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Posts Tagged ‘Eclipse’

NatGeo and Airbnb will send two people to view the eclipse from a private jet

08 Aug

Two lucky people will get to view the August 21st solar eclipse from a private jet above the clouds thanks to Airbnb and National Geographic, proceeded by a night in a geodesic dome in the Oregon wilderness. The experience is being offered by the two companies in the form of a contest, which you can enter now on Airbnb’s website. Those who go on the private flight will be among the first to see the solar eclipse.

According to Airbnb, the night before the eclipse will be spent in the geodesic dome located near hiking and rock-climbing destination Smith Rock in the Oregon wilderness. The duo will be accompanied by Yale University astrophysicist Dr. Jedidah Isler and National Geographic photographer and science journalist Babak Tafreshi.

An observation deck on the dome includes multiple telescopes, and as you gaze at the heavens Isler will answer questions related to astrophysics while Tafreshi teaches you how to photograph the night sky… not bad. But that’s not the best part.

On August 21st, the two winners, Isler, and a crew will take off from the Redmond Municipal Airport and fly two hours west, at which point the flight will turn around and head back toward land along the Path of Totality, giving everyone onboard an extended, unique view of the total solar eclipse.

Anyone 21 years old or older from the U.S. or Canada can enter the contest. Winners will need to travel to Seattle, Washington on August 20, and must have passports that are valid for at least six months following the date of the adventure. The full list of rules and conditions are listed on Airbnb’s website.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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NASA will chase the August eclipse in jets to capture ‘clearest images of the corona to date’

03 Aug

It doesn’t matter where you’ll be during the August 21st solar eclipse, NASA plans to one-up you and capture a better photo—or at least a unique one. The space agency is actually going to chase the eclipse’s totality in two highly modified 1950s-vintage WB-57F jets, in order to capture the ‘clearest image of the sun’s […] corona to date,’ and the first-ever thermal images of Mercury.

The whole plan is detailed in the short video above, although we have to warn you, it might make you feel a little bit of gear envy—”if only I’d bought that Air Force surplus reconnaissance plane…”

Joking aside, the August 21st eclipse is a brilliant research opportunity, and NASA doesn’t plan to let it slip by unused. The two WB-57F jets have each been retrofitted with twin telescopes mounted on their noses. Using these telescopes, Amir Caspi of the Southwest Research Institute in Boulder, Colorado plans to capture “the clearest images of the Sun’s outer atmosphere — the corona — to date and the first-ever thermal images of Mercury.”

One of the WB-57F jets is readied for a test run at NASA’s Johnson Space Center in Houston. The instruments are mounted under the silver casing on the nose of the plane. Photo: NASA’s Johnson Space Center/Norah Moran

According to NASA, the jets will capture high-definition pictures at 30fps during the entire eclipse totality—which will last three times longer as the jets speed along, staying inside the moon’s shadow—from the stratosphere, avoiding interference from most of the Earths atmosphere. These photos will then be analyzed to determine why the sun’s atmosphere is so hot (millions of degrees), when the visible surface of the sun is significantly cooler (a few thousand degrees).

Before and after these observations, the scientists will also use the jets to try and capture the first-ever thermal images of Mercury—”the first attempt to map the variation of temperature across the surface of the planet.”

To find out more about this fascinating scientific (and photographic) mission, check out the video at the top or head over to the NASA website for a more detailed breakdown of what they’re looking to capture and why.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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This is the first photo of a total solar eclipse ever taken, shot in 1851

01 Aug
The first successfully captured photograph of a total solar eclipse, this daguerreotype was shot on July 28, 1851, by Prussian photographer Johann Julius Friedrich Berkowski.

Here’s a little history lesson to help you pass the time between now and the next total solar eclipse on August 21st. The photograph above, a daguerreotype captured almost exactly 166 years ago, is the first successfully-captured photograph of a total solar eclipse.

The photo was captured by master daguerreotypist Johann Julius Friedrich Berkowski, a Prussian photographer who was commissioned by the Royal Prussian Observatory at Königsberg to do what nobody else had managed up until that point: capture an appropriately-exposed photograph of a total solar eclipse.

Up until that point, every photograph taken had been over or under-exposed, and/or didn’t capture sufficient contrast between the bright corona and the obscuring disk of the moon.

According to a paper in the journal Acta Historica Astronomiae, the photograph was captured using a small refracting telescope attached to the hour drive of the 15.8-cm Fraunhofer heliometer. Berkowski began exposing the image shortly after totality, and the final daguerreotype took 84-seconds to capture.

To learn more about this photograph, click here. And if you want to learn how to capture the August 21st eclipse for yourself (and why you should maybe put the camera down for this one…) check out our own eclipse how-to.

How to photograph the August eclipse, and why you probably shouldn’t try.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to photograph the August eclipse, and why you probably shouldn’t try

23 Jul

Essentially, it’s the ultimate photo challenge. On August 21st, photographers across the continental United States – and especially photographers within a 70-mile-wide band stretching from Oregon to South Carolina – will have no more than 160 seconds to get the shot of a lifetime.

Starting around 9am PT, the moon will pass in front of the sun, and a large swath of North America will be treated to a total eclipse. And if you ask anybody who knows anything about astronomy, it is a huge deal. Dr. Tyler Nordgren is such a man. He’s a professor of physics and astronomy, an award-winning photographer and a self-described Night Sky Ambassador. Here’s how he puts it:

“Half the people that are alive right now weren’t even alive the last time something like this was visible from the continental US. Secondly, there are 12 million people just living in the path of totality that are going to get the chance to see it, so it will be the most-viewed total solar eclipse probably in history.”

The most seen, most photographed, most shared, most tweeted – potentially the most people in total are going to be able to experience this in one form or another

Given that just about everyone in its path will have a camera in their pocket, he says it’s also likely to be the most photographed in history.

“The most seen, most photographed, most shared, most tweeted – potentially the most people in total are going to be able to experience this in one form or another.”

Hungary – My first eclipse photo that I took in 1999 superimposed on the stamp I bought there comemorating the eclipse by showing its path across the country. Photo and caption by Tyler Nordgren

But unless you’re a seasoned landscape photographer or astrophotographer, Dr. Nordgren thinks you might be better off not photographing it at all and just enjoying the view. He quotes Warren De la Rue, a pioneer of astrophotography. After becoming the first person to photograph a total eclipse “he wrote in his journal afterwards, that if he ever got the chance to see another one, he hoped to be able to see it without any equipment at all.”

In short, “See your first eclipse, photograph your second.” But if you’re unconvinced, Dr. Nordgren does have some advice.

Get ready

Preparation is key. Remember – 160 seconds. Of course, you’ll want a tripod and a cable release to lock everything down and minimize shake.

“If you really must photograph this, you’re going to want to practice a whole bunch of techniques in the weeks leading up so it’s as second nature as absolutely possible during those precious seconds.”

Protecting your eyesight and your gear is equally important. It’s only safe to point your eyes or your camera sensor directly at the sun during totality – a little bit before or after and you’re risking serious damage. He suggests a pair of solar eclipse glasses and a filter for your lens. Per NASA, your glasses should meet the ISO 12312-2 international standard.

Be sure to use both during partial phases of the eclipse – you risk damaging your eyesight, not to mention your camera, with just a pair of glasses and an unfiltered lens. Crucially, don’t forget to take off the filter during totality. You’ll be extremely disappointed with the results if you don’t.

Lensrentals recently posted a useful article detailing some specific settings to dial in if you plan on using a longer lens.

Pick a lens

What kind of lens should you use? Well, not surprisingly, it all depends on what you’re going for. If you want the sun as your main subject, you’ll obviously want a longer lens. “To really capture big detail in the corona and the object itself, you’ll want a lens with a focal length of around 500mm; between 400 and 600mm at least.”

But don’t forget that a total eclipse also presents a unique landscape photo opportunity. If you’d rather capture the eerie effect on the scene, a wider lens will produce excellent results too. It’s all a matter of personal preference.

Star Flyer – the 2013 eclipse as seen from the deck of a four-masted sailing ship racing across the Atlantic. Totality was 42 seconds long and I was on a quickly moving (and rocking) surface. Photo and caption by Tyler Nordgren

No matter what kind of shot you’re going for, you can size things up ahead of time by photographing a full moon.

“Something to keep in mind is that during totality the sun turns black, and is surrounded by this ghostly corona, so the spectacle of the object itself is this black disk with this white glow around it. That black disk is the size of the full moon, so take whatever your camera equipment is, take whatever your lens is and go out and photograph the next full moon. See if whatever size dot that appears. If that’s interesting to you, then great – that’s the lens to use.”

Get thee to the path of totality

If you’re set on photographing the eclipse and have the safety and gear requirements nailed down, all that’s left to do is get yourself into the path of totality for the big moment. Easy enough, right? Well, unless you’re lucky enough to live there, or you started planning your eclipse vacation years ago, chances are extremely slim that you’ll be able to find a campsite or hotel room in the path at this point. Your best bet is to find accommodations within a reasonable driving distance and set out as early as possible.

Ideally, you also want to aim for somewhere that’s less likely to have cloud cover. Dr. Nordgren knows all too well what a cloudy eclipse view looks like.

“If you’re going to do the close up photograph, you could be almost anywhere provided you’ve got clear skies. But I’ve also seen some really spectacular photos of totality through wispy clouds that give this dramatic view as well… just as long as you’re within that path of totality and the cloud cover is not so total that you’re utterly blacked out. And I’ve had that happen.”

This is the partial phase just a minute or two before totality in the Faroe Islands. Those clouds totally socked us all in 30 seconds before totality so we saw nothing. Photo and caption by Tyler Nordgren

If you’re hoping to get a wider shot, then great news: this eclipse will cross some of the most beautiful locations in the continental US. Provided you can get there, you can pretty much take your pick of landscapes. “What do you find compelling? Is it a hardwood forest like the Great Smoky Mountains, is it the big jagged peaks of the wind river range in Wyoming? Or being along the Oregon coast? It’s up to the photographer.”

And really, that’s what makes this such an incredible event.

“Everywhere from rocky shorelines in Oregon to snowcapped volcanic peaks in the Cascade range, to the deserts of Idaho and the mountains of Wyoming, the farmlands of Nebraska, the hardwood forests and the Mississippi river… you really have the entire breadth, literally, of the United States of America to capture this in.”

160 seconds – that is not a lot of time to see what I think is the most awe-inspiring, unnatural, natural experience in nature

Whether or not you can get to the path of totality, and whether or not you choose to photograph the event, you’ll still be treated to an amazing array of photos and videos from photographers across the US. And unless you’re dead set on photographing it, consider leaving the camera at home.

“If you haven’t seen a total solar eclipse, I encourage you, don’t waste your time photographing it. Chances are, somebody else will get a better photo. But if you are that kind of expert photographer, practice so that you can set your camera up and let it do its thing with as little input as possible, because 160 seconds – that is not a lot of time to see what I think is the most awe-inspiring, unnatural, natural experience in nature.”

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse

18 Jul

On the afternoon of August 21, 2017, an event will take place in the United States that has not happened in almost 100 years. A total solar eclipse will be visible for a huge swath of the mainland population. While total solar eclipses aren’t an entirely uncommon phenomenon, it is highly irregular for one to be seen by such a large portion of the country and it won’t happen again anytime soon.

How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse

Image via Wikimedia Commons

In 2019 a total eclipse will be viewable for people in Chile, Argentina, and Uraguay and after that, the next one will not happen until June of 2020 which will be visible for a large chunk of Africa and southern Asia. This means that anyone who wants to get some good photographs of the upcoming event will need to spend time preparing, getting some essential gear, or even traveling to the USA if you live in another country.

Fortunately, you don’t need to spend thousands of dollars to get a good shot of the eclipse. This guide is designed to give you a good idea of what you will need without breaking the bank.

What is a solar eclipse?

To understand a bit about photographing a solar eclipse, it’s important to know just what it is you will be looking at on the afternoon of August 21st.

The moon orbits the earth once every 28 days, but the plane of the moon’s orbit is not quite even with the plane of earth’s orbit around the sun. Because of this disparity, the moon does not usually block out our view of the sun, except for once every few years. If the earth gets between the sun and the moon it’s called a lunar eclipse, but if the moon scoots between the earth and the sun it results in a solar eclipse which is rarer and, in my opinion, more spectacular to watch.

The fun part happens when you are lucky enough to be in the path of totality, which is where you will experience a complete blackout of the sun during the middle of the day. Keep reading to find out what gear you will need to photograph the eclipse, and how to locate the path of totality so you know where to be on this eventful day.

How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse - diagram

A solar eclipse happens when the moon passes directly between the sun and the earth. This diagram is most definitely NOT to scale.

How can I see the eclipse?

The most important thing to remember when viewing the eclipse of 2017, or any solar eclipse, is that you do not want to look directly at it unless you are in the path of totality – that is, unless the moon is completely covering the sun.

I need to make this abundantly clear: do not look at the solar eclipse with your naked eyes!!

Even if most of the sun is covered up by the moon, the light streaming out will be much too bright for your eyes to handle. NASA’s website has more detailed information, but suffice it to say if you want to watch the eclipse unfold in real time you will need something to protect your eyes like these solar eclipse glasses or a strong piece of welding glass. Sunglasses are far too weak to be effective and don’t ever just try to squint.

Protect your eyes properly, they’re the only ones you’ve got.

How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse - photo

Image via Wikimedia Commons

How do I take pictures of the eclipse?

Here’s where things get a little tricky since you will probably need to spend a bit of money, though hopefully not as much as you think. If you want to get the kind of close-up images you’ve already seen in this article, you will need the following camera gear:

  • A zoom lens, preferably one that has a focal length of at least 400mm.
  • A solar filter to protect your lens and camera.
  • Solar glasses so you can watch the eclipse unfold as it happens.
  • A tripod to hold your camera steady.
  • A place to view the eclipse, free of obstructions.

Here’s a bit more information about each of those so you can make sure to get the best photos possible.

Lenses and Cameras

Most consumer-level zooms such as the Nikon 55-200mm lens or Canon 18-200mm do a good job at covering a variety of focal lengths. But shooting at 200mm isn’t going to handle an event like the solar eclipse with as much resolution and detail as you may want.

That’s where a longer lens such as the Tamron 150-600mm (or the Sigma version) really comes in handy. It will allow you to get a much closer view and to take the kind of pictures you might see on blogs and magazine covers. The downside is that these longer lenses are quite expensive.

Fortunately, there are several places online where you can use to rent lenses from for a few days at a time, which I highly recommend. BorrowLenses, LensRentals, and LensProToGo are popular sites that all carry a similar lineup of lenses, but it’s also a good idea to check with your local brick-and-mortar camera shop too. Many of these stores will let you rent lenses for a very short period of time, which is good since you only need one day to photograph the eclipse.

Tamron’s 150-600mm lens is ideal for shooting a solar eclipse, and you can find it online at places like Amazon.com or  B&H Photo Video.

Alternatives

Another alternative is to look into buying or renting a teleconverter that will increase the focal length of your existing lenses. A 2x teleconverter can be rented for about $ 35 depending on your location. While the resulting images won’t be quite as sharp as if you were using a dedicated zoom lens it should be more than adequate to give you enough reach to photograph the eclipse with a lens you already own. (Note: Some point-and-shoot cameras have impressive zoom lenses but I would advise against using these for the eclipse because there’s not a good way to attach a solar filter to them, which I describe in the next section.)

Finally, it’s worth noting that crop-sensor cameras such as the Canon Rebel T6 Series or Nikon D3400, D5500, and D7200 are ideally suited for this type of event because they will give you more reach out of your lenses. A 200mm lens on a Nikon crop-sensor camera effectively becomes a 300mm lens, and the same holds true for Canon. Micro-four-thirds models have a 2x crop factor so shooting with a 200mm lens on the Olympus OM-D EM-10 is like using a 400mm lens on a standard full-frame DSLR. So for shooting the eclipse, if you have both crop-sensor and full-frame cameras you will be better off using the former instead of the latter.

You don’t need an expensive camera to get good shots. Even an older crop-sensor model like the Nikon D3200 will work great, provided you have a telephoto lens or a teleconverter.

Solar Filter

You wouldn’t look directly at the sun during an eclipse without proper protective equipment for your eyes, and the same holds true for your camera. If you are lucky enough to be in the path of totality you can look at, and take pictures of, the eclipse without needing any special gear. But if you are anywhere except the line of the complete blackout, or want to take pictures of the eclipse as it begins and ends, you will need certain equipment to keep your camera safe.

A special solar filter that attaches to the end of your lens is a great way to protect against damage to your camera. Not to be confused with standard neutral density filters, which are not at all strong enough for this type of situation, solar filters are specifically designed to photograph eclipses and other solar events. Make sure to find one that screws on, or fits over, the end of your lens and not one that goes between your camera and the lens. If it’s the screw-on kind it needs to actually fit your lens too, so double check that the thread size of the filter you get matches the thread size of your lens (look inside the lens cap for your lens, that is the filter size).

You will need a solar filter like this one from Amazon if you plan on pointing your camera at the eclipse at any point other than when the sun is completely covered by the moon.

Solar Glasses

These function much in the same way that a solar filter does, but are designed to protect your eyes instead of your camera. They are not expensive and look like the old style of 3D glasses you might have used in a movie theater decades ago, except these block out virtually all light except what comes from extraordinarily bright objects like the sun.

While wearing solar glasses won’t help you take better photos of the eclipse, it’s good to wear them as the Eclipse waxes and wanes so you can see it with your own eyes instead of through your camera’s viewfinder.

Solar glasses like these are required if you want to look directly at the eclipse as it begins and ends.

Tripod

Unless you have very steady hands or an impressive image stabilization system on your camera, a tripod is essential for shooting an eclipse. While you don’t need anything fancy or expensive, it will help to have a larger one that can keep your camera and lens rock steady. This is why I would recommend against small mount-anywhere tripods that you can find rather cheaply online.

If you are using a zoom lens with a built-in tripod mount, make sure to attach your tripod to that instead of your camera. Otherwise, you will put a great deal of stress on the mount where the lens attaches to the camera. Finally, any time you use a tripod make sure you disable your lens’s vibration reduction system because it can backfire on you and actually make your images more blurry when mounted to a steady surface.

A place to view the Eclipse

If you have all your gear ready, solar glasses on your face and your friends and family gathered to witness this historic event, it could all be for naught if you don’t put yourself in the proper location. The best spot to view Summer 2017’s Eclipse is by finding a location along the path of totality–the geographic line where you will see an entire blackout of the sun for as much as two full minutes. Places not on the path of totality will still see part of the eclipse, but the effect will not be nearly as pronounced.

Many towns and cities located on or near the path of totality have been taking hotel reservations for August 21st and are planning community events to promote the Eclipse. So if you haven’t started looking for lodging yet I would recommend making those plans now. This site has an interactive Google Map with all the information you need to get a good viewing location. Try to find a park, field, or another open area free of obstructions so that you can have a clear view of the eclipse. Though of course, weather plays a big role in this too and it’s entirely possible that your best-laid plans will result in rain or even just a lot of clouds.

Image via NASA’s Eclipse Map site.

Shooting Techniques

Finally, it’s important to keep a few essentials in mind so you can actually get the kind of pictures you are hoping for when the eclipse happens. Here are some tips that can make the difference between a blurry almost-had-it shot and a brilliant glowing halo that you would be proud to print and hang on the wall.

  • Use a fast shutter speed. It’s not about stopping the vibration of your camera, which is what a tripod is for, but freezing the motion of the moon as it travels across the sun. 1/125th of a second will be more than adequate, and going faster than that won’t really give you much of an advantage. Once again, make sure you have a solar filter or else you will damage your camera, and get a pair of solar glasses for your eyes too.
  • Use a small aperture, but not too small. Each lens is different, but in general f/8 or f/11 is going to give you a sharp image without much diffraction or chromatic aberration. Go much larger than that (i.e. f/4, f/2.8) and you risk getting an image that isn’t as sharp as it could be. Much smaller than that (i.e. f/16, f/22) will likely result in weird optical artifacts that happen as the light enters such a small opening and is reflected throughout the glass elements of your lens.
  • Shoot in RAW, not JPEG, and correct your white balance afterward in Lightroom, Photoshop, or another similar program
  • Use a two-second delay timer (if you’re shooting with a tripod) so you don’t get any vibration from your finger pressing the shutter, which can cause the image to appear blurry.
  • Use Live View to check for focus. Alternatively, you can use autofocus but make sure to check your pictures on the LCD screen right away to make sure they are properly in focus. However…
  • …Don’t spend all your time chimping, or looking at the LCD screen on the back of your camera after you take photos. You will only have a few minutes at most to take pictures of the total eclipse, and you will have plenty of time to admire them after it’s all done.

If you want to know more, PBS has a fantastic short video about the upcoming eclipse and you can find all sorts of information by searching online including NASA’s page dedicated to the event.

Do you have any other tips for getting photos of the upcoming eclipse? Please leave your thoughts in the comments below, and be sure to revisit this article after the eclipse to share your photos!

The post How to Photograph a Solar Eclipse by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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These Nikon videos break down the gear and settings you need to shoot the eclipse

08 Jul

The total solar eclipse that’s about to take place next month presents an extremely rare photo opportunity. We have some pointers (and a little bit of opinion) coming at you from an expert in the coming days, but in the meantime, the folks at Nikon have put together a useful pair of tutorial videos that will help you nail that perfect eclipse shot when the time comes.

To be clear: these videos were created by the Nikon USA YouTube channel. To that end, there are a few points in the gear video specifically where the branding is laid on pretty thick; however, if you can get past the PR, the information is very useful and, in fact, brand-agnostic. Photographer Lucas Gilman knows his stuff.

Nikon broke down their tutorial into two 3-minute videos: Gear & Prep and Camera Settings. If you’re planning to shoot the eclipse, grab yourself a pen and pad, scroll down, and click play.

Part 1: Gear and Preparation

The first stop on the gear and prep train is safety—get proper eye protection and slap a solar filter onto your lens to prevent sensor damage. Then, Gilman touches on the kind of camera and lens you should choose.

For his needs, he’s picked a D500 APS-C body for a bit of extra reach, and a Nikkor 200-500mm lens attached to a Nikon 1.4x teleconverter.

Finally, Gilman outlines some of the accessories you’ll want to bring along. Namely: a stable tripod, extra memory cards, a few fully charged batteries, and a cable release.

Camera Settings

Now that you have the proper gear, it’s time to set up your camera. In the second video, Gilman discusses how to determine the proper exposure for two key eclipse shots: a closeup of the sun at totality and photographing the crescent.

While your settings will obviously vary depending on the conditions on the day you’re out there shooting, the tips in the video above will get you most of the way there.


Photos courtesy of Nikon USA

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Lee Filters introduces Solar Eclipse filter and new filter wash fluid

07 Jun

Lee Filters has announced it has a new filter aimed at those wanting to capture the phases of a solar eclipse. The Solar Eclipse Filter is a deep blue and cuts twenty stops of light to make brightness levels more manageable for regular cameras.

The company says it uses a blue coloration to remove damaging infrared from the sun’s rays, so users should expect to perform some color correction in post-production. As a starting point, Lee recommends bracketing around an exposure of F8 at 1/800sec and ISO 800, and points out that the filter is designed for the stages in which the sun is in partial eclipse so it needs to be removed to record the totality stages.

The Lee Solar Eclipse filter will be available for each of Lee’s three systems.

As we all know, aiming into the light shows up dust and dirty on our lenses and filters, so it is timely that Lee has also introduced a new filter cleaning fluid. ClearLee Filter Wash comes in a spray bottle of 50ml or 300ml and is formulated to remove grease from glass and resin filters.

For more information see the Lee Filters website. http://www.leefilters.com

Pricing exclusive of tax
Solar Eclipse Filter (Seven5 System) – £60.50/$ 95
Solar Eclipse Filter (100mm System) – £89.10/$ 150
Solar Eclipse Filter (SW150 System) – £113.30/$ 200
ClearLee Filter Wash 50ml Bottle – £7.00
ClearLee Filter Wash 300ml Bottle – £20.00

Press release

Solar Eclipse Filter

Solar eclipse photography is becoming increasingly popular, and achieving good results can be surprisingly straightforward. However, without the right sort of filter, results will be blown out and overexposed – even at the lowest ISOs and fastest shutter speeds.

In response to the needs of those who often travel the world to witness this fascinating phenomenon, LEE Filters has introduced the Solar Eclipse Filter. Available for the Seven5, 100mm and SW150 systems, the Solar Eclipse Filter is capable of reducing the intensity of light by 20 stops, bringing the exposure range down to a manageable level. It is designed to allow the user to capture the partial phases of an eclipse (the stages before and after total eclipse) with accuracy and consistency. The filter should be removed when photographing totality.

The filter simply slots into the standard LEE Filters holder, and features a foam seal at the rear, to ensure a snug fit and to avoid light leaks.

It should be noted that the Solar Eclipse Filter is suitable only for photography of eclipses, and is not recommended for general, long-exposure landscape photography. This is because it is designed to filter out some of the sun’s harmful infrared rays, and is therefore very blue in colour. Any colour cast affecting eclipse images can be corrected in postproduction, or the images converted to black and white.

Pricing
Solar Eclipse Filter (Seven5 System) – £60.50 (Excl VAT)
Solar Eclipse Filter (100mm System) – £89.10 (Excl VAT)
Solar Eclipse Filter (SW150 System) – £113.30 (Excl VAT)

ClearLEE Filter Wash

In the course of the average photographic day, filters can be exposed to all sorts of potentially damaging conditions – from rain to sand to salt spray from the sea – not to mention grubby fingerprints from being handled.

Keeping filters clean not only increases their lifespan, it also means images retain their clarity and sharpness, as the sort of softness that arises from a dirty filter can be almost impossible to correct in postproduction.

ClearLEE Filter Wash has been specially formulated to cut through dirt and grease quickly, efficiently and above all, safely, and is suitable for use on both resin and glass filters.

Supplied in an aluminium bottle with a spray top, ClearLEE Filter Wash is available in 300ml and a smaller 50ml size, which is ideal for dropping into a camera bag when heading out on a shoot.

To use, simply spray directly on to the filter, then wipe with a clean microfibre or lint-free cloth. For best results, buff the filter with a fresh cloth or tissue.

Pricing
50ml Bottle – £7.00 (Excl VAT)
300ml Bottle – £20.00 (Excl VAT)

For further information, contact LEE Filters www.leefilters.com

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Canon wants to get you ready for this year’s total solar eclipse

19 Apr

Photographers throughout the U.S. will get a rare treat this upcoming August 21: a total solar eclipse visible throughout a significant part of the country, the first of its kind to affect the nation from coast-to-coast since 1918. Ahead of the celestial event comes a new blog from Canon titled ‘A Total Guide to Totality.’ In it, photographers will find a library of articles detailing how to prepare for and photograph the solar eclipse.

As explained by Space.com recently, the upcoming solar eclipse will be visible to the general American public across a region spanning from the coast of Oregon to the coast of South Carolina. Canon details this and more in one of its new educational articles, as well as providing info on choosing the right lenses and the right cameras to photograph the event. 

Overall, the blog is no doubt slanted toward Canon’s own array of products, but the information is applicable to all photographers regardless of which brand they use. The articles on the blog are co-authored by photographer Dave Henry and Canon Explorer of Light Ken Sklute. In addition to the blog, Canon is planning to offer eclipse photography workshops in July, though full details aren’t available at this time.

Via: Canon

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Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse

02 Apr

_MG_5566-MWhile some obscure astronomical events get over-hyped, a total lunar eclipse is always a crowd-pleaser. It is easy to observe and photograph, even among the bright lights of the big cities. April’s Easter Lunar Eclipse (2015) is visible from North America, across the Pacific to Australia, and eastern parts of Asia. The photography advice below will also serve the rest of the world well in September when an eclipse is visible to those who miss out on this one.

Eclipse Details for Saturday April 4th, 2015

A lunar eclipse occurs when the alignment of the moon’s orbit is just right, taking it inside Earth’s shadow at the time of full moon, when the moon is opposite the sun. This total eclipse occurs on Saturday April 4th, 2015, in the morning for observers in the Americas, and the evening for those in Australia and Asia. In total, this eclipse lasts for three and a half hours but totality, where the moon is fully inside our shadow, only lasts for around five minutes.

Because the moon only grazes into the shadow, this eclipse is likely to be a little brighter than usual, and the color more orange than red. For people in eastern Canada and the United States, as well as western parts of South America, the moon will set before the total eclipse begins, but you will have the opportunity to create unique images of the moon setting partially eclipsed.

lunar_201504

Visit in-the-sky.org for event times in your area. Change your location on the right hand side if the automatic selection is incorrect.

Photographing a Lunar Eclipse

There are two main approaches to photographing a lunar eclipse using just a DSLR and a tripod, excluding more complex approaches with telescopes and tracking mounts.

  1. You can get in as close as possible with a telephoto lens to capture detail of the changing partial, and total phases of the eclipse.
  2. Create wide-field and composite images showing the stages of the eclipse as the moon moves through the sky.

Wide-field Eclipse Composites

Lunar Eclipse over Maryborough Station-M

Partial phases of a lunar eclipse over Maryborough Station.
Canon 5D Mark II, 24-105mm lens at 82mm.
Nine exposures of the moon each 1/90 sec, f/8, ISO 200.
Images stacked is PS using lighten blending mode with one 2 second exposure of the foreground.

The moon moves across the sky at approximately 15 degrees per hour or 50 degrees over the full duration of the eclipse. You need a wide angle lens around 18mm focal length (28mm on a full frame camera) to capture all the stages of the eclipse in one field of view. An alternative is to frame up part of the eclipse with a longer focal length about 50mm (80mm on a full frame camera) like the image above which shows the partial stages in more detail.

In the northern hemisphere, the moon (like the sun) moves from left-to-right through the sky. So at the start of the eclipse, position the moon in the left side of the frame leaving it room to move across the image during the eclipse. Reverse that advice in the southern hemisphere. Night sky planetarium Apps such as Stellarium and SkySafari (iOS only) allow you to visualize the path of the moon through the sky to help plan your framing.

Telephoto Eclipse Images

With a moderate telephoto lens you can get nice detail of the changing stages of a lunar eclipse. During the partial stages the brightness of the moon allows for very short exposures, so trailing it should not be a problem, although you will need a sturdy tripod and use mirror lock-up to reduce vibration.

Lunar Eclipse Partial Phases Composite Canon 1100D, 300mm lens with 1.4x teleconverter, 1/125 sec, f5.6, ISO200

Lunar eclipse partial phases composite.
Canon 1100D, 300mm lens with 1.4x teleconverter, 1/125 sec, f/5.6, ISO 200

During totality, the Moon’s brightness greatly reduces, however this eclipse will be a little brighter than usual. Aim for exposures of around one second with the aperture wide open, and push the ISO as much as you need to, being careful not to blow the highlights on the brighter edge. You should be able to capture images like this one below, which is an example of what you can do even with regular affordable cameras (although nice lenses do help).

_MG_5566-M

Totality during a lunar eclipse
Canon 1100D, 300mm lens with 1.4x teleconverter, 1/2 sec, f/5.6, ISO 200

Eclipse at Moonset

In the eastern United States and Canada, and the western half of South America, the moon will set during the partial stages before total eclipse. Through central areas the moon will set while totally eclipsed which will make it much dimmer than a normal moonset and potentially hard to see amongst bright city lights. In the western half of North America you get to enjoy the partial phases leading up to, and including the total eclipse, then capture the moon setting as the partial phases reverse at the end of the eclipse.

You can use apps and software like The Photographers Ephemeris (Android/iOS) and Photo Pills (iOS only) to plan the alignment of the moon against landscape features as it rises or sets. Australian photographer Colin Legg captured this shot of the moon rising during an eclipse last year. An astronomer would immediately recognize the unusual configuration – a crescent moon can normally only appear in a twilight sky in the same direction as sunrise or sunset. Here the crescent moon appears amidst the beautiful shading of Earth’s shadow and The Belt of Venus, opposite where the sun set about 15 minutes earlier. Similar images before sunrise will be possible across North and South America during April’s lunar eclipse.

2014-10-08-Lake-Ballard-Lunar-Eclipse-115mm-1200

Lunar Eclipse over Lake Ballard, Western Australia – image courtesy of Colin Legg

Will you get out and give it a go? Share any comments and questions below, and if you get a great shot of the eclipse share it here too. You might want to share it on the weekly photography challenge Shoot the Moon also.


fi3-340x220Want more night sky photography tips? Right now Phil’s eBook Shooting Stars is 50% off over at Snapndeals. Now only until April 27th!

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The post Tips for Photographing a Lunar Eclipse by Phil Hart appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Danny MacAskill leaps from Skye to eclipse other action shots

21 Mar

The weather spoiled today’s solar eclipse for many would-be watchers in the UK but it was visible in some parts of the country. Dutch photographer Rutger Pauw teamed up with trials biking genius Danny MacAskill to get a rather different shot. Using a long telephoto lens and shooting from over 300m away, Pauw had to communicate with MacAskill by radio to time the shot precisely, a process complicated by only having enough battery power to fire their super-powerful strobe once. Read more

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