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Posts Tagged ‘Curve’

Major Update: Adobe adds tone curve, split toning and more to Lightroom CC

13 Dec
The tone curve, one of the most important features missing from Lightroom CC 1.0, is finally being added. Photo: Adobe

Adobe has launched a major update to the entirely Lightroom CC ecosystem today, releasing major updates for Lightroom CC on Mac, Windows, iOS, Android, and the web, in addition to a few updates for Lightroom Classic CC and Adobe Camera Raw. If you’re a Creative Cloud subscriber, you’ll want to update ASAP.

Here’s what Adobe has in store for you with this latest Lightroom update.

Tone Curve and Split Toning

Two of the most useful and conspicuously absent features in Lightroom CC 1.0 were the Tone Curve and Split Toning. Well, there’s no longer any reason to hop back into Lightroom Classic CC to take advantage of these: they’re coming to Lightroom CC.

You’ll find the Tone Curve next to the Auto button in the Light panel, where you can choose between Parametric Curve or Point Curve modes, as well as the Red, Green, and Blue channels.

Split Toning lives in the Effects panel, where you can … well … split tone.

Adobe Sensei Auto Mode

Another major feature improvement coming with the December update is Auto mode, which is now much more intelligent thanks to Adobe Sensei artificial intelligence platform. From Adobe’s blog post about the update:

Using an advanced neural network powered by Adobe Sensei, our artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning platform, the new Auto Settings creates a better photo by analyzing your photo and comparing to tens of thousands of professionally edited photos to create a beautiful, pleasing image.

This new Auto mode is launching ecosystem wide—you’ll find it in Lightroom CC, Lightroom CC for iOS, Lightroom CC for Android, Lightroom CC on the web, Lightroom Classic, and Adobe Camera Raw (ACR).

Everything Else

The three updates above are the most impactful, but the December update comes with a bit more to enjoy.

  • Lightroom CC now lets you change the capture time of an image or batch of images (“providing relief for those times that you forgot to change your camera’s time or time zone settings.”).
  • Lightroom CC for Android received several bug fixes and the ability to launch directly into popular modes from the home screen by pressing and holding the app icon.
  • Lightroom CC for iOS now lets you create and customize a text based watermark for your images on export, and HDR capture has been improved.
  • Lightroom Classic CC and Adobe Camera RAW are seeing some ‘refinements’ to the Color Range Masking tool.
  • And, finally, Adobe has added support for new cameras and lenses, including the Sony a7R III, Leica CL, iPhone X, and Google Pixel 2 among others.

You can read more about the December update on Adobe’s blog. CC subscribers just have to update their copy to the latest version to take advantage of all the features described above.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

20 Feb

With all the editing options available in the Lightroom Develop module it can be tough to know where to start when you pull up a picture and start making changes. The Basic panel covers elementary adjustments like exposure and white balance; Detail lets you adjust sharpness and noise reduction; Effects allows you to add a vignette, and so on. The Tone Curve panel seems downright strange at first, with a light gray histogram and a diagonal line going right through the middle of it. But this panel can actually be used to tweak and enhance your images quite a lot if you know how it works.

It won’t give you the same level of finely-tuned control you may want for individual colors, and can’t help you remove spots or blemishes. But it does give you a huge amount of power to change the overall visual impact of a picture and with a few clicks of the mouse can take it from average to awesome.

How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

What is the Tone Curve?

The Tone Curve panel can be thought of almost like the contrast slider on steroids. Most photographers use it to add a sense of punchiness or vibrancy to their pictures. You can also do the opposite and make the overall exposure a bit more even-handed by bringing down the highlights while bringing up the shadows.

How you use the Tone Curve is going to depend on your editing style and the pictures you are working with, but suffice it to say that if you’ve been using the contrast slider you may find yourself quite pleased with the editing power offered by the tone curve. To understand how it works I’m going to use the following image as an example and apply a few simple edits using only the tone curve.

Using the Tone Curve

How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

Straight out of the camera, with no edits.

This picture is an unedited RAW file straight from my camera, but with a few tweaks of the Lightroom Tone Curve, it can be transformed into a much more vibrant photo. To get started with these edits on any picture, enter the Develop module of Lightroom and click the Tone Curve panel (on the right side) which brings up a grayscale graph with a diagonal line going from one corner to the other (as shown below).

How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

Look carefully in the background of the graph and you will see a histogram which is the exact same as the one at the top of the Lightroom Develop module. This shows you where the color values are in your image and whether you have a lot of colors that are very bright, very dark, or somewhere in the middle.

What the diagonal line and the sliders below it allow you to do is change the intensity of various parts of your picture. You can make the light parts lighter or the dark parts darker. For instance, here is the original image with a bit of adjustment to the lights.

Adjusting the curve

How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

This adjustment has taken the lighter portions of the image (mostly the blue sky in the background) and made them even brighter while leaving the darker portions of the image alone. Now I’ll take the editing process a bit further by clicking on the bottom-left part of the diagonal line and dragging it down instead of up.

With just two simple edits on the Tone Curve, the image is now much more pleasing than the initial version, and things are just getting started. In making the bright portions lighter and the dark portions darker it has given the picture an improved sense of contrast and vibrancy. The same thing can happen with your images too.

Using the sliders

You may also notice if you do these edits on your own that the adjustments you make to the tone curve are also quantified in the sliders below the graph, as you can see below.

How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

You can also use these sliders to adjust the values of the tone curve if you choose, and you may also notice that there are more than just two sliders, one each for lights and darks. The highlights are the very brightest portion of the image, whereas the shadows are the very darkest portions, and as you adjust these sliders (or the tone curve itself) you will see the colorful histogram at the top of the Develop module change accordingly.

If you lower the numerical value of the shadows or darks (or simply drag that portion of the line down) you will notice the histogram creep towards the left which is another visual illustration of the edits you are performing. The same holds true for the highlights and lights.

Use in moderation

I recommend that if you are using the tone curve to enhance your pictures, that you are careful not to push the histogram too far to the right or the left. Ideally, you want the darkest parts of your image to be pure black, but not so much more that whole sections of your photo get muddied in the process. The same goes for the lighter portions, as you can see in the following example.

How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

There are a couple of things to note in the above image, so I want to break it down a bit.

First, you will see that the picture of the leaf is vastly different from its original incarnation at the top of this article. It has much more contrast and is in my opinion, too heavily edited. Some people like this look though, and using the tone curve is a good way to achieve it.

Second, if you look carefully at the bottom portion of the diagonal line in the tone curve you will see that it flatlines until after it starts to overlap part of the shadowy gray histogram behind it. This means that much of the color in the darker portions of the image has been crushed to be completely black, and the same thing has happened to the lighter portions. You can see this at the top of the S-shaped curve where it hits the top of the graph while there is still gray histogram data left on the right-hand side. All that color data has been discarded, which is why huge swaths of the bright blue sky in the picture now show up as completely white.

Finally, the colorful histogram on the right side shows that instead of a well-exposed picture, much of the data is now extremely bright or extremely dark which is a sign that the picture is very high contrast.

Curve presets

You can also use two built-in presets by clicking on the “Point Curve” options in the lower-left portion of the panel for a medium or high contrast image, but I generally don’t use those. Normally when making adjustments to the tone curve I keep things subtle and avoid such high contrast situations. Because many photographers prefer this style, Adobe has limited the way in which the tone curve can be edited by default.

When you click and drag on the white line it affects a rather large swath of the whole line, which is a nice way of making sure your adjustments are evenly reflected across much of the image. However, you can have a bit more fine-tuned control over your edits by clicking the small little mini-graph icon in the lower right corner of the tone curve panel.

The Point Curve

Using the Point Curve to make adjustments gives you much more control over your image, but if you’re not careful things can quickly get out of hand. It’s always a good idea to try things out, especially in a program like Lightroom where all your edits are nondestructive. But generally, I like to stick with the default tone curve adjustment because it’s a bit more forgiving in its edits.

How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve

I wouldn’t normally edit a picture to look like this, but I wanted to illustrate how the point curve can give you much different results from the traditional tone curve.

RGB Curves

You might notice the “RGB” option in the lower-right portion of the point curve as well, which gives you even greater control over your edits. Click this to edit the individual Red, Green, and Blue channels of your image and perform the same types of adjustments (i.e. adjust the brightness and darkness) but on each individual color separately.

I rarely use it, but this can be quite useful if you want to give your pictures a certain type of color cast or edit a single color (e.g. blue skies, green grass) to have more impact. If you find yourself going a little overboard while editing the point curve and want to remove some of your edits, just double-click on a point to delete it.

Targeted adjustments

Finally, another way to edit the tone curve that some people find useful is to click the little circle (targeted adjustment tool) in the top-left corner of the tone curve panel. Then you can click and drag on specific parts of your image (say, a bright sky or a dark river) to make them lighter or darker. It’s an easy way to make targeted adjustments right on the image itself without trying to guess at which part of the tone curve graph to edit.

Conclusion

I hope this gives you a bit more understanding as to what the tone curve does. If you’ve never tried it before I highly recommend giving it a chance. If you want to add just a little bit of punch to your pictures, whether portraits, landscapes, sports, wildlife, or just about anything else, click over to the Tone Curve and try a couple of adjustments. You can’t really go wrong with a little bit of a classic S-curve, where you raise the highlights and lower the shadows, but you might find other types of edits that work well for specific pictures too.

Do you have any tips that work for you when using the Lightroom Tone Curve? Any secrets that you want to share that I forgot to mention here? Please leave your thoughts in the comments below.

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The post How to Understand the Lightroom Tone Curve by Simon Ringsmuth appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Learning curve: LensRentals examines a series of linear focus motors

21 Apr

To the point…

Quick and to the point: that’s the reasoning behind the use of linear focus motors, but it’s less true of the latest blog post on the subject, over on LensRentals.com. That’s what we love about the crew’s in-depth teardowns. In their latest post they tear apart a series of linear drive lenses and discuss the various designs they’ve encountered. Some are pretty robust and others, well, take a look for yourself…

The need for new designs

The ring-type focus motors [pictured above] that were traditionally the default choice for high-end DSLR lenses are not especially well suited to the needs of mirrorless cameras or video shooting. Contrast detection autofocus requires not just being able to move a focus group quickly but also the ability to stop it, then drive it back in the other direction, all with high precision. Video requires silent and carefully-controlled focus drive, to allow smooth refocusing while the camera is recording. These different requirements have prompted the adoption of new types of focus motors.

Linear electromagnetic motors

Among the more popular alternatives to ring-type drive is the linear motor, which features a permanent magnet and a coil of wire that, when electricity is run through it, slides along a bar parallel with the magnet. In principle these fulfill the things demanded of them: fast, precise and quiet (we’ve been very impressed by how fast some of the linear motor lenses we’ve used can be).

Surprisingly, the internet has very few good diagrams of these designs, but you can sometimes recognize lenses that use this type of motor because the focus element rattles around when the camera is switched off. This is because in many linear motor lenses the focus element is only held in position when power is being provided to the focus coil – the rest of the time, the focus carriage can just slide up and down its rails. This isn’t true of the Sony and Zeiss designs that much of the blog post discusses – these appear to have some sort of brake to stop this disconcerting behavior.

Rattle and, er, break

Generally we don’t worry too much about this rattling, but perhaps we should. LensRental’s experience with large numbers of hard-worked lenses reveals that not all linear motor designs are the same. Early Sony motors attach the moving coil to the focus element carriage with just a single blob of glue. Oddly enough, this can fail; leaving the coil racing up and down the rail but with the focus element uncoupled. Later designs do a better job of securing the moving coil to the carriage, prompting Roger Cicala to define two categories within lenses of this kind: Type 1 motors and Type 1a designs that are very similar but don’t break so readily.

No right answer

As well as highlighting a failure mechanism of poor designs, Cicala and Co’s teardowns hint at a fundamental shortcoming of linear motor’s capabilities. Fujifilm’s use of two, three and four linear motors in some lens designs suggests that they struggle to move large, heavy lens elements quickly, taking a brute-force approach.

This is also likely to explain why Sony adopted three different focus drive technologies (linear electromagnetic motor, piezoelectric direct drive and ring-type motors, sometimes in combination) in its recently-announced GM series of lenses: because there isn’t yet a single technology that provides all the necessary characteristics in a way that works for all lens designs.

Results, not technologies

Like LensRentals, we’ve seen very different results between the best and the worst examples of each lens motor type, which is why we try to concentrate on performance, rather than technology, when we write about lenses. We’ve also been lucky not to experience any of the motor failures (perhaps better described as motor detachments), that LensRentals has seen, but it’s interesting to see the designs of lenses improve as manufacturers become more experienced at using each technology. Or, as in the case of the Sony 70-200mm F2.8 pictured here, a mixture of technologies.

We also hope Cicala makes good on his promise to look at other emerging focus technologies, and the ways in which they’re developing, in the coming weeks.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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MaxCurve curve editing tool for iOS connects with Photoshop on a desktop

19 Jan

MaxCurve is an app for iPhone and iPad that, as the name suggests, relies predominantly on curves for image editing. Overall, there are 20 curve adjustments available which are grouped into so-called kits. Another key feature of MaxCurve is its ability to connect, via Wi-Fi, to a desktop version of Photoshop that is running on a Windows PC or Mac. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Lightroom for mobile for iOS 2.1 brings iPad Pro support and Point Curve

17 Dec

Adobe has today launched version 2.1 of Lightroom for mobile for Apple iOS devices. The update comes with a number of new features, some of which take advantage of new hardware in the Apple iPad Pro and the new iPhone models 6s and 6s Plus. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Nikon D4S dynamic range and tone curve measurements

07 May

D4s_58_1.4_front.png

We’ve updated our first impressions review of the Nikon D4S with our JPEG Tone Curve and Dynamic Range measurements. Included are real-world examples of Nikon’s Active D-Lighting modes, which can significantly help in dealing with scenes containing challenging ranges of (dark to bright) tones. Have a look and, as always, you can compare the D4S to any other camera in our database. Learn more

News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Lightroom’s Tone Curve Explained

12 Sep

It’s no secret that there are many ways to enhance our photographs with Lightroom. By using just a handful of sliders we can get some great results in a matter of minutes and by learning how to use tools like the gradient filter tool we can create some more specialized effects with just a little extra effort.

So with all these great tools is there still a need for the Tone Curve tool in Lightroom 4 and beyond? Or is it just another way of creating the same effects?

What is Lightroom’s Tone Curve Tool?

tonecurve

Well the answer to that question really lies in the details of what you are trying to accomplish with your post production. The Tone Curve tool is designed to allow you to modify the various light levels found within an image in a way that will give you greater control over the tonal range and contrast of your photograph.

As we capture our images we are capturing an array of light from the scene. From the darkest of the shadows to the whitest of the highlights the Tone Curve gives us a way of visually modifying how these levels of lights appear in the final image.

With the changes made to the basic tab back in Lightroom 4 the Tone Curve tool certainly doesn’t boast the power that it once did in comparison, but that doesn’t mean it’s useless. Today I’m going to show you how you can use the tool to modify your images and squeeze every little bit you can out of the tonal range that you’ve captured. As I’ve numbered above there are five ways that we can modify our images using the tool – let’s break them down now.

Number 1 – Make Tone Curve Adjustments by Dragging In Your Photo

I honestly didn’t even notice this button until I started doing research for this article, but it does add a cool little function to the Tone Curve. By clicking on this button your mouse cursor will change allowing you to click and drag within your photo to make adjustments.

As you hover over your image you will notice that a point appears on the Tone Curve in the box to the right. As you move your mouse this point will move according to the light level of the area you are hovering over which makes it easy for you to determine what levels of light need adjustment in your image.

To use this tool simply click and drag up for more or down for less effect of the selected light level. It is important to note that this is a global change so it doesn’t just effect the area where you’re hovering, but all like pixels within the image.

You’ll notice in the image below I dragged down on an area in the green algae and up on a highlight on the frog’s face. The result is more contrast in the final image. Please keep in mind that the examples in this article are extremes done to demonstrate the tool and not necessarily how you would use it in practice.

image1

Number 2 – Adjust Tone Curve by adjusting the curve itself

The Tone Curve itself is something that you can modify simply by clicking and dragging on the areas you wish to change. As you hover over the curve you’ll notice different pieces of the curve will be highlighted to show you what levels of light you are going to effect with your changes and how much room you have to make these changes.

In this photo I added a little more contrast by dropping a point towards the shadows end of the curve and raising a point towards the highlights end of the curve. This can be done in a similar manner with the sliders below the curve (see number 4 for that example).

image2

Number 3 – Adjust the strength of each light level’s region

With this area of the tool we’re controlling the amount that each ‘region’ of light (highlights, lights, darks and shadows) effects the image.

The default settings (which are set in the modified image of #2 on this list) are set at 25, 50, 75 for the three sliders. In the first image below I’ve slid all three sliders to the right (an extreme example I know) which gives the shadow tones a greater impact over the overall photo. In contrast to this, the second image I’ve slid the sliders to the left which as you might expect gives the highlights within the image  more impact. In most cases I never touch the default settings, but they are good to be made aware of and might be useful one day when processing a specific image.

image3

Number 4 – Adjust using the familiar slider set up

Much like the sliders from the basic panel the sliders in the Tone Curve work in a similar manner. Slide left to lower a setting, slide right to raise a setting, double click to reset to zero.

It’s very straight forward and is important to note that it doesn’t do anything different than the other two methods I mentioned above. In fact you’ll notice that when you make any adjustments whether using #1, #2 or #4 the sliders and the tone curve will move to their respective positions regardless of which method you use to make your adjustments.

image4

Number 5 – The Point Curve Presets

Today we are going to only be talking about the three presets of the point curve and save the button in the lower right corner for another day – the presets are as follows – Linear, Medium Contrast and Strong Contrast and as you might expect the names pretty much say it all.

Linear contrast is a default and fairly flat setting and when using this setting you’ll notice that the curve is a straight line from the lower left corner to the top right corner. Medium and Strong contrast presets effect the ends of the curve in either a subtle way or a less subtle way changing the amount of contrast that is applied to the image simply by expanding the ranges of light at the ends of the curve.

In the example below I’ve simply switched from a Linear Curve to a Strong Contrast Curve to show the differences.

image5

When Would You Use the Tone Curve?

So now that we know how to use the tool, the question remains, when would you use it? I find that in my typical workflow I rarely touch the Tone Curve except for a small tweak here or a slight adjustment there. In my eyes the tool is designed to be a final adjustment to your images. Need a little extra shadow detail? Pull them down just a hair. Need some stronger highlights? Pull up on the highlights slider just a bit.

Of course you can get really creative with the Tone Curve to create some very unique and interesting effects and you can even click on the button that I didn’t cover above in the lower right hand corner and have access to the RGB scale and not only modify the overall tonal range, but the range specific to each color level in your photograph – but that’s an entirely different article.

Do You Use The Tone Curve?

With all the power that Lightroom offers in the other areas of it’s program it’s very easy to overlook the tone curve, I know I did for years, and even today I don’t go much further than applying one of the preset point curves to a photo, but I’d love to hear if you use it in your regular workflow and if so which one of the region adjustments do you use most often?

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Lightroom’s Tone Curve Explained


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Creative Color Processing (Part 3/3 – Tone Curve)

10 Jan

This is Part 3 of a 3-part series on creative color effects in Lightroom. In this article I will explain how to use the Tone Curve tool for creative color effects.

Tokyo street scene color settings

Tokyo Street Scene Color Settings

In Part 1 of this series I covered white balance. I discussed split toning in Part 2, as well as how to use split toning and white balance together. If you missed parts 1 or 2, check them out here:

Creative Color Processing (Part 1/3 – White Balance)
Creative Color Processing (Part 2/3 – Split Toning)

Tone curve is perhaps the most powerful tool in our creative color tool box. Tone curve is usually used for precise contrast control, but with Lr 4, we now have access to the individual RGB channels via the tone curve adjustment. Prior to Lr 4, this type of edit required Photoshop.

Note: this technique only works in Lightroom 4 and requires the 2012 process. Check out these articles to learn about Lightroom process versions if you’re not sure what this means:

Understanding Lightroom Process Versions
5 Tips for a Faster Lightroom Workflow

Editing Individual Color Channels with Tone Curve

To access the separate RGB channels in the Tone Curve you need to switch to the point curve adjustment:

1. Click the point curve box in the bottom right of the Tone Curve control:

Editing the point curve in Lightroom

Editing the point curve in Lightroom

2. Choose the color channel you want to work with.

Selecting a color channel in the point curve

Selecting a color channel in the point curve

Each tone curve actually controls a pair of colors, and the shades between them. To illustrate this, let’s take a look at this image of joss sticks, that I shot at a temple in Singapore. First, here’s the image without any color adjustments:

Joss sticks without color adjustments

Joss sticks without color adjustments

Red Channel

The red channel controls the color range from red to cyan, think of it as the Red / Cyan curve:

The red channel controls the red / cyan balance

The red channel controls the red / cyan balance

Green Channel

The green controls the color range from green to magenta, think of it as the Green / Magenta curve:

The green channel controls the green / magenta balance

The green channel controls the green / magenta balance

Blue Channel

The blue channel controls the color range from blue to yellow, think of it as the Blue / Yellow curve:

The blue channel controls the blue / yellow balance

The blue channel controls the blue / yellow balance

The possibilities are endless here, but I’ve found that the blue channel is often the most useful for creative color effects. Simply select the channel you want to work with and click the tone curve to begin adding points. To get rid of a point on the curve, grab it with your mouse and pull it to the side, out of the graph area.

Tips for Editing Color with Tone Curve

1. Play around with the shadow tones, a slight color tint in the just shadow areas of your photo is sometimes just enough to make people stop and stare.

2. Treat the shadows differently than the highlights, this is like taking split toning to the next level. Or the next, next level.

3. Keep at it. It takes time to develop your eye for color, and it takes time to develop your own aesthetic. Over time you will gravitate toward a particular “look” for your images. Just as a musician finds his or her sound, you will find a signature look for your photography. The key is to just keep tinkering, until you find it.

Putting It All Together

Japanese Temple in the Snow - Natural ColorTo conclude this 3-part series on creative color processing in Lightroom 4, here’s an image that combines all three of the techniques that I discussed in the series: white balance, split toning, and tone curve.

This is a photo of my wife standing in front of a temple in Takasaki, Japan. A sudden snow storm created an interesting photo opportunity that was too good to miss. The photo at right shows the colors as produced by the camera. The camera was set to auto white balance, which resulted in a white balance value of 4350 for this shot.

I wanted to bring out the mood of the snowy day, and also give the photo a bit of a timeless feel. To do this I combined a cool white balance with a yellow / blue split tone, as well as tone curve adjustments in the green and blue channels. The white balance adjustment gives the image a cold feel. The split toning emphasizes the cold feel by adding blue to the shadows, while also adding yellow to the highlights to keep the snow from looking blue. Finally tone curve adjustments in the green and blue channels give an interesting color cast, mostly to the shadow areas.

Here’s the final result:

Japanese Temple in the Snow - Creative Color

Japanese Temple in the Snow – Creative Color

This concludes the 3-part series on creative color effects in Lightroom 4. I hope I’ve inspired you to think creatively about color and given you some new ideas and techniques for getting creative with your photographs. I appreciate feedback, please comment below or feel free to connect with me through Facebook or Google+. I’ll do my best to answer questions and reply to comments.

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Creative Color Processing (Part 3/3 – Tone Curve)


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