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7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography

22 Sep

The post 7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

7 tips for crystal ball photography

Glass ball photography is a fantastic way to create compelling images, the kind that will leave your audience both wowed and curious.

But how do glass ball photos work? How do you set up beautiful images? And how do you use a simple crystal ball to capture such striking effects?

In this article, I share everything you need to get started, including a lensball recommendation, plenty of tips, and even a few crystal ball photography ideas.

Let’s dive right in.

Doing Crystal Ball Refraction Photography - house inside glass ball

How does glass ball photography work?

Glass ball photography, also known as crystal ball photography, uses refraction to capture unique images. A crystal ball (lensball) is placed in front of a scene; the scene is then refracted in the ball. Thanks to the magic of physics, you end up with an inverted image in the ball, which you can then capture with your camera.

As the photographer, you have ultimate control over your lensball image. For instance, by repositioning the ball (and by repositioning the camera with respect to the ball), you’ll capture different perspectives. You can also adjust the aperture for shallow depth of field effects (where the ball is framed by a blurry background), and you can change the distance from the camera to the ball for an interesting close-up effect. I discuss these techniques in greater detail below.

1. Consider flipping the upside down image

Thanks to refraction, the image inside a glass ball is flipped. Which means you have two options:

  1. You can leave the inverted image and incorporate it into the composition. For instance, you can juxtapose the flipped image with the real scene in the background.
  2. You can rotate the image during post-processing, so that the ball’s image appears right side up. Here, you may want to blur out the background with a wide aperture; that way, the flipped background isn’t obvious.

As you’ll see throughout this article, I use a mix of techniques. Sometimes, I like to keep the inverted crystal ball image. Other times, I flip the image for a less disorienting effect.

By the way, if you want to create a sharp, right side up image but you don’t want to do any rotation in post-processing, there is another option:

You can use the ball to photograph reflections. After all, reflections are naturally upside down, but the ball will invert them for a normal-looking result.

upside-down image in a crystal ball.

The image inside the ball will be upside down.

2. Get on a level with your subject

It might be tempting to put your glass ball on the ground and shoot into it, but this will actually cause significant distortion, plus it will create less compositional impact.

Instead, I recommend getting your ball up off the ground and on a level with your subject. The key here is to ensure your subject is centered in the ball, so feel free to move the setup around until you get the composition you’re after.

Note that you’ll want to keep your hands out of the frame, so you can either get up close and only photograph part of the ball, or you can perch the ball on an elevated platform, like a rock, a car, or a bench.

Of course, there are exceptions to this advice. Sometimes, it pays to place the ball on the ground, especially if you plan to photograph puddles or leaf beds.

3. Fill the glass ball with your subject

Unless you get close to your subject, it will appear very small inside the ball. So do what you can to close the distance, until your subject looms large in the ball (and consequently the frame).

This might involve careful planning or even some creativity. The ball is like a wide-angle lens, so try to think about your shot as if you’re photographing it at 16mm or so. Would the scene fill the frame at 16mm? If so, you’re golden!

cityscape crystal ball photography

In this photo, the cityscape is captured inside the ball.

4. Choose the correct lens

Yes, you can do glass ball photography with literally any lens, from ultra-wide to super-telephoto. But if you want to maximize the impact of the ball, I’d really recommend using a macro lens (or a telephoto lens with significant close-focusing capabilities).

Thanks to a macro lens, you can get close to the ball, which does two things:

  1. It lets you increase the size of the ball in your shot (in other words, you can get close for lots of detail).
  2. It helps you create strong background bokeh, which is key if you want to flip the image and keep it natural looking (discussed in Tip 1).

A wide-angle lens can work, too, but only if the scene allows it. I recommend experimenting with a macro lens and a wide-angle lens to determine the effect you like best.

5. Choose the correct aperture

The aperture influences the depth of field (i.e., the amount of the scene that’s in focus).

Set an ultra-wide aperture, and you’ll end up with a beautifully blurred background and a sharp foreground. Set an ultra-narrow aperture, and you’ll end up with a crisp foreground and a crisp background.

Neither is obviously better than the other; it just depends on the effect you want. If you’d prefer to create a blurry background (for example, you want to flip the image without a disorienting result), you might try using an aperture of f/4 or so. This will generally blur out the background while creating a sharp image inside the ball.

But be sure to review the image on your LCD afterward to make sure you get the result you want. If you go too wide, even the ball will be blurred, and everything will become an out-of-focus mess. Also, the depth of field depends on other factors as well, such as the distance between the lensball and the camera, so experimentation is always a good idea.

lensball close up

6. Find a safe place to position the ball

This is very important, especially if you are photographing from a high vantage point. Balls are, well, balls, which means that they like to roll, and you certainly don’t want your crystal ball rolling off a bench (or worse, a building). Best case scenario, it’ll end up with scratches – and worst case scenario, it’ll smash and you’ll need to buy a new one.

That’s why I recommend putting the ball on a flat surface, and a crevice is better (if you can find one). Place the ball carefully, then let it sit for a few seconds. Even if the ball seems stable, keep your (or a friend’s) hands nearby, and watch it like a hawk, especially on windy days. You do not want the ball to blow off in the middle of a photo!

If you can’t find a good resting place, you might just ask a friend to hold the ball for you. Or, with some practice, you can hold the ball yourself (though this is always tricky; unless you’re working with a tripod, you’ll need to hold the ball in one hand while focusing and firing the shutter with the other!).

using reflections for a natural result

In this photo of the Taj Mahal, there is a reflection in the background, and this reflected image is in fact upside down.

7. Make sure your subject is well-lit

Pretty much every photo can benefit from a well-lit subject, but it’s especially important for crystal ball photography.

Why? A strongly lit subject will shine through the ball while minimizing reflections. (Yes, those pesky reflections that come from in front of the ball and can show unwanted elements such as the camera lens!)

That’s why I recommend you photograph with the sun behind you and striking your subject directly. Alternatively, you can photograph during the blue hour or at night, but aim to photograph buildings with brightly lit facades.

(On the other hand, reflections can create interesting effects, so don’t be afraid to try out different lighting scenarios if you’re feeling creative.)

Glass ball photography vs standard photography

Are you wondering whether it makes sense to pursue glass ball photography? After all, do you really want to play around with a lensball when you could be capturing a beautiful wide-angle shot of the same scene?

In this section, I’ve put together a quick list of pros and cons – which will help you decide whether crystal ball photography makes sense for you.

Glass ball pros

  • A glass ball is cheaper than a lens and allows you to create a unique fisheye effect
  • A ball offers flexibility; you can move it to different positions in your scene
  • You can use a large aperture in conjunction with the ball to create bokeh
  • Scenes created with a crystal ball often have a more artistic feel
  • The ball creates a natural frame for your scene

Glass ball cons

  • Larger glass balls are heavy to carry (in an already heavy camera bag)
  • You need a macro lens to get the best results
  • The edge of a glass ball produces distortion
  • Getting a sharp image inside the ball can be difficult
  • The image in the ball is upside down, which gives you another problem to contend with

In fact, here’s a quick illustration of a crystal ball effect. First, we have a standard wide-angle image of a scene:

A wide angle photo of a famous road junction in Shanghai.

And here’s the same scene, but shot with a glass ball:

Lensball road junction

What do you think? Which shot do you prefer? The choice to use a glass ball is yours to make, though I highly recommend trying it out. Personally, I feel the pros majorly outweigh the cons (plus, you’ve made it this far in the article, which means you know all sorts of helpful tips!)

If you find crystal balls too heavy to carry all the time, you can try scouting scenes in advance, then returning for a second visit with only the equipment you need to get your photo.

Glass ball photography: final words

Well, there you have it:

Plenty of tips to get started with crystal ball photography. You will, of course, need a crystal ball – which you can buy easily on Amazon for around $ 27 USD. Once the ball arrives, head to a local landmark and start experimenting. The list of subjects really is endless; you can start with a lone tree, a church, or even a cityscape scene.

Now over to you:

Have you tried lensball photography? Do you think you’ll start? Share your thoughts and images in the comments below!

Volcanic lake found in Indonesia in glass ball

Natural landscapes look great inside the ball. This is a volcanic lake found in Indonesia.

The post 7 Tips for Gorgeous Glass Ball Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


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This $95 lens attachment turns the world around you into a globe using a little glass marble

11 Nov

We’ve come across a number of weird lenses and lens accessories over the years, but the Soratama from Zenjix certainly stands out from the crowd, for better or worse.

The lens attachment features a 72mm filter thread and is designed to go in front of nearly any lens you can find step down/up rings for. It uses a single sheet of glass with what is effectively a clear marble to turn the world around you into a little globe of sorts.

These globe-style shots aren’t new, per se, but unlike photos that use larger glass orbs, this attachment is smaller and means your hand won’t be in the image. We can’t attest to image quality, but the above video shows what kind of shots are possible with the Soratama. There are multiple versions of the Soratama being sold on eBay, starting around $ 95 with shipping.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Canon shows off EOS R5, RF 100-500mm lens under glass at WPPI

27 Feb

Canon EOS R5 at WPPI

The upcoming Canon EOS R5 was on display at the company’s booth at the 2020 WPPI Expo in Las Vegas, so we stopped by (and nudged our way past other attendees as politely as possible) to get a closer look. The representatives present at the booth couldn’t provide any details beyond the development announcement; “what’s been published is all we know,” was the common refrain. In case you missed it, here’s what we know:

  • Newly designed CMOS sensor (we’re guessing ~40MP)
  • In-camera image stabilization
  • 20 fps continuous shooting (silent shutter)
  • 12 fps continuous shooting (mechanical shutter)
  • 8K video capture
  • Twin card slots

Still, we took some photos to get a better idea of what Canon’s done ergonomically to its upcoming full-frame mirrorless model.

We can see right away that the grip is deeply sculpted, with an almost-certainly customizable function button near the lens mount. Just behind the ‘EOS R5 DEVELOPMENT ANNOUNCEMENT’ label there’s another port door that’s hard to see, but may conceal a socket for a remote release or wireless transmitter.

Card slots

Here down the side of the camera we can see the card slot door. Again, all we know is that there are dual slots behind there; but the advertised provision of 8K capture means that they’ll need to be speedy, even with a good compression algorithm. Dual-type slots on the EOS 5D Mark IV could be a hint here; perhaps we’ll see one SD slot and one CFExpress slot. Or maybe just dual UHS-II SD card slots. Time will tell.

Top panel

On the top right of the camera, we can see what looks to be an identical control layout to the existing EOS R. The same status panel, and the same Mode + Dial combo for changing your exposure modes. Do you prefer this way of working, or do you long for an old-fashioned mode dial like Canon put on the lower-end RP? Let us know in the comments.

On/Off switch

On the opposite side of the camera is the on/off switch, similar in size to those on the EOS R and RP, but there’s a bit more of a protrusion near the back, perhaps for easier operation with your thumb. That also looks to be a polycarbonate panel surrounding the flash hot shoe, which is likely a ‘window’ for the camera’s wireless connectivity antennas.

Rear plate controls

Apologies for quality of this image, but the camera was nearly up against the back of the display, and there was no visibility from back there – so we have to make do with this top-down angle.

First of all, in the place of the EOS R’s touchbar is a traditional AF joystick and better-placed AF-ON button. Just underneath that is a dedicated ‘magnify’ button for checking focus, along with ‘INFO’ and a ‘Q’ button for pulling up the on-screen quick menu.

Underneath this is a thumb-dial surrounding a ‘SET’ button; this is a familiar setup from many of the company’s DSLRs, and is making its first RF-mount appearance here. No surprise, the screen looks to have the same swivel-out and rotate design as the R and RP, but next to the ‘Menu’ button on the top left is a dedicated ‘RATE’ button, which is accompanied by a microphone. It could be that the R5 lets you attach audio clips to your images using this control.

Rounding out controls on the back of the camera are the traditional ‘Star’ and ‘Focus Selection’ buttons on the top right.

Ports

Again, given the nature of the display, this is the best view of the ports I can get you – but everything is legible, at least. So we know that there will be microphone and headphone ports, a remote port, and a USB (likely type-C) port and HDMI output. You can also get a clearer view of the port cover on the bottom-front of the camera.

It looks like there may be enough distance from the screen hinge to the mic and headphone ports that they won’t get in the way of each other, so fingers crossed on that.

Let’s take a look at the RF 100-500mm lens, also under development.

Canon RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L

In amongst the EOS R5 announcement was the teasing of ‘nine RF lenses’ coming later this year, including the RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L IS USM on the right side of this image. For comparison, it’s sitting next to an existing EF 100-400mm F4.5-5.6L IS II; the 100-500mm is a little chunkier, but of course, you’d need a teleconverter on the 100-400mm lens to get the same reach and that would add bulk of its own.

Canon RF 100-500mm controls

Here we can see the ‘smooth / tight’ ring the new RF 100-500mm shares with the EF 100-400mm. This basically sets the resistance of the zoom mechanism, depending on your preferences, or if you just want to eliminate zoom creep when you’re not actively shooting. We can also see the AF/MF switch and a focus limiter option.

Canon RF 100-500mm controls

Way down there, we can see the rest of the switches on the RF 100-500mm F4.5-7.1L, which include a stabilizer on/off switch and a ‘stabilizer mode’ option, giving users an option to bias the stabilizer depending on whether you want absolute stability or if you’re doing panning.

Canon EOS R5 at WPPI

And there you have it – Canon’s upcoming high-end, full-frame mirrorless camera, under glass. We’re hoping to learn more soon, but in the meantime what are you most excited for about this camera? Would you consider getting one yourself? Let us know in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Video: Making cyanotype prints from 120-year-old glass negatives found inside a time capsule

26 Feb

Photographer, YouTuber and self-proclaimed weird lens aficionado Mathieu Stern is back at it again, this time with an interesting new video showing how he developed a number of 120-year-old photographs he found hidden within a time capsule in a family home.

In speaking with DPReview, Mathieu says he ‘found a box dating from around 1900 judging by the objects and the technic of the photos found inside.’ To help bring the negatives to life, Mathieu decided to develop the images using a time-appropriate method of making prints, cyanotype.

The six-minute video first walks through the discovery process of the time capsule and the items within. From there, Mathieu shows the process he used to create the cyanotype prints and concludes the video with an overview of all the images he found.

It’s an unassumingly touching video that shows how seemingly simple snapshots can oftentimes have some of the most profound emotions behind them.

You can find more of Mathieu’s work on his YouTube channel.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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1,300 glass plates seized from Hitler’s personal photographer digitized by US National Archive

26 Apr
Adolf Hitler speaking at an undated rally.

Over a thousand glass plates showing Hitler’s rise to power and the Nazi leader throughout World War ll have been digitized by the US National Archive. The plates, some of which were broken into many parts, were the work of Hitler’s personal photographer Heinrich Hoffmann and were confiscated from the photographer by US troops at the end of the war.

According to The Washington Post special projects preservationist at the National Archive, Richard E Schneider, spent the better part of a year piecing together 1,270 images from a collection of 41,000 glass plates. The institution plans to make the pictures public soon when they will be released online.

Hoffman was the only photographer allowed to take Hitler’s picture, and the role made him extremely wealthy — he is said to have made over $ 35 million alone from the royalties on the picture of Hitler used on postage stamps during the Nazi era.

The pictures in the collection are all posed propaganda images used to develop Hitler’s public profile and to further the power of the Nazi party – even Hoffmann wasn’t allowed to take candid pictures. Some show Hitler on his own, while others show him speaking at rallies or posing with groups of senior party members, like Goebbels, Hess and Himmler.

Possibly one of the earliest published photos of Adolf Hitler, taken in 1923 when he was 34 years old.

Hoffmann was made Hitler’s official photographer in 1921 when Hitler took control of the Nazi party and the two became good friends. Eva Braun was Hoffmann’s studio assistant, and it was Hoffmann who introduced Hitler to her in 1929 – Hitler and Braun married the day before committing suicide in the closing stages of WWll.

After the war Hoffmann was arrested by the US Army and was sentenced to four years in jail for profiteering — including stealing and selling art works from Jewish families, museums and galleries. He died in 1957.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits [video]

29 Mar

The post 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.

In this video by Jessica Kobeissi, you’ll learn how you can use a simple piece of glass in different ways for some interesting portrait effects.

?

You can use the glass from a picture frame to achieve these effects:

1. Glass Alone

Simply experiment with the piece of glass using light reflections for shapes.

2. Water Drops

Add water drops to the glass and experiment with depth of field with it to create interesting effects on your model. Bringing the glass closer to the camera and focusing through it changes the effect.

3. Facial Mist

Spray a facial mist onto the glass to soften the image of the model and giving it an ethereal feel.

4. Clear Gel

Smear clear gel onto the glass to add interesting texture. Focus in on the gel or focus through to the model for a softer effect.

5. Shiny Stickers

Add shiny stickers to the glass. Bring the glass closer to the camera for out-of-focus bokeh effects created by the light on the stickers.

 

You may also find the following articles helpful:

5 Photography Hacks to Improve Your Creative Photography

Easy to Create Fake Underwater Photography Hack

DIY Photography Hacks and Accessories You Can Make at Home

5 DIY Hacks to Have in Your Camera Bag

DIY Lighting Hacks for Digital Photographers

The post 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Caz Nowaczyk.


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CP+ 2019: Olympus shows super-tele zoom and 2.0 TC under glass

03 Mar

Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 150-400mm 1:4.5 TC1.25x IS PRO

Olympus announced its intent to make a 150-400mm F4.5 zoom back in January. There was a demonstration sample on show at CP+ in Yokohama. The Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 150-400mm 1:4.5 TC1.25x IS PRO has a name that matches its considerable size.

Features (of some sort) galore

The side of the lens shows five switches, which we’d expect to give direct access to AF/MF, IS, focus limiting and two other things. Possibly including the control to engage and disengage the 1.25x teleconveter that’s built in. Bringing the TC into the optical path turns the lens into a 187.5-500mm F5.6. That’s 375-1000mm F11 equivalent, if those numbers aren’t already big enough for you.

Sensibly sized

Considering the range it covers it’s a relatively compact lens. While it’s easy to point out that it’s an F9 or F11 equivalent, it’s worth remembering that there aren’t many 300-800mm/375-1000mm lenses for other formats. If you need that impressive reach in a lens that you can actually pick up, this will be one of the only options.

There’s a predictably large lens hood/bucket to go with it.

Who’s it for?

Olympus says the lens will be available in 2020 and is intended for sport, wildlife and bird photographers.

M.Zuiko Digital 2x Teleconverter MC-20

Also on show was a non-built-in teleconverter: the MC-20, which will be available in Summer 2019. This doubles the focal length of a lens it’s attached to, but at the cost of 2 stops of light. The MC-20 can be used with 150-400mm F4.5 TC1.25x IS PRO as well as the existing M.Zuiko Digital ED 300mm F4.0 IS PRO and M.Zuiko Digital ED 40-150mm F2.8 PRO.

Combined with the forthcoming zoom and its internal teleconverter, we believe you’d get a 375-1000mm F11 lens (equivalent to a 750-2000mm F22 lens on full frame). Though the combination seems rather specialist.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Crystal clear: Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

03 May

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Located about 375 miles north of Tokyo in the Akita Prefecture, the Hikari Glass factory is a special place. Opened back in the 1970s, Hikari Glass has been a wholly owned subsidiary of Nikon since 2004. If you shoot with Nikon lenses, the chances are good that they started life right here – as raw powdered glass.

The Akita Prefecture, home of Hikari Glass, lies around 375 miles north of Tokyo.

Nikon invited us to visit Hikari Glass following the CP+ 2018 show in Yokohama, and along with our friends Dave Etchells and William Brawley of Imaging Resource, we were among the first journalists ever allowed inside the facility. During our visit we saw virtually the entire process of glass-making, from raw powder to finished glass ‘blanks’, ready for shaping and polishing in Nikon’s other facilities.

Click through this slideshow for a detailed look – please note that some areas of certain images are blurred at Nikon’s request.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Akita and the surrounding area is blanketed with snow for several months a year. We visited on a relatively mild day, but as you can probably tell from the ice buildup on this building, ‘mild’ is a relative term.

Our tour guide, Akio Arai is the Corporate Vice President and Production General Manager of the Akita factory and has been with the company for 11 years. At present, almost all of the Hikari factory’s output goes to satisfying Nikon’s requirements for high-quality glass, but Mr Arai hopes that in future his facility will be in a position to supply even more glass to companies other than Nikon.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

This powder contains several different ingredients (the biggest portion being quartz, but the exact mix is secret) which are mixed, melted, and eventually turned into finished glass.

The combining of the raw material happens in batches of around 500kg (~1100 lb) in a pair of very large mixers. The precision achieved in the mixing process is somewhere in the region of 1 part to 50,000. It’s vitally important that the mixture is exactly right, because Hikari is aiming for glass with a very specific refractive index.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

This tub of powder (roughly the size of a small hotel bathtub) is the raw material for Nikon’s famed ED glass, used in a great many of the company’s high-performance lenses. Hikari makes 125 different kinds of optical glass, including 20 types of ‘specialty glass’ for molded lens elements.

Once the powder has been mixed, it is melted. There are two types of melting process, depending on the types of glass. The simpler of the two is called ‘direct melting’, and the more complex is called ‘pre-melting’ and ‘fine melting’. We watched the latter.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

The pre-melting process begins with the raw powder being heated inside a quartz or platinum crucible (depending on the exact type of glass), in a furnace at a temperature of more than 1000 degrees Celsius. The furnaces are on platforms raised several feet above the factory floor. The mixture is added to the crucibles by machines very gradually. If all the powder were dumped in at once, only the surface of the mixture would melt.

With quartz crucibles, some of the quartz inevitably melts into the mixture. This is accounted for in the formula, but since they become thinner over time as the quartz melts, the crucibles have a limited lifespan – in some cases, this can be as short as two days. We weren’t allowed to show the crucibles in this article, but the ones we were shown were roughly the size of a small domestic water boiler.

Once the glass is fully melted, a hole is opened into the bottom of the crucible to allow the molten glass to escape into a large tank of water, positioned underneath the furnace at floor level. That’s what you can see in the image above.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

As the glass continues to drain, eventually the water that it’s draining into becomes so hot that it starts to boil.

The remainder of the heated glass is drained into the tank, and once everything is cooled down, workers will assess whether or not the crucible in the furnace can be used again, or needs to be retired. In the old days, glass used to be melted in clay crucibles, and for every 2,500 kilos of glass, only about 500 kilos was usable. The modern method is far less wasteful.

A small water jet to the right of the stream of molten glass helps break the stream up into small droplets which cool to form what are called ‘frit’.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

And here is the frit – they look like little flakes of snow, but that’s where the similarity ends. In the pre-melting process, the frit aren’t meant to have exactly the exact refractive qualities of the finished glass – it’s still basically a raw material. And there’s some variation in the flakes of frit, too. Depending on where the glass was positioned inside the crucible, the makeup of each frit might be slightly different (i.e., it might contain more or less quartz, thanks to the melting of the crucibles during the process).

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

The frit is mixed in these giant machines (it’s hard to get a sense of scale, but the fan on the far right is basically just a domestic room fan if that helps). If these look like modified and repurposed cement mixers, that’s because they are.

One of the major modifications over a standard cement mixer is inside the drums, which are lined with natural rubber to prevent any metal particles from the mixer contaminating the glass.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Here’s a closer view of the rubberized interior of the mixing drum. Any rubber particles that make it into the mix will burn off harmlessly in the next major process – ‘fine melting’.

In order to hit exactly the right target refractive index for a particular kind of glass, Hikari prepares two batches of frit, one batch with a refractive index deliberately on one side of the target value, and one with a refractive index on the other. The two batches are then remixed and fine-melted together in just the right way to produce glass with the exact target refractive index value.

The direct melting process skips this pre-melting step, making it less time-consuming. The difficult part is that the glass must have exactly the right refractive index from the get-go, which requires absolute purity of the raw materials, and gives much less margin for fine-tuning.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

The fine melting process is one of the two most critical stages in the entire glass-making process, and takes place in platinum crucibles inside very high-tech furnaces. The exact details of the fine melting furnaces (even their external appearance) are highly protected by Hikari Glass, and we weren’t allowed to take photographs of them.

That’s OK, because to the untrained eye they don’t look like much anyway. More interesting is what they produce – long, long bars of glass, called ingots, which roll out from the machines very, very slowly on a very, very long conveyor belt in a process called ‘casting’.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

A skilled worker marks and precisely breaks the cast ingot at specific intervals. This particular ingot is destined for use in Nikon lenses, while glass for prisms and other purposes are processed in a different building.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Once the ingot has been broken up into bars, each bar undergoes a quick inspection for any obvious major flaws or defects. If there is an apparent defect, these extruded glass bars are either recycled, if possible, or rejected.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

The glass bars are further checked for any bubbles or unevenness in an adjoining room. This is most often done visually, using a lightbox. Bubbles show up as bright specs, and ‘distortions’ (areas of substantially different refractive index) show up as wrinkles in the image projected onto the screen (left).

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Here, a worker points out a defect in a demonstration bar of glass.

During the decades that Hikari Glass has been operating, optical technology has changed a lot, and so has the legislation governing substances like lead and arsenic, which used to be commonly used in glass manufacturing. Over the years, Hikari Glass has refined its processes accordingly.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

To ascertain the exact refractive qualities of a piece of glass, Hikari Glass technicians turn to machines. To measure refractive index, a small test block of glass is cut, and a special liquid with the expected refractive index is then painted onto the glass. Technicians then load the painted cube of glass into this machine and look for variations in light transmission as light is shone through.

As well as the ‘final’ glass cast from the fine-melting furnaces, these machines are used to establish the refractive index of test batches of glass made from the frit we saw earlier.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Once they’ve passed this quality control step, the bars of glass are split into slim rods, using heat. A heating coil warms the bar, and after a predetermined period of time, a small drop of cold water applied to the end of the bar causes it to split neatly in two with a very satisfying “pink” sound.

This bar has just been split into two rods – the bars to the right, in the background are awaiting their turn.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

The glass rods are then cut into smaller…

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

…and smaller cubes, called ‘dice’ using a circular saw. You’ll notice there’s no glass dust anywhere to be seen in these images and that’s because the ‘saw’ doesn’t have a cutting surface (you could put your hand right on it, without any fear of injury). It works by friction – the spinning disc heats the glass at the point of contact, creating a clean break.

Each cube is slightly bigger than it ultimately needs to be, so that there’s scope for its weight to be precisely adjusted in the next stage of the process – grinding.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

The cubes of glass are weighed and placed into four categories, according to their approximate target weight. Their weight is then adjusted by grinding stones, in a very noisy machine called a tumbler (pictured above, and there’s a video of it in operation, below).

The cubes of glass that are heaviest are added to the tumbler first, followed by the second-heaviest cubes, then the third and finally the fourth. In this way, the cubes of glass that need most weight shaved from them are processed for longer, and they all come out weighing roughly the same.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

After hanging out in the tumbler for a while, the cubes look like pieces of beach glass.

A skilled employee then inspects each one by hand and performs any necessary additional grinding to make sure that any small chips are smoothed out, and the weight falls within the desired parameters.

This particular piece has a chip (marked in red), which is big enough that unfortunately it’s reached the end of the line and will be rejected.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Several areas of the Hikari factory are dusted with white powder, but it isn’t glass dust, it’s boron nitride – a heat-resistant compound of boron and nitrogen which is used in several industries, including cosmetics. At the Hikari factory, it’s used to stop the cakes of glass from sticking to their casts when they’re pressed into shape.

A welcome effect of the roughening of the glass surface in the tumblers is that it makes the boron nitride adhere more effectively.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

And now the pressing begins!

The blocks of glass, covered in boron nitride, are placed into their ceramic trays and sent on a conveyer belt through a furnace – which not coincidentally, makes this area one of the warmer sections of the Hikari facility. The aim is to soften the glass, but not quite to melting point.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

The very, very hot piece of glass is moved by hand (well, by tongs) and tipped into a heated mold. The molds for lens elements like these are pretty simple, but we’re told that it takes much longer to prepare the molds for glass destined for DSLR and binocular prisms.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Once the glass is in the mold, a worker then activates a foot pedal to press the cake of glass into shape. A clock serves as a rough point of reference for the length of time each cake of glass is pressed, but an experienced press operator can also make this call by assessing the hardness of the glass based on how the mold feels in his hands.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

After pressing, and cooling, the cakes of glass (which are now in their puck-shaped final form) are collected for inspection.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Each cake of glass is inspected by hands for any obvious defects resulting from pressing.

This large piece of glass is destined for one of Nikon’s high-end telephoto lenses, and pieces like this go through extra inspection steps because they’re produced in a lower volume.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

Last but not least is the annealing process – the second most critical phase in the glass-making process, after fine melting. Like fine melting, the exact details of the annealing process are highly confidential. Essentially, annealing is a precisely-regulated heating and cooling process, which takes place over a long period of time – often several days. The goal is to make the internal density of the glass blanks completely consistent, and to eliminate any remaining bubbles and to adjust the refractive index. Generally speaking, lengthier cooling cycles result in denser glass with a higher refractive index, and shorter cycles produce less dense, higher RI glass.

The specific temperature brackets – and the period of time over which those temperatures are sustained – is critical (and secret) and depends on the exact type of glass. The huge plates of glass used in industrial steppers might spend up to two months in the annealing furnace.

The green chalkboard on the front of this furnace is used by workers to record the ‘recipe’ for the particular trays of glass blanks that have been loaded in. This furnace isn’t being used, which is why there’s nothing written on the board (and why we were allowed to take pictures of it).

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

After all that, at long last, we have a finished ‘blank.’ These blanks are packaged and sent off to other Nikon facilities in Japan, China and Thailand for polishing and coating, before finally making their way into NIKKOR lenses.

Inside Nikon’s Hikari Glass factory

And that’s it! Here, finished blanks of glass are placed into plastic pallets ready for dispatch.

To recap, here are the major stages in the entire process from beginning to end, with links:

  1. Initial mixing of the raw materials to make glass powder LINK
  2. Pre-melting of the glass to make ‘frits’, which are intentionally created to have either a positive or negative R.I. (direct melting is a simpler process, that we did not observe) LINK
  3. Mixing the frits LINK
  4. Fine melting of the frits (not pictured) to achieve the target refractive index, and extrusion and cutting of the glass ingots into bars LINK
  5. Inspection of the glass for defects LINK
  6. Cutting into blocks into rods and dice LINK
  7. Adjusting the weight of the glass dice in the grinding machine LINK
  8. Heating and pressing the glass dice into molds LINK
  9. Annealing of the resulting blanks, to eliminate distortions in the glass and fine-tune the refractive index LINK
  10. Inspection and measurement of the finished glass blanks

We hope you enjoyed this look inside Nikon’s Hikari glass factory. If you’re eager to learn even more, our friend Dave Etchells over at Imaging Resource has published an even more detailed account of our visit here.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Photograph Water Droplets on Glass

02 Apr

A little creativity at home can be a lot of fun in photography. In this article, you’ll see how you can make some miniature worlds with some water droplets and a piece of glass!

The process is straightforward enough, you just need some magic sauce. We’ll get to the magic sauce, and why that works in a moment. So let’s take a look at this how-to guide for photographing water droplets.

How to Photograph Water Droplets on Glass

Who can resist photographing the club badge of their favorite sports team?

The equipment you’ll need

With the exception of the camera equipment, all the items you’ll need for this can be found around the home. The following is a guide to that equipment, but you may have other alternatives as well:

  • The glass – You’ll need to find a piece of glass to put the water on. This must be cleaned, so there are no marks. Glass from a picture frame is the obvious source.
  • The stand – A pile of books with a gap in the middle will work here, once again use what you have at hand. You will need to have two piles of books, with the glass bridging the gap. Each pile needs to be around 20cm (8″) high.
  • A background – This is the picture or patterned paper that you wish to appear in the water droplets when you photograph them.
  • A camera – Ideally this will be a DSLR, though any camera that allows for macro photography will work. A camera that allows you to use off-camera flash is better still.
  • The lighting – You have two options here, to use strobes or to use a spotlight. Your result will be better with a strobe that it triggered by a remote attached to the camera hot-shoe. If this is unavailable you could use spotlights to light up the background, the brighter the better.
  • A tripod – A tripod to put your camera on, is the key to ensuring the sharp focus of the water droplets. You can use the camera handheld, but the results will be less sure.
  • The water – A water dropper will be needed to place the water droplets on the glass.
  • The magic sauce -You’ll need some car windscreen water repellent. Using this will make the water form droplets on the glass.
How to Photograph Water Droplets on Glass

Here is some of the equipment needed for photographing water droplets on glass. The most important product to get is Rain X.

The setup

The above equipment now needs to be set up ready to photograph water droplets. This is an easy process, so just follow these steps:

  1. Create two piles of books. These should be around 20cm (8″) in height, and with a large enough gap to fit your background between them.
  2. Clean the glass, ensuring that there are no marks on it.
  3. Place the piece of glass on top of the two piles of books, arranging it so that it bridges the gap between the piles. Be careful with the glass, try to avoid breaking it!
  4. Spray the glass with the rain repellent. Wipe away the excess liquid, and then allow it to dry. This should happen fairly quickly.

    ***The repellent is flammable, so again, please take care handling this liquid.***

  5. Now place some water drops onto the glass using the dropper. The pattern of drops and proximity of each of them to one another is up to you.
  6. Place your background between the two piles of books.
  7. Place your light source over the background. Make sure it’s not going to shine on the glass first, the aim is to bounce the light off the background and back up through the glass.
  8. Position your tripod next to the plate of glass.
  9. Put your camera on the tripod so it is aiming down through the glass. Ensure the tripod is steady and doesn’t tilt or tip over with the weight of the camera body.
How to Photograph Water Droplets on Glass

This is the main setup I used for taking these photos. The strobe is not in the right position yet, it should be aimed at the striped background.

How to take the photograph

With the setup complete, you’re now ready to take the photos. The following is a step-by-step guide on how to do this:

  1. Focus your camera on a section of the glass plate with an interesting water drop formation. To get the sharpest focus turn off the camera’s autofocus and use manual. Now turn on Live View mode, zoom into a droplet (using the magnify view button), and focus the lens manually until the image is sharp.
  2. Move the background around to ensure it’s in the best position. You’ll want to look at both how it looks in the water droplets, and also as a background behind them.
  3. The camera settings you use can be varied, the following are a guide or starting point. The strobe you’re using may vary in strength, but there is certainly no need for full power. A Canon 430ex II at 1/32 power is sufficient. An aperture of f/9 and a shutter speed of 1/60th was used for the photos in this article.
  4. Once you have your photo check your results. You could now focus on some different droplets, move the background, or change the background.

The demonstration photos I took for this article didn’t quite work. In Korea, I was unable to buy Rain X, and the brand I did buy, didn’t work in the same way.

Now it’s your turn!

This, of course, is a form of refraction photography, and not the only way to photograph water droplets.

Have you tried this method, or something similar? How about showing the community your work in the comments section, either past or new images. This is an easy technique to try out at home, and anyone can do it. So why not have a go!?

How to Photograph Water Droplets on Glass

Here Rain X was used, and the difference is clear. In the background are some colored pencils.

How to Photograph Water Droplets on Glass

At the time these photos were taken I was living in Malaysia, so this is the Malaysian flag.

How to Photograph Water Droplets on Glass

This was my first attempt at this style of photo, at this point I wasn’t using Rain X.

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Deciding on a Responsible Car Glass Store

06 Mar

Irrespective of how harmless you travel, there are actually numerous situations when an individual hits your car consequently leaving its windshield, facet glass, window, and so on in a very weakened issue. Here is the time any time you need to have guidance of the car glass mend or substitution store. There are loads of http://highclassautoglass.com/ shops which were assisting buyers to some significant extent with this regard. Just before selecting a particular shop, one particular really should be careful.
Usually pick a shop that supports important functions like:

Use of state-of-the-art devices for repair service and substitution

This is certainly among the key features supported by an excellent quality shop. Top quality of kit utilized by the shop directly has an effect on the effectiveness on the car or truck. In the event the quality is inadequate, there are probabilities you may well not realize the best possible success from it. A fantastic excellent store often makes usage of advanced machines that also are perfectly tested in advance of use.

Same day services facility

The majority of the car glass retailers offer customers together with the facility to consider their motor vehicles back for their residences in just the same working day. It really is superior to choose a single this kind of store. So, it is possible to get back around the highway with your motor vehicle inside of an exceedingly shorter time.

Assured work

A high quality glass store always supplies assured providers into the customers. This suggests they would not really need to worry about struggling with virtually any issues with their car or truck inside the coming time. Just in case it comes about, they could get the destroyed aspect repair or maybe changed without having paying any extra volume of cash from their pockets.

Addition expert services

A lot of the automobile glass shops offer supplemental expert services like auto cleansing, maintenance, discount rates, and many others. every now and then. Choosing a person these types of centre is in truth a very good choice.

Educated and expert technicians

Be certain the centre you are deciding upon for just about any of your respective auto glass repair service and substitute wants really should contain seasoned and competent crew associates able more than enough to glimpse after diverse forms of problems. On top of that to this, they must even be insured and certified to carry out every kind of repairs.

A glass shop with all of these attributes is definitely a very good alternative. Taking assist from online is often very valuable on this regard. A lot of web sites present clients using a listing of outlets offering excellent providers on this regard. Clients can examine all and opt for the one dependant upon their wants, specifications and finances.

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