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Shallow Depth of Field: How to Get It in Your Photos (5 Easy Ways)

07 Oct

The post Shallow Depth of Field: How to Get It in Your Photos (5 Easy Ways) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

What is shallow depth of field photography? And how can you create it for beautiful, pro-level effects?

In this article, I’ll share everything you need to know about shallow depth of field, including:

What shallow depth of field actually is
Why shallow depth of field is useful in photography
Five easy ways to create that gorgeous shallow depth of field effect

In fact, here’s my guarantee: By the time you leave, you’ll be a shallow DOF expert.

Sound good? Let’s dive right in, starting with a simple definition:

What is a shallow depth of field in photography?

A shallow depth of field refers to an effect where very little of the image is in focus.

For instance, an image might include an in-focus subject, but have a blurred-out background. This is common in portrait photography (and if you look through this article, you’ll notice that my shallow depth of field examples are all portraits for this very reason!).

A shallow depth of field contrasts with a deep depth of field, where the entire shot, from foreground to background, remains in focus. Deep depth of field effects are common in landscape photography, where detail is a key compositional element.

Why is a shallow depth of field effect important?

Plenty of photographers love shallow depth of field effects – for two big reasons:

A shallow depth of field separates the subject from the background, helping the subject stand out.
A shallow depth of field generally blurs the background, which looks really gorgeous (when done right, that is!).

Often, a shallow depth of field is a stylistic choice, one that certain photographers tend to prefer and other photographers like to avoid.

Here’s a list of genres that gravitate toward shallow DOF effects:

Portrait photography
Wildlife photography
Street photography (sometimes)
Fashion photography
Product photography (sometimes)

Of course, this list isn’t exhaustive, and regardless, don’t feel hemmed in. If you prefer shallow depth of field but you shoot landscapes, that’s okay – do what you like!

How to get a shallow depth of field effect: 5 techniques

Now let’s take a look at how you can create shallow depth of field effects in your photos:

1. Increase the subject-background distance

It’s one of the easiest ways to achieve a shallow depth of field effect:

Position your subject as far away from any background objects as possible.

If your subject is standing right in front of a wall, it’ll be in focus no matter what you do. But if they’re standing 100 meters in front of that same wall, it’s going to be a lot more blurry. Think of it as giving your background more room to blur.

Quick note: Technically, increasing the distance between the subject and the background doesn’t make the depth of field more shallow. The depth of field remains the same regardless (it depends on other factors that I discuss below).

But bringing your subject forward increases the appearance of a shallow depth of field and gives you a near-equivalent effect.

shallow depth of field photography woman smiling

2. Use your camera’s Portrait mode

These days, most beginner cameras include a little wheel on top with lots of little icons on it – the Mode dial.

And on certain beginner models, the Mode dial will feature Scene modes, such as Landscape, Night, Sports, etc.

Generally, one of these modes is Portrait. And if you’re uncomfortable using more advanced modes (such as Aperture Priority or Manual mode), Portrait mode is a good way to decrease the depth of field; it sets a large aperture (discussed in the next section!), which will make the depth of field smaller.

Now, Portrait mode doesn’t offer any control over your depth of field effect, so I only recommend you use it if you feel completely lost or have no intention of learning basic camera settings.

And if you do want to gain more control, check out the next method of creating shallow depth of field:

3. Widen your lens’s aperture

Every lens includes an aperture – essentially a hole – that widens or narrows depending on your camera’s aperture setting.

And the wider the aperture, the shallower the depth of field.

Portrait mode will automatically widen your aperture. But if you want a greater level of control, I’d recommend using either Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, which allow you to dial in your preferred aperture (then watch as the background is blurred).

If you’ve never set the aperture before, know that small numbers, such as f/1.8 and f/2.8, correspond to a wide aperture (and hence a shallow depth of field). Large numbers, such as f/16 and f/22, correspond to a narrow aperture (and a deep depth of field).

For ultra-shallow depth of field effects, stick to f/2.8 and wider if possible, though your aperture capabilities will depend on your lens (because all lenses have an aperture maximum).

shallow depth of field photography man with camera

In fact, if you like the idea of adjusting the aperture to achieve the perfect depth of field effect, I highly recommend you put your camera on Aperture Priority mode, find a subject, and test out a handful of different apertures. Then review each photo carefully, paying attention to how the aperture setting affects the depth of field.

4. Use a long lens (and get close to your subject)

The closer you get to your subject, both optically – by using a long lens – and physically – by moving toward your subject – the shallower the depth of field and the better the background blur.

That’s why the best shallow depth of field portraits tend to be taken on an 85mm lens or a 70-200mm lens, not a 50mm or 35mm lens. The longer focal length makes it easier to get close, which in turn decreases the depth of field. Make sense?

However, if you only own a 35mm lens, don’t worry; you can still create a shallow DOF. You simply need to get close to your subject. Yes, it might be a bit uncomfortable if you’re photographing people – you’ll be shooting from right in front of their face! – but the results will be worth it.

By the way, longer lenses have another advantage over shorter lenses:

They compress the background. The actual effect is difficult to explain, but it leads to a smoother background blur and the appearance of a shallow depth of field.

So if possible, shoot your images from up close – and use a long lens, too. (Don’t get crazy with your focal length, though, especially if you’re photographing people; if you go over 200mm or so, you’ll be forced to back up ridiculously far, which can become unmanageable, plus you’ll lose a level of photographer-subject intimacy.)

5. Get a wide-aperture lens

Previously, I explained that a wide aperture leads to outstanding shallow depth of field effects. I also mentioned that some lenses feature a maximum aperture.

So if you’re serious about achieving a shallow depth of field, a lens with a wide aperture (known as a fast lens) is your friend.

Unfortunately, fast lenses tend to be expensive, but they can also be worth the investment. Plus, there are a few fast primes – such as a 50mm f/1.8 – that are optically impressive, capable of beautiful background blur, and are also quite cheap.

(Fast lenses also let you shoot in low light, which is a major bonus.)

By the way, some lenses offer better background blur than others. So before purchasing, I recommend reading reviews of possible lenses (or at least viewing sample images). Good reviewers will discuss background blur (also known as bokeh), and you can determine whether the lens is right for you.

woman on a subway platform portrait shallow DOF

Shallow depth of field: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about shallow depth of field and how to create it.

So head out with your camera. See if you can get some beautiful depth of field effects. Try out the methods I’ve suggested.

And have fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these methods is your favorite? Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Shallow Depth of Field: How to Get It in Your Photos (5 Easy Ways) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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How to Save Transparent Background in Photoshop? The Easy Way

21 Aug

Are you looking to create an image with a transparent background in Photoshop? Which is the best method? How do you save the final image in different file formats? Which formats allow saving transparent backgrounds? What are the use cases for transparent backgrounds? If you need help with any of these, the following article will answer all of these questions Continue Reading
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How to Take Good Pictures in Bright Sunlight: 11 Easy Tips

07 Jun

The post How to Take Good Pictures in Bright Sunlight: 11 Easy Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

how to take good photos in bright sunlight

How can you take good pictures in bright sunlight? As you may be aware, harsh lighting can lead to unwanted contrast, blown-out highlights, lens flare, and colors that look overly saturated. (If you’re shooting portraits, direct sunlight can also lead to the “squint factor.”)

So what’s a photographer to do?

It turns out there are simple methods of capturing stunning shots in bright light. You just have to choose your compositions and camera settings carefully – and at times, get a bit creative.

So to discover 11 quick and simple tips for combating problems caused by bright sunlight, read on:

1. Move into the shade

The simplest way to take beautiful images in direct sunlight?

Just move into the shade.

Obviously, this isn’t always feasible – you certainly can’t move an entire seascape! – but with some subjects, heading into the shade is quick and easy. It’s a good solution when shooting portraits, assuming you’re not tied to a particular location.

After all, sometimes the simplest solutions are best!

2. Make your own shade

For small subjects that aren’t movable – for instance, a small flower in a field – create your own shade!

You have a few different options, some more convenient than others:

Block the light with your body
Ask an assistant to stand between the flower and the light
Hold a piece of cardboard or an umbrella above the flower
Use a pop-up diffuser

Note that some of these options will be more effective depending on the direction of the light (e.g., if the bright sun is directly overhead, it’ll be tough to block it with your own body).

And a diffuser, because it softens the light rather than blocks it, will give you the most balanced, flattering results.

how to take good pictures in direct sunlight umbrellas

3. Use fill flash

One of the biggest problems with shooting in direct sunlight is the harsh shadows. For instance, portrait subjects will get unwanted shadows under the chin, flowers will get heavy shadows underneath the petals, and pets will get dark shadows under their head and body.

In general, these harsh shadows look bad, but there’s an easy solution:

Fill flash.

Simply point a flash toward the dark shadows and fire away! Make sure the flash is on a low power setting – after all, you don’t want to make the underside of your subject brighter than its top! – and experiment with different flash angles for the best results.

You also might try putting the sun behind your subject, then using the fill flash to brighten up your subject’s front. It can look really good, though watch out for lens flare.

4. Use a reflector

Want to fill in harsh shadows but don’t like using flash?

You have another easy option:

A reflector.

Reflectors are white or metallic items that bounce light back into darker areas, and they’re really easy to use. Simply point the reflector at the area you want to brighten up, then adjust it until you get some nice fill (by angling the reflector back and forth, you’ll see the reflected light change position, and you can use this “preview” to fine-tune the effect).

Note that you can also try the same tactic I mentioned in the previous section, where you position your subject in front of the sun and bounce light back onto their front. A reflector isn’t as powerful as a fill flash, so you’ll need to carefully angle it for maximum effect – but if you get it right, the results will be amazing.

5. Change your perspective

Sometimes, moving your subject into the shade isn’t possible – but moving around your subject can give the same effect.

For instance, if you’re shooting an interesting tree in the forest, you might move to the tree’s other side, you might find an interesting part of the tree that’s shrouded in shadow, or you might get low and shoot up.

The idea is to observe your subject carefully, looking for ways to maximize shade and minimize bright highlights and annoying contrast.

6. Use a lens hood

Suffering from lens flare?

While flare can be artistic, it can also be very annoying, especially if you’re after a clean, straightforward image.

Fortunately, many lenses come with hoods, which block flare-causing light and keep your photos flare-free.

If you don’t have a lens hood, don’t fret; it’s not that difficult to construct a hood out of cardboard or to use your hand to shield your lens from the sun.

(Just make sure you keep your makeshift lens hood and your hand out of the shot – otherwise, you’ll be doing a lot of cropping in post-production!)

7. Consider using a filter

Unfortunately, filters don’t offer a magical solution for bright sunlight – there’s no “avoid direct sunlight” filter, at least not currently – but filters can be handy for direct sunlight photography.

For instance, a polarizing filter will help cut down on reflections, plus it’ll help you achieve vibrant colors (including a beautiful blue sky).

And a neutral density filter will reduce the light hitting your camera sensor, allowing for slower shutter speeds and smaller apertures at midday.

(Why might that be useful? Sometimes, you’ll want to shoot with a wide aperture for the shallow depth of field effect, or you’ll want a slow shutter speed to convey motion blur.)

8. Play with your white balance settings

These days, pretty much every digital camera lets you choose between different white balance settings (for instance, you can dial in a white balance preset, such as Cloudy or Daylight, or you can set a custom white balance based on your scene).

Now, you can adjust the white balance later on in post-processing, assuming you’re shooting in RAW. But if you shoot in JPEG, or you simply prefer to get things right in-camera, you’ll want to carefully set your white balance from the start.

How is this helpful for taking good pictures in bright sunlight?

Well, white balances can offer artistic effects that enhance the look of highlights and shadows. A cooler white balance, for instance, can give a neat effect to more monochrome images – while a warm white balance will make bright sunlight appear softer and more inviting.

9. Use spot metering for the best results

Harsh sunlight makes correct metering tricky. So here’s my advice:

Use spot metering. This will force your camera to expose based on a targeted portion of your scene; you can aim at your main subject, then dial in the recommended exposure settings.

Alternatively, you can spot meter off a midtone in your shot – this will ensure the entire scene is exposed relatively well (as opposed to the former technique, which will ensure you expose for your subject).

After taking an image, check the back of your camera for a preview; you may need to adjust your technique depending on the result. Here, your histogram can be very handy, especially because it’s tough to accurately evaluate an LCD preview in bright sunlight.

Also, if you have the luxury of time, try metering off different parts of the scene while taking multiple shots – that way, you can choose the best option later on.

10. Carefully choose the time of day you shoot

Most of us don’t have the luxury of sitting around all day waiting for the perfect light.

But heading out an hour or two earlier or waiting until an hour or two later might be feasible – and if that’s manageable, I highly recommend you consider it.

You see, the time of day can dramatically impact your shot. Midday offers unpleasant, harsh light, but if you go out in the early morning or late afternoon, even direct sunlight starts to look good. You’ll lose the unwanted contrast, you’ll lose the ugly shadows, and you’ll get soft, golden light that’ll flatter your subjects.

Make sense?

11. Shoot silhouettes

As the saying goes:

If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em!

And that applies when photographing subjects in bright sunlight. If the sun is causing you problems, just use it to your advantage; make your subject stand in front of the bright light, then capture stunning silhouettes all day long.

I recommend getting down low (so that you’re shooting against the bright sky). And compose so your subject is clearly defined against the background.

How to take good pictures in bright sunlight: conclusion

Well, there you have it:

Eleven easy tips for shooting in bright sunlight.

Capturing beautiful photos in harsh light might seem difficult – but remember these tips, and your photos will turn out great!

Now over to you:

Do you struggle to shoot in bright sunlight? Do you have any tips or tricks for dealing with these issues? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below.

how to take good pictures in direct sunlight city at dusk

The post How to Take Good Pictures in Bright Sunlight: 11 Easy Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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How to Take Great Group Photos: 12 Easy Tips

15 May

The post How to Take Great Group Photos: 12 Easy Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

If you’re looking to take beautiful group photos, you’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I’m going to share 12 simple tips for capturing stunning photos of groups. Specifically, I’ll discuss:

How to pose a group like a pro
A simple trick to capture everyone in the group looking their best
How to pick the perfect group photo location
Much, much more!

So if you’re ready to become a group photography expert, then let’s get started!

1. Prepare ahead of time

There is nothing that will make group photo subjects turn on you faster than you not being prepared. People don’t like to be kept waiting, so plan ahead.

Here’s what I recommend you do several hours (or days) before the photo:

Scope out the location of your shot beforehand
Think about how you will pose people and frame your shot

Then, a few minutes before the photo:

Make sure everyone you want in the shot knows that you want them in the shot
Make sure your camera is on and has charged batteries

2. Carefully choose the location

The group photo location is important for a number of reasons.

First, it can give the photo context. For example, a shot of a sports team on their playing field says more than a shot of the team in front of a brick wall.

Second, the location can help emphasize your group – or it can draw the eye. To make the group stand out, you’ll need a location with no distractions.

So choose a place where your group will fit, where there is enough light for the shot, and where there are no distracting surroundings. Also, avoid setting up a group shot directly in front of a window where the light from your flash might reflect back in an unpleasant way.

3. Take multiple shots

Sometimes, it’s tough to get everyone looking just right at the exact same time.

That’s why I highly recommend you take multiple photos quickly; I often switch my camera to continuous shooting mode and photograph in short bursts. The first shot is often no good – but the shot or two directly after gives a group that looks less posed and more relaxed.

On a related note, shoot some frames before everyone is ready. Sometimes, the organization of a group shot can be quite comical and image-worthy (as people tell each other where to go and jostle for position).

Also, mix up the framing of your shots a little. If you have a zoom lens, try capturing some shots at a wide focal length and some shots that are more tightly framed.

4. Get in close

Try to get as close as you can to the group you’re photographing (without cutting out group members, of course!). The closer you can get, the more detail you’ll capture in their faces – something that can really elevate a shot.

If your group is small, step in and take some head and shoulder shots. Another effective technique is to get everyone to lean in; that way, you can move even closer without cutting out subjects. You might also try moving everyone out of a one-line formation and placing some people in front and behind.

5. Pose the group

how to take group photos people in uniforms looking up

In most cases, your group will pose itself pretty naturally (after all, we’ve all been in a group shot at some point). Tall people will go to the back, short people to the front. But there are other things you can do to improve the photo’s composition:

If the event is centered around one or two people (like a wedding or a birthday), make the hosts the focal point by putting them right in the middle of the group (you can add variation by taking some shots of everyone looking at the camera and other shots of everyone looking at the person/couple).
For formal group photos, put taller members toward the back center of the shot, with shorter people along the edges.
Try not to make the group too deep (i.e., keep the distance between the front line of people and the back line of people as small as you can). This will help keep everyone in focus. If the composition does end up being deep, use a narrow aperture.
Tell everyone to raise their chins a little; they’ll thank you later when they see the shot without any double chins!

6. Time your group shot well

Carefully pick the moment for your photo. Try to choose a time that works with what is happening at the gathering. I find it best to do a group shot when people are already close together and when there is a lull in the proceedings.

The start of an event can be a good time to shoot; everyone is together, they all look their best, and if there is alcohol involved, it hasn’t significantly affected the group yet.

7. Think about the light

In order to get enough detail in the final shot, you need to have sufficient light. The way you should do this varies from situation to situation – but consider using a flash if the group is small enough and you are close enough for it to take effect, especially if the main source of light is coming from behind the group.

If it’s a bright, sunny day and the sun is low in the sky, try not to face your subjects toward the light – otherwise, you’ll end up with a collection of squinting faces.

8. Take control

I’ve been in a number of group photos where the photographer almost lost control of their subjects. It happened for two reasons:

They weren’t quick enough.
They didn’t communicate well with the group.

When shooting a group photo, it’s important to keep talking, let the group know what you want them to do, motivate them to smile, tell them that they look great, and make clear how long you’ll need them for.

It’s also important to give your subjects a reason to pose for the photograph (and to listen to you). At a wedding, you might motivate people by saying “The happy couple has asked me to get some group shots.” At a sporting event, you could say, “Let’s take a group photo to celebrate our win.” When you give people a reason to pose, you’ll find they are much more willing to stand for a few minutes while you snap photos.

Here’s another very useful line to use with a group: “If you can see the camera, then it can see you.” This one is key if you want to be able to see each person’s face in the final image.

If there are other photographers, just wait until they’ve all finished their shots, then get the attention of the full group. Otherwise, you’ll get everyone looking in different directions.

Of course, you don’t want to be a dictator when posing your group – otherwise, your group shots will include some very angry expressions. The best photographers know how to get people’s attention and communicate what they want, while also keeping people relaxed and having fun.

how to take group photos girls in a line

9. Get up high when photographing large groups

Large groups of people can be very difficult to photograph. Even with careful staggering and tiering, you’ll struggle to fit everyone into the shot.

One solution is to elevate yourself. If I’m photographing a wedding and the couple wants one big group shot, I’ll arrange for a ladder to be present, or I’ll find some other way to get up high (I’ve even climbed up onto church roofs!). A high vantage point lets you fit a lot of people into the frame while still remaining quite close to the group. It also gives an interesting perspective, especially if you’re using a nice, wide focal length.

10. Use a tripod

There are a number of reasons why tripods are great for group photography.

First, a tripod communicates your seriousness and can help get the group’s attention (it’s amazing what a professional-looking setup can do!).

Second, a tripod gives you more freedom to pose your subjects. Simply set your camera on a tripod, set the exposure, and set the focus. Then guide your subjects through different poses – and when everything looks just right, you can quickly press the shutter button!

11. Use an assistant

If you have a very large group, an assistant can be super helpful. For one, they can get the group organized – tell people when to come, where to stand, etc.

An assistant is also incredibly handy if you are taking multiple group shots (like at a wedding when you’re photographing different configurations of a family). In such a case, I often ask the couple to provide me with a family member or a friend who can ensure we have everyone we need in each shot.

Having a family member act as your assistant ensures you don’t miss anyone (assuming they’re related to members of the group). Plus, the group will be familiar with them and will therefore respond well when the “assistant” orders them around.

12. Smile

Yes, you should smile! During a group session, there’s nothing worse than a grumpy, stressed-out photographer. Have fun and enjoy the process of getting your shots, and you’ll find the group will, too.

In fact, after photographing a wedding, I usually come home with an incredibly sore face from all the smiling I’ve done! I find the best way to get the couple and their family to relax and smile is to smile at them. It really does work.

Bonus tip: Let your imagination run wild!

One more quick tip. Get a little creative! You don’t always have to use standard compositions; instead, you can capture more imaginative, unusual photos.

How to take great group photos: conclusion

Group photos might seem difficult, but they’re really not!

Just follow the tips I’ve given you, and your group photos will turn out stunning.

Now over to you:

Have you had success taking group photos? Share your shots in the comments below! Also, if you enjoyed this article, subscribe to the dPS newsletter!

The post How to Take Great Group Photos: 12 Easy Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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11 Food Photography Ideas (for Easy Inspiration)

07 May

The post 11 Food Photography Ideas (for Easy Inspiration) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Are you looking for food photography ideas to get inspired? You’ve come to the right place.

Professional high-end jobs in food photography often have a producer, an art director, a home economist, and a food stylist – or a subset of these. But if you’re just starting out, or you use food photography for your blog, you have to take care of everything on your own.

These food photography ideas are meant to help – and cover lots of key information, from picking the props to editing the photos. So keep on reading!

1. Use non-reflective props whenever possible

One of the most difficult technical challenges in food photography is dealing with reflections. Usually, plates, glasses, and cutlery are made with reflective materials that can be very tricky to photograph. That’s why I advise you to work with matte props if possible.

food photography ideas non-reflective mug vs reflective mug — Canon 70D | 31mm | f/2.8 | 1/8s | ISO 100

Consider the two cups above. To make a good picture with the shiny, ceramic cup, I would’ve spent a lot of time and effort managing the reflections in-camera – and I would’ve probably finished the job in post-processing. But with the matte cup, I had no issues; the downside is that it’s not always easy to find non-reflective props.

Salt-glazed ceramic or terracotta are good choices for plates and bowls depending on the look you want to achieve. As for cutlery, find tarnished silver or wooden utensils. But it needs to make sense with the mood of the photo.

Finally, you can try a matte finishing spray for bottles and glasses. There are some professional options, but you can also experiment with deodorant and hair spray.

2. Practice every chance you get

food photography ideas bread lined up — Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark III | M.Zuiko 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 | f/3.5 | 1/20s | ISO 2000

Practice makes perfect, so you should be practicing your food photography as much as possible.

Going out to eat is a great way to practice because it will give you a different setting as well as challenging lighting. Plus, practice photos are also great for your social media; you can post food photos on sites like Instagram to build your brand and grow your business.

You won’t have much control when shooting in a restaurant, especially if you’re using your phone – but that’s a challenge that will help you improve.

And you can do some things, such as:

Choose the right camera angle
Arrange the elements on the table in a pleasing way
Carefully exercise composition guidelines

Actually, if you enjoy it and you become good at it, photographing restaurant food for social media can be your area of specialization. Many restaurants are currently hiring professional photographers to populate their own social media channels.

3. Pay attention to composition

golden spiral food bowl composition — Xiaomi Redmi Note 8 | Native camera app | f/1.8 | 1/35s | ISO 250

Food photography composition refers to the positioning of elements (food, bowls, cutlery, etc.) within the frame. It’s an essential food photography factor because it will define how the viewer perceives the entire scene.

There are many compositional guidelines you can use to make your food photography stand out. Keep in mind that these guidelines aren’t universal; while a “rule” may fit one image, it might not be right for the next one. It all depends on the elements in your scene and what you’re trying to communicate.

For example, straight lines and a square composition convey stability, while diagonal lines and triangle compositions make for a dynamic image.

Most cameras have a grid with the rule of thirds, which is a basic composition guideline that suggests you position key elements a third of the way into the frame. However, many camera apps offer a wider selection of grids, such as the golden ratio – so experimenting with your smartphone can be a good way to train your eye.

Keep in mind that you can always improve the composition in post-processing using the Crop tool. In fact, Lightroom and Photoshop offer composition grids to guide your crops.

4. Learn to use – and prioritize – the camera settings

hand sprinkling seasoning onto food — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/5.6 | 1/200s | ISO 800

There are three settings to consider when you expose your image: the lens opening through which light travels (aperture), how long the light comes in for (shutter speed), and the extent to which the light is amplified by your camera (ISO). But you must be careful because each of these camera settings comes with other effects that can ruin a photo.

So what should you use to adjust the exposure?

Widening or narrowing the aperture will determine how much of your image is in focus. This is known as the depth of field. So if you have a still subject and you’re using a tripod, first adjust the aperture to achieve the desired depth of field. Leave the ISO at 100, then slow down your shutter speed to properly expose the photograph.

Now, with a slow shutter speed, all moving objects appear blurred. If you want to freeze motion, you have to keep a fast shutter speed. So for food photography scenes with movement, you should prioritize the shutter speed. Then set the aperture based on depth of field concerns. Finally, adjust the ISO.

Note: The higher the ISO, the more noise you’ll have in your photo; the lower the ISO, the smoother and sharper the result (all else being equal). So you should always use the lowest possible ISO.

5. Choose the right angle

food photography ideas two different angles of a jar with seeds — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/5.6 | 1/6s | ISO 100

Your choice of camera angle can make or break a photograph. There are three main camera angles in food photography:

The top angle. Most commonly known as flat lay, this is a trendy style on Instagram. To create a top-angle shot, you should have the sensor parallel to the subject’s plane. (For top-angle inspiration, search Instagram for the hashtags #flatlayphotography or #flatlaystyle.)
45 degrees. Position your camera at a 45-degree angle from the flat table or surface on which the food lies. This angle mimics the way you normally see food.
On a level. For this angle, you must drop the camera down to the subject’s level (your lens will often sit just above the table).

6. Choose the right light

food photography ideas strawberry in dramatic light — Canon 70D | 55mm | f/2.8 | 1/60s | ISO 100

The type of light and lighting setup you use will determine the mood and ambience of your food photography.

Do you prefer to do dark, moody shots or light and ethereal ones? Do you like to use artificial light or daylight? Should the light come from the side, the back, or the front?

There isn’t a hard rule that says what’s right or wrong. Make lighting choices based on what you want the image to communicate.

7. Take some macro shots

macro popcorn piece on kernels — Canon 70D | 200mm | f/5.6 | 1/6s | ISO 100

Macro photography produces magnified food close-ups, and it can be a simple way to add some variety to your food photography.

To achieve macro magnifications, I recommend a macro lens or extension tubes, though you can do near-macro photography with a telephoto lens.

You might capture macro images of a small ingredient, or you can highlight a detail from a bigger dish. It’s a creative approach that can enhance common subjects. Here are a few tips to get you started with macro food photography:

Always use a tripod. At macro magnifications, even the smallest movement can change the focus and composition. A tripod will lock in your focus and keep the composition consistent.
Use the rear LCD and focus manually. In macro photography, the depth of field is very shallow. If you want to nail the focus every time, you should forget about the viewfinder and work with the LCD screen of your camera. Then you can zoom in and manually adjust the focus.
Use the self-timer or a remote release. This will avoid any camera shake from pressing the shutter button.

8. Food is culture, so step out of the studio

food photography ideas food market spices — Canon 50D | 35mm | f/4.5 | 1/25s | ISO 400

As Penny De Los Santos, a former National Geographic, award-winning photographer, says: “A food photographer is a visual food anthropologist. It’s not just about food on a plate; [it’s also about] the moments, the connections, the scenes, the places, the stories.”

Most people think of food photography as a prepped-in-the-studio job or as quick smartphone photos at a restaurant. But photographing a harvest or a food market allows for other types of food photography (that blend with genres such as travel photography and documentary).

So to enrich your food photography experience and to expand your creativity, give this a try!

9. Develop your personal style

artichokes in a basket — Canon 70D | 40mm | f/8 | 2 sec | ISO 100

Food photography is a vast field with many different approaches. What type of food photography do you want to do? Lifestyle photography? Still life? Product shots?

Another way to think about this is to start with the type of subject you want to shoot. You can choose between raw materials or cooked dishes. In any case, the decisions you make will determine your personal style and aesthetic.

Don’t worry, though; you don’t have to decide everything at first. Once you’ve made a few basic choices, your style will develop as you go. Then you can reflect on it, make conscious decisions, and perfect it with time.

But remember that your editing process will influence your style, so pay attention to it, too.

10. Retouch your photos

grapes with and without post-processing — Canon 70D | 45mm | f/7.1 | 1/5s | ISO 200

If you’re not working with a home economist or a food stylist, you might not have the perfect-looking dish or ingredient every time.

That’s where your retouching skills come into play. In Photoshop, you can perfect the edge of a rough cookie, color the border of a not-yet-ripe fruit, or reposition the cherry on top of a cupcake. You can also get rid of any unwanted reflections.

11. Use presets

food photography ideas grapes in Lightroom

Using presets and actions is a great way to speed up your editing and develop a consistent workflow. You can make your own presets, or you can get them from other professionals. There are many options on the market either for free or for sale.

Food photography ideas: conclusion

Well, that’s it:

11 food photography ideas to get your creative juices flowing. So have some food photography fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these food photo ideas is your favorite? Do you have any food photography shots you’re proud of? Share your thoughts (and photos) in the comments below!

The post 11 Food Photography Ideas (for Easy Inspiration) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos

21 Apr

The post Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

What is smartphone RAW photography, and how can you set up RAW imaging on your phone? If high-quality photos are your goal, you must know how to do smartphone RAW photography.

For a long time, only standalone cameras supported RAW format. But these days, many smartphone manufacturers are including it as a feature on their devices – and in this article, I’ll share with you step-by-step instructions for capturing RAW photos on iPhones, Samsung phones, and Huawei phones.

And in case your native camera app doesn’t support RAW, I’ll include a list of third-party apps that produce RAW photos.

Let’s get started.

What is smartphone RAW photography?

native camera smartphone RAW photography — RAW format on the left/JPEG format on the right (taken in the Huawei P20 Lite native camera app.)

A RAW file is the unprocessed version of a photo. When you take a photograph, the camera records all sorts of information.

Then, if it saves it in JPEG – which is the most common format – it will use only the information it needs and discard the rest.

After that process, there’s no way to recover the information that was thrown away. So you’ll have less dynamic range and fewer details in the highlights and shadows. (The loss of information will be more noticeable if you want to do extreme editing, which can lead to unpleasant artifacts such as banding.)

smartphone RAW photography in Lightroom Mobile — Both these images were taken using the Lightroom app on a Xiaomi Redmi 8. There’s faint color banding in the sky on the JPEG image (right).

Most camera manufacturers have proprietary RAW file formats. For example, Nikon cameras generate NEF files, Canon files are CRW, and so on.

DNG format was developed by Adobe as an open-source RAW file, so it’s more compatible and any manufacturer can use it. In smartphone photography, DNG is the most commonly used RAW format.

Should you shoot in RAW on a smartphone?

If you want to do serious mobile photography, then yes. Photographing in RAW gives you great flexibility when you edit your photos.

However, RAW files are 10 to 12 times bigger than JPEG files – and that’s a lot of storage space. So you might not want to shoot in RAW for every single picture that you take.

If it’s an option on your phone, save the images to an SD card instead of the internal memory. Another storage solution is to send your files to the cloud or transfer them to your computer to be backed up on an external hard drive.

How to shoot in RAW: Step by step

Not all phones support RAW format, and the ones that do have different ways of enabling it.

Here’s a step-by-step guide for the most common smartphone brands:

For Huawei shooters

These instructions reference a Huawei P20 Lite; however, the process should be the same on all Huawei models that support RAW photography.

First, open the camera app and scroll through the Mode menu until you reach Pro. Select this mode, and keep in mind that RAW shooting is not available in the other photo modes.

Open your camera Settings menu by tapping on the gear icon (this will be in the upper left corner if you’re shooting in landscape orientation and in the upper right corner if you’re shooting in portrait orientation):

Tap Resolution:

Then scroll to the bottom, where you’ll find the Photo Format section. Enable RAW format:

Then close the settings and snap your photo! As long as you’re in Pro mode, the images will be saved in RAW (plus a JPEG copy).

RAW files are saved in Files > Internal Storage > DCIM > Camera > RAW. You can review them in the gallery under More Albums > Others > RAW.

For iPhone shooters

Not all iPhones support RAW format in the native camera app. If your iPhone doesn’t shoot in RAW, you’ll have to use a third-party app. Look for recommendations at the end of this article.

However, the iPhone 12 Pro and the iPhone 12 Pro Max both support Apple ProRAW (they need to have iOS 14.3 or later, though).

To enable ProRAW, go to Settings > Camera > Formats. Under the Photo Capture section, you can turn on Apple ProRAW.

Once you have enabled this function, you’ll have the RAW option when you’re taking pictures. Simply tap to turn it on or off. (That way, you can shoot in different formats without having to go through the Settings menu every time.)

When you take a photo and RAW is on, it will be saved as a DNG file of about 25 MB. But if you turn ProRAW off, your iPhone will create a JPEG or HEIF file – whichever you have selected as the default.

For Samsung shooters

Keep in mind that not all Samsung devices will support RAW files. However, for the Samsung devices that do support smartphone RAW photography, here’s how to set it up:

Open the camera app and scroll the options bar until you find More.

In the More menu, you can see different modes. Tap on PRO.

Then open Camera Settings and scroll down to Save Options.

Enable Save RAW copies.

Once you’ve done this, all the pictures you take in PRO mode will be saved with a RAW copy – in every other mode, the images will still be JPEGs.

If you want to save a JPEG file when shooting in PRO, you need to go to the Camera Settings and disable the RAW option.

If your Samsung phone doesn’t support RAW files in the native camera app, you can always download another app to do so. You’ll find a list of recommendations at the end of the article.

Apps to shoot in RAW

As I explained above, not all smartphones offer RAW shooting in their native camera app. However, there are plenty of third-party apps that will let you work in RAW. Here’s a list of a few good ones:

Lightroom Mobile (for iOS and Android). The free limited version includes the RAW function, though you will need to create an Adobe account. Of course, if you have an Adobe Lightroom or an Adobe Photography subscription, you already have access to the full version of Lightroom Mobile.

Lightroom mobile shoot in RAW — In Lightroom Mobile, you just have to tap on the top of the screen to open the menu and switch between DNG (RAW) and JPEG.

VSCO (iOS and Android). The RAW function is only for iPhone 6 and later. Older devices and Android phones can use VSCO as a camera and editor but won’t be able to shoot in RAW.

ProShot (iOS and Android). The RAW function works only on compatible phones. To know if your phone supports ProShot RAW, you might want to do some research before purchasing it. The cost is $ 1.99.

ProCam (iOS). Works on iPhones with 12 MP cameras – that’s iPhone 6s and later. It supports RAW files in Auto and Manual mode.

On1Photo RAW (iOS and Android). Free. Supports RAW and JPEG formats in all photo modes.

Flannl RAW camera (iOS). Free.

Manual Camera Lite: Professional Camera DSLR (Android). This free version supports RAW format on some phones. You can upgrade to the PRO version, but it’s not necessary to capture photos in RAW.

Smartphone RAW photography: conclusion

As you can see, it’s very easy to do smartphone RAW photography, no matter your phone type. It may take a few extra taps, but it makes a world of difference!

Now over to you:

Have you tried shooting smartphone RAW photos? Have you noticed a difference compared to your JPEGs? Share your thoughts (and images!) in the comments below.

The post Smartphone RAW Photography: An Easy Way to Improve Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps

28 Mar

The post How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

In this article, I’m going to show you a step-by-step process for doing stunning silhouette photography.

I’m also going to share tips and tricks that work really, really well for silhouette shooting; that way, you can get gorgeous results as soon as possible.

So if you’re ready to discover the secrets to amazing silhouettes, let’s dive right in!

Silhouette photography: the basics

Silhouettes are a wonderful way to convey drama, mystery, emotion, and mood. They often stand out thanks to their simplicity as well as the story that they convey.

I love silhouettes because they don’t give a clear picture of the scene. Instead, they leave part of the image up to the viewer’s imagination.

Now, here’s the basic strategy for doing silhouette photography:

Place your subject (the shape you want to be blacked out) in front of a light source.

Then force your camera to set its exposure based on the brightest part of your picture (i.e., the background).

In doing this, your subject will be underexposed. It should turn very dark and sometimes even black.

There are a lot of very technical discussions surrounding silhouette photography and how to get a particular exposure. But I’d like to ignore the technical details and focus on what matters:

Getting you a great result!

So without further ado, let’s take a look at the step-by-step process for stunning silhouettes:

How to Photograph Silhouettes

Before heading out to shoot silhouettes, make sure you have a camera that lets you adjust the exposure. In other words, you should be able to brighten and darken the photo at will.

(All modern DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have this functionality and so do most smartphones.)

Step 1: Choose a strong subject

Almost any object can be made into a silhouette. However, some objects are better than others.

Choose something with a strong and recognizable shape that will be interesting enough in its two-dimensional form to hold the viewer’s attention.

Silhouettes can’t draw on the colors, textures, and tones of subjects to make themselves appealing, so the shape needs to be distinct.

Step 2: Turn off your flash

If you have your camera in Auto mode, it’ll probably use flash – and this will ruin the silhouette.

Basically, silhouette photography requires as little light as possible on the front of your subject.

So make sure that your flash is off!

silhouette photography man standing on a rock

Step 3: Get your light right

When it comes to lighting your subject, you’ll need to throw out a lot of what you’ve learned about normal photography and think a little backward.

Instead of lighting the front of your subject, you need to ensure that there is more light shining from the background than the foreground of your shot. Or to put it another way, you want to light the back of your subject rather than the front.

The perfect setup is to place your subject in front of a sunset or sunrise – but any bright light will do the trick.

Step 4: Frame your image

Frame your shot so you are shooting with your subject in front of a plain but bright background.

The best backgrounds are often a bright, cloudless sky with a setting sun.

You want to position the brightest light source behind your subject (so that it’s either hidden or somewhere in the background).

silhouetted person walking from rock to rock

Step 5: Make silhouetted shapes distinct and uncluttered

If there is more than one shape or object in the scene that you’re attempting to silhouette, try to keep them separated.

So if you’re making a silhouette from a tree plus a person, don’t position the person in front of the tree and don’t have the person lean against the tree, because this will merge the two shapes into one and cause confusion.

Also, when framing, you’ll probably want to photograph silhouetted people as profiles rather than looking straight on. That way, more of their features (nose, mouth, and eyes) are outlined, and the person becomes more recognizable.

Step 6: Feel free to start in Auto mode

Most modern digital cameras are pretty good at exposing a photo so everything is nice and bright.

The problem is that most cameras are a bit too smart; they’ll light up your main subject instead of underexposing it to get a silhouette.

So what do you do?

You trick your camera.

You see, Auto mode generally determines the exposure levels when you push the shutter button halfway down (at the same time that the camera focuses).

So point your camera at the brightest part of your scene, then press the shutter button halfway (and don’t let go!). Then move your camera back and frame your shot how you want it.

Finally, press the shutter button the rest of the way.

With most digital cameras, this will result in a silhouetted subject; by forcing your camera to expose for the brightest part of the scene, you cause it to render the main subject as a dark silhouette.

Note that some cameras also have a spot metering mode that helps with the above technique. Spot metering puts the exposure meter on the central part of your frame – so you can accurately tell your camera the exact portion of bright background you want to use to set the exposure.

Step 7: Manual mode

If the Auto mode technique doesn’t work, and if your camera has controls to allow manual exposure, you might want to adjust the settings manually.

A simple way to use Manual mode is to actually start in Auto. Point your camera at the brightest part of the sky, look at the shutter speed and aperture that your camera suggests, then switch over to Manual mode and dial in those settings.

Next, take a test shot and review it on your camera’s screen.

If your subject is too light (i.e., you need to make it darker), increase the shutter speed and see what happens. And if your subject is too dark, decrease the shutter speed to brighten up the shot.

Eventually, you’ll end up with a well-exposed silhouette!

(You can also use a bracketing technique to get a variety of shots at slightly different exposures.)

silhouette photography of a person holding a child

Step 8: Keep your subject sharp

In most cases, you’ll want your subject to be crisp and in focus.

Unfortunately, this can make the metering process – described in Step 6 – somewhat tricky. You see, pushing your shutter halfway down to get the metering right also means that you’ll focus on a spot in the background rather than your subject.

If you’ve used Manual mode, you can always focus on the background, acquire your exposure settings, dial them in, then refocus on your subject.

But if you prefer the Auto mode strategy, then you have two options.

First, if your camera has manual focusing, you can try prefocusing on your subject. Next, meter off the background (and press the shutter button halfway). Frame up your composition, then trigger the shutter.

Second, you can try adjusting the aperture to maximize your depth of field (i.e., the amount of your image that is in focus).

For this, you’ll need to set a small aperture (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16) to increase the depth of field. If the f-number is large enough, and your subject isn’t too close to the camera, you’ll end up with both a sharp subject and a sharp background, even if your camera is focused on the area behind your subject.

Bonus tip: try partial silhouette photography

While a total silhouette with a nice crisp, dark subject can be powerful, also consider a partial silhouette where some detail of your subject is left, such as in the photo below:

Sometimes, a touch of light makes the subject slightly more three-dimensional and real.

And if you’re not sure whether to create a full silhouette or a partial silhouette, that’s okay; just bracket your shots! That’s the beauty of bracketing: it will leave you with both total and partial silhouettes to choose from.

Silhouette photography: conclusion

Well, there you have it:

How to photograph a silhouette in eight simple steps.

So head out when the light is right – and start doing some silhouette photography of your own!

Now over to you:

Have any silhouette photos you’d like to share? Post them in the comments below! And if you need inspiration, check out these 12 amazing silhouette example shots.

The post How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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The Rule of Odds in Photography (An Easy Trick for Better Compositions)

03 Mar

The post The Rule of Odds in Photography (An Easy Trick for Better Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

When you create a photograph, you’re hoping to manipulate the mind of your viewer.

While photos are simple, two-dimensional representations of reality, you – as the photographer – hope to let the viewer see what you saw, feel what you felt, and experience the world as you did.

And that’s what the rule of odds in photography is all about:

Tapping into the brain of the viewer to create a more pleasing composition.

So if you’d like to make better photos, read on!

The rule of odds in photography - three tulips — The choice of three tulips for this shot was very purposeful. I tapped into the rule of odds!

What is the rule of odds in photography?

The rule of odds states that, whenever possible, a composition should have an odd number of objects, not an even number of objects. So an image should have three flowers rather than two, and five people rather than four.

Why?

The rule of odds taps into the brain’s propensity to create order.

You see, when viewing a group of objects, we unconsciously want to group them in pairs.

But when we’re faced with three, five, or seven objects in a photograph…

…we have a group that can’t be easily organized.

With an odd number of objects, one may become dominant. At the very least, the viewer will look longer at the image, moving between the individual elements.

That is the power of the rule of odds in photography:

It creates a composition that makes the viewer’s brain work a little harder and look a little longer.

The rule of odds in photography - three umbrellas — Three repeating shapes play to the rule of odds. You can line them up…

three flowers in an implied triangle — …or arrange them to form an implied triangle, as with these three flowers.

Three, five, or seven objects can work well.

Once you move beyond these single-digit numbers, we tend to treat all of the objects as a group – even if they’re odd.

the rule of odds in photography - five bottles — Five objects also adhere to the rule of odds!

Creating compositions with the rule of odds

Certain genres of photography give you, the photographer, complete power over your composition.

So you can arrange and compose your scene to include an odd number of subjects.

You can also arrange the odd number of subjects in pleasing ways; for instance, you can include strong compositional elements such as lines and triangles. In fact, these compositional tools are one more way to tap into the viewer’s brain as it works to find lines and patterns.

Often in still life compositions, we have the ability to arrange our subjects, choosing what, where, and how many objects are placed.

And that makes it easy to apply the rule of odds, as I did in the photo below:

rule of odds still life with lantern — When you set up a still life photo, you have full control over what to include and exclude. Here, the lantern, gloved hand, and pickaxe are the three key elements in this composition, so it follows the rule of odds.

Of course, it’s not enough to think only about the number of objects. You still need to think about natural pairs, because while a cup, a saucer, and a spoon might make a pleasing composition, a cup, a saucer, and a screwdriver would likely puzzle your viewer – even though it follows the rule of odds!

violin, music, and flower still life — It was no accident that I chose a stem of flowers with three roses. And note the three objects in this light-painted still life: the violin, the sheet music, and the flowers.

Flowers can make great subjects for tapping into the rule of odds. If you are arranging the flowers in the scene yourself, think about using a group of three or five rather than an even number.

If you’re shooting flowers in nature, perhaps you can frame your shot to include an odd number of subjects. (You could also clone out a flower afterward.)

three flowers together — This was a matter of framing the shot to include just these three flowers.

three leaves with water droplets — In this case, I framed the shot to only include three leaves.

tree before a lake — This triple-trunked tree was a perfect rule of odds subject.

The rule of odds for other subjects

Out in nature, perhaps shooting landscapes, you usually don’t have the option of moving around subjects.

Instead, spend time exploring your scene – and find compositions that take advantage of the rule of odds in photography.

When shooting outdoors, see what you can do to create compositions with an odd number of major objects, be it mountain peaks, trees, rocks, or clouds.

Note that you can still apply the rule during post-processing; if you have four elements instead of three, you can always clone one out, as I did in the image below:

four birds cloned down to three — The three posts worked well for this rule of odds shot, but four birds were on the front post. No problem; just clone one out! Do you agree that three is better than four?

Whether you’re composing in the field or editing on your computer, the rule will usually still apply. An odd number of objects will create a stronger image.

three seagulls for the rule of odds — There was a whole flock of gulls perched on this fence, but cropping down to just these three let me follow the rule of odds.

the rule of odds in photography - three Canada geese — This shot was mostly about the great reflections in the water, but the three geese worked with the rule of odds and enhanced the story.

groups of rocks on the sand — Three or five? The top shot was the original composition. There are six rocks, but because two of them are closely grouped, you could consider them five objects. Still, I think the cropped version – with just three rocks – is better.

seascape with huge rocks — When you can’t move objects, such as in landscape photography, you can still take advantage of the rule of odds. Just keep it in mind when composing your shot.

four trees on the left and three trees on the right — The simpler shot at the right has just three objects. It works better than the shot at the left with four.

windows in a row of five — The same goes for architectural photography. Here, the five-in-a-row repetition works well.

the rule of odds in photography -three bikers in a race — We’re used to a first, second, and third place winner in sporting events. So not only did the rule of odds improve the composition, but it also helped tell a story!

The original shot contained six kayak racers. I cloned one out to drop the count to five.

Exceptions to the rule

Do photography for a while, and you’ll hear all kinds of “rules” – the rule of thirds, the reciprocal rule, the left-to-right rule, and all manner of other compositional and camera operation rules.

Of course, there are always exceptions to the rules. And there are times when it’s good to break the rules for an even better composition.

So when should you break the rule of odds?

First, when photographing people, you shouldn’t always stick to the rule. If you’re shooting a couple, then it wouldn’t make sense to have a third person (and this, in fact, would lend a new meaning to the rule of “odds”).

Of course, should that couple have a child, great; the group of three would make a nice rule of odds composition. Then, if the couple were to have another child, you’ll have to find a different way to pose them that works around the rule of odds.

Here’s another time to break the rule of odds:

If you’re taking a photo of Mount Rushmore. Who are you going to leave out to adhere to the rule of odds?

Therefore, the rule of odds should be like the rule of thirds. Use it when it works to enhance your composition, but don’t feel constrained by it if your subject just doesn’t permit its use.

five men in front of a train — It was just luck that this group consisted of five guys, but it was helpful for composing the shot.

three police officers with lights and guns — Triple threat. There just happened to be three individuals in this group, and who was I to argue?

The odd one

Perhaps you’ve heard the song on Sesame Street, “One of these things is not like the others.” It’s a little game the show uses to teach children observational thinking.

Well, you can play a similar game with the mind of a viewer.

Simply seek out scenes and compositions where something in the image is odd, different, out of place, or doesn’t match.

Such images can be powerful. They engage the mind of your viewer, drawing attention to the odd object and making your viewer look a little longer at your photo.

The rule of odds in photography - one dark tree in front of lighter rows of trees — Which of these things is not like the others? The nonconformist tree makes for a more interesting image.

Does the power of an “odd one out” image have anything to do with the number of objects in your photo? It might, or it might not. Perhaps it doesn’t conform to the standard definition of the rule of odds.

Still, it’s a powerful technique, and a great way to make captivating photos that engage your viewer.

The rule of odds in photography - one pink flower surrounded by yellow flowers — Where does your eye immediately go in this shot? Yeah, I confess that I colored the one flower pink – but the point is that the odd one out immediately becomes the focus of attention.

The rule of odds in photography: Final words

When someone tells you your photos are odd, take that as a compliment!

Seriously, they aren’t likely to say that, but if you can find ways to embrace the rule of odds in photography, you will have another trick in your bag.

Not only is it hip to be square, but it’s also cool to be odd!

Now over to you:

What do you think of the rule of odds? Will you try it out in your compositions? Do you have any rule of odds photos that you’re proud of? Share your thoughts and images in the comments below!

What is the rule of odds?

The rule of odds states that an odd number of objects in a photograph (3,5,7, etc.) will be more engaging to the viewer than an even number of objects.

In what kind of photography is the rule of odds most easily used?

Probably still life photography, where you have full control over the number of objects in your shot and how they are arranged.

Can I use the rule of odds in landscape photography?

Yes, you often can! Even when you can’t move objects in your scene, you can carefully compose and frame your image to capitalize on an odd number of subjects.
Sometimes, you can also crop your image in editing or add/remove objects to create an odd number of subjects.

What is the “odd one out” method of composition?

A good technique can be to look for things that break the norm or “stand out” because they’re different from the rest of a photo. Such objects will immediately draw the viewer’s eye and become the focal point in your photo. Think of a red flower in a field of yellow ones, a fork in a line of spoons, and maybe a baby chick in a carton of eleven eggs, and you’ll get the idea.

The post The Rule of Odds in Photography (An Easy Trick for Better Compositions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

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EaseUS Data Recovery Review: Fast, Powerful, and Easy to Use

06 Jan

The post EaseUS Data Recovery Review: Fast, Powerful, and Easy to Use appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

If you’ve ever deleted photos, videos, or documents by accident…

…then you know how important it is to have good data recovery software on hand.

Unfortunately, not all recovery software works as promised – which is why you have to be extra-careful when purchasing.

But what about EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard? It’s a popular recovery program, but can you trust it to bring back your precious files?

That’s what this article is all about.

I put EaseUS Data Recovery to the test, and I share all my findings with you. And honestly, it’s worth stating up front that EaseUS Data Recovery works really, really well. While I’ll share details with you later on in this review, I’d like to emphasize a few facts:

First, EaseUS is remarkably fast.

Second, it’s packed full of useful features for sorting and locating photo and video files.

And third:

It does a great job (flawless, in my experience!) recovering deleted media.

So to learn more about EaseUS Data Recovery, including what it can do, where you can purchase it, and how you can use it to recover your files…

…read on.

What can EaseUS Data Recovery software do?

EaseUS Data Recovery software offers a quick and easy way to recover deleted files.

Specifically, you can use it to bring back desktop data that you’ve accidentally deleted, memory card files that you’ve formatted, or video files that you forgot to backup then deleted off your card.

In other words:

If you’ve lost your files through some method of accidental deletion, EaseUS Data Recovery can likely get them back.

EaseUS offers a huge list of file types you can recover with their recovery wizard, including plenty of photo file types (JPEGs, TIFFs, PNGs, CRWs, NEFs, ORFs, and DNGs, among others) and video file types (MP3s, WAVs, MPGs, WMVs, etc.), as well as document file types, audio file types, and more.

Also note that EaseUS can go beyond recovery in select cases. The software can actually repair corrupted JPEGs, MP4, and MOV files, though this functionality unfortunately doesn’t extend to RAW files.

Now let’s take a look at how to actually use the EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard to resurrect your lost files:

How to use EaseUS: A quick guide

EaseUS is impressively simple to use.

Start by installing the EaseUS software, which you can grab off the EaseUS website here for PC and here for Mac.

Once you have the software set up, you’ll be prompted to select the location to target for recovery:

selecting a location to recover files from

Just hover over the relevant location, then click Scan:

click Scan to begin the recovery process

The scanning process will begin immediately, where EaseUS searches the targeted location for any and all files, including corrupted and deleted photos.

You’ll see a countdown at the bottom of the screen that gives you an estimated scan time.

And files will begin to appear in the EaseUS window as they’re identified for recovery.

If you like, you can let the scan continue until completion, but you also have the option to recover already-discovered files. In other words, you can let the scan run in the background while you recover the files already present in the EaseUS window.

Eventually, you’ll need to select the files you’d like to recover. Just hit the check mark next to the file names:

Then select Recover:

If you’d only like to recover certain files, you have the option to filter specific file types via tags:

Or filter specific file types via the Filter option:

In fact, you can get even more granular with the Advanced Filter; simply open the Filter menu, then click Advanced Filter:

And select your filter options to bring up specific files while scanning:

After you hit the Recover button, you’ll be prompted to select a location to store the recovered files:

select where to store your recovered files

Hit OK, and you can watch the progress bar as your files are recovered:

EaseUS data recovery review progress bar

Once the recovery is complete, EaseUS will automatically launch the location with your recovered files. You can also click the View Recovered button to launch the location manually:

Then you can immediately access your recovered files!

How does EaseUS Data Recovery perform?

I tested EaseUS Data Recovery with a formatted memory card of my own, and it performed flawlessly. When I’d finished the recovery process, I had access to every one of my photos (all in perfect condition!).

Of course, it’s impossible for me to test every scenario and every file type, but my Olympus RAW images came back safe and sound, and I’m confident that EaseUS could effortlessly handle plenty of other situations.

I was handily impressed by the ease of recovery. The process was remarkably simple and took literally zero fumbling around with the software. And I was also pleased by the speed of recovery, because while some recovery software takes hours upon hours to scan and recover photos, EaseUS had all 20+ deleted photos ready for recovery within five to ten seconds. The recovery process itself took thirty seconds at most.

Since I was just recovering Olympus RAW images from an SD card, I didn’t have much use for the filtering functions. But if you’re looking to recover select media from an entire hard drive of files, filtering is invaluable – it’ll let you find and select the files you’re after, without having to waste precious time going through the entire set of recovered items. And I’m a huge fan of the “recover while scanning” option, which allows you to recover already-discovered items while EaseUS continues to scan the drive. When I was testing the software, I didn’t have to wait for the entire deep scan to finish. Instead, I started recovering images as soon as EaseUS identified them.

A word of caution: There are times when EaseUS Data Recovery will fail; that’s just the nature of recovery software. If your photos or videos are too far gone, even the best recovery software won’t be able to piece them back together.

For instance, if you fill up a memory card, format it, and fill it up again, the first set of images will almost certainly be unrecoverable, which is why you should always, always, always have a proper backup system from the beginning. And if you ever find yourself with a formatted memory card that needs recovering, do not, under any circumstances, overwrite that card with new images.

But here’s the bottom line:

EaseUS did a fantastic job recovering my images, and I wouldn’t hesitate to use EaseUS to deal with accidental file deletion of any type.

EaseUS Data Recovery: Plans and pricing

EaseUS offers three editions for PC users:

First, there’s the Free edition, which allows you to recover up to 2 GB of media. If you’ve accidentally deleted a handful of images, this may be enough.

The Pro edition offers unlimited data recovery, plus you get support from EaseUS specialists, all for $ 69.95 USD. This is perfect for most users, assuming you can boot up your drive.

Finally, there’s the Pro+Bootable Media edition, which offers everything included in the Pro edition, plus the capability to recover files from a crashed drive, all for $ 99.90 USD. This is the edition to purchase if you cannot get your drive to run.

Mac users also have access to the Free edition. Then there’s a Pro edition for Mac, which offers the functionality of the PC Pro+Bootable Media edition in a comprehensive, $ 89.95 USD package.

Who should get EaseUS Data Recovery?

If you’ve accidentally deleted photos or videos, then EaseUS Data Recovery is a fantastic solution.

It’ll bring back any recoverable files quickly and efficiently – and it’ll even let you sort through the files for easy access.

So if you’ve lost photos or videos on a memory card, a flash drive, a hard drive, or your desktop, I highly recommend you grab this EaseUS software. If the files can be recovered, then EaseUS will get it done!

You can purchase a version of EaseUS right here for PC users and right here for Mac users.

EaseUS is a paid partner of dPS.

The post EaseUS Data Recovery Review: Fast, Powerful, and Easy to Use appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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Stellar Photo Recovery Software Review: An Easy Way to Reclaim Your Precious Photos

07 Dec

The post Stellar Photo Recovery Software Review: An Easy Way to Reclaim Your Precious Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Have you ever accidentally deleted photos or videos from your memory cards? Or, even worse, have you ever formatted your card, and only then realize it contained valuable photos or videos?

It happens to the best of us.

In fact, if you’ve never experienced either of the above situations, consider yourself lucky. Because while digital files are convenient, they’re all too easy to lose – and if you don’t have the right recovery software, those files will be gone forever.

That’s where Stellar Photo Recovery comes in.

You see, Stellar Photo Recovery offers an impressive set of DIY recovery tools for photographers and videographers; according to the website, you can recover almost any file on almost any device. And you can purchase a package that lets you repair corrupted files, which is tremendously useful for situations where your photos or videos have been damaged.

But how does Stellar Photo Recovery perform? Does it work as well as advertised? And how do you use it for file recovery?

That’s what this article is all about.

In it, I put Stellar Photo Recovery to the test, using some formatted memory cards of my own.

And I share all my findings with you.

So to find out whether Stellar Photo Recovery is a worthy purchase…

(Spoiler alert: The software works incredibly well!)

…keep reading.

Stellar Photo Recovery: Why might you need it?

Stellar Photo Recovery is a DIY recovery package, designed to help you find and recover lost photos, videos, and audio files.

But why, specifically, might you need Stellar Photo Recovery?

Imagine you’re out taking pictures and fill up several cards. You go home, download all the photos to your storage drives, and then – as many photographers do – format every card in-camera.

Moments later, you feel a dawning sense of horror, as you realize that you failed to transfer the photos from one of the now formatted cards.

At this point, your hard-earned photos are deleted, the card has been wiped, and your only real option is recovery software.

That’s just one of the many ways you could accidentally delete photos and videos. You could also format a hard drive and realize it had photos you needed. Or you could stick a full memory card into your camera while out shooting, format it, then suddenly realize that you hadn’t transferred the previous photos over to your storage drives. Or you could clear a flash drive, then realize it had valuable media that you needed for a client.

You could also end up with corrupted files thanks to faulty memory cards or old drives or viruses.

If you’ve been doing photography for a while, then you’re probably aware:

This sort of thing happens all the time. If it hasn’t happened to you yet, then it will, because it’s just the nature of having lots of easy-to-wipe memory cards. You’ll make a mistake.

And when you do, you’ll want to have software like Stellar Photo Recovery.

Right off the bat, you’ll be impressed by the sheer volume of scenarios Stellar Photo Recovery can handle. You’ve got the option to recover:

A whole host of image file formats, including Canon RAW files, Fujifilm RAW files, Sony RAW files, Nikon RAW files, Olympus RAW files, Pentax RAW files, Panasonic RAW files, JPEGs, TIFFs, GIFs, PNGs, and PSDs, plus quite a few others
Lots of video formats, including MP4, AVI, MPEG, AVI, 3GP, and so much more
Audio file formats, including MP3, WAV, MIDI, M4P, and AU

And you can do your recovery on a bevy of storage devices, including CF cards, SD cards of every kind, XQD cards, flash drives, HDD drives, and more (even if the drives are encrypted).

Plus, it doesn’t matter whether you’ve deleted individual files or simply formatted the storage device, because Stellar Photo Recovery can deal with both.

Honestly, if you’ve lost any type of photo, video, or audio to deletion or corruption, Stellar Photo Recovery Software probably has you covered.

Using Stellar Photo Recovery: A simple, three-step process

Using Stellar Photo Recovery is incredibly easy.

Once you have the software downloaded on your computer (you can grab your copy here), you’ll simply need to follow a three-step process:

Step 1: Select the drive in need of recovery, and hit “Scan”

When you first open Stellar Photo Recovery, you’ll see a list of all accessible drives:

Stellar Photo Recovery software review folders

By placing a checkmark next to the location you need to recover files from, you’re telling the software where to look. To save time on the scan, I’d recommend checking only the precise drive/memory card on which your files originally existed.

Then hit Scan:

As soon as you’ve done this, the software will start checking your drive for any and all media. This might take a while, depending on the size of your drive; I used a 32 GB SD card for my test, and the scan lasted around 30 minutes.

You can minimize the window while you wait and leave it scanning in the background.

By the way, if you’re in a hurry, you can always shorten the scan time by heading into the Advanced Settings menu:

And clicking on File List:

You’ll then see a list of all file types you can recover. By checking the files you’re after, you’re telling Stellar Photo Recovery where to focus its search.

Neat, right?

Step 2: Go through your recoverable files and select the ones you’d like to restore

Once the scan is complete, the software will report the number and size of the files it found:

Stellar will show you what it found when scanning

Then you can go through the folders and preview files for recovery (not all file types will offer previews, but my Olympus RAW files showed up nice and clear).

Stellar Photo Recovery software review RAW files

By putting a checkmark next to a file, you indicate that you’d like to recover it:

So make sure you do this with all relevant files.

Step 3: Hit “Recover” and watch as your images appear!

Once you’ve checked off all the files you want to recover, hit the Recover button:

Then select the folder where you’d like to save the recovered files:

Choose where to save your recovered photos

Finally, click Start Saving.

You can then watch (in the Saving Data window) as your files are recovered and saved. This isn’t a long process; each RAW image I recovered took about one second to save, which means that you can recover quite a few images in a minute or two.

Then, if you go to the folder where you’ve saved the files, you’ll see them completely intact and unharmed.

One nice additional feature here is the ability to go back and recover different photos, even once you’ve done one recovery sweep. So if you accidentally recovered the wrong files, you can just go back into the list of recoverable media and check off a different set of files – without having to scan the drive again.

What’s even nicer is that you can save your scan data when you exit Stellar Photo Recovery. So if you’re tired of recovering images and want to continue later, you can work from a previously-scanned drive without needing to go through the whole process again.

Stellar Photo Recovery: Performance

Speaking as a longtime photographer, I’m always worried about losing my photos.

Yet I’ve never managed to find any recovery software that I really, truly trust, especially because there’s all sorts of dodgy options out there that aren’t worth the money.

But I am genuinely so impressed by Stellar Photo Recovery. It’s easy to set up, easy to use, and it works amazingly well. I tested it out on a 32 GB SD card that was full of Olympus RAW files. The card had been formatted twice in recent days – but Stellar Photo Recovery managed to bring back every photo from before the second wipe, and what appeared to be all 400+ photos from before the first wipe, all in perfect condition.

The most difficult thing about Stellar Photo Recovery is the waiting – as I explained above, the scan takes some time. But you don’t have to babysit the software, so you can easily get the scan started, go do something else, and come back in 30 minutes or so.

Now, I do think it’s important to be up front, here:

I didn’t try to restore any corrupted files, and my sense is that Stellar Photo Recovery works here but won’t always do a perfect job. So it’s certainly worth using for that sort of thing, but while recognizing that repairing corrupt files is inherently difficult and might not happen.

Also recognize that the more you overwrite files, the more Stellar Photo Recovery will struggle to recover the originals.

In other words:

Don’t take pictures, format the card, take more pictures, and only then try to recover the originals; instead, make sure any accidentally-formatted cards are immediately put aside for recovery.

If you don’t do this, your results will vary, depending on the amount of new photos you took.

Make sense?

Ultimately, I’m now a huge fan of Stellar Photo Recovery. And I guarantee it’ll be the software I turn to the next time I lose images.

Stellar Photo Recovery: Pricing

There are three Stellar Photo Recovery packages (all are available for both Mac and Windows):

The Standard package, which costs $ 39.99 for a one-year subscription, and offers complete recovery capabilities, but cannot repair corrupted files.

The Professional package, which costs $ 49.99 for a one-year subscription, and offers complete recovery capabilities plus the ability to repair corrupted photo files.

And the Premium package, which costs $ 69.99 for a one-year subscription, and offers complete recovery capabilities, the ability to repair corrupted photo files, plus the ability to repair corrupted video files.

Stellar Photo Recovery software review pricing

Which should you get?

If you’re just looking to recover deleted files, the Standard package will work just fine.

But if you have corrupted image files, then the Professional package is a must.

And if you have corrupted video files, you’ll want to go for the Premium option.

So make sure to grab your version of Stellar Photo Recovery software here.

Who should get Stellar Photo Recovery?

Stellar Photo Recovery is a fantastic option for photographers and videographers looking to recover files.

It’s simple to use, its performance is impeccable, and I can’t recommend it enough.

So the next time you find yourself needing to perform file recovery or repair…

…turn to Stellar Photo Recovery.

Stellar is a paid partner of dPS.

The post Stellar Photo Recovery Software Review: An Easy Way to Reclaim Your Precious Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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