improve « 360Photography

RSS

Posts Tagged ‘improve’

6 Tips to Improve Your Black and White Landscape Photography

25 Jul

The post 6 Tips to Improve Your Black and White Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

black and white landscape photography tips

Are you looking to take your black and white landscape photography to the next level?

You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, we share six easy-to-follow tips that’ll improve your black and white landscapes; we also share plenty of examples, so you can understand exactly what goes into a good black and white photo.

Specifically, you’ll discover:

The best camera settings for black and white photography
How to enhance your b&w landscapes with filters
What to look for in a landscape scene
Much, much more!

So if you’re ready to capture black and white shots like the pros…

…then let’s get started!

1. Learn what scenes work well in black and white

When shooting in color, you can rely on the strength of hues to create drama and interest. Often, the key to good color landscape photography is to find a dramatic scene and photograph it in the most beautiful light possible. That’s why so many color landscape photos are taken during the golden hour or just after sunset.

Black and white landscape photography is very, very different. Without color, you have to work to create strong compositions. You can’t rely on color contrast and golden light; instead, you need to learn to look for the building blocks of photographic composition, such as leading lines, shapes, patterns, tonal contrast, and texture. In other words, you must learn to see in black and white.

For example, this photo works well in black and white because of the contrast between the twin waterfalls and the dark rocks:

Educate yourself about black and white landscape photography by looking at the work of masters, like Ansel Adams and Edward Weston, who worked predominantly in black and white. Also, look at what modern-day photographers are doing on Instagram and 500px. Some names to search for include Cole Thompson, Rob Dweck, Arnaud Bertrande, Thibault Roland, Joel Tjintjelaar, and Nathan Wirth.

When you look at their work, ask yourself: What makes their black and white landscape photos so dramatic and powerful? What light are they shooting in? What photographic techniques are they using? How do they approach composition? The answers will teach you a lot about black and white photography and will help you understand which elements and scenes lend themselves to black and white and which are best avoided.

2. Look for tonal contrast and texture

I touched on this in the previous tip, but I want to emphasize it here because it’s so important.

Tonal contrast is the term used to describe variations in brightness between different parts of the image. Take the photo below as an example; the jetties are dark and the sky is much lighter. That is tonal contrast. And it looks amazing in black and white.

lighthouses out at sea in black and white

The alternative – low tonal contrast – tends to look very mushy and flat. Tones don’t separate out, key elements fade into one another, and the composition loses impact. Remember: You can’t rely on changes in color to differentiate key elements, so it becomes all about the tones.

Texture (and contrast between textures) is super helpful, as well. If you think about the elements that appear in landscape photos – cliffs, rocks, grass, trees, mountains, oceans, along with human-made objects like piers, jetties, and old barns – you’ll notice that they all have distinct textures. Some feature rough, heavy textures, while others are intensely smooth.

In the photo below, the arch, the cliffs in the distance, and the rocks in the foreground are all heavily textured. The sea and the sky are much smoother. There is a strong contrast between the roughness of the rocks and the smoothness of the sea and the sky.

And thanks to that textural contrast, the photo is much more impactful!

3. Shoot in black and white mode

Did you know that your digital camera can teach you to see in black and white?

All you have to do is set it to its black and white (monochrome) mode. Your camera’s rear LCD will show you a black and white Live View feed – and if your camera includes an electronic viewfinder, it’ll turn black and white, too (you can literally look at the world in black and white – how cool is that?).

As you can imagine, constantly looking at the world through a black and white LCD or viewfinder helps you see how black and white scenes are rendered. This, in turn, makes it easier to see how a photo will turn out in black and white. And it’s also just far easier to compose black and white shots in black and white because you can see how tonal contrast, texture, lines, shapes, patterns, and light will affect the landscape.

One note, though: Don’t forget to set your camera to shoot in RAW. RAW files contain all the information captured by your camera’s sensor, including color – so if you decide you don’t like an image in black and white, you can always convert it to color and process it that way instead.

4. Learn to use neutral density filters

Neutral density filters are the secret weapon of the black and white landscape photographer. Grab one (or more) of these accessories, and you’ll be able to capture jaw-dropping images beyond your wildest dreams.

(Am I exaggerating? Honestly, I don’t think so. Neutral density filters are a huge deal.)

But what makes ND filters so special?

ND filters are basically dark pieces of glass that go in front of your lens and prevent too much light from hitting your camera sensor. In other words, ND filters block out the light.

Now, as a landscape photographer without an ND filter, you’ll often be using a shutter speed between 1/2s and 1/125s, assuming you’re shooting with a relatively narrow aperture of f/13 or so (which is generally a good idea).

But what if you want to increase your shutter speed for creative effect? By lengthening your shutter speed, you can blur water, stretch clouds, and create all sorts of other cool effects that look amazing (especially in black and white).

Unfortunately, in most situations, dropping the shutter speed beyond 1/2s or so just can’t be done. The light is too strong; if you try it, you’ll end up with an overexposed image.

Unless you have an item that can block out the light – such as a neutral density filter! The ND filter keeps your camera from overexposing the scene even when you’re dealing with lots of light. That way, you can get the stretchy clouds and blurry water that you’re after.

For an example, check out the photos below. The first was taken at dusk with a shutter speed of 1/5s; slow enough to introduce some blur into the water, but not slow enough to really flatten out the water while making the clouds turn into interesting streaks:

Then I added a neutral density filter and made the next photo using a shutter speed of 180 seconds. The water is completely blurred, and the clouds have moved across the sky for a streaking effect:

long exposure black and white seaside landscape photo

Bottom line:

Neutral density filters give you control over your shutter speed, which you can then use to enhance your black and white landscapes.

5. Don’t just take photos like everyone else

Black and white landscape photographer Cole Thompson has an interesting idea. He practices what he calls “photographic abstinence,” where he doesn’t look at the work of other photographers. The theory is that it enables him to see the landscape through his own eyes without being influenced by other people’s photos.

I’ve never taken this idea to its extreme; I believe it’s important to research an area before you go to find its most photogenic parts. But the problem is that the most powerful images you see during your research tend to stick in your mind. The natural tendency is to want to create similar images – which then end up looking like everybody else’s.

Resist this urge. Instead, take some black and white images that are truly you.

Let me give you an example. A few years ago, I visited the Playa de las Catedrales (Cathedral Beach) in northern Spain. Search for it on Google or 500px, and most photos will look something like this, showing the cathedral-like arches for which the beach is named:

Anybody who visits the beach will naturally want to take photos of those arches. They’re the reason the spot is famous, after all. But this can be a hindrance when it causes you to miss other possibilities.

So after getting my rock arch photos (such as the shot displayed above), I really started looking. I saw some rocks in the sea that made an interesting minimalistic composition. I made the following photo:

It doesn’t feature the arches the beach is famous for. But it’s more personal to me and was more satisfying to make.

6. Travel when you can

All the photos that I have shown you so far were taken while traveling – and unless you are lucky enough to live in a breathtaking area, it’s likely that, like me, you need to travel to find inspiring landscapes to photograph.

Even if you do live somewhere with spectacular landscapes, you will need to travel to expand your experiences and add depth to your portfolio. All my favorite landscape photos were taken while traveling, and the two activities really do go together very well – travel is more interesting and exciting when there’s a purpose behind it, and landscape photography can give you that purpose.

Without travel, I would never have experienced and photographed places like this (taken in Bolivia):

At the same time, I recognize that traveling is costly and time-consuming. So even if you can’t travel, try to cultivate a traveling mindset – where you see the world around you with fresh, new eyes. Tackle more familiar scenes with this newfound excitement (and you’ll be amazed by what you start to see!).

Black and white landscape photography: final words

Hopefully, this article has given you plenty of helpful tips and tricks for black and white landscape photography.

So get outside. Give black and white shooting a try! It’s a new way of seeing the world – and one that can be a lot of fun.

Now over to you:

Do you have any tips for black and white landscape photography? Share them in the comments below!

The post 6 Tips to Improve Your Black and White Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

Digital Photography School

Comments Off

Posted in Photography

13 iPhone Camera Settings to Improve Your Photos

17 Jun

The post 13 iPhone Camera Settings to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

There is an amazing array of iPhone camera settings you can tweak, customize, and configure to get just the right shots. Some of these settings are obvious, but others are buried beneath layers of buttons and menus and are easy to miss.

And while anyone can take great shots on an iPhone just by launching the camera and pressing the shutter button, learning a few of the custom options can truly take your iPhone photography to the next level.

13 iphone camera settings to improve your photos

Also, most of these iPhone tips and tricks are available no matter your iPhone model – so even if your iPhone is a few years old, you can still access some very helpful settings.

Are you ready to discover 13 highly useful iPhone settings?

Let’s dive right in.

lake with fluffy clouds — A picture of a lake near the United States/Canada border (shot with my iPhone). When you know how to tweak your iPhone camera settings, you can get the shots you’re looking for.

1. Show and hide camera options

Nestled near the top of the iPhone camera is a thin strip (with the Flash icon on the left and the Live Photos icon on the right, as displayed below). Situated directly between these two icons is a small arrow pointing up, like the ^ caret above the number six on a keyboard:

camera options iPhone camera settings — Tap the ^ icon at the top of the camera interface to show/hide the camera options icons at the bottom.

Tap the caret at the top to show and hide a row of options near the bottom of the camera interface. As you can see in the screenshot above, this uncovers a handful of useful options, including filters and real-time cropping.

Another way to access these settings? Press your finger directly on the middle of your iPhone screen with the camera open, then swipe up or down. This yields the same result as tapping on the ^ icon, but some people find the press-and-swipe method to be a little more convenient. Either way, the hidden row of options puts some powerful tools right at your fingertips and can help you instantly take better photos.

One caveat: When you reveal this row of settings icons, your normal photo modes, such as Pano, Portrait, and Video, disappear. You can still access them by pressing on the middle of your phone and dragging your finger to the right or left, but it’s easy to get lost without seeing the name of the mode you are currently using.

I recommend you first set the photo mode (i.e. Portrait, Photo, etc.), and only then reveal the row of camera options icons.

2. Use the volume buttons as your camera shutter

When Steve Jobs introduced the iPhone in 2007, he proudly declared that it would not have a keyboard (much to the chagrin of smartphone users around the world!). Replacing the physical keys was a revolutionary touchscreen that could transform into whatever the developer wanted.

While the touchscreen was a brilliant move, it meant some common actions like snapping a picture became a little more tricky. It’s not always easy to hold your phone just right and press the shutter button at the same time.

Fortunately, there’s an easy fix for this common frustration:

Press the volume-up button to snap a picture.

This feature is enabled by default, but many users aren’t aware that it exists. Once you learn to use it, you won’t ever want to go back to awkwardly tapping the touchscreen to take pictures.

(Also, quick tip: When you press and hold the volume-up button, your phone will begin recording a movie. Release the button to stop recording.)

Many people don’t know this, but the volume buttons on any iPhone can be used to take a picture. You don’t have to change any settings to do it – it’s enabled by default.

3. Shoot in burst mode

An iPhone might not seem like the ideal device for action photography. After all, it can’t compare to a high-end DSLR or mirrorless camera that can fire off a burst of photos in rapid succession.

Or can it?

In fact, iPhones offer a burst mode – and with it, you can get action shots you never thought possible. You can shoot dozens of rapid-fire photos, then choose the best one from the batch.

Here’s how it works:

With the Camera app open, press and hold the shutter button, then quickly slide your finger all the way to the left. Burst mode will activate, you’ll start taking a series of images, and you’ll see a counter with the number of captured shots.

Use this during moments of fast action. You’ll always end up with those split-second, perfectly timed shots – without spending thousands of dollars on high-end camera equipment.

burst mode is a key iPhone camera setting — Press and drag the shutter button with your finger to take a burst of photos. The shutter button displays your photo count.

4. Press and hold the volume button for a photo burst

Burst mode is great, but what if you prefer using the camera volume buttons to snap pictures? If you press and hold the volume button, your phone starts recording a movie, not a burst – but did you know that you can force the volume buttons to shoot in burst mode when held down?

First, navigate to the Settings app. Then scroll down to Camera.

Next, look for the option that says Use Volume Up for Burst, and tap to enable it.

That’s it! Now, if you hold the volume-up button, your iPhone will fire off a burst – and if you hold the volume-down button, you’ll record a movie. It’s the best of both worlds, and a setting I highly recommend. You never know whether you’ll need a burst or a movie, so it helps to have both options at your fingertips!

5. Use the built-in self-timer

Sometimes, you don’t want to take a photo the instant you press the shutter button. DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have a built-in self-timer; it lets you set a delay from the time you press the shutter to the time the camera actually takes a picture.

At first glance, this feature may seem missing from iPhones. But with a quick tap or swipe, you can activate the self-timer and start taking control of your photos.

Here’s what you do:

First, show the row of extra camera options by tapping the caret at the top of the screen (as described in Point 1 of this article).

Then press the Timer icon. Select either Off, 3s, or 10s:

iPhone Camera Settings self timer — To use the built-in self-timer, tap the *Timer* icon. Then specify whether to use the 3-second or 10-second delay.

Now, when you press the shutter button, you’ll get a delay before your iPhone snaps the photo.

It helps to have a tripod to hold your phone steady, but the timer works fine for selfie shots, too. That way, you can snap a picture without trying to position the phone and fire your iPhone shutter at the same time.

6. Real-time aspect-ratio cropping

As experienced users know, it’s easy to crop a photo on an iPhone. Just tap on the image, hit Edit, and then press the Crop button.

But while this process works well for cropping your photos after you take them, what if you want to start with a cropped display and frame your image accordingly?

Some high-end cameras allow you to select custom crops when you take photos, and the iPhone has this ability, too.

First, tap the caret at the top of the screen to reveal the hidden camera options. Then, tap the 4:3 button (which represents the 4:3 ratio in which iPhone photos are shot):

iPhone Camera Settings real-time cropping — To use real-time cropping, access the hidden camera options and tap the *4:3* icon. Then specify what type of crop you want: Square, 4:3, or 16:9. Note that these options might be slightly different depending on your iPhone model.

Now you can choose whether to shoot in a 4:3, Square (1:1), or 16:9 aspect ratio – and you won’t have to go through the painstaking process of cropping your photos individually afterward.

school campus — Real-time cropping lets you see how your cropped photo will turn out (without any guesswork).

7. Portrait Lighting

In 2016, the iPhone 7 Plus was released with the first iteration of Portrait mode.

Portrait mode essentially mimics the blurry background effect you can get with a DSLR or mirrorless camera, but with Apple software algorithms. And the blur mimicry has gotten much better since those early incarnations, and now incorporates a feature called Portrait Lighting. This gives your Portrait mode images the appearance of being captured in various lighting conditions, and the result is so good it’s downright uncanny.

To access Portrait Lighting, first put your phone in Portrait mode (find it in the mode options just above the shutter button).

You should see a series of circles above the Portrait label; these are your different Portrait Lighting effects:

The default lighting mode for portraits is “Natural Light” but this can be changed to “Studio Light,” “Stage Light,” “Contour Light,” and more. You actually see the effect in real time, so you know how the finished result will look, and you can change lighting modes as much as you want before you take a picture.

Portrait Lighting is a great way to punch up your portraits, and you can even go back and change the Portrait Lighting effect afterward when editing a Portrait mode image in the photo library.

8. Use filters as you shoot

Instagram and other social networks popularized the idea of filters, and now it’s almost strange to see photos without some kind of filter applied. The most common way of using filters is to snap a photo and then apply the filter afterward – but your iPhone camera has an option to use filters as you shoot.

With this, you can see what your edited pictures will look like before you even take them.

filters on an iPhone — Filters can be applied as you shoot your images so you can see *exactly* what the final result will look like.

To use real-time filters, access the camera options by tapping the caret at the top of the screen. Then tap the icon with three intersecting circles.

The filter options will appear, and you’ll be able to choose from a variety of looks, including Vivid Warm, Dramatic Cool, Silvertone, and more. I find this method much more practical than applying filters after I take a photo, plus seeing your filters applied in real time can have a dramatic effect on your images!

9. Choose your preferred photo format (HEIF vs JPEG)

Until recently, the iPhone shot pictures in JPEG format. But while JPEGs are a good compromise between quality and file size, they’re ill-suited for today’s users, who want features like HDR imaging while still keeping file sizes small.

HEIF is a new file type designed to solve this problem, and it’s now the default format for iPhone photos.

Unfortunately, not everyone has a device that can load HEIF images, which makes sharing iPhone photos somewhat problematic – unless you know a handy iPhone settings solution.

Go to Settings, then Photos, and scroll all the way to the bottom to Transfer to Mac or PC. The Automatic setting will convert HEIF pictures to JPEG when sending them to a device that can’t read HEIF images. (Keep Originals will always send images as HEIFs).

You can also change the image format from HEIF to JPEG or JPEG to HEIF. Go to Settings, then Camera, and select Formats:

iPhone Camera Settings heif jpeg — *High Efficiency* is a good option for saving space, but *Most Compatible* uses the more common JPEG format.

If you tap High Efficiency, your iPhone will shoot HEIFs – whereas selecting Most Compatible forces your camera to use JPEGs.

Generally, I recommend shooting photos in HEIF and leaving Transfer to Mac or PC on Automatic. But it’s always useful to know how to change these settings to your liking!

10. Optimize iPhone storage

If you take a lot of pictures on your iPhone, you might quickly find yourself running out of storage space. And while you can’t add more storage to your iPhone, there is a trick that lets you take tons of photos without worrying too much about using up space on your phone: storage optimization.

Go to Settings, then tap Photos. Look for the Optimize iPhone Storage option:

This will automatically upload the photos to your iCloud account while keeping tiny, low-resolution thumbnails on your iPhone. Then, when you load a photo, the original is automatically downloaded from iCloud.

A caveat is that you need enough space on your iCloud account to accommodate your photos. Unlike your iPhone, you can add more iCloud storage, but you will have to pay. Prices range from one to ten dollars a month, and the one-dollar plan is plenty for most people.

So if you find yourself constantly running low on iPhone storage because of all your photos, don’t delete them! Just use the Optimize iPhone Storage option and let iCloud take care of the rest.

11. Show/hide the camera grid

Many DSLR and mirrorless cameras have grid overlays that help you compose your shots. They’re a great way to make sure your horizons are level, and you can use them to guide your rule-of-thirds compositions.

But did you know that your iPhone also has a grid?

All you have to do is select Settings, then Camera, and enable the Grid option.

iPhone Camera Settings show hide grid — Enable the Grid option in your Settings to display a grid overlay as you shoot pictures.

Now, when you take a photo, you will see a 3-by-3 grid, like this:

campus library and garden — The grid overlay is a great way to make sure your photos are straight and well-composed!

12. Adjust the blur strength in Portrait mode

The iPhone camera has a fixed-aperture lens.

What does this mean? Well, unlike a DSLR or mirrorless camera, you can’t decide whether to shoot wide open or stopped down – and so you don’t have control over the background blur.

Except that, when shooting in Portrait mode, your iPhone does let you customize the level of blur. This effectively mimics aperture adjustments (through software trickery).

First, select Portrait mode from the mode options. Then tap the f icon in the top-right corner.

A slider should appear at the bottom of the camera screen; it approximates various f-stops of a camera lens:

iPhone Camera Settings portrait blur — Once in Portrait Mode, tap the f button in the top-right corner. Then drag the slider above the shutter button left and right to increase and decrease background blur.

Slide all the way to the left for f/1.4 and all the way to the right for f/16. You will see the blur change in real time as you adjust the slider. I often find that the default value selected by my iPhone (usually between f/2.8 and f/4.5) is great, but it’s nice to be able to customize.

portrait blur example — You can adjust the blur level of your Portrait mode backgrounds (even on some lower-end iPhones with a single camera).

13. Preserve Settings

This final trick isn’t going to do anything for your photos, but it could save your sanity! If you find yourself frequently using a specific filter, adjustment, or Live Photos setting, you can tell your iPhone to preserve those settings – instead of forcing you to enable them one by one every time you take a picture.

Enabling the Preserve Settings option is simple:

Tap Settings > Camera > Preserve Settings:

iPhone Camera Settings preserve settings — The *Preserve Settings* option lets you keep all your favorite settings in place.

Here, you can specify the settings you want your iPhone to remember. Then, every time you open the Camera app, all your custom settings will remain just as you left them.

iPhone camera settings: final words

Well, I hope you found these tips helpful! Note that these are just some of the iPhone camera settings you can change to help customize your photography experience. There are dozens of other options to change and tweak, and with just a bit of practice, you will soon find yourself adjusting plenty of settings to suit your needs.

Also, don’t be afraid to poke around in the Camera app and Camera Settings menu. You just might find some new options you didn’t know existed!

iPhone camera settings FAQs

Do I need a high-end iPhone to use Portrait mode?

The first iPhones to do Portrait mode combined pictures from two separate cameras. Now, iPhones with only a single camera offer Portrait mode thanks to advanced software algorithms. Even the iPhone SE, the lowest-priced iPhone, can do it with the rear camera and the front-facing selfie camera.

How can I stop my iPhone pictures from looking blurry?

If your photos are blurry, your iPhone is probably having trouble focusing. Tap the screen to focus in one particular area, then give your phone a half-second to adjust focus. That should help keep your photos sharp.

Why can’t I use Night mode on my iPhone?

While all the settings in this article can be used on virtually every iPhone, Night mode requires special hardware and is therefore only available on certain models. If you try to take a photo in dimly lit conditions and your iPhone has Night mode, it will automatically show up as an option. If you don’t see Night Mode appear, then your iPhone probably does not have this feature.

What are the best settings for casual, everyday use?

If you’re feeling overwhelmed at all the iPhone camera settings, my advice is to just ignore everything and go take some pictures. The default values for your iPhone camera are just fine. You don’t have to change, tweak, or customize anything to get great photos.

The post 13 iPhone Camera Settings to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Digital Photography School

Comments Off

Posted in Photography

7 Composition and Lighting Tips to Improve Your Landscape Photos (Video)

13 Jun

The post 7 Composition and Lighting Tips to Improve Your Landscape Photos (Video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Looking to take your landscape photography to the next level?

In this video, professional landscape photographer Nigel Danson takes you through his shooting process and shares 7 simple tips and tricks to elevate your photos. While Danson mostly focuses on composition, he throws in a couple of lighting tips for good measure – and each piece of advice is carefully illustrated with breathtaking video footage and stellar example photos.

So give it a watch! And then leave a comment below, letting us know your favorite tip from the video.

The post 7 Composition and Lighting Tips to Improve Your Landscape Photos (Video) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Digital Photography School

Comments Off

Posted in Photography

Video: How to improve your compositions, from a photographer who worked with Ansel Adams

27 Apr

Born in 1949, award-winning photographer Huntington Witherill has been a fine art photographer since 1970. Witherill was fortunate enough to have worked with the famous Ansel Adams, among other notable photographers like Wynn Bullock, Steve Crouch, and Al Weber. Over the past 50 years, Witherill has learned a lot about photography. He recently chatted with Marc Silber of Advancing Your Photography to discuss composition.

In the video below, Silber asks Witherill the core areas he considers in terms of composition. Witherill replies, ‘Well, I think as an overriding sort of mantra for composition, I always like to refer to the way Edward Weston described composition, as being the strongest way of seeing.’ Witherill pays attention to everything in a scene, rather than what attracted him to the scene in the first place. When out shooting, it’s common to be drawn to a specific element of a scene. However, when making a composition, you don’t want to ignore everything in the scene. ‘Finding the strongest way of seeing is really, to my way of thinking, intellectualizing within myself what it is that attracted me to the scene in the first place. And then, doing my best to include all of that within the photograph itself and eliminate everything else out of the photograph,’ Witherill says.

In the video above, Witherill refers to an article he wrote in 2019, ‘The Strongest Way of Seeing.’ In this article, Witherill writes, ‘When it comes to the art of creating successful photographs, formulating an effective composition must surely be at (or near) the top of the list in terms of relative importance.’ He goes on to say when discussing whether or not there are prescribed rules of composition which could always prove successful, ‘As it also turns out, knowing where best to point your camera requires a skill set whose precepts appear to be instinctively derived, rather than intellectually prescribed. What might work in one situation can often prove disastrous in another. As such, employing a formulaic approach to composition will, more often than not, prove ineffectual.’

However, that is not to say that trying to improve your composition or that learning more about composition is a fool’s errand. While Witherill doesn’t believe that composition is a skill that can be taught in a rote fashion, he believes there are steps you can take to make it easier to ‘see’ composition in the field. Witherill likes to squint at a scene, which makes it easier to see the overall shapes and arrange a composition, as you are no longer able to focus on the finer details.

To learn more of Huntington Witherill’s tips for composition, watch the full video above. To view more of Witherill’s work, visit his website. For more videos from Marc Silber, visit the Advancing Your Photography YouTube channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

Comments Off

Posted in Uncategorized

15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions)

27 Apr

The post 15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

In this article, we share 15 rule of thirds examples – so you can see this helpful compositional rule in action.

If you’ve been struggling to understand the rule of thirds, or if you’re simply looking for rule of thirds inspiration, you’ve come to the right place.

Let’s get started!

1. Focus

The rule of thirds was designed to simplify artistic composition. The rule suggests that you break down scenes into nine equal parts separated by two evenly spaced horizontal and vertical lines, like this:

Rule of thirds examples - a macro photograph of a fern in black and white — The grid overlay allows you to easily visualize the rule of thirds.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.5 | 1/80s | ISO 100

Important compositional elements can then be positioned along the lines of the grid, in the off-center rectangles, or at the grid’s intersections.

In this photograph of a native fern (above), the sharpest point aligns with the top-left intersection of the rule of thirds grid. This composition generates more interest and depth than a centered subject, engaging the viewer and guiding the eye.

2. Lines

people with rope rule of thirds example — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/160s | ISO 125

In this street scene, the majority of the subjects are positioned in off-center rectangles. Additionally, the two white road lines roughly align with the two horizontal gridlines. This distribution of subjects activates the edges of the photograph, adding a sense of expansion and narrative.

3. Pattern

rule of thirds example pattern in window — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/100 | ISO 250

The pattern in this decorative window suggests an overall uniformity. However, the clearest pattern elements are only visible in the upper-left corner of the rule of thirds grid.

This invites the viewer’s eye to explore the various intricate perspectives that make up the scene.

4. Insects

Rule of thirds example - a bee on a flower — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/4.5 | 1/1000s | ISO 400

Here’s a fun rule of thirds example with an insect!

Insects can be tricky to photograph, but applying the rule of thirds can help create a more dynamic composition. If you compose with an insect off-center, you’ll capture a more natural image that alludes to the movement and life of a living creature.

5. Motion

Rule of thirds examples - a Boeing 737 on approach to land at Sydney International Airport — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/16 | 1/400s | ISO 200

One of the main reasons for observing the rule of thirds is to discourage photographers from placing a subject at the center of a photograph. With the help of the rule of thirds, you can create more engaging interactions between the image and the viewer.

We know the standard trajectory of an aircraft. But in the example above, by framing the subject off-center, I was able to generate a clear sense of motion.

6. Depth

Rule of thirds example - flowers in black and white — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 100

There are many ways to increase the sense of depth in a photograph. By offsetting the sharply focused main subject (i.e., by following the rule of thirds!), you can achieve a sense of spaciousness and three-dimensionality throughout your image.

7. Narrative

car wash window rule of thirds — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/7.1 | 1/100s | ISO 100

A lot is happening in the center of this image. However, the driving figure behind the central feature is positioned off to the left, creating a shadowy clue to the story behind the photograph.

8. It doesn’t have to be perfect

Rule of thirds example - ducks fly ahead of a large storm cloud — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/11 | 1/500s | ISO 100

Despite its name, the rule of thirds is more like a guide than an unbreakable law. In the image above, three ducks make their way across a thunderous cloudscape. However, while one of the ducks is precisely aligned with the right vertical of the grid, the other two ducks are positioned independently on either side.

Nevertheless, the offset position of the ducks counterbalances the weight of the storm clouds, creating a dramatic juxtaposition. It just goes to show that the rule of thirds can be a flexible guide rather than a rigid rule.

9. Directing the eye

rule of thirds flowers — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.2 | 1/800s | ISO 200

In this image, the emphasis is placed squarely on select areas of the flower. By positioning the subject away from the image center, you can draw the viewer’s eye toward the frame’s corners.

10. Weight

grassy landscape — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/7.1 | 1/100s | ISO 100

Every element in a composition has a weight, one that’s based on perceptions and real-life experience.

Darker, denser subject matter feels heavier than lighter, airier subject matter. Using the rule of thirds to group darker or lighter subject matter together in one area of an image can emphasize this weight. In the image above, lighter areas toward the bottom contrast with a dense area of shadow in the top third of the frame.

11. Balance

Rule of thirds examples - a canopy of tree branches and leaves — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/125s | ISO 100

The canopy of leaves creates an engaging pattern, punctuated by the dark branches of trees – the heaviest of which are positioned toward the edges of the image.

With the help of the rule of thirds, this balance of lightness and heaviness creates an interesting and harmonious composition.

12. Less can be more

Rule of thirds examples - a black an white photograph of an empty carpark — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/6.3 | 1/250s | ISO 100

These rule of thirds examples can be a handy reminder that less is often more. By organizing subjects in accordance with the rule of thirds grid, you can give an image room to generate its own visual momentum.

13. Adding detail

a black and white macro photograph of a white lily. — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/1.8 | 1/640s | ISO 100

This macro image of a lily contains plenty of information around the central area of the composition. However, additional off-center details make the most of the image space, adding a sense of expansive detail to the photograph.

14. Abstraction

Rule of thirds examples - an abstracted image of a leaf — Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/1.8 | 1/40s | ISO 320

Even abstract photography can benefit from the rule of thirds. Here, I’ve positioned an out-of-focus leaf so it intersects with the rule of thirds gridline.

15. Space

Rule of thirds examples a grassy field in black and white. — Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/8 | 1/160s | ISO 100

When a scene is full of information, incorporating an area of reduced activity can add more depth.

So rather than aligning a subject with the rule of thirds grid, try aligning the grid with an emptier portion of the scene. This allows the viewer to visually digest the image and better grasp the scene’s context and behavior.

Rule of thirds examples: final words

As these 15 rule of thirds examples have demonstrated, having a good grounding in compositional theory can be highly useful!

So while the rule of thirds is more like a guide than a strict rule, use it to help you arrange the various elements of your photos.

Now over to you:

Do you use the rule of thirds in your photography? Share some of your own rule of thirds examples in the comments below!

The post 15 Rule of Thirds Examples (to Improve Your Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

Digital Photography School

Comments Off

Posted in Photography

Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos

21 Apr

The post Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

What is smartphone RAW photography, and how can you set up RAW imaging on your phone? If high-quality photos are your goal, you must know how to do smartphone RAW photography.

For a long time, only standalone cameras supported RAW format. But these days, many smartphone manufacturers are including it as a feature on their devices – and in this article, I’ll share with you step-by-step instructions for capturing RAW photos on iPhones, Samsung phones, and Huawei phones.

And in case your native camera app doesn’t support RAW, I’ll include a list of third-party apps that produce RAW photos.

Let’s get started.

What is smartphone RAW photography?

native camera smartphone RAW photography — RAW format on the left/JPEG format on the right (taken in the Huawei P20 Lite native camera app.)

A RAW file is the unprocessed version of a photo. When you take a photograph, the camera records all sorts of information.

Then, if it saves it in JPEG – which is the most common format – it will use only the information it needs and discard the rest.

After that process, there’s no way to recover the information that was thrown away. So you’ll have less dynamic range and fewer details in the highlights and shadows. (The loss of information will be more noticeable if you want to do extreme editing, which can lead to unpleasant artifacts such as banding.)

smartphone RAW photography in Lightroom Mobile — Both these images were taken using the Lightroom app on a Xiaomi Redmi 8. There’s faint color banding in the sky on the JPEG image (right).

Most camera manufacturers have proprietary RAW file formats. For example, Nikon cameras generate NEF files, Canon files are CRW, and so on.

DNG format was developed by Adobe as an open-source RAW file, so it’s more compatible and any manufacturer can use it. In smartphone photography, DNG is the most commonly used RAW format.

Should you shoot in RAW on a smartphone?

If you want to do serious mobile photography, then yes. Photographing in RAW gives you great flexibility when you edit your photos.

However, RAW files are 10 to 12 times bigger than JPEG files – and that’s a lot of storage space. So you might not want to shoot in RAW for every single picture that you take.

If it’s an option on your phone, save the images to an SD card instead of the internal memory. Another storage solution is to send your files to the cloud or transfer them to your computer to be backed up on an external hard drive.

How to shoot in RAW: Step by step

Not all phones support RAW format, and the ones that do have different ways of enabling it.

Here’s a step-by-step guide for the most common smartphone brands:

For Huawei shooters

These instructions reference a Huawei P20 Lite; however, the process should be the same on all Huawei models that support RAW photography.

First, open the camera app and scroll through the Mode menu until you reach Pro. Select this mode, and keep in mind that RAW shooting is not available in the other photo modes.

Open your camera Settings menu by tapping on the gear icon (this will be in the upper left corner if you’re shooting in landscape orientation and in the upper right corner if you’re shooting in portrait orientation):

Tap Resolution:

Then scroll to the bottom, where you’ll find the Photo Format section. Enable RAW format:

Then close the settings and snap your photo! As long as you’re in Pro mode, the images will be saved in RAW (plus a JPEG copy).

RAW files are saved in Files > Internal Storage > DCIM > Camera > RAW. You can review them in the gallery under More Albums > Others > RAW.

For iPhone shooters

Not all iPhones support RAW format in the native camera app. If your iPhone doesn’t shoot in RAW, you’ll have to use a third-party app. Look for recommendations at the end of this article.

However, the iPhone 12 Pro and the iPhone 12 Pro Max both support Apple ProRAW (they need to have iOS 14.3 or later, though).

To enable ProRAW, go to Settings > Camera > Formats. Under the Photo Capture section, you can turn on Apple ProRAW.

Once you have enabled this function, you’ll have the RAW option when you’re taking pictures. Simply tap to turn it on or off. (That way, you can shoot in different formats without having to go through the Settings menu every time.)

When you take a photo and RAW is on, it will be saved as a DNG file of about 25 MB. But if you turn ProRAW off, your iPhone will create a JPEG or HEIF file – whichever you have selected as the default.

For Samsung shooters

Keep in mind that not all Samsung devices will support RAW files. However, for the Samsung devices that do support smartphone RAW photography, here’s how to set it up:

Open the camera app and scroll the options bar until you find More.

In the More menu, you can see different modes. Tap on PRO.

Then open Camera Settings and scroll down to Save Options.

Enable Save RAW copies.

Once you’ve done this, all the pictures you take in PRO mode will be saved with a RAW copy – in every other mode, the images will still be JPEGs.

If you want to save a JPEG file when shooting in PRO, you need to go to the Camera Settings and disable the RAW option.

If your Samsung phone doesn’t support RAW files in the native camera app, you can always download another app to do so. You’ll find a list of recommendations at the end of the article.

Apps to shoot in RAW

As I explained above, not all smartphones offer RAW shooting in their native camera app. However, there are plenty of third-party apps that will let you work in RAW. Here’s a list of a few good ones:

Lightroom Mobile (for iOS and Android). The free limited version includes the RAW function, though you will need to create an Adobe account. Of course, if you have an Adobe Lightroom or an Adobe Photography subscription, you already have access to the full version of Lightroom Mobile.

Lightroom mobile shoot in RAW — In Lightroom Mobile, you just have to tap on the top of the screen to open the menu and switch between DNG (RAW) and JPEG.

VSCO (iOS and Android). The RAW function is only for iPhone 6 and later. Older devices and Android phones can use VSCO as a camera and editor but won’t be able to shoot in RAW.

ProShot (iOS and Android). The RAW function works only on compatible phones. To know if your phone supports ProShot RAW, you might want to do some research before purchasing it. The cost is $ 1.99.

ProCam (iOS). Works on iPhones with 12 MP cameras – that’s iPhone 6s and later. It supports RAW files in Auto and Manual mode.

On1Photo RAW (iOS and Android). Free. Supports RAW and JPEG formats in all photo modes.

Flannl RAW camera (iOS). Free.

Manual Camera Lite: Professional Camera DSLR (Android). This free version supports RAW format on some phones. You can upgrade to the PRO version, but it’s not necessary to capture photos in RAW.

Smartphone RAW photography: conclusion

As you can see, it’s very easy to do smartphone RAW photography, no matter your phone type. It may take a few extra taps, but it makes a world of difference!

Now over to you:

Have you tried shooting smartphone RAW photos? Have you noticed a difference compared to your JPEGs? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Digital Photography School

Comments Off

Posted in Photography

How to Use Framing in Your Compositions to Improve Your Photography

05 Nov

The post How to Use Framing in Your Compositions to Improve Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

Photos look great when framed on the wall, but that is not the only way to use frames in photography. The world is full of frames, and they can be used in your photos to make the composition stronger.

In this article, you’ll learn how to find frames. You’ll also learn how you can work with frames to enhance your images. So let’s use framing in your compositions!

a paper frame in the composition — For this photo, traditional Korean paper, called Hanji, was held in front of the camera and used as a frame. The person in the photo is making this traditional paper, so the frame adds context to the image.

What is framing?

Framing, as the name suggests, is when you surround your main subject with a border of some kind.

The frame could literally be a picture frame you hold up in front of the camera. However, there are lots of other ways you can create frames in your compositions. For instance, you can photograph through a window frame, a doorway, or a gap in a wall. And you can always create your own frame, which you’ll learn about in a moment.

Why add a frame?

A frame is used in your image to draw the eye to your main subject. The subject could be a model standing in a doorway or architecture framed through a window.

Plus, a frame can add to your image. The right frame can add context, which creates a further narrative element.

framing in your compositions architecture — Architecture can provide strong framing opportunities for your photos.

Where to find frames

Here’s the next question:

Where can you find a frame that will work for your photo? I’ve already mentioned a few classic ideas, but let’s look at those (and others!) in more detail below:

Doorways: One of the easiest frames to find is a doorway. You can position your main subject in front of the door and use it as a frame. Alternatively, you can photograph through the door and use it as a frame for the background scene.
Picture frames: Hold a frame in front of your camera or ask someone else to hold it for you. Then use this to frame something interesting.
Windows: This is similar to a doorway, but doesn’t run to the ground.
A wall: Here, you need to look for a gap in the wall to use as a frame. This can work well when the foreground (the wall) complements the background behind it.
Lensballs: One of the reasons a lensball is an effective photography tool is because it always provides a natural frame, with the outside of the ball framing the inside.
Photograph through: Look for objects you can photograph through, such as a plant pot or a tube. These will give your photo a circular frame.
Nature: There are plenty of natural frames. A cave entrance or a tree tunnel can work well.

framing in your compositions archway — A wide-angle lens was used to capture the archway in front of this temple, which created a great frame.

How to photograph with a frame

On the face of it, photographing with a frame is easy:

Simply compose a photograph in front of something like an arch or window.

However, you need to consider some key compositional and technical questions. For instance, what’s the subject in the frame? And how large or small should your frame appear?

Focal length: The focal length you choose will depend on how much you want to compress the area surrounding your frame. It will also depend on how far back from your frame you’re able to stand. For instance, when photographing indoors, a wide-angle lens may be needed to fill the photo with the frame of a window or doorway.
Subject: Just because you have a natural frame does not mean you have a good photo, especially if the subject behind it is uninteresting. Look first for your main subject, and then look for available framing options. If you’re taking portrait photos, this will be easier than if you’re photographing a landscape; you can, of course, always ask your model to stand within the frame.
Narrative: What will your frame tell the viewer about the rest of the photo? Is it possible to adapt the frame in some way so it better suits the scene behind it? How much of the area surrounding the frame will you include, and how will that affect the story you’re trying to convey?

framing in your compositions light painting frame — There was no frame for this photo until the light was painted in!

Creative framing in your compositions

When a frame isn’t available, you have another option:

Create your own!

This creative approach to framing in your compositions can lead to the best results. That’s because you’ll have more control over the frame itself. You can control the size and shape of the frame. You’ll also be able to precisely match the frame to the image you are trying to create.

The following are some possible ideas for more creative framing:

Card or paper: Choose the color, cut out the appropriate shape, and make your own custom frame.
Copper piping: Placed close to the lens, this will create a flare-like effect when the sun shines off the metal, and this flare can be used as a frame.
Plant pot: Cut out the bottom of a plant pot and use it to photograph through. A wide focal length will likely be needed to catch the edge of the pot as you photograph through it.

framing in your compositions net — Always look to see how a frame can add more of a story to your photo. In this image, the fishing net is used to frame the fisherman.

Get framing!

Now that you know all about framing in your compositions, it’s time to get out and practice what you’ve learned.

Do you enjoy using frames in the photos you take? Is there another approach you use when looking for frames? Have you ever tried creating your own frame so that it matches the photo you’re taking?

Share your thoughts in the comments! And if you have photos with frames, please share them, too!

The post How to Use Framing in Your Compositions to Improve Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

Digital Photography School

Comments Off

Posted in Photography

Fujifilm to improve X-T3 AF performance with new firmware, bringing it more in line with X-T4

15 Oct

In addition to announcing a camera, lens and more, Fujifilm has also revealed it will soon release a free firmware update for its X-T3 that will improve autofocus performance and more.

The firmware update will go live on October 28, according to Fujifilm’s press release. The improvements should see autofocus speeds more than double, taking focus times drop from 0.06 seconds to 0.02 seconds, bringing the X-T3’s autofocus performance more in line with the X-T4.

Fujifilm says it’s also improved the algorithm for predicting subject movements, which should result in a >90% ‘hit rate.’ The Face Tracking and Eye AF algorithm has also been re-written to double the tracking performance in continuous shooting modes.

Other improvements include the ability to use AF in low light levels down to -7EV with the new Fujinon XF 50mm F1.0 R WR lens, a new ‘Focus Limiter’ feature for setting pre-determined focus ranges, the ability to change the size of Single AF points while recording video and improvements that make it possible for third-party programs to read the ratings applied to pictures in-camera.

We will update this article when the firmware is released.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

Comments Off

Posted in Uncategorized

How Expanding Curiosity and Knowledge in Photography Can Help You Improve

29 Sep

The post How Expanding Curiosity and Knowledge in Photography Can Help You Improve appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Maintaining curiosity and knowledge in photography is key to helping you improve your craft. Having a good grasp of your chosen subject material will keep you inspired and full of fresh ideas.

It’s easy to photograph what you find attractive. When you have a deeper understanding of what you enjoy, looking at your photos will have more depth and meaning.

In this article, we’ll take a look at some of the ways you can develop curiosity and knowledge in photography that will help viewers engage more with your photographs.

Akha woman picking coffee for curiosity and knowledge in photography — Nikon D700 | 24mm |1/60 sec | f/5 | ISO 800 | Manual Mode | Spot Metering

Photograph what you’re passionate about

Start with what’s easy. Photograph what you love. When you do this, you’re already well on your way to creating more intimate photos.

Having feelings for your subject helps you see it differently than when you photograph something that looks nice but that you don’t care about. A snapshot made with feeling can be less technically correct but more engaging.

If you have more of a connection to, and concentration on, your camera, rather than your subject, you run the risk of taking technically-correct but otherwise dull photos. Curiosity and knowledge in photography must reach beyond cameras, lenses, and accessories.

Develop a curiosity for your subject. Learn more about it. You will learn to love what you photograph or you’ll grow indifferent. If you lose interest in your subject, find something else to photograph that captures your imagination.

When your imagination is captured, your photos are more likely to capture the imagination of those who see them.

Akha woman drying coffee for curiosity and knowledge in photography — Nikon D700 | 55mm | 1/125 sec | f/7.1 | ISO 320 | Manual Mode | Pattern Metering

Take time to learn

Learning about a topic is easier than ever these days. We have millions of web pages, Youtube videos, forums, and podcasts online. These will teach you anything you desire to learn.

Then there are books, galleries, movies, and all manner of other visually stimulating ways to learn more about your favorite subject.

Open your imagination and you can learn anything you like. Combining your love of photography with becoming an expert on what you enjoy taking pictures of helps you improve.

With a more advanced understanding of the nuances of your subject, you’ll take more intimate, engaging photos of it. If you lack understanding, you’re more likely to miss seeing the subtle aspects that will make your pictures pop.

Even if you’ve been photographing the same subject for many years, I’m sure there’s something else you can learn about it. If you’re not sure that there is, start teaching someone. Once you start teaching about any subject you’re interested in, you’ll soon discover how much more you want to know about it.

Laptop and coffee for curiosity and knowledge in photography — Nikon D800 | 105mm | 1/125 sec | f/4 | ISO 640 | Manual Mode | Spot Metering

Commit time and effort to develop your knowledge

Studying a subject until you’re an expert takes commitment. The best photographers know this by experience.

Look at portfolios of any truly successful photographers (not ones who’ve merely acquired large social media followings), and you’ll see what I mean. Their work displays the intimate connection that they have with their subjects.

This takes time and commitment to build. It does not happen quickly or frivolously.

For example, if you love the architecture of the city you live in and photograph it often, take some time to learn more about it. Study its history. Who designed it? Why does it have character? How has it evolved over time? Once you understand the answers to these and other questions, you’ll start to look at your neighborhood in a new light.

Use the internet. Visit your local library. Search out the work of other photographers who have a similar interest. Google is a great source of images. Type in any location and you’ll find others have photographed it and shared their images.

Find well-known photographers whose style and subject material you appreciate. Study how they compose their pictures. When do they take them? Look at the type of light that’s predominant in many of their photos.

You can research any subject you can think of. Taking time to do so on a regular basis will help you become a better photographer. You don’t always have to be out and about with your camera to learn to take better photos.

Taking photos frequently certainly does help you build camera skills, but photography is more than just about using your camera.

Roasting coffee — Nikon D200 | 18mm | 1/4 sec | f/8 | ISO 200 | Manual Mode | Pattern Metering

Maintain your curiosity and knowledge in photography

No matter how long or how often you’ve photographed a particular subject, it’s best to maintain a curiosity for it.

Explore new ways to photograph the same subject over and over. This should be a healthy challenge. If you find it repeatedly becoming a bit of a drag, consider starting to photograph something different.

The more curiosity you maintain, the more interesting your photos will be to others. Once you’ve covered all the more traditional approaches to taking pictures of a particular subject, a healthy curiosity will lead you further. Your creative journey can really come alive.

Push yourself out of your comfort zone. Think of ways to make new, fresh pictures that you normally would not take. Looking at the work of other photographers is one of the best ways to discover how you can do this.

Photograph your subject in light you normally wouldn’t use. If you typically work with a long lens, use a wide-angle lens next time. Explore alternative angles and different ways of seeing the same thing. You might surprise yourself with the results.

Be prolific. The more time you spend learning about your subject, the more you’ll want to get out and take photos of it. Frequently using your camera helps you remain immersed. This is also how to maintain healthy levels of inspiration.

coffee cups — Nikon D200 | 50mm | 1/8 sec | f/16 | ISO 400 | Manual Mode | Pattern Metering

Conclusion

Start with what you love. This makes learning easy and fun. Becoming immersed in a subject you are halfhearted about can lead to discouragement. Whatever subjects you photograph should be a pleasure to study and become an expert about.

Curiosity and knowledge in photography will improve the level of engagement viewers have with your art. Taking a serious approach to learning more and developing a more informed appreciation of your subject will elevate your photography experience.

The post How Expanding Curiosity and Knowledge in Photography Can Help You Improve appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

Digital Photography School

Comments Off

Posted in Photography

DPReview TV: Do the Panasonic S5’s updated subject recognition and DFD improve autofocus in video?

04 Sep

The Panasonic S5 includes important upgrades to its autofocus system, but how much do those improvements extend to video? We put it to the test, shooting side-by-side against the S1H, to find out.

Subscribe to our YouTube channel to get new episodes of DPReview TV every week.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

Comments Off

Posted in Uncategorized