Meet the Fujifilm X-S10 – a camera the company is calling a cross between an X-T30 and its older X-H1. That basically means that here we have a compact camera with the best APS-C size sensor Fujifilm has to offer (from the X-T30 / X-T4) but with a really nice, sizable grip and in-body stabilization inspired by the X-H1.
In the time we’ve had the X-S10, we have to admit we’re impressed. We think it offers a lot of bang for the buck, and its simplified control scheme will appeal to a lot of users, including those upgrading from older DSLR cameras in particular.
Sensor, performance, and look at that grip
The X-S10 comes with the same 26MP X-Trans sensor we’ve seen in a handful of Fujifilm’s other cameras, and that’s a good thing. It offers excellent noise performance and very fast readout speeds, which help boost autofocus performance and video capability. Based on our preliminary testing, we’d expect autofocus performance to be essentially on par with the X-T30 / X-T3 / X-T4 cameras, which is to say, darn good.
Video specs are solid too: You can record up to 4K/30p, 8-bit files internally. If you use an external recorder, you can boost that to 10-bit 4:2:2 files, which is handy for people who want to do some post-production work on their clips.
Burst speeds are great for a camera of this class. You can shoot at up to 8 fps with the mechanical shutter, and up to 20 fps with the electronic shutter (and a further 30 fps with a 1.25x crop). Unfortunately, we don’t yet know the buffer depth of the X-S10 (how long you can shoot bursts before the camera slows down), but we’ll be testing this when we get a final review sample.
And lastly, check out that grip! It’s generous and comfortable, and makes handling the X-S10 a breeze with lenses big and small. But although the X-S10 feels incredibly solid in your hand, it doesn’t come with any claims of weather-sealing.
New stabilizer
The X-S10 is equipped with an all-new, compact stabilizer unit built specifically to fit inside the camera’s smaller body. It tops out at 6 stops of shake reduction with stabilized lenses, and varies from 5 to 5.5 stops with unstabilized lenses.
Those figures mean that with a 50mm-equivalent lens, you should be able to handhold images with a reasonable degree of success at shutter speeds of 0.6 seconds or even slower.
Control scheme
But where the X-S10 really stands out – among Fujifilm cameras, at least – is right here. Most Fujifilm cameras are covered in ISO, shutter speed and exposure compensation dials, but not this one. This one uses a mode dial, customizable control dials under your forefinger and thumb, and a third customizable dial on the left shoulder of the camera.
While manipulating those manual dials on other cameras could get you into a ‘program auto’ mode, on the X-S10, that’s made much easier by just rotating the mode dial to ‘P’. Fujifilm is banking on appealing to a different subset of users with the X-S10; a group that either sees no need for dedicated dials for exposure parameters, or those coming from other cameras with this style of control scheme, which is basically ubiquitous among entry-level and mid-level DSLRs.
Fujifilm has also said that the full Auto mode has been tweaked to give users a bit more control over autofocus and image quality parameters while also automatically choosing a film simulation mode depending on the scene. Lastly, it’s worth noting that the X-S10 has a built-in pop-up flash which you trigger with the small switch on the far left, and the top plate is also where you’ll find customizable ISO and movie record buttons. The ‘Q’ button brings up the camera’s customizable Quick Menu on the rear screen or in the viewfinder.
Control scheme
The rear of the camera is fairly spartan. You get a customizable drive-mode button on the top left, a customizable button just to the right of the EVF, the requisite Playback, Display / Back, Menu / OK and AEL and AF-ON buttons as well as an AF joystick. We actually find that, overall, we prefer the control scheme on the X-S10 to, say, the X-T30; we collectively thought the X-T30 was a bit cramped, and we’d knock the joystick by accident all the time. On the X-S10, there’s plenty of room for your grip hand and the joystick is perfectly placed.
The rear screen is touch sensitive, and as you can see, is a side-hinged design, which may appeal to video shooters more than a simple tilting design. At the top of the camera is a fairly middle-of-the-road 2.36M-dot EVF, which does at least offer a great refresh rate and good contrast.
Ports
Along the side of the X-S10, we see a 3.5mm microphone port as well as USB-C and micro-HDMI ports. The USB-C port can be used for data transfer, it can charge the battery or you can also attach an included dongle adapter to plug in a pair of headphones for audio monitoring while shooting video. However, based on your usage, it’s worth being aware of the fact that the positioning of the ports may get in the way of the fully articulating screen.
Battery and storage
Power for the X-S10 comes from the standard Fujifilm NP-W126S battery pack, found in a number of its other cameras. Battery life is rated by CIPA for 325 shots if you’re primarily using the rear LCD, but we’d expect far more than that in normal use, especially if you watch your Wi-Fi use and keep the pop-up flash popped down.
One small disappointment is that the single SD card slot is only UHS-I compatible, so you won’t gain any speed benefit from UHS-II cards. It’s not a huge deal on a camera at this level, but considering how fast the X-S10 can shoot burst images, it would have been nice to see the faster slot included.
Hands-on with the Fujifilm X-S10
And that concludes our short tour of the Fujifilm X-S10. While it may not be a revolutionary camera, it looks like a really well-rounded model at a good price, and one that may tempt new users into the Fujifilm ecosystem.
What do you make of the Fujifilm X-S10? Let us know in the comments.
The post Tips for Using Photographic Minimalism to Great Effect appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
In today’s article, you’ll learn a key tip for improving your photography. After all, when you understand that photography is the art of subtraction, it makes sense that minimalism works so well for photography.
This means that employing photographic minimalism in your work will immediately improve your results. Let’s take a look at what minimalism is, where you’ll find it, and how to use it in your own photos.
What is minimalism?
Minimalism, as the name suggests, is about keeping things simple. It means avoiding clutter, which in photography equates to removing unwanted elements from your photos.
You do want a main subject, though; this is needed for the minimalist parts of your photos to have something to contrast with.
Key elements of photographic minimalism
The great thing about minimalism is that it can be applied to almost every genre of photography, including portrait, landscape, and still life. The only area where minimalism doesn’t always work well is street photography, where you often want to show more of the scene.
Therefore, the key aspects of photographic minimalism are the following:
Negative space: This refers to an area of empty space in your photo. The negative space still needs to work compositionally, but that space is what will give your photo its minimalism.
Small main subject: The main subject should not fill the frame. It needs to be present, but have enough space around it for the photo to breathe.
Avoid clutter: When you compose a photo, do so in such a way that you include the main subject and the background with little else.
The best location for photographic minimalism
It’s possible to produce photographic minimalism in almost any location.
The important factors are the angle you photograph at and the focal length of your lens. Here are a few possible ideas you can use:
Minimal locations: Places like coastlines and deserts offer minimalism pretty much wherever you point the camera.
Urban settings: Look for a plain wall and use this as a background for a minimalist portrait.
A shard of light: Go for low-key minimalism by locating a shard of sunlight, or by putting a snoot on a flash and aiming it at a person. Then expose for the light on that person, while leaving the background underexposed and dark.
Product photos: Use a lightbox to produce high-key product photos that are surrounded by white (or by the background color that you choose).
Which lens works best?
The lens that works best for minimalism will depend a lot on the location you’re photographing. It may be hard to produce minimalism with a wide-angle lens in an urban setting, but take the same lens to a desert and it’ll do a great job. The following is a guide to help you choose the correct lens:
Wide-angle: Use a wide-angle lens in a location where you can fill the frame with one particular background. That background will often be the sky, but could equally be rolling green hills. This works best in rural areas.
Telephoto: It’s easier to produce minimalism when you use a telephoto lens. This is because you can zoom in on a specific area to avoid elements that clutter the frame. When using a long focal length, ensure there is enough negative space around your main subject.
Change the angle
A simple change of angle can have a big impact on your photos and help you produce photographic minimalism. Stepping to the side or crouching down to the ground can be all it takes to remove a distracting element from your composition.
Here are some options that will turn a cluttered scene into a minimalist one:
A bird’s-eye view: This works best where you have fields or a coastline, so the location is already minimalist.
Crouching below a wall: Use a wall as the horizon line and aim up towards the sky. The wall blocks out the usually busy horizon, and you can add a person as a silhouette against the sky.
Compression: I already talked about this in the section about lenses and focal length, but zooming in to remove distracting elements from the edge of the frame works well.
Move to the side: A single step can be all it takes to change the background from cluttered to minimal.
Post processing can help
Now, it’s best to get your photo right from the start and simply change your position so that you can compose a minimalist photo.
That said, there are times that creating a minimalist composition in-camera isn’t possible, yet the photo is still very much there to be taken. There could be a lamppost or an electric pylon that comes into your frame.
Fortunately, it’s increasingly easy to clone out unwanted elements from your photo. And once you’ve done that, you’ll have created minimalism.
Maximize your photos with minimalism!
A lot of successful photos use minimalism to great effect. Are you a minimalist with your photography? If so, how do you go about taking photos in the minimalistic style? If you have ideas and photos you’d like to share, please do so in the comments section below.
Now it’s time to maximize your creativity with photographic minimalism!
The post Tips for Using Photographic Minimalism to Great Effect appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
The Canon EOS R6 is a 20MP full-frame mirrorless camera aimed at enthusiast photographers and videographers. It sits below the R5 much as the EOS 6Ds did beneath the 5D DSLRs, and offers a well-rounded combination of features for both disciplines.
It’s also one of the first enthusiast-level cameras to shoot both stills and video that can exploit the capabilities of the latest high-dynamic range displays. However its tendency to hit its temperature limits take the edge off its video capabilities.
Key specifications:
20MP Dual Pixel CMOS Sensor
In-body stabilization rated at up to 8EV of correction
Dual Pixel AF II with AI-trained subject tracking and 100% AF coverage
20 fps shooting with e-shutter, 12 fps mechanical
UHD 4K shooting at up to 60p, 1080 at up to 120p
10-bit 4:2:2 internal recording in either C-Log or HDR PQ
10-bit HDR photos in HEIF format
3.68M dot EVF
1.62M dot fully-articulated rear touchscreen
New battery rated at around 380 shots per charge (EVF)
The R6 is available with a recommended price of $ 2499, body-only. It can also be bought in a kit with the 24-105mm F4L for around $ 3599 or with the 24-105mm F4-7.1 STM IS for approximately $ 2899.
What’s new and how it compares
The EOS R6 can’t boast 8K video but it’s got a solid feature set nonetheless, including the same IS and AF as its big brother.
Read more
Body, controls and handling
The R6 has elements of the original EOS R to its design but it also gains a fair amount from Canon’s DSLR range. We think the combination works nicely.
Read more
Initial impressions
We’ve been shooting with the EOS R6 and think Canon users (and, in particular, Canon DSLR users) will find a lot to like about the camera.
Read more
Image Quality
The 20MP sensor, combined with Canon’s JPEG color does a great job, despite having fewer pixels than its peers.
Read more
Dynamic Range
The EOS R6’s files prove very flexible, but that performance is aided by noise reduction you can’t turn off.
Read more
Autofocus
The EOS R6 offers at least the performance that the EOS-1D X III does in live view mode. It’s powerful, customizable yet often very easy-to-use.
Read more
Video
The EOS R6 can shoot some very attractive 4K footage, but despite a well thought-out interface, its propensity for hitting its thermal cut-off means it’s not as good a stills/video hybrid as the specs make out.
Read more
Conclusion
The EOS R6 has a lot going for it: it offers excellent image quality, shoots at high speeds and includes impressive image stabilization. It’s not the best stills-and-video option but it’s a superb photographer’s camera.
Read more
Sample gallery
We’ve put together a gallery from the EOS R6, to show what its image quality looks like.
The post Great Android Apps for Adding Glitch Effects to Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
In digital photography, glitches are usually avoided at all costs. However, there are some who welcome the whimsical aesthetic of glitch art. Here are four of the best Android apps that can be used to add artificial glitch effects to your images.
What is glitch art?
Generally, the word glitch refers to a visual or audio malfunction occurring in a media format.
Music, video games, and digital photography; all technology can succumb to glitches. While often viewed as an unwelcome occurrence, glitches have, over time, garnered a growing amount of creative interest. That’s where glitch art comes in.
Glitch art is created by artists who embrace the nature of the glitch for its aesthetic and audible qualities. By either intentionally creating glitches or capturing them as they occur organically, artists elevate the status of the glitch from a technical irritation to an intriguing insight into the technology we surround ourselves with.
One of the earliest examples of glitch art was orchestrated by the art collective JODI. Founded by Joan Heemskert and Dirk Paesmans, JODI operated on experiments like deliberately causing errors on their website to evoke error messages. From there, artists have adopted the glitch aesthetic as a means of conveying ideas and exploring the technological landscape.
How is glitch art made?
Glitch art can be achieved in various ways.
For example, misalignment glitches are the result of a digital file being opened by a program that is ill-equipped to process that specific type of file.
Hardware failure glitches, on the other hand, are caused by tampering with the physical mechanisms of a machine itself.
Databending refers to the manipulation of file data with programs like hex editors.
The appreciation for glitch art has spread across the globe, with many glitch artists sharing their broad range of technical approaches to the format online. And with the growing number of glitch art apps available at little or no cost to the user, glitch effects have been an increasingly popular presence in art and social media.
Now let’s take a look at the best Android apps for creating glitch effects:
Glitch Lab
Glitch Lab operates on the central theme of being “simple to use yet at the same time endlessly configurable.” With an impressive amount of free presents and adjustments available to induce glitched imagery, all alterations can be tweaked with an easy-to-use interface, creating rich layers of visual chaos.
In addition, Glitch Lab offers some basic photo adjustments as well as a Generate function, which allows a user to generate glitch art from scratch, without the use of a photo as a starting point.
Glitch!
Simple to use and with a good amount of free features, Glitch! is one of the most popular glitch art apps available. With glitch effects like Scanner, Hacker, and Paintbrush, Glitch! realistically imitates manual glitching techniques. Premium functions include a Datamosh preset and video-based options.
Glitcho
The Glitcho app allows a user to glitch photos and videos in real-time, which can be handy for quick adjustments and previews. The app also offers a GIF-generating function, which animates some glitch effects applied to images.
Glitcho has a range of free glitch presets that can be applied to both photos and videos. The app also offers additional glitch effects that can be unlocked by watching ads or by upgrading to Glitcho Pro.
EZGlitch
Like Glitcho, EZGlitch provides glitch effects to create glitched photography and videography in real-time. The in-app purchases available in EZGlitch are balanced by the range of filters on offer at no charge to the user.
EZGlitch is also equipped with a simple-to-use Auto GIF function to generate animated glitchy GIF or MP4 files to save and share.
Conclusion
If you’ve recently looked for glitch-based editing apps on the Play Store, you’ll have seen a myriad of different options on offer.
While it may take some trial and error to find the glitch app that works best for you, these four apps are a great entry point, allowing for quick and easy glitch effects on your Android device.
The post Great Android Apps for Adding Glitch Effects to Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.
The post How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.
When you learn to do portraits with window light you can set up a studio anywhere there is a window.
In this tutorial, I’ll give you all the important information, including what to do with different window sizes, where to position the person, and how to make their eyes sparkle.
You’ll see examples of newborns/infants, children, professional headshots, and candid moments.
The bigger the window, the nicer the light
The first thing that you should know about making portraits with window light is that the bigger the window, the nicer the light. What each photographer considers to be “good” light is relative. But many photographers want soft light for portraits.
If you would like soft light for your portraits, then you need a large window. If you want harsh light, look for a smaller window.
This principle is true for all light sources; the larger the light source, the softer the light will appear on your subject.
Remember that small windows are more likely to create harsh looking light with dark, crisp shadows, while larger windows will produce softer-looking light with gradual, subtle shadows.
A larger window will also create more sparkle in the eyes (you’ll learn how to do that below).
Where to position the person
Now you know how to get soft light or harsh light for your portraits.
The next thing you need to know is where to position the person for the portrait.
If you have beautiful soft light, but you position the person wrong, then the light won’t look pleasing on the person’s face.
Portrait lighting usually looks best when the light source is in front of the person, but off to the side. It also helps if the light source is a little higher up.
Do not sit them in direct sunlight
If there is direct sunlight coming in the window, make sure that you do not sit your subject in the direct sunlight. If you do, the window will no longer be the true light source; rather, the harsh sunlight will now be the light source.
How to make their eyes sparkle
The sparkle in the eye that you see in portraits is called a catchlight. You create catchlights by making sure that the window is reflected in your subject’s eyes.
When doing portraits with window light, be sure to bring your portrait to life with catchlights.
How to get rid of unwanted shadows
It can be hard to take a portrait using a window and have no shadows on the face. But you can fill in those shadows or make them disappear using a reflector. Remember, you can use any large white surface as a reflector.
Window light for headshots
At this point, you understand that large windows create soft light, you can use a reflector to fill in shadows, and that catchlights create a sparkle in the eye. You’re on your way to having a pro studio set up in your living room!
Here is a setup that you can use for headshot portraits with window light.
The same principles apply; a large window will make softer light, set your subject beside and behind the window a bit.
Notice the soft light and nice catchlights. A reflector was used for this portrait.
No reflector was used for this portrait.
Window light in everyday life
Now that you know the principles, you can use window light with candid photography as well.
Remember that it is often good to have the light source coming from the side. However, you can experiment by putting the window behind your subject to make creative silhouettes. You can also get creative by allowing direct sunlight to fall on your subject.
Did you know your home was filled with such great light sources?
Studio strobe lights are wonderful to use, but they’re not always affordable or practical to drag around.
Once you know the principles, you can use windows just as effectively and creatively as strobe lights.
Remember these principles when making portraits with window light:
Larger windows create softer light
Smaller windows create harsh shadows
Do not sit your subject in direct sunlight
Have the window to the side and in front of your subject
Use a reflector to fill in shadows
Catchlights create a sparkle in the eyes
Use a backdrop for professional portraits
Get creative with backlight and candid moments
One of the best ways to get started is to use a toy as a model. Go and have some fun with this and share your results with us in the comments!
The post How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.
The post Great Photoshop Tools to Edit Backgrounds in Images for Online Use appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.
Are you moving your business online? You’re probably noticing the huge amount of possibilities? From blogs to Instagram; from banners to thumbnails – you need to keep editing your images to fit your every need. Fortunately, there are some Photoshop tools to edit backgrounds that come to the rescue. Keep reading to learn how to solve some of the most common issues about backgrounds.
Are your white backgrounds really white?
Photoshop tools to edit white backgrounds
There are a number of Photoshop tools to edit white backgrounds, so let’s break them down.
Curves
A white background shot seems simple, but it ‘s not so easy to achieve. You can always cut out the subject and replace the backdrop, but this can be very time-consuming even if you did it right in the photo-shoot. You still need to do some editing, and one of the best Photoshop tools to edit a backgrounds’ brightness is Curves.
When a white background image is placed on top of a digital background you can see if it was really white.
Often, despite your best efforts, your seemingly white background is not 100% white. Look at the example above. On the left, you can see the result of the photo-shoot, which appears to be okay. But, if I add a white background layer, you can see it’s not. Notice how you can see the difference in the corners. To easily fix this, you have to add a Curves Adjustment Layer.
To add a Curves adjustment, click on the Adjustments icon at the bottom of the Layer palette, denoted by a circle with black and white halves.
Then, lighten your image by dragging the top part of the curve. Keep going until the transition between your photo and the digital background is not visible. Don’t worry if your subject is getting too light, you’ll fix that in the next step.
Now, grab the Brush tool, and with a soft brush at 10 or 15% flow, start painting black over your subject. This will mask out the adjustments from the curve to keep the original exposure on the subject, including its shadows.
Photoshop tools to extend backgrounds
There will be times when you also need to extend your image backgrounds. Here are some tools to help you do that.
Clone Stamp
The Clone Stamp is one of the most useful Photoshop tools to edit backgrounds. Being able to clone one part of the image to another, helps you to retouch almost anything.
You can correct any specks, dust, or scratches in your image.
I want to show you another situation where it can come in handy too. Imagine you need to extend your background to gain some negative space. You can clone your background to cover a bigger area. First, enlarge your document by going to Menu->Image->Canvas Size and set up the new size.
For this example, I was turning a thumbnail into a header.
Grab the Clone Stamp and take a sample from the background to start cloning. If you are working on a separate layer, make sure to set Current and Below in the options bar. If you’re working on the same layer, use “Current Layer.”
Keep going by sampling from different areas each time, that way, it’s less noticeable, and you’ll get a better result. If the area is too big for this, then the Pattern Stamp tool will be more efficient.
Pattern Stamp
First, use the Rectangular Marquee tool to select a sample of the background. Then go to Menu->Edit->Define Pattern. This will open a pop-up window where you can name and save this background as a pattern.
Pick the Pattern Stamp tool that you’ll find under the Clone Stamp. On the options bar, you can open the pattern menu and choose the one you just created.
Now you just have to paint all the space you want to fill. You can adjust the size of the brush, the hardness, and flow for better results.
If the separation between stamps is noticeable, then go back to the clone stamp tool and smooth out the junctions.
Photoshop healing tools for backgrounds
Similar to the Clone Stamp is the Healing Brush, which has two variations. Unlike the clone, both of them will blend the new pixels with the existing ones. As a result, the correction is much smoother. Let’s see the difference between them.
Spot Healing Brush
The Spot Healing Brush will automatically sample the pixels it thinks are best to use as a source. It will take the texture and reproduce it while blending the color and luminosity with the pixels in the new spot.
This is really useful when you’re working on large empty areas, like textures. In most cases, I find it’s very unpredictable, and it includes pieces that don’t belong, so I don’t use it often. However, it’s a matter of finding what works best in each situation.
I wanted to extend the background. Notice how it included the texture from the subject.
If you cancel the action by going back on your history or using the command Ctrl+Z and try again, it will give you a different result. It works better when you use a small brush and tackle small areas at a time.
If you want to cover a big space, you’ll be better off using the Healing Brush Tool.
Healing Brush
This tool is a mix between the Spot Healing Brush and the Clone Stamp. You can manually choose where to sample by clicking on the spot while holding the Alt key. Then click on the area you want to ‘heal’ and it will blend the source pixels with the current ones. This way the result will be much more uniform. Make sure that “Sampled” is marked as the Source in the Options bar.
You can use this tool to extend your background or to retouch any details on it. It’s very versatile, so try it out.
Conclusion
Your background can complement, enhance, or distract from the subject, so it’s just as important and you want to give it enough attention. Whether it’s a blemish or an extension, these Photoshop tools to edit backgrounds can help you out for most of your online needs.
What is your favorite tool? Share it in the comments section!
The post Great Photoshop Tools to Edit Backgrounds in Images for Online Use appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.
The post Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
Before there was photography, artists used paints and brushes to record their visions onto a canvas. Fruit and vegetable still life images were common subjects for many. Even today, in art schools, a fruit bowl might be an early subject. Learning to reproduce shapes, tones, color, and replicating the way light, shadow, smooth reflective objects, and dull matte objects look in the light – all those things would be part of your training.
We, as photographers, would do well to take a similar approach to our photography. We have it easier in many ways; not needing paints and brushes to create our images on a blank canvas. However, learning about light, composition, and technique are still foundational lessons.
If you are stuck at home, this could be a good opportunity to slow down, work on the kitchen table, relax with a slow-paced style of photography, and learn some new photography skills. A fruit and vegetable still life project could be just the way to spend a quiet day at home.
Putting these kiwi slices on an inverted glass pie plate, and then putting an LED flashlight under the plate, so the light shone through them, was the key to making this photo.
Subject selection
There are several reasons why fruits and vegetables make good still life subjects. They have interesting shapes, textures, colors, and details. As they are food, we can work to make them look especially appetizing, selecting the freshest and best subjects to be our “models.”
People who specialize in food photography will often use the talents of “food stylists” who carefully pick just the right subjects. They then use tricks, much like a fashion makeup stylist would use, to make their “models” as flawless and stunning as possible.
If you have access to choice fruits and vegetables right now, by all means, go seek such subjects. On the other hand, if being restricted to home means you need to use that somewhat sad-looking collection of carrots from the bottom of the refrigerator, just take your photo in a different direction.
If all you have is some sad looking carrots from the bottom of the refrigerator, go with what you have. Note the “wood backgrounds” here are actually printed sheets from a craft store.
Types and styles
In the early-to-mid 1600s, the Netherlands saw the rise of a collection of artists we now refer to as the “Dutch Masters.” A realistic style, emphasis on dramatic directional lighting, and the play of light and shadow are earmarks of the look. A good example of a Dutch Golden Age still-life artist is Willem Kalf. See his image below, “Still Life with Lemon Peel.” Now, as a photographer, how might we emulate that look?
Still Life with a Peeled Lemon – Willem Kalf (Dutch, 1619 – 1693) 1664 Oil on canvas * Rose-Marie and Eijk van Otterloo Collection * Courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
A favorite technique of mine for emulating the Dutch Master’s look is light painting. I discuss this at length in my DPS article, “Learn these Two Techniques for Dramatic Light-Painted Photos.”
A distinct advantage of still life photography is that shutter speed is not critical. If you need a multi-second exposure, no problem. Work from a tripod so your camera is rock-steady, lock up the mirror on a DSLR to minimize vibrations, and use a cable release or perhaps the 2-second timer to trip the shutter. Go to full-manual mode. Keep your ISO at the lowest setting to minimize noise. Select an aperture based on how much depth of field you seek, and select a shutter speed for however much time you need for the “painting.”
Grab your flashlight and paint away.
Seeking to emulate the style of the Dutch Master’s paintings, I made this light-painted shot using just the illumination of a small flashlight and a 10-second exposure.
A favorite photographer I follow now on Instagram is Carlo Denino. Often with just a single fruit, vegetable, or other subjects, he produces exquisite light paintings. I encourage you to give his images a look and see if you can then emulate his style. I know from personal experience it’s not nearly as easy as it might look!
Lighting
Light Painting
Light painting is just one way you can go when doing fruit and vegetable still life images. Natural lighting can often be great and will require nothing more than your camera.
Dutch Master’s images were typically painted to look like they were illuminated by a single light source off to the side.
Find a window where you can place your subject and see if you can create the look. If you need a little fill to reduce the shadows, a simple reflector or even a white card can do the trick.
Always keep an eye out for photo subjects. Both of these were done outside when I just happened across the scenes. The shot on the left was done with my LG V30 cellphone. The one on the right, when I happened to have my camera one day on a neighborhood walk.
Non-conventional lights
Explore how other lights that would be considered non-conventional for photography, such as LED-flashlights, can work. Yes, they will not usually be as bright as standard photo lighting, and their color temperatures can vary. But they do have the advantages of being cheap, small and portable, and perhaps something you already have on hand. Use long exposures to compensate for their lower light output, and when you shoot in Raw mode, finding a good white balance will be much easier.
When working close to small subjects, an LED flashlight might be all the light you need, especially when with still-life, your shutter speed can be as long as you want.
Flash
Speedlights can be another option. You will typically not want your light to come from the front of your subject, so your pop-up flash or hot-shoe-mounted Speedlight isn’t the best way to go. If you can, get the flash off the camera and fire it with a remote trigger. Or perhaps use a flash cord to get it away from the camera. If not, try bouncing the light off the ceiling, a wall or a reflector to redirect the light and soften it.
Bright sunlight and a shutter speed of 1/3200 second was the trick to freezing the motion of these shots. Splash photography with fruits and vegetables is a great combination creating a “freshness” look.
Tricks with conventional photo lighting
If you have dedicated photography lighting, that’s great. Give it a try and perhaps use your fruit and vegetable still life subjects to explore some new lighting techniques. Try different ways to modify the light with snoots, reflectors, flags, diffusion, gobos, colored gels, or whatever else you can think of.
Unrestricted by time or pressure to get it right quickly will open you up to experiments you might have never tried. If you fail twenty times but come up with a new and exciting technique just once, you can consider your experimental lighting play a great success.
Lighting direction
With their interesting colors and sometimes translucent nature, fruits and vegetables can lend themselves to some interesting lighting techniques. Rarely will you want to light from the front of the subject as this will produce rather flat and uninteresting light.
Instead, try side lighting to emphasize texture, backlighting to perhaps create some nice rim-lighting, or if you want to get some really creative looks, lighting through your subject.
Fruits and vegetables that can be sliced thin work great for this. For example, I made thin slices of a kiwi, then made a platform from a glass pie plate under which I placed an LED flashlight. The light shining up and through the slices really emphasized the color and detail. Citrus fruits work well for this technique too.
Experiment and see what you can create.
Citrus fruits sliced thin make great subjects for backlighting as the colors and textures are so interesting. We also expect to see them in drinks and scenes like this.
Backgrounds
As with any other photo subject, carefully consider the background when you stage your fruit and vegetable still life image. You will want a background that complements and doesn’t interfere with your subject.
Quite often, the best background will be the simplest. Consider using a completely white or black background if that works for the image you’re trying to create. Lightroom makes it very easy to blow out whites or totally blackout shadows with the adjustment brush aided by other tools like the clipping indicators and Auto and Range Mask. Paint out what you don’t want to keep the focus on your subject.
The fruit here is more the “supporting cast” in this shot of a raspberry lemonade cupcake. However, all the elements of this shot were carefully chosen. The background is a piece of scrapbooking paper from the craft store.
Of course, the other option you always have with photography is blurring, and thus simplifying, your background with a limited depth of field.
If you are a new photographer just trying to get your head around how depth of field works, the slow and deliberate nature of making fruit and vegetable still life images is a great way to experiment and understand the relationships of apertures, focal lengths, and their effects on depth of field.
Spritz things up
A favorite trick of food photographers looking to make their fruit and vegetable still life images look fresh and also add interest is to use a spray bottle to spritz their subjects with water. Sometimes to create larger droplets that hang better and last longer on the subject, they will add a bit of glycerine to the water.
Macro
The structure of living things is often fascinating, and being able to explore fruits and vegetables up close can reveal some really interesting things. Whether you use a dedicated macro lens, extension tubes, bellows, close-up filters, a reversed lens, or a combination of these, macro work is just the thing to divert your attention from your troubles while you focus on the unseen world.
Working inside in a controlled environment with no wind and complete control of the lighting will also help you learn macro techniques.
Get close and explore the detail with a macro shot. Often my LG V30 cellphone rivals even my dedicated DSLR macro lens.
Tell a story
When making fruit and vegetable still life images, it can enhance your photo if you add other objects to help “tell a story” about your scene. Rather than simply take a photo of an apple, slice the apple, add a cutting board and a knife to invite the viewer to consider what might have been going on. Add props that enhance the theme and avoid those that distract. Consider what makes sense in that particular scene and things you would naturally find paired together.
Add other items to your fruit and vegetable still life images to help tell a story.
High and low key
Fruit and vegetable still life photography can sometimes lend itself to high and low key renditions. To briefly define the terms, high-key is a lighting and exposure style that is very bright and contains little or no shadow. Contrast ratios, that being the difference between the lightest and darkest tones, are minimized. High-key photos will often have an “ethereal” look to them.
Two high-key images done very differently. The raspberry shot used a fast 1/1000 second shutter speed, the onion a slow 1/13 second shutter speed.
Low-key images are the opposite and typically quite dark, often with shadows that are totally black. They will often be quite contrasty with few mid-tones. Sometimes a low-key shot will use highlights in certain places to emphasize shape and form. Back and rim-lighting can lend itself well to a low-key look.
Here’s an exercise to try; take a fruit or vegetable, compose your shot, and make a “normal” exposure. Then, without moving the camera or subject, change the lighting and exposure to give it a high-key look. Now change the lighting and exposure again and see if you can get a low key look. This is a fun way to explore lighting techniques and understand the dramatic difference lighting can have on a scene.
Still life that moves
We call it “still” life because, most often, the subject doesn’t move during the exposure and is static. But need it be that way?
Fruits and vegetables can make great subjects for some dynamic images. In my article “Making the Shot: Your Guide to Creating Stunning High-Speed Splash Photos Without Flash,” I show some fun ways to make some really exciting images. You’ll note that almost all of my subjects were fruits and vegetables.
Still-life doesn’t have to be still. The short duration flash of a Speedlight froze the action in these shots.
There’s also this image from my “How to Use Multi-flash to Capture Compelling Action Photos” article. The orange pepper stood out nicely on a dark background and allowed me to make the stroboscopic image as it flew through the air.
Mom may have told you not to play with your food, but here, it’s entirely appropriate and a whole lot of fun.
Mom might have told you not to play with your food, but for photographic purposes, you have my permission to go crazy.
Conclusion
Many of you may be homebound and looking for creative ways to keep up your photography practice. Making fruit and vegetable still life images has some advantages;
It uses subjects you may already have at home.
It lends itself to a variety of different lighting techniques.
Macro photography is a possibility.
You can explore all kinds of new techniques.
If you get some really good shots you may be able to sell them as stock images.
After you’re done, you can eat your subjects!
Get back to your roots. A shot one day when visiting a farmer’s market.
Have fun with your fruit and vegetable still life photography, and post some of your great shots in the comments below.
If you’d like feedback, critique, and have a question about how to do something better, post that too. I try to answer all comments and look forward to hearing from you. Best wishes and be well!
The post Great Fruit and Vegetable Still Life Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
The Olympus mju-II, also known as the Stylus Epic, is a cult favorite film point-and-shoot that’s been increasing in both popularity and price over the past 10 years. A relic of the late 1990’s it offers a sharp 35mm F2.8 lens, excellent metering and accurate autofocus, all in a highly-pocketable, weather-sealed package. Sounds pretty appealing, eh?
Sadly, the days of purchasing one these for bargain prices are long gone. What may have set you back $ 40 in 2013 will likely cost you 5x that much today, for a plastic camera that’s now 7-years-more degraded. So are these little wonders still worth acquiring? 35mmc’s Hamish Gill has the answers…
Read: Olympus mju-II review – a great camera but too expensive for what it is
About Film Fridays: We recently launched an analog forum and in a continuing effort to promote the fun of the medium, we’ll be sharing film-related content on Fridays, including articles from our friends at 35mmc.
The post 10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
There is really no better time to practice some at-home creative photography ideas. There are lots of ideas you can experiment with, and with some basic equipment, you can really work wonders. Let’s get into it and discover some creative photography ideas you can work on at home, and work into a series of images.
1. Photographing water droplets
This is a classic project that you can try at home. It’s also relatively simple to set up, though you will need some specialized photographic equipment.
The equipment needed here includes a camera with a macro lens, a tripod, and an off-camera flash. You’ll then need to set up a location where you can drip water into a bowl of water. Learn more about how to take these photos here.
Water drop photography is another form of refraction photography.
2. Food photography
Everyone loves to practice food photography, especially when the food looks amazing! This genre is huge, and potentially lucrative, as the images you take could be sold as stock.
So what are some of the things that can lead to successful food photography in the home? Take a look at this list, but for a more detailed guide take a look at this article.
Lighting – This is key to good food photography. Natural light such as window sidelight works well. If you use off-camera flash, the light should come from behind the food, but be sure to reflect the light back to avoid shadows in your photo.
Backdrop – Standard still life backdrops like photographing the food in a lightbox can be effective. Otherwise, make sure the background provides context to the food you wish to photograph.
Food layout – Make sure your food is well presented. The best professional food photographers use food stylists, so see how you can produce something with style. The use of repeating elements is one potential solution here.
The best bit about food photography is eating the food!
3. Lensball light painting
A lot of Lensball photography will be carried outdoors, however, the Lensball is an excellent still-life object too.
One popular indoor project for Lensball photographers is light painting. You’ll need a dark room, tripod, and sheet of glass to go on the table as your initial setup.
Keyring – Use this under the ball to prevent it from rolling on the glass.
Table – Place the glass sheet on a table, and then put the ball on this.
Camera – Set the camera up on the tripod, and focus it on the ball.
Dark – Turn the lights off in the room, and ensure no ambient light seeps into the room.
Exposure – The exposure length should be around five seconds, but could be longer.
Light painting – With the camera setup, hit exposure, and light paint behind the ball with the light-emitting device of your choice.
In this photo, an iPhone was used to produce the light painting.
4. Freezing objects in ice
A fun project to try when you have a bit of time at home is freezing objects in ice. You’ll need a few days to complete each photo since there is a process involved in freezing an object. The main thing you need to achieve is getting the object to freeze in the middle of the block of ice.
If you want to read about how to successfully carry out this technique, then click this link.
Take your food photography in a different direction with this technique.
5. Still life photography
Once again, this is a huge genre in photography. The most professional photos will always have good lighting.
This style of photography could dovetail nicely with another hobby you may have. For instance, if you’re a quilter, photographing your finished product is a great idea.
If you want to get the best out of your still life photography then you can learn more by reading this article.
A nice simple image with a white background can look nice.
6. Mixing oil and water
Another of the at-home creative photography ideas involves getting into the science vibe with a bit of hydrophilic and hydrophobic action.
That’s mixing oil and water and then photographing the resultant oil “bubbles.”
You’ll need to add your oil and water mix to a glass container, and then suspend this glass container above the ground a little. Now you’re ready to photograph downwards and through the oil bubbles.
To get the best results, use colorful backgrounds underneath the glass container.
A classic project to try at home is mixing oil and water.
7. Water droplets on glass
Another science-based photography project you can try is placing water droplets on glass.
This style of photography utilizes refraction and repetition to produce great results.
You can experiment with the number of water droplets, or varying the background to increase your output. To learn more about this read this article.
Use an interesting background to get great results.
8. Learn a new post-processing skill
One of the more obvious candidates for at-home creative photography ideas is post-processing.
Everyone knows this is a vital aspect of photography, it’s basically the new darkroom. Yet investing time in learning new post-processing skills when you’d rather be outside photographing? Well, if you have to be inside, then learning some new post-processing skills is a great idea!
Digital blending – A great technique to learn for landscape photographers, you’ll learn some key Photoshop skills like layer masking through learning this procedure.
Cloning – Whether it’s cloning an object out of the image, or cloning yourself multiple times, this is a great skill to learn.
Sharpening and softening – An essential skill for portrait photographers to learn. Sharpen the eyes and soften the skin for best results.
In this photo, cloning and selective coloring were both used in post-processing.
9. Creating bokeh shapes
This is a great project with a little hands-on craft to it.
Bokeh is produced when your camera blurs the background, and this area of the photo is referred to as bokeh. When there are points of light in the background they will enlarge to “balls of light.”
To create bokeh shapes, you need to put that shape onto the front of your lens. This involves attaching a black disc to your lens, with the desired shape in the center of this disc. Want to try this out? Take a look here.
This photo used shaped bokeh with colored fairy lights in the background.
10. Light spirals
Another kind of light painting you can try at home is light spirals. This is a lot of fun, and you can get quite creative with the patterns you produce.
You’ll need a completely dark room to get the best results from this. You’ll be spinning a light source attached to some string, and this will be above your camera.
This is a long exposure photo, so of course, a tripod is recommended. However, you could go without in this case by placing the camera faced upwards on the ground. If you want to learn more, then check out this excellent video.
Light patterns like this can look great.
Which of these at-home creative photography ideas will you take on?
With time at home it’s a great chance to take up an indoor photography project. Have you ever tried any of these at-home creative photography ideas yourself?
If you haven’t, which of these is the most interesting to you? Perhaps you have another technique like water-drops on a CD, that you’ll try out?
As always, please leave your thoughts and comments below, and if you have any images you’re willing to share that would be great as well!
The post 10 Great At-Home Creative Photography Ideas appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
The post How to Use Intentional Camera Movement in Your Photography to Great Effect appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
The presentation of motion in a static image is the subject of this article – a seeming contradiction in terms. This is not the case, and today you’ll discover how to use intentional camera movement to create dynamic images. You’ll learn the techniques you can use during the day and those which you can use at night. So read on and find out how you can make your photos dynamic!
What is intentional camera movement?
This image used a day time zoom burst, and a strong ND filter.
The majority of the time, you’ll be taught to keep your camera still, to avoid blur in your photo. However, what if you moved the camera during an exposure, and you did it on purpose? This is what intentional camera movement is.
Now for this effect to work, you’ll need to use slow shutter speeds. You won’t see any worthwhile results from shutter speeds over 1/100th.
It’s possible to practice this handheld with shutter speeds between 1/50th and half a second. Anything slower than that will require a tripod for the best results.
How to use intentional camera movement during the day
There is more than one way you can apply intentional camera movement to your work. The most well known is probably panning. The following are the main ways you can move your camera, and produce interesting results.
Panning is a technique that tracks movement.
1. Panning
Panning is a technique used to show the motion of a moving object. The aim is to move your camera at the same pace as a moving object and to expose the image for around a third of a second to produce blur in the background.
There are several ways you can refine this technique to produce even better results.
The shutter speed used will also be dependent on the speed of the object you are panning. This is a nice technique to try as there is a clear main subject, which is not always the case with intentional camera movement.
2. Zooming
A night time zoom burst, with light painting across the scene.
Using zoom during the day can also give interesting results. You’ll learn how you can add even more to this technique at night by reading below. The effect is produced by changing the focal distance of your lens, so primes lenses won’t work here.
The following are the steps you’ll need to take to create a daytime zoom burst.
Exposure – You’ll need to find a location that allows you to expose at 1/10th second or longer. If you choose to use a longer exposure, you’ll need a tripod.
Lens – You’ll need a lens that allows you to manually change the focal distance during the course of the exposure.
Filter – Those daytime long exposures will likely require an ND filter to achieve them.
Zoom in – The effect will broadly be the same whether you zoom in or zoom out, but for daytime zoom, it’s better to zoom in.
Focus – Focus your camera at the focal distance you intend to finish the zoom burst at. This may require pre-focusing the camera, and setting the camera to manual focus for the exposure itself.
Location – A location with something overhead like a tree canopy will work best to show the zoom effect. A clear sky won’t show any zoom at all.
3. Intentional camera movement
This type of photo is often very abstract in nature. The goal is to move the camera in such a way it produces appealing blur patterns in your image. You’ll need a longer exposure to produce this.
Circular motion is a type of intentional camera movement.
The best movements are often defined shapes. If you move your camera in a straight line, a circular motion, or perhaps a heart shape, you should get a nice result.
It’s possible to carry out photos like this handheld if the exposure is short, and you keep to a simple movement. An exposure of around half a second would work for this.
4. Using a tripod
It also possible to use intentional camera movement from a tripod, though you’ll be limited to the movements your tripod head will allow. That means you can produce all the shapes mentioned above, you’ll just be pivoting from a fixed position.
The advantage of using a tripod is that the camera will be that much steadier. The next advantage is that if you wish to combine intentional camera movement with a stationary phase to an exposure, this is possible with a tripod.
Techniques you can use at night
Lights from an event like Christmas are great opportunities for kinetic light paintings.
It’s that much easier to practice intentionally camera movement at night. That’s for two reason. The first is it’s easier to carry out long exposure, as the light level will be lower. The second is light sources you’ll see out night will light paint across your scene. In fact by night intentional camera movement might more accurately be described as kinetic light painting. The techniques listed above can be adapted to night photography. Panning is almost the same, so this won’t be discussed any further.
1. Kinetic light painting zoom
Kinetic light painting involves changing the focal distance of a zoom lens, during a long exposure photo. The exposure lengths at night mean you’ll now need to use a tripod to get good photos using this technique.
A key difference with daytime zooming is that it’s preferable to zoom out when practicing this. The reason for this is you want the light paint to zoom outwards across your scene. If you zoom in, the chances are you’ll have light painting across your main subject in the center of your scene. To find out more about this technique, you can read this article.
This photo shows the result of camera rotation, and kinetic light painting.
2. Kinetic light painting rotation
Another type of kinetic light painting is camera rotation. Once again, you’ll need a tripod for this, and you’ll move your camera body while it’s attached to the tripod. It’s a technique that works best where there are tall structures. These can be tall buildings, statues or perhaps Christmas trees.
To make this technique work, you’ll need these structures to have lights on them. To find out more about camera rotation read this article.
Create dynamic images intentionally!
Now it’s your turn to get out and create some images. If you can’t get out and about, try some of these in your yard or home. It’s a great way of adding narrative to an image, or perhaps to create a completely abstract image.
Have you tried any of the ideas mentioned in this article? If you have what were your experiences?
As always, if you have images that display intentional camera movement, please share them in the comments.
The post How to Use Intentional Camera Movement in Your Photography to Great Effect appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
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