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What Is the Best Focal Length? 5 Important Focal Lengths to Try

07 Sep

The post What Is the Best Focal Length? 5 Important Focal Lengths to Try appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jason Checkla.

What is the best focal length in photography? What are the uses of different focal lengths? And – most important of all – what focal length should you use in your own photos?

In this article, I aim to address all of those questions and more. I’ll share several key focal lengths, and I’ll make sure to explain why they’re great, what you can do with them, and who should consider using them. I’ll also include plenty of examples, so you can see the different focal lengths in action.

Note that whether you shoot with zooms or primes is unimportant. All the focal lengths in this article are achievable through either lens type, so no need to fret if you prefer zooms over primes or vice versa. Instead, just focus on the focal lengths I mention – and how they can improve your images.

Let’s get started.

1. 24mm

The best genres for 24mm lenses: landscapes, astrophotography, group portraits, and event photography

24mm is a beautiful focal length, one that offers a wide-angle field of view without taking you into ultra-wide territory. It’s easy to experiment with, not only because there are many affordable 24mm prime options available, but also because you’ll find this focal length at the wide end of many zoom lenses, such as a 24-70mm f/4 or f/2.8. Also, many kit lenses feature a 24mm wide end once you account for the APS-C crop factor.

A 24mm prime lens will be sufficiently wide and remarkably sharp, making it an ideal candidate for landscape photography. Zooms are wonderful for landscape photography, too, but the locked-in field of view (on a 24mm prime lens) will force you to think carefully about your compositions.

The 24mm focal length also excels in low-light situations. That includes astrophotography, where 24mm lenses with wide maximum apertures (i.e., f/2.8) will facilitate shots of the Milky Way, as well as event photography, where you’ll have an ample field of view for environmental, contextual shots, plus the wider maximum aperture will facilitate sharp shots indoors and at night.

Additionally, the 24mm focal length is wide enough to capture group portraits with minimal perspective distortion. Just don’t get too close and be sure to watch the edges of your frame.

2. 35mm

The best genres for 35mm lenses: street photography, event photography, environmental portraits, and casual portrait photography

35mm is a classic focal length for many photojournalists and street photographers. Why? For one, the field of view requires you to get close to the action for a more immersive perspective, plus it provides plenty of useful context. On the other hand, 35mm isn’t too wide; you can use it to photograph natural-looking people, close-up details, and more.

This same philosophy applies to wedding or event photography, which is why these photographers love the 35mm focal length, especially when combined with a wide maximum aperture such as f/1.8 or even f/1.4. Note that 35mm prime lenses, like 24mm lenses, tend to be impressively cheap – so if you’re on a budget, 35mm is a great place to start.

Another nice thing about 35mm: it’s great for environmental portraits, especially those casual, spur-of-the-moment portrait opportunities that come up at family gatherings and dinner with friends. For instance, I often use 35mm to shoot portraits across the dinner table:

Any wider, and my subject’s face might suffer from feature-exaggerating perspective distortion; any narrower, and I’d have had to get out of my seat to back up for the shot.

3. 50mm

The best genres for 50mm lenses: street photography, full-body portrait photography, walk-around shooting

50mm primes are the lenses for the photography beginner for a whole host of reasons. In fact, if you don’t own a 50mm lens, I recommend purchasing one right now – they really are that useful.

So what makes 50mm primes so special? For one, they’re insanely cheap. You can purchase a brand-new 50mm lens for most camera systems for a little over $ 100. I’m not talking about shoddy, low-quality optics, either; the 50mm f/1.8 lenses that cost in the $ 100 USD to $ 200 USD range tend to offer surprisingly good performances, especially for the price.

Also, 50mm lenses produce an image that is normal (i.e., most like the image that we produce with our own eyes). Therefore, it’s often easy to “see” in 50mm.

The 50mm lens really is a classic, and a big part of it is that the area in the frame is often just right. It’s narrow enough to create balanced compositions with ease, but still wide enough to create interest beyond your subject. That is why you will find a 50mm lens in the bags of most street photographers (and indeed, most portrait and event photographers, as well).

4. 85mm

The best genres for 85mm lenses: portrait photography, event photography, and sports photography

You’ll find 85mm lenses in the bags of many wedding and portrait photographers, and for good reason: they create beautiful portraits that flatten one’s features (this is generally flattering!), plus they offer beautiful subject-background separation.

The field of view isn’t so tight that you’ll need to be outdoors to shoot with an 85mm lens, but you’ll still get a nice working distance that allows you to sneakily capture candids at weddings and family gatherings.

That working distance is great for full-body shots when you’re on the sidelines of a sporting event, too. And 85mm lenses also offer a nice distance for photographing your kids and pets.

Of course, every focal length has its drawbacks, and 85mm is no exception. Such lenses are expensive to get ahold of, and the tighter field of view isn’t ideal for street photography or contextual portraits.

However, for serious portrait and event photographers, 85mm is a must-have.

5. 135mm

The best genres for 135mm lenses: Headshots, portrait photography, and wedding photography

When you need to get in close or you just love bokeh, a 135mm lens is a great pick – especially a 135mm prime with a wide maximum aperture.

You can use a 135mm lens for details and headshots that bring your subject to life. Plus, the background separation is fantastic due to the increased telephoto compression. The flattering flattening effect (say that five times!) makes this lens great for head-and-shoulder shots, senior portraits, candids, and more. You’ll have fun shooting wide open to create magical separation between your subject and the surroundings.

Is there a drawback to the 135mm focal length? Of course.

You do need a lot of working room, and you also need a lot of light. Remember the 1/focal length rule for shutter speed (also known as the reciprocal rule)? Well, you wouldn’t want to shoot a 135mm lens any slower than 1/135s (without a very steady hand or a tripod). So when light or space becomes a problem, it’s nice to have an 85mm lens to fall back on.

The best focal length: final words

Chances are you will love some of these focal lengths and dislike others, but you’ll never know until you give them all a shot!

So think about your favorite options from this list. And see if you can get your hands on each of the focal lengths – by renting, buying, or borrowing lenses (from a friend).

Now over to you:

Which focal lengths do you like best? Are there any focal lengths you’d like to test? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post What Is the Best Focal Length? 5 Important Focal Lengths to Try appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jason Checkla.

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Hasselblad’s new XH Converter 0.8 reduces focal length, increases aperture of HC/HCD lenses on X system cameras

03 Nov

Hasselblad has announced the XH Converter 0.8, a new Speedbooster-style adapter that makes it possible to use H system lenses on Hasselblad’s mirrorless X system while reducing the focal length by 0.8x and increasing the maximum aperture of the adapted lenses by two-thirds of a stop.

The XH Converter 0.8 works similarly to other focal length reduction adapters, such as Metabones’ popular Speedbooster line of adapters. Thanks to the extra flange distance going from a mirrored body to a mirrorless body, Hasselblad is able to pack not only the adapter components inside the unit, but also five optical elements in three groups. This differentiates the XH Converter 0.8 from Hasselblad’s previously-released XH Lens Adapter, which simply keeps the focal length and apertures the same across the board with adapted lenses.

Hasselblad has created a thorough chart showing what effective aperture and focal length compatible H system lenses would be when using them with this adapter on a Hasselblad X system camera:

Hasselblad has also shared a collection of sample images captured by photographer Tom Oldham on a 907X 50C using the XH Converter 0.8 with various lenses:

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As tends to be the case with many adapters, not all lenses can use all of the features. The XH Converter 0.8 requires all HC/HCD lenses with firmware version 18.0.0 or later to be updated to firmware version 19.1.0 if you want autofocus compatibility, with the exception of the HC 120 and HC 120 II, which are limited to manual focus mode.

Likewise, any HC/HCD lenses that weren’t updated to firmware version 18.0.0 can’t be updated to firmware version 19.1.0 due to hardware limitations and will therefore be limited to manual focus. Hasselblad does not that since HCD lenses ‘were originally designed for a smaller format than HC lenses […] some reduction of performance in extreme corners can occur.’

Firmware version 19.1.0 for various lenses can be downloaded on Hasselblad’s website.

Hasselblad cameras must also be updated to the latest firmware, The X1D 50C must be updated to firmware version 1.25.0 or later, while the X1D II 50C, 907X 50C and 907X Special Edition models require firmware version 1.4.0 or later to work with the adapter.

The XH Converter 0.8 is made in Sweden and is available today for $ 950 on Hasselblad’s online store.

Press release:

HASSELBLAD LAUNCHES XH CONVERTER 0,8 UNLOCKING A WHOLE NEW SET OF LENSES

The XH Converter 0,8 brings new opportunities to Hasselblad photographers with the ability to unlock a whole new set of H System lens capabilities. The XH Converter 0,8, used on HC/HCD lenses attached to an X System or 907X camera, reduces the focal length of the lens by a factor of 0,8x, which delivers a wider field of view and improves the maximum aperture of the lens by two-thirds of a stop. Additionally, the XH Converter 0,8 improves lens performance in terms of contrast and apparent sharpness across the entire frame.

An impressive combination for maximizing aperture is achieved when attaching the XH Converter 0,8 to the HC f/2,2 100mm lens, transforming the aperture and focal length to f/1,8 and 80mm, respectively. This creates an extremely large aperture that proves even faster than the XCD f/1,9 80mm lens, which until now has been the highest aperture lens option for X and 907X camera systems. An example of reducing focal length with the XH Converter 0,8 is when combined with the HCD f/4,8 24mm lens, it creates an aperture of f/3,8 with a 19mm focal length. This results in an even wider lens option than the existing XCD 21 lens, the widest lens in the X System.

The XH Converter 0,8 joins a range of Hasselblad adapters and converters, including the XH Lens Adapter which allows the usage of all 12 H System lenses as they are on X and 907X camera systems. The addition of the XH Converter 0,8 to the existing accessories lineup now provides these systems with enhanced functionality for H Lenses. In addition, H System users who decide to branch into the X or 907X systems gain more versatility from their current HC/HCD Lens options.

All H System lenses with firmware 18.0.0 or later must be updated to the newest version 19.1.0 to work with the XH Converter 0,8 and to get auto focus (HC 120 and HC 120 II can only be used in manual focus mode). Other H System lenses (except HC 120 and HC 120 II) with firmware older than 18.0.0 will work but only in manual focus mode. Please note that only HC/HCD lenses with firmware 18.0.0 or later can be updated to 19.1.0. Lenses with older firmware have older hardware and therefore cannot be updated. Additionally, the X1D-50c must be updated with firmware 1.25.0 or later and the X1D II 50C, 907X 50C and 907X Special Edition cameras must all be updated with firmware 1.4.0 or later.

The XH Converter 0,8 is available now for purchase with a MSRP of €959 / £859 including VAT and $ 944 excluding sales tax. See more at www.hasselblad.com/x-system-accessories/xh-converter-0-8/.

Download H System Lens Firmware Update 19.1.0 here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Video: How to choose your focal length for landscape photography

06 Sep

Every landscape scene offers a collection of compositions just waiting to be framed by the proper focal length, but how do you choose what one to go with? While the answer will always be subjective, photographer Nigel Danson has shared a video showing how he goes about choosing the best focal length for certain scenes.

The video is a longer watch, coming in at just under 27-minutes, but through it, Danson explains how he chooses a specific focal length and shares example photos captured at different focal lengths to show what tends to work best with different lenses, from a 14mm ultra-wide-angle lens to a 200mm telephoto lens.

It’s a fantastic deep dive into the selection process for landscape photos and even Danson was surprised when he looked through what his most-used focal length was — 24mm. He notes this focal length is likely the most used due to it being difficult to capture portfolio-worthy shots at ultra-wide-angle focal lengths, leaving him ‘more disappointed than pleased,’ upon returning home to cull and edit the captured frames.

Despite his most-used focal length, Danson says his favorite focal lengths to shoot with are at either extreme — either ultra-wide or telephoto — due to the ability to ‘create something more dramatic […] and creative,’ despite it ‘not being easier.’

You can find more videos from Danson on his Youtube channel, follow him on Instagram and visit his website to view his portfolio of work and purchase his new 2021 calendar.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Oppo shows off its next-generation optical zoom camera module with 85-135mm equivalent focal length

20 Aug

Oppo has announced (translated) it’s latest camera technology, a next-generation periscope zoom camera that features improved optics, a new sensor and updated image processing algorithms.

The new camera module features an 85mm to 135mm full-frame-equivalent focal length with an aperture range of F3.3 through F4.4. To achieve this, the module uses seven elements in three groups with the two rear-most groups being the ones that move for zooming and focusing.

In addition to new optics, the camera module uses a new 32MP quad-bayer-like sensor. Both the movement of the lenses and image processing will be powered by the custom-designed 16-bit image processing chip inside the module.

Sample images from the new camera module captured with the wide angle (left), equivalent 85mm focal length (center) and equivalent 135mm focal length (right).

If we’re to assume this would be used in a smartphone with a 26mm main camera — such as the Oppo Reno 10x zoom — this new camera would offer a 3.3x to 5.2x optical zoom and presumably feature the same ‘hybrid zoom’ up to 10.4x. Even though the multiplication factor is roughly the same as that found on the Reno 10x zoom, Oppo says its new hybrid zoom technology improves image quality, as can be seen in these example images (older ‘hybrid zoom’ images on the left, new technology on the right):

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There’s no mention of when we could see this new camera tech, nor what phone it might be in, but as noted by GSM Arena, details of a forthcoming Oppo phone believed to be the Reno 10x zoom successor were revealed last month.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Cinematographer Newton Thomas Sigel shares his wisdom on focal length choices

02 Sep

Vanity Fair has published an interview on its YouTube channel with American cinematographer Newton Thomas Sigel – who was director of photography for Bohemian Rhapsody, X-Men: Apocalypse and The Usual Suspects amoung many others. He talks about the way different focal lengths make people and objects in the scene feel closer together or further apart, and how the sense of perspective is altered depending on the camera position and the amount of background included in the shot.

During the interview Sigel talks us through clips from Three Kings, Drive and Bohemian Rhapsody explaining what he hoped to achieve in that particular shot and the lenses he used to do it. It’s a fantastic watch with an experienced and well-spoken artist.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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NVIDIA Computational Zoom lets you change perspective and focal length in post

03 Aug

Researchers with the University of California, Santa Barbara (UCSB) and NVIDIA have detailed a new type of technology called ‘computational zoom’ that can be used to adjust the focal length and perspective of an image after it has been taken. The technology was detailed in a recently published technical paper, as well as a video (above) that shows the tech in action. With it, photographers are able to tweak an image’s composition during post-processing.

According to UCSB, computational zoom technology can, at times, allow for the creation of ‘novel image compositions’ that can’t be captured using a physical camera. One example is the generation of multi-perspective images featuring elements from photos taken using a telephoto lens and a wide-angle lens.

To utilize the technology, photographers must take what the researchers call a ‘stack’ of images, where each image is taken slightly closer to the subject while the focal length remains unchanged. The combination of an algorithm and the computational zoom system then determines the camera’s orientation and position based on the image stack, followed by the creation of a 3D rendition of the scene with multiple views.

“Finally,” UCSB researchers explain, “all of this information is used to synthesize multi-perspective images which have novel compositions through a user interface.”

The end result is the ability to change an image’s composition in real time using the software, bringing a photo’s background seemingly closer to the subject or moving it further away, as well as tweaking the perspective at which it is viewed. Computational zoom technology may make its way into commercial image editing software, according to UCSB, which says the team hopes to make it available to photographers in the form of software plug-ins.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Ask the staff: Pick one focal length or lens to rule them all

27 Mar

Can you guess the focal length? Photo by Wenmei Hill

We handle a lot of glass in the DPReview office, but there always seems to be a handful of lenses or fixed lens cameras that everyone is extra eager to lay some paws on. Which got us thinking of a fun hypothetical: If we could only choose one lens to use for the rest of time, what would it be?

To keep things interesting, and to vary the answers, we opened the question up to include one lens in particular or one focal length. The photograph that accompanies each answer was shot with that staff member’s chosen lens or focal length. We purposely didn’t list the gear used. See if you can guess!

Carey Rose

Any guesses what focal length Carey gravitates toward?

Before I worked at DPReview, I would have immediately chosen the 35mm focal length. Now that I’ve worked at DPReview for some time, I have to say… I haven’t really changed my mind.

Splurging on a battered old D700 after college left me without enough money to pick up anything approaching a fast zoom, so I started building up a collection of affordable Nikon AF-D primes: a 50mm F1.8, a 35mm F2, an 85mm F1.8. I quickly realized that I just wasn’t a zoom guy, and the 35mm F2 was glued to my camera most of the time. A used X100 was a natural next step for a more portable setup when I scored a good deal on one.

Even today, after using lens after lens and camera after camera for review after review, the 35mm focal length remains my go-to. It doesn’t matter whether I’m headed to shoot an event, a wedding, an environmental portrait, or just strolling around when some nice light hits, it’s more likely I’ll have a 35mm lens with me than any other.

Wenmei Hill

Wenmei likes versatility. Did she choose a zoom or a prime?

I’m going to take the easy way out and pick a zoom lens rather than a single focal length. My choice is the Nikon AF-S 24-120mm F4G ED VR, and my excuse is that the majority of shooting I do (documentary lifestyle and candid portraiture) requires a flexibility that is difficult to get with a single focal length.

I’m choosing the 24-120mm even though it’s not one of my ‘favorite’ lenses because it is relatively small, lightweight and versatile enough to get the variety of shots I look for when photographing. I am able to immerse myself in a scene at 24mm but also step back for a portrait at 120mm, using the longer focal length to get pleasing bokeh and separation from the background.

Shooting it on a DX-format body gives me even more reach at the long end (180mm equivalent) for portraits. I already use this lens as my everyday lens when I don’t have a particular creative plan and want to be prepared for anything, so it’s the one I’d choose if I had to pick just one.

Dale Baskin

Dale chose a specific focal length that he didn’t always love. Can you guess what it is?

This will probably seem like I’m going for the low hanging fruit, but I would choose 35mm. I used to be a solid 50mm guy, and if I wanted to go a bit wider I switched to 28mm, skipping 35mm entirely. My shift to 35mm began in earnest when I started shooting Fujifilm’s X100 series of cameras, which have a 35mm equivalent lens.

Now, one could argue that I’m choosing 35mm because I really enjoy the camera to which it’s attached, but that’s not the case. In fact, when I first started shooting the X100 I enjoyed it despite the focal length. It was actually the one thing I didn’t care for about the camera. However, as I continued to use it, I learned to adjust my style to take advantage of the 35mm field of view. After a few months, I found myself really enjoying it, so I decided to do a little experiment: I was about to embark on a trip to Brazil and decided to shoot my entire adventure at 35mm. The idea was both exciting and scary; I knew from experience that I would be giving up some shots by not having the right lens. However, I like to travel light, and I hate carrying camera gear, so I threw down the gauntlet and accepted my own challenge.

The upshot? I had a great trip and captured a lot of memorable images. Did I miss a few shots along the way? Sure, I did. But on the flip side, I got some great photos I would have otherwise missed because I forced myself to visualize every scene at 35mm instead of mentally switching to a different focal length. Now, no matter what camera I happen to be testing, one of the first lenses I always put on the front is a 35mm (or equivalent).

Sam Spencer

Sam chose a specialty lens. This image was shot using a similar lens, albeit with a different focal length. Do you know what it is?

Forever? Forever ever? I’m sure I could do the practical thing and say ’24-70’, or be a motorsports spectator the rest of my life and say ’70-200’, but I’m weirder than that. If it was a lens for me to shoot what makes me happy for the rest of my days, it’d be the Nikon PC-E 85mm F2.8 for product, portrait, and automotive photography. The maximum magnification of 1:2 means I can get close for product, and use the tilt to either get more of the product in focus, or isolate the focal point. I like medium telephoto lenses for the narrower field of view that makes selecting a background out of a busy environment much easier, and even F2.8 can be bright enough to blur the background at 85mm. I’m a control freak, not a speed demon, so I’ll be watching eBay for a copy…

Dan Bracaglia

Dan’s image was shot with the equivalent of his favorite focal length. The image was cropped in slightly, still any ideas what he chose?

The first and only lens I’d owned for many years was a 50mm. But as my interest in photography (and other activities) grew I found myself yearning for other lenses. If you’d asked me this question when I was 16 years old and shooting a lot of skateboarding, I probably would have said a fisheye is my favorite lens. If you’d asked me again when I was 18 or 19 years old and starting to get into photojournalism, I’d probably have said 24mm. If you’d ask me when I was 24-28 years-old, and reviewing cameras for a living, all why exploring the streets of NYC/Seattle, I most likely would have said 35mm. But these days, I’ve come full circle and 50mm is my focal length of choice if I could only shoot one lens for the rest of my life.

Sometimes overlooked or seen as pedestrian, there are plenty of reasons why a normal 50mm lens is number one in my heart and bag: For starters the nifty fifty is as practical as they come. Most manufacturers make a reasonably fast, yet inexpensive 50mm equiv. Moreover, I’d argue its the most versatile focal length of them all: in a pinch it can be used for portraiture or detail shots, in the same way a tele can. And it can also be used in some capacity as a wide-angle, if you have the room to move (I’ve shot many concerts with just a 50mm, without feeling a need for something wider). And if you get a reversal ring, you can mount a nifty fifty backward and use it for macro shooting!

For years I’ve carried a Nikon 50mm F1.8 in my bag as the ultimate backup for just about anything I’m shooting: weddings, concerts, portrait sessions, travel. It’s light cheap and versatile. But these days, the lens spends as much time mounted on my camera as glass I own costing 6x as much.

Jeff Keller

Jeff chose a workhorse zoom. Can you guess which one?

Since I’m always shooting with something work-related, I don’t get to use my EOS 5D III very often. But when I do, my daily driver is the Canon EF 24-105mm F4L IS USM. Not the most exciting choice of lens, I admit, but for land- and cityscapes that I enjoy taking, it definitely fits the bill. The image stabilization works well, it focuses silently and the weatherproofing is helpful when you’re out at Snoqualmie Falls and it’s throwing mist. Naturally, not long after I bought the 24-105, the Mark II arrived, with new optics, better autofocus and new coatings to reduce lens flare and ghosting. The lens is larger and heavier than my Mark I model, which I consider a good size for its focal length and aperture.

It’s nice to see that Canon isn’t the only one offering a lens with this focal range. Sigma’s 24-105mm F4 DG OS HSM Art lens is even bigger and heavier than Canon’s Mark II version, but the build quality is excellent. And, according to DxO, it’s also a sharper lens. And did I mention that it’s a bit cheaper?

Thus, if I was stranded in a world with wonderful landscapes and cool architecture, the Sigma 24-105mm F4 Art would be permanently mounted on my 5D III.

Vladimir Bobov

Vladimir is our newest DPR team member. He makes sure the site works properly. Any guesses what focal length he chose?

I wasn’t sure whether to bother praising the 50mm focal length. I figured that it’s so common, that talking about it would be either redundant at best or boring at worst. However, sorting my photo collection by focal length showed that I took more photos with a 50mm (on a 35mm full frame camera) than with any other lens, including the more versatile zooms.

So why pick the “normal” prime for the rest of my life? Versatility and portability. It’s the perfect lens for candid portraits in a casual setting – fast enough to use in low light, and small enough to not intimidate the subject. Wide enough for full-body and group portraits, and good enough for head-and-shoulders (especially when paired with an APS-C camera). I’ve also been able to use it effectively for landscapes, close-ups, product, and food photography. So although I’d certainly miss the other focal lengths, with enough creativity and trickery, the 50 and I could live happily ever after.

Richard Butler

Richard chose a favorite lens that doesn’t yet exist. This image falls toward the tele-end of his made-up range. Can you guess what it is?

If I have to live within the constraints of reality, then I’d be tempted to say a 35mm just for its Goldilocks-like flexibility. But, it seems only fair that if I agree to be bound by an arbitrary restriction, I’m should get to relax the need to limit myself to lenses that actually exist. The problem is that I really like 35-40mm equivalent lenses but also love something around 90mm equiv. for portraiture and a lifetime seems like a long time to have to go without.

Equally, if I have a 24 or 28mm equivalent lens, I get back into the habit of ‘seeing’ wide-angle scenes and I’m sure there’s some aphorism about making one’s life spicy. This is why I’m pushing back against reality: the need for a 90mm equiv, rules out the use of a 24-70mm equiv and, over time, the limiting equivalent aperture of an 18-55mm F2.8 on APS-C would leave me frustrated. Sigma’s 18-35mm F1.8 is a work of genius that I wish were available on mirrorless systems, so I’m going to put my faith in the men and women of Aizu and trust that they’ll make me a 16-60mm F2 for APS-C mirrorless. I mean, how hard could it be?

Allison Johnson

Allison chose a specific zoom lens, can you guess which one?

Maybe a truly bold person picks a prime to shoot with for the rest of their life, but I’m going to play it safe and pick a zoom, whatever that says about me. The Olympus 12-40mm F2.8 is not the very best lens I’ve ever shot with, but it’s fairly versatile, sturdy and relatively small. It’s the right size (along with the OM-D cameras I’ve used it with) so that it’s doable to carry around all day in my purse, and I like having a fairly wide 24mm equiv. out to 80mm for a little more reach when I want it.

Really, it’s not special in any way except that it’s a solid standard zoom for a system I like. I’ve had many happy days shooting with it, including one wonderful afternoon at a defunct nuclear power plant (seriously, it was awesome). If picking a zoom makes me basic, then so be it.

Barney Britton

Any guesses what lens Barney chose?

If I was trying to impress you, and if I wasn’t such a died-in-the-wool contrarian, my choice for ‘go-to’ camera and lens would be a Nikon D810 and a 35mm lens – something good, like the Nikon 35mm F1.4 or Sigma Art 35mm F1.4, or perhaps an old ’sleeper’ favorite, like the Nikon AF-D 35mm F2, for the hipsters. If you were to ask me what focal length I use most, I’d say that probably around 90% of my photography could be achieved with a 35mm lens. If you were to ask some of my comment-thread critics on the other hand, they’d tell you that 90% of my photography could be achieved with an iPhone, or their 5-year old daughter, or their blind grandmother, or their blind grandmother’s 5 year-old iPhone, but that’s beside the point.

But I’m not trying to impress you. Which is why I’m going to cheat a little, and make a case for a zoom lens, and one that doesn’t get a lot of love in these parts – the Nikon AF-S 24-120mm F4. The current version of Nikon’s ‘street-sweeper’ do-everything zoom, it’s true that the 24-120mm isn’t the sharpest lens in Nikon’s stable, or the best-controlled when it comes to distortion, or the toughest, and all the rest. It’s a kit zoom. A pretty good kit zoom, in my opinion, but still. So why – if I had to choose only one lens – would I pick the 24-120mm? Because it just works. I know that if I go out shooting with the D810 and 24-120mm, come rain or shine (or snow, or hail, or desert dust, or any of the other nasties I’ve thrown at it) I can capture pretty much anything I might want or need to. It’s almost boring. I wish I had more of an excuse to attach other lenses, but to be honest, most of the time I just don’t. I actually sold a bunch of my Nikon glass recently, because it wasn’t getting used.

The image above was taken just after a torrential downpour last December which turned into a hail storm. The camera and lens were – like me – soaked. Could I have taken it on something better? Maybe, but I wouldn’t have wanted to risk damaging a more expensive lens in those conditions. And would it be a better picture had I done so? Or a happier memory? No.

What would you choose?

If you could only shoot with one lens, or one focal length for the rest of your life, what would you choose? Feel free to share your answer in the comments!

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Weather-resistant Fujifilm 2x teleconverter brings 1219mm focal length to X-Series

19 May

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Fujifilm X-Series users will soon be able to purchase a 2x teleconverter compatible with two of the company’s telephoto zoom lenses, delivering a maximum equivalent focal length of 1219mm for its interchangeable lens compact system. The XF2X TC WR teleconverter will be weather and dust-resistant when used with the X-T1 and X-Pro2 camera bodies combined with the XF50-140mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR and XF100-400mm F4.5-5.6R LM OIS WR lenses.

Fujifilm says that the teleconverter will deliver an angle of view equivalent to that of a 1219mm lens on a full frame camera when it is used with the 100-400mm lens, once the crop factor of the APS-C format is taken into account.

The converter consists of nine elements in five groups and adds 30.2mm to the physical length of the camera/lens set-up. With the 2-stop light loss, the AF system of the X-cameras will revert to contrast detection with the 100-400mm F4.5-5.6 lens, but phase detection will still work with the 50-140mm F2.8. Both lenses will need a firmware update in order to operate with the new teleconverter so that adjusted aperture and focal length values can be recorded in the EXIF data and displayed on-screen.

Fuji suggests that the converter will be compatible with other lenses in the X-Series range, and has set up a website on which it promises to post information about future lens compatibility.

The Fujifilm XF2X TC WR teleconverter will be available in June priced £349. For more information visit the Fujifilm website.

Press release:

Fujifilm announces the FUJINON XF2X TC WR Teleconverter

High-performance weather and dust resistant teleconverter with excellent optical design to be added to the X-Series interchangeable lens line-up in June

FUJIFILM Corporation (President: Shigehiro Nakajima) is proud to announce that the new FUJINON TELECONVERTER XF2X TC WR, a teleconverter extending the telephoto area of some X Mount lenses*1, will be added to the mirrorless digital camera X-Series interchangeable lens line-up in June 2016.

The FUJINON TELECONVERTER XF2X TC WR is a high-performance teleconverter, capable of multiplying the focal length of mounted lenses*1 by two. It features excellent optical design with a construction of 9 elements in 5 groups to maintain the optical performance of the original lens.

In addition, thanks to the unified design when mounted to a compatible lens*1, the teleconverter is weather and dust-resistant and operates at temperatures as low as -10°C. This makes it possible to be used with confidence outdoors when used with the weather and dust-resistant X-T1 and X-Pro2 camera bodies, and the XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR and XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lenses.

*1 Compatible lens (As of May 19, 2016)
XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR = 100-280mmF5.6 with teleconverter mounted (Equivalent to 152-427mm on a 35mm format)
XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR = 200-800mmF9-11 with teleconverter mounted (Equivalent to 305-1,219mm on a 35mm format)

1. Main Features

(1) High image quality design which maintains the optical performance of the original lens

Construction of 9 elements in 5 groups maintains the optical performance of the original lens.
By using the optimal image quality parameters for the overall characteristics of the original lens and 2x teleconverter, excellent imaging performance with great aberration suppression is still achieved.
The aperture becomes two f-stops higher when the teleconverter is mounted, and the camera displays and records information reflecting the change in aperture and focal length.

(2) Autofocus performance

Phase detection AF is still available when using the XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR with the 2x teleconverter mounted.
Contrast Detection AF is still available when using the XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR with the 2x teleconverter mounted.
Accurate focusing at super-telephoto focal lengths with shallow depth of field is possible thanks to the AF performed by the image sensor, thanks to the ‘Live View’ feature on the cameras.

(3) The optical image stabilization performance

The camera’s optical image stabilization performance*2 is unaffected by the addition of the teleconverter

*2CIPA guidelines, at telephoto end.

(4) Weather and dust-resistant and -10°C low-temperature operation

Using the teleconverter with a weather-resistant camera, such as the FUJIFILM X-T1 or X-Pro2 mirrorless digital camera and the FUJINON XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR or FUJINON XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lens does not affect the weather resistance of the system.

(5) High-grade subtle appearance

The teleconverter’s high grade metal exterior has been designed with the X system in mind. When attached to a compatible FUJINON lens, the two products appear as one single lens.

2. Main Specification

Type	FUJINON LENS XF2X TC WR
Lens construction	9 elements 5 groups
Focal length	2x that of original lens
Max. aperture	2 additional stop
Min. aperture	2 additional stop
Focus range	Approx. same as that of original lens
Max. magnification	2x that of original lens
External dimensions: Diameter x Length (distance from camera lens mount flange)	Approx. ?58mm x 30.2mm
Weight (excluding lens caps)	Approx.170g

4. Support Information

A firmware update is required for the FUJINON XF50-140mm F2.8 R LM OIS WR and FUJINON XF100-400mm F4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR lenses in order to provide full compatibility. This firmware is planned to be available at the beginning of June 2016. Please note that when updating firmware, make sure to update the latest camera firmware before updating the lens.

Please refer to the following website for information on how to confirm your firmware version and its update methods. http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/fw_table.html
Please be sure to check the following website as we will continue to update it with information regarding mountable lenses. http://fujifilm.com/products/digital_cameras/x/fujinon_lens_xf2x_tc_wr/

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How to use Focal Length and Background Compression to Enhance Your Photos

17 Nov

One of the most common uses for zoom lenses is, as their name suggests, to zoom in on objects that are far away. These lenses are fantastic for getting close-up views of nature, architecture, wildlife, or anything else that might be little more than a speck to the naked human eye.

Some cameras like the Nikon Coolpix P900 let you get a close-up view of objects a few miles away. While this flexibility might seem like a rather tempting proposition for getting close to objects without physically moving yourself, there is another often-overlooked benefit of zoom lenses when taking portraits or other types of pictures with one clear subject in front of a vast spread of scenery – background compression. Understanding how this works, and how you can manipulate it, can transform your approach to portrait photography and give your pictures the type of visual boost that you might have always wanted, but never knew how to achieve.

background-compression-senior-photo

The basic idea with background compression is that you can take photos of something relatively close to you, such as a high school senior as shown in the image above, and bring elements of the background closer as well. This gives a more constrained feeling to the overall composition, and helps focus the viewer on your subject while not only bringing the background in, but often blurring it at the same time.

As an illustration of how this works, here are several photos of my dad taken at different focal lengths. Notice how he is framed similarly in each shot, but the background changes dramatically as I adjust the zoom on my camera lens.

18mm focal length, f/7.1, 1/80th of a second, ISO 100

I used an 18-270mm zoom lens to take these shots, and this first one (above) at 18mm shows my dad along with a massive background: utility poles, houses, trees, mailboxes, and all sorts of other elements make up the picture in addition to the subject. Take note of the car several hundred yards behind him, as indicated by the red arrow, and notice what happens as I change focal lengths, but keep my dad similarly framed.

70mm, f/7.1, 1/125 second, ISO 320

Here you can already see several differences from the original image. The scene is now slightly claustrophobic with many of the elements along the perimeter of the original photo disappearing altogether. Mailboxes and utility poles have been brought closer, and notice how the same stationary automobile far in the distance has appeared to creep forward, and is now much larger. The background, in essence, is getting squeezed together or compressed.

154mm, f/7.1, 1/250 second, ISO 800

At 154mm the vehicle in the background seems significantly closer, and various other elements such as trees and utility poles are now filling almost the entire frame. As I zoom in, while keeping my dad consistently framed in the shot, even the distance between the individual utility poles seems to be shortened, which further enhances the overall feeling of compression. It’s not just that things appear closer, but that the distances between all the elements of the frame look much smaller as well. This can be a powerful, and extraordinarily useful way to compose a picture, and you don’t even need a fancy camera or lens to do it. Most pocket cameras have optical zooms that can be used to accomplish the same effect.

270mm, f/7.1, 1/400 second, ISO 1600

In this final shot, the background elements virtually dominate the frame and almost overpower my subject. The vehicle just over his shoulder is about a quarter of a mile (0.4 km) away, though it appears as if it’s a mere stone’s throw behind him.

Background compression can be a good or bad thing, depending on the type of picture you are taking. The key takeaway here is to know what it is, and how to utilize it to get the type of composition you are going for. The longer your focal length, the more you will be able to add this sense of compression to your background. But, it also helps if you have a great deal of distance between your subject and the elements behind it. If my dad were standing a few feet away from something, like a tree or a brick wall, there would be virtually no compression at all, even with a very long focal length.

18mm lens	70mm lens
154mm lens	270mm lens

If the final example in the above series seems a bit extreme, here’s another set of images that show how background compression can be used effectively to enhance the overall composition, rather than overpower your subject.

35mm, f/2.8, 1/750 second, ISO 200

This is a perfectly serviceable portrait, although I purposely left a bit too much space on the right-hand side in order to illustrate the compression concept. Shot at 35mm, with a wide aperture of f/2.8, the background is nice and blurry, the focus is clearly on the smiling woman, and the background is not too distracting or bothersome. However, re-taking the same picture with a longer focal length, leads to a much more pleasing picture all around.

85mm, f/2.8, 1/750 second, ISO 200

The same compression shown in the first series of pictures is clearly evident here, though it is used to a much better overall effect. Even though the tree and cars create a background that is somewhat busy, shooting with a wide aperture blurred things out enough, that the focus is still clearly on the woman, while the background serves to add a bit of context to help put the overall composition in perspective.

One final note about compression: it doesn’t just work for foreground elements too as you can see in the following pictures.

35mm, f/11, 1/125 second, ISO 400

I purposely shot this with a much smaller aperture in order to minimize the degree of background bokeh, lest compression be confused with blur. Notice how this woman is sitting squarely in the middle of the bench with plenty of room to her right, and about 50 yards (46 meters) between her, and the trees and cars in the background. Most of the picture is in focu,s which is a direct result of the small aperture.

85mm, f/11, 1/90 second, ISO 400

Here the foreground and background have both been brought nearer to the subject. The trees and cars behind her are much closer, while the bench appears to take up almost no room on the woman’s right side. It might as well be little more than a chair in this picture, and yet, this is merely an illusion created by using a longer focal length while keeping my subject framed appropriately. Most of the picture remains in focus due to the small aperture, and you can clearly see that background compression is not always synonymous with background blur.

As one final example, here is the same woman, on the same bench, shot wide open at f/1.8 with my 85mm lens.

85mm, f/1.8, 1/1000 second, ISO 400

The overall compositional elements remain the same in this final image as the two above, except that I moved myself physically closer to the subject, while shooting at a very wide aperture of f/1.8. The background is severely compressed, and quite blurry, which leads to a rather pleasing portrait.

Background compression can be a bit tricky to understand, but if you play around with different focal lengths you should get the hang of it quickly. Then it’s just a matter of figuring out how to use it to your advantage to create the type of shot you want–especially when doing portraits.

Have you tried using this technique in your own photography? What other tips do you have to share about creative uses for background and foreground compression? Leave your thoughts in the comments below, and feel free to share any example images you have as well.

This week on dPS we’re featuring a series of articles about composition. Many different elements and ways to compose images for more impact. Check out the ones we’ve done so far:

Using Framing for More Effective Compositions
7 Tips to Improve Your Skyline Photos
33 Images that Exemplify Compositional Elements
Weekly Photography Challenge – Composition Craziness
How to Take Control of Aperture and Create Stronger Photos
How Cropping in Post-Production Can Improve Composition
Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits

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4 Things You Should Know About Focal Length and Composition

13 Nov

Lenses are the eye of your camera. The focal length of a lens (and your point of view) determine how much of the subject your camera sees.

You may already be familiar with the basics, and understand the difference between, say, wide-angle and telephoto lenses, but let’s dive into the the topic a little deeper to see what’s really going on.

focal length and composition

There are four fundamental things to know and understand about the focal length and composition.

1. Focal length is not as important as field-of-view

There are two factors that determine the field-of-view of a lens:

The focal length.
The digital sensor or film size

Field-of-view (sometimes called angle-of-view) is far more important than focal length, because it tells you how much of the scene the lens sees. However, as field-of-view changes according to sensor size, manufacturers tell us the focal length instead. Focal length is a fixed measurement that doesn’t change (it is literally the distance from the middle of the lens to the focal plane, which is the sensor).

Here are some practical examples.

Example #1 – 50mm prime lens

A 50mm prime lens has a field-of-view of 47 degrees on a full-frame camera. This field-of-view approximates what we see with our own eyes. But what happens when you put the 50mm lens on an APS-C camera (crop factor of 1.6x)? The crop factor of the smaller sensor means that the lens now has a field-of-view of around 30 degrees, making it a short telephoto lens.

This change in field-of-view means that you have to move further away from your subject in order to fit it in the frame, which also changes the perspective (giving the compressed effect that characterizes short telephoto lenses).

If you want the equivalent of a 50mm lens on an APS-C camera you need to use a focal length of around 31mm, as it has the same field-of-view (47 degrees).

A prime lens with that focal length doesn’t exist (you could choose between a 28mm or a 35mm depending on whether you wanted a slightly wider or a tighter field-of-view), but you can set that focal length if you have a zoom.

50mm lens, full-frame camera. The lens has a field-of-view of 47 degrees.

50mm lens, APS-C camera. The same lens has a field of view of 30 degrees with this camera.

Example #2 – 21mm lens

The same applies to wide-angle lenses. A 21mm prime lens has a field-of-view of around 92 degrees. That’s a nice wide field-of-view ideal for landscape photography, or creating images with dramatic perspective.

But put it on an APS-C camera the field of view narrows to around 65 degrees. It’s still a wide-angle, but the effect is much more moderate. It now has nearly the same field-of-view as a 35mm lens does on a full-frame camera

To get the same field-of-view as the 21mm lens (on a full frame) you would use a 14mm lens (on an APS-C camera).

This photo was taken with a 14mm lens on an APS-C camera. It has the same field-of-view as a 21mm lens does on a full-frame camera.

Example #3 – 16mm lenses

It’s even possible to have two lenses with the same focal length, but different fields-of-view (on the same camera).

A 16mm wide-angle lens has a field-of-view of 107 degrees – but a 16mm fisheye has a field-of-view of 180 degrees.

They have the same focal length but each one is designed for a different purpose. The 16mm wide-angle is designed to keep straight lines straight. The fisheye doesn’t try to do that, and as a result has a much wider field-of-view.

This table shows the field-of-view of common focal lengths with full-frame, APS-C and micro four-thirds cameras.

focal length and composition

The next points explore the relationship between field-of-view and composition.

2. Wide-angle lenses are lenses of inclusion

You can think of any lens with a field-of-view wider than around 63 degrees as being a wide-angle. That’s 35mm or shorter on a full-frame camera, 20mm on APS-C, and around 18mm on micro four-thirds.

Wide-angle lenses have two characteristics that affect composition:

The wide field-of-view means that you have to move in close to your subject to fill the frame. But, at the same time wide-angle lenses also include quite a bit of the background. The shorter the focal length, the closer you need to get, and the more background is included.
Wide-angle lenses also appear to have more depth-of-field at any given aperture setting than longer focal lengths (they actually don’t, it has to do with lens to subject distance which also changes with focal length).

These two factors combine to make wide-angle lenses, ones of inclusion. You can always fit more into the frame with a wide-angle lens, no matter how close you get to your subject. The background is also more likely to appear more in focus, than it is with longer focal lengths. Getting in close, creates the dramatic perspective that some photographers love. It emphasizes line, and creates a sense of depth, that images taken with longer focal lengths can lack.

The slightest change in your point of view makes a dramatic difference to the composition of the photo. The shorter the focal length, the more this applies. As wide-angle lenses include so much background it can be difficult to simplify the composition and remove all distractions. There’s no way around it, it’s just a characteristic you have to embrace.

This photo, taken with an 18mm lens (APS-C), includes the buildings, the city wall, the reflection in the water, the city trees disappearing into the distance, and keeps everything in sharp focus.

3. Telephoto lenses are lenses of exclusion

A telephoto lens is one that has a field-of-view of around 30 degrees or less. That’s around 85mm or longer on a full-frame camera, 50mm on an APS-C camera, and 40mm on micro four-thirds.

Telephoto lenses are ones of exclusion. They have a narrow field-of-view. Fill the frame with your subject, and you won’t get much background in at all. It is also easy to throw the background out of focus by using a wide aperture, and making sure there is sufficient distance between your subject and the background.

This photo, taken with a 50-150mm lens set to 72 mm (APS-C), shows the woman’s hands and the textiles she is selling. There is not much in the background at all.

4. Normal lenses occupy the middle ground

Normal lenses, those with a field-of-view somewhere around 55 degrees, occupy the middle ground between wide-angle and telephoto. They don’t create images with the dramatic perspective that you can obtain with a wide-angle, nor do they exclude the background to the same extent as telephotos.

If you have a normal prime lens you can open the aperture up to defocus the background, sometimes quite dramatically if you get close enough to the subject. But, you can also often stop down enough to get everything within the frame in focus.

I took this photo with a 35mm lens, a normal lens on an APS-C camera. It lacks the dramatic perspective, and wide field-of-view of the photos taken with wide-angle lenses. But it includes more of the background and shows less compression than the photos taken with telephoto lenses.

Your turn

Can you think of anything else that photographers ought to know about focal length, field-of-view, and composition? If so, please let us know in the comments. I’d like to hear your thoughts.

Note: this is the second in a series of articles on dPS this week talking about composition. See: Using Framing for More Effective Compositions and look for more over the next few days.

Mastering Composition

My new ebook Mastering Composition will help you learn to see and compose photos better. It takes you on a journey beyond the rule of thirds, exploring the principles of composition you need to understand in order to make beautiful imag

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