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7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results)

25 Sep

The post 7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.

fall portrait photography tips

Autumn provides photographers with an abundance of colors and amazing light, which is why autumn is one of the best seasons for portrait photography. It offers up magical, moody, and even nostalgic photos like this one:

girl on a log in the fall

But while fall portrait photography can look amazing, capturing the best shots isn’t always easy. Yes, fall backgrounds look awesome and fall light is breathtaking, but you shouldn’t just aim your camera and hope for the best.

In this article, I’ll share my top fall photography portrait tips. And by the time you’ve finished, you’ll be able to create stunning images like a pro.

Sound good? Let’s dive right in.

1. Prepare your equipment and check the weather

leaves changing color

Preparation is the key to any successful shoot – fall portrait sessions included.

Of course, ensuring your camera batteries are charged, your memory cards are clear, and your lenses are clean seems like a no-brainer, but it’s often the fundamentals that we overlook.

Pro tip: When clearing cards, double check that you have downloaded everything, then use the in-camera Format function to clear your images. Don’t delete photos via your computer – otherwise, you risk card-writing issues down the line.

Also, make sure you check the weather. In many parts of the world, the weather can change quickly, so it pays to stay informed. If you’re doing a paid session, you may have to schedule far in advance and you’ll simply have to make the best of a bad weather day – but if your fall portrait photoshoot is more informal, keeping an eye on the weather can make a big difference. At the very least, it’ll keep you from venturing out into the cold only to find that your session gets rained out within minutes.

By the way, if you and your subject/model are up for it, autumn portraits in the rain can look gorgeous. But you’ll need to protect your equipment (try a simple rain cover) and make sure you wear a jacket.

a misty autumn portrait

2. Get out when the light is best

Light can make or break a fall portrait, so this tip is critical. You can shoot autumn portraits on overcast days, especially if you’re after a moody, nostalgic look. However, I personally prefer the warm light of sunrise and sunset.

Now, dragging your family out of bed for a photoshoot is always going to be tough, so I recommend skipping the morning light; instead, aim to start your shoot about an hour before sunset. The low sunlight will be flattering, plus you might get a beautiful sunset to include in the background (or to use for fun autumn silhouettes).

By the way, make sure you look up sunset times for your local area before scheduling a shoot. You might be surprised to realize how early it gets dark, and you want at least a good hour of shooting before the sun goes down.

3. Choose the right clothing

Make sure everyone dresses appropriately. It’s getting colder, and if everyone stays warm – including both the model and the photographer! – you’ll have one less thing to worry about.

Also, it may seem lovely and warm outside, but believe me: it gets cold pretty quick when the sun starts to go down. And advise your subject to bring a change of clothing. It can be wet and muddy, and you certainly don’t want to end the session with an accidental tumble.

As for clothing colors and aesthetic: In the fall, getting this right can make a huge difference to your images. Ask your subject to wear natural tones that will either blend in or complement the colors of the leaves and trees. For the photo below, my son wore a dark red sweater, as we knew the area had very vivid reds in the trees:

boy wearing a purple-red sweater

My daughter wore black and white, which is a timeless combination that blends in well. Also, my son wore a gray hood that worked well with my daughter’s clothes.

If you do have multiple subjects, try and avoid clashing patterns or colors. Discuss clothing choices in advance, and consider coming up with a color scheme that everyone can follow.

Also, avoid t-shirts or sweatshirts that have dominant logos. These can be very distracting, plus they can date an image.

Again, ensure there is one (or more) changes of clothes available. This will not only provide variety in your images, but will also prepare you to deal with any accidents in the wet and possibly muddy conditions.

4. Choose your location wisely

In autumn, you want to find the best colors and textures available, which often means heading to a botanical garden or a beautiful forest. Pay attention to the foliage, and feel free to check out a foliage predictor map; certain areas, depending on their elevation and latitude, will turn before others, and the more fall color, the better.

Also, note that fall conditions can change really quickly. Leaves turn over a couple of days, and it often won’t happen until later than you think (which is where a fall foliage map comes in handy!). You also need to check that the leaves are still present (a heavy wind can take them down overnight, so if you find a good place to shoot, don’t dawdle!).

For my most recent shoot, I searched online for arboretums, which often feature collections of interesting trees like this one:

Japanese maple colors

One more quick tip: Use social media for location tags to see what other people have photographed over the last few days (at or near the same location). Instagram, Twitter, and even Trip Advisor work well. You may find a great location that you would never have considered otherwise.

5. Use the right aperture (and settings)

In fall portrait photography, your ISO should stay low to prevent noise, and your shutter speed should sit at 1/125s and above (I consider 1/60s to be my absolute minimum, assuming my lens or camera doesn’t include image stabilization).

But it’s your aperture that can really make a difference. I highly recommend you experiment with different apertures; that way, you can create beautiful blurred backgrounds, as well as backgrounds that emphasize the color and texture of the leaves.

To get a super blurry background, set your aperture to its widest option (i.e., the lowest number, such as f/4, f/2.8, f/1.8, etc.). For me, this is generally f/2.8, though with the kit lens that comes with your camera, you should be able to shoot at around f/5. Here’s the type of effect you can expect with a wide aperture:

girl with blurry background using an f/2.8 shutter speed

If you want greater definition in the leaves, try focusing on your subject but increasing the aperture to f/8:

girl fall portrait f/8 aperture

And if you want everything in focus, from the subject in the foreground to the leaves in the background, you can increase the aperture to f/16 or even f/22. Be careful when shooting at f/22, though; your shutter speed will be significantly lower so you’ll probably need to increase your ISO, plus you’ll get image softening due to diffraction.

girl autumn portrait f/22

I always shoot in RAW, as it allows me that extra flexibility when editing. With modern cameras, JPEGs are very versatile, but I still recommend you capture RAW files if possible (some cameras allow you to capture a RAW and JPEG at the same time, which is a good option if you’re attached to JPEGs).

As for your camera’s White Balance setting: You can always leave it on Auto, but I like to use Cloudy White Balance for fall portraits. It warms up the colors, and while you can always adjust later on if you shoot in RAW, it’s helpful to get an accurate preview of the final result.

6. Aim to capture emotions and natural smiles

The best portrait photos tend to look natural, which requires natural poses, but also natural expressions.

Now, when it comes to encouraging natural expressions, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. For adults, I generally recommend you get your subject comfortable in advance by talking with them, asking them about their life, etc. You can also try making them laugh, though this can be tough, or you can give them something to do (e.g., play the violin) and photograph them once they’re fully engaged.

For children, you can use props, you can tell jokes, or you can ask them to run toward you as fast as they can. You might also ask the parents for ideas, as they know their children best!

For the image below, I asked my children to laugh hysterically for no reason at all. This looked ridiculous, but as they calmed down, the smiles were more natural.

kids laughing hysterically during photo shoot

If you’re photographing more than one child, ask one to tell the other a secret. This will always get them giggling:

Posing Idea 2 Posing Idea 3

Another tip: If you’re photographing just one child, ask them to tell you about a subject they love. My son will talk for hours about anything Star Wars or Marvel. And I can ask my daughter her math questions for a range of reactions.

Basically, do anything to distract the kids or get a reaction – then be ready with your camera to capture the moment.

7. Enhance the colors in editing

The best autumn portraits – including my own! – go through some sort of editing process. Now, the editing program you use doesn’t really matter; Lightroom is great, as is Adobe Camera Raw, Capture One, Luminar AI, ON1 Photo RAW. Even free programs such as RawTherapee can fit the bill.

And you don’t need to be an expert editor to make your fall portraits shine. For the photos in this article, I actually kept the editing quite simple; aside from some little exposure and contrast tweaks, I went to the HSL panel in Adobe Camera Raw and saturated my Reds, Greens and Yellows. This really brought some extra punch to the images:

before and after editing fall portrait

Of course, editing is mostly about personal preference, so feel free to experiment like crazy. I do recommend you boost the colors a little bit, if possible; that way, you can emphasize those gorgeous fall hues.

Fall portrait photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

7 fun tips to enhance your autumn portraits. The next time you’re out shooting, try a tip or two – I guarantee you’ll see some great results!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you like best? Do you have any fall portrait photography tips of your own? Share them in the comments below!

Table of contents

Portrait Photography

  • GENERAL
    • 15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
    • 10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
    • How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
    • 10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography
    • 5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
    • Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
    • 8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
    • How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
    • The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
    • 10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
    • How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
  • PREPARATION
    • Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
    • 8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
    • Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
    • How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
    • 5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
    • 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
    • How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
    • How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
    • The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
  • SETTINGS
    • The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
    • How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
    • How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
    • Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
    • Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
    • 9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
    • Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
    • Shooting for HDR Portraiture
    • How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
    • How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
  • LIGHTING
    • 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
    • Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
    • How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
    • Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
    • 4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
    • 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
    • 3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
    • 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
    • How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits
    • How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
    • How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
    • Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
    • A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
    • How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
    • DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
    • Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
    • Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
    • 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
    • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
    • How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
    • Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
    • 5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
    • Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
    • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
    • How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
    • What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
    • How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
    • Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
    • Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
    • 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
    • How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
    • Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
    • The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
    • So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
    • How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
    • 3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
    • How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
    • Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
    • What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
    • How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
    • Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
    • 5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
    • Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
    • How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
    • High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
    • 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
    • How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
    • Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
    • How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
    • Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
    • Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
    • Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
    • How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
    • Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
    • 5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
    • A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
    • Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
    • A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
    • Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
    • How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
    • A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
    • Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
    • Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
    • Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
    • How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography
    • Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather
    • How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
    • How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
  • POSING
    • Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
    • Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
    • Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
    • How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
    • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
    • Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
    • How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
    • Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
    • How to Pose People for Headshots
    • Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
    • 20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
    • How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
    • Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
    • Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
    • Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
    • Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
    • Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
    • Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
    • 3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
    • What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
    • Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
    • Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
    • A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
    • Tips for Posing Men
  • COMPOSITION
    • 6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
    • 6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
    • How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
    • How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
    • How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
    • How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
    • 3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
    • Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
    • Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
    • How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
    • How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
  • GEAR
    • Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
    • Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
    • 3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
    • Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
    • 3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
    • Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
    • Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
    • Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out
    • Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
    • How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
    • Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
  • ADVANCED GUIDES
    • 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
    • Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
    • 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
    • 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
    • 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
    • Tips for Doing Fall Portraits

    • 6 Tips for Photographing Large People
    • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
    • How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
    • Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
    • Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
    • Self Portrait Photography Tips
    • What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
    • 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
    • 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
    • 15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
    • How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
    • 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
    • 5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
    • Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
    • Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
    • How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
    • The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
    • 6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
    • 3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
    • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
    • Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
    • 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
    • 10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
    • 7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
    • 3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
    • The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
    • Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
    • Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
    • 6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
    • 7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
    • 7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
    • How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
    • 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
    • 5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
    • Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
    • 7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
    • Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
    • Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
    • 3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
    • 5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
    • 3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
    • The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
    • 5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
    • 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
    • Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
  • CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
    • How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
    • How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
    • How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
    • How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
    • How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
    • Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
    • 5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
    • How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
    • Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
    • Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
    • Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
    • How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $ 10
    • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits
    • Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
    • 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
    • How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
  • POST-PROCESSING
    • 11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
    • Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
    • How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
    • How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
    • How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
    • How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
    • Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
    • 3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
    • How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
    • Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
    • How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
    • How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
    • How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
    • How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
    • How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
    • Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
    • How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
    • Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
    • How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
    • Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
    • 3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
    • How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
    • 5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
    • Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
    • 3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
    • Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
    • How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
    • Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
    • 5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
  • BUSINESS
    • Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
    • How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
  • INSPIRATION
    • 5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
    • DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
    • 21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
    • 24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
    • 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
    • 18 Stunning Self Portraits
    • Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
    • 11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
    • Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
    • Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
    • 21 Spooky Portraits
    • Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
    • 12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
    • Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
    • Triptych Portrait Series
    • 8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
    • An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
    • Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
    • 21 Fun Images of People Laughing
  • RESOURCES
    • Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
    • The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
    • The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
    • The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
    • Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
    • People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox

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The post 7 Fall Portrait Photography Tips (for Outstanding Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.


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11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results)

02 Sep

The post 11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

11 composition tips for food photography

Looking to improve your food photography compositions? You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I’m going to share my favorite composition tips – for arranging and styling food, yes, but also for adding creative touches that’ll give you an ultra-professional look.

So whether you’re a complete beginner just starting out in food photography, or you’re a more experienced photographer looking for some composition-enhancing tips, this guide will help you on your way.

Starting with tip #1:

1. Change your angle for an unusual perspective

Beginning food photographers often shoot food straight on, as if they’re sitting or standing at the table with their camera.

And while such an approach can work, it can also fall a little flat. Instead, consider a different perspective, one that will enhance the most interesting parts of the food or highlight key elements.

For instance, a straight-down approach – where you shoot from overhead, with the sensor parallel to the plate – is a great way to showcase all of the food, plus it can add some artistic flair.

Alternatively, shooting from low down or the side gives the viewer a new angle to consider and will highlight the food’s details.

raspberries on black

2. Consider orientation (portrait vs landscape)

As you’re undoubtedly aware, you can photograph food in either portrait or landscape orientation – but don’t just stick your camera in one position and call it a day.

Instead, think carefully about which orientation best highlights the food and best frames your composition.

Personally, I think landscape-oriented images tend to look great for showing off beautiful compositions. But try rotating your camera and see if a vertical shot might work well, too. You may find that a vertical composition actually enhances the photo by eliminating distracting elements around the central theme.

cookies set out on cloth food photography composition

3. Use the rule of thirds for well-organized food compositions

It’s a photography classic, but for a good reason. So if you’re struggling to come up with beautiful compositions, why not try the rule of thirds?

You see, the rule of thirds works by dividing your image into thirds (via gridlines). It suggests you align your main subject and other compositional elements with these gridlines; that way, the entire image feels both balanced and dynamic.

For example, I placed the bowls along gridlines here for a pleasing composition:

bowls carefully arranged composition

4. Break the rule of thirds

It is important to note that the rule of thirds is only a food photography guideline, not a true rule – so you certainly don’t need to stick to its terms.

After all, rules are there to be broken! Don’t be afraid to move food items around and test out different compositions. Try putting your main subject in different locations, away from the rule of thirds gridlines and intersections, and see what you get. Who knows; maybe you’ll hit upon a composition you really love!

Pro tip: Positioning the main subject dead-center or slightly off-center generally works well. It’ll lead the viewer’s eye around the image and then toward the main subject:

the rule of thirds broken with centered bread

5. Consider adding elements to the composition

The objects you include alongside your main subject are essential to creating beautiful compositions.

Of course, it’s important to have a main food element – but you should also add extra items to elevate the scene beyond the ordinary.

Some examples of items to include could be additional food pieces, garnishes to brighten the main subject, cutlery such as a knife and fork, and even cooking utensils.

plates of food
If you are shooting dishes around the main subject, you will need to go wide enough to capture everything in the frame.

6. Add props

In the previous tip, I recommended including little extra elements, such as cutlery or garnishes.

But if you want to really double down and create unique images, you might also try including props. I’m not talking about bits of food, but rather objects, such as bowls, plants, jars, rustic boxes, and the like.

Aim to arrange the items so you showcase – rather than obscure! – your main dish.

7. Re-arrange the elements (beyond the normal)

Often, the natural way to arrange food elements is as a chef or waiter would:

Food on the plate, knife to one side, a glass in the back, etc.

But to create a more striking composition, I suggest you mix it up. Move some of the items to a different place in the frame. For instance, you might move the knife out in front of the food, as I did here:

toast food photography composition

Really, the important thing is to experiment; test out different compositions, use your creativity, and then capture the shot you like best!

8. Use patterns

As a food photographer, patterns are your friend.

And while you don’t always need patterns in your photos, you can use them to creatively highlight your food. For instance, you might lay out a batch of baked goods in an eye-catching arrangement, or you might circle your main subject with a selection of different-colored fruits.

The key is to create a sequence or structure that creatively emphasizes the main dish. That way, the viewer knows where to look – and is also impressed by your artistry.

9. Use negative space

Here’s another tried and tested food photography composition technique:

Use negative space in your image.

Negative space refers to the part of your frame that is free from any elements or props, like a bare table, a stretch of cloth, etc.

And while additional elements and props can look nice, negative space is a great way to encourage the viewer to focus on the main dish without the added distraction that props bring. Plus, more negative space makes for more simplified compositions, which is generally a good thing.

stack of bread

10. Shoot specific parts of the food

Not all of your food has to be in each image.

So instead of zooming out to shoot the entire dish, get close and capture parts of the food. Emphasize mouthwatering details that’ll look great to the viewer, but make sure to carefully structure your compositions; the goal is to make the main subject stand out against the rest of the shot.

11. Use natural and artificial light

Did you know that light can significantly affect your food photography compositions? It’s true. Light can add volume, create shadows, and emphasize (or de-emphasize) different elements.

So before getting started, you will need to think about the light that is present in your food photography location. Observe how the light falls and ask yourself: does it look natural? Is the light too bright or too dark?

Strong direct light, for instance, can ruin your compositions by making the food too bright. So when faced with direct light, try moving your food to avoid this harsh light, or place your entire composition in the shade to create a more balanced image.

In situations where there is not enough natural light, you will need to brighten up your compositions another way. One solution is artificial lighting; consider using a flash, or even a lamp or fixed room lights, to add more brightness and lighten the subject.

bowls arranged on blue
Moving food and drink into the shade can eliminate the harsh shadows produced by direct sunlight.

Food photography composition: conclusion

Food photography composition can make or break your images of food, so you should pay careful attention to these tips.

That said, remember to be creative; if you don’t like one of these tips, ignore it! Food composition and styling is a personal choice and is entirely subjective. There is no right or wrong way of photographing things – so be sure to balance these tips with your own vision. That way, you can create images that look great, and that you love.

Now over to you:

Which of these composition tips is your favorite? Do you have any tips of your own to add? Share them in the comments below!

The post 11 Food Photography Composition Tips (for Mouthwatering Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.


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How to Make a Photo Essay: 5 Tips for Impactful Results

19 Jun

The post How to Make a Photo Essay: 5 Tips for Impactful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.

how to make a photo essay

Want to tell meaningful stories with your photos? That’s what a photo essay is all about: conveying concepts and narratives through a series of carefully chosen images.

While telling a story with photos can be a daunting task, there are several easy tips and techniques you can use in your photo essays to create striking, stunning, eye-opening results.

And that’s what I’m going to share in this article: five photo essay tips that you can immediately apply to your photography. You’ll leave as a better photo essayist than when you arrived!

Let’s get started.

What is a photo essay?

A photo essay is a collection of images placed in a specific order to convey certain emotions, specific concepts, or a progression of events.

In other words:

The photo essay tells stories just like a normal piece of writing, except with images instead of words. (Here, I’m using the term “story” loosely; as mentioned above, photo essays can encapsulate emotions or concepts in addition to traditional, time-based narratives.)

fire in the street photo essay

Plenty of world-class photojournalists use photo essays, including Lauren Greenfield, James Nachtwey, and Joachim Ladefoged. But the photo essay format isn’t exclusive to professionals, and photo essays don’t need to cover dramatic events such as wars, natural disasters, and social issues. Whether you are a complete beginner, a hobbyist, or a professional, the photo essay is a great way to bring your images to life, tell relevant stories about your own surroundings, and touch your family, friends, and coworkers.

So without further ado, let’s look at five easy tips to take your photo essays to the next level, starting with:

1. Find a topic you care about

Every good photo essay should start with an idea.

Otherwise, you’ll be shooting without a purpose – and while such an approach may eventually lead to an interesting series of photos, it’s far, far easier to begin with a topic and only then take out your camera.

As I emphasized above, a photo essay can be about anything. You don’t need to fixate on “classic” photo essay themes, such as war and poverty. Instead, you might focus on local issues that matter to you (think of problems plaguing your community). You can also think about interesting stories worth telling, even if they don’t have an activism angle.

For instance, is there an area undergoing major development? Try documenting the work from start to finish. Is there a particular park or nature area you love? Create a series of images that communicate its beauty.

a nice park

One key item to remember:

Photo essays are most powerful when you, as the photographer, care about the subject. Whether you choose to document something major and public, like an environmental crisis, or whether you choose to document something small and intimate, like the first month of a newborn in the family, make sure you focus on a topic that matters to you.

Otherwise, you’ll struggle to finish the essay – and even if you do successfully complete it, viewers will likely notice your lack of passion.

2. Do your research

The best photo essays involve some real work. Don’t just walk around and shoot with abandon; instead, try to understand your subject.

That way, you can capture a more authentic series of photos.

For instance, if you document a newborn’s first month, spend time with the family. Discover who the parents are, what culture they are from, and their parenting philosophy.

a newborn child

If you cover the process of a school’s drama production, talk with the teachers, actors, and stagehands; investigate the general interest of the student body; find out how the school is financing the production and keeping costs down.

If you photograph a birthday party, check out the theme, the decorations they plan on using, what the birthday kid hopes to get for their gifts.

If you’re passionate about your topic, the research should come easy. You should enjoy learning the backstory.

And then, when it comes time to actually shoot, you’ll have a much clearer understanding of the topic. You’ll know the key players in the story, the key ideas, and the key locations. You’ll be able to hone in on what matters and block out the flashy distractions.

Make sense?

3. Find the right angle

Once you’ve done your research, you’ll know your topic inside and out.

At which point you’ll need to ask yourself:

What is the real, authentic story I want to tell?

Every story has a hundred different angles and perspectives. And trying to share the story from every perspective is a recipe for failure.

Instead, pick a single angle and focus on it. If you’re documenting a local issue, do you want to focus on how it affects children? The physical area? The economy? If you’re documenting a newborn’s first month, do you want to focus on the interaction between the newborn and the parents? The growth of the newborn? The newborn’s emotions?

a parent and their child photo essay

As you’ll find out during your research, even stories that seem to be completely one-sided have plenty of hidden perspectives to draw on.

So think about your story carefully. In general, I recommend you approach it from the angle you’re most passionate about (consider the previous tip!), but you’re always free to explore different perspectives.

4. Convey emotion

Not all photo essays must convey emotion. But the most powerful ones do.

After all, think of the stories that you know and love. Your favorite books, movies, and TV shows. Do they touch you on an emotional level?

Don’t get me wrong: Every photo essay shouldn’t cover a sappy, heartstring-tugging tale. You can always focus on conveying other emotions: anger, joy, fear, hurt, excitement.

(Of course, if your story is sappy and heartstring-tugging, that’s fine, too – just don’t force it!)

How do you convey emotions, though? There’s no one set way, but you can include photos of meaningful scenes – human interactions generally work well here! – or you can simply show emotion on the faces of your photographic subjects. Really, the best way to communicate emotions through your photos is to feel the emotions yourself; they’ll bleed over into your work for a unique result.

a protester with lots of emotion

5. Plan your shots

Once you’ve done the research and determined the angle and emotions you’d like to convey, I recommend you sit down, take out a pen and paper, and plan your photo essay.

Should you extensively visualize each photo? Should you walk through the venue, imagining possible compositions?

Honestly, that’s up to you, and it’ll depend on how you like to work. I do recommend that beginners start out by creating a “shot list” for the essay. Here, you should describe the main subject, the narrative purpose of the image, plus any lighting or composition notes. Once you become more experienced, you can be looser in your planning, though I still recommend you at least think about the different shots you want to capture.

You can start by planning 10 shots. Each one should emphasize a different concept or emotion, but make sure to keep a consistent thread running through every composition; after all, the end goal is to create a powerful series of images that tell a story.

One final tip:

While you should stick to your plan pretty closely, at least at first, don’t ignore the potential for spontaneity. If you see a possible shot, take it! You can later evaluate whether it’s a worthwhile addition to your essay.

a toxic container on a beach

Photo essay tips: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about what photo essays are, and – hopefully! – how to create a beautiful essay of your own.

a community gardening event photo essay

Just remember: storytelling takes practice, but you don’t have to be an incredible writer to pull off a powerful photo essay. All you need is a bit of photographic technique, some creativity, and a lot of heart.

Once you start to tell stories with your photos, your portfolio will never be the same!

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for doing photo essays? Do you have any essays you’re proud of? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Make a Photo Essay: 5 Tips for Impactful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.


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10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results

30 May

The post 10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.

10 tips for improving your flower photography

Are you looking to capture stunning flower photography? You’ve come to the right place!

In this article, I’m going to take you through plenty of tips and tricks for gorgeous flower shots. Specifically, I’ll explain:

  • The best light for flower photography
  • A simple way to create a beautiful soft-focus effect
  • My secret for amazing foregrounds
  • Much more!

So if you’re ready to improve your photos, then let’s get started.

1. Photograph flowers on an overcast day

Did you know that overcast skies are perfect for photographing flowers?

It’s true. The soft light of an overcast day complements the delicate petals – plus, there are no shadows and no harsh bright spots, so you can get a nice, even exposure.

You need to be careful, however. Toward the beginning and end of a cloudy day, the light gets pretty limited, which leads to unwanted blur (especially when shooting at high magnifications). So aim to photograph at midday, then pack up before the sky gets too dark.

Flowers in soft light

2. Backlight will make your flowers glow

As you learned in the previous section, clouds are great for flower photography. But what about clear days? Can you shoot when the sky is bright and cloudless?

Absolutely!

You see, another type of light that is excellent for flower photography is backlight. You get nice backlight when the sun is directly in front of you, lighting your flower from behind.

Because petals are translucent, backlight makes flowers glow, like this:

backlit flower photography

Try to photograph late in the day when the sun is close to the horizon; that way, the backlight will hit your flower petals directly, plus it’ll cast a nice, warm light over the rest of your image.

(You might even be able to catch some rays of light filtering through the trees!)

3. Watch out for wind

When photographing flowers, wind is your enemy. It’ll blow your subjects in every direction, which makes it annoyingly difficult to focus (and if you’re shooting with a slow shutter speed, it’ll introduce plenty of blur).

The easiest way to avoid wind? Do your photography early in the morning when the weather is still calm. And a little wind is manageable; just bring a piece of cardboard or a reflector, then hold it up next to your flower.

If you prefer not to get up early, or if you need to take photos on a windy day, you do have a second option:

Bring your flowers inside. You don’t need a complex studio setup to get beautiful shots indoors – just put the flowers near a window and find a solid backdrop to set behind them. I photographed the flower below by taking it inside and placing it in front of a white sheet:

close-up of gerbera

4. Get closer

Here’s one of the easiest ways to create stunning, unique flower photos:

Get as close as you can.

You can do this a number of ways:

First, you can use a telephoto lens and zoom in on the flower. You’ll want to pay attention to the minimum focusing distance (MFD) of the lens because some lenses just can’t focus especially close. (The MFD is usually marked on the outside of the lens, though you can also look it up online.)

If you’re lucky, your telephoto lens will focus close, and you can use it for beautiful flower shots. But what if you can’t get as close as you’d like?

You have a couple of choices. You can use extension tubes, which mount on your camera and let the lens focus closer. Or you can use a close-up filter, which attaches to the end of your lens and works like a magnifying glass.

Honestly, both of these options come with pretty significant drawbacks; extension tubes are inconvenient, while close-up filters reduce image quality. Sure, they work, and if you’re just getting started with flower photography, either method will help you take interesting close-up shots. But if you want to really improve your images, I’d recommend a dedicated macro lens, which will let you capture intimate images without the need for accessories.

tulips with beautiful background

5. Use a reflector

Here’s a quick tip:

Shaded flowers can make for some stunning photos (especially when you combine a shaded subject and a well-lit background!).

But you’ll need to keep your flower relatively bright. So if your subject is in the shade, use a reflector to bounce some light (this will also make your flower more vibrant!).

6. Avoid a cluttered background

Here’s another quick piece of advice:

In flower photography, the background can make or break the image. A uniform background can look great – whereas a cluttered, distracting background will draw the eye and prevent the viewer from appreciating your main subject.

Before you hit the shutter button, ask yourself:

Does my background complement the flower? Or does it distract?

And if it does distract, try to change your position until the distractions are gone, and you’re left with nothing but a beautiful wash of color.

7. Use a shallow depth of field

Shallow depth of field flower photos can look great – but what is a shallow depth of field, and how do you achieve it?

A shallow depth of field features only a sliver of sharpness. So the flower stays sharp, but the background is blurred, like this:

flower photography tips blue flowers with water droplets

To get a shallow depth of field, make sure to use a wide aperture (i.e., a low f-number) such as f/2.8 or f/4. And get as close as you can to your subject while also increasing the distance between the subject and the background.

8. Keep a part of your flower sharp

A shallow depth of field effect is great – but you’ll still need to keep at least part of the flower sharp so that your viewer’s eye has an anchor point.

So do what’s necessary to get a crisp image. If you’re shooting in good light, raise your shutter speed and focus carefully. If you’re shooting in poor light, use a tripod and a remote release to avoid camera shake.

Remember: Even if there doesn’t seem to be wind, flowers always move a little. So if your flower isn’t sharp, try raising the shutter speed a stop or two.

Finally, check your focus. If necessary, focus manually. Make sure you’ve nailed the most important parts of the flower, such as the petals and the flower center.

9. Change your point of view

If you’re after unique flower photos, don’t just take a standard shot. Instead, move around and try some different angles and focal lengths.

For instance, shoot the flower from behind or from below to capture an interesting point of view. You might also try shooting down from above, getting unusually up close and personal, or zooming out for a wider environmental image.

Morning Glory flower

10. Focus through another flower

“Focusing through” is a popular technique among professional flower photographers, and for good reason:

It looks really, really cool, especially when you get a lot of colorful foreground blur.

Like this:

flowers photographed with the shoot-through technique

But how can you create such a compelling image? How do you get a nice foreground blur?

You simply find a flower you want to photograph, then adjust your position until another flower sits between the lens and the flower. (The closer the foreground flower is to the lens, the better the look.)

Ultimately, the secondary flower will become a blur of color, and your final image will have a more professional feel.

Tips to improve your flower photography: conclusion

Well, there you have it:

10 easy tips to take your flower photos to the next level.

Hopefully, at least one or two of the tips speaks to you – and you feel inspired to get out and start shooting!

Now over to you:

Do you have any flower photos you’re proud of? Which of these tips do you like the most? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post 10 Flower Photography Tips for Gorgeous Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.


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11 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results

23 May

The post 11 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

sunset photography tips for beautiful results

If you’re looking to do gorgeous sunset photography, then you’ve come to the right place.

Because in this article, I’m going to share 11 simple tips that will instantly improve your sunset photos.

Specifically, I’m going to explain:

  • How to capture beautiful sunset tones consistently
  • How to create balanced, pro-level sunset compositions
  • The best type of weather for sunset photos
  • Much more!In fact, sunsets (and sunrises) aren’t even difficult to photograph!

Ready to become a sunset photography master?

Let’s dive right in.

1. For the best shots, plan ahead

While you can sometimes capture beautiful sunset shots without any forethought…

…the best shots usually come from real planning.

So scope out places that might be good for sunsets the day or two before your shoot. Look for interesting locations – locations where you can photograph the sun all the way down to the horizon, and where there will be opportunities for shots that include foreground elements and silhouettes.

Sunsets only take a few minutes, which is why you want to think about these elements before the sunset begins. Otherwise, you might miss the best shots.

Find out when the sun will set, then arrive at least half an hour beforehand. It’s often in the lead up to a sunset that the real magic happens.

And keep an eye on the weather. There are a variety of different types of sunsets that produce a range of different types of lights and patterns in the sky. Don’t just head out on clear days, because while these can produce some wonderful colors, it’s usually the days with (partial) clouds when the real action happens.

(Also, dust and smoke in the air can produce amazing results, too.)

Consider the equipment you might need. Take a tripod, lenses with a range of focal lengths, and extra batteries.

That way, when the sky turns beautiful, you’ll be ready!

sunset photography tips dock with boat

2. Shoot at a variety of focal lengths

Most sunsets are photographed with wide-angle lenses, and these focal lengths can make for beautiful images. A lens in the 10-30mm range will give you sweeping shots of your sunset scene.

However, if you want the sun itself to be a main feature of the shot, you’ll need to zoom right in. The sun is just half a degree across, so when you shoot with a wide-angle lens, the sun will be tiny in the frame. If you want to highlight the sun, you’ll need to zoom in with a 200mm lens or longer.

(This, in turn, will increase your need for a tripod!)

Also, be hyper-aware of eye-safety concerns: looking at the sun is always dangerous. And it’s even more dangerous when you look at it through a telephoto lens. So if you do include the sun in your composition, never look through your camera’s optical viewfinder. Instead, use Live View to check your composition and exposure on the rear LCD.

(If you use a mirrorless camera, this won’t be an issue. You can safely look at the sun through the electronic viewfinder.)

sunset over a misty valley

3. Use the rule of thirds to improve your sunset photography compositions

The rule of thirds states that you should position key elements of your scene a third of the way into the frame.

So instead of putting the horizon in the center of the composition, put it toward the top or the bottom, like this:

tree at sunset

Do you see how the horizon is a third of the way up from the bottom? That’s what the rule of thirds suggests.

And it’s not just about horizons. You can also use the rule of thirds to position the sun, foreground elements, background elements, you name it.

Of course, the rule of thirds isn’t a requirement. And you can break the rule of thirds for stunning results in certain situations.

But in general, the rule of thirds is a great starting point – so unless you have a good reason to do otherwise, I highly recommend you follow it!

4. Experiment with different exposures (to achieve a magical result)

First things first:

When doing sunset photography, you should always shoot with a semi-automatic or Manual mode. Don’t let your camera dictate your settings for you (in other words: get off Auto mode immediately!).

So before starting a sunset shoot, switch your camera over to Aperture Priority mode, Shutter Priority mode, or Manual mode.

And don’t just take one shot at one exposure. Instead, take a variety of shots at different exposures.

So while you can try a “standard” exposure based on your camera’s recommendation…

…don’t be afraid to underexpose by raising your shutter speed or narrowing your aperture. And don’t be afraid to overexpose by doing the opposite.

silhouetted skyline

The great thing about sunsets is that there is no one “right” exposure. You can get stunning results with underexposure and overexposure; the key is to experiment.

(Personally, I tend to start with a relatively quick shutter speed, then slowly work down to slower shutter speeds for brighter, more luminous shots.)

5. Bracket often

In the previous tip, I talked about experimenting with different exposures.

But did you know that there’s a technique, called bracketing, that guides you in your exposure experimentation?

Here’s how it works:

First, take a photo using your camera’s suggested settings.

Then adjust the settings (either manually or via exposure compensation) to slightly underexpose the photo and then to slightly overexpose the photo.

So if your camera says to shoot at f/8, you would take your first shot at f/8, as recommended. But your second shot would be at f/5.6, and your third shot would be at f/11.

That way, you’d end up with a “standard” shot, a darker shot, and a brighter shot, all of which will give you different colors and effects.

It’s a good way to guide your experimentation, and it’s also a good way to create “insurance” photos – so that, if you overexpose the standard shot on accident, you still have a darker file on your memory card.

Make sense?

sunset photography tips sunbeams

6. Auto Exposure Lock is your friend

Bracketing can be a lot of fun, but it also takes time – and it’s not the most precise way to create a well-exposed image.

That’s where Auto Exposure Lock (AEL) comes in handy.

Using AEL is simple. First, you point your camera at the area of the scene you want perfectly exposed, such as a beautiful foreground feature.

Then lock the exposure.

Finally, reframe the picture (while maintaining the exposure lock).

Basically, it lets you determine the exposure without interference from the ultra-bright sunset, which can wreak havoc on a camera’s meter.

Also note that you can use Auto Exposure Lock to create beautiful silhouettes; just point your camera at the brightest part of the sky, lock the exposure, and then reframe with a foreground subject. The result will look like this:

horse silhouette

Cool, right?

7. For the best colors, get off Auto White Balance

Your white balance setting adjusts the temperature of the colors in your scene.

So depending on the white balance, you’ll end up with a cooler (bluer) photo or a warmer (redder) photo.

When the white balance is set to Auto, your camera will automatically deal with the color temperature. And while this can sometimes work, it often gives subpar results – where you lose the warm golden tones of your sunset.

So instead of using Auto White Balance, switch your camera to the Cloudy or Shade presets, which will warm things up a little.

Alternatively, if you’re shooting a sunset and you do want a cooler, moody shot, you can experiment with other white balance settings, such as Incandescent.

One more thing:

If you shoot in RAW, it’s true that you can always tweak the white balance during post-processing. However, this is often pretty inconvenient; after all, how much time do you want to spend adjusting the white balance in front of your computer?

Which is why it’s worth getting the white balance right in-camera.

8. Always bring a tripod for the sharpest results

If you’re shooting at longer shutter speeds, such as 1/60s and beyond, then a tripod makes a huge difference.

It’ll keep your camera stable – so that your files remain tack sharp.

When you’re out doing sunset photography, you don’t need to start the shoot with a tripod, because the minutes leading up to a sunset bring plenty of light.

But as the sun sinks on the horizon, a tripod will become more and more necessary. (And by the time the sun is gone, a tripod will be absolutely essential.)

Note that you might want to use a tripod for your whole photoshoot, especially if you plan to capture long exposures that feature moving water, like this one:

long exposure sunset photography

What if you don’t have a tripod? Or you forget to bring one?

In such cases, I recommend you stabilize your camera against an object. You can put it on the hood of a car, or you can just set it on the ground; whatever allows you to minimize movement as much as possible.

9. Don’t be afraid to focus manually

We all love autofocus – but sometimes, when shooting in extreme lighting conditions, autofocus just won’t get the job done. Your lens will hunt all around, and the shot will end up out of focus.

That’s where manual focus comes in handy.

Now, not all lenses support manual focus. Some only allow for autofocusing, in which case you’re out of luck.

But many lenses do let you focus manually (and you can generally activate manual focus by pushing the AF/MF switch on the lens barrel to MF).

So when your lens starts to hunt, don’t fret; just swap over to manual focus and keep shooting!

10. Shoot more than just the sunset

Here’s one of the many wonderful things about sunsets:

They don’t just create wonderful colors in the sky; they also cast a beautiful golden light that is great for other types of photography!

So as the sunset progresses, keep an eye on other photographic opportunities around you. For instance, you can capture portrait, landscape, or macro shots. In the light of the setting sun, it’ll all turn out amazing!

portrait silhouette with sunstar

11. Keep shooting (even after the sun is gone)

A sunset constantly changes over time – which means that every additional minute is an opportunity for a different shot.

So don’t take a few shots and call it an evening. Instead, stick around and photograph the sun as it goes down. You can continue to capture the same composition, or you can test out different compositions; the key is to keep your camera out and your finger on the shutter button.

Also make sure to capture different exposures (bracket!) and consider working with different focal lengths, as I’ve discussed above.

And finally:

Don’t pack up once the sun is gone. The period after the sun has disappeared – called the blue hour – can be great for photography, too, thanks to its beautiful colors and ethereal light. So if you still have the energy, keep finding compositions until the colors have vanished completely from the horizon.

sunset photography tips

Sunset photography tips: conclusion

Now that you know these tips, you’re well on your way to capturing some stunning sunset photography of your own.

So the next time the sun starts to get low in the sky…

…grab your camera and head outside!

Amazing images await.

Now over to you:

Which of these sunset photography tips is your favorite? Are you going to use any of them the next time you photograph a sunset? Share your thoughts (and sunset photos) in the comments below!

The post 11 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.


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11 Photo Manipulation Ideas (for Beautiful Results)

28 Apr

The post 11 Photo Manipulation Ideas (for Beautiful Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

11 photo manipulation ideas for beautiful results

If you’re looking for some fun photo manipulation ideas to create stunning art, you’ve come to the right place.

Today, manipulating digital photography is a quick and easy process. Want to generate a double-exposure look? Create a tilt-shift effect? Simulate a fisheye lens? All these options and more are accessible thanks to image manipulation programs like Photoshop.

So here are 11 photo manipulation ideas to get your creative juices flowing!

1. Make a tilt-shift effect

tilt-shift effect
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/320s | ISO 100

When viewing a landscape from a distance, the scene looks uniformly focused to our eyes. However, when we look at a fake or model landscape, our physical proximity to the miniature scene creates some interesting optical effects.

But you don’t need a fake landscape to create this “tilt-shift” effect. With the right lenses, you can achieve it in-camera – or you can replicate the phenomenon in post-processing!

Here is a great tutorial on simulating a tilt-shift effect in Photoshop.

2. Generate an anaglyph 3D effect

anaglyph 3D effect photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/100s | ISO 160

Anaglyph 3D renderings are made up of two differently filtered and slightly offset colored images. When viewed through special glasses, the two different colors are seen by different eyes, creating a 3D effect.

Creating an anaglyph 3D image in Photoshop is easy. First, open a photo and duplicate the Background layer twice. Select one of the duplicated layers and click on the FX icon at the bottom of the Layers panel. Select Blending Options – this will open the Layer Style window. Uncheck the G and B checkboxes next to Channels in the central panel. Then click OK.

layer styles window

Next, select the other duplicated layer. Click on the FX icon at the bottom of the Layers panel and select Blending Options again. This time, when the Layer Style window opens, uncheck the R checkbox. Click OK.

Finally, select one of the duplicated layers and nudge it slightly to the left or right using the mouse or the directional keys on the keyboard. The colors in the layers will separate, generating an anaglyph effect.

3. Imitate a circular fisheye lens

circular fisheye effect photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/5 | 1/160s | ISO 320

Photo manipulation ideas inspired by camera equipment can achieve engaging results. A fisheye lens is an ultra-wide-angle that produces a large amount of distortion, creating distinctive panoramic or hemispherical images.

To create a circular fisheye effect, open an image and select the Elliptical Marquee tool. Set the Style dropdown on the top menu to Fixed Ratio and drag the Marquee tool over the center of the image. Click Filter > Distort > Spherize. Adjust the amount of distortion you’d like in the pop-up panel (I usually leave the slider at 100%). Click OK.

To isolate the Spherized section from the rest of the image, keep the Spherized layer selected. Right-click inside the perimeter of the Spherized layer, then hit Select Inverse.

Next, right-click on the outside of the circle and select Fill. In the Fill pop-up box, make sure the Contents dropdown menu is set to Black, the Mode is set to Normal, and the Opacity is set to 100%. Click OK.

The area outside the Spherized subject will fill with black, isolating the fisheye effect.

4. Combine two images for a double exposure effect

double exposure effect
Water photo: Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/10 | 1/500s | ISO 100
Fern photo: Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.8 | 1/80s | ISO 100

From the days of early photography, shooters have gone to considerable lengths to avoid ghosting and double exposures. However, some photographers generate multiple exposures deliberately for creative purposes.

Double exposures can be made in-camera (both digitally and on film), but they can also be imitated in Photoshop.

This article demonstrates a simple way to make a double exposure effect in post-production.

5. Simulate an infrared effect

infrared forest scene photo manipulation ideas

Infrared photography captures wavelengths of light that operate outside the visible spectrum.

While there are several in-camera ways to create infrared imagery, the effect can be simulated in Photoshop, too. Take a look at our article on creating beautiful infrared effects.

6. Create a lens flare

adding a flare effect to an image

When bright light reaches your camera, it can reflect off different parts of the lens to create an interesting flare effect.

While lens flare is sometimes unwanted, it can have interesting creative applications. In this article, we show you how to add a lens flare to an image with Photoshop.

7. Create a sepia look with Photoshop

beautiful sepia leaves
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/8 | 1/200 | ISO 400

Sepia is a warm brown tone named after the pigment derived from the ink sac of the cuttlefish genus Sepia. In photography, the term sepia refers to a form of print toning. The use of sepia in photography began in the 1880s, and today the beautiful warmth of sepia toning is associated with age and history.

To apply a sepia tone to a photograph in Photoshop, first open an image. Create a Curves adjustment layer and adjust the curve to introduce a faded aesthetic:

S-curve in Photoshop

The next step is to set the Photoshop foreground color to around the #35322e mark and the background color to around #cebbab. Click on the Create New Fill Or Adjustment Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel and select the Gradient Map option. This will apply a gradient sourced from the foreground and background color selections.

Select the Gradient Map layer in the Layers panel and open the Properties panel. In the Properties tab, click on the strip of graduated color to open the Gradient Editor.

Once in the Gradient Editor, make sure the Gradient Type is set to Solid and the Smoothness to 100%. Here’s what the window should look like:

Gradient Editor window in Photoshop

Finally, feel free to make adjustments to the Gradient Map (this will change the sepia effect). Once you have finished preparing the Gradient Editor, click OK. And you’re done!

8. Apply an Instagram-like filter in Photoshop

Instagram filter effect
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100

Instagram gives users the option to easily customize images or videos before uploading them to the social media platform. And with varied and eye-catching results, many users have looked to emulate Instagram filters in Photoshop!

If you are interested in applying Instagram-inspired effects to your photography work outside of the social media platform, this tutorial might come in handy.

9. Create a Lomography-inspired effect

Lomography effect photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/320s | ISO 200

Named after the optics manufacturer Lomo, Lomography makes use of the unpredictable and unique optical traits of plastic cameras and alternative processing techniques. And with the rise of digital photography, the Lomo aesthetic has spread to digital manipulation techniques.

While there is no single Lomography look, different Photoshop techniques have been developed to recreate Lomography-type effects.

To produce a Lomo-inspired digital photograph, first open an image in Photoshop. For a more traditional look, you can crop the photo into a square using the Crop tool.

Next, create a Curves adjustment layer. In the Curves histogram, click on the RGB dropdown menu and select Red. Make a shallow S curve within the histogram.

Next, select Green from the RGB dropdown menu and make a slightly more pronounced S curve. Lastly, select the Blue channel from the RGB dropdown menu and make an S curve similar to the green S curve.

Keep in mind that the curves don’t have to mirror each other exactly – what we are aiming for is a well-saturated image with considerable contrast and a distinctive hue. For the best results, I recommend experimenting! You can also add some grain via Filter > Noise > Add Noise.

Lomographic images also tend to have pronounced vignettes. To emulate this effect, duplicate the original image layer. Then, with the Lasso tool selected, draw a loose oval or circle around the center of the image area. Click Select > Modify > Feather. Set the Feather Radius to 250 pixels (the maximum) and click OK.

Next, click on Select > Inverse. With the inverse selection active, create a Levels adjustment layer. In the Levels panel, adjust the sliders to introduce a dark vignette around the edges of the image (the effect will vary from photo to photo, so some experimentation may be required!).

10. Apply a Sabattier effect in Photoshop

Sabattier effect examples

The Sabattier effect is one of many photo manipulation ideas that originated in the darkroom. The process involves rendering a negative or print either partially or completely tonally reversed. In other words, dark areas in the image become light and light areas become dark – for an effect known as solarization.

In the darkroom, this Sabattier effect can occur when a semi-developed print or negative is re-exposed to light for a brief moment; the result is a surreal, eye-catching version of the photo.

Of course, you can also recreate the Sabattier effect in Photoshop with two simple methods:

Sabattier method 1

The first technique applies a solarizing filter directly to your photo.

First, open an image and duplicate it. With the duplicate layer selected, click Filter > Stylize > Solarize. That’s it! The image will instantly take on a solarized aesthetic.

For a more classic solarization effect, convert the image to black and white with a Black and White adjustment layer. Different black and white settings will alter the appearance of the solarization, so try a few different presets or make your own custom adjustments.

Sabattier method 2

While the Solarize filter method works well, it doesn’t offer a lot of creative control – it’s just a straight conversion. To make a less destructive and more customizable solarization effect, open your image in Photoshop and add a Black and White adjustment layer (if desired). Create a Curves adjustment layer.

In the adjustment layer, create this curve:

Sabattier curves adjustment

From there, you can adjust the curve for a dramatic look. Depending on the image, you can also reverse the Curves adjustment layer for a more pronounced or subtle effect. Since you’re working non-destructively with an adjustment layer, this process can easily be undone at any point.

11. Simulate a glitch effect

glitch effect Photoshop photo manipulation ideas
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100

Last (but not least!) on our list of photo manipulation ideas is a glitch effect simulation.

Glitches are flaws in a digital medium. Inherent in our modern technological landscape, true glitch art is made by capturing organic glitches, manually corrupting digital media, or by physically manipulating electronic devices to cultivate glitched imagery. The process can be quite tricky, however – so simulating a glitch effect can be an easier way to convey the fragility of digital media.

To discover how to create a glitch effect in Photoshop, check out our step-by-step tutorial.

Photo manipulation ideas: conclusion

From Lomography-inspired effects to simulated glitch art, the creative possibilities of photography are just about limitless. So if you find yourself in a creative rut, give one of the photo manipulation ideas from this list a try – you never know what new perspectives your manipulations might inspire!

Now over to you:

What are your favorite types of photo manipulation? Share your thoughts (and examples!) in the comments below.

The post 11 Photo Manipulation Ideas (for Beautiful Results) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.


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How to Photograph Into the Light for Stunning Results

23 Mar

The post How to Photograph Into the Light for Stunning Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

photographing into the light

In this article, I’ll explain how to photograph into the light.

This technique is sometimes called contre-jour, a French term that literally translates to “against the light.”

Now, there are various ways you can approach this style of photography. You can choose to photograph stunning silhouettes, or you can attempt to mitigate dark areas in your photo through post-processing.

To discover the best ways of photographing into the light, read on!

Why should you photograph into the light?

Photographing into the light is a great way to add drama to your photos.

(Note that photographing into the light is also known as backlit photography.)

person filling bucket

But to get nice images, you’ll need to have a good understanding of how the light will interact with your camera.

Now, almost everyone will have shot against the light at some point (e.g., when photographing a sunrise or sunset).

But if you can understand how to control the light across your frame, you can create especially incredible results.

For instance, one of the most obvious effects you’ll see when doing backlit photography is a silhouette, which I discuss in the next section.

How to create stunning silhouettes

Silhouettes are shapes formed by objects in front of a brighter background.

They’re very appealing to photographers because you can produce powerful shapes, which will give your images a very graphic feel.

woman dancing silhouette photographing into the light
Shapes and patterns are important when silhouetting an image.

You won’t get good silhouettes by just pointing the camera into the light, however. Some planning is needed to get the best result.

Specifically, you’ll want:

  • A low angle: Silhouettes are best when the entire silhouetted shape sits against the bright background. Since the background is usually the sky, getting down to a low angle to photograph upward is best.
  • A clear horizon line: Other than the objects you want to silhouette, try to avoid placing other elements on the horizon line. This often means a clear horizon line is best. Also, avoid having objects overlap with the main subject you’re silhouetting.
  • To expose for the sky: Expose for the bright background; this will lead to dark, beautifully silhouetted foreground objects.
  • Other elements: Include other elements such as framing, lines, and repetition that draw the eye toward your silhouette.
low angle photographing into the light
Here, I got down on the ground for a nice low angle. That way, I was able to capture the entire silhouette.

Drama in the sky

The sky is an important part of your photos, especially if you’re a landscape photographer. And photographing into the light can lead to some of the best results.

What you’re looking for are beautiful sunset colors, rays of light coming through clouds, and perhaps a starburst effect from the sun.

You’ll need to choose the correct time of day to improve your results – often sunrise or sunset. The hour before sunset and the hour after sunrise are also optimal.

The final key element is often about 30% cloud coverage.

Here are a few quick tips for photographing backlit landscapes:

  • Pay attention to the weather forecast: Check ahead for the forecast and use satellite images of the clouds in your area. That way, you can know with greater certainty if the sky will look good.
  • Arrive early: Arriving an hour ahead of the ideal light will help you plan your photo, and you’ll be ready if you get unexpected rays of sunshine breaking through the clouds ahead of when you want to photograph.
  • Compose with leading lines: If possible, use leading lines to guide the eye toward the sun or to an interesting area of the sky.
steel wool
You can also photograph against artificial light sources. Here, the background is wire wool.

Balancing the light

When photographing silhouettes, an underexposed foreground is what you want – but what if you’re after a detailed background and a detailed foreground?

For the best result, you’ll need to balance the light throughout your photo. Otherwise, you’ll produce an overexposed sky or an underexposed foreground.

There are two approaches you can use; one is in-camera, and the other uses post-processing.

  • Filters: Graduated neutral density filters are a great way to balance the light across your photo. These come in different strengths, so you can adapt your setup to the scene in front of you.
  • Digital blending: Combine a series of bracketed photos in post-processing. This approach uses luminosity masks and layers in Photoshop.
  • Combination: The best approach is to combine the above methods. Get the exposure as correct as possible in-camera, then use post-processing to enhance your results further.

How to handle flare

Photographing into the light can lead to flare in your photos.

While flare can be used artistically, you’ll at least want to control it. And you’ll sometimes need to prevent the flare entirely.

Use the following tips to control flare in your photos:

  • Choose your lens carefully: A lens with a smaller number of elements will cause less flare. So use a prime lens when possible.
  • Add a lens hood: Use your lens hood to block stray light.
  • Use a narrow aperture: When the sun is partially obscured by clouds, tree leaves, or the horizon line, use a small aperture such as f/11; you can give the sun a starburst effect.
  • Block the sun: Stick your hand in the image and cover the sun. Then take a second photo, this time without your hand. You can combine these two images in post-processing using layer masking. The final image won’t have your hand or flare.
flower landscape
The sun in this photo looks like a star due to a small aperture.

Natural or artificial?

Photographing into the light usually means photographing toward the sun, or photographing from a dark location (e.g., under a bridge) toward the light.

In such cases, the light source is natural and can’t be controlled. However, if you use off-camera flash, you can control the direction of the light.

So try using strobes to produce silhouettes or to backlight your subject. And at night, try light painting, and make sure the light source is behind your main subject.

Photographing into the light is right!

sunset photo photographing into the light
Photos of a sunset are always taken into the light. I merged a series of bracketed photos to balance light across the frame.

Successfully photographing into the light can be a bit of a challenge.

But with the right approach and the correct camera settings, you’ll get great results!

Now over to you:

Do you enjoy photographing into the light? What are your favorite situations for producing backlit images? Share your thoughts and photos in the comments below!

The post How to Photograph Into the Light for Stunning Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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13 Creative Food Photography Ideas (For Unique Results!)

04 Mar

The post 13 Creative Food Photography Ideas (For Unique Results!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

13 creative food photography ideas

If you’re looking for creative food photography ideas, then you’ve come to the right place.

Because in this article, I’m going to give you 13 fun ideas to take your food photography to the next level.

So if you’re ready to move beyond basic food photos, and if you want to start creating compelling artistic images with your food…

…then let’s dive right in!

creative food photography ideas food as a map of the world
Food photos can have a message and a concept.

1. Try different points of view

Here’s a simple yet effective food photography idea:

Change your perspective.

You see, most people view their food from a sitting position. And that’s how many casual food photographers approach their food.

But if you adjust your angle, you’ll capture food in a very different way.

Here are some perspectives you could try:

  • Bird’s-eye view: Aim your camera directly down at the food from above.
  • Plate level: Get down on the same level as your plate and photograph across it.
  • Wider scene: It’s tempting to focus only on the food. Instead, use a wider lens to show the scene around the food (plus the food itself, of course!).
shooting a plate from above
The bird’s-eye view angle is an effective one! Here, some food styling adds to the overall look.

2. Experiment with the white balance

Food is often photographed with an off-camera flash, which opens up a lot of creative possibilities.

One trick:

Put a gel on your flash (such as a blue gel or an orange gel). Then adjust the white balance of your camera to compensate for this color shift. Finally, fire your flash at the subject (while aiming to keep the background untouched by artificial light).

If you’ve done your work carefully, you’ll end up with a colorful background (a color opposite that of the flash gel), but neutral food!

3. Use a food artist

Getting someone to professionally style your food before shooting will give your photos a more creative feel.

As a photographer, you’ll be leaning on the creativity of your stylist here; your job will be to compose and light your image in a professional way.

close-ups are an artistic creative food photography idea
Detail photos can create an unusual narrative. This is a close-up of a Korean kimbap slice.

4. Try out some light painting

Food photography is, in essence, a form of still life (though one that needs to be carried out while the food still looks fresh!).

As with most still life photography, you can use light painting to give your images a more dynamic look.

Here’s how it works:

First, set up your food and determine your composition.

Set your exposure, making sure the shutter speed lasts 10 seconds or more.

Then fire off a shot and use some form of light to “paint” your food.

(Anything that emits light could be used, from a smartphone to a programmable LED light stick.)

If all goes well, you’ll end up with a very pro-looking image!

light painted pastry
Light painting with food photography is fun! I used a smartphone to create an artistic background.

5. Think about the background

If your photograph includes a background, you’ll need to use it in an aesthetically pleasing way.

Because the background matters – almost as much as the foreground, in fact!

Fortunately, there are a few easy strategies you can use to create a stunning backdrop:

  • Bokeh: Use a large aperture, focus on your main subject, and blur the background. Add some lights in the background for beautiful bokeh light balls.
  • Plain: Stick colorful paper or a painting behind your subject for a more standard, plain look.
  • Show a scene: Include the wider scene to give your food some context. (This could even include the restaurant where the food has been served!)
bowls with background bokeh
A large aperture blurs the background into beautiful bokeh.

6. Reflect your food

Here’s a creative food photography idea that makes for very modern, sleek images:

Reflect your food in glass for a double image.

Simply set up your food on a glass panel. Then lower your camera angle until you get a nice reflection in the glass.

You’ll want to make sure your food is well-lit – but be sure to avoid obvious balls of light bouncing off the surface of your glass.

cake reflection with bokeh in background
Here, a cake is reflected on a sheet of glass.

7. Tell the story

Cooking and preparing food is a process.

So every dish goes through a journey before it gets plated and put on a table.

Try to document that journey! Look to take photos of food at various points along the way to the table, so you can create a complete picture of the food.

Here are a few times when you might want to photograph food:

  • When it’s growing. Food needs to be produced, and photographing it during this phase can help you tell a story, especially if you’re creating a series of images.
  • When it’s sold. A visit to the market is a fantastic opportunity for food photography because vendors often display their food in an interesting way.
  • When it’s cooked. If possible, photograph the chef as they prepare the food. Pro tip: If you can capture the chef adding the finishing touches to a dish, you’ll get an especially satisfying shot.
  • On the table. The majority of food photos are of the plated meal. There’s nothing wrong with photographing food at this point; just aim to use some of these ideas to capture more creatively plated food photos.
a chef framed by rice paper
A chef creates a fresh spring roll with rice paper (and he’s framed by rice paper, too!).

8. Create some detail photos

Get out that macro lens, and get in close to your food!

First, this will offer some interesting, never-before-seen perspectives.

Plus, focusing on the detail or shape of food just makes for some very cool photography!

Try focusing on a single item of food. Then switch it up, and capture lots of the same food repeating throughout your photo.

food framed with key objects is one example of a creative food photography idea
An off-camera flash captures the steam coming off the noodles.

9. Frame your food

Food photographers rarely frame food with important contextual elements.

But if you can find ways to create an interesting frame, you’ll end up with a much stronger composition.

For instance, you might try surrounding the main food item with items that relate to it, as I did in the photo below:

strawberries framing the food in the center
Here, the strawberries frame the main subject and add narrative to the photo.

Or you can use plates or cutlery to frame the food.

Really, the sky is the limit!

10. Try lensball food photography

Lensball photography is a fun technique that uses a crystal ball to create unique photos. Like this:

sushi in a lensball
A lensball can provide a different perspective for food photos.

And they’re easy to use, too!

Just place your lensball close to the food…

…and you’ll get a very cool result.

11. Shoot food floating in midair

If you want to get a bit wild with your food photography, then try some midair shots!

For instance, you might show a banana floating off the ground, or a carrot suspended against a dark backdrop.

And if you want to take this a step further, you can try cutting up the food – so you get a set of suspended food slices smack-dab in the middle of your photo.

Of course, you’ll need to build some type of stand for your food (or use a technique like this one here), and you’ll need Photoshop to complete the effect.

But if you’re willing to put in the work, the results will be worth it!

12. Create a splash!

You can use water (or other liquids) to give your food a fresh feel – especially if you’re willing to get the food wet.

Now, there are a couple of different approaches to this. Both use flash to get that moment of capture.

  • Splash: Drop liquid-like milk, water, or juice onto food to create a splash.
  • Food into water: Drop food into a tank of water. Then photograph the food as it creates bubbles and splashes. Of course, this works best with fruit and vegetables; cake will likely be a bit messy!

13. Freeze your food

Here’s your final creative food photography idea:

Put your food in a tub of water, then stick it in the freezer.

Check back in a bit, and you’ll have a block of ice – with the food encased inside it!

Take out the block and photograph through the ice. You’ll end up with some unique images, like this one:

frozen fish in ice
I froze these fish in a block of ice.

While you can try this technique on many different types of food, I like to use it for fish photography. It can even look like the fish are swimming in the water!

Creative food photography ideas: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know plenty of creative food photography ideas.

And you’re well on your way to capturing some unique photos.

So take your camera, find some food, and have fun!

Now over to you:

What food do you plan to photograph? Which of these creative ideas do you plan to use first? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post 13 Creative Food Photography Ideas (For Unique Results!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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How to Use Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color and Tone Wheels for Amazing Results

04 Dec

The post How to Use Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color and Tone Wheels for Amazing Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate Color and Tone Wheels

Color editing is an essential part of nearly every great photo.

Unfortunately, adjusting the colors in most post-processing programs is difficult – or downright impossible.

One impressive exception to this, however, is ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021, which offers two powerful tools for color editing:

  1. The Color Wheel
  2. The Tone Wheels
ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021 Tone Wheels

And that’s what this article is all about. I’m going to show you how to use the Color Wheel and Tone Wheels to apply gorgeous color adjustments to your photos. You’ll discover how the Wheels work, what they can do, and how to get a professional look in your own images.

Let’s dive right in.

The Color and Tone Wheels: overview

ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

The Color and Tone Wheels come as part of Photo Studio Ultimate 2021, a recently updated, all-in-one photo editor that you can grab on ACDSee’s website for $ 8.90/month (you also have the option to purchase a lifetime license for $ 149.99).

ACDSee pricing

While Photo Studio Ultimate 2021 offers a lot of upgrades over its predecessor (including some major speed improvements that you’ll want to see for yourself), one of the biggest features for amateur and professional photographers is the set of color editing tools: the Color Wheel and the Tone Wheels.

Here’s a quick peek at the Color Wheel:

Color Wheel

And here is the Tone Wheels panel:

Tone Wheels

Together, these two tools can revolutionize your photo editing workflow.

And here’s why:

With the Color and Tone Wheels, you can make both broad and targeted adjustments to the colors in your images. You can shift, brighten, and saturate colors selectively, you can push colors into the shadows, highlights, and midtones separately, and so much more – all with a few easy-to-use wheels and sliders.

As someone who’s a bit color-obsessed, I’ve used quite a few color adjustment tools in many different post-processing programs. But I can honestly say that Photo Studio Ultimate’s version is one of the best implementations I’ve ever seen (if not the best). Yes, the wheels are amazingly powerful, and they should offer any amateur or professional all the color adjustment power they need. But they’re also just so fun and intuitive to work with, which is what’s really sold me on this program.

ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021 sample

Now let’s take a look at how you can actually use the Color and Tone Wheels for great results (and if you’re feeling intimidated, don’t be – I’ll give you simple, easy-to-follow instructions!).

How to use the Color Wheel to selectively adjust colors in your photos

You’ll find the Color Wheel in Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Develop mode, which you can select in the top-right corner of the screen:

the Develop mode in ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

Then open the Color Wheel panel on the left-hand side, and you’ll see a color wheel with a series of sliders below it:

Color Wheel panel

Here’s what you need to know:

The color wheel itself lets you select the colors you’re targeting in the photo.

And the sliders below it allow you to adjust the targeted colors.

So once you have your Color Wheel panel open, here’s what I recommend you do:

Step 1: Select the colors you want to adjust

Selecting the colors you’d like to adjust pretty easy, and there are a couple of methods you can use.

First, you can simply hover your cursor over different parts of your photo, and watch as it turns into a dropper icon:

dropper tool

Then, by clicking once on the photo, you’ll select that color for adjustment.

So if you click on a pinkish-purple part of your photo, you’ll select all the pink-purple colors:

dropper example

And if you click on a yellow part of your photo, you’ll select all the yellow colors:

dropper example

Now, as soon as you click on a part of your photo, you’ll see the color wheel change. This is to show you the color range you’ve selected.

You can also use the display on the color wheel to either select colors (instead of the eyedropper), or to refine your color selection.

To select colors, just click on the relevant part of the wheel:

selecting a color on the color wheel

And to fine-tune the color selection, just narrow the range of colors on the color wheel – by dragging the edges of the selection inward or outward. That way, the adjustments you make via the sliders will affect a narrower or broader range of colors in your photo.

Here, I’ve narrowed the color selection:

narrow selection on the color wheel

And here I’ve broadened it:

broad selection on the color wheel

Also, if you want to get really picky with your selection, you can drag your color range upward from the center of the wheel:

selecting only saturated areas

And this will ensure you only select the more saturated colors.

You can also drag downward from the rim of the wheel to select only the less-saturated colors:

selecting only desaturated colors

By the way, if you want to see the areas you’ve selected displayed on your photo, just hit the Auto preview the selected range checkbox:

previewing the selection

Your selected colors will be highlighted on the image, while everything else will be grayed out:

previewing the selection

Cool, right?

Step 2: Adjust the colors using the sliders

Now comes the fun part:

Actually adjusting the colors.

While there are a number of sliders, I recommend you focus on three key options:

Hue.

Saturation.

And Brightness.

hue, saturation, and brightness sliders in ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

These are the main adjustments you’ll want to make (I use them on almost every photo I edit).

By shifting the Hue slider, you shift the hue of your selected color range. So if I select the pink colors in this flower photo and want to make them more purple, I can just push the Hue slider to the left:

shifting the hue

I can also make them more red by pushing the Hue slider to the right:

shifting the hue

Speaking more generally, the Hue slider is useful for situations where you want to separate colors to create contrast, or where you want to make colors more similar to add harmony.

(How do you know what creates contrast and what creates harmony? Look at the color wheel! Colors that are opposite one another are contrasting/complementary colors, whereas colors next to one another are analogous colors.)

While color contrast will generally create a more powerful, in-your-face photo, analogous colors can result in a more peaceful final image.

Anyway, once you’ve adjusted the hue, I recommend turning to the Saturation slider. This works the way it sounds: It lets you selectively boost or reduce the saturation of your selected color range.

So by selecting the yellows in the image below, then adjusting the Saturation slider, you can boost the yellow intensity:

shifting the saturation

Or you can dial it back:

shifting the saturation

In general, boosting the saturation of your main colors looks pretty good, as long as you don’t overdo it. That way, a few colors in your photo will stand out and keep the viewer interested.

However, it can also be helpful to reduce the saturation of colors that distract from the main subject. So if your photo includes a red “Exit” sign in the background, you might reduce the saturation of those reds to keep the viewer focused on the foreground.

Finally, I recommend experimenting with the Brightness slider. This allows you to adjust the brightness of your selected color range. So you can brighten up your selection to make it pop:

shifting the brightness

Or you can darken the selection down to make it less impactful:

shifting the brightness

Step 3: Create additional color wheels for further adjustments

While one color adjustment may sometimes be enough, you also have the option to create more.

Simply click the Plus icon:

adding color wheels

Then follow the previous steps all over again!

Also, to toggle the effects of the color wheels on and off, you can just check and uncheck the box above each color wheel icon:

viewing the effects of color wheels

How to use the Tone Wheels to produce beautiful color grading

The Tone Wheels panel is located just below the Color Wheel panel in the Develop mode of Photo Studio Ultimate 2021:

using the tone wheels in ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021

Now, unlike the Color Wheel panel, you cannot select individual colors to adjust.

Instead, each of the three wheels corresponds to a different tonal range of your photo:

  • The top wheel corresponds to the highlights (the brightest tones)
  • The middle wheel corresponds to the midtones (the middle tones)
  • The bottom wheel corresponds to the shadows (the darkest tones)

And by adjusting the tone wheels, you change the color in the corresponding area of the image.

So by setting the Highlights wheel to yellow, your photo’s highlights will be tinted yellow:

adding yellow highlights

And by setting the Shadows wheel to green, your photo’s shadows will be tinted green:

adding green shadows

This is a fantastic way to add different looks to your images. For instance, you can create blue shadows and yellow highlights, which is a popular look on Instagram. Or you can make the highlights orange and the shadows teal, for a cinematic, movie-type result.

Now, the tone wheels themselves only allow you to select the hue and saturation of the color you’d like to add.

But by shifting the Brightness slider – found to the right of each wheel – you can also make the highlights, midtones, and shadows brighter or darker.

the brightness sliders

So how do you get great results using the Color Wheel panel? How should you approach this color adjustment tool?

Here’s what I recommend:

Step 1: Adjust the shadows

I like to start by adjusting the shadows in my images.

Now, you can choose your shadow color a few different ways:

One method is to select the Shadows eyedropper:

the shadows eyedropper

Then you can click on a part of your photo and the Shadows wheel will select its hue:

picking a shadow color

Alternatively, you can click around the wheel to select different colors:

clicking on the wheel

And you can further fine-tune the saturation with the left-hand slider:

using the saturation slider

Plus you can change the brightness of the shadows with the right-hand slider:

using the brightness slider

Personally, my favorite way to select colors is to use the wheel, but start by pushing the Saturation slider all the way up:

saturation pushed all the way to its maximum

That way, you can clearly see the effects of your color grade – and once you’ve chosen the right color, you can dial it back.

Also, while it’s always a good idea to experiment, the best shadow colors are generally cool – blues, greens, and purples.

I’d also recommend paying careful attention to the colors already present in your shadows – by matching the shadow color with already-existing colors, you can unify the darker parts of your photo and make it even stronger.

For this flower photo, I like blue-green shadows:

blue-green shadows example

Step 2: Adjust the highlights

Selecting a color for the Highlights wheel is just like selecting a color for the Shadows wheel.

You can use the eyedropper tool:

the highlights eyedropper

Or you can click on the wheel directly.

Of course, you can also fine-tune with the Saturation slider and the Brightness slider:

the brightness slider

Generally, you’ll want a warmer color for the highlights: an orange, yellow, or red.

It’s also a good idea to pay attention to your existing highlight colors. For instance, if your photo has a lot of warm sunlight, such as in the shot of the Black-eyed Susan flowers, you might want to accentuate the yellows with some nice golden highlights:

warmer highlights example

I’d also recommend looking at your shadow colors even when adjusting the Highlights wheel. For a nice result, you might choose a color that contrasts with the shadows to create a complementary color pair (as I discussed in the Color Wheel section, above).

Step 3: Adjust the midtones

Adjusting the midtones is a bit less common than adjusting the highlights and the shadows.

For one, if you adjust the midtones, your photo will often take on a more obvious tinted look, because we humans expect midtones to be more neutral compared to colder shadows and warmer highlights.

Plus, the midtones can correspond to skin tones, which you (generally) want to keep as natural as possible.

So I recommend you be careful when experimenting with the Midtones color wheel. If you do decide you want to make changes, I’d recommend keeping things closely aligned with the highlights, because too many colors in your scene will start to look messy.

Make sense?

As you’d expect, adjusting the midtones is just like adjusting the highlights and shadows. You have the Midtone color wheel that you can click on:

midtones color wheel

Plus your eyedropper:

midtones eyedropper

Which you can use to give your midtones a slight color grade!

ACDSee’s Color and Tone Wheels: the next steps

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to make pro-level color adjustments.

And with Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color Wheel and Tone Wheels tools, you have everything you need to take your color editing to the next level.

So make sure you grab ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2021. It’s currently available for just $ 8.90 per month, or you can get a lifetime license for $ 149.99. And if you’re just interested in trying out the software, you can get a free trial right here.

ACDSee is a paid partner of dPS.

The post How to Use Photo Studio Ultimate 2021’s Color and Tone Wheels for Amazing Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Nikon Q2 financial results: better-than-expected revenue with plans to cut expenses and increase focus on higher-end cameras, lenses

07 Nov

Nikon has released financial results for the second quarter (Q2) of its 2021 fiscal year, which starts April 1 (2020) and ends March 31 (2021), revealing a larger operating loss than forecasted despite higher-than-expected revenue.

As tends to be the case with financial results, there are plenty of nuances hidden within the broader numbers, but what is clear is Nikon’s Imaging Products Business is going through changes, not unlike Canon, which is also transitioning its product line and production facilities away from DSLRs and towards mirrorless.

Q2 Financial Highlights by segment. We have highlighted the Imaging Products Business, with the last column being the Q2 FY2021 results.

Starting with the Q2 results for Nikon’s Imaging Products Business, Nikon reports operating revenue of ¥39.3B ($ 372M) and an operating loss of ¥19.3B ($ 184.3M), down ¥12.4B and ¥17.8B, respectfully year-over-year (YoY) for Q2. Nikon further breaks down unit sales in the Imaging Products Business division, noting it sold 240K interchangeable lens cameras (ILC), 70K compact cameras and 390K interchangeable lenses. These numbers are down 31%, 73% and 29%, respectively, YoY for Q2.

An overview of the revenue and operating profit/loss for H1 FY2021 by segment.

Looking at the first half (H1) of Nikon’s Imaging Products Business’ FY2021, the company reported revenue of ¥64.4B ($ 615M) and an operating loss of ¥27.4B ($ 261M). This puts revenue above Nikon’s ¥55B forecast, but it seems expenses outpaced gains, as the company had previously forecast an operating loss of only ¥20B. Unit sales for H1 were also down across the board, with 380K ILC, 120K compact cameras and 610K interchangeable lenses being sold. That’s down 52.5%, 76% and 53%, respectively, compared to H1 FY2020.

A breakdown of camera unit sales per quarter going back to FY2018.

While the operating loss looks grim, it needs to be placed in context. Nikon cites ‘impairment losses on production equipment at production sites in Thailand, etc.’ as the reason for over half of this loss (¥15.6B, to be precise). These ‘impairment losses’ suggest Nikon is depreciating or downright writing-off the value of manufacturing equipment at its Thailand factories. Given the transition to new lines for mirrorless products, this isn’t a huge surprise. It’s likely the equipment Nikon is depreciating is that it used to produce its DSLRs (we know that Nikon is using new, more automated assembly lines for at least some of its Z series mirrorless cameras).

Note the additional comments in the yellow box at the bottom of this presentation slide.

Nikon notes its mirrorless camera sales volumes increased year-over-year, the percentage of revenue from its pro and hobbyist cameras increased ‘steadily’ and even says it saw a ‘better-than-expected market recovery from the impact of COVID-19.’

For its full FY2021 forecast, Nikon says it expects its Imaging Products Business to show ¥140B in revenue and an operating loss of ¥45B.

Moving forward, Nikon makes its plan for its Imaging Products Business clear: reduce business costs faster than the rate of shrinkage the camera market is experiencing and ‘Shift to a structure that secures profits constantly even when revenue drops.’ It hopes to reduce costs by more than ¥80B by the end of its FY2022 through ‘substantially lowering the breakeven point through improving productivity, production consolidation, headcount optimization and impairment losses of equipment.’ It also states it will be focusing on its pro and hobbyist products, which it wants to see as the bedrock of its Imaging Products Business. This assessment and approach is similar to the one Olympus has been taking for a few years now—downsize the business to match the market size, which is shrinking across the board.

Nikon also says it wants its Imaging Products Business to enter new fields, including more business-to-business deals. What exactly this looks like remains to be seen, as no details are given, but Nikon says it intends to ‘actively leverage [its] image processing, sensing technology’ and more.

If we’re to summarize this Q2 financial report into a single sentence, it’s this: Nikon plans to cut costs as much as possible to account for a clearly shrinking camera market while also focusing on its higher-end cameras and lenses, which are steadily increasing as a percentage of Nikon’s sales. This should come as good news to experienced Nikon shooters, particularly those who have already or are looking to dive into Nikon’s Z series mirrorless cameras and lenses; more cameras and lenses are on the way.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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