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Ins and outs of ISO: where ISO gets complex

17 Apr

Fujifilm’s GFX 50S stops adding analog amplification when it gets to ISO 1600, with all ISOs above that using lighter and lighter tone curves. This means that, by ISO 12,800, there are three stops of fully recoverable highlights that would have been lost if the camera had applied more analog gain, making it possible to produce a very different rendering of the scene.

Fujfilm GFX 50S | ISO 12,800 | 1/90 sec | F2.8 | GF 63mm F2.8 R WR
Photo: Dan Bracaglia

Most people recognize that ISO establishes a connection between exposure and image lightness. As we saw in part one, ISO only connects the input and the JPEG output, without specifying anything what should happen in-between. The important takeaways from the previous article are:

  • ISO relates exposure to final image lightness by whatever means the manufacturer choses
  • ISO is not just analog amplification, and doesn’t dictate what happens at the Raw level

This provides plenty of freedom for manufacturers to use different combinations of analog amplification and tone curve, so long as a given exposure results in the expected lightness.

This is important because analog amplification can help reduce noise but it also reduces the dynamic range that gets retained. So it can sometimes make sense to keep amplification low and do more of the lightening using digital processing, rather than reducing the dynamic range of the images you’re capturing.

Tailoring the highlight response of JPEGs

Before the 2006 definition of ISO was adopted, cameras used the same tone curve for each ISO setting and added a stop of amplification each time you changed the ISO setting (in part due to lack of processing power). The following diagram is based on the tone curve and measured lightness levels from an Olympus camera.

Before 2006 most cameras did increase lightening by increasing analog amplification with each ISO step. They used the same tone curve for all ISO settings.

Once the ISO definition changed, it allowed the Olympus E-620 and the models up to the present day to use the base level of amplification but with ISO 200 exposures. This new ISO 200 mode was similarly noisy to the one on the older cameras, despite using lower analog gain – because most of the noise was photon shot noise, which directly relates to the illumination levels and exposure, not amplification. However, this new way of working afforded an extra stop of highlight capture that was previously amplified to the point of clipping.

If you ignore the exposure implications and give ISO 100 and ISO 200 modes the same exposure, you end up with identical values in the Raw files.

After 2006, this changed. Olympus, for instance, used ISO 200 levels of exposure but without any increase in amplification. This provided an extra stop of highlight capture, with no significant increase in noise, compared to the old ISO 200. All the higher ISOs used the same tone curve.

Many of its cameras indicate that ISO 100 is an expansion, or ‘pull’ mode, despite being the same as the ISO 100 setting on its older models.

All the ISO settings above 200 use the same tone curve, along with one stop less amplification than in older models. Interestingly, the ISO 100 mode is sometimes listed as an expansion mode on some Olympus cameras, because it clips highlights sooner than the other ISO modes (despite being exactly the same as the ‘full’ ISO 100 mode on older models).

DR Modes

Taking this logic further, some cameras have Dynamic Range modes that combine less analog amplification with tone curves that incorporate more highlight information.

Canon’s Highlight Tone Priority and Ricoh’s Highlight Correction DR modes both do this: using one stop less amplification than standard mode to preserve the highlight data that would otherwise be amplified to clipping. The side-effect of this is that the lowest available ISO setting goes up by a stop when you engage these modes.

Fujifilm takes this a step further, offering three Dynamic Range settings. The table below shows the relative levels of amplification and how they combine with exposure levels for the different DR modes:

DR100 DR200 DR400

ISO 200
exposure

1X

ISO 400
exposure

2X 1X
ISO 800
exposure
4X 2X 1X
ISO 1600
exposure
8X 4X 2X
This table shows a simplification of the amplification level being applied at each DR mode and ISO setting. The colored boxes are the modes shown in the next diagram.

Another way of looking at it is that the DR modes’ tone curves require less and less exposure to correctly render middle gray, so are considered to be higher ISO settings.

This shows the ‘base ISOs’ of the three DR modes, which require less and less exposure to achieve the expected image lightness but keep amplification at its minimal setting, capturing one or two additional stops of highlight data.

Because most of the noise in an ‘ISO 800’ shot comes the randomness of the light you captured (which is dictated by the exposure used), there’s very little noise difference between using DR100 and DR400 modes with an ISO 800 exposure, but the DR400 shot has two stops more highlight information.

Because there’s no connection between ISO and amplification, and because the sensors it uses are highly ISO invariant, Fujifilm is able to offer a series different ISO modes with the sensor’s amplifier in its ‘base ISO’ state.

This can be useful for Raw-shooting photographers: the DR200 and DR400 modes essentially let you expose one or two stops to the right (ie shifting exposure to include highlights that would otherwise be lost), while maintaining a comprehensible preview image. Snapping a quick DR400 mode image lets you check which additional highlights will be captured, without the rest of the image becoming too dark to interpret.

High ISOs without additional amplification

At higher ISOs, there are some brands that stop applying additional amplification after a certain point, and produce all subsequent ISO settings using digital processing.

The pros and cons of amplification

Most cameras can capture their widest dynamic range at ‘base ISO’: the setting with the least amplification.

Adding amplification helps diminish the impact of any electronic noise added after the amplification step (downstream read noise), and boosts the output of the sensor to a level that’s well matched to the analogue to digital converter (ADC).

However, the sensor response remains unchanged, and any additional amplification beyond this ‘base’ level also pushes some of the initially captured signal to the point where it clips, this reduces the available dynamic range of the camera by up to a stop with every additional doubling of amplification.

In many modern sensors, the amount of downstream read noise is so low and the precision of the ADC sufficiently high that there’s only a small difference between the result you get from using a low amount of amplification, then lightening the results later, versus applying lots of amplification. This is a property we call ISO invariance (though should perhaps be called Amplification Invariance). Exploiting this characteristic by using a low amplification but with the exposure settings associated with a higher ISO setting has little noise cost and reduces the amount of highlight data that’s clipped.

The very high ISOs are created either by doubling the captured values before storing them or by adding a metadata flag to indicate that everything should be lightened by a number of stops during processing. Sometimes this is done because sensors’ amplifiers have a maximum gain level they can deliver, but it’s equally true that there’s very little benefit to applying large amounts of analog gain.

The beneficial side effect of preserving highlights can be seen in the GFX 50S example at the top of the page: this isn’t a case of software trying to ‘recover’ highlights from partially clipped data, this comes from multiple stops of highlight data being preserved in the Raw file, just not used by the default tone curve.

Even on a camera that doesn’t do this, it shows the benefit for Raw shooters of selecting appropriate exposure settings then reducing the ISO setting for some low-light shots or times where you need a fast shutter speed. There’ll be little noise cost but highlights such as neon signs won’t be clipped.

All ISO settings from a single amplification level

At its most extreme, there have been cameras that only have a single level of amplification and then generate all their ISO settings from that state (though this is rare). For this to work, you’d need a highly ISO invariant sensor, which wasn’t the case in the one instance we’re aware of.

ISOs in Log mode

Strictly speaking, most cameras’ Log modes stray outside the ISO standard, since they’re not in the sRGB colorspace. But, presumably to avoid your camera having to present you with a a totally different lightness scale, most cameras continue to use the ‘ISO’ terminology in Log mode.

In most cameras, when you switch from a standard color profile to Log mode, the minimum available ISO jumps significantly. This isn’t necessarily because more amplification is being applied, a lot of it will be because the Log tone curve is so flat.

Just like the DR modes we discussed above, if you want to capture more highlight information but you’re already at your lowest amplification level, the only option is to reduce your exposure and brighten the result using a more dramatic tone curve. This is essentially what’s happening in Log modes: the super-flat Log gamma curves require less exposure to deliver middle grey, so are considered higher ISO settings.

This is why, for instance, the Panasonic S1H’s minimum ISO changes dramatically when you change into one of its Log modes, or even into one of its color modes with a flatter tone curve:

Panasonic S1H color mode: Minimum ISO
(expansion turned off)
Standard ISO 100
Cinelike D2 ISO 200
Hybrid Log Gamma ISO 400
V-Log ISO 640

If you shoot them all at the same exposure values, they all clip at the same point, since they’re all based on the camera’s lowest amplification settings. The change in the available ISO settings is purely reflects that their tone curves accommodate an extra 1, 2 and 2.67EV of additional highlights, respectively, compared to Standard mode.

However, that’s not always the case. When you engage the S-Log modes on Sony cameras, there’s an increase in minimum ISO but this jump is the effect of the flatter tone curve combined with an increase in amplification. The size of the jump from standard mode to S-Log2 changes between cameras, but the change in tone curve accounts for 2.33EV of this shift: anything more than this comes from amplification.

Shifting from standard color mode to S-Log2 sees the ISO rating jump by at least 3EV on most Sony cameras. This 3 stop reduction in exposure doesn’t yield 3 stops of extra highlights, though: instead you only get 2.33EV of additional highlight capture because the analog amplification is also being increased (by 0.67EV on the a7R III, illustrated), presumably to overcome a little noise in the deep shadows.

As if to emphasize how far we are from the ISO standard at this point, this produces a JPEG in which a middle gray target would appear darker than the standard 118, 118, 118 RGB value. Instead the camera meters to expose middle gray at what videographers would consider IRE 32.

With this in mind, it’s always worth being careful of any camera where the ISO doesn’t increase when you shift to Log mode: it almost certainly means that some of these ISO settings are ‘pull’ expansion modes, which will prematurely clip highlights.

EI: explicitly separating exposure from analog gain

Interestingly, some more recent video cameras – often the ones that shoot Raw video – offer an EI ‘Exposure Index’ mode. This uses the camera’s base amplification setting at all times, and combines this with the exposure values usually associated with a higher ISO.

It’s terminology that dates back to push-processing film, where you would use a different exposure index than the sensitivity of your film.

Explicitly separating amplification from exposure considerations might let photographers make more informed choices about how to use their cameras

This approach is essentially like generating all your ISO settings from a single amplification level, with the benefit that you gain an extra stop of highlights for each higher EI step (ie: one stop less exposure).

For now, we’ve not seen a stills/video camera explicitly use an EI approach to exposure. But as the two worlds converge, we wouldn’t rule it out. Explicitly separating amplification from exposure considerations might let Raw shooters in particular make more informed choices about how to get the most out of their cameras.

What’s next?

This article tries to show how different cameras exploit the flexibility of the ISO standard to provide different modes and features. Unfortunately, the JPEG-focused nature of ISO makes it difficult to apply this knowledge if you’re shooting in Raw. Because the standard doesn’t define what should happen to the Raw files at different ISO settings, it’s difficult to work out the optimal settings to use.

In a forthcoming article, we’ll look at our Science Editor’s proposals to move beyond the current ISO system. Specifically, a system that accounts for Raw and is able to better exploit modern sensor performance.


Again, thanks to bobn2 for his pre-publication check of this article to prevent overly casual use of the word amplification.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The ins and outs of ISO: What is ISO?

09 Apr

What is ISO?

Strictly speaking, ISO is a Switzerland-based standards body whose name derives from the greek word for ‘the same’. It is not an acronym, since the letter order would change in different languages, hence it shouldn’t be pronounced as a series of letters.

ISO is the name given to what’s commonly called ‘sensitivity’ in photography. It’s analogous to the system used in film but has a few fundamental differences, and these differences have been increasing over time.

Lightness

Throughout this article we use the term ‘lightness’ to express how light or dark the final image is. This is to make clear that we’re discussing a representation on a white to black tonal scale, not a measure of emitted light. How ‘bright’ any tone specific tone appears to a viewer would depend on the display it’s viewed on.

At its most simple, ISO tells us that using specific exposure settings at a given illuminance level should give an image that looks like we expect it to. For many circumstances, this is all you need to know. It’s still a close-enough analogy for the film standard that a film-era light meter will still work for digital. Give or take.

But it’s often assumed that increasing ISO just adds amplification (voltage gain applied to the analog signal coming from the pixels), a bit like turning up the volume on an audio amplifier. This is not true, and this misunderstanding can make it harder to understand what your camera is actually doing. Virtually all modern cameras have at least one mode or function that diverges from the ISO = Amplification concept, so put that idea aside.

Seriously, what is ISO?

ISO in digital cameras (specifically ISO standard 12232:2019) is designed to resemble the ASA film speed standard that was adopted by the International Organization for Standardization in 1974.

ISO describes the response of the whole processing pipeline, relating exposure to end image lightness

However, there is a fundamental difference: the film standard defined the ‘speed’ of a film that would give a correctly exposed negative (for print film) when combined with a certain exposure and illumination level, but said nothing about how light or dark your prints would come out. The digital standard covers the response of the whole processing pipeline to give a final JPEG image with the ‘correct’ lightness.

The ISO in digital photography is based on the lightness of the final JPEG. It doesn’t specify how this lightness should be achieved. It explicitly doesn’t specify a relationship between Illumination, Exposure and amplification for Raw files.

To really understand the impact of ISO on your photography, it’s useful to recognize that it binds together a series of functions to relate exposure to image lightness:

  • Exposure: the density of light hitting your camera’s sensor, based on the illumination level, shutter speed and aperture value used
  • The inherent, unchangeable response of your sensor to light
  • Lightening: the sum of all processing by which your camera delivers the expected image lightness from this exposure. ‘Lightening’ includes both analog amplification and any subsequent digital processing.

Separating out these elements helps us eliminate another error: that amplification or some aspect of the camera’s electronics increase noise when you raise the ISO level. In most circumstances, it’s the reduction in exposure that increases the noise, because it means you’re capturing less light and are more likely to see how random and noisy the light itself is.

How are you defining ‘correct’ lightness?

The light conditions here demanded the use of a wide aperture to capture as much light as possible, given the camera shake-constrained shutter speed. The high ISO setting has delivered the image lightness the photographer wanted.

Fujfilm GFX 50S | ISO 12,800 | 1/90 sec | F2.8 | GF 63mm F2.8 R WR
Photo: Dan Bracaglia

Before we go any further, it’s worth noting that there are two different definitions of ISO currently in use in cameras:

  • SOS – Standard Output Sensitivity
  • REI – Recommended Exposure Index

SOS is the simpler of the two. It essentially says that if you get an sRGB JPEG with lightness values of 118 (ie: middle grey) from a middle grey target shot with a given illumination level and exposure settings, then this must represent a certain ISO rating. This is the variant that most closely resembles the old film speed standard.

REI is the variant designed for multi-weighted metering modes. This is broadly similar to the SOS system, except it doesn’t specify the lightness of the final image. Instead the manufacturer gets to decide what ‘correctly exposed’ looks like. As a result, it can’t be measured, since there’s no definition of what the end result should look like.

Sensitivity

It’s worth noting that that you cannot adjust the ‘sensitivity’ of a sensor.

A camera’s sensor will capture a certain proportion of the light that hits it, depending on the efficiency of its design. This can’t be increased or decreased. Everything after this step is a question of signal processing: you can try to minimize any further degradation, and you can manipulate how that signal gets represented in the final image, but only changing your exposure can adjust how much light you capture.

In most instances, the results from the two systems are usually pretty similar, but in a REI-based camera, you can’t take your light meter and conclude that following its advice will give you a specific image lightness.

Manufacturers are supposed to specify which of these standards they are working to, but this isn’t always done.

As an aside, the ISO 12232 document also specifies other ways of assessing camera response (based on saturation point or based on noise level), but these aren’t the ones your camera is claiming to comply with, so there’s no reason to expect them to align with what your files say in their EXIF.

What about Raw?

Raw is often talked about as being like a ‘digital negative’ but as we’ve seen, unlike the film standard, the digital version of ISO doesn’t specify what should happen in your Raw file.

The latest update to the ISO standard makes it explicit that it does not apply to Raw files. Until a tone curve is applied, a Raw file doesn’t have a ‘middle grey’: it’s up to the manufacturer to decide which Raw value should be used. Consequently, there isn’t a specific Raw value you can measure or check for correct exposure, so you can’t measure the ISO (or ISO accuracy) of a Raw file.

If you’re ever seen graphs plotting ‘Measured ISO’ against ‘Manufacturer ISO,’ then you risk being misled.

If you’re ever seen graphs of ‘Measured ISO’ plotted against ‘Manufacturer ISO,’ then you risk being misled. What they show is how a camera’s ISO settings are delivered, relative to an arbitrary system that assumes Raw files will saturate at a certain exposure. You can often work out how amplification is being applied using these graphs, but they do not show ISO accuracy, since the ISO standard doesn’t define a relationship between exposure and Raw saturation.

What’s next?

Now we’ve established that ISO includes exposure and lightening components, and that the lightening part is made up of more than just amplification, we can look at how these distinctions are exploited.

In part two of this article, we’ll look at how ISO is implemented in different cameras and different modes, why you tend not to get low ISO options in Log mode and how some video cameras are moving beyond ISO by separating the exposure and lightening aspects.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Working with a Second Shooter – Legal Ins and Outs

23 Nov

The Importance of Being or Having a Second Shooter

second-shooter-event-photography-02

If you have ever done any kind event photography, weddings in particular, you already know how important it is to hire a second shooter. You’re trying to adequately photograph hundreds of people, often in multiple locations in the same venue. You’re good, but you’ve yet to master the finer points of time travel and being in two places at once. Similarly, if you’re still looking for your way into professional event photography, you already know how important it is to be a second shooter. This is your chance to learn from someone who has already walked in your footsteps. It is the opportunity to hone your skills, connect with a mentor, establish relationships, and start building your portfolio.

Ownership of the Images

But who owns the second shooter’s photographs?

Common sense would dictate that if I am contracted to shoot an event, all of the photos taken by me or anyone working for me fall under my copyright, and therefore belong to Guyer Photography. One of the main things I learned in 14 years of practicing law, however, is that contractual situations are rarely ever common, and are often devoid of sense.

“Whoa. Hold On. Did you just say, ‘contract?’”

Yes, but relax, we’ll come back to that in a minute.

For now, it’s important to know that copyright law makes two facts abundantly, and undeniably clear. First, an image is copyrighted from the moment the shutter clicks. I’m not going to get into copyright registration  in this article, except to say that registration is not necessary for copyright protection to take effect. Compose, focus, click, done. Copyright protection. That’s it. Just like magic. It is the second fact, though, that creates a potential problem for photographers and their second shooters. Not only does the copyright spring to life  at the very moment of capture, but the copyright actually belongs to the photographer who presses the button.

I’m going to go get myself a snack while you ponder the ramifications of that point.

guyer-photography-second-shooter-copyright-1

Okay, so by now you’re thinking about your images showing up on your second shooter’s website and the value of those images deflating like a hot air balloon in a thunder storm. But, have you also considered that if the second shooter owns the image they may also be able to prevent you from sharing, blogging, posting, tweeting, advertising, marketing, printing,  or doing anything with it other than passing it along to the client? There are so many ways that this copyright ownership technicality can take an otherwise great working relationship and turn it sideways if you aren’t careful. It’s a scary proposition, but it’s a minefield which can be easily avoided if you just take a few simple steps to protect yourself.

Put it in Writing

Most photographers who hire second shooters, do so on a job-by-job basis. They are there to do what you need them to do, when you need them to do it, but technically they are independent contractors, not employees. As such, having a contract in place is essential. A photography work for hire contract will cover everything from copyright and compensation, to confidentiality and liability.

Copyright – Retain It, But Be Fair

This is going to be the most important paragraph in the entire contract. Here is where the photographer stakes their claim to the copyright of all images taken by their second shooter in the course of photographing the event. The language must be clear that the photographer retains all copyrights associated with the second shooter’s images. If your contract contains nothing else, make sure it contains this copyright protection. Without it, it’s your second shooter who owns the images outright, not you.

This is also where the photographer may choose to outline what rights, if any, the second shooter has to those images. I may choose, for instance, to allow the second shooter to use his or her photos in a print portfolio but not on a website. Or, I might tell them they can have unrestricted use of the images, but not until six months after the wedding date. Another option might be to let them use the images on their website, as long as it bears a credit line that reads “Photographed for Guyer Photography.” You can come up with any set of conditions you feel to be reasonable, but you are also well within your rights to explicitly state that they cannot use the photos ever, for any reason. Obviously, this is an extreme example and I do not recommend it. A good second shooter works hard and should have something to show for it.  They also have their own communities in which they share their experiences and opinions. If word gets out that you aren’t letting your second shooters use their images, good luck finding any who want to work with you down the road.

You are in business for a reason, and giving away your copyright is not that reason. As outlined below, there are other important elements to the contract, but getting the ownership question answered early and clearly is crucial to the survival of your business.

guyer-photography-second-shooter-copyright-2

The Relationship

It is important to clearly state that the second shooter is not an employee, but an independent contractor. If they are an employee, you could be responsible for liability issues, as well as insurance and taxes. Any one of these could push you into a variety of financial pitfalls. Be clear, and spell it out. Leaving it open to interpretation will only lead to headaches down the road.

Compensation

This is pretty basic. You have to make sure that the contract properly reflects whatever compensation you’ve negotiated with your second shooter. Be specific. If you are paying them a flat rate for the entire job, indicate that in the contract. If you are paying them hourly, make it clear what the rate is and how many hours you plan to cover, as well as an agreed-upon rate for overtime. Events rarely stick to a schedule and often run longer than expected. If you are contractually bound to pay for six hours, plan for what happens when the reception is still going strong at six and a half hours. You don’t want to be negotiating this while you’re waiting to get the shot of the bride and groom leaving. This is also the section of the contract where you need to cover expenses like parking, meals, travel, etc.

Gear

This is the perfect place to spell out what gear you expect your second shooters to have with them when they show up at the venue. Whenever I hire a new second shooter, one of the first things I do is email them a complete list of my gear and ask them to send me a complete list of theirs. By detailing what is expected of them up front, I avoid unpleasant surprises on the day of the wedding.

Delivery Schedule

Some photographers put delivery schedule in the contract, and some don’t. I put it in, not because I feel the need to tell you how much time you have to get your images to me after the event, but to make sure you understand that I will hide your car keys in the bushes if need be to ensure you go absolutely nowhere before clearing your memory cards onto my laptop. I realize this comes off a bit harsh, but there are practical reasons behind it. First, I was burned once and had to refund an entire wedding because the second shooter lost an important memory card. Second, unless the second shooter is going to be editing the images, there’s really no reason to wait.

second-shooter-event-photography-01

Liability

As long as you’re getting everything else in writing, why not take a few lines to address what happens when your second shooter breaks your equipment, or gets broken himself. What unforeseen expenses are you willing to take on and which will you make certain he understands are his personal responsibility?  If you don’t deal with it as a possibility in the contract, it will be too late to deal with it as a reality in the emergency room.

Confidentiality and Non-Compete Clauses

I was extremely lucky when I started out in this business. I found amazing photographers who were generous with their time, knowledge, and gear. I believe in giving back and paying it forward. If you work for me as an assistant or second shooter there is virtually nothing I won’t share with you. I’ll answer your questions, make suggestions, offer critique, and tell all my friends about you, to help get you more work. I’ll do all of that and more, right up until that moment when you break my confidence. My event is not the time or place for you to be handing out your freshly printed business cards. When you meet your friends for drinks after the job do not discuss my prices, my marketing materials, or even this contract. You’re looking for your place in this profession and I want to help. Look out for me and I’ll look out for you.

Ideally, you and your second shooter should be able to view this contract as a mere formality. If you can’t, you may not be right for each other. But if you can, the two of you could be on your way to a long, mutually beneficial relationship. Honest and open communication of expectations is an important two-way street. Nobody wants to train a new second shooter every time an event comes along. You want someone in your corner who has your back and knows how you want things done. As much as you may like and respect your second shooter, you both need to get on the same page and make sure that reasonable expectations are met, particularly and most importantly when it comes to ownership of the photos.


NOTE: The advice in this article and the accompanying sample contract is based on my experience as a professional photographer and does not constitute legal advice. While the principles discussed are widely applicable, every jurisdiction is different and you should consult a local attorney for specific legal advice. – JJG

Editors note: Please keep in mind this article is the writer’s opinion on how to handle this issue. I’m sure each photographer has a different approach to hiring second shooters. If you have any suggestions or comments please add them below and let’s have a discussion. 

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Working with a Second Shooter – Legal Ins and Outs

The post Working with a Second Shooter – Legal Ins and Outs by Jeff Guyer appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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