Canon Inc. and Canon Marketing Japan Inc. have announced their plans for the upcoming Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic games. Canon will set up a photo service center for professional photographers at the Main Press Center (MPC). The MPC is where international press gathers during Tokyo 2020.
Canon’s photo service center will ensure professional photographers are well-equipped to capture iconic imagery during the games. In addition to providing Canon’s best cameras and lenses, the photo service center will offer photographers a network of service and support.
’Thus far, Canon has provided on-site support for press photographers, including camera and lens maintenance and technological support, behind the scenes at major sporting events around the world,’ Canon said. ‘The Tokyo 2020 Games are no exception—there too, Canon will apply its professional support know-how acquired over its long history to provide flexible and appropriate support for photographers and the various requests and equipment troubles they may have.’
Credit: Canon
Located at the Tokyo Big Sight Convention Center, Canon’s photo service center will be the largest photo service center during the event. Canon is a Gold Partner for Tokyo 2020, supplying still cameras and printers.
The photo service center will operate under a principle of ‘zero downtime,’ ensuring photographers won’t miss their opportunities to capture iconic moments during the games. Canon writes, ‘Canon will provide speedy maintenance service, equipment repairs and loaning of replacement equipment so that photographers can always be ready and in the best possible condition.’
Canon 1DX Mark III
Equipment on hand will include DSLR and mirrorless cameras and lenses, including EOS-1DX III and Canon EOS R5 and R6 cameras. Many lenses will be available, including Canon’s telephoto and super-telephoto optics, ideal choices for sports photography.
Spectators will be sure to see many white lenses in photographer bays and around the events. Canon’s white lenses are iconic, and their origins are traced back to the 1970s. Canon writes, ‘Canon developed the signature white of its lens barrels as a tool for photographers at international sporting events. The first such lenses* produced by the company, the FD600mm f/4.5 S.S.C. and FD800mm f/5.6 S.S.C. large-diameter super-telephoto lenses, were released in June 1976.’
Credit: Canon
White paint reflects heat better than black paint. This is especially important on large lenses, such as telephoto optics. When a lens heats up, the increasing temperatures can adversely affect optical performance.
To learn more about Canon’s services at Tokyo 2020, including Canon’s robotics, read the company’s announcement.
Are you struggling to capture incredible shots in a humid atmosphere? This is the story of almost every photographer. If you have worked in sweltering temperatures, you might be familiar with the preparations and care your camera needs to prevent condensation. Humidity and your camera are rivals. Photographers need to store their cameras and lenses in an ideal storage humidity Continue Reading Photodoto
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The post Photography Equipment for Beginners: What to Buy When Starting Out appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
You’ve decided you want to get more serious about photography, move beyond just making snapshots with your cellphone, and perhaps even pursue making money from your hobby. You’re ready to start shopping for a better camera and the accessories that go with it.
Many articles about photography equipment for beginners will immediately start recommending makes and models. Or, if you walk into a traditional brick-and-mortar photo store, a salesperson might start showing you equipment, eager to make a big sale.
Your needs should dictate what to buy. Might a simple point-and-shoot be a good starter camera, or will you need a full-frame DSLR with a long lens and a big tripod? Don’t just buy what a salesperson or someone else tells you is “the best.” Ask yourself some important questions.
Ask other photographers, “What should I buy?” and many will launch into a list of equipment they like, probably favoring the make and model of the gear they own.
(Stay far away from “fanboys,” people who will tell you Brand X is the only way to go and only idiots would buy anything else.)
I’m here to suggest that, rather than immediately seeking a make/model answer to the “What should I buy?” question, you should instead start by asking yourself some more general questions.
Assessing your needs
Cameras and associated equipment will not make you a great photographer, any more than buying an expensive sports car will instantly make you a winning race car driver. To take that analogy further, why would you plunk down the big bucks for that exotic sports car when all you need is something to drive to the grocery store?
The same goes for simply buying the “latest and greatest” gear because that’s what other photographers are excited about, or because that make/model is the buzz of trade magazines and online photo sites. Porsche sports cars have a great reputation, but do you need one? The new mirrorless cameras from the big-name camera manufacturers are exciting, but are they right for you?
If money is no object (I wish that were my situation!), does that mean you should buy the most expensive, sophisticated camera and all the lenses and goodies to go with it? Will that guarantee you have the “best” and most capable gear that will ensure you make stellar photos?
I hope you don’t just reach for your wallet. Instead, do a little self-assessment and homework first.
You could just buy the top-of-the-line flagship camera from one of the big-name companies and figure it would do everything you’d ever need. But when you’re still learning, the plethora of buttons, dials, knobs, and menus would likely overwhelm you. Then you’d be paying for things you won’t use or understand. The “best” is not always what is best for you.
So, let’s explore the questions you should be asking yourself as we dive into photography equipment for beginners.
What do you already know about photography?
If you’re looking for photography equipment for beginners, here’s the first question you should ask:
What do you already know about photography?
How much knowledge and experience do you already have? Have you only made some “pretty pictures” with a single press of the shutter button on your cellphone? Have you heard of the exposure triangle? Do you understand what ISO, shutter speed, and aperture are and how they interact to control exposure, depth of field, and motion capture? Have you had or might you have an interest in pursuing formal instruction to better learn both the artistic composition of photos and the technical operation of the camera?
What do you already know about photography? Do you understand the exposure triangle? When exploring photography equipment for beginners, your pre-existing knowledge, as well as your interest in learning, should be factors in deciding the right gear for you.
Sure, you can buy a fancier, more expensive camera with the idea that you will “grow into it.” Of course, that more sophisticated camera with buttons, knobs, dials, and cryptic menus could also overwhelm you as a beginner. Sometimes simpler is better, especially when you’re still learning.
On the flip side, a cheap point-and-shoot, highly automatic camera might be easy to learn, but can very quickly create limitations for you as you grow as a photographer.
The real question here is, “How serious are you about photography?”
Do you simply want a camera you will use on occasion, perhaps take on vacation, and that will make good photos with its automatic modes? Or do you plan to make this a serious hobby in which you will invest time, study, and frequent practice? Do you want to dig in and really learn?
What type of photos will you be making?
Cameras don’t make photographs; photographers do. A camera is simply a tool a photographer uses to create a photograph.
In any endeavor, having the right tool for the job makes the work easier and gives improved results. So, when choosing the right camera for your photography, an essential question is, “What kind of photographs do I intend to make?”
I purposely use the word “make” rather than what many people say about “taking photos.” Snapshooters might take photos, seeing something of interest and quickly, without much thought, snapping a shot. Serious photographers, however, are craftspersons, thinking about composition, camera settings, and many other things involved in creating and “making” a photograph.
Whether you just want to take snapshots or make photographs will also influence what kind of equipment you should buy.
So what kind of photos do you want to make? What subject matter is your favorite?
I hear some saying, “I’d like to make all kinds of photos of whatever catches my eye.” So let’s ask the question this way: “What kind of photos do you envision making 80% of the time?” Photos of your kids as they grow up? Formal portraits? Landscapes? Vacation photos? Wildlife photos? There are hundreds of photo genres to explore and, while some camera and lens combinations might be able to handle a greater variety of these, expect to pay more for such photography equipment.
Specialized kinds of photography, such as bird or wildlife shooting where fast camera responsiveness and long lenses are required, will take more specialized gear. Perhaps you want to take photos of your kids playing soccer or engaging in other sports. You might consider an inexpensive point-and-shoot camera, but even if it does have a built-in 10x “superzoom,” will the lag-time between when you press the shutter and when it fires cause you to frequently miss the action? Will the tiny built-in flash have enough power to light your kid at the other end of the basketball court as he hits the winning shot at the buzzer?
Finding the balance between spending enough to have the most versatile equipment and yet not paying for things you will never or only rarely use can be hard. Back to the “80% factor” I mentioned: Buy the gear that will accommodate 80% of your needs. If you suddenly get to photograph that African safari and don’t have the equipment you need, then you can upgrade or, better yet, rent the equipment to handle that unique opportunity.
How will your photos be used?
Before digital photography and the internet, a photograph meant a print. Today, it’s becoming rarer and rarer to see printed photos. Some of these statistics are from 2017, so they’re already dated, but still amazing to consider:
An estimated 1.3 trillion photos are taken each year
75% of those photos are taken with cellphones
Less than 13% of photos are taken with dedicated digital cameras
Approximately 121.5 million digital cameras were sold in 2010; that dropped to 14.8 million in 2019
Over 1.3 trillion photos are being taken each year, the vast majority with cellphone cameras. Just a small percentage of those are printed. If you don’t plan to make prints, do you need a high-megapixel camera?
Do you wonder why companies such as Olympus have folded and even the largest digital camera makers are struggling? Sure, you’re reading this because you intend to continue pursuing digital photography, but the question I’m heading toward is, “What percentage of your images do you intend to print?”
Do you need a high-megapixel camera?
Top-end camera manufacturers like to boast about the high-megapixel cameras they are producing and, yes, these can produce some amazing images. Cameras from the top manufacturers now tout specs showing sensors between 40 and 60 megapixels (with prices to match).
The question is: If the vast majority of the images you shoot are only for display on your monitor or online, do you need such high megapixel counts? You can print a beautiful 300 DPI 16” x 20” print with a 4800 x 6000 pixel (28.8 MP) image.
At the time of writing, the Sony A7R IV is the highest megapixel full-frame camera, and it produces a 9504 x 6336 pixel (60.2 MP) image. Printing that at 300 DPI would give you a nice 20″ x 30″ print, and it would be quite easy to go far bigger than that.
On the other hand, if the largest you’d ever print is 8″ x 10″ (about an A4 size using European standards), a 7.2-megapixel image would be just fine. Most current smartphones produce higher resolution images than that.
If you do intend to make prints, think about how large you’d like to make them. My Canon Pixma Pro-100 can print up to 13″ x 19″. To print at 300 DPI, that means I need a 3900 x 5700 pixel image. My Canon 6D is a 20.2-megapixel camera with a maximum resolution of 5472 x 3648 pixels. 13” x 19” is about the maximum I can go with good quality. There are ways to go larger, but give consideration to your printing needs when purchasing a camera.
I don’t mean to confuse you with math. But I want you to ask yourself the question, “Do I expect to be printing my photos and, if so, how large might I print them?”
Do you need an expensive, full-frame, high-megapixel camera if all you’ll ever do is share your work on social media?
My first digital camera was the 1.2 MP Nikon Coolpix 950. I still have it.Here’s a slightly-cropped image from the Nikon Coolpix 950. The maximum resolution for that camera was 1600 x 1200 pixels, just enough to make a 4″ x 6″ print. If all I wanted to do was post images online or to social media, however, that still would be plenty of resolution. What you intend to do with your photos should be an important consideration when purchasing a camera.
The little Coolpix 950 excelled at macro shots.
Size, weight, and environmental factors
You’ve heard the saying, “The best camera is the one you have with you.” I suppose the corollary to that is, “The worst camera is the one you left at home” (or in your car, or anywhere that is not with you). If you buy a camera (and lenses, and tripods, and other equipment) that becomes a nuisance to bring along, or makes you wish it were smaller and lighter, you’ve probably bought the wrong gear.
Interestingly, many people believed the way to save on size and weight was to move to the latest mirrorless cameras. Yes, mirrorless cameras are marginally smaller and lighter, but lenses for them are not appreciably smaller and lighter. Many mirrorless cameras also draw more battery power, and so the weight saved with smaller equipment is offset by having to carry more batteries. About the only thing that has grown appreciably lighter are photographers’ wallets, because the new smaller, lighter cameras often carry a premium price.
Something else to be considered when shopping for photography equipment for beginners is where and how the camera and accessories will be used. If you’re taking a camera on vacation for travel photos, how much equipment do you want to pack and carry around all day? If you’re a backpacker or outdoorsman, do you want to take a tripod? An array of lenses? Might one of the more sophisticated bridge cameras be a better option for a travel camera?
Another consideration might be the operating environment in which you intend to make photos. If you will frequently be in dusty environments, you may not want a camera with interchangeable lenses. Maybe you frequently shoot in the wet, rain, snow, or in other inclement weather. If so, a camera that is weather-sealed might be worth considering.
Upgradability
If you intend to pursue photography for many years, you will want to give consideration to upgrading your equipment as you improve, as new innovations come along, as you diversify in your shooting, or even as equipment wears out.
Photographers who shoot with interchangeable lenses often find that they soon have more money invested in good lenses than their camera bodies. “Good glass” that can still be used when a camera body is replaced becomes a good investment. Because camera manufacturer lens mounts are usually proprietary to that brand, once you select a make and purchase a few lenses, you will likely want to stick with that manufacturer in the future, rather than sell off everything and start all over.
Once you start buying lenses and accessories, you will soon have invested more than the price of your camera body. Because each camera make typically has its own proprietary mount, picking and sticking with a camera brand makes upgrades less expensive. You’ll be reluctant to switch brands if it means selling off everything and starting over.
New, used, or refurbished?
Some people only want to buy new equipment and, if paying full-price for equipment to get factory-fresh gear with a full warranty is worth it to you, go for it.
But sometimes, when researching photography equipment for beginners, substantial savings can be had by buying well-cared-for, used equipment (with stress on well-cared-for). Here’s a good article from Jaymes Dempsey about considerations when buying used photo equipment, and here’s another by Tom Mason. I have had generally good experiences buying used equipment because I:
Buy from photographers I personally know who take good care of their gear, or
Buy from top resellers such as B&H, Adorama, KEH, and others that check and give their used equipment full inspections, ratings, and even limited warranties, or
Buy directly from manufacturers who service, inspect, sell, and warranty refurbished equipment.
Do you need the “latest and greatest” as a beginner? Do you need new equipment, or might a slightly used and well-cared-for earlier model save you some money and be more than adequate for you?
Excellent savings can often be had by purchasing used when new equipment is just coming out. Photographers with GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) just have to have the latest, greatest thing. Many of these shooters, eager to trade up, are willing to sell their slightly used equipment for bargain prices.
Now, as a beginning photographer, you don’t need the newest cutting-edge equipment, because you likely still have to master the basics. If last year’s top (and now slightly used) camera can be had, helps you learn the basics, allows you to better understand your needs, and fits the bill at a reduced price, so what if you only have it a short while before you upgrade?
Who to purchase from?
Some good advice about buying photo equipment (or anything else for that matter) is the Latin phrase caveat emptor. You likely know that means let the buyer beware.
It used to be that you could walk into a camera store and deal face-to-face with the store owner or at least a salesperson. Even then, you always had to be wary of the unscrupulous salesperson who, once you were pegged as a beginner without much knowledge, would try to upsell you into purchasing far more gear (or more expensive gear) than you really needed. You hoped instead that you’d get a dealer who really wanted to understand your needs and outfit you with the best equipment suited to your budget and needs. This second type of dealer would ask the kinds of questions we’re exploring here, knowing that a satisfied customer would tell others of their good experience and thus bring in more business.
Sadly, these kinds of brick-and-mortar camera stores are becoming rare (the last dealer in my town closed shop about a month ago after 74 years in the photo business). That doesn’t mean there aren’t reputable online dealers who offer good customer service on photo equipment. You just have to do your research. Talk to experienced photographers and ask them where they buy their equipment, who gives good deals, who provides good advice and service, and who honors warranties.
Idaho Camera had been the camera store in my town for 74 years. They closed permanently this past month, a victim of changing economic times, competition with online dealers and, finally, the Covid-19 crisis.
Always be cautious of dealers who have questionable reputations and, even more so, offer deals that are too-good-to-be-true. Often photo equipment manufacturers will require all dealers to offer their equipment at the same price, and so where you shop won’t change the price. Some dealers will thus come up with their own incentives and offer packages of accessories they throw in to sweeten the deal. Look carefully at whether this is really worthwhile. You might get a cheap cleaning kit, a worse-than-nothing tripod, or a shoddy camera bag, stuff that’s not worth it if it tempts you to do business with a shady dealer.
Also, beware of the dealer who tries high-pressure tactics to get you to add on stuff you didn’t initially intend to buy or a questionable “extended warranty.” And beware of “gray market” equipment, which most manufacturers won’t warranty at all.
Using online buying guides
I have refrained from suggesting any specific makes or models targeted as specific photography equipment for beginners. If, after asking yourself the questions I’ve outlined, you think you’re ready to begin looking at specific gear, there are some great places to check out.
Here on the Digital Photography School (dPS) site, check out the Cameras & Equipment section.
Check out the Cameras & Equipment section here on dPS for good information and reviews of photo equipment.
Another place I particularly like is the Digital Photography Review site (DPReview.com) and their Buying Guides section. The Cameras by Use Case pages are great for helping suggest makes and models based on how you intend to use your camera.
I’ve primarily discussed cameras, but if you’re shopping for tripods, lighting equipment, or any other kind of photo accessories, places such as dPS and DPReview offer a wealth of information. There are also forums where you can learn from other photographers about the ins-and-outs of specific gear.
Do be cautious, however. Fanboys and trolls like to hang out in places like that, so don’t just go with the first opinion you read.
The Digital Photography Review site. Cameras by Use Case is great for helping you explore photography equipment for beginners and is specifically geared toward how you intend to use your equipment.
Photography equipment for beginners: The questions to ask
I’ve thrown out a lot of stuff here, so let’s summarize with a list of questions to ask yourself:
What are my needs for a camera (or other photo gear)?
How much do I know about photography?
How serious do I intend to get? Will I pursue learning opportunities?
How often will I use this equipment?
What kind of photos will I be making (use the 80% rule)?
Do I want to specialize in a particular photo genre/subject?
How will I use my photos? (Online? Print? Sell?)
How much resolution (megapixels) do I need?
Is size/weight an important factor?
Where will I use my gear (environmental factors)?
Do I plan to upgrade, add lenses, and add accessories?
Do I want new gear, or might I consider used or refurbished equipment?
Who should I buy from? A store, an online dealer, or a private individual?
Have I done research (via buying guides, and/or discussions with trusted photographers)?
Here, take my money! I guess if money is no object, you might just buy what someone else tells you is the “best.” But, for most of us, research will help you get what you need, and what will be the best tool for the job at the best price.
Now take my money
Some people aren’t much for researching purchases and simply want someone to tell them what to buy. It’s easy to find salespeople perfectly willing to tell you what you “need” and take your money.
I suspect that, if you’ve read this article, you are not one of those people.
So, in writing this guide to photography equipment for beginners, my aim is not to tell you what to buy, but rather to have you ask yourself the right questions. If you do that, you can best make a wise purchase and get the photo tools that best suit your task.
The ultimate objective is that you learn and grow as a photographer, enjoy photography, and make increasingly better photographs. Best wishes!
The post Photography Equipment for Beginners: What to Buy When Starting Out appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
The breathtaking landscape before you is just begging to be photographed. The only problem is that you don’t know how to do it. You try taking a few images, but upon reviewing them your disappointment sinks in. They don’t hold a candle to the real thing — and they certainly don’t look like those gorgeous landscape images that show up Continue Reading
The post Landscape Photography: Complete Guide for Beginners; Equipment, Settings, and Tricks appeared first on Photodoto.
The post Getting Started with Off-Camera Flash in Photography: Equipment appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.
When you are just getting started with it, off-camera flash in photography can feel incredibly difficult. You then look at all the amazing work of others and begin to wonder why your photos never look like that.
In this short series, we will look at getting you started with off-camera flash. We’ll take you from a complete novice through to someone who will feel confident and able to get the most out of their flash.
Let’s start with the things that I will cover in this series:
How off-camera flash works
What gear you will need
The technical bit
Using modifiers
Adding more flashes.
Off-Camera flash in photography is something that can take your portraits to the next level. It is also not as scary as you might think.
The Gear
If you are getting into off-camera flash, you have several options. Some of you may have a flash for use on-camera, some of you may not. For this article, I will go through what you need.
If you are looking for a shopping list, it is as follows:
A flash
Flash triggers
A flash stand
Umbrella bracket
A flash modifier
I will then suggest a setup for those on a budget and a setup for those with a little more cash to spare.
As with all recommendations for gear, I am not paid by any brand to push their gear (I should really push this out with a plug shouldn’t I? hit me up camera companies!!) And they are my opinions, so please let’s not argue about this in the comments guys.
Right, Let’s go through each item one by one.
A Flash
The Vivitar 285Hv, AKA “The Tank.” Smashed, missing pieces and hit by skateboards. It still works fine. I even replaced the flash foot with a metal one when I snapped it.
This can be any flash. You can use an old manual flash bought for under $ 20 on eBay, through to the latest and greatest speedlite from your camera company, which will cost you over $ 400. Going even further, you could get a battery-powered studio strobe. What you need or want will depend on your budget and your needs.
There will be very little difference in these in terms of light quality. The difference will be in the ease of use and the power of the light.
The temptation may be to go with the same brand as your camera, but in all honesty, you can get much better value for money.
Now at the budget end, you can still get great mileage out of an old, fully-manual flash like the Vivitar 285. This flash is an ugly beast of a thing that is full manual. It doesn’t even have an LCD screen.
However, it is built like a tank, and you can buy it for around $ 20 to $ 30 on eBay. You can also get old flashes by Canon and Nikon for a little more. Remember, when using manual flash, you do not need to worry about which brand you are using. You can just as easily use a Canon flash on a Nikon camera and vice versa.
If you have more money to spend, then you really cannot look at flash these days without looking at the Godox brand. Godox produces a great range of flashes in all shapes and sizes. They also come with triggers built-in. This means you only need to buy a trigger for your camera and you are good to go.
By going with something like the Godox system, you also have the luxury of being able to change your flash power from the camera. This makes the process a lot easier, but it does come at a cost.
If you are buying a new flash from Godox or similar, make sure you invest in the flash specific to your camera brand.
A great mid-range flash would be the Godox 860II. This flash has Godox’s wireless system built-in and uses a Li-ion battery and recycles quickly even at full power. You also get a huge amount of flashes per charge (over 500) that will last even the most eager photographer for a full day of shooting.
From here, you can get bigger options with more power, but my honest recommendation is that, when starting out, you generally won’t really take advantage of what these units offer. Save your money and then invest in these later as you need them and, more importantly, once you know why.
Two of the most popular flash triggers made by Godox. they are rebadged under several names. In this case, PixaPro.
Flash triggers
Okay, you have the flash, now you need to trigger them.
Flash triggers come in many varieties. From a super simple trigger and receiver, through to a controller with an LED screen that allows you to see exactly what setting your flash is on and change them remotely.
What you need here depends on the type of flash you have (or purchase). For the budget option – old school flash with no built-in trigger – we will stick with the basic, but functional, option.
You can get a set comprising of a receiver and two triggers for around $ 20. They are as basic as they sound; however, they generally do the job and are pretty reliable. There is no screen, and from past experience, you may need to carry both triggers even when using one flash as they can occasionally be temperamental. There is no control of the flash at all. If you need to change your flash power, you need to go to your flash and change it by hand. It does the job and does it well without any bells or whistles.
Stepping up, look at the Godox trigger.
When you add the Godox trigger to a Godox flash, you can change the power remotely, and as you get more advanced, you get to do other things such as change groups, and high-speed sync. Basically, this trigger will allow you complete control of your flash from wherever you are shooting.
You will expect to pay around $ 50 and up for the trigger. You won’t need a receiver in this setup as the flash has one built-in (one less thing to forget to put into your bag). Overall, you get much more control here.
The more you invest in a trigger system, the more reliable it will be. For an amateur, this isn’t a huge issue, but if you are doing paid work, it really is worth investing in a decent set of flash triggers.
Flash stand
Unless you have an understanding friend or family member, you need a stand to put your flash on. If you are doing this on a budget and already have a tripod, you can use that as an interim measure, but flash stands are cheap. You can get a flash stand for $ 15 to $ 20. When stepping up in price, the main things you gain are better build quality, better quality knobs, and air cushioning.
Air cushioning means, if you undo the stand, the light doesn’t simply drop, it is cushioned by air, reducing the risk of damage to your flash. However, this is designed more for larger, studio-style flashes, so there is not a huge benefit in this for a speedlite-style flash, especially if you are looking to save money.
A flash stand by a company such as Manfrotto will cost you in the region of $ 80-$ 100. However, these are a purchase for life. Unless something major happens, a good-quality flash stand will last you for years and never need software updates.
Two different types of umbrella bracket. The metal cold shoe is the reason I had to put a new foot onto the Vivitar 285 you saw above.
Umbrella bracket
This is the key piece of equipment that allows you to fix your flash to your light stand. It also allows you to add modifiers to your flash, such as umbrellas and softboxes.
As with light stands above, the only difference with flash brackets is the build quality and the quality of the knobs.
A good umbrella bracket will cost around $ 20 to $ 30. I would suggest investing in this straight away. You can get cheaper, but not by much. It is worth the extra few dollars to buy a higher quality one.
A thing to remember here is that you may also need to buy a cold shoe for your umbrella bracket. This screws into the umbrella bracket via a spigot and has a shoe for your flash to mount to. These only run at a few dollars and some umbrella brackets have them built-in. Make sure you check and purchase as necessary as you may end up incredibly frustrated if your shiny new gear turns up, and you cannot connect your flash to your light stand. Trust me; I’m talking from experience here.
With a cold shoe, the main question is do you go for a metal or plastic one. Personally, I prefer plastic. The reason being that if your flash does happen to take a tumble and you are on a plastic cold shoe, it will usually snap. This may seem like a bad thing, but with a metal cold shoe, physics means it will snap at the weakest point. This is usually the base of the flashgun. Instead of snapping the cold shoe, you will snap the base of your flash off.
Now hopefully, your flashes never take a tumble, but I know mine definitely has. A gust of wind can come from nowhere. I have replaced several plastic cold shoes, but have luckily never snapped the base off a flashgun yet (touch wood, fingers crossed, etc.)
One of the first off-camera flash portraits I shot. Simple gear can create great results.
Modifiers
Softboxes, beauty dishes – there are many different modifiers, and the prices range from the insanely cheap through to the incredibly expensive.
I would always advise starting with umbrellas as a modifier as they are cheap, cheerful, and versatile. Also, learn one modifier inside and out before investing in more. When you know a modifier, you can use it in several ways and will allow you to create a variety of looks as you get used to working with it.
You can buy a 30” convertible umbrella for under $ 10 (you can shoot through it or shoot it reflectively). You will not get a better price-to-performance ratio from any other modifier.
It is tempting to buy a bucket load of modifiers if you have the money to invest, but what happens is, you become unfocused and try different modifiers, not really knowing the uses of each.
Buy one, learn it, then buy another. Don’t waste your money buying fancy gear just for the sake of it.
Extras
Please, please invest in (or make) a sandbag. A sandbag goes onto the bottom of your light stand and holds everything down, which means a minimal risk that your nice new equipment gets smashed on the floor.
You can make one of these incredibly cheaply, but they are worth their weight, literally. If you don’t have one (or have forgotten to get one), a camera bag will do in a pinch.
When using an umbrella outside, it is like having your flash gear attached to a kite. If you don’t weigh it down and the wind catches it, you may be picking your flash kit up in pieces.
Buy one and use it. If you don’t, don’t say I didn’t warn you.
So, how much are we talking about?
I have priced these beginner kits for those on a tight budget, and those with a bigger budget. Please note, I haven’t gone crazy with the larger budget. What you see here is what I truly believe to be the best beginner kit for getting started.
You will gain nothing from spending lots of money. The aim here is getting the gear to get started without over-complicating things.
The cheap and cheerful
This shot was taken on a setup almost identical to the one below.
Flash: Vivitar 285HV from eBay: $ 30
Triggers: Alzo Trigger Set $ 21 (There are several weird and wonderful companies producing this type of trigger, check Amazon/eBay for them.)
Flash Stand: $ 23
Umbrella Bracket: $ 10
Convertible Umbrella: $ 7.50
Sandbag: Use your camera bag
Total: $ 91.50
You read that right, $ 91.50. You can get started in off-camera flash for the price of a meal out.
A little to invest
This portrait was taken with only one light and a reflector. There is so much to learn when getting started in off-camera-flash photography that adding more lights will add problems.
Flash: Godox 860ii: $ 179
Trigger: Godox XPro C: $ 69
Air Cushioned Flash Stand: $ 29.65
Umbrella Bracket: $ 29.48 plus cold shoe $ 9.95
Convertible Umbrella: $ 7.47
Sandbag:$ 21.95
Total: $ 346.50
What do you get for the extra cash?
More control.
You can control the flash output directly from the camera plus advanced features such as add groups when you add more flashes in the future. You also get a flash that will take a lot more shots and recycle much quicker between photos. Lastly, if you don’t get on with off-camera flash, you have an awesome flash to use on your camera.
Right, so now you have your shopping list for off-camera flash in photography, next up comes the science part. I’ve just got to go out and get myself a new lab coat, so enjoy this article and see you next time.
Is there a set up that you use for off-camera flash in photography? Please share with us in the comments.
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The post Getting Started with Off-Camera Flash in Photography: Equipment appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.
The post 10 Great Pieces of Camera Equipment for the New Year appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
The equipment you use in photography can do much for the types of photos you create. The purchase of an additional lens can unlock new areas of photography for you that were otherwise not an option. There are lots of pieces of equipment you can buy for photography beyond the camera body and lens. In this article, you will learn how to accessorize your equipment. Interested in that? Read on and discover ten great pieces of camera equipment you could buy to boost your creativity!
LED light stick
There are many items you can use for light painting. A simple flashlight, your smartphone, or a glow stick, to name just a few.
A few years ago a new product entered the market though, and it’s changed the game. There are two companies you can look towards if you want to get hold of an LED light stick yourself. The choice of the product then is the pixelstick and the magilight.
These are both LED light sticks, and each product has its good and bad points. The bottom line is they both allow you to program light patterns that then transmit through a series of LED lights. They allow you absolute control of the light painting, and therefore give you maximum creativity!
An LED light stick can be a lot of fun to use.
A glass ball for camera equipment?
Yes, that’s right! Those who have read articles written by me for digital photography school will know I often use a crystal ball for my photography. The product has been rebranded in recent years, and in photography circles, it’s now known as the lensball.
This is a great piece of camera equipment, that’s relatively inexpensive. How many camera lenses have you bought for less than fifty dollars? That’s what this product represents – it’s like an external lens optic that you can place almost anywhere within your scene.
Are you looking to buy a lensball? You can do that from lens ball, or refractique. These are rival companies that offer a similar package, they’re more expensive than some others on amazon but come with better quality glass and other items that make the package better-suited for photographers.
A glass ball works just like an external lens, or put simply, a lensball.
Tripod
This item might just be the most creative item you’ll ever buy for your photography.
Other items you can buy will give you an extra option in your photography, a tripod, on the other hand, opens up a host of new ways for you to photograph.
Take a look at some of the photography techniques that need, or benefit from, having a tripod. Now it’s worth investing in a good tripod, one that’s sturdy enough that it doesn’t move during the exposure. If you’re traveling and want something smaller and less heavy, then the Gorillapod or a carbon fiber, lightweight tripod from K&F Concepts might be for you. See a reviews on the Gorillapod here and the K&F Concepts tripod here).
Light painting – The use of products such as an LED light stick for creating interesting light patterns in your photo requires a tripod because it’s a long exposure.
Long exposure – Lots of creative landscape photos use long exposure. This could be to flatten seawater, create silky white water at a waterfall, or to produce traffic light trails in a cityscape image.
Digital blending – While it’s possible to take a set of bracketed images with your camera handheld, it’s much better to use a tripod. Digital blending works best with a set of bracketed images of different exposure values.
Cloning – Set up your tripod and clone yourself or an inanimate object across the scene your camera is recording.
Infra-red – Unless you convert your camera to infra-red, you’ll need to use a filter for this form of photography. That will mean a long exposure.
Self-portraits – The next step up from the handheld selfie. Get your camera set up on a tripod, and properly place yourself within the scene!
Use a tripod and take multiple photos to clone yourself!
Filter set
Now, of course, this is more than one item! However, they’re so small, that for this article, I’ll treat them as one piece of camera equipment.
It could be said that in the days of post-processing the need for a bag of filters is not there anymore. You want to get your image as correct in-camera as you can, though, so having a handy set of filters to facilitate this is always good.
These are some of the filters you should consider.
Circular polarizing filter – A must for any outdoor photographer. Use a circular polarizing filter to increase the vibrancy of your scene, and to intensify or reduce reflections.
Graduated neutral density filter – Great for landscape photography, where you want to balance light in the foreground against light in the sky.
Neutral density filter – The weaker ND filters are often used with strobes to allow the use of higher apertures, while still keeping within the flash’s sync speed for shutter speed. The stronger ND filters allow you to practice long exposure photography during the day. This one by K&F Concepts is an adjustable 2-32 ND filer in one.
Infra-red filter – A fun niche area of landscape photography is infra-red. Using a filter allows you to take this type of photo without adapting your camera.
Colored filters – These can be used to add color to your sunsets, produce sepia photos, or to enhance your black and white photos.
UV filters – UV filters are essentially clear glass that absorbs the ultraviolet (UV) rays. While they can reduce the effect of haze, they’re mainly lens protection.
There are some filter sets available such as those by NISI.
Drone
The bird’s eye view provided by a drone is a great angle.
A drone is the ultimate new toy for any photographer!
The sky literally is the limit! The bird’s eye perspective you’ll be able to achieve will be unique.
Take care to learn how to fly these before attempting the more ambitious photos. This costs a lot of money if you lose it through the battery running out or losing its signal.
You’ll also find an increasing number of countries tightening up the certificates you need to fly them. In addition to this, you need to know where the no-fly zones are. These are typically around airports, but other sensitive locations can also restrict drone flights.
Which is the best drone out there? It’s really hard to look past the DJI Mavic drones; they’re very portable, which is a huge plus. Read some reviews on DJI’s drones here.
Reflector disc
Another small and inexpensive item that can add to your photography is a reflector disc.
You can use this to reflect sunlight onto your subject, or in conjunction with a strobe set up. These reflectors fold up into a small space in your bag, but then open up into a larger disc for maximum reflective effect.
They come in different sizes, and you can get rectangular or circular shaped discs. In addition to that, you can get silver, gold or white as a reflective surface that will make your subject warmer or cooler from the reflected light.
Rogue flashbender
There are quite a number of lighting modifiers you can use with a flash, the Rogue Flashbender Kit makes the list here for its versatility compared with other products.
The concept is fairly simple.
You attach the flashbender to your flash, and then use the white surface to bounce light onto your subject. The flashbender panel itself can be manipulated into various shapes, giving you the following options.
Bounce the light – The primary use of the flashbender is to aim the flash upwards, so you can bounce light off its white surface. This softens the light, giving you nicer light on your subject.
A softbox – Through buying an additional translucent panel that can be attached to the flashbender, you can soften the light even more.
A snoot – Shape the flashbender into a cylinder and wrap it around your flash to convert it into a snoot, now that’s versatility.
The full kit can give you even more options, such as using color gels to alter the color-tone of light.
Smartphone apps
While not physical pieces of gear, they’re just as important for the modern photographer. The information they can give you on-the-go is vital. There are many apps out there. Some are specifically about photography, while others are very helpful to photographers like weather apps.
Photographer’s ephemeris – Knowing where the sun is in relation to your main subject is very important. Get this planned ahead with the Photographer’s Ephemeris.
Snapseed – A nice app for editing your photos on the go.
Photoshop express – Everyone knows Photoshop, and with this app, you can edit your photos on a smartphone or tablet.
Windy – This is the best app out there for knowing weather conditions on the ground, and ahead of time.
Photopills – Like the ephemeris, Photopills gives you all the information you need to know on the celestial bodies in the sky. This also comes with information about the Milkyway, making it essential for astrophotography.
Camera+ 2 – The leading app for using your phone as a camera.
Lightbox
A lightbox is essential for any still life photography.
You’ll need some form of lighting to get the best results, with off-camera flash working best.
This piece of camera equipment will allow you to get the best product photos. You can also do some food photography with it. The aim of this is to get even light throughout your photo, with no strong shadows. It does this by bouncing light around the white surfaces that surround the box.
Product photography with a lightbox is better.
Business cards
Having a set of business cards that you can use to build up your contacts is just as important as any other gear you might have as a photographer.
There is nothing like those face-to-face meetings with people to gain potential business, whether that’s being hired or selling prints. These can be inexpensive, or you can go for the more designer business cards.
Moo – These are the best quality cards you can get. You can get your photos printed on the back, and each one can be a different photo. That means when someone takes your card, they’ll also be taking a look at a portfolio of your work!
Print shop – A cheaper option is to head to your local print shop. A lot of these will create a design for you, and may even print one of your photos on the back of the card.
Business cards made by Moo are of top quality.
Which camera equipment is for you?
There are many items you can buy for your photography.
Which item is for you?
Perhaps you’ll focus more on buying the right lens for your photography style. However, there are other items you can buy that will give your photography a creative boost.
Have you ever tried any of the items on this list, or are you tempted to buy one? As always at digital photography school, we love to see your comments in the comments section, together with any images you have.
The post 10 Great Pieces of Camera Equipment for the New Year appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.
The post Equipment Versus Photographer – Which Matters More? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Flatlay image: Jeff Hopper. Photographer image: Alexander Andrews
Equipment versus photographer, which matters more?
It’s a common question without an easy answer. It’s one that pretty much every photographer has asked themselves at one time or another.
In this article, I’m going to start by identifying the ways in which the equipment matters. And then I’m going to cover the ways in which the photographer matters.
Finally, I’ll address the main question:
Which is more important?
So let’s dive right in.
How does equipment change your photography?
Here’s the thing:
As much as photographers hate to admit it, equipment does matter.
If it didn’t, why would professional photographers spend $ 5000+ on a camera setup?
It’s not a question of whether equipment matters, it’s a question of how much it affects your photography.
So here’s a list of the key reasons equipment matters:
Why your equipment matters
Continuous shooting speeds
Cameras with high continuous shooting rates make it possible to capture amazing action photos without leaving much to chance. A camera that can shoot 12 frames-per-second is going to maximize your chances of getting a gorgeous image in the thick of the action.
Autofocus capabilities
Cameras with more autofocus points, greater autofocus coverage, better tracking, and better autofocus points (e.g., cross-type points) will make it easier to quickly lock focus on your subject and track them as they move. This is useful for any genre of photography that is fast-paced.
Ruggedness
Metal cameras with weather-sealing can handle much more difficult conditions than cameras made of non-weather sealed plastic. You can shoot for longer in the rain, snow, and freezing temperatures without your camera failing, which increases your chance of capturing a once-in-a-lifetime shot.
High-ISO capabilities
Cameras with the most advanced sensors are able to capture noise-free images when shooting at high ISOs. This makes shooting at night without a tripod a much more feasible option.
Resolution
The greater your camera’s megapixel count, the more you can crop your photos. This gives you additional flexibility in post-processing and helps you compensate for a shorter lens.
High dynamic range
Cameras with a high dynamic range maximize the amount of detail you capture in a scene. This gives you more latitude when selecting an exposure. It also allows you to photography high dynamic range scenes without resorting to HDR techniques.
Accurate previews
Mirrorless cameras with high-quality electronic viewfinders (EVFs) give you fairly accurate previews of your images before you press the shutter button. This allows you to get your exposure and depth of field correct, right from the beginning.
Size and weight
Smaller and lighter cameras are easier to carry on long treks and on travel expeditions. And the easier your camera is to carry, the more likely you are to have it with you when a once-in-a-lifetime scene happens right before your eyes.
Image stabilization
Cameras and lenses with some form of image stabilization make it possible to handhold at low shutter speeds. This increases your shooting opportunities in low light and allows you to increase your depth of field during the day.
Optical quality
Higher-quality lenses are sharper and have fewer problems (such as color fringing and distortion). This makes it possible to get tack-sharp shots that look great straight out of the camera.
Focal length
Lenses with different focal lengths allow you to capture different types of shots. If you want to capture sweeping landscape images, you’ll want an ultra-wide lens on hand. If you want to capture a detail shot of a perching eagle, you’ll want a 500mm or 600mm lens. Therefore, different lenses give you different photo opportunities.
How do you, the photographer, change your photography?
Now that we’ve covered the ways in which equipment affects your photography, it’s time to talk about you, the photographer.
What impact do you have in the photo-making process? How do you make a difference in your photography?
Why you matter
Focusing skills
Even if you have the best autofocus system in the world, it won’t matter if you don’t have the capabilities to use it. It takes serious skill to track fast-moving subjects, and it’s something that takes lots of practice to master. If you want to capture gorgeous action shots, you can’t just press the shutter and hope for the best. The autofocus system is part of the equation, but so are you.
Handholding skills
Your ability to handhold is often the difference between a sharp photo and a blurry photo. You’ve often got to keep your hands steady while in the thick of the action, never an easy task. Image stabilization helps, but if your technique isn’t sound, you’ll end up with blurry photos anyway.
Exposure skills
Cameras are pretty good at identifying the right exposure for the scene. But there are plenty of times when the camera’s choice just doesn’t look good. That’s when you have to step in, as the photographer, and take control of your camera’s exposure.
Working with light
As great as modern cameras are, they still can’t tell you how to find good light, and they definitely can’t tell you how to use the light for great shots. That’s all up to you, and it’s something that photographers spend their whole lives studying. Expertly used light can be the sole difference between an amazing photo and a mediocre photo.
Compositional skills
I’m putting this under a single header, but it’s a big one. Composition isn’t something that’s innate, and it’s definitely not something that your camera can control. It’s something that you learn through practice and hard work. And if you don’t bring composition skills to your photography, it’s going to look plain bad. There’s no way around it.
Working with aperture
Choosing a composition is a skill. It’s also a skill to be able to pull off that composition – to be able to use camera settings to your advantage. That’s where you have to leverage your knowledge to choose the aperture and shutter speed you need to capture the perfect shot.
Post-processing skills
This is another huge factor as post-processing skills allow you to take a shot and really turn it into something incredible. Post-processing is how you put the finishing touches on your photos, and it’s how you give your photos that professional flair.
Equipment versus photographer. And the winner is…?
Now that you’ve read this far, you and I can surely agree that both the equipment and the photographer matters.
However, if you look over the two lists, you’ll notice that there are certain aspects of photography that the gear can barely contribute to such as working with light, choosing a composition, putting the final touches on a photo in post-processing, and more.
These are huge aspects of being a photographer. If you can’t do these things, your images will be consistently poor. There’s no other way to say it.
But if you can do these things well, you’ll get amazing photos. Yes, high-quality gear will help. It will increase your chances of getting beautiful shots – if you’re already very skilled. However, while the equipment is important, gear will never get you an amazing photo. At best, gear will get you ultra-sharp, well-exposed, in-focus snapshots – and that’s all. At worst, gear will get you blurry, poorly-exposed images.
In other words, you don’t need incredible gear to get incredible photos. But you do need to be an incredible photographer to get incredible photos.
So…
Which is more important, the equipment or the photographer?
The photographer.
No doubt about it.
What are your thoughts on equipment versus photographer? Do you agree that the photographer matters more than the equipment? Share your thoughts in the comments!
The post Equipment Versus Photographer – Which Matters More? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.
Film, photography and production equipment rental marketplace ShareGrid has introduced a $ 20,000 owner’s guarantee that covers all equipment against damage, theft, loss and fraud, including voluntary parting (theft by the renter).
‘Our goal has always been to make ShareGrid the safest way to rent your equipment to other people, and today we’re excited to offer even more protection to our users’ said Marius Ciocirlan, co-founder and CEO of ShareGrid. ‘For years, we’ve been the only marketplace to offer instant coverage against Voluntary Parting. With the ShareGrid Owner Guarantee, we’re taking this a step further and including protection against voluntary parting automatically. Best of all, it’s completely free for all our members.’
‘Voluntary parting’ or theft by the renter is typically not covered in the rental industry but is luckily also extremely rare. ShareGrid says only one in 10,000 rental transactions are affected, thanks to heavy investment in security technology and personnel. At 0.02 percent ShareGrid competitor KitSplit’s voluntary parting rate is double that of ShareGrid’s but still very low in absolute terms.
ShareGrid’s Owner Guarantee offers protection for all rentals of equipment up to $ 20,000 in value and is included automatically. Terms are very similar to KitSplit’s equivalent policy but ShareGrid does not have the latter’s 20 percent deductible, making it the slightly more attractive offer.
The post Equipment and Camera Settings You’ll Need for Better Moon Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.
Super Moon, Oxford, England
As the brightest object in the night sky, the Moon has captivated people around the world for centuries. The Moon is simply fascinating, particularly with the recent 50th anniversary of the first humans landing on the Moon. It is also one of the most incredible subjects to learn to photograph. Everyone loves to observe the Moon, but have you ever looked up to the sky at night and thought, “how can I capture this magnificent phenomenon?” Well, as photographing the Moon can be a challenging undertaking, I have highlighted some information about the Moon and recommendations regarding equipment and camera settings you’ll need to consider to achieve better moon photography.
It is initially worth considering what the Moon actually is. Well, in general, the term “moon” denotes an object that orbits something other than the star in a solar system. Earth’s Moon is an astronomical body that orbits the planet and acts as its only permanent natural satellite, orbiting the Earth every 27.3 days. It is the fifth-largest Moon in the Solar System and is an average of 384403 kilometers (238857 miles) from Earth.
When you look up at the night sky to view the peaceful and tranquil Moon, you might notice that the Moon looks a little different each night. This is due to our Moon’s many phases and types.
Phases of the moon
Partial lunar eclipse, England
The amount of sunlight that reflects on the Moon’s surface that we can see from our point of view on Earth varies every day, and this is what we refer to as a Moon phase.
Moon phases change during the lunar month from a New Moon (which occurs the moment the Sun and Moon are aligned, with the Sun and Earth on opposite sides of the Moon) to a Waxing Crescent moon (when a thin sliver of the Moon becomes visible after a New Moon), First Quarter Moon (the moment the Moon has reached the first quarter of its orbit around Earth), Waxing Gibbous Moon, Full Moon, Waning Gibbous Moon, Third Quarter Moon and Waning Crescent Moon.
Different types of full moons
Super Blue Blood Moon, Oxford
A full moon occurs when the side of the Moon facing Earth is fully lit up by the Sun. There are several types of unusual full moons that look different in color and size due to its position to the Sun and Earth. These include blood moons (that appears reddish and occur during a total lunar eclipse, when Earth lines up between the Moon and the Sun); Supermoons (a moon that appears larger because it is closer to Earth), Blue Moons (the “extra” Moon in a season with four Full Moons or the second Full Moon in a calendar month) and Harvest Moons (the full, bright Moon that occurs closest to the start of Autumn), for example.
The equipment
When photographing the full moon or different phases of the moon, you will need some essential pieces of equipment. I recommend you use a tripod for stability. Whilst you may get away with hand-holding your camera, you will get better results by mounting your camera on a tripod and avoiding camera shake. In addition, a remote shutter release cable is a useful bit of kit to help prevent camera shake. It is not essential as you can use your cameras self-timer function.
Which lens to use
Moon over the landscape, Dartmoor, England
The type of lens you use largely depends on whether you would like to capture the moon in the landscape, or as a detailed close-up. Wide-angle lenses are great to photograph the moon as it moves over an interesting landscape. Alternatively, a telephoto lens is a great choice for getting closer to the moon to reveal its surface details. Consider using a long focal length lens with a range of 300-400mm.
Which camera settings to use
Moonrise, England
Once you have chosen a lens and set your camera on a tripod, you will need to select your settings. Firstly, I would recommend setting your ISO to 100 to prevent noise and grain in your images. Next, select an aperture in the region of f/8 – f/16 to achieve clearer and cleaner shots. In terms of shutter speed, 1/60th to 1/125th should be a great starting point.
Focus on the moon
Moon and sky, England
When you have applied the settings, all you now need to do is set the focus of your camera. I like to use my cameras manual focus to focus on the Moon. Once the focusing distance to the Moon looks sharp using manual focus, you are ready to shoot the Moon.
In my experience, manual focus works better than autofocus as the Moon’s surface is sometimes too dark to be recognized by the camera’s autofocus and I find manual focus to be more reliable in obtaining sharper shots in low light. By using manual focus, if you’re camera settings aren’t spot-on for any reason, you will still have reasonably sharp photos that you can recover in your editing software.
If you apply all of these tips, you’ll achieve better Moon photography and be equipped to photograph the Moon at the best time.
Conclusion
In summary, photographing the Moon is one of the most enjoyable subjects any photographer can learn. To achieve better photos of the different phases and types of the Moon, be sure to use a tripod. Also, consider a remote cable release, choose a wide-angle or telephoto lens, get your settings right, and focus your camera on the Moon manually.
Do you have any other tips for better Moon photography? Alternatively, share your pictures of the Earth’s natural satellite or the Moon shining brightly over your chosen scene with us below.
The post Equipment and Camera Settings You’ll Need for Better Moon Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.
Photography is a very appealing hobby and many people will be tempted to capture their holidays and all the places they’ve visited. This is one of the best opportunities to bring your camera underwater and do some unique photography with amazing results. With underwater equipment, you can capture reefs, go snorkeling, get pictures of fish, capture shipwrecks, and so on. Continue Reading
The post What is the Essential Underwater Photography Equipment for Beginners? appeared first on Photodoto.
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