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1 Year with the Fujifilm X-T3 – Was It Worth Buying?

23 Jan

The post 1 Year with the Fujifilm X-T3 – Was It Worth Buying? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

1-year-with-the-fujifil-x-t3

It’s been just over 1 year since the Fujifilm X-T3 debuted. This popular APS-C mirrorless camera replaced the beloved X-T2, but it also added lots of video features, leading many to declare the X-T3 the best hybrid mirrorless cameras of 2019. After shooting for 1 year with the Fujifilm X-T3, I’ll share my thoughts on the camera in this article.

Why I Chose Fujifilm

Throughout my 10-year career as a professional photographer, I have always reached for a full-frame camera. During the DSLR days, I bounced between the Nikon D700 and Canon 5D Mark III.

When it came time to go mirrorless, I went with the Sony a7R III. As a concert and event photographer, I am often prohibited from using flash and always need the option to shoot at high ISOs. I also value quick, accurate autofocus. In both of those regards, the Sony a7 series made the most sense when I went mirrorless in 2018.

So how did Fujifilm get into the picture? My husband and I jumped into videography together at around the same time. He was attracted to Fujifilm for its film simulations and ergonomics that are similar to film cameras.

When the Fujifilm X-H1 came out, he jumped on it because of its superior video features, including IBIS (in-body stabilization).

As we started shooting videos together, we found it difficult to quickly and accurately match the colors of his Fujifilm to my Sony camera. Since he already had a large Fujifilm lens collection, it made sense for me to simply pick up a camera body so that we could share lenses. So the X-T3 ended up in my hands primarily as a video camera.

1 Year with the Fujifilm X-T3 - Was It Worth Buying?

Ergonomics

If you have never shot with a film camera or Fujifilm camera before, they can take some getting used to. Prior to the X-T3, I had never shot with a camera that wasn’t a full-frame DSLR. It took me a couple of weeks to get used to using the top dials to set my shutter speed and ISO. It took even longer to get accustomed to the aperture ring on the lens.

After a year with the X-T3, I am much more comfortable with its dials and settings, but I dislike the fact that I need two hands to shoot with this camera. On virtually any other DSLR or mirrorless camera, you can adjust all settings using just one hand, making it faster to shoot on the fly.

Fujifilm X-T3 one year later

X-T3 as a video camera

I intended to use the Fujifilm X-T3 primarily as a video camera. Fortunately, those features worked out perfectly, and one year later, the X-T3 is still my favorite for shooting videos.

This camera can shoot 4K video at up to 60 fps in 10-bit 4:2:0 color, and you can select a bitrate of up to 400Mbps for frame rates of 30p and below. That’s a lot of jargon, but it essentially means that the X-T3 is capable of outputting high-quality video footage.

In my experience, the video is razor-sharp, and thanks to Fujifilm film simulations, the colors look stunning straight out of the camera.

The X-T3 offers F-log recording to produce a flat video that can be color graded in post-production. However, film simulations are so good that you don’t need to color grade these videos. Saving time in editing was the main reason that drew me to Fujifilm, and I’m happy to say that it did not disappoint.

Previous Fujifilm cameras omitted essential videography features such as a headphone jack of monitoring audio. Not so with the X-T3. This camera has both a mic jack and headphone jack built into the camera, allowing you to capture high-quality audio. The only thing that this camera is sorely missing is IBIS or in-body image stabilization for capturing steady video. Thankfully, image stabilization is present in many Fujifilm X lenses, but you still need to pop the X-T3 on a gimbal to get ultra-smooth footage.

Image: Fujifilm X-T3 with Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 lens. Focal length 18mm (in 35mm: 27mm), 1/250...

Fujifilm X-T3 with Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 lens. Focal length 18mm (in 35mm: 27mm), 1/250 sec, f/6.4, ISO 320, Aperture Priority

X-T3 as a photo camera

Even though I intended to use the X-T3 for video, I inevitably used it for photography. Thanks to the relatively compact size of the camera, and the accompanying Fujifilm X-Series lenses, the Fuji X-T3 is a solid travel camera.

Also, similar to videos, photo colors look stunning straight-out-of-camera when using film simulations, and you arguably needn’t shoot in RAW to save room on your memory cards.

Autofocus (AF) is vastly improved on the X-T3. The camera offers phase-detect AF with 425 selectable AF points spanning over the entire frame. Continuous autofocus does a great job of locking onto and tracking subjects, and there is also face and eye autofocus that works well.

In continuous shooting mode, the X-T3 can shoot at up to 11 frames per second (fps) using the mechanical shutter, or 30 fps with the electronic shutter. This is a crazy fast speed that rivals top sports photography cameras.

Fujifilm X-T3 one year later

Fujifilm X-T3 with Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 lens. Focal length 18mm (in 35mm: 28mm), 1/180 sec, f/3.6, ISO 800, Aperture Priority

Wish List

I base most of my wish list features on my experiences shooting with full-frame cameras, such as the Sony a7r III, which I think pulls off these features better.

First, is autofocus.

Even though the X-T3 has much-improved autofocus, it isn’t as fast and accurate as Sony’s. Eye autofocus, in particular, is much more effective on Sony.

Second is low light performance.

On my Sony, I’m comfortable shooting at ISO 6400-8000, whereas I won’t push the X-T3 past ISO 4000. To a degree, this isn’t a fair comparison. Full-frame cameras will always shoot a cleaner image at higher ISOs, but there’s always room for improvement.

Finally, the battery life on the Fujifilm X-T3 quite frankly sucks.

I generally need 3 batteries for a full day of shooting on the X-T3, whereas a single battery will get me through 1+ days of shooting with the Sony a7r III.

I understand that increased battery life often results in a larger battery and, therefore, a larger camera, but it would still be a welcome addition. In the meantime, you can increase the battery life by using the Fujifilm battery grip, or you can charge the camera via its included USB-C port.

In Conclusion

All-in-all, you can’t go wrong with the Fujifilm X-T3. It produces incredibly sharp photos and videos with incredible colors straight out of the camera.

The camera and its accompanying lenses are compact and quite durable, especially when considering their price points, which are relatively lower when compared to other camera brands.

There are cameras out there that have better features such as autofocus, but the Fujifilm X-T3 will suit the needs of most photographers out there.

Have you used the Fujifilm X-T3? Have you spent more than 1 year with the Fujifilm X-T3? What are your thoughts? Please share them with us in the comments.

Fujifilm X-T3 one year later

Fujifilm X-T3 with Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 lens. Focal length 18mm (in 35mm: 28mm), 1/90 sec, f/2.8, ISO 2000, Aperture Priority

Fujifilm X-T3 one year later

Fujifilm X-T3 with Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 lens. Focal length 32.9mm (in 35mm: 49mm), 1/60 sec, f/3.6, ISO 2000, Aperture Priority

Fujifilm X-T3 one year later

Fujifilm X-T3 with Fujifilm XF 35mm F2 lens. Focal length 35mm (in 35mm: 53mm), 1/90 sec, f/3.2, ISO 2000, Aperture Priority

Fujifilm X-T3 one year later

Sony A7R III with Sony FE 55mm F1.8 lens. Focal length 55mm (in 35mm: 55mm), 1/60 sec, f/9, ISO 1600, Aperture Priority

 

You may also like:

  • Fujifilm Fujinon XF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens Review
  • Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
  • The Fujifilm X-Pro 3: Marvellous or Mistake?
  • Fujifilm GFX100 Camera Review
  • The Best Fujifilm X-Series Kits for Travel Photography
  • Fujifilm X-T3 versus Fujifilm X-H1: The Best Mirrorless Camera for You?
  • Gear Review: Fujifilm 50-140mm vs 55-200mm

 

The post 1 Year with the Fujifilm X-T3 – Was It Worth Buying? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.


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2019 buying guide: Best cameras for kids

24 Nov

Whether you’re looking for a nearly unbreakable camera that your toddler can throw against the wall, or something for an older child who’s keen to learn more about photography, there are several options available that won’t break the bank.

We’ve broken this guide down into four categories:

  • It’s okay if it breaks
  • Rugged and inexpensive
  • Indestructible, with great image quality
  • For the budding photographer

Here are our picks for each of those categories:

It’s okay if it breaks: VTech KidiZoom Camera Pix ($ 40)

(Yes, it comes in pink too)

There are a million cameras in the $ 50 and under price range to choose from, and this VTech model is one of the most popular. The Camera Pix has a 2 Megapixel sensor (presumably smaller than that of a smartphone), 4X digital zoom, micro USB port, and both built-in memory and a microSD slot. The camera is rugged to some extent (though VTech doesn’t give any specifics) but is not waterproof. The KidiZoom also powered by four AA batteries – a bargain compared to $ 60 lithium-ion packs found in typical digital cameras.

Kids can take pictures through stereo viewfinders or with the 1.8″ LCD on the rear. In addition to taking stills, the KidiZoom also captures QVGA (that’s 320 x 240) videos for up to 5 minutes.

The KidiZoom has a few other tricks up its sleeve. The camera has an selfie mode, where it takes a photo when it detects faces. It also has four built-in games (!) and tons of special effects.

Overall, the VTech KidiZoom seems like a fun and inexpensive way to get your five-year-old into photography, and if it does break, it’s only $ 40 for a replacement.

Rugged and inexpensive: Nikon Coolpix W150 ($ 150)

If you want something a little more ‘camera-like’ than the cheap options, then the inexpensive yet rugged Nikon Coolpix W150 may be a good option.

The W150 can survive a drop from 1.8 meters (5.9 feet) and can function up at depths of up to 10m (33ft), so it’ll be alive if you find it at the bottom of the swimming pool. If you take it to the snow park, the camera should keep working at temperatures as low as -10°C (14°F). The camera is also dustproof, so the beach shouldn’t be a problem, either.

The design of the W150 is simple, with simple controls and large shutter release and video buttons. As with all current underwater cameras, it lacks a touchscreen, so there will be a small learning curve for a child used to a smartphone.

Tech specs for the W150 are unremarkable, but then again, that’s not why you’re buying it. The camera has a smartphone-sized 13MP sensor, 30-90mm equivalent lens, 2.7″ LCD and 1080p video capture. It does offer Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, so getting photos onto your phone is easy.

Indestructible, with great image quality: Olympus Tough TG-6 ($ 399)

If you want a higher quality camera for a child who is more… responsible… with your electronics, then the Olympus TG-6 is a great option. Its rugged credentials are even better than the Nikon, with the ability to go much further underwater or get crushed (within reason). Build quality is excellent, with two locks on both of its doors and dual-paned glass to prevent the lens from fogging up.

The TG-6’s larger sensor and faster lens (which offers a versatile 25-100mm equiv. range) make it a capable point-and-shoot, even in low light. It won’t run circles around best-in-class smartphones in terms of image quality, but it’s the best you’ll find on a waterproof camera.

We could write a whole article about all of the features on the TG-6, but suffice it to say, it can shoot very fast bursts, capture photos that were ‘taken’ before the shutter release is fully pressed, take some truly impressive long exposures and records 4K video. If your youngster enjoys hiking, the camera’s ability to record the location, elevation and temperature for each shot make reviewing images more fun than a typical camera or phone.

For the budding photographer: Canon PowerShot G9 X II ($ 429)

If you have an older child who is developing a keen eye for photography and want something they can grow up with, we recommend Canon’s PowerShot G9 X II, which can be had for under $ 450. This camera is pocketable, produces very good image quality from its 1″ sensor and has a touch-based interface that smartphone users will quickly pick up.

The stabilized lens offers a 28-84mm equivalent focal range which, while not as versatile as more expensive enthusiast compacts, is more than enough for a pre-teen. Beginners can set the mode dial to the Smart Auto mode and the camera does the rest, like selecting the right scene mode for the situation. The are plenty of special effects modes, with ‘background defocus’ being one example, and some fun star modes that are easy to set up and enjoy. Transferring photos to a smartphone is a cinch using the camera’s Wi-Fi and Bluetooth.

As your child grows, the G9 X II will be ready, offering manual exposure controls, advanced AF modes and Raw support, which opens the door to using more advanced cameras.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

18 Oct

The post 5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

I’ve bought a lot of used gear over the last decade.

Cameras.

Lenses.

Batteries.

And more.

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

A lot of those purchases turned out great. Some of them I still use to this day.

But a large chunk of the used purchases I made?

Trash.

In fact, in my more naive years, I was forced to return over 50% of the gear that I purchased. There were just so many problems: sand in focusing rings, stains on the front element, shutter buttons that couldn’t communicate with the shutter. (Oh, and my least favorite: Fungus inside the lens. Doesn’t that just make you shiver?)

And here’s the kicker:

I bought all of this gear through respectable buyers, who described the equipment as in “excellent condition,” “flawless,” “perfect,” “like new,” – you name it.

It got so bad that I considered leaving the used market entirely and just buying new. But I resisted.

Why?

Used camera gear is a real bargain – if you buy carefully. This is why I took all of my negative gear-buying experiences and turned them into a process for making sure I purchased good used gear.

At the core of that process is a series of questions. Questions that I’m going to share with you today. Some of the questions are for you, the buyer. Others should be posed to the seller before you put any cash down.

Are you ready to discover how to buy used gear effectively?

Let’s get started!

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

Question 1: Are you buying from a reputable seller with a money-back guarantee?

This is the number one most important thing that you should do when buying used gear.

Purchase from a seller that you trust – and that gives you an enforceable money-back guarantee. You don’t want to purchase a camera online, only to find that it’s full of water damage and sports a cracked LCD.

This means that buying used through Amazon is fine. All of their products are backed by Amazon month-long guarantees.

Buying used through eBay is also fine. Ebay’s buyer protection ensures that you’re not going to get ripped off in such an obvious fashion.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

But this makes most forums (if not all forums) off-limits. If the forum doesn’t have a serious money-back guarantee that’s honored by the site itself, then stay away.

This also makes in-person sales off-limits, such as those done through Craigslist. Sure, you can inspect the item upon receipt, but what are you going to do when you get home, put that lens under a light, and realize it’s filled with an army of fungus?

It’ll be too late, and your seller may not be so receptive to a return.

So just don’t do it. Instead, use sites like Amazon, eBay, B&H, or KEH, which all have clear money-back guarantees.

Question 2: Does the seller include actual pictures of the gear?

Sellers not including pictures is a big warning sign, especially on a website like eBay, where pictures are the norm. It should make you ask: Why doesn’t the seller want to show off their “excellent condition” item? Is there something they’re trying to hide?

Another red flag is only showing a stock photo. These are easy to spot; they look way better than anything that a casual, eBay-selling photographer would have taken, and there tends to be only one or two of them.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

If you like the price and everything else checks out, then go ahead and shoot the seller an email, asking for in-depth pictures of the item. If the seller refuses, then it’s time to look elsewhere.

You might come across some sellers who are offering many units of the same item (e.g., five Canon 7D Mark II’s). In this case, they likely have shown a stock photo, or a photo of one item, because they don’t want to go through the effort of photographing each piece of kit.

In such cases, you should message the seller and ask for pictures of the exact item that you’ll be purchasing. It’s too easy, especially with these big sellers, to end up with an item that you’ll have to send back.

Question 3: How many shutter actuations has the camera fired?

(Note: This section is for buying cameras.)

First things first: A shutter actuation refers to a single shot taken with a camera.

Every camera has a number of actuations its shutter is rated for. Once the shutter has reached around that point, it just…fails. While you can get the shutter replaced, it generally costs enough that you’re probably better off buying a new camera body.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

If you want to know the shutter actuation rating of any particular camera, you can look it up through a quick Google search.

Of course, the shutter rating isn’t a hard and fast rule. There are some cameras that go far beyond their predicted shutter count, and there are some cameras that fail far sooner. The shutter count is just an average.

Now, when you look at camera listings online, you’ll see that shutter actuations are reported about fifty percent of the time.

But the other fifty percent of the time, there will be no mention of them.

This is for three possible reasons:

  1. The seller doesn’t know about the importance of shutter actuations.
  2. The seller can’t figure out how to determine the shutter actuations for their camera.
  3. The seller doesn’t wish to share the shutter count because it won’t help the sale.

I would never buy a camera without knowing its shutter count. Therefore, I recommend reaching out to the seller and asking.

If the seller refuses to share the count, then let the camera go. If the seller claims they don’t know how to view the shutter count, explain that they should be able to find it easily, either within the camera itself or through a website such as https://www.camerashuttercount.com/.

If they still won’t give you the count, then don’t buy. It’s not worth risking it.

Question Four: Does the lens have any blemishes on the glass, fungus, scratches, haze, or problems with the focusing ring?

(Note that this is for purchasing lenses.)

This is a question to ask the seller, and I suggest you do it every single time you make a purchase.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

Yes, the seller may be annoyed by your specific question. But this is a transaction; it’s not about being nice to the seller! And I’ve never had someone refuse to sell to me because I annoyed them with questions.

In fact, what makes this question so valuable is that it often forces sellers to actually consider the equipment they’re selling. Up until this point, the seller may not have really thought about some of these things. So it can act as a bit of a wake-up call and make the seller describe the item beyond “excellent condition.”

When you ask this question, make it clear that you want a detailed description. You genuinely want the seller to check for scratches on the glass, fungus in the lens, problems with the focusing ring, and more. You don’t want a perfunctory examination.

Unfortunately, there will still be some people who don’t do a serious examination, or who lie in the hopes that you won’t notice the issues (or be bothered enough to make a return). But asking the question is the best you can do.

Question Five: Has the seller noticed any issues with the item in the past?

This is another question to ask the seller before you hit the Buy button. It’s meant as a final attempt to determine whether the item has any issues.

In this case, by asking about the item’s past.

5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear

Unfortunately, there will be sellers who have had an item break repeatedly – but, as long as it’s working at the moment they take the photos, they’ll give it the “perfect condition” label. Fortunately, many sellers will still be honest with you. If they’ve had a problem with the item, they’ll say.

So it’s definitely worth asking – just to be safe.

5 Questions to ask before buying used camera gear: Conclusion

Now that you know the five most important questions to ask before buying used camera gear, you’re well equipped to start buying gear online.

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

Yes, you’re still going to run into the occasional issue, but if you’re careful, and you think about these crucial questions to ask before buying used camera gear…

…the number of issues will be far, far lower.

And you’ll be able to effectively take advantage of used camera equipment!

Questions-to-Ask-Before-Buying-Used-Camera-Gear

The post 5 Questions to Ask Before Buying Used Camera Gear appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


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Updated with new winners: Best cameras for travel buying guide

27 Sep

The Sony RX100 VII takes the place of its predecessor as our top recommendation for travel, with the Canon G5 X Mark II earning an honorable mention as a solid option for low-light photography.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Updated: Best cameras over $2000 Buying Guide

20 Sep

Our guide to the best cameras over $ 2000 has been updated to include overviews of some of the latest contenders.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Best camera bargains buying guide updated

03 Jul

You don’t need to buy the latest and greatest camera to take amazing photos. Our newly updated ‘best camera bargains’ buying guide highlights some slightly older cameras that are still worth your consideration.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Analog gems: 10 additional film cameras worth buying right now

08 Jun

Analog gems part 2

Back in 2017 we shared our list of 10 excellent, affordable film cameras worth considering. Jump to today, in 2019, and public interest in analog photography has only continued to grow. So much so that we thought it was high time to revisit our original list and call out ten more film cameras worthy of your time and money.

These cameras were selected based on reader feedback, research and the staff’s collective analog lust. All of them can be found pretty easily on the second-hand market in good working order, most for a relative bargain. So get ready to hunt through your freezer for a long-expired roll of film, it’s time for Analog Gems Part 2.

Read Analog Gems part 1Note: cameras are arranged from least to most expensive.

Nikon EM

History: The Nikon EM was by all measures, a commercial flop for the brand. Yet decades later it has endured as Nikon’s smallest, lightest and best-looking (opinion) film SLR. Launched in 1979, this Aperture Priority-only camera was reportedly built with female shooters in mind – the stylish good looks are courtesy of famed auto designer Giorgetto Giugiaro. It’s anyone’s guess why the camera sold poorly; manufacturing stopped by 1982, but the theory is most women at the time preferred the EM’s fully-manual siblings to what is essentially a simplified, fashion-forward, budget model. Still, despite its entry-level status, the EM is as reliable as its pricier siblings from the same era.

If you’re after a small, handsome little camera that’s super simple to use, look no further

Why we like it: If you’re after a small, handsome little camera that’s super simple to use, look no further. The EM features a very accurate center-weighted meter that’s powered by two S76 or A76 batteries. A small button below the film rewind acts as a negative two stop exposure compensation when pressed. The camera is fully electronic in operation but can function on no juice with limited shutter speeds – an ‘M90’ mode locks the shutter speed at 1/90 sec, the camera’s standard ‘Auto’ mode sets the shutter speed to 1/1000 sec. The body is mostly built of a copper and aluminum alloy, though the top and bottom covers are polycarbonate.

Find one: These cameras are incredibly easy to come across in new, or like-new condition for between $ 20 and $ 75. They only come in black. The EM’s arrival on the scene also brought with it the introduction of Nikon’s budget E line of glass. Of this line, the 50mm F1.8 E and the 100mm F2.8 E are both impressive performers and quite compact in size. It’s very easy to find the former kitted with the EM on places like Ebay.

Also consider: The Nikon FM was a step up from the EM – they’re a little pricier and chunkier but come with full manual controls.

Konica C35 EF

History: The C35 EF is a compact rangefinder camera that debuted in 1975. It sports a very sharp 38mm F2.8 lens and the World’s first pop-up flash. Other than choosing to activate the flash or not, the camera is fully automatic in nature. A small red light on the back illuminates if the exposure is too dark and the flash is needed. Focus is set by choosing one of four zones.

Why we like it: A personal favorite of Andy Warhol, there’s something oh-so-appealing about these boxy little cameras. They’re fairly well-built, easy to use and an eye-catcher for sure. Perhaps most importantly, the lens is very sharp and metering/flash output tends to be accurate. The flash is powered by standard AA batteries. The meter uses a discontinued 1.35v mercury cell battery, however the MR-44 battery adapter will allow you to use a common silver oxide battery (392 or SR41) instead without any issues.

A personal favorite of Andy Warhol, there’s something oh so appealing about these boxy little cameras

Find one: You can find a C35 EF used, in good condition for between $ 20 and $ 75. They come in two varieties, the later version has a self timer (and a greater range of shutter speeds for the camera to choose from).

Also consider: The C35 EF3 debuted several years after the original C35 and sports a redesigned 35mm F2.8 lens. It’s also got a lighter body and has an even greater range of shutter speeds for the camera to select from. Available in 7 colors, including a cherry red variety, these can be a little trickier and pricier to track down than the original C35 EF.

Note: The C35 EF3 is shown above

Fujifilm Instant Mini 70

History: Launched in 2011, the Fujifilm Instax Mini 70 is one of the brand’s most-stylish and affordable instant cameras. As its name suggests, it uses the Fujifilm’s Instax Mini format, which comes in packs of 10. The Instax brand itself was actually first introduced back in 1998 and has grown extremely popular, especially in recent years.

Why we like it: Of all the instant cameras currently on the market, we picked the Mini 70 as our favorite thanks to its balance of price to features. It’s lightweight, looks cool and is very easy to operate. The camera’s powered by two lithium CR2 batteries which provide ample power for many packs of film. It’s also fairly well-built and offers some very basic manual controls (+2/3rd EV and flash on/off).

It’s light-weight, looks cool and is easy to operate

Find one: These cameras are still being made and can be purchased new in a wide variety of fun colors for around $ 50-75. We like Island Blue.

Also consider: The Fujifilm Instax Wide 300 uses the brand’s largest format instant film and is both easy to operate and well-built. It’s certainly a chunky beast of a camera, but that’s par for the course in this format.

Olympus OM-1/N

History: The Olympus OM-1 is a small, lightweight SLR that debuted in the early 1970’s at Photokina. It was originally called the M-1, which didn’t make Leica too happy (given their existing M-series rangefinder line), so the name was later changed to OM-1. Purely mechanical in nature, the OM-1 offers only manual controls. The OM-1N was a slightly updated model offering a redesigned wind lever, and some improvements designed to make it easier to work with a flash.

Why we like it: The OM-1 features a large viewfinder packed into a small, light SLR. It’s an attractive little camera that has some unusual design elements, like its shutter speed dial around the lens barrel. These cameras are very well-built and only need batteries to operate the meter, which takes a now-discontinued 1.35v mercury cell battery. But not to worry, there’s an adapter for that too – the MR-9 battery adapter will allow you to use a common silver oxide battery (386).

It’s an attractive little camera that has some unique design elements

Find one: These cameras can easily be found in good condition for between $ 50 and $ 150 in the two-tone silver-and-black variety. An all-black version is also available but for a good bit more cash. The OM-1 often sells with the original kitted 50mm F1.8 lens.

Also consider: The Olympus OM-2 can be purchased for just a little more than the original OM-1 and gives you automatic exposure controls as well as manual controls. There’s also no mercury battery to worry about . However the camera is fully electronically controlled, so power is needed to use most shutter speeds.

Photo by Alan Drummond

Pentax MX

History: The Pentax MX was released as a professional-level camera in 1976 during a time when competition in the SLR market was stiff and SLRs were getting ever smaller. The MX remained Pentax’s flagship until the 1980s. Externally similar to the Pentax ME, the MX is purely mechanical and offers only manual controls. The ME on the other hand is electronically-controlled with both manual and auto functions. The former was geared toward professionals, the latter toward enthusiasts.

Why we like it: The Pentax MX is a handsome camera – it’s among the smallest and lightest SLRs on our list (second to the Nikon EM) and very well constructed. Operation is fully-mechanical, so if the battery dies (two LR44 batteries) you only lose the lightmeter. Controls are simple and direct – the viewfinder is impressively large.

The Pentax MX is among the smallest and lightest SLRs in our list

Find one: The Pentax MX can be found in good condition for between $ 75 and $ 200, often with the original kitted Pentax 50mm F2 included (splurge on the much nicer 50mm F1.7 if you can find it). The two-tone silver-and-black models are far easier to find than the all-black finish.

Also consider: The Pentax ME is similar in size and weight to the MX and can be found for considerably less cash. It doesn’t have the same reputation for reliability as the MX and requires batteries to operate (except at 1/100 sec), but it is still a very good bang for your buck.

Photo by Pierre-Jean Parra

Canon T90

History: Introduced as Canon’s flagship camera in 1986, the T90 is also arguably the most advanced FD-mount camera ever made. The year after its debut Canon unveiled the all-electronic EF-mount on EOS cameras with support for autofocusing lenses, effectively nailing the coffin shut on future FD development. Still, the T90 offers a ton of modern features – like a top plate display, multi-function control dial and incredibly sophisticated ambient and flash metering modes, plus 4.5 fps burst shooting – in a tough, beautiful body. Its release also ushered in a more curvaceous era of Canon SLR design, one we’re still very much in. The Current EOS-1D X Mark II owes a lot to the T90, after more than 30 years.

Why we like it: It’s almost impossible to hold the T90 and not think about modern Canon DSLRs – so much of their ergonomic excellence is rooted in this camera. From a usability standpoint, the T90 is a pleasure to shoot with – it’s powered by 4 AA batteries. Nicknamed ‘The Tank,’ these cameras can take a lot of abuse. Did we mention 4.5 fps continuous shooting?

The T90 offers a ton of modern features like 4.5 fps burst shooting

Find one: There are some common T90 problems to keep an eye out for, like sticky shutters and faded top plate LCDs, but it’s not hard to find one in great working order. Good condition models can be had for between $ 150 and $ 250, body-only. And because the FD mount was discontinued, lenses for the T90 are often a bargain. Just be aware, almost every second-hand T90 will be missing its original eyecup.

Also consider: The Canon T70 is the boxy, more 80s-looking predecessor to the T90. It offers a top plate LCD, continuous shooting (a lackluster 0.7 fps) and multiple metering modes. Unlike the T90 it is a fully-automatic camera. You can find them for around $ 50.

Nikon FE2

History: We wavered back and forth between recommending the FE2 and the FM2 and ultimately chose the former as they’re easier to find in good condition, for a decent price. These two mid-range cameras are very similar both in design and in terms of their reliability – both are also relatively light and compact for an SLR. The FM2 was released in 1982 and only has manual controls, while the FE2 was released in 1983 and has both manual and automatic controls. The ‘M’ in FM2 refers to it’s purely mechanical design, the ‘E’ in FE2 refers to its electronically-controlled design.

Why we like it: The FE2 can be operated in a fully manual capacity or in an aperture priority mode. Conveniently, you can adjust exposure compensation by + / – 2 stops (available in third stop increments) when shooting in aperture priority. Metering is center-weighted and accurate. The camera is powered by two S76 or A76 batteries and will still work with no batteries, albeit in a limited capability (only 1/250 sec and bulb). These cameras are very well built and easy to come across in good working order.

These cameras are very well-built and easy to come across in good working order

Find one: You can expect to pay between $ 150 and $ 250 for an FE2 in nice condition, though that price seems to slowly be creeping upwards. They come in both all-black as well as two-tone black and silver. If you score a particularly minty one you can likely expect it to serve you for many years to come.

Also consider: The original Nikon FE can be had for a bit less money than the FE2, and you don’t sacrifice much (slower top shutter speed, flash sync speed, no TTL flash). On the other hand, for more cash you can get yourself the purists’ camera in a Nikon FM2.

Photo by Paul Chin

Konica Big Mini BM-200 or 300-series

History: There are a few different varieties of the Konica Big Mini that came out in the early 90’s – including several with zoom lenses. For simplicity’s sake we will focus on the non-zooming BM-200 and 300-series (which are quite similar). These lightweight point-and-shoots sport the same sharp 35mm F3.5 lens and are fully-automatic in nature. Two LEDs in the viewfinder let users know whether autofocus can be achieved and whether the flash will fire.

The flash output is well-balanced and the lens is impressively sharp

Why we like it: Big Minis are simple to use and provide excellent results – the flash output is well-balanced and the lens is impressively sharp. There’s also something to be said for their understated rectangular design. They can, however, be a tad fragile due to their mostly plastic construction. But treat a Big Mini with a little TLC and it’ll likely keep on snapping for years. One more note of caution: Be careful not to open the rear door too far when loading/unloading a roll as doing so can tear a crucial bit of electric ribbon. This is the primary failure point on these cameras. The Big Mini is powered by a CR123 battery.

Find one: These cameras can be found in good condition for between $ 150 and $ 250. They come in both silver and dark grey.

Also consider: The Big Mini F sports an even faster 35mm F2.8 lens and same boxy form-factor but tends to cost a fair bit more than its slower siblings.

Nikon F100

History: The Nikon F100 is a modern film SLR released in 1999, the same year as the Nikon D1. Slated right below the flagship Nikon F5 (and later F6) in the company’s film SLR lineup, it sports many pro-level features like Nikon’s excellent Matrix metering (as well as spot and center-weighted), 4.5 fps shooting, automatic bracketing and a variety of autofocus modes.

The F100 operates and handles a lot like a modern Nikon DSLR

Why we like it: The F100 operates and handles a lot like a modern Nikon DSLR – it looks like one too. It’s these familiar controls and use of the F-mount make it the perfect camera if you’ve got Nikon glass and are curious about trying your hands at film shooting. The F100 is also well-constructed, though a tad hefty for a film SLR – power comes from 4 AA batteries or an optional MB-15 battery pack. One word of caution: The rubber covering on the back of these cameras has a tendency to get sticky with age – this can be rectified with some careful (and time-consuming) scraping.

Find one: Because the F100 came out toward the end of the film era, these feature-packed cameras can be found for relatively little cash. Pick one up in good condition for $ 150-250. They only come in black.

Also consider: The Nikon F90 series debuted a few years prior to the F100 and offers many of the same features, but with only a single autofocus point. They can be found pretty easily for less than $ 50.

Photo by Ángeles Andrade

Fujifilm GS645S

History: Fujifilm made some wacky-looking medium format cameras in the 80’s and this one is no exception – just look at that bumper. The GS645S belongs to the greater GS645 family of compact, fixed lens medium format cameras, all of which shoot a 4.5 x 6 image. The ’S’ model offers a 60mm F4 lens that produces a 35mm (35mm-equiv.) field of view. Focusing and exposure controls are all located around the lens. There are no auto settings.

Because it shoots 4.5 x 6, you get 15 shots per roll

Why we like it: The GS645S is an excellent small and lightweight medium format option for street or travel photography. The lens is sharp and the camera is well-built. Power comes from two LR44 batteries. Because it shoots 4.5 x 6, users get 15 shots per roll. And though the default vertical orientation takes some getting use to, the camera can easily be operated vertically (for a horizontal field of view).

Find one: These cameras are slowly creeping up in price but can usually be found in good condition for between $ 300 and $ 450.

Also consider: The GS645S’ siblings are also worth your consideration. The original GS645 features a collapsible 75mm F3.4 lens and the GS645W features a 45mm F5.6 lens. You’ll pay around the same price for these models.

The wrap

There you have it, 10 cameras ranging from 70’s SLR classics to odd-ball 80’s compacts. As always, feel free to suggest other great analog camera buys in our comment section below. And for more analog fun, jump back to our original list: Analog gems: 10 excellent, affordable film cameras. Feel free to leave suggestions for Part 3 in the comments.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Best fixed prime lens buying guide updated with Ricoh GR III, Leica Q2 and Fujifilm XF10

06 Jun

We’ve updated our ‘best fixed prime lens camera’ buying guide, adding the Leica Q2, Fujifilm XF10 and Ricoh GR III. Despite some solid competition, the Fujifilm X100F remains as our top choices in this category.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Waterproof camera buying guide updated, Olympus TG-6 wins recommendation

24 May

We’ve updated our waterproof camera buying guide with the latest round of rugged compacts, and we’ve crowned a new winner as the best pick in the category: the Olympus TG-6. That is, unless you happen to find a good deal on the TG-5.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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2019 Buying Guide: Best instant cameras

21 May

Looking to get in on the instant camera fun? We tried every model and think the Fujifilm Instax Mini 70 strikes the right balance between price and features – the Instax Wide 300 is our choice if you crave a larger format.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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