopters will again pay a premium.

Your current video lenses might hit their limits

A single frame of 4K video delivers around 8.2MP of resolution, something that’s comfortably within the resolving range of almost any lens from the modern digital era (and many earlier ones). In contrast, 8K video delivers roughly 33MP frames.

That’s within the working range of quite a few still cameras, and many recent optics are certainly capable of resolving that level of detail. If you already have higher resolving lenses that’s great, but if you’ve been shooting video using older lenses – including some from the digital era – you may find that you need to upgrade your glass to get the most out of 8K video.

To capture still photos from video

We’ve talked about several reasons why you probably don’t need 8K video today, but let’s consider a few reasons why you might want it anyway.

One might be to capture high quality still images from video. Heck, even 4K video provides enough resolution for many purposes, and features like Panasonic’s 4K and 6K Photo modes have been useful to many photographers. Having the option to capture 33MP images from video takes this to a whole new level.

At a recent NAB Show, Canon displayed a gallery of stunning photos that were extracted from 8K video frames; the quality was so high that they could have been shot with a modern DSLR. Of course, extracting photos from video may not be the ideal workflow for all types of photography, but for some it can work very well. We may very well see 8K photo modes on some cameras. Maybe even the R5.

For video post-production

8K video will provide immediate advantages when shooting and editing 4K projects; the camera operator will be able to plan a shot knowing it will be possible to ‘punch in’ later, and the editor will have more creative flexibility when cutting the project together.

The resolution provided by 8K will facilitate 2x cropping to 4K in post with no apparent loss of resolution, making it possible to simulate longer lenses or edit out distracting elements at the edges of a scene. It will also enable editing tricks like virtual zooms and pans. These techniques are frequently employed when editing 4K footage for HD delivery, but now the entire process can be scaled up.

8K will also allow you to do better green screen work. Good chroma-keying depends on the ability to discern fine details around the edges of your subject, such as hair. The more resolution you have to play with, the better. Other factors, such as color sub-sampling, are also important to the quality of green screen work, but all else being equal more resolution is an advantage.

To create even better 4K video

4K video is impressively detailed, but oversampled 4K video is even more detailed. So, even if you don’t need to create virtual crops, zooms or pans in your video you’ll still benefit from the effects of oversampling.

We’ve already seen a number of mirrorless cameras that oversample 4K in-camera, typically from a 6K starting point. However, sampling theory says that 8K is the minimum resolution you need to correctly capture the maximum resolution that 4K can show. In effect, it’s perfect oversampling, similar to the way the original Sony a7S (above) captured 4K and downsampled it to 1080 with zero luma aliasing.

To future-proof equipment

This one is tricky because it requires us to predict the future a bit more. However, there are a couple useful data points we can look at: 1) As a consumer technology, 4K video experienced more rapid adoption than many expected, and 2) The trend among camera buyers is to upgrade their cameras less frequently than they did in the past.

This suggests that 8K technology could be widely available more quickly than we anticipate as well. In fact, it’s already showing up on some smartphones. As a result, if you plan to keep your next camera for a while and want to make sure it’s future-proof, then it may be a good idea to ensure your next purchase is 8K-ready.

To future-proof content

There was a time when widespread access to HD TVs and displays seemed a long way off, but savvy content creators, including a lot of small, independent videographers, were already producing content in HD instead of SD. Why? Because they knew that if they didn’t, once HD was more widely adopted their content would appear dated quickly (and possibly even be excluded from some platforms).

This was true during the transition from HD to 4K as well, and we’ll likely see a similar trend as we move to 8K. Whether the visual difference between 4K and 8K at standard viewing distances is as noticeable as the previous transitions is debatable: both have so much detail it might be difficult to tell them apart.

Whether the visual difference between 4K and 8K at standard viewing distances is as noticeable as the previous transitions is debatable…

However, screens keep getting larger over time: the 24″ TV that sat in a family’s living room in the 1980s became a 65″ TV by the 2010s. If screens get big enough, the difference between 4K and 8K might actually become noticeable. There’s a counter argument to this, of course, which is that many people watch more content on the tiny screen that fits in their pocket than on a TV, so it depends a lot on your target audience.

Ultimately, if future-proofing your content is important, it might make sense to begin working in 8K early.

8K is coming, but do you need it now?

The Canon EOS R5 is likely the first of many cameras we’ll see with 8K video. At a technical level, we should at least recognize that this is a pretty impressive accomplishment for any manufacturer. However, whether you truly need 8K video in the near future is debatable.

If you’re the type of person who mostly shoots video to capture your own life adventures, share movies with friends on social media, or does fairly minimal editing on the video you shoot then there’s little incentive to adopt 8K today. Chances are good that you won’t notice much difference.

If you’re the type of person who mostly shoots video to capture your own life adventures… chances are good that you won’t notice much difference.

On the other hand, if you’re serious about video and produce 4K content, 8K has the potential to benefit your workflow: cropping to 4K in post, digital pans and zooms, and downsampling to create better 4K video being just a few examples. 8K will appeal to some stills photographers as well. Do you enjoy using 4K and 6K photo modes on your camera to nail the perfect frame? If so, you’ll probably love 8K photos.

Not sure if 8K is in your future? You can watch this 8K video on YouTube while you decide. Of course, you’ll need an 8K monitor to properly watch it, which you can find here. We’ll wait while you try it out.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time

05 Mar

The post A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.

photographers-guide-to-buying-a-drone

In this photographer’s guide to buying a drone, I’ll share with you some invaluable tips for buying a drone for the first time.

Seven years ago, my employer wanted a photo of a local lighthouse from an elevated viewpoint. It sounds ridiculous now, but very early on a winter’s morning, I was loaded into a cherry picker with two cameras and hoisted 15 meters in the air to take photos. I’m a little bit scared of heights, so I really had to concentrate on getting the images and not looking down!

With the introduction in the last few years of many relatively low-cost good quality drones (also known as UAVs – unmanned aerial vehicles), that whole scenario seems laughable.

So why should you think about buying a drone if you haven’t already?

Here are some of the key considerations.

Image: By chance, I saw this boat sailing past when I was taking aerial images of fishing boats in Y...

By chance, I saw this boat sailing past when I was taking aerial images of fishing boats in Yamba. Taken with the DJI Mavic.

A photographer’s guide to buying a drone

Why buy a drone?

The main reason for buying a drone is the unique viewpoints that it will bring to your photography that you couldn’t achieve easily otherwise.

Sure, you can take elevated images from buildings, planes, helicopters – or even a cherry picker. However, those options are unlikely to be suitable or cost-efficient, depending on what you’d like to photograph. Having a drone in your kit opens up new possibilities and viewpoints like never before.

How else would you be able to take images from viewpoints like this? Boats at the seaside taken with the DJI Mavic Pro 2.

What kind of photographers would benefit from having a drone?

The short answer is – all kinds of photographers. I’ve seen or heard of aerial images from UAVs used in many industries.

Travel

Aerial images have been a stable of Instagram travel accounts for years now. Many Instagrammers take a compact drone with them on their travels to add to the range of shots they can take at a destination. They can use the images for both posting on social media or as deliverables for clients.

These images are often featured by large national and regional travel accounts to showcase destinations.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

Real estate photographers

Drones are widely used amongst real estate photographers and seem to be essential kits these days.

Aerial images are common on many listings here in Australia to show the boundaries and layout of a property and its location to nearby landmarks and amenities.

Fine art

This is a small but very well paid niche. Some photographers make thousands of dollars for breathtaking fine art aerial images taken with UAVs.

Stock photographers

There’s been an increasing number of aerial images and videos sold on stock photography sites recently. Using a drone is one way to add to the range of images you have for sale in your portfolio.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

A stock photography library I shoot for had a call out for images to illustrate bad parking. This is an image I sold them for the campaign.

Wedding and portrait photography

Aerial images are becoming increasingly popular for weddings, engagement shoots, and portrait sessions.

Images for your family archive

When I’m out and about taking photos for stock or travel, my family often accompanies me. I love taking aerial images of them; it certainly makes for a different type of shot in the family photo archive.

Tips before buying a drone

If you’re thinking about buying a drone, it pays to do your research first. Take a look at photos taken by drones on Instagram using hashtags such as #dronephotography, #dronestagram, and #droneoftheday.

Which make and model of UAV took these images? Looking at the photos will give you a good indication of the quality you can expect from each model.

Join some drone-related Facebook groups. Have a read through the discussions and ask questions. People will often be happy to share how they took a photo, what equipment they used, and what post-processing they did on the image.

Image: My daughter taking her board out for a surf in northern New South Wales, Australia.

My daughter taking her board out for a surf in northern New South Wales, Australia.

Try before you buy

Do you know a friend who has a drone? Ask if you can go along with them next time they fly it and learn the basics. You could also see if a local drone Facebook Group has meetups where you can learn the ropes. Maybe you’ll love it, but maybe you’ll hate it. Handy to know before you shell out for such a high cost.

Buy cheap, buy twice

I’ve heard many people buy a cheap toy drone to see if they’ll like it. The truth is, many of those cheaper drones are a complete nightmare to fly, and people are put off when it crashes. Typically, the more expensive a UAV, the easier it is to fly.

I’d recommend the “try before you buy” approach over this.

Which drone should I buy?

Ultimately, this is down to two different factors: the first is your budget, the second is what you want to do with your aerial images.

If you want to sell your images for stock, weddings, or fine art, go with the drone with the best image quality. However, if you want to travel with your drone, take family photos or only post to social media, perhaps you’d value a compact, lighter offering.

Pros and cons of some popular drone models

Below are some of the pros and cons of popular drones.

The Mavic Pro

The Mavic Pro is one of the best-selling drones of all time. It’s capable of taking photos in both horizontal and landscape orientations, which I found very handy when I owned it. The 12-megapixel camera has a fixed f/2.2 aperture, which compared to newer offerings, is a bit limiting. The good news is, you should be able to pick up one for a good price secondhand.

Image: DJI Mavic Pro

DJI Mavic Pro

Mavic Pro 2

I sold my Mavic Pro when they released the Mavic Pro 2. It has a significantly better 20-megapixel camera with a 1-inch sensor, which suited me better for taking larger images for stock libraries.

It also has an f/2.8-11 variable aperture, which gives you the potential to be more creative with your aerial images.

The one potential downside is that when facing the horizon, the gimbal doesn’t rotate the camera so you can capture vertical images like you can with the Mavic.

Read a full review of the Mavic Pro 2 here.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

The Mavic 2 drone.

Mavic 2 Zoom

The Mavic 2 Zoom came out at the same time as the Mavic Pro. Its main advantage over the Pro 2 is the ability to zoom the camera. Combined with movement, you can use this to achieve the dolly zoom effect. The downside is that its camera is only 12-megapixel, and the aperture is f2.8-3.8.

Read a review of the Mavic 2 Zoom here.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

DJI Mavic 2 Zoom

Mavic Mini

The Mavic Mini is a very small and light drone with impressive specifications. The Mavic Mini is the cheapest I’ve covered and would be ideal for many people wanting to take aerial images as they travel. It has a 12-megapixel camera. Unlike the others listed, it is only capable of taking images in JPG format for stills.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

DJI Mavic Mini

Also, read a review of the DJI Spark here, and the Mavic Air here.

What else do I need to consider?

Is your device up to scratch? To fly a DJI drone, you’ll need the DJI GO app on your smartphone or on a tablet.

Is your device good enough to support the latest app? You’ll need to look into this before you get started.

A Photographer's Guide to Buying a Drone

Make sure your phone or tablet is powerful enough to run the drone app.

How will you edit your image?

If you’re a dPS regular reader, no doubt you’ll know all about the various ways you can post-process your images. I use Adobe Lightroom and occasionally Adobe Photoshop to edit my JPG and DNG drone images.

Insurance

UAVs are an expensive investment. Make sure that your camera insurance or home contents insurance adequately covers your new kit.

DJI have their own insurance product – DJI care. Whichever option you go for, make sure you understand the limits of the policies, so you don’t get caught out.

Flying legally

This is very important. You don’t want to find yourself on the wrong side of the law, especially if you take your drone overseas.

It’s good to learn all the rules when you’re considering buying one or while you’re waiting for it to arrive.

Rules differ from country to country, region to region, so always make sure you know the correct laws to fly at your destination.

For example, in Australia, you’ll need permission to fly a drone in a National Park in the state of New South Wales, but over the border in Queensland, you do not.

Image: Early morning view of South Stradbroke Island, Queensland. DJI Mavic.

Early morning view of South Stradbroke Island, Queensland. DJI Mavic.

Flying safely

Investing time learning the rules and regulations is just one part of things. You also need to learn to fly safely.

A major part of this is learning to identify hazards, whether they be trees, powerlines, buildings, weather, or as I found out once, a swooping bird in my local park.

It’s always a good idea to have a pre-flight and post-flight-check routine in place.

Conclusion

Buying a drone is a fantastic way of adding new viewpoints to your photography. The latest offerings from companies such as DJI have given photographers the ability to capture scenes that were not possible a few years ago without chartering a plane or helicopter.

However, there are many things to consider before you dive in. Consider what you want to use the images for, which model to buy, and how to edit your images. You also need to learn how to fly safely and legally.

I hope this photographer’s guide to buying a drone has been helpful if you are currently looking at adding a drone to your photography kit.

What other considerations do you think are important when considering buying a drone? Tell us below.

 

The post A Photographer’s Guide to Buying a Drone – Getting it Right the First Time appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Matt Murray.


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Is the Nikon D780 right for you?

02 Mar

Is the D780 right for you?

Everyone has different requirements for cameras; what might be perfect for one person could be unworkable for another. With this in mind, we’ve taken a look at some common photographic use-cases to see how well we think the Nikon D780 will work for them. From travel to portraits, check out our handy guide to see how Nikon’s latest DSLR could stack up for the types of photography you enjoy.

All images taken by Dan Bracaglia

Travel

Image: Processed from Raw | ISO 100 | 1/250 sec | F2.8 | Nikon AF-D 50mm F1.8

Life on the road leaves little room for error when it comes to gear, so it’s best to have a reliable camera at your side. With a rugged, weather-sealed body, solid battery life and the addition of USB charging, the D780 should make for a trusty companion. It produces great JPEGs right out of camera, and sharing them right away is easy thanks to the camera’s Bluetooth and Wi-Fi connectivity.

We’ll admit though, there are smaller options out there, including Nikon’s own Z6 mirrorless camera, and there are even smaller options yet if you don’t need a full-frame sensor. But overall, the D780 is a great travel camera, especially when paired with one of many compact-yet-excellent F-mount lenses.

Video

The D780 makes a strong case for itself as a video camera. It comes with high-quality, oversampled 4K footage and great video autofocus, slow-motion Full HD capture, and retains separate settings for both stills and video – especially handy for shooters that dabble in both disciplines. There’s plenty of room for both headphone and microphone sockets, and the camera can output a 10-bit Log signal to an external recorder over HDMI. There’s focus peaking if you don’t want to rely on autofocus, and zebra warnings will help you control your exposure.

Perhaps the biggest knock against the D780 is simply due to its DSLR design. There’s no electronic viewfinder option, and since the mirror has to flip up to shoot video, you cannot use the optical viewfinder either. There’s also no in-body image stabilization, but a stabilized lens or enabling the camera’s electronic stabilization can smooth your footage out. Lastly, the tilting screen mechanism isn’t as versatile as a fully articulating one for those who want to start vlogging.

In the end, DSLR cameras face stiff competition in general from mirrorless cameras when it comes to video. But for users who have a good collection of F-mount glass, or those who want to use older AF-D lenses for video and get good autofocus, the D780 is your best bet.

Family and moments

Image: Out-of-camera JPEG | ISO 5000 | 1/160 sec | F2.8 | Nikon 35mm F2 D

Capturing fleeting moments of those you hold most dear can be a tricky task; the camera in question has to just work. Thankfully, the D780 has two great autofocus systems that aren’t likely to let you down. You get face-detection through the optical viewfinder and eye detection when you’re using the rear screen. Finally, nice JPEGs and easy sharing mean you can send that keeper of Aunt Betty laughing uncontrollably to her phone while the tears are still streaming down her face.

There’s not much to count against the D780 in this situation, though we’d recommend you dial down the high ISO noise reduction on the camera a bit. And there’s no denying that smaller, lighter options are available on the market that you may be more willing to bring along with you, wherever you go.

Landscape

Image: Processed from Raw | ISO 5600 | 1/160 sec | F5.6| Nikon 35mm F2 D

The D780’s 24-megapixel chip isn’t the highest resolution around, but it offers excellent dynamic range and solid detail capture if you’re not printing wall-sized posters. For hardcore wilderness photographers, the D780’s weather-sealing could be handy if inclement weather strikes, and the abundant controls should be pretty easy to operate with gloves. Excellent battery life means that you basically don’t have to worry about running out of juice, but if you do want to worry about it, remember you can top up with the camera’s USB-C port.

Unlike some competitors, the D780 doesn’t have any sort of resolution-boosting sensor-shift mode, but there’s a built-in focus stacking feature that could be handy. The tilting screen will make it easy to work from a tripod, and you can rely on the autofocus in pretty much any lighting conditions. There is some risk of shutter shock with longer lenses and slower shutter speeds, so be sure to enable the ‘Quiet’ shutter-release mode and the electronic front-curtain shutter in the menus if you find it to be a problem.

Portraits

Image: Converted from Raw | ISO 100 | 1/320 sec | F5.6 | Nikon 50mm F1.8 D

The D780 is an excellent choice of camera to capture the essence of others. There are tons of great lenses to choose from, and the JPEG engine does a great job capturing skin tones. The camera’s updated autofocus should also be accurate whether you’re using either the optical finder or the rear screen, but be aware that you only get eye detect on the latter and you could need to calibrate your lenses for the former to get the best results.

Keep in mind that, being a DSLR, the D780 is fairly sizable and could look ‘professional’ to some subjects and intimidating to others. High-end studio portraitists may also wish for more resolution, but we think the D780’s 24 megapixels will serve most users just fine indeed.

Lifestyle and people

Image: Converted from Raw | ISO 3200 | 1/250 sec | F1.4 | Tamron 35mm F1.4

For users looking to up their Instagram game, a good lifestyle camera needs to offer abundantly better image quality than a smartphone – broadly speaking, the D780 absolutely does. If you want real bokeh, baby, you got real bokeh, baby. On the other hand, a lifestyle camera should be easy to have on you at all times. In this regard, the D780 is a pretty chunky option for those used to only carrying a smartphone. And, though we think it’s a handsomely designed camera, the retro-chic appearance of some competitors may be more attractive to you.

But back to image quality – the D780’s excellent JPEGs are great for immediate social sharing with Nikon’s solid Snapbridge app, though you can also tweak Raw files in-camera to get even better results. Excellent autofocus, especially in poor light, will only serve to broaden the situations in which you can get just the right shot. If you’re not against carrying a full-frame DSLR around with you, the D780 is a solid option for this type of photography.

Candid and street

Image: Converted from Raw | ISO 250 | 1/160 sec | F2.5 | Nikon 35mm F1.8G

Ah, street photographers – those who cherish the quiet, the discreet, the cool. It’s obvious that the D780 isn’t the most subtle, blend-in-to-the-background sort of camera around. But that doesn’t mean it hasn’t got plenty going for it in terms of capability.

The D780 is super responsive, so you can quickly adapt to changing situations with ease (and check your settings on the top LCD). The tilting touchscreen makes it easy to shoot from the hip, and if you’re the type of person who likes to share your photos with those you’ve just photographed, the Snapbridge app makes it easy to send off the camera’s excellent JPEGs right away.

If you do want to try to make the D780 as unobtrusive as possible, you can enable the ‘Quiet’ shutter (which is only slightly quieter), or if you’re not worried about rolling shutter artifacts, you can shoot using a fully silent electronic shutter in live view mode.

Sport, action and wildlife

Image: Converted from Raw | ISO 25600 | 1/640 sec | F2.8 | Nikon 70-200mm F2.8

When it comes to capturing sports and action, the D780 has a lot going for it. This isn’t too much of a surprise – the D700-series has historically been pretty well-suited for this sort of work, provided you don’t need super-fast burst speeds. The fact is, 7 fps through the viewfinder is fast enough for a lot of different sports, and the D780 has a deep, 100-frame buffer which clears quickly thanks to dual UHS-II memory cards. In other words, it’s rare that you’ll find yourself waiting for the camera. Supporting all this is great image quality in both JPEG and Raw and a deep catalog of F-mount telephoto glass.

This brings us to the autofocus system – the 51-point viewfinder system is absolutely excellent in terms of reliability, but there’s no getting around the fact that the spread across the frame is pretty limiting these days.

Many competing mirrorless cameras have as near-as-makes-no-difference 100% autofocus coverage in their electronic viewfinders, which can be compositionally freeing. You can get a similar type of system on the D780 if you use the rear screen, but that can make for an unwieldy setup with large or heavy lenses. Ergonomically, we’d also love to see an AF joystick for moving the AF point around in the viewfinder – the eight-way directional pad is serviceable, but not ideal.

Weddings and events

Image: Out-of-camera JPEG | ISO 14400 | 1/320 sec | F2.8 | Nikon 85mm F1.8G

Being a very well-rounded camera, the D780 is a great choice for a wedding and event photographer. It’s got solid image quality in all lighting conditions, its 24MP of resolution tends to be plenty without eating up all your drive space, it’s rugged, has great battery life and dual card slots for instant backup of those irreplaceable moments.

The viewfinder autofocus system also works extremely well in low light, and though the eye-detection option in live view shooting is great, it’s not available in the viewfinder and live view tracking in general isn’t super reliable as light levels drop. But really, we’re nitpicking here. The D750 was already a camera long-favored by wedding and event shooters; the D780 should perform even better.

Is the D780 right for you?

There we have it – the D780 is an incredibly well-rounded camera that, if not the absolute best camera for any one of these use-cases, will at least perform very well across most photographic disciplines.

But what do you think? Is there a specific type of photography you dabble in that we don’t mention here? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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4 Tips to Choose the Right Lens for your Photography

05 Feb

The post 4 Tips to Choose the Right Lens for your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.

tips-to-choose-the-right-lens-in-photography

A few years ago, I came across the term ‘gear lust.’ Suddenly all those feelings of wanting, dreaming, and lusting over the latest and greatest lens and cameras that I would see in glossy magazines and catalogs were categorized as a known condition. How could I choose the right lens to use and buy for my photography when there were so many options out there?

Did I really need to choose? Couldn’t I just buy everything and make myself a happy camper?

Pretty soon, I came crashing down to earth and realized that buying every single lens out there was not practical and near impossible given my finances and photography budget.

So, I learned fairly quickly how to understand my photographic needs and choose a lens that best fits that need – from a usability, functionality and budget perspective.

DPS Choosing The Right Lens Karthika Gupta

Here are some tips on how you can choose the right lens that works for you, based on your photography style, needs, and budget. Remember, these are all very individualistic, so make sure you are honest when answering these questions.

1. Understand your photography style

When we are starting out as photographers, there is a need to master everything. And rightfully so.

The early stages of learning any art form is one of exploration, and we should try everything out there.

When I first started, I was exploring different genres and editing styles. I explored moody to black and white, to light and airy, and everything in between.

I soon found myself gravitating towards a light bright airy style. This meant photographing wide open and using a lot of natural light in my photos. I realized that my lens needed to be fast to focus and let me photograph wide open at apertures of around f/1.2 through f/2.

These needs saw me gravitating towards prime lenses. I found that they worked well for me in post-processing for the style that I wanted to focus on too.

So I invested in the Canon 50mm f/1.2 L and a Canon 24-70mm f/2.8 L. Now, 9 years later, I still have both of these lenses and use them consistently.

Even though my genre and specialization have changed slightly, my photography style has remained fairly consistent. So these lenses have served me well.

DPS Choosing The Right Lens Karthika Gupta

Taken with my beloved 50mm f/1.2

So, take the time to understand what photography style works for you and then try out different lenses. Do you prefer working with zoom lens, or are primes more your style?

You will find that choosing the right lens for your style of photography becomes much easier when you take the time to understand what your photography style is rather than buying something and then adjusting your style to match the gear you have.

DPS Choosing The Right Lens 24-70mm Karthika Gupta

My 24-70mm f/2.8 lives on my camera 80% of the time. This is the lens I choose in a giffy because I know it gives me what I am looking for.

2. Understand your photography needs

When I first started photography, I considered myself a family and lifestyle photographer. Soon I added newborn and weddings into the mix.

I quickly realized that while I love kids, I just could not handle newborn photos. Newborn shoots take a lot of time and a lot of patience, waiting on babies to be cooperative.

However, I found my sweet spot with weddings and lifestyle photos.

As I tried out different lenses for this type of work, I quickly realized that speed and wide angles were important for family photos and weddings. With weddings, I often found myself in the back of the room, taking photos of the couple at the altar or interacting with family and loved ones. As I did not want to intrude on these special moments, I found that a lens with a good zoom was pertinent.

With this realization, I invested in the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 because this lens had everything I was looking for – the zoom and speed.

DPS Choosing The Right Lens Karthika Gupta

Taken with the 70-200mm f/2.8 shot – I will love this lens till the day I die!

DPS Choosing The Right Lens 70-200mm Karthika Gupta

Choosing the right lens sometimes is like choosing your favorite child! You cannot voice it publicly but you know which one is the favorite!

I also found myself renting the Canon 35mm f/1.4 for larger weddings to take wide-angle photos. My second shooter would use this lens to get a different angle as we photographed side-by-side.

So, take the time to understand your photography needs. Do you want to focus on close-up portraits or do you want wide-angle photos of architecture? Perhaps you want to experiment with street photography? Do you want to do more macro or wildlife photos?

Choosing the right lens will become a breeze when you really narrow down what your photography needs are.

DPS Choosing The Right Lens Karthika Gupta

3. Acknowledge your budget

If you have to pick only one lens because of your budget, understand that it is perfectly okay, and even the top photographers do that occasionally. The amount of gear you own does not equate to skill and proficiency.

For my very first photoshoot, I rented a Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 lens and used that with my Canon 24-70mm f/2.8. I had no idea what I was doing other than the fact that I had read that the nifty-fifty was the best thing since sliced bread!

I hated that lens and couldn’t wait to return it. Fast forward a few years, and once I had the understanding and the budget, I invested in the L version of the 50mm. It is now my favorite lens for portraits of any kind. The bokeh from this lens is pure magic!

DPS Choosing The Right Lens Canon 24-70 Karthika Gupta

My 24-70mm f/2.8 is almost 9 years old. It has been readjusted multiple times by Canon Professional Services, but I will never get rid of it. It delivers day-in and day-out!

You can get creative with what you have.

Change up your angle. Change up the focal length by moving closer or backing out.

No matter what the limitations, for the most part, you can make it work.

4. Find the happy match between lens and photographer

This is the million-dollar question, isn’t it? With so many choices out there, what lens should you choose, and when? Investing in camera gear should always be a healthy balance between need, wants, and budget. The last thing you want is a closet full of gear that you never use.

Rent or borrow a lens that interests you so you can test it out for yourself first before outlaying a big amount of money on something that may not suit your needs.

An example of this is the Sigma 135mm f1.8 I was interested in buying. It is an incredible lens. I was so tempted to buy it having heard about its awesomeness from all my photographer friends. However, when I had a chance to test it out, I realized that I get a lot of the same results from my 70-200mm f2.8 for the way I was using it. So it would have been an unnecessary addition to my gear.

DPS Choosing The Right Lens Sigma 135mm Karthika Gupta

Selling off your unwanted gear is always an option, but it’s better to get it right to start with. Remember, needs and styles constantly change, and that is fairly common among photographers. That way, if you find yourself needing the same lens down the road, you can always keep using what you have or upgrade to a newer version.

As I slowly move away from weddings and more towards travel and culture, my needs have changed. I want to travel light and wanted the most bang for the gear I lug halfway around the world. Hence, I choose lenses that fit that need.

I’ve been lucky, because the lenses I chose for my initial needs, still suit my new needs. My go-to lenses are the 24-70mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.2 and 70-200mm f/2.8. I find that this combination works the best for travel portraits, wide-angle landscapes as well as the occasional wildlife photos.

Good gear is essential for a good photographer, but expensive gear does not make a good photographer.

If you only have a kit lens and cannot afford anything else, that’s perfectly okay. Master your craft with what you have, and when the time is right, choose the right lens based on what you need and what you can afford, not on what is the latest/coolest gadget on the market.

You may also like: 

Photography Gear You Will Need for Different Types of Photo Shoots

Do you have any other tips to choose the right lens for your photography? If so, please share in the comments section.

The post 4 Tips to Choose the Right Lens for your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.


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Fujifilm X-T3 vs X-Pro3: Which one’s right for me?

03 Feb

Fujifilm X-Pro3 vs X-T3: a look at the differences (and what they mean)

At a fundamental level, the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-Pro3 have a lot of hardware in common but, unlike their predecessors, they’re radically different cameras to use. We’re going to have a look at the differences and what it means when you’re out taking photos with them.

At heart, both are 26MP X-Trans cameras that can shoot at up to 11fps with their mechanical shutters and 30fps in a cropped e-shutter mode. But the hardware differences between the models quickly add up to mean that they’d appeal to very different people and very different styles of shooting. Which one are you?

Viewfinder

The most obvious distinction between the two models is their viewfinders. Both have 3.69M dot OLED viewfinder panels, with the X-T3 able to offer a higher, 0.75x magnification (vs 0.66x on the Pro3).

But the X-Pro series’ defining feature is its hybrid viewfinder that can be also has an optical mode. This is one of the defining features of the X-Pro range: a viewfinder that can be used as a fully electronic finder or an optical finder with an electronic display of shooting parameters and frame guides projected into it.

Viewfinder (optical)

Some people find that optical finders let you feel a more immediate connection to the scene you’re shooting, and the electronic mode means it can also operate essentially like an X-T3 (albeit with lower magnification, presumably as a result of the more complex optics).

For those users who do want the optical viewfinder, it’s worth noting that it’s not as flexible as the one in the previous X-Pro models. Those included a magnifying lens that slid into place when you mounts a longer lens, meaning it could accommodate both wide and moderately long lenses, whereas the Pro3 optical finder can’t show framing guides any wider than 35mm equiv, and ends up using a very small area of the finder with lenses beyond 75mm equiv.

Screen

Having said that the hybrid viewfinder was one of the defining features of the X-Pro series, the rear screen arrangement has become a similarly distinctive feature for the X-Pro3.

Its main rear screen tilts up so that it faces in towards the camera. This means it can’t be used for composing photos with the camera held out in front of you, forcing you to either use the viewfinder or to fold it out to shoot from waist level (something you couldn’t do with the older X-Pros). This very much encourages you to shoot one way or the other, strong arming you into using the features that make the camera different to its peers.

The X-T3 plays with a straight bat: it has a rear LCD that tilts up for waist-level shooting, down for overhead shooting and has a second hinge that lets you shoot portrait orientation images at low angles, too. The viewfinder eyecup obscures the tilted-up screen a little more than occurs on the X-Pro3 but overall, the X-T3 approach is certainly the more practical. But then, practicality (and whether ‘practical’ is always the paramount consideration) is the underlying story of the relationship between these two cameras.

Sub-monitor

While we’re on the subject of rear screens, we’re also going to look at one of the things you’re likely to have noticed first: the X-Pro 3’s rear ‘sub-monitor’ display. We put it last partly because it arguably adds the least functional benefit to the X-Pro3, but it’s also perhaps emblematic of the camera’s entire philosophy and potential appeal.

Yes, it can be used to display the camera’s current shooting settings but, unless you’ve pushed all the dial functions from their dedicated controls to the fiddly command dials, you can see most settings just by glancing at the dial positions. Equally, how often do you scrutinize a small panel on the back of a camera you’re mainly shooting through the viewfinder of?

That film-carton display is kinda cool, isn’t it? Your response to that question probably answers whether the X-Pro3 is right for you

Instead, the rear panel’s primary role is to show which film simulation you’re using, in the style of the flap of a film carton, slotted onto the back of a film camera. From a functional point of view it’s almost entirely pointless. But if you aren’t Mr Spock, you’ll recognize that dispassionate analysis is meaningless when it comes to human reactions.

A camera is a creative tool and, as a result, is an emotional purchase as much as a rational one. Sure, that film-carton display doesn’t really do much, but it’s kinda cool, isn’t it? Your response to that question is probably the answer to whether the X-Pro3 is right for you.

All the latest processing

The X-Pro3 has a series of image processing options that aren’t available on the X-T3. The Classic Neg Film Simulation mode, variable grain size and Color Chrome Effect Blue are all currently exclusive to the X-Pro3 and are not listed in the announcements of forthcoming X-T3 updates. It’s the same story with the X-Pro3’s multi-shot HDR mode.

The latest Autofocus

With the recent release of Firmware V2.30 for the X-T3, it gains the latest Face/Eye performance and user interface implementation we first saw on the X-Pro3.

Now, when Face Detection find a face in your scene, you can push the joystick in to over-ride it and toggles between face detection and your previously chosen AF point. If you set a button to engage Face Selection mode, you can use the joystick choose which face to focus on (or press to toggle to your previously chosen point). We’re not sure why ‘Face Selection’ isn’t the standard behavior, but this newer approach is a huge improvement because you can leave face detection turned on, with an easy way to opt-out, when you want.

This implementation still isn’t quite as slick as it could be (we can’t see a reason why the ‘Face Selection’ mode isn’t the full-time behavior of the camera’s Face/Eye AF system, but it’s a big step forward compared to the way the X-T3 previously functioned.

Autofocus

For the most part there’s little to choose between the X-T3 and X-Pro3 in terms of autofocus: they have similar underlying hardware and the X-T3 is supposed to be getting an update to the latest AF behavior in a firmware update.

The difference when you use the cameras is simply a knock-on effect of how the screens and viewfinders work. As mentioned on the previous slide, the both cameras now have better integration of their Eye-AF features, but the X-Pro3 can only use Face and Eye detection in EVF mode or when you’ve got the rear screen folded out: it’s not available through the optical finder.

The optical finder can also make it a little difficult to know where the camera is going to focus. Parallax error between the viewfinder and lens positions mean you sometimes have to estimate where your chosen AF point is, relative to the thing you can see through the optical finder. The tools provided to help you with this estimation are arguably a little less helpful than on previous X-Pro models. But this ambiguity and need to estimate are may, to some people, be part of the appeal of the X-Pro3 experience.

Video features

The X-T3 is by far the better video camera of the pair. But that’s not much of a surprise, since it’s one of the best-specced stills/video cameras on the market at present and probably the best for the money.

Both cameras will happily shoot both DCI and UHD 4K video at up to 30p, but the X-T3 goes way beyond this. It can shoot 4K/60p footage at up to 400Mbps for up to 20 minutes, and its 30p capture will typically record for 30 minutes (as compared to around 15 on the Pro3).

The X-T3 also has 10-bit internal capture, meaning that its F-Log footage is much more malleable than the 8-bit capture of the X-Pro3. And, if you don’t want to have to process F-Log footage – something that’s not a particular chore, given Fujifilm’s provision of a series of LUTs to convert the footage to something more finished – the X-T3 can shoot Hybrid Log Gamma, the industry-standard ready-to-view HDR format.

Fujifilm has also said developed a USB control protocol for the X-T3, specifically so that the camera can be operated from the controls on popular brands of gimbals.

The X-Pro3 is a remarkable competent video camera but most of its appeal is likely to be to stills photographers. If you’ve any real interest in video, the X-T3 is the clear choice.

Build and appearance

Both cameras are well built, with weather-sealed, primarily metal construction. The dials on both cameras aren’t perhaps as solid-feeling as their body construction, but they both end up feeling like premium products.

They’re both good-looking cameras, too. Some people will, no doubt, see the dedicated shutter speed and ISO dials as a throwback design aesthetic gone too far (and there are time using the combined shutter/ISO dial on the X-Pro3 that we feel that ourselves), but a lot of people will see them as classically stylish and functional.

A sense of style

Of course the X-Pro3 works a little harder on both aspects of its classic chic looks. Its design is unmistakably rangefinder-esque and, particularly in its ‘Dura’ coated finishes, its titanium construction is pretty swish.

And, just like film carton display, there are some people who will find an emotional resonance in seeing the words ‘Made in Japan’ on the base of the camera. The X-T3 doesn’t make the same claim, but it seems every bit as well built as the Japan-made X-T2. So again, it’s perhaps more of an emotional pull than an objective benefit.

Conclusion

Does the X-Pro3 speak to you? The answer to that question is probably more valuable than any analysis we can offer.

We nearly wrote a use-case based assessment but concluded the X-T3 is more practical in just about every respect, for most kinds of photography. But that’s probably just an indication that you’re using the wrong analytical tool. Sure, the X-T3 is objectively better suited to most types of photography than the X-Pro3 (with the possible exception of street shooting), but that’s not the point.

This is a head versus heart decision, and the heart wants what the heart wants

If the X-Pro3 feels distinctive, individual or special to you, then it’ll end up meaning more to you, and may prompt you to go out shooting with it more often. Ultimately, this is a head versus heart decision, and the heart wants what the heart wants.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Which Sony RX100 is right for you?

14 Dec

Introduction

There have now been eight variants of the RX100 series, with at least seven of them still considered to be ‘current’ models. This variety of choice and the similarity of the names can make them difficult to tell apart, or choose between, so we’re going to look at the differences.

If you’re not fussed with the details and just want to know which model is best for what, feel free to skip to the conclusion: Click here on desktop, or tap here on mobile.

Lenses

The biggest differences are the lenses: the first two versions were built around a 28-100mm equivalent lens with a bright maximum aperture at the wide end but one that’s much slower at the telephoto end.

The Mark III saw a move to a wider, shorter and much brighter lens: a 24-70mm equivalent zoom with F1.8-2.8 maximum aperture, bringing significant benefits in low light and allowing shallower depth-of-field than before.

Most recently, the Mark VI and Mark VII moved to slower but much more flexible 24-200mm equivalent zooms. This puts the RX100 into travel zoom territory.

Beyond this, we’ve tried to summarize the development of the series in terms of spec:

Price (MSRP) Lens Video AF Screen Viewfinder
RX100 $ 400 28-100mm
F1.8-4.9
1080p60
Line-skipping
Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ fixed None
RX100 II $ 600 28-100mm
F1.8-4.9
1080p60
Line-skipping
Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ tilting Optional 2.36M-dot
RX100 III $ 750 24-70mm
F1.8-2.8
1080p60 Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ tilting 1.44M-dot pop-up
RX100 IV $ 900 24-70mm
F1.8-2.8
4Kp30

Contrast Detect, 25-points 3″ tilting 2.36M-dot pop-up
RX100 V $ 850 24-70mm
F1.8-2.8
4Kp30

Phase Detect, 315-points 3″ tilting 2.36M-dot one-touch pop-up
RX100 VI $ 1000 24-200mm
F2.8-4.5
4Kp30

Phase Detect, 315-points 3″ tilting touch-enabled 2.36M-dot one-touch pop-up
RX100 VII $ 1200 24-200mm
F2.8-4.5
4Kp30 Phase Detect, 315-points 3″ tilting touch-enabled 2.36M-dot one-touch pop-up
A more complete comparison of these specifications may be found here.

Viewfinders

The RX100 II added the option to attach an external viewfinder, while for the Mark III Sony found the space to squeeze a pop-up viewfinder into the body. The resolution of the finder was updated in the Mark IV and the refresh rate increased in the Mark V(A) and VI. The Mark VI also saw the finder mechanism redesigned, so that it can be deployed or stowed with a single button press.

Video

The RX100 IV gained a Stacked CMOS sensor with memory built into the chip. This allowed much faster readout, allowing 4K video and an electronic shutter mode, widening the range of lighting conditions in which the camera’s wide apertures can be used. The IV, V and VI can also shoot High Frame Rate video at up to 1000 fps, taken from increasingly low res crops of the sensor then blown up to 1080p.

The small body of the camera limits its ability to dissipate heat. This sees 4K video capture limited to around 5 minutes. The cameras will also dull their rear screens to minimize heat build-up as they approach this limit, which can make outdoor video shooting difficult in warmer climes.

Autofocus

Of particular note is that the Mark VII inherits Sony’s ‘Real-time Tracking’ technology, which allows the camera to seamlessly transition from subject tracking to face-and-eye-detection on the fly, with very little input from the user. It’s powerful and simple, and is the first time on an RX100 that you don’t have to assign a separate button to initiate Eye AF. Here’s a video of it in action.

Sony RX100

Key specs:

  • 20MP 1″-type CMOS sensor
  • 28-100mm F1.8-4.9 zoom lens
  • 1080/60p video
  • 10fps burst shooting
  • CIPA rated to 330 shots per charge
  • 3″ fixed rear display
  • Slimmest RX100 of the line

The original RX100 was the first camera to put a relatively large 1″-type sensor into a camera you could consider pocketable, and it started a revolution. Today, not only do you have five 1″-sensor models from Sony, but you have multiple competitors from the likes of Canon and Panasonic, too (and, hopefully, Nikon at some point).

At the time of this writing, the RX100 can be had brand-new for $ 370, making it the cheapest 1″-sensor compact out there (the Canon G9 X Mark II is slightly more expensive still, but with a different feature set and even slimmer size). That makes it a great option for budget-conscious folks that still want to have a camera with them all the time. This model produces a bit softer and noisier JPEGs than the others, albeit not by much (image quality is largely determined by sensor size, common across all models). AF can be challenged in low light, particularly with low-contrast subjects like facial features, and the screen doesn’t tilt like it does with all subsequent RX100s, and there’s not even an option to add a viewfinder. But hey – that’s why it’s the cheapest.

The original RX100 is still available and is now comparatively inexpensive. However, once you’ve experienced things such as the better lenses, improved responsiveness, viewfinders, up-rated video and more attractive color rendering of the newer models, it’s hard to go back. We’d tend to recommend saving up a little bit more for at least the Mark III, since that way you get the full IQ advantage of that big sensor at more than just the wide-angle setting.

Sony RX100 II

Key updates:

  • New Bionz X image processor
  • Multi-function hot shoe for a flash or electronic viewfinder
  • 3″ tilting display (90 degrees up, 40 degrees down)
  • Wi-Fi built-in

The multi-function hot shoe, which could work with either an electronic viewfinder or external flashes, was only seen on the RX100 II.

For an extra $ 180, you can get the second RX100, which added an impressive number of new features without appreciably increasing exterior dimensions.

The RX100 II has the highest-rated battery life of all the models in the range (CIPA rated at 350 shots), so if you want to avoid carrying extra batteries around, this is likely the best bet. There’s a modest improvement in image quality, with more detail in low light JPEGs and less noise at the highest ISOs in Raw thanks to the BSI sensor. The RX100 II also has a multi-function hot shoe, which can be used for an external flash unit, or Sony’s grotesquely expensive FDA-EV1MK electronic viewfinder (at least it’s high quality – which it should be, for $ 450 MSRP). The LCD can tilt, and its at this point where Wi-Fi with NFC was introduced to the lineup. The Mark II was the last RX100 to have the 28-100mm zoom lens, so if you value the reach of this model over the speed or cost of later iterations, this is your best bet (or, of course, you can check out other manufacturers’ offerings).

If you can swing the extra cost and size – the Mark I is appreciably slimmer and lacks the hotshoe hump – the RX100 II offers quite a bit over the original model, with Wi-Fi in particular being a valuable addition. But it’s not as massive a leap as comes later in the series. If you can’t live without a viewfinder, it’s best to skip this model and go for the next one, which has a viewfinder built-in – but with some other changes that you may want to consider.

Sony RX100 III

Key updates:

  • New 24-70mm equiv. F1.8-2.8 zoom lens with built-in ND filter
  • Pop-up 1.44M-dot EVF
  • New Bionz X image processor
  • Full-sensor readout 1080/60p video with higher bitrate
  • 3″ screen now tilts 180 degrees for selfies
  • Battery life drops to 320 shots
  • Hot shoe eliminated
  • Improved customizable Function menu
  • Greatly improved JPEG engine

Sony’s innovative pop-up electronic viewfinder has found its way into a few other models, and we’re big fans.

The RX100 Mark III was a big jump for the series. As you can see at right, there’s a substantial list of changes (mostly improvements) that you get for an additional $ 100, with this model’s MSRP jumping to $ 650.

The biggest changes from a usability standpoint are the addition of an industry-first pop-up electronic viewfinder, which will make sunny-day shooting much easier, and a much needed custom Fn menu for quick access to most features. The new 24-70mm equiv. F1.8-2.8 lens is a showstopper as well, providing excellent optical performance and faster speed compared to the previous lens, though it gives up quite a bit of zoom reach. Whether you value the extra speed over the extra reach is a profoundly personal decision, but we often felt just a bit limited with this newer, though brighter, design. Note, too, that this is the beginning of some significant battery life reductions that only continue on later models.

Beyond that, there are some impressive leaps forward in image quality as well. Raw files are largely unchanged over the Mark II, but JPEGs throughout the ISO range are sharper (albeit with some haloing) and less noisy. Full-sensor readout for 1080/60p video results in much sharper footage with fewer artifacts.

Sony RX100 IV

Key updates:

  • New 20MP stacked BSI-CMOS sensor
  • 16fps continuous shooting
  • 4K/30p video with Log gamma
  • Up to 1000/960fps high-speed video
  • Up to 1/32000 sec exposures with electronic shutter
  • Pop-up 2.36M-dot EVF
  • Improved Auto ISO control
  • Eye AF-C and faster, more accurate AF performance
  • Battery life drops to 280 shots

The RX100 IV is shown here sandwiched between the III and V, which are virtually identical in terms of body and design elements.

The fourth iteration of the RX100 series brings the MSRP an additional $ 150 higher, to $ 800 (though it launched at $ 999). After three iterations of (albeit, slowly) evolving physical design, Sony has changed literally nothing about the outer design and handling with the IV.

On the inside, though, you get a new sensor that’s ‘stacked,’ meaning it has memory chips built right onto the back of the sensor itself, giving it incredibly fast read-out speed and buffering capabilities. Almost all the improvements you see at right, including some significant improvements to autofocus speed and low light accuracy, come from this industry-leading sensor technology.

Of course, with more power but the same battery, it’s no surprise that battery life dips to 280 shots, though you also get a significantly higher resolution electronic viewfinder, faster burst rates, and completely silent shooting. Usability improvements include instant 1:1 magnification of the AF point in playback, and best-practice Auto ISO control that allows you to more finely dial in how you want the camera to bias the ISO as related to shutter speed. Stills image quality isn’t drastically improved (though JPEGs are more intelligently sharpened), but 4K video and a host of video support tools like log gamma put it a significant step ahead of the Mark III if you’re looking for more of a hybrid shooting experience, as opposed to just stills.

Continuing on, we see the addition of new features like continuous Eye-AF and high frame rate video, which really start to overwhelm the RX100’s controls and menu more than ever before. The RX100 IV clearly epitomizes Sony’s new priorities regarding the RX100-series, with vast technological improvements under the hood, but only limited improvements to usability.

Sony RX100 V (A)

Key updates:

  • New ‘Front-end LSI’ processor for more speed
  • 24fps burst shooting with full autofocus and auto exposure
  • 315-point on-sensor phase detection autofocus system
  • Oversampled 4K video with almost no rolling shutter
  • HFR clips can now be twice as long as before
  • Battery life drops to 220 shots
  • Further JPEG Engine Improvements

The RX100 V brings a level of speed and AF performance never before seen in a compact camera.

The RX100 V received a mid-life refresh in July 2018, bringing the processor and menus from the RX100 VI and losing the ability to run in-camera apps. This article focuses on this “RX100M5A” variant.*

The V comes at a $ 100 premium over the previous model bringing us back to an MSRP of $ 1000, for which you get even more speed, even better 4K video, and a phase detection AF system that is the most advanced in its class.

The RX100 V offers little image quality advantage over the RX100 IV, but 4K video, now oversampled from 5.5K, offers greater detail, though the significant reduction in rolling shutter in 4K is going to offer the biggest benefit to your footage.

Whichever you choose, be aware of the existence of two versions of the RX100 V and make sure you’re getting the one you want.

This is definitely a camera for speed freaks (not a criticism). 24 fps burst shooting with autofocus tracking and Eye AF is a first for the industry, helping you nail the decisive moment. The doubling in length of high frame rate video clips makes them eminently more usable. For many of us, though, there’s just more speed than we even knew what to do with.

The update to V ‘A’ status brings better-organized menus and a custom ‘My Menu’ tab, which make it somewhat easier to cope with the camera’s extensive feature set. Sadly, the camera doesn’t gains the Mark VI’s touchscreen, so it remains an astonishingly able camera with a control system that works best when you point and shoot. It’s probably the world’s best point-and-shoot, but it’s hard not to look jealously at the more hands-on control systems on most of its rivals and imagine how easily it could be the world’s best enthusiast compact.

Ultimately, though, there’s no other camera that offers such impressive AF, such good video and such good image quality in such a small package.

*You may be able to find an original Mark V at a lower price for a while. This lacks the improved AF performance, updated menus and JPEG color of the Mark VI, but has the ability to install in-camera apps, such as the popular intervalometer app. Whichever you choose, be aware of the existence of two versions of the RX100 V and make sure you’re getting the one you want.

RX100 VI

Key updates:

  • 24-200mm equivalent zoom
  • F2.8-4.5 maximum aperture
  • Touchscreen control of AF point
  • SIngle-press EVF release/close
  • Bluetooth for location updates from smartphone
  • Battery life improves to 240 shots
  • Further JPEG Engine Improvements

The RX100 VI sees the camera gain a longer but slower lens to become an excellent travel companion.

The RX100 VI is the most radical camera in the series, arguably since its introduction. The adoption of a much longer lens significantly expands the types of photo you can take, making it an excellent travel camera. The trade-off is that the lens has become slower to keep the camera down to essentially the same size as the others in the series.

As well as the lens, the Mark VI also gains a touchscreen for AF point positioning and control during playback. The viewfinder mechanism has also been revised so that it can now be deployed or stowed with a single click. Both of these are distinct ergonomic improvements and there are further strides forward in operability with the addition of Sony’s latest menu system. This brings a more comprehensible structure and a custom ‘My Menu’ tab, for gaining quick access to the features you want.

Arguably the world’s best travel camera

The camera’s underlying performance is superb. The autofocus is hugely impressive (though it begins to struggle as light levels fall), the 4K video is highly detailed and has virtually no rolling shutter and the JPEG color rendering is the best yet. We were also impressed with the lens quality, given its ambitious range and reasonably fast aperture range. We still feel the user interface doesn’t expect you to take too much control over the settings but this makes more sense if you’re traveling and want to capture the moment, rather than intentionally devoting time to photography.

The costs of the new lens are twofold: its slower maximum aperture means it can’t capture as much light in low light situations, which means noisier images. These’s also no ND filter in the lens, which would let you use wider apertures for shallower depth-of-field or longer shutter speeds typically used for video, in bright light.

Overall, then, the RX100 VI is arguably the world’s best travel camera. It’s expensive, for sure, but nothing else can match its combination of size, lens range, image quality, AF and movie capability.

RX100 VII

Key updates:

  • 24-200mm equiv. zoom with F2.8-4.5 maximum aperture
  • Real-time Tracking AF for seamless face-and-eye detect
  • Blackout-free bursts at 20fps
  • Microphone socket added
  • Battery life now up to 260 shots
  • Digital + lens-based stabilization for very smooth video

The RX100 VII is a refinement of the previous model, with better autofocus, and blackout-free burst shooting, but at a slightly lower 20fps.

The RX100 VII, the series’ latest model, is the most capable pocket camera ever made. While it inherits much of what made up the Mark VI, Sony’s found room to include some pretty dramatic improvements.

The most significant of these is the inclusion of a new type of tracking autofocus, which transitions seamlessly from incredibly tenacious tracking of any subject, to face and eye detection on people, with little-to-no input from the user. It’s powerful, simple, effective, and simply the best autofocus implementation on the market today.

The RX100 VII is the most capable pocket camera ever made

An updated processor also improves 4K video capture, as the camera is now capable of combined digital and lens-based stabilization. This crops your video in slightly, so you don’t get quite as wide an angle as before, but the extra stability is welcome. A newly added microphone socket will make it easier to get better quality audio as well.

And though burst shooting has actually slowed a bit, at 20fps instead of 24fps on the Mark VI, it now comes ‘blackout-free.’ This means you continue to see a fluid, live feed of your subject while shooting 20fps bursts. It makes following fast-moving subjects much easier.

The same compromises the previous model made are present in this model as well, though, and these include a usefully long lens that is hampered a bit by a slower maximum aperture, and a lack of any built-in ND filter that would be handy for video. The menus are still dense, and there’s still some overall operational lag. On the plus side, battery life has increased a bit, but you’ll likely still want to carry a spare.

What’s the right RX100 for you?

Now, the important part. Which one is a fit for whom?

With the release of the Mark VI and Mark VII, it almost becomes easier to make sense of the sprawling RX100 series. Now you can choose a camera with a long, slower lens or ones with a short, fast lens: there’s less sense in buying the short but increasingly slow lens models that started the lineup.

RX100 and RX100 II

With this in mind, we’d probably only recommend the original RX100 Mark I and II if your budget absolutely won’t stretch further. The latest versions have made so many improvements: in terms of JPEG quality, AF performance and video, and with the addition of useful features like the built-in viewfinders, Wi-Fi… The benefits of saving up for the faster lens of the Mark III, or rivals from Canon and Panasonic are, we reckon, worth it.

RX100 III – For the budget stills shooter

The Mark III would be our choice for an entry-level model RX100. It was the first in the series to gain the short, fast 24-70mm equivalent lens. Its F1.8-2.8 maximum aperture means you get the full advantage of that nice big sensor when you’re zoomed-in, rather than just at wide-angle. The Mark III has a lower-resolution viewfinder than newer models, and can’t shoot 4K video, but its image quality is pretty much a match for them, especially if you shoot Raw. Since this camera came out, though, Canon has introduced the PowerShot G5 X Mark II, which houses a similar sensor, more versatile lens and a similar pop-up electronic viewfinder in a body that handles better and has a friendlier interface. It’s also around $ 150 more expensive at the time of this writing, but we feel its worth the extra cash, overall.

RX100 IV – Stuck in the middle?

The RX100 IV falls into a similar trap to the first two models: once you’ve seen what can be done with newer technology, the more limited version might not make sense. It gains 4K video and a higher-res viewfinder over the Mark III but, although you’re paying for a more advanced Stacked CMOS sensor, the IV doesn’t have the phase detection autofocus or processing power to make the most of it. We’d either suggest saving up for the Mark V or looking closely at the Mk III, Canon’s G5X II or Panasonic’s LX10.

RX100 VI – For the world traveler

The RX100 VI, with its travel-zoom-territory 24-200mm equivalent lens, is a great choice for travel photography. Its maximum aperture of F2.8-4.5 means it’s pretty flexible, though it could be limiting for dim interiors and nighttime shooting. While its autofocus system isn’t quite as capable as the newer Mark VII, it’s perfectly fine for general use. Its 4K video capture is solid (the lack of an ND filter could be problematic though), and the Wi-Fi system means it’s easy to get images onto your phone and off onto the web. In the end, we’d recommend getting the Mark VI and saving a few bucks over the very latest model if you don’t need the absolute best autofocus performance or the most stable 4K video capture.

RX100 V (A), and RX100 VII – Ultimate capability, but for different things

The updated ‘A’ version of the already impressive RX100 V looks extremely promising. Its quiet introduction sees the camera creep back up to its launch-date MSRP but the benefits of the improved menus and better JPEG color add to what is already a highly capable camera. Updated AF algorithms should further improve things. We still don’t think it’s as engaging to use as some of its rivals but none of them can match the speed, AF performance or 4K quality of the Sony.

At which point you have to choose between the low-light capability of the RX100 V (A) or the greater flexibility of the RX100 VII’s longer lens. The V has a built-in ND filter, which will be useful for video shooters, while the VII has a touchscreen and quicker-to-use EVF mechanism. But it’s the lenses that should decide it for you.

It all comes down to what kind of photography you expect to do

The RX100 V and VII are both fast-shooting compacts that produce great photographs. They each have excellent autofocus and 4K video, though the VII has the edge in both cases thanks to its improved processing power. If you’ve decided the combination of price, performance, image quality and size is the one you want, it all comes down to what kind of photography you expect to do: the bright 24-70mm equiv zoom of the Mark V will shoot at any time, if those focal lengths work for your subject, whereas the 24-200mm equiv of the VII will shoot just about any subject, so long as there’s enough light. Which matters more to you?

Still can’t decide? Our Buying Guides are designed to help you find the perfect camera.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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SLC-2L-10: Left Brain / Right Brain

31 Oct

Photos by Sara Lando and David Hobby except where noted.

Just as most of us are either right- or left-handed, it is said that we all have a dominant side of our brain as well. Left-brained people are supposed to be more analytical and methodical, whereas right-brained people are more artistic and creative.

For most photographers, one of these two areas is probably a relative strength; the other a weakness. But ideally, you need the whole package. Which is something we were exploring earlier this month in Porto, Portugal. Read more »
Strobist

 
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How to Choose the Right Computer for Photo Editing

21 Aug

The post How to Choose the Right Computer for Photo Editing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

How to Choose the Right Computer for Photo Editing

Buying a new computer can be a minefield. There are so many models to choose from with wildly varying budgets. How do you get the best performance for your budget? Where should you invest your cash (and where can you save)?

This article is straight forward, jargon-free advice on what to think about when buying a computer for photo editing. If you are looking for an in-depth analysis, you are in the wrong place. If you are looking to upgrade your current computer, but are unsure of how to spend your cash wisely, then this article will be a great starting point.

Mac vs. PC

I didn’t want to open this up with something that can descend into arguments. Instead, I thought I’d start with the one topic that everyone can agree on (or not) – Mac vs. PC. Seriously though, I thought it best to get this out of the way first. I’m a Mac guy. I have been for years. I am heavily invested in Apple’s ecosystem, and it works best for me.

However, I will put it on record (and be held to it from this day forward), there is very little difference between Mac and PC. Software in the modern world is platform agnostic and very few programs are Mac-only or PC-only. The price difference is not always as large as people make out, and you will generally be invested in one platform or the other already.

I know there is the old argument that most creatives use Macs over PC, but this is outdated and not strictly true. My personal theory is that Mac products tend to look better (thanks to Johnny Ive) and creative people tend to like to surround themselves with beautiful objects. If you go into a high-end design office, Macs tend to fit with the aesthetic better, hence why we see more Macs in these situations.

Both platforms have their quirks. Both are capable of great results. With a similar spec and finish, there will be a similar price involved.

I am sure there will be some discussion in the comments about this, but I really want to leave this argument here. It is boring, and nobody will ever win. We are on the Internet, after all.

how-to-choose-the-right-computerfor-photo-editing

Yes, it’s expensive. Yes, the monitor stand costs more than most monitors. But if these are things you are worried about, this machine (the Mac Pro) is not for you.

Monitor first

Before you begin to look for a computer, invest in a monitor – and for goodness sake, calibrate it. As photographers, we concern ourselves with the best image quality we can achieve. If you are editing the image on a screen with a limited color range and that is way too bright, you will tend to be disappointed when you print your images. They simply will not match what you see on the screen. When looking for a new computer, it is easy get carried away in what processor to go for, or whether we should invest in a larger hard drive. But, surprisingly, a monitor can be, in many cases, an afterthought. It shouldn’t be.

When looking to buy a monitor, you should really aim for one with a wide color gamut and if you can afford it, go for an IPS panel.

Lastly, in terms of resolution, a 4K screen is great but comes with a higher price tag. My advice is color over resolution. 4k is nice, but it is not anywhere near as important as color consistency. I edit on a 2560 x 1440 monitor as when I was looking I could not get the consistency of color I wanted within budget in a 4K screen. I have never wished for more resolution yet.

Image: A high-quality monitor, correctly calibrated, will have the biggest impact on your images.

A high-quality monitor, correctly calibrated, will have the biggest impact on your images.

Laptop or Desktop

This is something that depends on your situation. Modern laptops are hugely powerful. The main thing that holds them back is the graphics card. However, with the rise of the external graphics card, this is starting to be negated.

Obviously, the benefit of a laptop is portability. Traveling with your laptop is great as you can edit whilst out and about. You can also get the images off your memory cards (always back them up before you format the card though). For me, as a wedding photographer, being able to import images into the computer whilst I get a break saves me time when I get home. I can also create a preview for the couple on the day of the wedding. This is something that is not possible with a standard PC or iMac. Also, when shooting multi-day music festivals, most outlets require a same-day turnaround of images. In this situation, a laptop is essential.

With modern laptops, the ability to have it transform into your desktop machine has never been easier. I have a 2018 13” MacBook Pro which, with the use of a dock, simply requires me to plug in one cable to connect it to my monitor and external hard drives and charge it. I have a fully-functioning desktop in seconds.

However, this portability comes at a financial cost. You will always pay more for a laptop than a similar specification desktop PC. If you have no need for the mobility advantages of a laptop, you can get a desktop with similar specs for less money.

What you should buy depends on your requirements and your budget. If your budget is small, I would always recommend a desktop PC, as you will get more bang for your buck.

how-to-choose-the-right-computerfor-photo-editing

Desktop or laptop? It depends on your needs.

Processor

The processor is the brain of your system. When looking at a computer for photo editing, the processor is where you need to be looking to max out as much as your budget can afford. The key thing to look for in processors is the cores. In simple terms, a processor is split into cores. Each core can work on a separate task, so therefore, the more cores you have, the more multi-tasking the computer can do (or the better its ability to split tasks down into smaller parts to complete it quicker).

Ideally, you want to be looking at a quad-core to a six-core processor. A quad-core processor hits this sweet spot of performance to price ratio, but if you can afford to upgrade to a six-core processor, you will see increased performance. After this, unless you are a particularly heavy user, you will see little benefit in more cores.

how-to-choose-the-right-computerfor-photo-editing

A processor is where you really need to max out when choosing a new computer.

RAM

This is where you may be surprised. If you are using your computer solely for editing photographs and you are not applying several layers and effects in Photoshop, you can easily get away with 8GB of RAM. If you want to push the boat out a little, or are planning on getting a camera with a huge megapixel count, such as the new 64MP Sony, you really need to push this to 16GB.

RAM tends to be one of the cheaper upgrades when configuring a computer. Whilst you may not be needing 16 or 32GB right now, as with all things computer-related, buy the best spec you can afford. This allows you to be happy with your computer for longer. RAM is one of the simple upgrade tasks to do yourself. However, note that in some computers, laptops especially, (yes, I’m looking at you Apple) it is not something that can be done after you have purchased the computer.

Graphics Card

Your graphics card (or GPU) is the thing that fools some people. For photography, you really do not need a hugely powerful graphics card. It is something that has one main purpose, which is running your monitor. Now if you are planning on running a dual monitor 4K setup, then it is worth investing a little in your graphics card, but unless you are planning on doing some hardcore gaming, you will not really notice the benefit of the high-end graphics cards in almost all photo editing situations.

When using certain photo editing tools, the graphics card will speed things up a little, but the price to performance ratio of a higher-end graphics card is not as beneficial as spending the money elsewhere, such as an upgrade to your processor.

Now, if you do video editing as well as photo editing, this is where you will see the benefit from a good quality graphics card. If you are doing any type of motion graphics on your videos, you will see an even bigger boost. This is where graphics cards will make a difference. If you are doing video work (or plan to) then you do need to allow some budget for a dedicated graphics card, or GPU if you are going down the laptop route.

Hard Drive

There are two types of hard drives: Solid State (also known as SSD) and a Hard Disk Drive (known as HDD). They work in different ways, both of which have advantages and disadvantages.

Hard Disk Drives have been around for years. Data is stored on a rotating platter, which is then accessed by a read/write head to access or write the data. Most hard drives spin at 5400 or 7200 rpm. Simply put, the faster the rpm, the faster the drive can read/write data. Because they have been around for so long, the cost is much lower than a Solid State Drive. This makes this type of drive ideal if you are looking for a large amount of storage. It also means computers with HDD drives tend to be cheaper.

Solid State Drives are much newer technology. You will be most used to them as the storage in your phone and tablet. They work via an inbuilt processor called a Controller that performs the tasks of reading and writing data. The better the quality of the Controller, the faster the drive. They are much faster than Hard Disk Drives, but have one major disadvantage – the price.

The cost per gigabyte of storage Is much greater on SSD drives. On average, it is up to five times more expensive. However, that is really the only downside. SSD drives are much faster, less noisy (an SSD drive has no moving parts, unlike an HDD) and generally a little tougher (the head on an HDD does not like being banged about).

How much faster? Well, on an average computer, the start-up time will generally be over four times faster with an SSD. Programs will load much quicker, and the whole experience just feels snappier.

This is one of those speed boosts that you will not necessarily miss until you have used an SSD-based system. Once you have experienced it, I guarantee, you will not want to go back from it. Upgrading to an SSD on your current computer will give you a great upgrade for relatively little money.

I would always recommend an SSD as your main hard drive and then using larger HDD drives for your storage, either internally or externally. This way, you will have the best of both worlds. If you can afford it, I would suggest a 1TB SSD drive, as this means you can keep current work on the SSD drive to feel the benefits. Then your archive can be kept on HDD to access when you need it.

You also need a backup strategy in place. If you haven’t, please do yourself a favor and read up on how to backup your photos. I would hate the thought of any of you crying over lost photos.

Image: Possibly the most boring photo ever put on DPS. Whilst they are not much to look at, an SSD d...

Possibly the most boring photo ever put on DPS. Whilst they are not much to look at, an SSD drive will give you a big speed boost.

Summary

I could now list some machines that are currently considered the best for photo editing. If you Google the phrase “best computer for photo editing 2019” you will find several lists. However, I don’t want to do that. Not least because if you are reading this 6 months after I wrote it, it will already be out of date. Instead, I thought I would leave you with the top 6 things to think about when choosing the right computer.

  1. Buy the best processor you can afford. The majority of the work for photo editing relies heavily on the processor. Depending on what machine you buy, RAM is something you can upgrade yourself cheaply in the future. If you can afford 16GB then go for it. Just make sure before you stick at 8GB to save some budget, you can upgrade it later.
  2. Go for an SSD, but don’t go crazy for size. Try to go for a 1TB drive, or if on a tighter budget, a 512GB drive. Then invest in a larger 7200RPM external drive for more space. This way you can get the speed benefits of an SSD for your current editing and keep your work stored on a still fast, but cheaper external drive. And pretty please, with a cherry on top, invest in a backup!
  3. Don’t buy a laptop if you’re not going to use your computer out and about. You can get much better value from a desktop. So, if you only edit at home, get the most power for your money.
  4. Invest in a decent monitor. Then invest in a calibration device. Then invest in your computer. A good, calibrated monitor will not only last you longer, but it will also make your photos look better. Not just to you, but to everyone else as well.
  5. Keep your eyes open for deals. These are usually highest when new models are coming out. If you are happy to invest some time searching, you can find some great bargains.
  6. Lastly, don’t be afraid of secondhand or refurb, especially if you are on a budget. I have purchased most of my equipment refurbished by Apple (and saved a lot of money). You can also save huge amounts of money buying secondhand. You can buy some slightly older equipment that will be perfectly adequate for a fraction of the price. For example, lots of gamers often update their graphics cards. You can then pick it up to boost your computer for a fraction of the retail price. Obviously, this method is not without some risks. However, it is a way to get great value for money if you’re on a tight budget.

Lastly to go back to the start, Mac or PC? It really doesn’t matter! Unless you can afford to buy a Mac. In which case, you should always buy a Mac! (Sorry PC fanboys and girls, I couldn’t resist. I await my roasting in the comments ?

 

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The post How to Choose the Right Computer for Photo Editing appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


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