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Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips

20 Nov

The post Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

The golden hour is one of the most magical times of the day for photography with wonderful light at sunrise and sunset. Yet, have you ever challenged yourself to photograph around these times? You can still capture amazing photos outside the golden hour and here are some ways you can achieve this:

Shoot during the Blue Hour

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The blue hour is a fantastic window of opportunity where you can create some stunning images. It refers to the period of twilight when the sun is well below the horizon, and residual, indirect sunlight takes on a predominantly blue shade. The blue hour generally lasts for 20-30 minutes and occurs just after sunset and just before sunrise.

It is important to use a tripod when capturing images in low light. Sharper images will also result from using a tripod by minimizing camera shake when using a slower shutter speed. In terms of the best subjects to photograph during the blue hour, start with cityscapes, roads with street lights, roads with traffic, bridges, fairs, wharves, and marinas.

Include electric lights for dramatic effect and use the extra light to add interest to epic scenes. Most of all, be creative and capture the artificial and natural light together. The warmer tones of illuminated buildings can blend beautifully with the cool blue hues of the sky.

Shoot at night

capture-epic-photos-outside-the-golden-hour

Don’t be in a hurry to put the camera away after the blue hour. There are still more opportunities to take great photos outside the golden hour and blue hour with night photography.

Although the natural light will have faded away, other photographic moments awaken.

Regarding city scenes, the sky will appear darker, and as a result, it can help make other city landmarks and street lights stand out.

Using moonlight can be a brilliant way to capture epic scenes as it paints the landscape or photographing it within a wider frame. Then there is the night sky, which can present wonderfully scenic photos. You can shoot stars, star trails, and even the northern lights.

Combine any of these with the landscape, and they are a recipe for epic images.

Shoot in the midday sun

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Most people tend to avoid photography during the middle of the day, preferring to shoot during the golden hour. Well, challenge yourself to capture photos outside the Golden Hour by shooting at this time of day, and you can be greatly rewarded.

Although the light can indeed be harsh with the midday sun directly overhead, think outside the box. Subjects are well-illuminated, so look for colors that may stand out.

Blue skies can look great with cityscapes. Colorful buildings or flowers can look amazing with a backdrop of a clear blue sky or fluffy white clouds. Also, some cloud cover that reveals patterns of light over a nice landscape scene can look great.

Another option is to shoot the light reflecting indoors. You can head to your local market or capture the interior of a building. Both locations can be great for capturing images at midday.

Shoot when the sun is lower in the sky

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During the winter, daylight is reduced, and we all like to stay in and enjoy the comforts of our home. However, this is a great time to get out and be creative with your camera to capture some awe-inspiring, majestic winter images. At this time, the sun arcs lower in the sky, which is perfect for getting some memorable photos. As this happens throughout the day, you can get some good images at any time.

Watch how the sun stays low and casts long and dramatic shadows and capture this in your images. Use shadows to support your main subject and to give a sense of scale.

Shoot in the morning light

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One of the best times to take photos outside the golden hour is in the morning.

If you shoot after the hour following sunrise when the light is still good, you can get some great images. Whether you find yourself on a trip or in your local area, there is always a morning photography opportunity.

You can photograph landscapes or cityscapes by aiming your camera towards the sun whilst it is still rising. Alternatively, turn around and photograph the gorgeous light painting the land or city behind you.

If you are in a warmer climate, the temperature can be good at this time of day before it can get too hot to be carrying around all your camera equipment. If you like to photograph street scenes and people, head to some of the busier streets as more and more people will be around as the day warms up.

Look for any interesting activity and capture epic scenes of these subjects – they can really be worth the early morning start.

Conclusion

Remember, you can achieve awesome images when shooting at a variety of times outside the golden hour. Choose a time to take your camera out and go and do it!

Do you have a preferred time for taking amazing images besides the golden hour? Share the images you capture with us below.

The post Capture Epic Photos Outside the Golden Hour with these Easy Photography Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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How to Show More with Your Photographs by Thinking Outside the Frame

19 Feb

In its simplest form, a photograph is a representation of a very limited part of space at a very limited point in time. This article is about choosing which tiny bit of reality to represent and how that choice can make a photograph into much more than just a record of time.

01 photography tips thinking outside the frame

The most obvious elements of any photograph are the subject, the foreground, and the background. The light and the time it takes to create the photo are equally essential. In this article, I’ll be focusing on an ingredient which may be less obvious, sometimes even overlooked, but never absent: the frame.

What is the frame?

By frame, I don’t mean a picture frame, but the edges of the photo.

02 photography tips thinking outside the frame

Take a look at the photo above. What’s going on? There’s the subject (a cat) the foreground, a bench, the background (a pink wall) and a branch of some kind. So what does the frame have to do with all this?

The frame of a photograph is what separates the obvious from the inferred. It’s part of why a good photograph means different things to different people because that which is inferred is subjective.

Consider the photograph of the cat again. The cat is about to pounce, which means that there’s something going on outside the frame. Maybe another cat is walking by, or maybe there’s a delicious-looking bird on the ground.

What’s outside the frame is just as important

03 photography tips thinking outside the frame

What is left outside the frame can tell a story of its own or be an essential part of the subject of the photo? By creating tension between the obvious and the inferred you wield a powerful tool to make even better photographs. Every image has a relation to the rest of the world, even though the immediate surroundings aren’t obvious or don’t seem to add anything.

04 photography tips thinking outside the frame

So how do you start thinking outside the frame?

I will show you a few examples so you get the idea.

1 – Make it obvious

The obvious way is to make it clear that there is something outside the frame that isn’t being shown. The easiest way to do this is to capture an interesting gaze or photograph a detail.

05 photography tips thinking outside the frame

In the image above, the groom is not looking at the camera, but towards something more interesting outside the frame. For those who recognize the setting, it may be obvious that he is looking towards the church door, which will soon reveal the bride; for others, the interpretation could be different.

06 photography tips thinking outside the frame

These photos show a part of something larger. The hands suggest a person, and might even reveal something about that person. The spiraling tree creates a looping line that continues outside the frame.

2 – Tie the subject to the setting

The scene inside the frame can be tied to a larger setting without the subject directly or indirectly touching the frame. This can make the subject seem large or small, create an open or claustrophobic feeling, or give the surroundings a sense of continuity.

07 photography tips thinking outside the frame

Take a look at the photo above. By surrounding a tiny subject with a single, strong color, that color almost always feels like it continues on and on. In this picture, does it give you a sense of comfort or claustrophobia?

08 photography tips thinking outside the frame

The idea with the photo above is somewhat similar, but the feeling of it is quite different. Here is a playful animal in its seemingly limitless element, suggesting unlimited enjoyment. Or do you see something quite different?

3 – Use pattern or rhythm

By using a pattern or rhythm in the photo, you can create an effect that allows the viewer to imagine infinity. The idea is the same as in the example above, but the execution and effect are different. Here, the pattern or rhythm itself can be the subject, and it’s that subject that leads the viewer outside the frame.

09 photography tips thinking outside the frame

The pattern of cracked sea ice works like a block of color. But since it’s more interesting than just a single color, it can stand by itself and let the eye wander through the details in the photo and the mind continue beyond.

10 photography tips thinking outside the frame

A seascape like the one in the image above can suggest an infinitely large ocean just by showing an unbroken horizon. The ocean doesn’t only continue into the photo, though, it also continues sideways and beyond the edges of the photo. The rhythm of the clouds emphasizes this illusion.

4 – Reflections

Reflections are also an effective way of suggesting a wider world outside the constraints of the photograph. It’s a more direct way of pointing to the wider context.

11 photography tips thinking outside the frame

Concrete walls can suggest many things, but thanks to the reflection in the window it becomes quite clear that the photo is not taken in a concrete jungle, but in a verdant and sunny place. Reading the expression on the subject’s face becomes quite different thanks to the wider context.

Conclusion

Photography is always about choices, conscious or not. The more photography you do, the more deliberate your choices will become. Being aware of this gives you more control over your creative process. The creative decisions you can make based on those choices is what makes photography art.

How you frame your photographs is just one of the things to keep in mind when you photograph.

Do you pay attention to what you leave out when you take a photo? Do you have any examples or thoughts you’d like to share about how you’ve used the frame and what’s beyond as an element in your photography? I’d love to hear about it and see your photos in the comments below.

The post How to Show More with Your Photographs by Thinking Outside the Frame by Hannele Luhtasela-el Showk appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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Somewhere Outside of Time: 13 Classic Retro-Futuristic Architectural Visions

07 Sep

[ By SA Rogers in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

Retro-futuristic architecture seems to exist outside of time, perhaps in parallel universes where the versions of the future envisioned by their creators actually became reality. They combine design elements from the decades in which they were built with futuristic elements as the architects imagined them, recalling the science fiction of their respective eras, often seeming like remnants from movie sets. Many still stand in a rapidly changing world, feeling like portals to somewhere very far away.

Walden 7 by Ricardo Bofill

Built in 1975, this housing structure by Ricardo Bofill located outside Barcelona, Spain takes inspiration from the science fiction novel Walden Two by B.F. Skinner. It originally included 446 residences in 18 towers, resulting in a labyrinth organized around seven interconnecting interior courtyards. Bofill imagined that this structure would be a utopian urban residence addressing many of the problems of urban life, with space for gardens and social interaction as well as two swimming pools. The high rise still stands and functions as an apartment building, with some units combined to create larger spaces.

Palais Bulles by Antti Lovag

The strange and bulbous Palais Bulles, or Palace of Bubbles, was built in 1989 on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Though it’s often used as a setting for fashion shoots and film festival parties, architect Antti Lovag emphasizes that how the structure is inhabited is its most important aspect. “Whether for economic reasons or lack of technical solutions, human beings have confined themselves to cubes full of dead ends and angles that impede our movement and break our harmony.”

Monsanto House of the Future by Monsanto

Did you know that infamous agrochemical giant Monsanto (known for creating Agent Orange during the Vietnam War) built a ‘house of the future’ at Disneyland in 1957? Located at the entrance to Tomorrowland, the house was designed by Monsanto in collaboration with MIT and Disney Imagineers, showcasing their vision of what life would be like in 1987. Made of fiberglass, the house was elevated on a pedestal with the intention of allowing it to rotate. Everything was modular and made of synthetic materials. Monsanto’s House of the Future closed in 1967, and though it was scheduled to be demolished in one night, the wrecking ball bounced off its tough facade, and a 2-week demolition job was ultimately required to take it down.

Habitat 67 by Moshe Safdie

First built as a pavilion for the World’s Fair in 1967 after architect Moshe Safdie conceived it as his master’s thesis, Habitat 67 remains one of the most unusual buildings of its kind, featuring 146 residences and a network of interlocking forms and walkways. The architect wanted to maximize the amount of private space and natural environments within a small urban footprint, enhancing the quality of life with gardens, fresh air and views. It was intended to be the first phase of a much larger complex, but Safdie’s vision for futuristic affordable housing failed to proliferate due to the high per-unit cost of his design.

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Somewhere Outside Of Time 13 Classic Retro Futuristic Architectural Visions

[ By SA Rogers in Architecture & Houses & Residential. ]

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A Drunkard’s Dream: This Cloud Rains Tequila Whenever it’s Rainy Outside

11 Apr

[ By SA Rogers in Design & Guerilla Ads & Marketing. ]

It rains more in Berlin than it does in England, especially during the cold and dreary months of winter, so enticing Germans to vacation in Mexico with a cloud that literally rains tequila is probably pretty effective. And this isn’t just a cloud-shaped installation that pours a mist of tequila out of a showerhead or something equally predictable – it’s a real cloud of tequila condensation that turns liquid in response to vibration, timed to coincide with real-life rain outside.

United States-based creative agency LAPIZ teamed up wit the Mexico Tourism Board to create an ad specifically tailored to boost German tourism to the sunny, margarita-soaked nation. Installed in Urban Spree, a Berlin art gallery, the project mimics the look of natural clouds by containing condensation within a cumulus-shaped sculpture. You can see the mist rolling off the cloud in Instagram videos of the installation.

#tequilacloud Serving free shots of delicious Silver Tequila since 2016. Come to Urban Spree, Revaler Strasse 99 for a taste #mexico #travel #tequila #art #berlin

A post shared by Ernesto Adduci (@eadduci) on Mar 10, 2017 at 7:31am PST

this is how @pojpojberlin spends feierabend. with #tequilacloud @urban_spree come by. #pøjpøj #feierabend #feierabendtequila #mexico #olé #avocado #tequila

A post shared by pøj pøj (@pojpojberlin) on Mar 8, 2017 at 9:07am PST

Make it rain tequila. #tequila #cloud #artistic #installation #vapor #alcohol #mexico #agave #makeitrain #pouritup #kunst #innovation #wowfactor #cloudydrink #tequilacloud #liquid #tequilashots #shot #urbanspree #weather #cloudy #smoke #vape

A post shared by Cristina Zambet (@cristinazambet) on Mar 11, 2017 at 1:17pm PST

A flash of lightning heralds an oncoming tequila storm, and onlookers gather to hold a shot glass under the cloud. It’s the third year in a row that Lapiz teamed up with the tourism board to get Germans to Mexico, and it seems certain that this would be their most successful effort yet. Who doesn’t like free tequila? “This time, we combined the Mexican thing Germans love most, tequila, with the type of weather they like the least, rain, and created the Tequila Cloud,” they explain.

[ By SA Rogers in Design & Guerilla Ads & Marketing. ]

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10 Things to Photograph Indoors When There’s Bad Weather Outside

07 Apr

No matter where in the world you live, there are some seasons that are more conducive to outdoor photography than others. That said, bad weather is no excuse to stop learning about photography! Here are 10 beginning photography exercises to try the next time you’re cooped up indoors due to bad weather. Each exercise includes a subject theme, discussion about the type of skills you’ll practice with that particular subject, as well as some questions and/or ideas to walk through in order for you to really take your understanding to the next level.

1. Flowers

bad weather

Pick up an inexpensive bouquet of flowers the next time you’re at the grocery store and bring it home. Pop the flowers in a vase, and start shooting!

If you choose a bouquet with a range of colors (including white flowers if possible), you’ll be able to practice properly exposing your images across the dynamic range. Photographing flowers is also a great opportunity to play around with different apertures. If you’re currently shooting in Auto, pop your camera over into Aperture Priority mode, and give things a try. How does changing from f/2.0 to f/5.6 affect the image? Which look do you prefer?

2. Candles and/or a Fireplace

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There are a few different benefits to spending some time photographing a flame. Whether you’re photographing a collection of candles or a fireplace, try experimenting with different exposure lengths in Shutter Priority mode. Try both long and short exposure times, and also be sure to note how the shutter speed affects the overall exposure of your image. Does a longer shutter time translate to a lighter or a darker overall image? How could you balance out a longer shutter opening without overexposing the entire image?

Another benefit to photographing flames is that it also makes you consider composition in a way that many subjects do not, especially in terms of reflections. Try putting a mirror or other shiny surface underneath a candle and photographing it. How does the reflection of the flame affect the overall image? Do you want to include the reflection in your image, or do you prefer to crop it out?

3. Oil and Water

This simple project packs a big punch!

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Equipment and supplies

A macro lens will help you out tremendously here, but if you don’t have one, extension tubes are also a great option. This image was taken with a $ 15 set of extension tubes and a 50mm lens. Basically, all you need is a clear glass dish, two cups, colorful paper, water, and olive oil.

Setup

First, take your colorful paper, and set it on a table or counter. Then take your two cups and set them on top of the paper, several inches away from each other. Next, take your glass dish and set it on top of the cups, so that it’s elevated off of the colorful paper. Add a little water, then a little olive oil, and be ready to photograph the bubbles that appear. You may want to spend some time experimenting with photographing the glass dish at differing heights above the paper underneath. Experiment with different types of colorful paper; scrapbook paper is a great resource for this. Try differing amounts of oil and water, and see how those small changes affect your image.

This is a great opportunity to experiment with macro-like photography in a way that has a pretty big impact. If you are using extension tubes rather than a macro lens, keep in mind that your extension tubes may or may not work with your camera’s autofocus. If you’re having trouble getting the bubbles to come into focus, you may need to focus manually (try the LiveView focus technique).

4. Food

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Photographing food is a great opportunity to play around with styling, as well as post-processing. It’s my humble opinion that much of your direction in terms of styling and processing will come from the food itself. In this case, I had a rustic loaf of bread that was covered in different seeds. It reminded me of rustic, communal dinners, and so I wrapped it in a tea-towel and stuck it directly on my table (something that happens with fair frequency to loaves that have just come out of the oven around here). I also knew from the get-go that I’d apply a more matte post-processing technique than I usually use in portraits in order to echo the rustic feel of the bread.

On the other hand, what approach would you take to styling and photographing a sleek cheesecake? Or a classic fruit salad? This short little exercise allows you to push yourself in terms of styling and post-processing, trying out skills and techniques that you may not typically use, as well as spending some time thinking about what types of styling and post-processing would best represent the subject.

5. Window Silhouettes

bad weather

I don’t know about where you live, but around here it can often be rainy and sunny at the same time. If you find yourself faced with similar weather, it’s a great opportunity to try doing a window silhouette.

Window silhouettes are a great exercise if you are learning photography because it will help you understand how your camera sees light. If your camera is on auto, and you focus directly on your subject, what does your camera try to do? If you move your focal point off of your subject, what does your camera “see” then? Does it affect the focus of your image? What happens if you try out the different metering modes? Does one seem to be more effective than the others in creating a silhouette?

6. Food Coloring and Water

bad weather

Grab a tall glass or vase, fill it with water, and then drop a couple of drops of food coloring into it.

This is a simple and colorful way to examine both shutter speed and light. Try using a short shutter speed. What does the image look like? Try using a long shutter speed. How is that image different?

In addition, try shooting with all different types of light. The transparency of the water is a great opportunity to practice capturing backlit images.

7. Interiors

bad weather

You don’t need to have perfectly clean or perfectly decorated rooms in order to gain valuable experience and knowledge from photographing them. Just a pick a room and go for it.

Experiment with light sources. How does the final image look when you use only natural light? What happens when you use only overhead and/or floor lights with the curtains closed? How does the image look when you use a combination of natural light and accent lighting? Think both in terms of exposure, and also the color balance of the image. Which look do you personally prefer?

8. Books

bad weather

I’m a huge bookworm, so it’s no surprise that I really enjoy photographing books in all sorts of scenarios. I love the texture of the pages, I love the different colored spines. I love basically everything about books!

Photographing books is also a great way to learn about aperture. Pick any book, and crack it open. Look for a short passage that you enjoy. Set your camera to Aperture Priority mode, and start with the lowest number you’re able to select (f/4 or f/2.8 for example). Set your focal point to your desired passage, and shoot. How much of the image is in focus?

Now set your aperture to one or two numbers higher than your first setting. How much of the image is in focus this time? Continue shooting up and down your available aperture range, noticing how the image changes as you do so. When might you want to use an image with only a sentence or two in focus? When might you want an image that included more of the book in focus?

9. Pets

bad weather pets

Photographing a pet can often present many of the same challenges that you might experience when photographing children. Certainly, this will depend greatly on the type of animal you have as well as their temperament, but it holds true for our cat.

She moves quickly and is often not super interested or cooperative when I’m attempting to photograph her. So, trying to photograph our cat is a good opportunity to practice shooting candidly, as well as waiting patiently for just the right moment. Our cat is obviously never going to walk right in front of me, sit, and smile for a photo. Instead, it’s my responsibility to sit on the couch with my camera, waiting patiently. When she decides to come over and investigate, I’ll be waiting and ready. (Read: 9 Tips for Taking Better Photos of Cats)

10. Craft Supplies

bad weather

Craft supplies are a great tool for photographic exercises because they’re usually a good source of color. Play around with color and group items randomly. Then group similar colors together.

Next, pick one single item or color to focus on. Photograph it alone, as well as grouped with the others. Is the image stronger with only one color or with many? Do you prefer the colors to be randomized, or grouped together?

Conclusion

Have you tried any of these approaches? What other ideas do you have for bad weather, indoor photography exercises that would help beginners understand an element of photography better?

The post 10 Things to Photograph Indoors When There’s Bad Weather Outside by Meredith Clark appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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Why Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone is Good for Your Photography

23 Feb

Getting outside your comfort zone is good for your photography. The single, biggest factor that has helped me to improve my photography was becoming comfortable with being uncomfortable. This has been across all areas of photographic work, from weddings, corporate through to my absolute passion, travel photography.

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Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 15

Let me explain. From the very beginning I had the same concerns as many beginners in photography, where do I even start? I had built-up an imaginary wall about how I would understand the theory and mechanics of the photographic process as well as being creative in how I approached my photo work. All questions that only served to stop me from getting out there and experimenting so that I could learn by doing and implementing the theory I had poured over so many times.

The moment I let go of concern over the results I would achieve, and more importantly, what other people thought of my images, was the moment I felt free to experiment and make mistakes. That’s where the real learning happens, as I soon discovered.

Play the long game plan

I also realized early on, that becoming proficient in photography is a long game plan. It doesn’t happen overnight. It also requires effort and focus to be able to approach each challenge with a willingness to keep trying until understanding and outcome produce results that meet expectation. After my first year of taking photos, I had improved, and that improving continues to this day. Why? Because I continue to push myself outside of my comfort zone to improve as an image maker.

There is nothing better on the road to discovery and learning than feeling like you have a good understanding of what you are doing while enjoying the breakthroughs of understanding. And ultimately, capturing the images you set out to. However, it is important to remember that staying comfortable in what you are doing and how you are doing it, will reduce your growth and further understanding of different types of photography or more specifically, different approaches.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 20

A few years ago this theory was clarified for me while I was working in Antarctica. We were fortunate to have two National Geographic Photographers on the ship with us who were generous enough to do a couple of presentations during days at sea. One point, in particular, helped me to understand in a different way, what I had already been doing since the early days of my image making. And the beauty is, you can apply this approach to most scenarios, be it landscape, travel, wedding, portrait, or commercial photography.

The 80/20 rule

Devote 80% of your image making time to getting the images you set out to do. Play it safe to a certain degree to be sure you come home with your planned shots. Then for the remaining 20% of the time, throw caution to the wind and experiment with no expectation of any outcome. If you think about this approach, 20% of your image making time adds up to quite a bit. Pushing yourself with the 20% will not necessarily lead you to capture amazing new images every time, but it will allow you to have little discoveries along the way that can add up to thinking of new ways or approaches for the future.

Experimenting with shutter speed, white balance, aperture, ISO, focal length, and movement are all options that can result in new ways of doing and seeing things. Ultimately, this will help you to understand the best approach to a given scenario with controlled, positive results.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 10

The list of possibilities is endless. But without regard for the outcome, you are left with a more innocent, concern-free approach to getting creative and pushing the limits of your knowledge and current space of understanding.

Side benefits of learning outside your comfort zone

The side benefits of further learning of my chosen craft, even if they seem unrelated, have also helped with my ability to shoot under pressure. In regards to my travel photography, I have attributed my ability to get solid images under challenging circumstance with limited time, to having shot and assisted on a lot of weddings. For me, weddings have proven to be the ultimate space for growth with my image making ability, and it is easy to see why.

When shooting weddings you have no control over weather, lighting, time of day, or the environment you are shooting in. You have the responsibility of capturing images in often very challenging environments. It also means you are shooting a lot, with purpose, which I’ve always been a big advocate of for helping improve your photography.

Now I’m not suggesting to go out and shoot a few weddings just to help improve your photography in other areas. Photographing weddings is something you have to want to do. You especially have to respect the responsibility that comes with taking on such a big day in people’s lives. You have no second chance and have to be at the top of your game to consistently get it right. Over time, though, assisting or working as a second shooter for an established wedding professional would be a good way to test the waters to see if this is an area of photography you would like to pursue.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 23

Some practical exercises

You can, of course, replicate these same scenarios without the time pressure or expectation of outcome only a client can have.

An option would be to visit and photograph the interiors of some local churches to gain an understanding of what it means to shoot in low light. Then slowly walk from the inside of the church to the outside (assuming this is during daylight hours) and adjust your exposure to achieve correctly exposed images over what will be a massive change in light levels. This is an extreme example but there will absolutely be situations in the future where the learnings gained from this type of exercise will be put to good use.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 02

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 01

Another great exercise is to visit a city (which could be yours) and set up your camera just before sunset when there is still plenty of light. Then slowly take images of the same scene over the next two hours as the sun sets and the lights come on in the city. The best option for this exercise is to have your camera on a tripod so the scene remains the same and you are able to get a solid idea of how the changing light conditions affect your results.

This exercise not only helps you to understand the process of changing exposure on your camera but gives you a solid idea of the mix between natural and man-made light during the change over from night to day.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 06

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 07

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 08

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 09

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 11

Visit your local beach maybe an hour and a half before sunset and take images during the changing light conditions. You will see a number of things during this experiment as there are big changes in lighting and color. You will have a greater understanding of what you need to do to continue making correctly exposed images based on the changing lighting conditions which would be different to the city example I gave earlier. Look closely at the changing color and corresponding white balance and the effect it has on your images.

To take this a step further, take your kids or some friends down to the beach and use them to experiment with taking portraits at this time of day.

Getting off Automatic

If you are currently using your camera on an automatic setting, you can start to experiment with a more manual approach to your image making. Let’s assume for a moment, you are using automatic settings for everything on your camera, aperture, ISO, and shutter speed.

Play with aperture

One option would be to experiment with Aperture Priority (setting your camera so you take control of the aperture). You can experiment and start to see what different effects you will have in your images by using specific apertures. Set up an object, focus on it and then cycle through all of the different apertures to see what happens. This is a fantastic exercise to apply to portraiture so you have a better understanding of what results you will achieve based on your chosen aperture.

85mm lens on a full frame camera, ISO 2000, 1/50th, at f/18.

Shot with an 85mm lens on a full frame camera, ISO 2000, 1/320th, at f/8.

85mm lens on a full frame camera, ISO 2000, 1/2500th, at f/2.8.

Play with focal length

Changing focal lengths on a fixed subject is also a great exercise to help develop your learning. The portraits below are perfect examples of a fixed subject with fixed camera settings. The only change was moving backward while zooming in (going to a longer focal length) the subject. The difference between the resulting images is clear.

24mm lens on a full frame camera, ISO 1000, 1/250th, at f/5.6.

50mm lens on a full frame camera, ISO 1000, 1/250th, at f/5.6.

210mm lens on a full frame camera, ISO 1000, 1/250th, at f/5.6.

Play with shutter speed

The same can be done with shutter speed. A popular subject for longer exposures is waterfalls, allowing you to blur the water to achieve a misty look. Keep in mind, a tripod is essential for this type of image. When you have time, find a local waterfall or flowing stream (preferably on an overcast day). Set up your camera on a tripod and cycle through the shutter speeds to see the differing results you will achieve based on long and short exposures and the effect it has on the water.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 14

Practice, practice, practice

The above exercises may seem a little boring, but it is only through continued practice that you will understand with confidence, what you need to do to achieve the images you want. Over time, and through experience, it becomes an instinctive response to what is in front of you based on knowing, or having an idea of what result you are after.

There are many benefits to exploring locations in your area. You are able to revisit them on a number of occasions during different weather, times of day, and different seasons. You can really test yourself and build your understanding and experience in dealing with these differing light and brightness scenarios.

Travel photography

The other area where you may have limited time and no control over the variables earlier mentioned is travel photography. Often when traveling, these limitations will leave you feeling a level of pressure to get the image. It is the practice, understanding, and development you implement before you go traveling that will help you capture images with confidence, even when the time of day and lighting are not at their best.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 29

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 30

For example, if you’re traveling to Africa to photograph wildlife, you’ll be using long lenses a lot more than if you are doing a church tour of Italy where wide lenses would often be the order of the day. The important thing here is to push yourself and get out there as much as possible to replicate, as best you can, the type of shooting you will be doing in order to build that skill set before you travel.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 26

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 25

Challenges of travel

Travel also often leaves you tired due to the realities of what you need to do to get to your location or full days trying to see and experience as much as possible. Try to be as healthy and fit before you go in order to maximize all the photo opportunities traveling can bring. There is nothing worse than coming home feeling like you have missed opportunities due to needing to rest or not using your time efficiently.

Successful travel photographers are always well-researched and prepared to go as much as possible. The know that they need to maximize their time in order to come home with a full body of work that will help justify all that goes into a travel gig. This usually means starting before sunrise and working through to night time to capture specific locations in all their various forms.

This has been the case for me on many occasions. When working in Antarctica and South Georgia, we had a lot of exploring time in the zodiacs (small inflatable boats). On one particular occasion, we were advised of a one hour cruise which turned into 3.5 hours due to the many photo opportunities we had. It was a cold day and snowed the entire time. That added to the challenge of shooting, often with a long lens from a moving craft amongst 10 other people also working hard to get the shot in the confines of a small boat. Once we were all loaded safely back on board, almost all participants went inside immediately, either for a warm shower or warm drink, and rightly so, it was very cold.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 17

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 21

Another photographer and I stayed outside the ship to see if there were any other photo opportunities that presented themselves before we pulled anchor and continued on our way. The images above were just a few that made the effort completely worthwhile. We pushed ourselves and were rewarded with many great images which no one else captured. We were only outside for a further 30 minutes, however, the response from fellow passengers upon seeing our images confirmed we had made the right decision to continue pushing on and taking advantage of the conditions in front of us. This has been a consistent factor with all of my photography based trips over the years.

When you travel, you are surrounded by so many photographic opportunities. Remember to take full advantage of these and everything that travel offers. Of course the most important thing is to enjoy yourself, however, if images are a top priority, be sure to take advantage of the time you have and be out and about as much as possible.

Getting Outside Your Comfort Zone 40

Conclusion

It is also worth researching other photographers to see what they have done in the same locations you are planning to visit. Look at what you like and don’t like, then try and photograph the same scene in a way not yet done by others.

Growth in photography, as with most things, comes from pushing yourself to improve, going beyond your comfort zone and identifying areas you can experiment with and learn from.

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Sony launches Cyber-shot HX350 with 50x zoom outside US

26 Dec

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Sony has launched the Cyber-shot HX350 in European markets, offering a 50x zoom lens and 20.4MP BSI CMOS sensor like its HX300 predecessor. In fact, very little has changed compared to the previous model – as best we can tell, it adds an up-to-date BIONZ X processor, lock-on AF and a new blue ‘Zeiss’ badge on the same 24-1200mm equiv. F2.8-6.3 lens.

It continues to offer a built-in EVF, optical image stabilization, 3″ tilting 921k-dot LCD, 1080/60p video recording and 10 fps burst shooting. Sony Germany lists the HX350 at €449 with availability in January 2017.

Press Release:

That’s so close! The compact 50x super zoom Cyber-shot™ HX350 is big on imaging power

ZEISS® Vario-Sonnar T* lens with 50x optical zoom and 100x Clear Image Zoom[i] for awesome close-ups
Shoot like a pro with manual controls and electronic viewfinder in a compact DSLR-style body
Back-illuminated Exmor RTM CMOS sensor with 20.4 effective megapixels and BIONZ X™ image processing engine
Optical SteadyShot™ and Intelligent Active Mode for smooth, stable stills and Full HD movies
Sharp, speedy focus of moving subjects with Lock-on AF and DMF (Direct Manual Focus)

From expansive landscapes to exotic wildlife and family portraits: every scene’s covered with the Cyber-shot HX350 high-zoom camera from Sony.

Discerning photographers graduating from smartphone snaps will love the mix of easy-to-use features and DSLR-inspired styling. Fitting beautifully in your hand, the HX350 packs big camera performance into a compact body – for limitless creative possibilities with a fixed lens.

You’re good for any shooting situation, with the ZEISS® Vario-Sonnar T* lens offering a huge 50x optical zoom range – corresponding to 24mm wide angle to 1200mmsuper telephoto (equivalent in 35mm format).Clear Image Zoom doubles maximum magnification to a breathtaking 100xi, bringing distant buildings, people and animals jaw-droppingly close.

Camera shake is the enemy of high-zoom shooting, as any pro knows. Optical SteadyShot cuts handheld wobbles for crisper stills, rapidly shifting a group of lens elements to correct for the slightest hand tremors. Intelligent Active Mode keeps Full HD videos equally sharp and blur-free with Sony’s proprietary frame analysis technology.

Enthusiasts will be impressed by the high-resolution back-illuminated Exmor R CMOS sensor with 20.4 effective megapixels and speedy BIONZ X image processing engine. Even if you’re shooting handheld indoors or in low light, you’ll value crisp, low noise images and pristine Full HD video footage.

The easy to use Cyber-shot HX350 is loaded with serious shooting options. There’s a manual ring for smooth adjustment of zoom/focus, plus an easily-accessible mode dial and custom button for quick adjustment of favourite settings. And with full P/A/S/M controls, you’ve got all the exposure options you need to craft stunning pictures and Full HD videos. Movie-makers will also welcome the extra detail of a 24p shooting mode that gives footage that authentically cinematic look.

The choice is yours when it comes to framing shots with confidence. Look through the camera’s high-contrast electronic viewfinder – just like you’d expect on a DSLR – or switch to the manually tiltable 7.5cm (3.0-type) LCD with 921k dot resolution.

Extra shooting refinements include Motion Shot Video that traces your tennis serve or golf swing as a split-second series of superimposed images. After shooting, connect the camera to your 4K television for a big, beautiful view of your photos. Support for TRILUMINOS™ Colour on compatible BRAVIA™ TVs ensures still shots bursting with vivid, vibrant colours.

[i] At optical wide-end

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX350 specifications

Price
MSRP	€450
Body type
Body type	SLR-like (bridge)
Body material	Composite
Sensor
Max resolution	5184 x 3456
Image ratio w:h	1:1, 4:3, 3:2, 16:9
Effective pixels	20 megapixels
Sensor photo detectors	21 megapixels
Sensor size	1/2.3" (6.17 x 4.55 mm)
Sensor type	BSI-CMOS
Processor	BIONZ X
Color space	sRGB
Color filter array	Primary Color Filter
Image
ISO	Auto, 80-3200 (up to 12800 in Multi-Frame NR mode)
Boosted ISO (maximum)	12800
Image stabilization	Optical
Uncompressed format	No
JPEG quality levels	Fine, standard
File format	JPEG (Exif v2.3)
Optics & Focus
Focal length (equiv.)	24–1000 mm
Optical zoom	41.7×
Maximum aperture	F2.8–6.3
Autofocus	Contrast Detect (sensor) Multi-area Center Selective single-point Single Continuous Face Detection Live View
Autofocus assist lamp	Yes
Digital zoom	Yes (2x)
Manual focus	Yes
Normal focus range	1 cm (0.39″)
Macro focus range	1 cm (0.39″)
Screen / viewfinder
Articulated LCD	Tilting
Screen size	3″
Screen dots	921,600
Touch screen	No
Screen type	TFT LCD
Live view	Yes
Viewfinder type	Electronic
Viewfinder coverage	100%
Viewfinder resolution	201,600
Photography features
Minimum shutter speed	30 sec
Maximum shutter speed	1/4000 sec
Exposure modes	Program Aperture Priority Shutter Priority Manual
Scene modes	High Sensitivity Night Scene Handheld Twilight Night Portrait Landscape Portrait Soft Skin Anti Motion Blur Beach Snow Fireworks Advanced Sports Shooting Gourmet Pet Mode
Built-in flash	Yes
Flash range	8.50 m (at Auto ISO)
External flash	No
Flash modes	Off, auto, fill, slow sync, advanced, rear sync
Drive modes	Single Continuous Self-timer Bracketing (Exposure, WB)
Continuous drive	10.0 fps
Self-timer	Yes (2 or 10 sec, portrait)
Metering modes	Multi Center-weighted Spot
Exposure compensation	-2–3 (at 1/3 EV steps)
WB Bracketing	Yes
Videography features
Format	MPEG-4, AVCHD
Modes	1920 x 1080 @ 60p / 28 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital 1920 x 1080 @ 60i / 24 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital 1920 x 1080 @ 60i / 17 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital 1920 x 1080 @ 24p / 24 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital 1920 x 1080 @ 24p / 17 Mbps, AVCHD, MTS, H.264, Dolby Digital 1440 x 1080 @ 30p / 12 Mbps, MP4, H.264, AAC
Microphone	Stereo
Speaker	Mono
Storage
Storage types	SD/SDHC/SDXC + Memory Stick Pro Duo
Connectivity
USB	USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)
HDMI	Yes (micro-HDMI)
Microphone port	No
Headphone port	No
Physical
Environmentally sealed	No
Battery	Battery Pack
Battery description	NB-BX1 lithium-ion battery & charger
Battery Life (CIPA)	300
Weight (inc. batteries)	652 g (1.44 lb / 23.00 oz)
Dimensions	130 x 93 x 103 mm (5.12 x 3.66 x 4.06″)
Other features
Orientation sensor	Yes

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Get Outside Your Photography Comfort Zone to Learn and Grow as a Photographer

06 Sep

As photographers, we usually start out photographing everything and anything. All subjects are game as we explore our new found passion. When we grow and get more serious about our craft, we often try to find our unique place in the industry. Our niche, our comfort zone, where we can specialize and make a name for ourselves.

This is a good thing! A photographer that has a unique niche is more memorable than a photographer that covers every subject. It’s better to be the dog portrait guy, or the black and white waterfall girl, than to be forgettable.

Convict Lake California by Anne McKinnell

One of my favourite things to photograph: water scenes at twilight.

But just because you’ve specialized in a particular area of photography doesn’t mean you can’t continue to explore your craft. There is much to be learned from photographing other things, and applying any lessons learned to your niche. In fact, there is much you can learn from photographing things that you specifically don’t like to shoot.

Get out of your photography comfort zone

So I challenge you to come up with a short list of things you don’t like to photograph, and then give them a try. Remember, you don’t have to be good at it. Don’t worry about trying to create a masterpiece. You’re not going to show these photos to anyone. But, by getting outside of your comfort zone and giving yourself the permission to play, you’re bound to learn something along the way.

Elephant in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania by Anne McKinnell

Applying lessons learned about shadow and light in portrait photography to wildlife photography.

Afraid of portraits? Photograph one

For example, when I did this exercise, the thing on the top of my list was portraits. I’ve always been somewhat terrified of doing portraits! Also on my list was sports, cars, and architecture.

It was serendipitous when a friend of mine asked me to photograph her newborn. As the terror swept through me, I remembered my list and realized I should take the opportunity. Of course I advised her to hire a real newborn photographer since I had no experience in this area. But I still tried, and I made some images that were pretty good. But more importantly, I learned some things that I could apply to the areas of photography I was more interested in, like landscapes and wildlife.

Working inside was new to me and since I didn’t own any lights, I worked with natural light from the window. As I positioned my subjects around the room, I noticed how the light fell on their faces, and learned to pay very close attention to the direction of the light. I also noticed how important it was not to have any distracting things in the background, which also applies to many other areas of photography.

Using rim lighting and non-distracting backgrounds (learned doing portraits) in wildlife photography.

Try sports photography

The second thing on my list of things I wasn’t interested in photographing was sports. So I headed up to the local university where there is always something happening on a weekend, and found a rugby game to photograph.

I learned something very important that day. You see, I don’t know a thing about rugby, and it quickly became obvious that I couldn’t capture a special moment, because I had no idea when it was going to happen. I had to sit and watch, and try to figure out how the game worked, and only then did I have a chance.

I didn’t make any good images that day, but I sure learned a lesson that I apply to wildlife photography all the time. I sit and watch, and learn the behaviour of the animals before I try to photograph them. That way I can anticipate what is going to happen, and come away with a photograph that captures a special moment in time.

Lion and cub at Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania by Anne McKinnell

Anticipating the special moments in wildlife photography.

How about architecture photography?

Another thing on my list at the time I did this exercise was architecture, but after playing with it for awhile I discovered a new passion. Now I love photographing architecture. One thing I learned is that most architectural subjects are inherently symmetrical, and while the rule of thirds works, symmetrical compositions work really well too. Now I apply this principle to other subjects that are inherently symmetrical as well.

Yucca at White Sands National Monument, New Mexico by Anne McKinnell

Using a symmetrical composition in landscape photography.

Challenge yourself! Give yourself time to play! Remember that this is an exercise just for you, to help you explore your craft and grow as a photographer.

Exploring subjects is just one way to accelerate your photography learning curve. (It’s a great way of finding your niche too!) For more ways to speed up the learning curve, check out my eBook “8 Ways to Accelerate Your Photography.”

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An Exercise For You to Practice Depth of Field Without Going Outside

01 Apr

lead-photo-Vickie-Lewis-Photography-for-dps

Many photographers, especially when starting out, have a difficult time understanding depth of field. I also hear quite often that photographers are waiting for nice weather to get out and shoot. So, here’s a fun exercise you can do at home, in any weather, that will help you understand the finer aspects of depth of field.

Depth of field is determined by which aperture you choose, what focal length you’re using, and the distance between the camera and the subject. In this example, we’ll explore depth of field using a 100mm lens.

To set up

Find between one and three small objects you can photograph. I found three sports water bottles with balls on the top to shoot. Next, you need some studio space. A patio door or very wide window works well.

Your next step is to set up your object, or objects, in front of the window and to place your camera in position. The object and camera should be parallel to the window.

This is how I set up my camera and objects.

I put the first ball, the soccer ball, about 12 inches in front of the cabinet. Then I put the second ball, the baseball, about 24 inches in front of that. I put the third object, the basketball, 24 inches in front of the next object, and finally I set my camera about two feet in front of the last object.

You’ll need to play a little bit to see what works best for you. It will vary depending on the size of the object you are shooting, and the focal length you are using. You want to be able to focus on all three objects, and take a photo of them without moving your camera, so play for a minute. Focus on the first object and make sure you can see all three objects in the frame. Then focus on the second and make sure you can still see them all. Lastly, do it with the third one, too.

Set your camera on either aperture priority or manual exposure, and use the widest aperture you have. I chose f/2.8. Your lens might not have that aperture available, if so f/4 or f/4.5 will be just fine.

Shoot wide opened focusing on each object in turn

Now, without changing anything but your focus, take a photo of each of the three objects.

200__depth_of_field_f-2.8

This photo was shot at f/2.8 while focused on the object closest to the camera, the basketball. Notice the narrow depth of field, in other words, how blurry the background is.

201__depth_of_field_f-2.8-f-2.8

This was also shot at f/2.8, but this time, I focused on the middle object, the baseball. Notice that it is blurry in front and in back.

202__depth_of_field_f-2.8

This photo was also shot at f/2.8, but I focused on the soccer ball. I did not change camera position nor did I change lenses. Notice the depth of field, but also notice the change in perspective. Can you see that more of the cabinet is in the photograph?

Next shoot with a small aperture

Now, let’s try something a little different. Instead of shooting at your widest f-stop, shoot at your smallest, which means a higher number, like f/32 or f/16.

205__depth_of_field_-f-32

Here is the same situation. The camera hasn’t moved, but the aperture is now at f/32. The focus is on the basketball, but look how much is sharp.

204__depth_of_field_-f-32

Look closely. The aperture is still at f/32, but the focus has changed to the baseball. Notice the basketball is more out of focus, but the soccer ball in the back looks pretty sharp.

203__depth_of_field_-f-32

Above is the third example. The focus is on the soccer ball.

You can practice each of these things with different f/stops to see the difference between f/4, f/8, f/11, f/16 and f/32. Each choice will change the depth of field.

Change the distance to the subject

209__depth_of_field_-f-2.8

In the above photograph, I moved the camera closer to the baseball and shot at f/2.8. Practice isolating the elements and see what happens. Notice how the baseball really stands out, and look at the background. By isolating the baseball with a very narrow depth of field, the background becomes really out of focus. This tool is very helpful to clean up backgrounds.

210__depth_of_field_-f-2.8

Then I changed my focus to the soccer ball. The aperture is still at f/2.8. What do you notice about the background?

213__depth_of_field_-f-32

In the shot above the soccer ball is still in the original position, about a foot away from the cabinet. Notice how sharp the background is – this was shot at f/32.

214__depth_of_field_-f-11

Now, notice how we start to lose detail in the cabinet behind. This image above was shot at f/11.

215__depth_of_field_-f-2.8

Finally, by shooting at f/2.8, and without moving the position of the soccer ball or the background, the background has become more out of focus and less distracting.

Take some times and practice this at home. So what you’ve learned here is a great way to practice depth of field at home–even on a rainy day! So take out your camera, find some small objects to shoot and start practicing.

Please share in the comments below how controlling the depth of field could impact how you shoot. What did you learn by doing this exercise?

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Outside The Blocks: 12 Coldly Abandoned Ice Factories

06 Mar

[ By Steve in Abandoned Places & Architecture. ]

abandoned-ice-factory-1a
Ice ain’t all it’s cracked up to be and neither are these obsolete & abandoned factories that once made it, as these 12 examples coldly show.

abandoned-ice-factory-1c

abandoned-ice-factory-1b

Judging by their architecture alone, many abandoned ice factories can be dated back to the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries – an era before the advent of economical household and commercial refrigeration. Home iceboxes, icehouses, fishing boats and ice cream producers had to acquire ice from somewhere, and that somewhere was the local ice factory.

abandoned-ice-factory-1d

abandoned-ice-factory-fire-1a

abandoned-ice-factory-fire-1b

Take Crystal Ice in Sacramento, California. Built in the early 1920s, the iconic local landmark was gutted by fire in November of 2015, likely derailing or at least substantially affecting extant plans for redevelopment as the Ice Blocks urban retail spaces project. Flickr user Jim Jackson (AxonJaxon) captured the former ice factory in comparatively better days – February of 2014 to be exact.

Nice House

abandoned-ice-factory-2b

abandoned-ice-factory-2a

The former Consolidated Ice Company Factory No. 2 located in Pittsburgh, PA’s Lawrenceville neighborhood opened in 1907 and closed in 1951. Hard to believe the factory wasn’t bought, demolished or re-purposed over the subsequent half-century but hey, such is life in the Rust Belt. On the bright side, the ice factory and its associated two-story office building was added to the National Register of Historic Places in the year 2000 and a portion is now being used by Ice House studios.

Chilling

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abandoned-ice-factory-3b

abandoned-ice-factory-3c

Flickr user Rolfen captured the ruins of an abandoned ice factory in Öjersjö (near Gothenburg), Sweden in April of 2010. The photographer’s crisply detailed HDR images don’t detract from the overwhelming eeriness of the place – if anything, they enhance it!

Icy Hot

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abandoned-ice-factory-4b

You’d think a place like Sharjah in the blisteringly-hot United Arab Emirates would do whatever it takes to keep their ice factory functioning… well think again. The abandoned Kalba Ice Factory now functions as an art exhibit space, presumably air conditioned.

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abandoned-ice-factory-4d

The 2015 Sharjah Biennial 12 held at the abandoned ice factory featured a series of artificial columns composed of “natural elements such as leaves, bark, shells, coral and dead birds, alongside human consumer products in the form of plastics and deformed sport shoes.” Wait, dead birds??

Posts Tagged ‘Outside’

Shoot during the Blue Hour

Shoot at night

Shoot in the midday sun

Shoot when the sun is lower in the sky

Shoot in the morning light

Conclusion

What is the frame?

What’s outside the frame is just as important

So how do you start thinking outside the frame?

1 – Make it obvious

2 – Tie the subject to the setting

3 – Use pattern or rhythm

4 – Reflections

Conclusion

Walden 7 by Ricardo Bofill

Palais Bulles by Antti Lovag

Monsanto House of the Future by Monsanto

Habitat 67 by Moshe Safdie

Next Page – Click Below to Read More: Somewhere Outside Of Time 13 Classic Retro Futuristic Architectural Visions

1. Flowers

2. Candles and/or a Fireplace

3. Oil and Water

Equipment and supplies

Setup

4. Food

5. Window Silhouettes

6. Food Coloring and Water

7. Interiors

8. Books

9. Pets

10. Craft Supplies

Conclusion

Play the long game plan

The 80/20 rule

Side benefits of learning outside your comfort zone

Some practical exercises

Getting off Automatic

Play with aperture

Play with focal length

Play with shutter speed

Practice, practice, practice

Travel photography

Challenges of travel

Conclusion

That’s so close! The compact 50x super zoom Cyber-shot™ HX350 is big on imaging power

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX350 specifications

Get out of your photography comfort zone

Afraid of portraits? Photograph one

Try sports photography

How about architecture photography?

To set up

Shoot wide opened focusing on each object in turn

Next shoot with a small aperture

Change the distance to the subject

Nice House

Chilling

Icy Hot

Next Page – Click Below to Read More: Outside The Blocks 12 Coldly Abandoned Ice Factories

Want More? Click for Great Related Content on WebUrbanist:

Played Out: 10 Cheerless Abandoned Toy Factories

Imploded: 8 Burned Out & Abandoned Fireworks Factories

You’re Fired: 9 Smokin’ Hot Abandoned Match Factories

Next Page – Click Below to Read More:
Somewhere Outside Of Time 13 Classic Retro Futuristic Architectural Visions

Next Page – Click Below to Read More:
Outside The Blocks 12 Coldly Abandoned Ice Factories