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Shallow Depth of Field: How to Get It in Your Photos (5 Easy Ways)

07 Oct

The post Shallow Depth of Field: How to Get It in Your Photos (5 Easy Ways) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

What is shallow depth of field photography? And how can you create it for beautiful, pro-level effects?

In this article, I’ll share everything you need to know about shallow depth of field, including:

What shallow depth of field actually is
Why shallow depth of field is useful in photography
Five easy ways to create that gorgeous shallow depth of field effect

In fact, here’s my guarantee: By the time you leave, you’ll be a shallow DOF expert.

Sound good? Let’s dive right in, starting with a simple definition:

What is a shallow depth of field in photography?

A shallow depth of field refers to an effect where very little of the image is in focus.

For instance, an image might include an in-focus subject, but have a blurred-out background. This is common in portrait photography (and if you look through this article, you’ll notice that my shallow depth of field examples are all portraits for this very reason!).

A shallow depth of field contrasts with a deep depth of field, where the entire shot, from foreground to background, remains in focus. Deep depth of field effects are common in landscape photography, where detail is a key compositional element.

Why is a shallow depth of field effect important?

Plenty of photographers love shallow depth of field effects – for two big reasons:

A shallow depth of field separates the subject from the background, helping the subject stand out.
A shallow depth of field generally blurs the background, which looks really gorgeous (when done right, that is!).

Often, a shallow depth of field is a stylistic choice, one that certain photographers tend to prefer and other photographers like to avoid.

Here’s a list of genres that gravitate toward shallow DOF effects:

Portrait photography
Wildlife photography
Street photography (sometimes)
Fashion photography
Product photography (sometimes)

Of course, this list isn’t exhaustive, and regardless, don’t feel hemmed in. If you prefer shallow depth of field but you shoot landscapes, that’s okay – do what you like!

How to get a shallow depth of field effect: 5 techniques

Now let’s take a look at how you can create shallow depth of field effects in your photos:

1. Increase the subject-background distance

It’s one of the easiest ways to achieve a shallow depth of field effect:

Position your subject as far away from any background objects as possible.

If your subject is standing right in front of a wall, it’ll be in focus no matter what you do. But if they’re standing 100 meters in front of that same wall, it’s going to be a lot more blurry. Think of it as giving your background more room to blur.

Quick note: Technically, increasing the distance between the subject and the background doesn’t make the depth of field more shallow. The depth of field remains the same regardless (it depends on other factors that I discuss below).

But bringing your subject forward increases the appearance of a shallow depth of field and gives you a near-equivalent effect.

shallow depth of field photography woman smiling

2. Use your camera’s Portrait mode

These days, most beginner cameras include a little wheel on top with lots of little icons on it – the Mode dial.

And on certain beginner models, the Mode dial will feature Scene modes, such as Landscape, Night, Sports, etc.

Generally, one of these modes is Portrait. And if you’re uncomfortable using more advanced modes (such as Aperture Priority or Manual mode), Portrait mode is a good way to decrease the depth of field; it sets a large aperture (discussed in the next section!), which will make the depth of field smaller.

Now, Portrait mode doesn’t offer any control over your depth of field effect, so I only recommend you use it if you feel completely lost or have no intention of learning basic camera settings.

And if you do want to gain more control, check out the next method of creating shallow depth of field:

3. Widen your lens’s aperture

Every lens includes an aperture – essentially a hole – that widens or narrows depending on your camera’s aperture setting.

And the wider the aperture, the shallower the depth of field.

Portrait mode will automatically widen your aperture. But if you want a greater level of control, I’d recommend using either Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, which allow you to dial in your preferred aperture (then watch as the background is blurred).

If you’ve never set the aperture before, know that small numbers, such as f/1.8 and f/2.8, correspond to a wide aperture (and hence a shallow depth of field). Large numbers, such as f/16 and f/22, correspond to a narrow aperture (and a deep depth of field).

For ultra-shallow depth of field effects, stick to f/2.8 and wider if possible, though your aperture capabilities will depend on your lens (because all lenses have an aperture maximum).

shallow depth of field photography man with camera

In fact, if you like the idea of adjusting the aperture to achieve the perfect depth of field effect, I highly recommend you put your camera on Aperture Priority mode, find a subject, and test out a handful of different apertures. Then review each photo carefully, paying attention to how the aperture setting affects the depth of field.

4. Use a long lens (and get close to your subject)

The closer you get to your subject, both optically – by using a long lens – and physically – by moving toward your subject – the shallower the depth of field and the better the background blur.

That’s why the best shallow depth of field portraits tend to be taken on an 85mm lens or a 70-200mm lens, not a 50mm or 35mm lens. The longer focal length makes it easier to get close, which in turn decreases the depth of field. Make sense?

However, if you only own a 35mm lens, don’t worry; you can still create a shallow DOF. You simply need to get close to your subject. Yes, it might be a bit uncomfortable if you’re photographing people – you’ll be shooting from right in front of their face! – but the results will be worth it.

By the way, longer lenses have another advantage over shorter lenses:

They compress the background. The actual effect is difficult to explain, but it leads to a smoother background blur and the appearance of a shallow depth of field.

So if possible, shoot your images from up close – and use a long lens, too. (Don’t get crazy with your focal length, though, especially if you’re photographing people; if you go over 200mm or so, you’ll be forced to back up ridiculously far, which can become unmanageable, plus you’ll lose a level of photographer-subject intimacy.)

5. Get a wide-aperture lens

Previously, I explained that a wide aperture leads to outstanding shallow depth of field effects. I also mentioned that some lenses feature a maximum aperture.

So if you’re serious about achieving a shallow depth of field, a lens with a wide aperture (known as a fast lens) is your friend.

Unfortunately, fast lenses tend to be expensive, but they can also be worth the investment. Plus, there are a few fast primes – such as a 50mm f/1.8 – that are optically impressive, capable of beautiful background blur, and are also quite cheap.

(Fast lenses also let you shoot in low light, which is a major bonus.)

By the way, some lenses offer better background blur than others. So before purchasing, I recommend reading reviews of possible lenses (or at least viewing sample images). Good reviewers will discuss background blur (also known as bokeh), and you can determine whether the lens is right for you.

woman on a subway platform portrait shallow DOF

Shallow depth of field: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about shallow depth of field and how to create it.

So head out with your camera. See if you can get some beautiful depth of field effects. Try out the methods I’ve suggested.

And have fun!

Now over to you:

Which of these methods is your favorite? Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Shallow Depth of Field: How to Get It in Your Photos (5 Easy Ways) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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How to Use Foreground to Create Depth in Your Images

28 Feb

The post How to Use Foreground to Create Depth in Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.

how to use foreground to create depth in your photos

What is the foreground, and how can you use it for stunning photos?

That’s what this article is all about.

I’m going to show you how you can identify and incorporate strong foreground elements in your photography – so that you end up with beautiful landscape shots, architectural shots, nature shots, and more.

And I’m going to explain my favorite way to use foregrounds:

To create depth.

(It’s a technique I use all the time in my own images, as you’ll soon see.)

So if you’re ready to become a foreground photography expert…

…let’s get started!

Cannon Beach, Oregon in the fog with sand ripples in the foreground to create depth

What is a foreground?

When you’re photographing a grand landscape scene, you can often divide it into three sections:

The background.

The middle ground.

And the foreground.

The foreground consists of anything that lies between you and your main subject.

Then there’s the middle ground, which is often the subject (i.e., the main point of interest in the photo).

And the background is made up of everything behind the subject.

Now, the foreground, middle ground, and background areas are not at fixed distances. They’re understood relative to one another.

For example, the scene below contains some colorful shrubs in the foreground, a pond in the middle ground, and trees in the background:

Another way to think about this is using a stage.

You have upstage, toward the back – that’s the background. It gives setting and context.

Center stage is the middle ground, where the bulk of the action takes place.

And downstage – the foreground – is closest to the audience, and therefore the most intimate part of a scene. Downstage is capable of whispering to the audience and luring them into the action. It is the most easily seen and heard part of the theater, and it can reveal the finer details of the story.

Trona Pinnacles, California with a nice foreground to create depth

One thing to note:

While many photos – especially landscape photos – contain a foreground, a middle ground, and a background, not all photos are so layered. Some images include only a foreground and a background. Others have no layers at all.

How should you use the foreground?

In general, you don’t want an empty foreground.

Instead, you should fill the foreground with some key point of interest, such as a human figure, a tree, a boat, some flowers, rocks, or anything else that is comparatively near to you.

So when you’re out shooting, once you’ve found a nice background, check the area around you for a good foreground element.

Then include that element in your composition!

(You may need a wide-angle lens for this; that’s how I captured most of the photos in this article.)

For instance, when capturing the photo below, I used the beautiful sky as my background, and the colorful rocks as my foreground element:

Green Point, Newfoundland with rocks in the foreground

One tip:

Don’t be afraid to change your perspective! If you find a nice foreground that won’t fit into the scene, try moving your camera higher, lower, or to one side to incorporate the foreground into the frame.

Why is a foreground so important?

A strong foreground is one of the simplest ways to create deep, three-dimensional photos.

You see, one of the biggest hurdles in photography is that majestic, three-dimensional scenes are rendered into mere two-dimensional images; the physical depth that the photographer experiences in real life is lost.

So how do you create the illusion of depth?

With strong elements in the foreground!

When you’re composing a photo and it’s looking a little too flat, simply adding some foreground interest can instantly improve depth.

For example, imagine a group of trees in a field, all standing in a row. If you photograph them head-on, they’ll look more or less identical – their size, distance, and sharpness will be the same, and the composition will likely be a flat, static one.

However, if you change your perspective and shoot the trees from one side, everything changes. One tree becomes closer and therefore larger, while the other trees shrink in comparison.

Like this:

When a viewer sees the image, their eyes will immediately fall on the tree in the foreground first, and the implied line created by the row will pull their gaze inward toward the other trees. Suddenly, the composition has depth!

Now, scenes can have many potential foreground elements. For instance, you can lower your camera to incorporate rocks, flowers, or anything else on the ground. That use of foreground will provide a point for the viewer’s eyes to enter the image, and any lines created in the foreground will direct the viewer’s gaze toward the middle ground and background.

Tips for using a foreground in photography

As with any compositional element, the foreground is only helpful if it adds to your image. If the foreground doesn’t help tell the story or – worse yet – it distracts the eye, then it isn’t going to improve the photo. Your foreground should be an important part of the scene and not a distraction.

Foreground elements can even be made of simple shapes and lines, like the foreground in the photo above.

In fact, your foreground elements can be nothing but shapes and lines, such as the paint on a stretch of road, the waves on the ocean’s shore, or the shadows cast across a windswept desert. Any lines that point toward your subject will be especially effective because they will guide the viewer toward the main attraction.

(Lines that point toward your subject are known as leading lines; these are a powerful compositional device!)

Similarly, a wall that stretches from foreground to background will carry the eye along with it. The corners of your frame are strong points, and anything that leads inward from these corners will have a significant impact.

Textures are another compositional tool that can make for an interesting foreground, like in the photo below:

sunset with rocks in the foreground for enhanced depth

Ultimately, however, the best foregrounds are those that you like the most!

So test out different foregrounds.

Experiment.

And capture some shots that are full of depth!

Using foreground to create depth: Conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be well-equipped to create stunning, depth-filled images.

You know how to find powerful foregrounds.

And you know how to position them for gorgeous results.

So have fun with foreground photography!

Now over to you:

What do you think about using foregrounds to create depth? Do you plan to use this trick the next time you go out shooting? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Use Foreground to Create Depth in Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.

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7 Tips – How to Add Depth and Dimension into Your Photos

16 Feb

The post 7 Tips – How to Add Depth and Dimension into Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

How can you add depth in photography? And how can you make your photos look stunningly three-dimensional?

Depth helps create a sense of place, and it draws the viewer into your images. Plus, it’s a great way to take your compositions to the next level, fast.

In this article, you’ll find seven techniques and tips, all designed to help you convey a stronger sense of depth in your photos.

Let’s get started!

1. Use leading lines

Here’s one of the easiest ways to convey depth in photography:

Use a wide-angle lens and include leading lines that move from the bottom of the frame to the top.

This technique is mainly used in landscape and architectural photos, but you can also incorporate leading lines into portraits, street shots, and more.

The lines don’t have to be obvious. For instance, take a look at this photo:

how to add depth and dimension in photography seascape long exposure

The rocks form natural lines that lead the eye from the foreground to the island on the horizon.

how to add depth and dimension in photography leading lines

This photo has a similarly subtle set of leading lines:

The waterways in the middle distance lead the eye to the mountains. But the lines are meandering, rather than straight, which helps give the image a more organic feel – one that fits well with the theme of the landscape.

2. Use perspective

This photo demonstrates how lines can add depth in a different way:

how to add depth and dimension in photography with perspective

The buildings form converging lines that disappear towards the horizon, creating an effective sense of depth.

Note that this technique is similar to an artist’s use of perspective. I’ve added an overlay so you can see how it works:

how to add depth and dimension in composition with perspective

3. Think foreground, middle ground, and background

Most photographers are familiar with the rule of thirds, but when it comes to conveying a sense of depth, it is helpful to break the photo up into a different set of thirds:

The foreground, middle ground, and background.

What you’re looking for is a way of connecting each portion of the photo while pulling the viewer’s eye from foreground to background. Having three zones in the image – zones that are distinct but linked – will help create a sense of depth and three-dimensionality.

Leading lines are one way of linking the three zones, but lines are not always present in a scene. So when there are no lines to be found, you’ll need to work with some other compositional element.

Often, this simply means including something interesting in the foreground.

For example, in the photo below, there are some buildings in the background, a concrete jetty in the middle ground, and the edge of another jetty in the foreground. I included the foreground jetty to help create a sense of depth.

how to add depth and dimension in composition long exposure seascape

Here’s another example:

seascape with a clear foreground for depth

Do you see how adding the rocks to the foreground creates a composition with three distinct zones (foreground, middle ground, and background)?

And once the zones are present, you get a sense of depth, with the viewer’s eye moving through the shot.

It helps that the wide-angle lens makes the rocks seem quite large in comparison to the distant cliffs.

4. Use aerial perspective

Another technique that helps convey a sense of depth in photography is aerial (or atmospheric) perspective.

This is where the atmospheric conditions make objects in the distance appear hazy.

Of course, you’re often limited by the environmental conditions – but as soon as you see haze in the distance, I highly recommend you try to find a way to include it in your composition.

In the photo below, you can see that the trees in the distance on the left side are obscured by atmospheric haze, which adds depth:

And the depth is further enhanced by the converging lines formed by the walls. So the two techniques actually work together to give increased depth to the final shot:

how to add depth and dimension in composition - aerial perspective and lines

5. Shoot through a foreground object

The techniques I’ve shared above work well with wide-angle lenses, but are less helpful if you’re using telephoto lenses.

You see, telephoto lenses put distance between you and your subject, which leads to a flatter perspective overall (i.e., a perspective with less depth).

That said, there are still some techniques you can use with telephoto lenses to create a sense of depth.

One method is to shoot through something that is between you and the subject (such as grass, twigs, or windows).

In the photo below, the subject is the setting sun. I shot through the grass (and I actually focused on the grass, throwing the sun slightly out of focus) to add a sense of depth to what otherwise would have been a very flat image.

You can also use this technique with portraits. I created the portrait below by shooting through the branches of a tree:

So the next time you’re shooting a subject with a telephoto lens, look around for objects to shoot through. I guarantee you’ll find an object or two – which you can then use to create depth!

6. Use selective focus

Selective focus is a technique where you deliberately set a wide aperture and focus on the subject (and create a blurry background in the process).

It’s especially effective with portraits, as the blur helps separate the model from the background – and ultimately creates a sense of depth.

The following portrait was taken at f/2.0 with the lens focused on the model’s eyes:

how to add depth and dimension in photography with selective focus

Do you see how the blurry background and the sharp subject creates a three-dimensional image?

That’s the power of selective focus!

7. Convey depth through color

Here’s a question to ask yourself:

What happens to colors in the background when you use a selective focus technique (as discussed in the previous tip)?

You see, when the background is out of focus, colors merge into each other.

And if you arrange your colors carefully, you can achieve a nice contrast between the colors in the background and those on the subject.

What does this do?

It conveys depth!

For example, check out the colors in this portrait:

Depth and composition portrait with subtle colors

The background is nearly white, whereas the man’s sweater and hair is a darker red; this separates him from the background.

In fact, you can take this idea to its extreme by using an off-camera flash fitted with an orange gel. When you do this, the model will be lit by orange light (from the gelled flash), but the background will be lit by colder ambient light.

(This technique works well at dusk when the ambient light has a natural blue color.)

Ultimately, you’ll get a nice contrast between the warmer model and the cooler background. For the example below, the model was lit by a single speedlight fitted with a 60 cm softbox and an orange gel.

Depth and composition portrait with lots of color

How to add dimension and depth in photography: Conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be well-prepared to create photos with plenty of depth and dimension!

So go out and practice some of the techniques I’ve discussed.

Now over to you:

What other ideas do you have for creating and adding depth in photography? Please let us know in the comments below!

The post 7 Tips – How to Add Depth and Dimension into Your Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

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Weekly Photography Challenge – Shallow Depth of Field

29 Aug

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Shallow Depth of Field appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Our dPS Weekly Challenge this week is ‘Shallow Depth of Field’ #dPSShallowDOF

After our challenge last week, ‘Mistakes‘ it reminded me of when I first purchased my EF 50mm f/1.4 lens and pretty much had it at f/1.4 or ‘wide open’ the whole time! The shallow depth of field (Where you have your subject nice and sharp, and everything else out of focus, the quality of the ‘out of focus’ area sometimes referred to as ‘Bokeh‘) look was something I loved at the start, and as I learned to use it more effectively, became another ‘tool’ in my photography toolbox.

Shallow depth of field lets you isolate a subject or highlight an area in your frame, my first example below, highlighting the lens details on my new Sony 12-24mm, you see everything else nice and blurry – This was shot with another Sony lens, the FE 35mm f/1.4 (Maybe my favourite ever) it’s great for shallow depth of field!

You might not have a lens with a wide aperture (f/1.4 / 1.8 / 2 / 2.8, etc) but you can use whatever you have to go for the most shallow depth of field that you can.

Check out Kevin’s article here for some good tips on ‘depth of field’

Weekly Photography Challenge – Shallow Depth of Field — A Sony photographs a Sony ‘Wide open’

We look forward to seeing what you come up with this week!

Congratulations to all of you that Tweeted, Instagrammed, Facebooked or posted a photo in the comments below our blog post! There were some great ‘mistakes’ in there! Well done to Elena, on this photo! Doesn’t look like a mistake to us! Congratulations on your recent awards, too! It’s great to see members of our dPS community progress in their photography!

Great! Where do I upload my photos?

Simply upload your shot into the comments field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see. Or, if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them.

Weekly Photography Challenge – Looking Up

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

If you tag your photos on Flickr, Instagram, Twitter or other sites – tag them as #DPSShallowDOF to help others find them. Linking back to this page might also help others know what you’re doing so that they can share in the fun.

Follow us on Instagram?

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Shallow Depth of Field appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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Understanding Depth of Field for Beginners

28 Jul

The post Understanding Depth of Field for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.

Depth of Field for Beginners

You may have heard the term depth of field (DoF), but if you are new to photography you may not yet be taking advantage of how DoF can enhance your photos.

A basic definition of depth of field is: the zone of acceptable sharpness within a photo that will appear in focus. In every picture there is a certain area of your image in front of, and behind the subject that will appear in focus.

Understanding depth of field in photography.

This zone will vary from photo to photo. Some images may have very small zones of focus which is called shallow depth of field.

Here’s a series of images with very shallow depth of field.

Others may have a very large zone of focus which is called deep depth of field.

Here’s a collection of images with much deeper depths of field.

Three main factors that will affect how you control the depth of field of your images are: aperture (f-stop), distance from the subject to the camera, and focal length of the lens on your camera. Here are some explanations and answers to other common questions concerning depth of field.

How does aperture control depth of field?

Aperture refers to the access given to light from the lens to the camera sensors. The size of your aperture (the diameter of the hole through which light enters the camera) controls the amount of light entering your lens. Using the aperture (f-stop) of your lens is the simplest way to control your depth of field as you set up your shot.

Large aperture = Small f-number = Shallow (small) depth of field
Small aperture = Larger f-number = Deeper (larger) depth of field

It may be easier to remember this simple concept: The lower your f-number, the smaller your depth of field. Likewise, the higher your f-number, the larger your depth of field. For example, using a setting of f/2.8 will produce a very shallow depth of field while f/11 will produce a deeper DoF.

The image on the left was captured at 250th of a second at f/5.0 which resulted in a very shallow depth of field. Because of this the background is out of focus allowing the subject to stand out. The image on the right was captured at 1/5th of a second at f/32 which created a deep depth of field and a sharper background.

How does distance control depth of field?

The closer your subject is to the camera, the shallower your depth of field becomes. Therefore, moving further away from your subject will deepen your depth of field.

How does the focal length of a lens control depth of field?

Focal Length refers to the capability of a lens to magnify the image of a distant subject. This can get complicated, but the simple answer is that the longer you set your focal length the shallower the depth of field. Example: Your subject is 10 meters (33 feet) away, using a focal length of 50mm at f/4; your depth of field range would be from 7.5 -14.7 meters (24.6-48 feet) for a total DOF of 7.2 meters (23.6 feet). If you zoom into 100mm from the same spot, the depth of field changes to 9.2-10.9m (30.1-35.8′) for a total of 1.7m (5.7′) of depth of field. But if you move to 20m (66′) away from your subject using the 100mm lens, your depth of field is almost the same as it would be at 10 meters using a 50mm lens.

Image of a swan hiding in the tall grass captured from about 5 meters with 300 mm focal length created a DOF only about 5cm.

This image of a swan hiding in the tall foliage was captured from about 5m (16′) with a 300mm focal length lens. This combination of focal length and distance created a depth of field of approximately 5cm (2″).

What if I just have a point and shoot camera, or don’t know how to change those settings?

Even with a point and shoot camera, there are ways to control your depth of field. In the Scene Modes menu, look for a symbol of a human head, which is the setting for portraits. This will give you a narrow depth of field. In the same menu there is also a mountain symbol, which is a setting for landscapes, which will give you a deeper depth of field.

If you are a beginner with a DSLR there are some simple ways you can control depth of field and still use and automatic shooting mode. By choosing Aperture Priority mode you can set your aperture to get the depth of field that you want, and the camera will automatically set the shutter speed.

Can I set the depth of field exactly for each situation?

Yes, but because changing your aperture affects your shutter speed, the result may not meet the needs of your image. For instance, if you are trying to increase your depth of field by reducing aperture size you will also need to increase (slow down) your shutter speed which could make your image blurry. Understanding how all these settings work together can increase your control over depth of field.

Is depth of field equally distributed in front and back of my focus point?

No, it’s usually about one third in front and two thirds behind your focal point, but as your focal length increases it becomes more equal.

How will understanding depth of field improve my images?

Managing depth of field is one of the most important tools at your disposal, because having tack sharp images is one of the most important factors to getting that great shot. Knowing how to make the parts of your image you want sharp and the parts you want to be out of focus, is a great artistic tool to create great images.

Getting the right DOF for your shot can make the difference

Getting the right depth of field for your shot can make all the difference.

When should I use a shallow depth of field?

Using a shallow depth of field is a good way to make your subject stand out from its background and is great for portrait photography. Shallow DoF can also be useful in wildlife photography, where you want the subject to stand out from its surroundings. This is also useful because many wildlife photo opportunities are low light situations, and increasing your aperture size will give you more light. Shallow depth of field is also effective for sports photography where many times you want to separate the athlete from the background to bring attention to them. The result of this should also help give you a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action.

This image captured at 300mm focal length and F/ produced a very shallow DOF. Because of this very shallow DOF it is important to set your focal point on the eye. Notice how the bird appears to pop out from the background.

This image captured at 300mm focal length and f/5.6 produced a very shallow depth of field. Because of this, it is important to set your focal point on the subject’s eye. Notice how the bird pops out from the background.

When should I use deeper depth of field?

In landscape photography it is important to get as much of your scene in focus as possible. By using a wide angle lens and a small aperture you will be able maximize your depth of field to get your scene in focus.

In this landscape captured at 50mm at F/16 Focus point was set at 8 meters which made everything from 4 meters to infinity in focus

This landscape was captured with a 50mm focal length at f/16. The focus point was set at 8 meters, which made everything from 4 meters to infinity in focus.

How can you determine depth of field?

There are several on-line sites that will provide depth of field charts for your camera and lenses. Also, there are a number of apps available for smart phone users that can calculate it for you while you’re in the field. Most cameras have a DoF preview button which will give you a preview as you look through the eye piece. (This is probably the easiest and most under-utilized method.) Using this button may cause your image to appear darker as you view it through the eye piece, but not to worry. Your image will be properly exposed as long as you have the correct exposure settings.

Can depth of field be adjusted to get everything in focus?

Yes, using what is called the hyperfocal distance. When you are focused at the hyperfocal distance, your depth of field will extend from half the distance to your focal point to infinity. Use a DOF calculator to find your hyperfocal distance. If you don’t have a DoF calculator, a good rule of thumb is to focus a third of the way into the scene. Using an aperture of about f/11 or higher with a wide angle lens will maximize your depth of field.

What about depth of field in macro photography?

Because most macro images are produced in low light and with a longer focal length, the depth of field is often very shallow. Adjust your lens to the smallest aperture that the light will allow. It may also be necessary to increase your ISO to allow you to properly expose the image and to maximize your depth of field. Still, in many macro images your DoF may be very minute. With this very narrow focus it becomes necessary to use a tripod, because even the slightest movement of the camera will move your macro subject outside your depth of field.

120 mm Marco at F8 still is a very shallow DOF with the lens only 15 cm from the focal point on the front flower.

This 120 mm macro even at f/8 still has a very shallow depth of field.

What is bokeh?

Bokeh (boh-ke) comes from the Japanese word meaning blur. This effect is produced by the out-of-focus areas in your image that are beyond the depth of field. Bokeh commonly refers to the pleasing circle shapes caused by the shape of the lens aperture. Usually created when shooting with your aperture wide open, such as f/2.8, bokeh can also be created with smaller apertures if the background is distant enough.

Learn more about how to get beautiful bokeh in your images here.

Bokeh in this image caused by the distance from the subject to the background which fell well beyond the DOF

Bokeh in this image was created by the distance of the subject to the background, which fell well beyond the depth of field.

To summarize controlling depth of field:

Increase depth of field

Narrow your aperture (larger f-number)
Move farther from the subject
Shorten focal length

Decrease depth of field

Widen your aperture (smaller f-number)
Move closer to the subject
Lengthen your focal length

Take control of your depth of field. Understanding how these adjustments control your it will greatly improve your photography. What questions do you have about depth of field? Please share your photos and comments.

How sensor size affects DOF

The physical dimension of the sensor in your camera affects DOF. Unlike the other variables, it’s not possible for you to change, unless you use a different camera.

Small sensors, such as in phones and compact cameras, give you the most DOF. This is one main reason people upgrade from a phone to a camera. Because they are not able to achieve a shallow depth of field with their phone.

Phone manufacturers are trying to mimic shallow DOF in various ways. But as yet it appears to be little more than a poor gimmick. There is no substitute for size.

Basically, cameras with smaller sensors make photos with more DOF at the same aperture and distance settings. To make comparisons of DOF from different-sized sensors, you must calculate the same effective focal length and aperture settings.

Larger sensors in DSLR and mirrorless cameras have made them popular with video producers. This is because of their capacity for shallow DOF. Traditional video cameras contain small sensors so therefore generally have deeper DOF.

How To Control Depth of Field Thai models

How camera to subject distance affects DOF

The closer you are to your subject, the less DOF you will have at any given aperture setting, with any lens on every camera. Move further back, and your DOF increases.

This is why it can be challenging when taking close-up photos to have enough DOF. Being very close to your subject may mean you do not get it all in focus. Using macro lenses and close up attachments amplifies this problem.

So if you are still only using your kit lens, you’ll need to move in close to achieve a shallow DOF. This is because these lenses do not have a very wide maximum aperture or long focal length.

Remember that from the point you are focused on 1/3rd of the DOF will be closer to you and 2/3rds of it will be further away. Knowing this can help you choose your point of focus to control you DOF more precisely.

How To Control Your Depth of Field Model and Mask

How lens focal length affects (apparent) DOF

The longer focal length lens you use the shallower the DOF appears. But it doesn’t actually change.

If you take photos of the same subject with two different focal length lenses, the images made with the wider lens appear to have a deeper DOF. The aperture should remain constant. When you crop the image made with the wider field of view, so the elements in the images are the same size, you will see no real difference.

The idea that longer focal lengths produce a shallower DOF is a myth. Peter West Carey has already written an article for DPS about this based on Matt Brandon’s experimentation. Matt’s images prove the point clearly. It can be a difficult concept to comprehend. Especially if you are predisposed to the popular idea that focal length affects DOF.

How aperture affects DOF

The aperture is an adjustable opening within a lens. The primary function is one of the controls used to control the amount of light entering the camera. A narrow aperture setting lets in less light than a wider setting. The settings are measured in f-stops.

Adjusting the aperture setting, (changing the f-stop value,) not only controls the amount of light entering, but also the DOF. Changing the aperture is the most common way photographers choose to control DOF. The wider aperture the shallower the DOF. So the lower f-stop number you choose (eg. f/1.4), the less of your image will be acceptably sharp. Choosing a narrower aperture, a higher f-stop number (eg. f/22), will render more of your photo in focus.

Lenses are made with differing maximum apertures. Typically a kit lens will have a widest aperture value of f/3.5 when the lens is zoomed to its widest focal length. This value changes the more you zoom in. So the widest f-stop at the longest focal length may only be f/6.3. For information please read the article ‘What The Numbers On Your Lens Mean.’

Prime lenses usually have a wider maximum aperture. This is why they are often favored by photographers who like creating photos with a shallower DOF. Popular 50mm lenses have f-stop settings of f/1.8, f/1.4 or even wider. For more information about zooms and prime lenses please read ‘Primes Versus Zoom Lenses: Which Lens to Use and Why?’

How can you see the DOF when composing a photo?

Cameras with digital viewfinders or monitors will display the DOF as it will appear in the photo. Because of the small size, it can be difficult to see clearly unless you zoom in.

Cameras such as DSLRs with optical viewfinders will not allow you to see the effect of the DOF unless you use the DOF preview button. This is because the aperture is automatically set to the widest possible. It is adjusted to the f-stop you’ve chosen as you press the shutter release button. If the f-stop were able to be altered while composing, at narrow apertures, the image would appear dark in your viewfinder. You can see this when you use the DOF preview.

How To Control Depth of Field Thai Model with Elephants

Manage your DOF well

Keeping all these variables balanced may seem complicated. But it’s important to know how each of them affects DOF so you can manage it well in your photos.

To help you learn how each aspect of DOF works try setting up a few photos and experimenting with them. Not for the sake of making great pictures, but to understand how changing each one affects the look of your images. It will be good to set your camera on a tripod or stable surface for this exercise.

Line up a few objects in your frame which are at different distances from your camera. Set your aperture to its widest – the lowest f-stop number (eg. f/1.4). Get as close to the first object as you can so that your lens will focus on it.

Take a photo of it, then focus on another object further away from you and take another photo. Repeat this with each object further away from you as you have in your frame.

Now repeat this process with a middle range aperture setting and then the narrowest your lens has. Try this with different focal lengths as well.

Then move back and make another series of photos the same way. Repeat this process as you move further back from your subject.

Compare the photos side by side on your computer and take note of the differences in DOF between them. Look at the EXIF data so you can see what your aperture and zoom settings were.

Working through an exercise like this will help you learn to control depth of field. As you can see the effects in your photos it will become less complicated.

Let me know in the comments below how you get on.

The post How to Control Depth of Field in Your Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

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Qualcomm’s new Snapdragon 855 chipset offers faster depth sensing, 4K HDR video at 60fps

06 Dec

Qualcomm has announced its new flagship mobile chipset that we should expect to see in most 2019 high-end Android smartphones, including the Samsung Galaxy S10.

From an imaging point of view the most interesting news is an upgraded Spectra image signal processor (ISP) that is taking over some tasks that previously have been performed by CPU, GPU and DSP in conjunction. For example, the ISP can process depth mapping at a frequency of 60 frames per second. This should be useful for real-time object attenuation applications but could also help improve simulated bokeh effects in video footage.

In addition the new ISP enables 4K HDR video capture at 60 fps and Qualcomm also claims the processor generally needs only about 25 percent of the power for the same task than previous variants.

For general computing the new chipset’s 7nm process is expected to deliver improved performance while yielding noticeably better battery life then the current Snapdragon 845. The Snapdragon 855 should also bring performance improvements to AI-applications. Qualcomm says the new chipset delivers “up to three times the AI performance compared to the previous generation mobile platform”.

In terms of connectivity the 855 won’t come with 5G but instead use Qualcomm’s new X24 LTE modem which is capable of theoretical download speeds up of to 2Gbps. However, device manufacturers will have the option to add an X50 5G modem to their packages if they they want to include 5G connectivity in their Snapdragon 855-powered products.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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Google Photos for iOS update brings depth and focus editing

21 Nov

Google Photos is the default photos app on Android devices but also a viable option for the users of iOS devices. Today Google has announced an update to its Google Photos app for iOS that brings adjustable depth and focus for portrait mode shots to the Apple ecosystem.

Previously this feature had only been available in the Android version of the app. With this latest update you can now open Portrait Mode images in Google Photos, tap the editing icon and then modify depth-of-field and focus using virtual sliders.

iPhone XS, XS Max and iPad Pro users can do the same thing in Apple’s own Photos app but the owners of older portrait-mode-capable iPhones until now have not been able to adjust focus and depth after capture.

In addition, the latest update brings a Color Pop feature that converts the background of a Portrait Mode image into black and white but keeps the subject in color. You can download the updated Google Photos app from the App Store now.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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iOS 12.1 arrives with ‘beauty filter’ fix and real-time Portrait depth control

02 Nov

Apple has released iOS 12.1 for iPhone and iPad on Tuesday. As promised, the update brings a fix for the “beauty filter” issue that resulted in soft selfies and debate. The new version also adds the ability to preview Portrait mode depth of field in real-time before capturing the image.

The ability to adjust Portrait mode depth of field post-capture remains, but users now have the option to adjust that depth of field before capturing the image, as well, with a real-time preview of the background blur for more control over the process.

Camera updates aside, iOS 12.1 also brings dual SIM support to the newest iPhone models, more than 70 new emoji, and Group FaceTime for chatting with up to 32 people.

You can download iOS 12.1 by going into Settings > General > Software Update.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

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How to do Focus Stacking in Photoshop for a Seemingly Infinite Depth of Field

02 Oct

Whenever you do macro or close-up photography you usually have to choose very carefully what you want to keep in focus. This can also happen when you want to shoot a landscape and you want to include an element close to you but you end up with a blurry background.

So it seems that doesn’t matter if you go big or small you always have to make compromises regarding the depth of field. However, there is a post-production way around it, stay with me and I’ll show you how to do focus stacking!

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field

First, what is depth of field?

Depth of field, commonly referred to as DoF, refers to the distance between the first and last object that appears in focus or sharp within an image. It covers the space in front of and behind the focal plane, in other words where you put your focus.

How broad this space or distance is can be determined by different factors: the aperture, the focal length of your lens and the physical distance between the camera and the subject.

Even if you have these three factors to move around in order to expand your depth of field, there are certain conditions that just won’t allow you to get as much DoF as you need. This is where Photoshop comes in, when you need to achieve an impossible or seemingly infinite depth of field.

While this is a post-production process, you need to consider and get it at the shooting stage as it’s not something you can achieve by fixing your photo later. You need to prepare several photos that you’ll stack together in order to create one fully focused image.

So basically what you need to do is shoot the image with different parts in focus. Everything else needs to remain the same, this means the same framing and settings and you ONLY adjust your focus in each shot.

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field - source images

A few tricks for shooting images for focus stacking

For best results in the post-production, it’s better to have good material to work with so I recommend using a tripod so that the framing is exactly the same in each image.
Adjust the focus manually and in order (like from closest to farthest) so that you don’t lose track and have a shot where every area of the photo wasn’t sharp at some point during the shooting. Think of it as bracketing the focus.
The more photos you take the better so that Photoshop will have enough information to form your final image.

Getting Started

Okay once you’re back at home base, download your photos to the computer. The first thing you need to do is open them all into the same file in Photoshop. You can do this by going to Menu > File > Scripts > Load Files into Stacks.

In the pop-up window, set it to use Files and then with the Browse button choose the set of photos you took. Check off the option “Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images”, especially if you didn’t use a tripod. But even if you did it’s useful to keep it checked to compensate for the focus breathing which is the change in scale when you re-adjusted the focus for each photo.

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field - load images into a stack

Once you have them all, just click Open and Photoshop will load them in the same file, each on a separate layer. The filenames will become the name of each of the layers.

Note: If you forgot to check the Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images in the step before, you can always do this by selecting the layers and going to Menu > Edit > Auto-Align.

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field - layers

Blending the layers

Now, select all of your layers. You can do this by clicking on the first one, then holding Shift+Click and click on the last layer. That way everything in between will get selected too. Now go to Menu > Auto-Blend Layers. A pop-up window will appear, check the “Stack Images” option and leave the Seamless Tones and Colors checked as well.

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field - auto blend

From there Photoshop will do all the work so you just have to be patient.

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field

I recommend that you zoom in and check the edges as you can find some problem areas that may require you to copy paste from the original files for fine-tuning, like this:

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field

Once Photoshop has your image pasted together, you can go to Menu > Layer > Flatten Image to compress all the layers into one. Finally, make any adjustments you need to the exposure or contrast to get your final result.

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field

This is the best way of doing focus stacking in Photoshop. However, if you find yourself outside the studio, without a tripod and unprepared, you can still give it a go. Just try to stay as steady as possible or you won’t achieve the required result.

For example, I took two photos, one where the small sculpture of the head in the foreground was focused and one where the background was focused. It was done without a tripod or any care about it leaving all for Photoshop to fix and as you can see it wasn’t able to align them.

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field

However, in these examples, I also used only two pictures and no tripod but I was very careful and did my best not to move at all except for my two fingers turning the focusing ring. Of course, it’s impossible to actually do that but it was good enough for Photoshop to do an acceptable result on my images.

So it’s not ideal but it can be done, never prevent yourself from trying!

Focus Stacking for an Infinite Depth of Field

The post How to do Focus Stacking in Photoshop for a Seemingly Infinite Depth of Field appeared first on Digital Photography School.

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Posts Tagged ‘Depth’

What is a shallow depth of field in photography?

Why is a shallow depth of field effect important?

How to get a shallow depth of field effect: 5 techniques

1. Increase the subject-background distance

2. Use your camera’s Portrait mode

3. Widen your lens’s aperture

4. Use a long lens (and get close to your subject)

5. Get a wide-aperture lens

Shallow depth of field: final words

What is a foreground?

How should you use the foreground?

Why is a foreground so important?

Tips for using a foreground in photography

Using foreground to create depth: Conclusion

1. Use leading lines

2. Use perspective

3. Think foreground, middle ground, and background

4. Use aerial perspective

5. Shoot through a foreground object

6. Use selective focus

7. Convey depth through color

How to add dimension and depth in photography: Conclusion

Great! Where do I upload my photos?

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How does aperture control depth of field?

How does distance control depth of field?

How does the focal length of a lens control depth of field?

What if I just have a point and shoot camera, or don’t know how to change those settings?

Can I set the depth of field exactly for each situation?

Is depth of field equally distributed in front and back of my focus point?

How will understanding depth of field improve my images?

When should I use a shallow depth of field?

When should I use deeper depth of field?

How can you determine depth of field?

Can depth of field be adjusted to get everything in focus?

What about depth of field in macro photography?

What is bokeh?

To summarize controlling depth of field:

Recommended Reading for Beginner to Intermediate Photographers

How sensor size affects DOF

How camera to subject distance affects DOF

How lens focal length affects (apparent) DOF

How aperture affects DOF

How can you see the DOF when composing a photo?

Manage your DOF well

First, what is depth of field?

A few tricks for shooting images for focus stacking

Getting Started

Blending the layers