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Posts Tagged ‘Macro’

Reverse Lens Macro Photography: A Beginner’s Guide

20 Jul

The post Reverse Lens Macro Photography: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

reverse lens macro photography: a guide

If you want to capture beautiful close-up images but don’t want to spend hundreds (or thousands) on a macro lens, then you’ve come to the right place.

Because in this article, I’m going to explain everything you need to know about reverse lens macro photography. It’s a simple technique that lets you turn a standard lens into a macro lens so you can capture photos like this:

droplet of water on a flower

In fact, if you already own a 50mm prime lens or a standard kit lens (in the 18-55mm focal length range), then the reverse lens macro technique is the least expensive way to capture magnified images.

So let’s dive right in, starting with the absolute basics:

What is reverse lens macro photography?

Reverse lens macro photography is a method of capturing highly magnified images using an interchangeable lens camera, a lens, and a cheap adapter. You turn your lens around so the rear element points outward, then use an adapter to attach the reversed lens to your camera body (or to another lens).

In other words: You take your lens. You flip it around. And you’ll be able to shoot at macro magnifications.

If you’ve never seen the reverse lens macro technique, it may seem a bit strange – after all, why does reversing a standard lens let you shoot at high magnifications?

But it really does work, and the diagram below shows why. In normal use, a 50mm lens focuses light from far away to create a much smaller image, one that fits onto film or a digital sensor (which is often around 35mm wide). Reverse the lens and the opposite occurs: the 50mm lens magnifies what it sees, giving near life-size reproduction:

diagram showing how reverse lens photography works

How to do reverse lens photography

There are two ways you can use the reverse lens macro technique:

1. Single lens reverse macro

This method involves reverse-mounting one lens to the front of your camera. First, purchase a reversing ring (also known as a reverse ring) like this one:

reversing ring for macro photography

You can buy these adapters for cheap on Amazon. One side screws onto the end of your lens like a filter, while the other attaches to your lens mount. Here’s a reversing ring in action:

reversed lens attached to a Canon 40D

Note that the reverse macro technique works best if you use a lens with a manual aperture ring. That way, you can stop down to increase the zone of sharpness (which is very helpful because depth of field decreases as you get closer to your subject).

Unfortunately, if your reversed lens doesn’t have a manual aperture ring, you won’t be able to make any f-stop adjustments and you’ll be forced to work at your lens’s maximum aperture. But while this can be inconvenient, don’t let it stop you – you can use a reversed lens at its widest aperture to take some beautiful photos. You just have to get creative!

2. Twin lens reverse macro

This reverse lens macro technique is less popular but will get the job done. Instead of reverse-mounting one lens to your camera, you mount one lens normally, then reverse mount a second lens on the front of the first, like this:

twin lens reverse macro in action
I’ve attached a reversed 50mm lens to my 85mm prime lens. In this setup, the 85mm lens is called the primary lens and the reversed lens is called the secondary lens.

The actual mechanics are nearly identical to the single lens technique discussed above; simply purchase a coupler ring (shown below). Then use it to mount the second lens to the first.

macro coupler ring for twin lens photography

Now, when using the twin lens reverse macro technique, the reversed lens acts like a powerful close-up filter, except that it’s much stronger than any filter I’ve encountered. In fact, the twin lens technique offers two major benefits over the single lens technique:

  1. It offers insanely close magnifications. Depending on the focal lengths you use, you can achieve up to 3x life-size reproduction. (That’s three times as close as most professional macro lenses!)
  2. It increases your depth of field flexibility. You can leave the reversed lens open at its widest aperture, while stopping down the primary lens to increase depth of field (even if you don’t have a manual aperture ring).

Note that you can do this technique with essentially any lenses, though the longer the focal length, the more magnification you’ll achieve. What’s most important is that the filter thread sizes on the two lenses match – that way, you can buy a coupler ring that will easily join them together.

(If your lenses have different filter threads, you do have the option of purchasing a step-up ring in addition to your coupler ring, but this can be inconvenient.)

Caring for the reversed lens

The reverse macro technique does leave the rear element of your reversed lens open to the elements, regardless of which method you use. So you should always work carefully to avoid scratching the exposed element.

lens with extension tube

If you have an extension tube, you can attach it to the back (now front) of the reversed lens, as I did in the photo above. This helps protect the rear element and also acts as a lens hood.

Also, because of the risks to the lens, I’d recommend using relatively cheap glass, like a 50mm f/1.8.

Image sharpness

The reversed lens technique gets you so close to your subject that it’s virtually impossible to handhold the camera. For the sharpest results, use a tripod to keep the camera steady and use a cable release to fire the shutter.

I find it best to use a reverse lens macro setup indoors, especially for delicate subjects like flowers. If you try it outside, the slightest breeze can move the flower and spoil the photo.

Of course, you can always embrace a blurry result and create some interesting abstract shots – but if your goal is to create magnified-yet-sharp photos, you’ll need to follow this advice closely.

If possible, stop down your primary lens to at least f/4. That way, you’ll get increased depth of field, and if you’re using the twin lens technique, it’ll help you avoid the softening that may happen when the first lens is at its widest aperture setting.

How to light reverse lens photography

close-up of bubbles

As long as you don’t mind using a tripod and long shutter speeds to obtain the required exposure, natural light will work just fine.

However, flash is also an option. And you don’t need a specialized macro flash – I use a Canon Speedlite with a small softbox (though you’ll probably want to make sure you’re using an off-camera flash to avoid shadows cast by the lens).

A flash and a softbox were all I needed to take the photo featured above. Here’s a diagram of the setup:

flash setup for reverse macro photography

In general, I’d recommend you start with natural light, unless you’re relatively familiar with artificial lighting. That way, you can experiment with different lighting qualities and directions and you don’t have to worry about complex lighting techniques.

What lens should you use for reverse macro shooting?

kit lens with 18-55mm focal length

I’ve used a 50mm prime lens for the photos featured throughout this article. And a nifty fifty is a great way to get started with reverse lens macro photography.

But don’t forget that you can try this out with just about any lens (though I do recommend using a cheaper option, just in case your lens gets damaged). Kit lenses like the Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II (pictured above) work great.

Reverse lens macro photography: conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be able to confidently create a macro photography setup (without spending lots of money on a dedicated macro lens).

Reverse lens macro photography is a lot of fun, so order your reverse ring and get shooting!

Now over to you:

Do you prefer the single lens reverse macro technique or the twin lens reverse macro technique? Do you have any tips for improved macro photography? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Reverse Lens Macro Photography: A Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.


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Canon RF 85mm F2 Macro IS sample gallery

23 Nov

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Canon’s RF 85mm F2 Macro IS offers EOS R-series shooters an affordable, stabilized and fast-ish portrait prime. Its ‘Macro’ designation also reflects its close-focusing capabilities and while it falls short of true 1:1 reproduction, its 0.5X magnification gives this lens another layer of versatility. Take a look at how it handles subjects out in the real world.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Venus Optics’ 100mm F2.8 Ultra Macro lens is now available with Pentax K mount, new stepless EF mount version also available

14 Nov

Venus Optics has announced its popular Laowa 100mm F2.8 Ultra Macro APO lens is now available for Pentax K mount cameras and is also available in a stepless aperture version for Canon EF mount.

When the Laowa 100mm F2.8 Ultra Macro APO lens was announced back in 2018, it was supposed to be available for Pentax K mount systems alongside Canon EF, Nikon F and Sony FE mounts. However, the K mount version never came to fruition, with Venus Optics even announcing RF and Z mount versions back in April of this year before any news of the K mount version came out.

A macro shot of the aperture coupling on the new Pentax K mount version of the Laowa 100mm F2.8 Ultra Macro APO.

Now, the wait is over. As with the previous versions of the lens, the Pentax K mount version is constructed of 12 elements in 10 groups, features an aperture range of F2.8-F22, uses a seven-blade aperture diaphragm and has a maximum 2x magnification ratio. The lens features an automatic aperture coupling lever, which allows the lens’ aperture to be controlled through the camera, but if you prefer a more hands-on approach, you can adjust the aperture using the manual aperture ring as well.

In addition to the Pentax K mount model, Venus Optics has also released a variation of its EF mount model that features manual stepless aperture control. This video-oriented version of the lens makes it easier to get just the right exposure and the inclusion of a 13 aperture-blade diaphragm over the seven-blade aperture diaphragm in the automatic aperture EF mount version should make for even smoother bokeh.

Below is a sample gallery of images taken with the Laowa 100mm F2.8 Ultra Macro APO lens by photographer Thomas Shahan, provided by Venus Optics:

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Both the Pentax K mount and Canon EF mount stepless manual focus versions of the Laowa 100mm F2.8 Ultra Macro APO are available on the Venus Optics online shop and through authorized retailers for $ 449.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro for E- and L-mount arrives in October

01 Oct

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Sigma has unveiled an all-new 105mm F2.8 macro lens, which will provide 1:1 reproduction and will be offered for E-mount and L-mount mirrorless cameras. It features a new optical formula comprising 17 elements in 12 groups, including one SLD (Special Low Dispersion) element.

The 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro features a 14cm (5.5″) working distance, an aperture ring that functions either clicked or de-clicked, and a three-zone focus limiting switch. The lens is dust- and splash-proof, and the L-mount version is compatible with Sigma’s 1.4x and 2x teleconverters.

The Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro Art lens will ship in late October for $ 800.

View our sample gallery

Press release

Sigma Announces the 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro | Art Lens, Redefining Mirrorless Macro Performance

  • Life-sized magnification (1:1) short tele macro for full-frame mirrorless
  • Dust and Splash-proof construction
  • Completely new optical formula for exceptional sharpness and pleasing bokeh
  • Hypersonic Motor optimized for both contrast and phase detection autofocus
  • Clicked and de-clicked aperture ring with Aperture Ring Lock Switch
  • Focus Limiter switch for macro, portrait, or full range autofocus
  • Available in L-Mount and Sony E-Mount
  • MSRP: $ 799
  • Anticipated Shipping Date: Late October 2020

Ronkonkoma, NY – September 30, 2020 – The SIGMA 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro | Art lens is the first prime macro lens designed by Sigma exclusively for full-frame mirrorless cameras, as the DG DN in the name indicates. Announced today by Sigma Corporation, this lens offers 1:1 magnification (life-sized) at a 5.5-inch working distance with internal focusing, and it is available in Sony E-Mount and L-Mount formats.

Exceptional focal plane sharpness with minimal aberration is achieved through a new optical formula featuring 17 elements in 12 groups with one SLD element. The lens design also features excellent peripheral brightness for pleasing bokeh, complemented by nine rounded aperture blades. The L-Mount version of the 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro | Art lens is compatible with the SIGMA Teleconverter TC-1411 and TC-2011, increasing the maximum magnification to 1.4:1 and 2:1, respectively.

“In order to capture the minute details of small subjects, macro lenses must meet an extremely high standard of optical precision, and the new SIGMA 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro | Art lens truly delivers,” says Mark Amir-Hamzeh, President of Sigma Corporation of America. “Whether you are shooting images of flowers, insects or just interesting objects around the house, the sharpness, bokeh quality and practical functionality of this lens will exceed the expectations of professionals and hobbyists alike.”

The Hypersonic Motor delivers smooth, quiet, confident autofocus in both close-up and portrait-distance settings, and the three-zone focus limiter switch allows for even swifter response when focusing exclusively in either the macro or more distant range.

The Sigma Art line has been consistently redefining both imaging excellence and satisfying handfeel, and this new lens continues that journey. The dust and splash-proof design, aluminum and TSC (Thermally Stable Composite) construction, a brass bayonet mount, plus well-damped switches and rings demonstrate the level of build quality that the Art name represents. The Aperture Ring can be clicked or de-clicked by flick of a switch, and the lens also includes an Aperture Ring Lock Switch function. Additional benefits include a programmable AFL button on the lens barrel, and compatibility with face and eye-detection autofocus.

The lens will begin shipping late October 2020. / MSRP: $ 799

Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro specifications

Principal specifications
Lens type Prime lens
Max Format size 35mm FF
Focal length 105 mm
Image stabilization No
Lens mount L-Mount, Sony FE
Aperture
Maximum aperture F2.8
Minimum aperture F22
Aperture ring Yes
Number of diaphragm blades 9
Optics
Elements 17
Groups 12
Special elements / coatings 1 super-low-dispersion element, Super Multi-layer coating
Focus
Minimum focus 0.30 m (11.81)
Maximum magnification 1×
Autofocus Yes
Motor type Ring-type ultrasonic
Full time manual Yes
Focus method Internal
Distance scale No
DoF scale No
Physical
Weight 715 g (1.58 lb)
Diameter 74 mm (2.91)
Length 134 mm (5.28)
Materials Magnesium alloy
Sealing Yes
Colour Black
Filter thread 62 mm
Hood supplied Yes

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG DN Macro sample gallery

30 Sep

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Sigma’s all-new 105mm F2.8 macro offers 1:1 reproduction and has been designed from scratch for L-mount and full-frame E-mount mirrorless cameras. Fall weather brings out plenty of detailed subjects for a lens of this kind, and coupled with the 60MP Sony a7R IV, well, let’s just say we’ve seen things we can’t unsee.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Sample gallery: macro photos with a motorized slider

27 Sep

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Macro photography has captured the imagination of many-a photographer looking to get out of a creative slump. It’s an eye-opening experience to see otherwise uninteresting subjects revealed in an entirely new way. Even better, it’s pretty cheap to experiment with macro by picking up some inexpensive macro tubes that will work with your existing gear.

DPR contributor Chris Foreman recently shared his experience getting back into macro photography, and detailed his unique approach using focus stacking and a motorized slider. Take a look at his images above for some inspiration and get all the details if you want to give it a try yourself.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to: Shoot better macro photos using a slider and focus stacking

25 Sep
A Sony a6300 and an Edelkrone motorized slider: interesting marriage of technique and technology?

Like a lot of people, I’ve always had an interest in macro photography, which unfortunately never really developed into anything more than the odd shot of a flower or two. Then a couple of years ago I sold my seldom used 100mm F2.8 Sony macro lens when I moved from Sony A- to Sony E-mount. At the time I thought my macro shooting days were behind me.

But then I became interested in focus stacking, which is a technique used to blend several images focused at different points so that the depth of field can be increased beyond that of a single image. It can be used for multiple types of shots, but is typically used with close-ups or macro images.

This watch shot was comprised of 50 images taken with a Sony a6300 and 18-55mm lens at F7.1. The camera was a set to 1/25th at ISO 100. The images were blended in Helicon Focus.

About 18 months ago I bought a set of budget Neewer extension tubes to use with my Sony a7 III and Sony a6300. While not really specifically meant for 1:1 macro work, they come in handy when shooting product shots as they let you focus a lot closer to the product (as opposed to without them).

This pile of screws was shot 1:1 with the 7 Artisans 60mm Macro ( F8 at 1/60th and ISO 800). The 30 frames were then blended in Helicon focus.

The other part of this equation is that I’ve been using Edelkrone equipment for a couple of years now and I’ve always been intrigued by the fact their small motorized slider (SliderOne V2 $ 499) has a minimum travel distance of 0.222 ?m. Could this be used for focus stacking in combination with a time lapse sequence?

Using a slider for focus stacking does present some potential problems. For starters, moving the entire camera could introduce errors with perspective and isometric distortion. However, I’m never one for the easy way out, so I decided to investigate further.

This stack of 30 images (55mm F8, 1/60th, ISO 800) was blended in Helicon Focus taken under constant LED lighting.

What type of equipment is used, typically?

Strictly speaking, focus stacking doesn’t require complicated equipment like a slider. Many digital cameras, including a variety of Olympus and Panasonic models, even offer the ability to do all the focus stacking internally by automatically re-focusing the lens and blending the images in-camera. But the slider and dedicated post-processing software allow for a far greater degree of control over the final image.

Additionally, if you’re not using those Olympus and Panasonic cameras, you don’t necessarily need to use a dedicated macro lens; a standard kit lens and some extension tubes can work very well to get you started. You do, however, need to manually refocus the image every time you take a shot so that at least part of the image is in focus each time. Your results can be a bit hit-or-miss if you do it this way, and the software to assemble the images can cost you some money.

Details of technique and equipment

I tried a few different setups for my images, but all of them included the slider and a Sony a6300. Initially I did try using the Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 with a set of Neewer extension tubes (NW-S-AF3A, 10 and 16mm $ 49.99) and some of the images can be seen here. I had to be a little more careful with the lighting when using these tubes as they don’t have internal felt flocking and can cause some lack of contrast and flare if not used carefully, due to internal reflections.

Inexpensive extension tubes can give you extra options for close up photography

While the subject image was relatively large compared to the sensor, it wasn’t quite at a 1:1 ratio, it ended up being ~1:1.1 using both tubes at the closest focus for this lens. In all cases the lens was set to manual focus as was the camera, a careful juggling act was performed to get the right balance of light level, aperture, shutter speed and ISO. After a bit of experimentation I found that I needed to use an aperture of F8; this gave enough sharp areas of focus for each exposure without the need to increase the number of shots.

After a bit of experimentation I found that I needed to use an aperture of F8; this gave enough sharp areas of focus for each exposure without the need to increase the number of shots

I then decided it was time so see how a different macro would work with my setup, so I picked up the low cost 7 Artisans 60mm F2.8 ($ 159.00) to experiment with. This is a true 1:1 ratio lens with a de-clicked iris and manual focus-only. It’s incredibly well constructed with a metal body and allows a close-focus distance of 26cm (about 10.25 inches). It has no communication with the camera body so EXIF iris data is not available. It allows a working distance of 14cm and you can unscrew the lens hood to allow more light in if required.

This set of 30 images was shot with 2 flashes, at (F8, 1/100th, ISO 200) at 52mm with extension tubes.

Of course setting up the shot is 90% of the work – aligning the camera and making sure the axis of movement is exactly perpendicular to the center of the object can take some time when you have a lot of axes of adjustment. Distortion can be mostly corrected for in post-production, but it also takes time.

Trying to eliminate dust, or at least as much of it as possible is also a major part of this sort of photography. I don’t mind the fix it in post attitude but I’d rather try and reduce the amount of work required.

This is about the maximum depth of field I could achieve as the tip of the key is close to exiting the frame. Blended in Photoshop, 60 images at F8, 1/60th, ISO 400.

Lighting is also a key component. I always like to keep things simple so some of my photos were only lit with a single light, and some with up to three. The shot of the key is an example of where more light sources were needed to give more interesting reflections. The lighting of course is crucial and this also took significant time to get right. In the end, I settled on using constant LED lighting rather than flashes as I found they gave me more control.

In the end I settled on using constant LED lighting rather than flashes

After a bit of trial and error I settled on 30-60 shots for each set of exposures. The number of shots was based around the amount of movement of the slider; if you are only traveling a few millimeters then you can get away with 30 shots, but for other scenes – like the watch – I needed 60. Initially I tried 15 shots per move but when the focal planes were blended in software I found too many out of focus areas.

This slightly odd shot of styling gel on a CD is another 60 image stack (F8, 1/60th, ISO 320) processed in Helicon Focus.

Processing the images

For post-processing I decided to try two different solutions: Photoshop, i.e. something that most people are familiar with, and Helicon Focus, a dedicated piece of software. I also chose to work with Raw files. My PC setup for this was by no means high end, I used a self-built Windows 10 PC with 32GB of RAM and a Ryzen 1700X CPU and stored the photos on a 500GB SATA SSD.

For post-processing I decided to try two different solutions: Photoshop, i.e. something that most people are familiar with and Helicon Focus, a dedicated piece of software

I started with Adobe Photoshop ($ 9.99 a month for a 12 month subscription). You can use Adobe Lightroom to apply adjustments to each Raw image globally and then import them as separate layers into Photoshop. I then aligned the images using the auto-align function and then I had to auto-blend all the layers into one. This was a few too many steps for my liking. It is possible to load Raw files directly as an image stack using the built-in script option, but then you still need to auto-blend the images and correct for any exposure changes you want to make.

It would take around 2-3 minutes to load 60 Raw images and align them it then took an additional 2-3 minutes to produce the final image. It was then possible to tweak layers that didn’t quite work by cloning data from layers above or below.

A set of 60 shots at F8, 1/160th at ISO 640 with the 7 Artisans 60mm 1:1 macro. The raw result from Photoshop, an uncropped image showing areas that couldn’t be blended without errors The Raw Helicon focus result – auto cropped by the software, although this can be turned off.

I also wanted to see what Helicon Focus could offer. The basic Lite package costs $ 30 per month or $ 115 for a lifetime license. It works a little differently than Photoshop. Loading the images can be done directly from the Raw files with basic development settings set up within Helicon Focus itself. I found that the time taken to load 30 Raw images was significantly reduced compared to Photoshop, around 5-10 seconds to load and 3-4 minutes to blend the final picture. After the initial compilation of the image it would then take only about 20-30 seconds to render any subsequent adjustments to the algorithms.

I found that the time taken to load 30 raw images into Helicon Focus was significantly reduced compared to PS

Helicon focus offers three ways of blending the images (weighted average, depth map and pyramid) and also a couple of sliders (radius and smoothing) to help tweak the final result. Helicon exposes to the user what it is doing as it draws a depth map from your images, something that was fascinating to watch, a bit like seeing images from a scanning electron microscope. Like Photoshop you can also clone data between image layers but I found that most of the time Helicon produced a better image or at least one that could be improved by adjusting the algorithm and some of the parameters without the need for cloning.

The depth map that Helicon Focus produces can be adjusted with the radius and smoothing sliders

It’s also very easy to compare the results from the three different algorithms as Helicon gives you a timeline at the bottom of the main window which allows you to look at your session history. You can then easily choose to view any of the versions you have created and see which one works best.

By default Helicon will automatically crop the final image (although this can be changed in the settings). Photoshop makes geometric adjustments and either leaves transparent areas of the image or gives you the option to content aware fill these areas.

Which software should you use? It comes down to what sort of photographer you are

Over all, I found that Helicon’s interpolation is better, and useful if you have fewer images – although it can’t work miracles. Although its Raw development options are limited, you can load images directly from Lightroom.

So which software should you use? I think it comes down to what sort of photographer you are. If you want to make minute adjustments to your image, then Helicon Focus is probably the tool for you, otherwise, Photoshop works fine.

General tips for success

The parts of the petals closest to the camera are causing blending problems here, that’s because they were never in focus.

As a whole, I found that I needed more setup time than I had originally thought. Working at this scale can introduce errors that I was not able to see initially in the viewfinder or on the rear LCD. My advice is to shoot a few frames and then process, to see what adjustments you might have to make, rather than shooting hundreds of images only to find that they won’t work. Below are five other tips from my adventure in macro photography:

  • Set up your slider for the farthest shot first as this will be the limiting factor to your framing.
  • Make sure you have a solid tripod and base for your subject. As you may end up with an exposure set that takes minutes to capture, any movement can ruin the resulting image.
  • Run at least two seconds between exposures, this gives time for the slider movement to settle down. If you plan to use flashes to light your subject you may need to increase this to allow for them to recycle. Use the silent shutter or electronic curtain if possible, this also reduces shake.
  • Set everything to manual, including white balance. Sometimes small shifts in white balance can cause issues when blending images.
  • Take more images than you think you need even if you don’t end up blending all of them. It can be very difficult to see what is in focus on your camera’s LCD even when using peaking or expanded focus.

How it worked and what I learned

The most important takeaway: shooting macro with a slider does work. It wasn’t perfect and I could definitely improve things, but it was a successful proof-of-concept.

Like anything, it takes time to get good results and this is achievable by careful setup combined with some experimentation. If you are thinking that focus stacking might be an area of interest for you, don’t think you need go off and purchase a motorized slider; manually changing your focus also works. However, you may find that the optical construction of some lenses (like the 7 Artisans 60mm) don’t allow manually re-focusing without the image size changing quite drastically thanks to focus breathing. If that is the case, a normal lens and some extension tubes may prove a better option.

As for me? I’ve been bitten by the macro bug again.

Chris’ macro gallery

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Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: A look at Yasuhara’s unique Nanoha macro lens with built-in LEDs

02 Sep

Photographer and YouTuber Arthur Reutov has published a new video showcasing the Nanoha Super Macro lens from Japanese company Yasuhara, which claims this product is the only microscopic lens available for cameras. The Nanoha is, as Reutov notes, quite unique in that not only is it a powerful macro lens, but it also features built-in LEDs for illuminating the subject.

The Yasuhara Nanoha is a 5x magnification macro lens designed for use with mirrorless cameras. The company says its lens is capable of microscopic imagery, enabling photographers to get unique up-close shots without using a microscope. The Nanoha name is inspired by the word nanometer, referencing the lens capabilities.

According to Yasuhara, the effective F-number for its Nanoha lens at 5x magnification is F11. The company says that its macro lens exceeds the brightness of the Canon MP-E65mm F2.8 macro lens, which has a magnification range from 1x to 5x. With Nanoha, the lens must be around 11mm (0.4in) from the subject in order to focus.

The most notable aspect of the lens is its integrated lighting system, which includes a battery, multiple LEDs, and a USB connector for recharging the battery. The inclusion of this lens light eliminates the need to use an external light, which could introduce shadows that are difficult to get around with such a minuscule focus distance.

Yasuhara provides a gallery of sample images captured with Nanoha, showing off what its lens is capable of. Here to provide a better look at the offering is Reutov, however, who presents the model, details its build quality and quickly goes through the lens features.

‘This is super crazy, unique, it is a lens unlike any I’ve ever used,’ Reutov said, demonstrating how he captures images with the Nanoha. The shallow focus distance means the lens must be placed flat on a surface above the subject in most cases, which is where the plastic housing and integrated LEDs come in.

Ultimately, Reutov notes that the macro lens won’t work for every photographer, pointing out that capturing live insects, for example, would be essentially impossible with Nanoha due to the focus sensitivity and need for, in some cases, focus stacking. Ultimately, though, Reutov notes that Yasuhara’s offering is ‘a very fun lens to use … it’s pretty cool to see how much it magnifies. It’s like having a microscope attached to your camera.’

The Yasuhara Nanoha Macro lens is available now in Sony E, Canon EF-M and MFT mounts from Yasuhara and B&H Photo for $ 399.99.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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The Laowa 50mm F2.8 is the first 2x macro lens for MFT systems

19 Aug

Chinese lens manufacturer Venus Optics has introduced a new Ultra Macro lens to its Laowa line-up with a 50mm F2.8 model that offers a 2x macro function. The Laowa 50mm F2.8 2X Ultra Macro APO is claimed to be the first-ever 2x macro lens for the MTF system, and has a minimum focus distance of 13.5cm (5.3in).

Marked with the company’s ‘CA Dreamer’ slogan, the lens has apochromatic correction achieved with three extra-low dispersion elements in the 14-elements-in-10-group construction. The company says lateral and longitudinal chromatic aberrations are corrected and that out-of-focus highlights appear free of color fringes. As the lens provides the view you’d expect from a 100mm on a full-frame sensor Laowa says it also makes an excellent portrait lens.

Jimmy Chan Paul Harcourt Davies
Nicky Bay Paul Harcourt Davies

The lens is chipped and allows body-controlled apertures as well as full EXIF data to be recorded in the image metadata. The lens has a 7-bladed iris, a 49mm filter thread and it weighs 240g (8.4oz), while the short flange distance has allowed the company make it just 79mm (3.1in) in length.

The Laowa 50mm F2.8 2x Macro costs $ 400 before tax and is available to purchase now on the Laowa website.

Press release:

Venus Optics announced the world’s first 2x macro lens for MFT: Laowa 50mm f/2.8 2X Ultra Macro APO

Venus Optics, the camera lens manufacturer endeavoring in unique ultra-macro lenses, announce the release of Laowa 50mm f/2.8 2X Ultra Macro APO Lens. The new 50mm lens is specially designed for Micro Four Thirds (MFT) cameras and it is the first- ever 2X macro lens designed for this sensor size. The lens also features an apochromatic (APO) design to minimize the chromatic aberrations across the frame. The ex-VAT retail price is USD 399/pc and pricing may vary in different countries.

1) Focus from infinity to 2X macro magnification

Unlike most of the MFT macro lenses in the market which can focus only up to 1X, the new Laowa 50mm macro lens offers a 2X maximum magnification ratio along with a minimum focusing distance of 5.3” (13.5cm). It has become the first lens ever designed with a greater- than-life-size (2:1) maximum magnification for MFT cameras, allowing photographing close subjects with finer details. The wider magnification range also makes itself flexible for shooting subjects at different sizes. The lens can focus to infinity and serve as an excellent portrait lens with its 100mm equivalent field of view on 35mm sensors.

2) Equipped with a CPU chip and motor (Automatic aperture)

The lens is equipped with a CPU chip and motor and the aperture can be controlled via the camera body. All the lens data is directly recorded on EXIF. Moreover, the focus magnifier would automatically triggered for easier focus control when the focus ring is rotated.

3) Apochromatic optical (APO) design

The new 50mm f/2.8 2X Ultra Macro has a optics design with 14 elements in 10 groups, three out of which are extra-low dispersion glasses to minimize chromatic aberrations across the frame.
This lens has inherited the exceptional APO design from Laowa 65mm f/2.8 2x Ultra Macro APO, where both lateral chromatic aberration (LaCa) and longitudinal CA (LoCA or Bokeh Fringing) are eliminated.

4) Lightweight & Compactness

The 50mm lens is extremely compact and light in weight. It measures 3.1” (79mm) long and weighs only around 8.4oz (240g). Venus Optics take advantage of the short flange distance of mirrorless cameras and compress the size of the lens to the minimal. An internal focus design is also adopted so that the length of the lens can be maintained during focusing.

5) Compatible with MFT

With the previous success of the Laowa 65mm f/2.8 2x Ultra macro APO which was optimized for APS-C, the new 50mm lens is specially developed for MFT mirrorless camera users. It can be used on Panasonic, Olympus, BMPCC 4K, etc.

6) Pricing & Availability

The lens is currently available to order in authorized resellers and in Venus Optics official website (http://www.venuslens.net/). Shipping starts immediately. The ex-VAT retail price in the US is USD 399/pc. Pricing may vary in different countries.

Specifications

Format MFT
Focal length 50mm
Angle of View 24°
Aperture f/2.8-22 (Automatic aperture)
Optical Structure 14 elements in 10 groups
Aperture Blade 7 blades
Closest focusing distance 13.5cm
Max. Magnification 2X
Focus Manual
Filter thread ø49mm
Dimensions ø53.5mm x 79mm
Weight 240g

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Macro Photography for Beginners

18 Aug

The post Macro Photography for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barrie Smith.

The advent of digital photography swept away one of the most challenging problems in image capture: how to shoot macro without a pile of specialised gear. Now you can get down, dirty, and close in the image capture business, and make macro the digital way with a 100 percent success rate.

ngeblues by Alfian Ismail on 500px.com

I know I’m not alone when I say that macro photography is an absorbing activity: to be able to reach into ‘near space’ and record an image that is not easily visible to the naked eye is an attractive option. There is nothing more satisfying than to make a huge print of an insect, mineral specimen, or any small object that is normally so tiny to the naked eye and captured with the technique of macro photography.

To shoot macro in the days of film — aside from the requirement of using an SLR camera — you needed a few add-ons to take highly magnified images of extremely small subjects.

You could begin by slipping a diopter lens to the front of the existing standard lens, which would impart a degree of magnification; you could also install extension tubes between your normal lens and the camera body; you could also acquire a set of macro bellows and place them between lens and body; and finally, you could invest in a fairly expensive — and optically superb — macro lens that was dedicated to macro shooting. Another option was to fit a reversing ring that allowed you to mount the lens on backward, which improved the close-up resolution and allowed you to focus much more closely. But to be honest, it was a hassle — although you can still use these methods if using a DSLR to shoot macro.

These days, digital does it with a dash! With a digital camera — compact, mirrorless, or DSLR — even newbies are surprised by how easy it is to capture really, really big shots of tiny subjects.

In truth, you can make digital macro photography as basic or as complex as you wish it to be. Even with a budget camera, you can capture images of the tiny world before you, subjects as small as a matchbox, a match-head, or even tinier. The higher-priced compact digital cameras can do it even better, some offering macro shooting with a powerful zoom lens, so you can stand back a bit.

The other approach is to use a DSLR or a mirrorless model; it is surprising how powerful a macro camera circa-$ 1200 USD can become.

Grasshoper macro photography. Image by macropoulos

Image by macropoulos

What is macro photography?

First, an explanatory note for all those with a modicum of photo history and tech basics: the term macro used to refer to the capture of an insect or whatever that resulted in an image on the 35mm film frame (24x36mm) that ranged from 1:10 to 1:1 the size of the original subject. The term micro referred to a film image that was larger than 1:1; micro photography could easily give you a 35mm film image of an ant that was itself larger than the original ant.

A CCD or CMOS sensor can be as tiny as 3x4mm, so any definition term that applied in the film days is now obsolete. But the rules that apply in accomplishing successful and satisfying macro photography still stand.

Normal photography works in using a camera to record a sharp image by adjusting the lens-to-sensor distance to attain precise focus. For distant subjects at infinity, like landscapes, the lens is positioned at a minimum lens-to-sensor distance; to capture sharp images of closer subjects, like people, the lens-to-sensor is increased.

In macro photography, a sharp image of a tiny object requires the lens to be positioned much closer still, with the lens moved even further out than for normal photography.

Just about all compact cameras and some DSLRs have a selectable macro mode. In some cameras you can select the macro mode via an external control, while in others you must select it in the internal menu.

Think about it: no extra lenses, no macro tubes or bellows, no special lenses. What a wonderful world in which to shoot macro!

Flower macro photography. Image by macropoulos

Image by macropoulos

Tips for macro photography beginners

Being curious about how digital cameras can capture macro so easily, I investigated the subject. Here are my findings, gained by chatting to the tech expert at a major camera company.

Engage macro mode on a digital camera, and the system adjusts the lens elements to re-arrange them into an array that best suits close focusing. Quite a feat, as even simple camera lenses have a surprising number of lens elements to juggle.

Unfortunately, by engaging macro mode with the vast majority of cameras, you lose control of both the lens aperture (f-stop) and shutter speed.

Why is this so important?

The best macro photography — regardless of camera — requires that you use the smallest lens aperture to gain optimum image sharpness and depth of field. Using a small lens aperture means you need more light, so you need to extend the exposure time to make a correctly exposed photograph.

So you can’t reduce the lens aperture to a smaller, more favorable setting, nor can you slow the shutter speed to permit the use of a smaller lens aperture.

For the keen macro makers, I’ve discovered a few digital cameras that do allow the use of macro mode and lens and shutter speed adjustment.

With DSLR cameras, the macro operation is somewhat different. Select a macro mode and you activate a different chain of events: With any lens fixed to the camera, engaging macro mode on the camera commands the lens aperture to close to its minimum, therefore extending the depth of field and allowing you to move closer to the subject.

Shooting macro with a compact camera is easy, but you have to forgo a fair bit of control, and you need to understand that the demands of an amateur as far as resolution and color quality are less stringent than the pros.

The pro approach would be to use a purpose-built macro lens on a DSLR or mirrorless camera. Dedicated macro lenses are not cheap, but they are optimized to operate at closer than normal distances. With macro lenses, you are unlikely to experience problems such as color fringing and optical distortion; many macro lenses also compensate for the additional exposure necessary when racking out the lens to distances very different from those used in normal photography.

Read the second part of this series here: Macro Photography for Beginners, Part 2.

Flower macro photography example. Image by ecstaticist

Image by ecstaticist

The post Macro Photography for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barrie Smith.


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