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Zone Focusing: How to (Always) Capture Sharp Street Photos

02 Aug

The post Zone Focusing: How to (Always) Capture Sharp Street Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.

zone focusing: how to capture sharp street photos

Do you struggle to capture consistently sharp, in-focus street photos? You’re not alone.

In street photography, consistently nailing focus, especially if you don’t have the opportunity to look through your camera’s viewfinder, can be insanely difficult (and often seems impossible).

That’s where zone focusing comes in.

You see, zone focusing lets you set your focus in advance. And then, when your subject steps into the frame, snap – you get the shot.

Not every street photographer zone focuses, but the ones who do swear by it. And while I use autofocus when I can, I swear by zone focusing, too.

So what, specifically, is zone focusing? How does it work? And how can you learn to do it for sharp photos?

All will be revealed in this article! Let’s get started.

zone focused composition of boy in a crowd
Canon 5D Mark II | 17mm | f/11 | 1/320s | ISO 1800

What is zone focusing?

Zone focusing is a technique where you manually prefocus your lens to a certain distance and adjust your aperture for a deep depth of field. Then, when you’re confronted by an interesting subject, you don’t need to focus through your viewfinder; instead, you wait for your subject to enter your acceptable zone of focus and capture the photo.

Note that zone focusing is very flexible. If you like to shoot intimate portraits, you can zone focus just a few feet in front of your lens. And if you prefer wider shots with more distant elements, you can zone focus 10+ feet away.

Why is zone focusing so useful?

Zone focusing works to varying degrees in plenty of photography genres, but it’s most commonly used by street photographers for two major reasons:

  1. When shooting on the streets, the world happens fast. Gorgeous photo opportunities slide by in the blink of an eye. If you take the time to focus, you’ll often miss the shot.
  2. In street photography, putting a camera to your eye often makes your subject (and you) uncomfortable. So if you can focus without looking, you’ll be able to keep discomfort to a minimum while capturing more honest scenes.

In other words, if you’re a street photographer, zone focusing is an easy way to increase your keeper rate while keeping your photos perfectly candid.

Zone focusing and depth of field (dof)

woman walking along outside the subway
Canon 5D Mark II | 28mm | f/4 | 1/250s | ISO 3200

Before I explain how to zone focus, it’s important that you understand the factors that go into creating a zone of sharp focus, also known as a deep depth of field.

As you may already be aware, depth of field refers to the zone of acceptable sharpness in a scene. So when you focus on a subject and you create a deep depth of field (more on how to do that in a moment!), your subject will turn out sharp – but so will a certain area in front of and behind your subject.

For instance, if you focus on a subject that’s 10 feet away, a deep depth of field would ensure sharp focus from around 8 feet to 14 feet, depending on your specific camera settings. Keep in mind that the area behind your subject that is acceptably sharp will always be greater than the area in front of your subject, and in many cases, it will be much greater.

What affects your depth of field? Three simple factors:

  1. Aperture. The smaller your aperture, the greater the depth of field. So if you’re shooting at f/16, you’ll have far more in focus than if you shoot at f/2.8.
  2. Focal length. Wider focal lengths create a deeper depth of field. So if you are shooting at 28mm, much more of your scene will be in focus than if you are shooting at 100mm. (This is why I rarely zone focus with lenses longer than 35mm.)
  3. Distance to the subject (or point of focus). The further away you focus, the more depth of field there will be in a scene. So if you focus on a person 10 feet away, then you’ll have a deeper depth of field than if you focus on a person 3 feet away.

If you want to test out these different factors and see how they affect the depth of field in real life, check out this website, which offers a handy depth of field calculator.

How to zone focus: step by step

man walking with hat and suitcase zone focused
Canon 5D Mark II | 17mm | f/8 | 1/400s | ISO 1600

You can zone focus in three simple steps:

  1. Adjust your camera settings for a deep depth of field
  2. Prefocus your lens in the right area
  3. Hit the shutter button when your subject moves into range

Let’s take a look at each step in greater depth:

Step 1: Adjust your camera settings for a deep depth of field

When zone focusing, you want the range of sharpness (i.e., the depth of field) as large as possible. That way, you have the most room for error, and you’ll end up with the most keepers. Plus, a deep depth of field will allow you to keep multiple subjects sharp, which is useful if you’re capturing a more complex, layered shot.

First, you’ll need to choose a wide-angle lens, such as 24mm, 28mm, or 35mm. My personal go-to focal length is 28mm, but any of these options work for zone focusing. Unfortunately, if you zoom any closer (50mm, for example), you’ll struggle to get a usable depth of field range.

Next, make sure your camera is set to Manual mode, and dial in a narrow aperture. I’d recommend working at f/8 and beyond – so depending on the light levels, you might use f/8, f/11, f/13, or even f/16.

Because zone focusing is often done with moving subjects (and you might be moving, too!), make sure your shutter is at least 1/250s, though higher is better, if you can afford it. And adjust your ISO to keep your exposure sufficiently bright.

Really, it’s the combination of the wide focal length and narrow aperture that’ll give you the deep depth of field you need, but it’s important not to neglect your other settings.

Step 2: Prefocus your lens in the right area

Now that you have your camera settings dialed in, it’s time to determine where you want to focus your lens.

Part of this should be personal preference and may depend on the context. For instance, if you prefer more intimate street portraits, you’ll want to focus a few feet in front of you. Or if you’re shooting in an environment where people are passing at a distance, you’ll want to focus farther away.

But it’s not just about artistry. Recalling the discussion of depth of field, you know that a closer point of focus decreases the range of acceptable sharpness. So if you want to maximize the chances of a sharp shot, it’s a good idea to focus far off in the distance.

Regardless of where you plan to focus, a lens with a manual focus display is a huge benefit here. I’m talking about something like this:

manual focus display on a 24-105mm lens

That way, you know exactly where your lens is focused (and you can consistently prefocus in the same spot).

If your lens doesn’t include a manual focus display, that’s okay, but you’ll need to spend extra time learning to estimate distances.

Step 3: Hit the shutter button when your subject moves into range

You’ve got the right settings, and you’re prefocused in the right spot.

Which means that all you need to do is take the photo.

Keep an eye out for interesting photo opportunities. Estimate your range of focus.

Then, when something interesting happens, wait until the subject comes into your focusing zone, then take a photo. The closer your subject gets to the center of your range of focus, the better (and don’t be afraid to capture multiple photos to maximize your chances of nailing a sharp shot).

A zone focusing tip: learn to guess distances

Zone focusing works really well, and if you’re shooting in bright light with a narrow aperture, you’ll have a lot of leeway.

But if you’re like me, then you often do street photography in less than ideal lighting, such as on the subway. And thanks to the poor light, you’ll need to widen your aperture – to f/2.8 and beyond.

What does this mean? Well, even with a wide-angle lens and a relatively distant subject, you’ll need to be very careful; your range of sharpness will be quite small.

man standing by the subway tracks
Fujifilm X100 | 35mm | f/2 | 1/250s | ISO 3200

For this reason, you must learn to estimate the distances away from your camera’s lens, all the way up to around 12 feet. I suggest using a tape measure and measuring out the distances. Then just go out and practice.

Find different objects and try to guess their distance. Then, before you head out to shoot, pick an object at a known distance, focus on it, and use it as a sort of “calibrator” for all your future photos.

The other reason to get good at guessing distances? People move and scenes develop. You might want to capture a person walking toward you at 10 feet, then again at 5 feet. To nail both those shots, you’ll need to have one hand on the focusing ring, and practice manually focusing back and forth, from 10 feet to 8 feet to 6 feet and so on.

Eventually, you’ll be able to capture someone walking toward you at both 10 feet and 6 feet, without even having to look through the viewfinder. It’s an incredibly effective technique, and you can use it for some gorgeous results.

couple walking together zone focused
Canon 5D Mark II | 28mm | f/5 | ISO 1600

How to zone focus: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you should be a capable zone focuser – though I certainly recommend you spend some time really getting to know different distances (and how to accurately prefocus at those distances, too).

So head out with your camera. Have some fun with zone focusing. You’ll love the results!

Now over to you:

Have you tried zone focusing? What do you think? Do you like it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Street Photography

  • GENERAL
    • 10 Tips for the Aspiring Street Photographer
    • 7 Street Photography Rules That Should Be Broken
    • How to Approach Street Photography in 12 Easy Steps
    • 50 Things I Try to Avoid in Street Photography
    • 5 Questions to Ask Yourself to Help Improve Your People Photography
    • 5 Exercises to Improve Your Street Photography
  • PREPARATION
    • 7 Steps to Get Over Your Fear of Street Photography
    • How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling
  • SETTINGS
    • Zone Focusing: How to (Always) Capture Sharp Street Photos

    • What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why
  • LIGHTING
    • There is No Bad Light for Street Photography
    • Make the Most of High Contrast Lighting for Dramatic Street Photos
  • COMPOSITION
    • The Importance of Capturing Gesture and Emotion in Street Photography
    • Seeing and Street Photography
      • 13 Great Subjects for Urban Night Photography
    • How to Avoid Distracting Backgrounds in Street Photography
    • How the Square Format Can Enhance Your Street Photography
    • Tips for Minimalist Photography in an Urban Environment
    • How to Improve the Impact of Your Urban Images Using Lines
    • How to Use Framing in an Urban Environment
  • GEAR
    • 5 Reasons Why Shooting With a Rangefinder Will Make You a Better Street Photographer
    • Pros and Cons of a Telephoto Lens for Street Photography?
    • The Five Key Features on any Street Photography Camera
    • Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?
    • 6 Reasons Why You Should Use a Standard Lens for Street Photography
    • A Look at the Fujifilm X100V in Action for Street Photography (video)
    • How to Use a Wide-Angle Lens for People Photography
    • Street Photography with $ 10 Ilford HP5 Film Camera
  • ADVANCED GUIDES
    • 8 Advanced Street Photography Tips to Get You to the Next Level
    • Getting Close and Personal: 11 Tips for Close-up Candid Street Photography
    • 7 Tips for a More Anonymous Approach to Street Photography
    • A Cowards Guide to Street Photography
    • 6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography
    • 9 Tips for Creating Great Street Portraits
    • Street Portraits vs Street Photography: What is the Difference?
    • 17 Tips for Shooting Better Urban Portraits
    • What Makes A Great Street Photograph and How Do We Create Them
    • How to Tell a Story With Your Street Photography
    • In the Dark: 10 Tips for Street Night Photography
    • 7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
    • A Street Photographer’s Guide to New York City
    • Urban Exploration Photography – Urbex
    • 7 Tips for Capturing the Decisive Moment in Street Photography
    • A Common Misconception About Street Photography – Just Take Photos of People Walking
    • What do I look for on a Photo Walk? Part 1 – City Walk
    • 8 Things You Should Know if You are Dating a Street Photographer
    • 7 Ways to Become More Spontaneous with Your Street Photography
    • 5 Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography
    • Using Humor In Street Photography
    • Watch a Street Photographer Going about a Shoot [VIDEO]
    • Using Street Photography to See Beyond the Ordinary
  • CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
    • 5 Tips for Shooting Glass to Enhance Your Street Photographs
    • Window Street Photography ~ Try Something New And Grow!
    • The Pros and Cons of Black and White Versus Color for Street and Travel Photography
    • 4 Ways to Add a Sense of Motion to Your Urban Photography
    • 7 Steps to Create Street Photography Silhouettes
  • POST-PROCESSING
    • How to Enhance Urban Night Photographs Using Luminosity Masks in Photoshop
    • 13 Steps for Editing Street Photography in Lightroom from Start to Finish
    • How to Turn Day to Night Using Photoshop for Urban Landscapes
  • BUSINESS
    • Model Releases: Working with People on the Streets
  • INSPIRATION
    • 20 Beautiful Examples of Urban Decay Photography
    • 30 Street Photography Images to Inspire You
    • 33 Gritty Photos of Graffiti Street Art
    • 28 Diverse Images That Showcase People Photography
    • 39 Street Photography Images That Have Common Threads
    • Focus on Thomas Leuthard – Street Photographer
    • Focus on Street Photographer Eric Kim ~ In your face with a smile!
    • Focus on Chris Porsz ~ It’s All About The People
    • Focus on Scott Frederick – Urban Explorer
  • OPINION
    • The Uncomfortable Truth About Street Photography
    • Street Photography: Exploitative vs Respect
    • To be or not to be a Street Photographer
    • Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

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The post Zone Focusing: How to (Always) Capture Sharp Street Photos appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.


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CP+ 2019: Sigma interview – ‘Optical design is always a battle with the design constraints’

07 Apr
Sigma CEO Kazuto Yamaki, pictured at the CP+ show in Yokohama, Japan.

Last month at the CP+ show in Yokohama we spoke to executives from several major manufacturers, including Sigma. In our conversation with CEO Kazuto Yamaki we discussed his plans for future L-mount lenses (and cameras) and some of the challenges of supporting multiple mounts.


It’s been six months since the L-mount alliance was announced. How’s it going?

At CP+ our main theme is to show our commitment to the L-mount system. We didn’t bring [out] any totally, brand-new products at CP+ but we showed our commitment to L-mount system by showing our new mount adapter and prime lenses for the system.

The response is better than I thought, initially. Not only from retailers and distributors, but also users who have showed very strong interest in L-mount system. Potential customers are very positive, which is more than I expected: it’s a nice surprise.

You expected it to be harder to convince people?

Yes, because it’s a relatively new system. It’s not a brand-new system, because Leica already had their own system, but as an alliance, this is only the beginning. Panasonic just announced a few products, so compared to the existing systems, particularly compared to Sony system, it’s not [comprehensive]. I was pretty surprised customers showed interest in our system.

The Sigma 35mm F1.4 Art for L-mount is a new lens, but the optical design was laid down at the launch of the Global Vision lens series, in 2012.

Do you have plans to design native L-mount lenses?

We will probably release a few lenses this year, designed for the short flange-back distance.

What are the most important lenses the L system will need in order to be a success?

First of all we need to have more and more lenses. Variety is key. Regardless of whether it’s standard zoom lens, telephoto lens or primes, we need to have more lenses because professional photographers and enthusiasts want to try many lenses. [They don’t] have to be standard or unique, the first priority is to have more. That’s why we announced eleven lenses at CP+, all of which will be available this year.

It might also be a good idea to have unique lenses that only L-mount users can enjoy: we’ll need to think about this.

L-mount lenses from Panasonic and Leica are all fairly expensive, compared to typical Sigma pricing – should we expect your L-mount lenses to be more affordable?

We believe our mission is to provide high quality products with affordable prices. Although I have said we can’t be the cheapest product supplier, we do our best to provide the highest quality product with an affordable price.

Actually the production cost is very high but we minimize the organization, we maintain a very lean organization: we have very few employees in marketing, sales, administration or HR so we can provide products at an affordable price. Our goal isn’t to increase the price more than necessary.

DFD information part of the L-mount standard: will you be writing this information into your L-mount lenses?

I just can’t comment. It’s great technology but I’m not sure we can implement it in our camera because it requires a lot of processing power. We respect the technology but we cannot comment [on] whether we’ll implement in our cameras.

Ahead of the development of brand new lenses designed from the ground up for mirrorless, Sigma has created two MC-21 adapters to convert its Sigma SA and Canon EF lenses to the L-mount.

What about your lenses?

Yes, that’s why Panasonic, Sigma and Leica engineers [are working] together to enhance the L-mount system. We keep upgrading the L-mount system for much more communication between the lens and body to support technologies like DFD.

Sigma arguably started the trend of big, heavy, very sharp primes but now everybody is doing it. Can Sigma create a new segment?

I must admit our position in the industry: people [regard us as] a third-party or accessory provider. Many customers may wish to choose their original manufacturers’ lenses. So, as a lens manufacturer, differentiation is important for us. We always try to bring a unique lens that the body manufacturer doesn’t have.

A long time ago we produced similar lenses with much, much cheaper prices. But today we produce everything in Japan, including parts, so we can’t be the cheapest product supplier. The only way to survive in the industry is to produce unique products. I think big, heavy but super performance was one of the strategies to differentiate ourselves. But today many companies have similar products so perhaps we need to find another [strategy].

The Art series is our heart and we have many users all over the world, so we’ll maintain this lineup

Of course the Art series is our heart and we have many users all over the world, so we’ll maintain this lineup. In order to differentiate ourselves we’ll need to create new ideas for lenses and we’re currently working on it.

I can’t tell you [more] now. Maybe after several glasses of sake!

Is there room in the range for smaller, maybe F2 primes?

The advantage of mirrorless cameras is the small factor. I’m aware some users want very lightweight, small camera bodies and small lenses. They might want to use the big, heavy lenses for some occasions, but for casual shooting, like street photography, they might wish for smaller lenses. I can’t comment but maybe in the future we may be able to deliver such products.

With so many new camera systems on the market now, how do you prioritize which mounts you develop lenses for?

I have a great interest in the Canon R and Nikon Z systems because eventually they will have more and more customers. So we are now investigating these systems. But still it’s too early to make a statement about how we will respond.

Right now we see many new Canon R and Nikon Z users using mount adapters with their existing lenses. So we’re concentrating on optimizing the compatibility of our lenses with their mount adapters and cameras.

We’ve already made sure that our lenses work almost perfectly, without any problem, but we’re looking in detail: maybe there are some minor issues with this specific setting, or with that specific procedure, and so on, so you may still see some minor issues. Our software engineers are now de-bugging those kind of things. But, at the same time, we are looking into how to support the new systems.

Nikon’s wide, shallow mount provides some advantages for optical engineers, but according to Mr Yamaki it’s easier for a third-party manufacturer to design solutions for narrower standards first, and adapt them outwards.

How difficult is it to create one lens design which has to work for several different mirrorless mounts, with their different dimensions?

We have the same challenge in the case of DSLR. The Canon EF mount has larger diameter than Nikon F mount [for example]. We sometimes thought if we only made lenses for Canon EF mount it could be easier but we always overcame such challenges. So we have the experience.

Flange-back distance should not make much difference but [mount] diameter may make some difference. This is a challenge we need to overcome.

It’s true if you need to make a very fast, very high optical performance lens, the Nikon Z mount is very nice. Personally [I believe the short flange-back distance places the rear optical group] a bit too close to the sensor, I’m a bit concerned about reflection problems: it may create some strange ghosting. But its shorter flange-back and bigger diameter gives more options to an optical designer, in theory.

Are the mounts similar enough that you can use one optical design?

If we are to make lenses that are usable for all mounts, we’ll probably optimize to the longest mount. Such a lens could still be used for Nikon Z mount [which has the shortest flange-back distance]. If we optimize to the Nikon system, we can’t use that [lens design] on a [a mount with a longer flange-back].

There is some difference between the mounts but it doesn’t make a huge difference in designing the lens. Of course there are some challenges, maybe if we make exactly the same spec (same aperture and optical performance), a Nikon [Z mount lens] may be 2-3mm shorter but I don’t think it makes a huge difference.

Technically the larger mount diameter give more options to the optical designer

But the mount diameter does make some [amount] of difference when you’re designing. Optical design is always a battle with the design constraints: if the mount diameter is very wide, our optical engineers can use very big diameter lenses in the rear lens group, which makes the design easier. Technically the large diameter give more options to the optical designer but it doesn’t mean we can always design high optical performance lenses. That’s our technique: our technology tries to overcome such limits to provide the best performing lens.

Sigma has been making lenses for radically different mounts for decades, including some weird and wonderful products like this XQ 24mm F2.8 Filtermatic, with built-in filters for black and white film.

Via Wikimedia Commons, credit: Maksim Sidorov

Even in the film era, Sigma supported very different mounts – has anything really changed?

When designing a lens, we try to minimize aberrations, make [the lens] as sharp as possible and try to create nice bokeh in the background: such basics are the same. Mirrorless systems have pros and cons. The pros are that we can make wide-angle lenses much more easily than for DSLRs, just because of the short flange-back distance. But the challenge is the focusing system: if we need to support contrast detection AF or autofocus during movie capture [for example], it’s challenging.

It’s harder to support CDAF?

Yes, if we are to achieve the best optical quality. From an optical point of view it would be ideal to move the whole lens forwards or back to focus. When we had manual focus there were some designs where we moved the whole lenses to focus. But when we started building autofocus lenses we needed to make the focusing lens lighter and smaller so that the motor can support the focusing lens. But the basic physics is the same: the bigger and heavier the focusing lens, the easier it is to maintain optical performance in a shorter focusing distance.

We publish MTF charts but this is the performance at infinity. We optimize at infinity, but naturally the performance degrades at closer distances. If we use a smaller diameter, lighter focusing lens, it tends to degrade more at closer focus distances. That’s the challenge.

There is no ideal world for optical design

In order to support contrast AF we need to implement ‘wobbling’: we need to move the focusing lens back and forth to detect the subject. In order to do that, we need to make the focus lens very light and small and this tends to degrade the performance in the short focal distance.

That’s not always the case, though. Canon doesn’t use that system: they use dual pixel and it works like phase detection, but other manufacturers use pure contrast AF or hybrid AF so the lens has to support that kind of AF operation. Nikon is hybrid, Sony is hybrid. We will probably [implement a hybrid AF system too]. There is no ideal world for optical design, the engineer always has to fight against such limitations.

Does a lens design optimized for CDAF give better performance on cameras that use PDAF?

In terms of speed, yes. If we talk only in terms of focus performance and accuracy then yes, it’s better but the downside is optical performance, in theory. We have many other technologies to maintain optical performance and other companies try to solve the problem with such technologies but in theory it’s challenging.

Sigma’s 50mm f1.4 Art is not a new product, but its lovely rendering of out of focus areas and relative lack of longitudinal CA make it a beautiful lens for portraiture, even now.

When designing lenses, how do you balance things like sharpness with less quantifiable qualities like bokeh?

I think the [main goal] is to make the best possible optical performance for almost all lenses. So we like to minimize the aberrations, the coma, to provide the best quality from the center to edge.

You mention the ‘beauty’ of the image and that’s quite subjective, so it’s not easy to understand the real demand from users. But we [at Sigma] are also photographers, so we do understand these needs. So we may try such a target with some specific lens, so that we [can gauge] response from the customers.

We don’t have a specific plan, but we could have such a product in the future.

Today [our] design software can simulate bokeh: we always check whether the bokeh is ok or not, it’s very important. It’s a subjective matter but still we know what is good bokeh and bad bokeh so we always pay attention to that.

Is the existence of so many new lens mounts a challenge or an opportunity for Sigma?

It’s both. The more mounts, [the] more opportunity: the most active companies will survive in this very chaotic market. But we need to work very hard.

I personally regard this as an opportunity. If we stay only on the very conventional, old systems, we cannot stimulate the market. But on the other hand, this is a very, very big challenge for manufacturing, for our factory. Especially because we make everything ourselves, we make most of the parts and components. So if we make a much wider lineup, it [could] easily confuse our production system.

If we relied on many suppliers we could respond to demand by just changing the size of our order

If we relied on many, many suppliers we could respond to demand by just changing the size of our order, and buy from a different supplier: it’s easy to control. But we make everything by ourselves: we need to change a setting on the machine for each part, so every, let’s say, hour we change, it deteriorates our productivity and efficiency, and we very easily lose the profit margin from manufacturing. This is very challenging.

Will you need to change the way Sigma is organized?

Yes: I’ve been explaining this challenge to my staff for more than a year. The toughest time for [manufacturing] will come in maybe 2019, 2020, 2021 because we will maintain our current lineup for DSLR while also expanding to include more mirrorless [lenses]. So our product line will increase by 50%, maybe as much as twice. This will be very, very challenging for manufacturers like us.

Mr Yamaki, pictured here in Sigma’s factory in Aizu, Japan. Read more about the facility in our detailed tour, here [2015].

Will you need more factory space?

We do have plans to expand the factory. We will start construction of a new building in the same location for an assembly line to build the very modern, high performance lenses. We are putting more and more technology into the assembly line: checking performance and adjusting the lenses.

The assembly line is getting longer and longer so we need more space. We will start construction on two new buildings near the same location. But we’re doing this just to keep the pace with the modern technology, not to expand the production [volume].

Are you planning to create lenses for Fujifilm’s X-mount?

I have [had] many questions about it. I know that some [Fujifilm] customers are wishing for us to make lenses for them. It’s always a matter of priority. We know there are many good customers of the Fuji system and they’re perfectly matched with our ideal customer but [Fujifilm doesn’t] really disclose the protocol between the lens and camera, so we need to do the reverse engineering by ourselves.

It’s a really time-consuming process so we need to prioritize support for Sony E mount, our L-mount system, existing DSLR mounts and Micro Four Thirds.

So you’re balancing the cost of reverse engineering against the potential market size?

Yes, that’s true.

In other words, because you know that Nikon and Canon mounts will be popular, the cost of reverse-engineering can be justified?

Yes.

Sigma is working its next generation of cameras, which unlike the SD-series of old, will be built around the mirrorless L-mount and will feature full-frame Foveon sensors.

What is Sigma’s future as a camera manufacturer?

I have explained that our mission is to create unique lenses, a unique product for the customer and eventually I hope the customers have more choices. They can choose ordinary products from camera manufacturers and unique product from lens manufacturers [like us].

Our future camera business will be even more extreme: I’d like to deliver even more unique cameras that the big players may not deliver to market. We like to be a unique camera manufacturer in the future.

Unique in what way?

Right now I can’t say: you will see at some point in the future.

Are you hoping to make the type of camera that some people might want but that companies the size of Canon and Sony wouldn’t target?

When we launched the first DP it was the first compact camera to feature a large sensor. We [were consequently in] a very unique position but it’s not unique anymore, so we will pursue another solution to make us unique.

What potential benefits should a customer expect to see from a full-frame Foveon sensor?

The basic technology is the same, there is no complete silicon change. People can expect better image quality simply because of the sensor size: APS-C and Full Frame are quite different, so people can expect better performance.

I gave a presentation [to a Japanese audience at CP+] and we announced the basic spec of the [full-frame] sensor [currently being developed]. It’s 20 megapixels times three, so about 60MP. They’re not tiny pixels: they’re relatively big pixels so each pixel can capture enough light. And we’ve gone back to the original pixel structure: 1:1:1, so people can expect very nice, rich data from the sensor.

I hope they like it, but the Japanese audience [at the presentation] has a poker face: they don’t show their feelings on their faces, so I didn’t see a clear response, but I hope they’ll like it [laughs].

What improvements are you mainly targeting?

We tried to improve all aspects [readout speed, color separation, noise performance]. With this sensor we tried to improve the high ISO performance but color separation is the same: we maintained the same characteristics as before. It’s challenging: if we keep the same characteristics it’s challenging for the high ISO performance but it means we can reproduce better color gradation between blue, green and red.

Color specta derived from Raw images, with Foveon (top) showing much smoother red-to-green transitions and greater ability to capture violet tones that exist beyond the blue filter that the three Bayer cameras can capture.

This image [demonstrated by Mr Yamaki in the interview and reproduced above – the upper strip is from a Foveon sensor, the lower three are from three different Bayer-pattern sensors] is taken by a Foveon sensor. Foveon can capture greater graduation between each color. This is from a Raw file but if the Raw data has the correct response to each wavelength then we can render all these colors in processing.

One of the projects we have at the moment is to recreate this nice color graduation in the final image. You can’t create this graduation from nothing so while we retain the same color separation, we’re trying to improve the processing.

What’s the response been like to adding DNG capability?

When we announced DNG output, [our customers] were very excited but after they tried it they were a bit disappointed by the quality because the pre-processing was a little bit different. So most of the customers that I know prefer SPP, despite the [penalty in] processing speed.

Are you working on enhancing the DNG performance?

We’re always trying to improve the processing in the camera. Our Sigma Photo Pro software can do some pre-processing that DNG cannot, so we need to do that pre-processing in the camera and write it into the DNG file. The power of the in-camera processing is limited: when it comes to PCs, the processing power available is much [greater]. But we always try to improve the pre-processing in the camera.

What are the other products in the market you’ve been impressed by?

So far I like Canon, the 28-70mm F2 and the 50 mm F1.2. Their [RF] mount system is quite impressive.

But it’s noticeable that they both use slower, ring-type focus motors -presumably Canon has had to make that same image quality / speed decision…

This is the same challenge for all manufacturers.


Editor’s note: Barnaby Britton

The last time we spoke to Mr Yamaki was late 2018, at Photokina, where he had just announced the L-mount alliance with Panasonic and Leica. In the intervening six months it sounds like his team of engineers has been pretty busy developing a ‘unique’ Foveon-equipped full-frame L-mount camera, as well as ensuring a wide range of native L-mount lenses by the time it is launched (which we expect to happen later this year).

Of course the 11 L-mount lenses that Sigma has launched so far this year are only ‘new’ in the sense that they’re newly machined for L-mount: optically these are the same designs that we’ve seen before, going back to the launch of the Global Vision range in 2012. This fits with Mr Yamaki’s initial L-mount strategy of ‘more and more lenses’, with perhaps some unique optics coming a little later.

Reassuringly, despite the eye-watering cost of most L-mount lenses currently on the market from Panasonic and Leica, Mr Yamaki seems set on his long-standing strategy of quality at ‘an affordable price’. One of the ways of keeping prices down, of course, is to standardize optical designs across lenses made for different mounts. This is not a new challenge for Sigma – Canon EF and Nikon F mounts are radically different, for example, and the company has been offering versions of the same lenses for both, for more than 30 years.

When faced with the challenge of standardizing optical designs, it makes more sense to design for the most limiting mount first, and work outwards

In this interview Mr Yamaki confirmed a couple of things that we’ve long suspected: firstly that, in theory, systems with a wide mount and short flange-back give the optical designer more options, especially when it comes to creating certain kinds of lenses. And secondly, when faced with the challenge of standardizing optical designs for radically different lens-mounts, it makes more sense to design for the most limiting mount first, and work outwards from there. As Mr Yamaki says, ‘if we optimize to the Nikon system, we can’t use that [lens design] on a [a mount with a longer flange-back]’. But if he starts by looking at – say – creating a lens for Sony E-mount, adapting it to a wider mount should be relatively straightforward from an engineering perspective.

Of course, for that to happen, Sigma must first reverse-engineer the Z-mount. Nikon – like Canon, and Fujifilm – does not disclose details of its mount standard to third-parties. According to Mr Yamaki, the cost of the R&D required is easy to justify for major mounts, where sales are guaranteed. The flip-side, of course, is that for systems with a relatively small market share, and / or a large range of attractive native options already in existence – like Fujifilm X – it’s a trickier proposition.

Another complicating factor is the mixture of different autofocus technologies currently used by camera manufacturers. Some use pure contrast-detection, some on-sensor phase-detection, and some a combination of both. Mr Yamaki’s description of the optical and functional limitations imposed by the need for CDAF support is fascinating, and rather than unpack it again here, I refer you to his concise explanation, above.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Why You Should Always Have a Client Pre-Consultation

14 Jan

The post Why You Should Always Have a Client Pre-Consultation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

Mimi Thian

Any time you have a client paying you for a certain type of photography, it is essential to get all of the details laid out before any real planning or photography happens. Getting all of this squared away beforehand can make the whole process go quicker. Everyone stays satisfied, and all involved know what to expect for the final result.

What is a client pre-consultation?

A client pre-consultation is where you and your client meet to talk about the details of the session or project. You can meet at your studio, a coffee shop, or the client’s home or place of business.

Whether it’s a portrait client, a model, a commercial project, or a personal project that involves more people, a pre-consultation is important because you’re able to settle lots of questions and details that will make the session go smoothly.

A client pre-consultation can also take place via a video conference service like Skype or Facetime. The point is to get in front of your client and talk about your project or session.

Choose a location or method where you can give your undivided attention to your client. Having distractions or being in a place that isn’t suitable for a meeting can often keep you from staying focused on the details.

For example, a coffee shop may seem like the best choice, however, choose a spot within the place that is secluded and quiet. Choosing a very popular or loud location can make it difficult to talk or hear each other.

Be prepared for each type of pre-consultation

Even though you need a pre-consultation for all photography sessions or projects, preparing yourself for each with the right questions and information can help you to have a more focused pre-consultation.

Wedding pre-consultation

Even though the process of weddings tends to be the same, each wedding is unique. That is why pre-consultations are really important, especially if the pre-consultation happens before the couple books you for the event.

Meeting with the couple before the wedding can help them to determine the days’ timeline in terms of photography.

Prepare your contract with a cover sheet that you can fill in with all the important details. For example, names of the couple, date of the event, details of the ceremony and reception location, number of bridesmaids, start times for important events, and any other notes that relate to the event.

Have another sheet or notebook prepared for essential notes during the meeting. As much as we’d love to have photographic memories, the truth is, when we meet people for the first time, we can get lost in conversations and forget small but imperative details. So a meetings sheet can help you write down anything you think is important without having to write it on the contract.

Write down anything. From the color scheme, types of flowers they are having, first dance song, how they met, through to the more important details like the photography style they like and if they want a second photographer.

All of these details are equally important to the bride and groom, and so they should be important to you as well. For example, it can help you on the day of the event to remember that the flowers they chose are in remembrance of a passed grandmother.

Leave time for the couple to ask you any questions that they may have. It doesn’t matter if their questions or concerns are a bit unrealistic. Settling any doubt in a friendly way can mean the difference between them choosing you or another potential photographer they may be meeting.

Also be prepared to showcase your work with your clients at the time of the meeting. Take a portfolio, albums, prints, a laptop with your website and galleries open. Sometimes, clients contact photographers by referral without really checking out their work. So, this meeting is a great way to have them fall in love with your work. Taking albums can also open the door to upsell and add products to the wedding coverage.

These are items you should bring with you to every pre-wedding consultation:

  • Portfolio, laptop, slideshow to show your clients
  • Albums and products you wish to upsell your clients
  • Contract and info sheet
  • Meetings sheet or notebook to write down extra information about the wedding
  • Copy of your collections pricing as well as a product price sheet
  • The contract for clients to view terms and conditions

Remember that you are the professional and the couple is coming to you not only to meet you but to get as much information about photography, the wedding process, and any additional advice that could benefit them. Your expertise will always be appreciated, and your friendly attitude can get the wedding on your calendar.

Portrait sessions of any kind

For portrait sessions, you may think that a pre-consultation is a bit much. However, once you do have a pre-consultation you will be happy you did. Each portrait session, be it a family session, senior session, or individual are all unique and important.

Here a face-to-face meeting may not be as necessary and can sometimes be done through email or messages. However, it might become a long drawn out process if you do it that way. If possible, have a face-to-face meeting with your client – whether physically face-to-face or via a video conference service.

Things to go over during the meeting:

  • Location and ideal time for the session
  • Wardrobe ideas and what would fit the concept of the session
  • How many people are attending the session
  • If children are present, their ages so you can prepare ahead of time
  • The style of photography they like, candid, posed, a mixture

During the client pre-consultation, it’s also important to have a portrait contract and a list of prices for your packages. That way, you can go over the pricing and what each package includes from the start.

Doing this gives your client the opportunity to ask any questions regarding the session beforehand avoiding any miscommunication or misunderstandings after the session has been completed.

Commercial or editorial projects

Commercial/editorial projects usually require quick execution and only allow a limited amount of time for you to photograph the concept. Depending on what your client is hoping to have as a result, you may have to have more than one pre-consultation especially if it is a new client.

Meeting with the whole team can also help the project go off with fewer setbacks. Everyone will be on the same page as far as concept, lighting, location, and all of the essential details of the project.

A pre-consultation is also a great time to go over the payment details of the project. The pricing and payment schedule is vastly different from portraits or weddings. Here, the circulation count should get discussed. Circulation covers how often the client runs your photographs in their marketing, advertising, or promotional material.

Also, discuss copyright and licensing during the meeting. You may want to be able to showcase the photographs in your portfolio, or sometimes, the client wants exclusive rights. Go over model releases and contracts during this time as well.

For these types of projects, the more questions you ask to get a clearly defined idea of the project can help you to get a better estimate for your work. The more information you get, the better.

In Conclusion

Pre-consultations are very important in all types of photography projects where you are dealing with a client who is paying you for your services. These meetings help you get a clear idea of what your client is looking for and what they are expecting to receive as their final product.

It can eliminate any doubts, answer questions, and help your client with your advice and expertise so that the project happens without any setbacks.

The post Why You Should Always Have a Client Pre-Consultation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.


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Advantages DSLRs Have Over Smartphones, and Why They’ll Always Have Them

22 Nov

I love watching the annual press events of Apple, Google, Samsung and others where they show off their latest high-tech gadgets, including mobile phones. With each new iPhone, Pixel, and Galaxy they seem to repeat a common refrain: “And the camera is the best one ever in a smartphone”.

Are DSLRs fading away with modern advances in smartphone camera technology? Or are they primed and ready for an entirely new life?

Mobile phone cameras are mind-blowing marvels of modern technology. With some of the tech showcased in the recent Pixel 3 announcement, you might be wondering if traditional DSLRs and mirrorless cameras are even relevant anymore.

The answer is more complicated than you might think.

Before you get too deep into this post, I want to make one thing abundantly clear. No-one can tell you which camera is best for you. If you have a 3-megapixel point-and-shoot that does what you want, then, by all means, keep using it and don’t let anyone stop you. Also, if your smartphone takes selfies and Instagram-worthy photos of your morning coffee, then keep snapping away.

In this article, I’ll be looking at some advantages traditional cameras have over smartphones. However, I won’t be telling you which one to buy, and I certainly won’t be telling you to stop using the camera you already have. Too often, the point is missed entirely when people get caught up in silly arguments on internet forums and message boards about whether such-and-such camera is better.

It’s important to know the advantages and disadvantages of different cameras, so you have enough information to choose one that best suits you and your needs. However, please don’t think I’m trying to tell you what you should or shouldn’t buy.

In almost every way I can think of, modern smartphones can take incredible images compared to those from just a few years ago. These days they have real-time HDR, depth mapping, background separation, multiple lenses, machine learning, portrait mode, selective bokeh adjustment, and even computer-assisted sub-pixel digital zooming. It’s enough to make even the most staunch DSLR owner feel a tad envious.

Still, don’t toss out your Canon or Pentax just yet. DSLRs and other traditional cameras have a treasure trove of advantages no current smartphone can match, and some features they may never be able to achieve.

Lens Selection

What’s the essential advantage of DSLRs over smartphones? I couldn’t tell you, but lens selection would undoubtedly be near the top of the list. Despite all the advances in smartphone photography in recent years, some laws of physics and photons are only overcome when switching lenses like a traditional camera. Most mobile phones have lenses roughly equivalent to a 28mm lens on a full-frame DSLR, although some dual-camera models roughly mimic a 50mm field of view to try and recreate professional-style portraits. Even though you can get adapters (such as the Olloclip) that let you do some creative experimentation, they rarely hold up to dedicated lenses mounted on interchangeable-lens cameras.

By comparison, DLSRs can use hundreds of different lenses, each designed for specific photography needs and situations. No matter what you need from a DSLR, there’s a lens that does it – from wide-angle primes and telephoto zooms to basic kit lenses, tilt-shift, and specialized macro lenses.

A photo like this, which requires a telephoto lens with a wide aperture, isn’t currently possible on any smartphone (and may never be).

The AI-powered tricks and computational somersaults modern cell phones are capable of can work wonders for different photographic situations. But when it comes to choosing the perfect lens for the job, smartphones simply can’t compete. If you want to shoot close-up images, far-away wildlife, fast-moving sports or pleasing group portraits, your mobile phone will probably come up short. Sure, you can’t install apps on most DSLRs. But you can change out lenses which, when it comes to photography, is infinitely more useful.

The portrait mode on mobile phones is amazing. But it doesn’t come close to what you can achieve with a portrait lens on a DSLR or mirrorless camera.

Customizable Settings

While phones can produce amazing photographs in lots of different conditions, you’re fairly limited in terms of settings. You usually can’t change the aperture or focal length (and no, digital cropping is not the same as changing focal lengths). All you can really control are the ISO and shutter speed, and the native camera apps rarely even let you do that much.

When you press the button to take a picture on your phone, you’re letting the computer do most of the thinking it terms of white balance, shutter speed, ISO, and even which part of the image should be properly exposed.

One of the biggest selling points of DSLRs and other dedicated cameras is that (while they have auto modes that do much of the heavy lifting) they have manual modes that let you choose everything – aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and even the focal length if you’re using a zoom lens. Admittedly, not everyone wants that much control, and you can choose to shoot in auto or semi-auto if you want. But having such fine-grain control is a huge advantage over smartphones.

I could choose a slow shutter speed to get this shot on my Fuji X100F, whereas most mobile phones would have used a much faster shutter speed resulting in a vastly different image.

Smartphones and the software that powers them are so advanced and sophisticated that people are perfectly happy letting them make the decisions and do most of the heavy lifting. But if you want more control you won’t get it on a mobile phone. Even the dedicated camera apps run up against physical limitations such as focal lengths that can’t be changed.

There are times when the photo you want to take isn’t the photo your camera wants to take. In those situations, a dedicated camera will let you change aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to get the exact photo you want.

I shot this image at 200mm, f/2.8, ISO 100, and 1/4000 second, which is impossible for any mobile phone.

Low-Light Shooting

DSLRs will always have the advantage over mobile phones in low light due to the way camera sensors collect light. Larger sensors mean larger photosensitive sites, which means they can capture more information about incoming light when there isn’t a lot of it.

At Google’s recent Pixel 3 announcement they demonstrated a feature that vastly improves its low-light shooting. But it only works with still subjects. It also runs into the same limitations all mobile phones have such as fixed focal length and limited options for changing settings.

I took this deep under the earth in Mammoth Cave National Park, 23mm, f/2.0, 1/20 second, ISO 6400. While some phones could have taken a shot similar to this they would have needed much longer shutter speeds, which would make the people a blurry mess.

Try it for yourself to see what I mean. Even with the best night-mode options on the newest mobile phone, you’ll still struggle to get clear shots of moving subjects. It’s great if you only require pictures of static compositions such as buildings or parked cars. But if you want to capture shots of kids, animals or anything that moves around, your mobile phone will probably leave you wanting more.

As the technology advances, low-light photography on mobile phones will improve. But there will always be physical limitations inherent in the platform that DSLRs and mirrorless cameras simply don’t have to deal with. Much of it stems from their larger image sensors, which collect much more light data per pixel. But the fact cameras let you specify the ISO value you need to get the image you want is also a big advantage.

Model train in a dim basement, shot at 50mm, f/2.8, 1/60 second, ISO 3200.

Not Quite There… Yet

I’m a big believer in the promise of computational photography in mobile phones. If the best camera is the one you have with you, then for hundreds of millions of people around the world their mobile phone is the ideal choice. But even with all the rapid advances in technology, there are still plenty of reasons to own a traditional camera.

If you have one that’s been relegated to a dark closet or dusty shelf and replaced by a high-tech mobile phone, get it out and see what it can do. The results may surprise you and have you wanting to use it more and explore the possibilities it offers.

What about you? What are the advantages of using traditional cameras that keep you coming back to them time after time? I’d also like to hear your thoughts about mobile phones and the technology they offer photographers.

One thing is clear. No matter where you stand on this issue, we certainly live in exciting times for photography.

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Why I Always Use an L-Plate Bracket for Landscape Photography

25 Jun

There’s no secret that there’s an abundance of accessories for landscape photographers. Some of them are considered absolutely essential while others might just be unnecessary extra weight in your backpack. With so many tools to choose between it can be hard to separate the useful from the unuseful, which is probably why we end up purchasing so many unnecessary products.

When talking about accessories that are useful for landscape photographers I find that there’s a handful of products that keep coming up: a tripod, a variety of filters, a remote shutter release and a cleaning kit. There’s no doubt that these are tools that can make a huge difference in your photography.

L-Bracket Plate in use shooting on tripod.

But there’s one that I feel goes under the radar quite often, which is fascinating as it’s one that the majority of professional landscape photographers use: an L-plate bracket.

What is an L-Plate Bracket?

If this is the first time you’ve heard about an L-plate bracket I urge you to keep reading this article and to consider if this is a tool you should be adding to your equipment list.

The L-Plate bracket is a piece of metal that is fastened to your camera body as a replacement for the regular quick release tripod plate. Unlike a regular quick release plate, an L-Plate is shaped as an L, bending 90 degrees up the side of the camera. This makes it easy to quickly switch between a horizontal or vertical orientation, which is a benefit I’ll come back to in a minute.

To connect the camera to the tripod you place a clamp on the tripod’s ball head. These clamps come in a few different options, including a quick-release lock and a twist lock.

Why I Always Use an L-Plate Bracket for Landscape Photography - camera mounted on a tripod with an l-plate bracket

Why I Always Use an L-Plate Bracket

Ever since I started with landscape photography and purchased my first L-Plate, this has been an accessory that I have recommended. During the last few years, I’ve noticed that more and more beginners are understanding the value of this tool and I’m often surprised to see that the majority of my workshop participants use one.

The main benefit of using an L-Plate is that you can easily switch between a horizontal and vertical orientation. Now, you might ask “how is it easier to remove and re-attach the camera than to just loosen the ball head and readjust it?”.

That is a good question and one that might not seem that obvious but the answer is actually quite simple. When shifting from horizontal to a vertical orientation with an L-plate you keep the same composition.

L-Plate Bracket for Landscape Photography - camera mounted vertically using an l-plate

It’s easy to change the orientation of your camera when using an L-Plate

When shifting from horizontal to vertical orientation without an L-Plate you need to move the tripod as you’ve also moved the camera a few centimeters to the side, meaning you’ve lost the composition you had previously. With an L-plate attached, you maintain the composition and don’t have to worry about moving the tripod back and forth each time you change the orientation.

Another big benefit for those who shoot panoramas is that the camera perfectly pivots around the right spot, meaning you won’t have problems stitching the shots together later.

Who are L-Plates for?

Now I’m not going to lie and say that L-Plates are for everyone. If you’re a studio photographer or if you never use a tripod, it’s better not to waste your money on this tool. However, if you’re a photographer who regularly uses a tripod, I highly recommend that you get one right away.

a vertical photo of a landscape scene - L-Plate Bracket for Landscape Photography

It’s easy to quickly change to a vertical orientation when using an L-Plate

Here are a few photography genres which will greatly benefit from using an L-Plate:

  • Landscape photography
  • Astrophotography
  • Architectural photography
  • Commercial photographers
  • Macro photographers
  • Studio photographers (who use tripods)

Shot vertically using the L-Bracket.

What to look for when purchasing an L-Plate

Unlike many of the other types of accessories we find for photography, there aren’t a whole lot of options when it comes to L-plate brackets. There’s no fancy technology or must-have features. This is a simple tool, but there are still a couple of things to look for when you’re purchasing one.

  • Never purchase “universal” plates: When you’re searching for L-Plates you’ll most likely come across several models which are branded as universal plates. Do not purchase one of these! While they claim to be universal, this is rarely the case. Most likely parts of the plate will block the pockets and plugs on the side of your camera.
  • Metal plates are always best: Metal plates might be a few dollars more expensive but they are worth every cent. A sturdy metal plate is more durable and less likely to malfunction (I’ve had my RRS L-Plate for 4 years and it still works like new).

Final tips

The best option is to find a metal plate which is specifically made for your camera model. For example, I’m using a plate that perfectly fits the Nikon D800 and D810 but when using it on my backup camera, the Nikon D750, it covers the ports on the side, meaning I’m not able to use a cable release.

Lastly, you don’t need to purchase the most expensive alternatives. I know many photographers who use L-Plates that cost between $ 10 and $ 30, and these work just as well as more expensive versions. Just make sure that it’s made of metal and fits your camera. You’re likely to find good options for less than $ 50 so don’t feel like you have to get one of the premium $ 200 versions.

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Why You and Your Camera Do Not Always See Eye to Eye

03 May

Your camera captures images with the potential of over 4000 tones between black and white (if captured in grayscale) or 4000 shades of color in RGB. But once the image is captured, the camera’s job is finished. Then the real work begins.

Squirrel Original JPEG - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The shadows of early morning lighting caused the detail in this JPEG file to bury all the important shadow detail in the darkness.

The distribution of these tones is your responsibility. Each one of these 4000 tone levels is like photographic currency. Never leave money on the table. Put them all to good use. Here’s where the histogram comes in.

Squirrel RAW Interpreter - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The RAW file of this same shot had plenty of high-bit range to push around and adjust, making my friend appear as though he were in ideal lighting.

But before you can understand the histogram, you must understand how the image sensor in your camera sees light. Image sensors are linear in the way they capture light. Unlike the human eye, the camera’s image sensor registers light by volume; the brightest light hitting the sensor fills that sensor’s light bucket first, occupying over half the available registry.

This may make mathematical sense but that’s where the problem starts. Your eye isn’t a mathematical instrument and it doesn’t quantify light the same way a digital camera image sensor does.

Camera Tonal Distribution

If you look at the way camera sensors register light you’ll see that exactly half of the information recorded by the image sensor (2048 of the 4096 registers) belongs to the brightest of the six stops of light being captured. The next brightest stop records half of the remaining information (1024 registers) and so on.

By the time the darkest stop is recorded, only 64 of the 4096 light registers are left to record all the shadow detail. Since humans quite naturally recognize detail in even the deepest shadows, we notice a lack of detail in these areas instinctively. Over 25% of the image potentially appears very dark and lacking in detail.

Eye Camera Distribution - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Oddly, this lopsided method of capturing light is referred to as linear in that each successive stop records half of the remaining tones in the photo. This ain’t logically linear to the human eye! If the actual balance of human light recognition were expressed as Gamma, it would be gauged at something more like 1.7 and 2.5, depending on the lighting conditions.

Your eye has a nearly infinitely adaptable capacity to register light and is simply more attuned to recognizing detail in low light than your camera.

Let me restate that – your eyes are designed to see more detail in the darker areas than in the extremely light areas. This is completely backward from the way digital cameras record light. This disparity then presents engineers with a significant challenge; how to transpose a linear index into a non-linear or human system.

Venice Oak - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Venice Oak CR - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Because this image was shot toward the sky on a very overcast day, the darker tones lost all detail. But because the image was captured and saved in the camera’s RAW format, the 16-bit color space gave me the ability to adjust many individual settings, recapturing the scene as my eyes remembered it (above).

Out of the 4096 tones that are captured, precious few are left to record critical differences in the darkest parts of an image. The darker tones (since they reflect less light for the image sensor to use) are crammed into a very small portion of the recorded tonal range.

The result is that the three-quarter tones, those found between black and the three-quarter tones almost always appear very dark and lacking in tone separation. Therefore, images that are not adjusted (in post-production) to display low-end tonality will always print dark in the three-quarter tones. Let me say that again – always. A non-linear tonal adjustment is mandatory if your image is to print correctly.

Longboat Seaoats - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The late afternoon sun off Longboat Key in Sarasota provided ideal warm lighting, allowing me to use the original JPEG format with very few adjustments.

The exception to this statement happens when your image is captured in a controlled lighting environment (like a photo studio) where lights and reflectors can be strategically placed to illuminate shadow areas or when the subject is ideally positioned in outdoor lighting. When carefully arranged lighting is possible, little post-production services may be needed at all. But very few of those ideal lighting scenarios likely exist during your everyday shooting.

JPEG Tone Distribution

Under this controlled lighting JPEGs can produce spectacular results simply because the tone distribution algorithm is designed for ideal lighting conditions. In the absence of ideal lighting though, this algorithm applies the same stock tonal shape to every image assuming that the lighting is perfect.

The result from imperfect (light, dark, or imbalanced) lighting and a JPEG capture is an imbalanced picture containing only a fraction of the editing range of the same scene captured as a RAW image. The editing “elbow room” of a JPEG is severely restricted in color and tone distribution.

St Augustine Tree - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The highlights captured by this JPEG image were too blown out to recover.

St Augustine Tree CR - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

The same highlights captured and edited in RAW format allowed me to extract full detail in the highlights while retaining all the detail in the shadows as well.

Here’s where the tone distribution-monitoring provided by the histogram can be used to guide the editing process, even from JPEG images. It’s actually a good idea to regard the histogram as a tone map. The histogram will reveal the ratio of tones in the image residing in the lighter or darker portions of the image.

A Word About Bit Depth

Without getting into a long detailed discussion, it is always advisable to shoot both RAW and JPEG images of every scene. This is a simple setting on your camera that requires absolutely no extra effort on your part but provides a much deeper level of tones to push around and rearrange.

This recommendation follows simple logic; RAW images provide more flexibility to adjust the full range of tones while JPEG images are prefabricated one-size-fits-all interpretations of a scene. RAW images are like film-based color negatives while JPEG images are like Polaroids. Negatives (RAW files) can be adjusted freely, Polaroids (JPEGs) are very restricted.

RAW Tone Distribution: The Phoenix Scenario

In Greek mythology, the Phoenix is a long-lived bird that is cyclically regenerated or reborn from apparent oblivion. Used in this sense, any digital image capture that is apparently “dead” by all appearance can have life breathed into it by powerful image editing software.

Kailua Ranch Before - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Such is the case with this image captured during an overcast day in Kailua Hawaii. Absolutely no detail can be seen in this JPEG image; all appears hopeless. A reject, right? Not so fast, quickdraw!

We’re here to raise the dead, remember? While nothing can replace the correct exposure, don’t throw in the towel on an image that looks too dark until you’ve tried this magic collection of tone tools.

Kailua Ranch After - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Without the extraordinary bandwidth provided by the 16-bit RAW file format, this level of recovery would be impossible.

The image was seriously underexposed and appeared to be hopelessly dark. But when it was opened in both Camera Raw and Lightroom software packages, and the same adjustments applied, identical results were achieved.

Whether the image is captured in jpeg, tiff, or raw format, it can be opened in either of Adobe’s raw interpreter packages, Adobe Camera Raw or Lightroom. Within either of these packages, both chrominance and luminance controls are provided that allow you to rearrange tones and shape images extensively.

To open a tiff or jpeg file in Camera Raw, you must first locate the file in Adobe Bridge, right-click on the file and choose “Open in Camera Raw…” You can open these files in Lightroom either internally or by dragging the file onto the LR icon in the dock.

Raw Controls Histograms - Your Camera Sees Differently Than Your Eyes

Camera Raw control panel (left) and Lightroom control panel (right). Top histograms belong to the original while the bottom shows the adjusted image. Both software packages offer virtually identical tools to shape and reconstruct the image.

Recognizing the differences between the way your eyes and your camera sees light will give you a head start on adjusting camera images to more closely resemble the look and feel of the original scene.

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DxOMark republishes Pentax 645Z results and it’s as good as we always suspected

15 Nov

In a move likely to completely silence all whispers of chicanery, DxOMark has finally published its results for Ricoh’s Pentax 645Z. The camera just misses out on being hailed as the best stills camera sensor ever (as it would have been, when data was first published for the camera back in 2015), but it still scores a very impressive 101 points.

And, as we know, points mean… Er…

Several years after its release, the 645Z still holds its own in the company of some excellent cameras built around similar sensors.

The results themselves are very similar to those of the Hasselblad X1D 50c, which itself is based around a very similar Sony CMOS sensor (albeit for at least $ 3000 more). How much of the difference can be ascribed to better readout circuitry, how much to the Hasselblad’s use of 15-bit Raw files (I mean, that extra 0.1EV of DR has to live somewhere), and how much is simply within the tests’ margin of error it’s impossible to know.

Still, we can now be certain that, while not quite the best sensor in the world, is 99% as good as the best sensor DxO has tested.

In all seriousness, though, whatever the reason for the delay, it’s a seriously impressive performance from a very aggressively-priced camera. And, since we have first-hand knowledge of how difficult it is to get a 645Z for long enough to do extensive testing on, we think it’s great to see its performance recognized.

Click here to read DxOMark’s assessment

Press Release:

Pentax 645Z: A great choice for medium-format shooters

PARIS – November 14, 2017 – DxOMark has just published the results of its in-depth analysis of the Pentax 645Z medium-format camera. With an overall DxOMark sensor score of 101 points, the Pentax 645Z has the second-highest-scoring sensor we’ve ever tested, beaten only by the 51.4Mp Sony sensor in the Hasselblad X1D-50c. The 645Z achieves extremely good sub-scores, indicating that it can capture a huge range of colors and tones in a single file.

It’s clear from our testing that the Pentax 645Z’s sensor is extremely capable, coming within a whisper of matching the performance of the Hasselblad X1D sensor. Its high dynamic range and color sensitivity make the 645Z ideally suited for capturing the types of scenes that are traditionally favored by medium-format photographers — landscapes, weddings, portraits, and other photographic genres that require capturing images with lots of detail, low noise, and smooth tonal gradations.

In addition, the Pentax 645Z controls noise well, making it suitable for use in relatively low light, and perhaps expanding the range of conditions in which medium-format cameras are traditionally used.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Everything you Always Wanted to know about a Career in Photography but were Afraid to Ask

08 Jun

Before I get into this article, I want to set the stage by saying that the objective here is not to diminish or make light of the concerns and questions that novice photographers have. In fact, at some point in our careers, we have all asked similar questions – sometimes out loud, and sometimes just in the solitude of our own minds. There is no wrong or silly question, and there are no right or wrong answers. These are in no particular order, and the views expressed here are solely based on my own experiences.

Memorable Jaunts DPS Article What you want to know - Beach sunset photos

One of my favorite images to date happened by pure accident – I saw the image in my mind even before I took a single frame.

Where can I learn about everything related to photography for FREE?

We are both lucky and unlucky to live in the era of the Internet. Any google search, on average, yields thousands of pages, articles, and YouTube videos. If you have a burning question about anything and everything, the easiest way to learn is via the Internet.

Sites like our own Digital Photography School are a great resource for almost any topic related to photography, from a beginner to an experienced photographer. Other sites like Creative Live offer many classes on various aspects of photography, as well as other creative genres. While most sites provide a great overview of a particular topic, any in-depth research requires time and money. There are number of virtual, as well as live workshops, all over the world covering all aspects of photography. A few that come to mind are The Design School and Clickinmoms (I have used both services and am very happy with the level of instruction provided there – this is just my personal experience).

You could also check out our dPS ebooks and online courses.

Memorable Jaunts DPS Article What you want to know - Chicago Wedding Photos

I learn a lot online, in the comfort of my own home, but every once in while, I like to take a live workshop – not just to update my portfolio, but also to learn from and meet others in the industry!

How do I shoot in manual mode?

Shooting in manual mode is one of the most intimidating things that most amateur photographers face. If you have a DSLR camera that has a manual mode, it is really not that hard once you get the hang of it. The best thing you can do in learning to shoot in manual, is to understand the exposure triangle and how the three key components of photography – shutter speed, ISO and aperture work – independently and with each other. Here is a good article that digs deeper into photographing in manual mode. Remember this too take time and practice. There is another interesting article here in the Digital Photography School archives that explains all three shooting modes and is worth a read.

Memorable Jaunts DPS Article What you want to know - Understanding backlight

Mastering manual mode is important, especially for images like this – backlit golden hour images…this is SOOC (straight out of the camera).

What lens will give me a blurry background?

If I had a penny for the number of times that I get asked this question from other photographers, as well as my clients who are looking to upgrade their DSLR cameras, I would have an overflowing piggy bank! Blurry backgrounds, or bokeh as it is know in the photography space, is actually a function of aperture (i.e. f-stop), focal length, and distance of the subject from the background. Check out How To Achieve Nice Bokeh [In Plain English] from the dPS archives that addresses this issue specifically.

Memorable Jaunts DPS Article What you want to know - Lilacs in the rain-1

A wide aperture on 50mm lens gives a shallow depth of field where most of the background is blurry.

How much money do I need to spend to get started with a photography business?

There are again any different ways to answer this question. You can essentially spend as much, or as little as you want, to get started. At a bare minimum you will need a good camera system (good is a very relative term here, there are several prosumer cameras on the market today, at various price levels). In many places in the world, particularly in the US, there are several rental companies that offer various cameras and lenses for rent. Borrow Lens, Lensrental and LensProToGo are a few that come to mind. You can also check with your local camera shop to see if they offer rental services.

You do not need the latest and greatest camera system to be a professional photographer. While gear is definitely a plus, skill and the ability to work with what you have to get the results you need are far more important, especially when you are just starting out. Once you develop your own shooting style as well as what you want to focus on, you can slowly build up your gear by adding equipment based on your current needs.

How can I make money from my photography, and do it fast?

401(K) 2012

By 401(K) 2012

Sorry to burst your bubble, but the short answer here is that you cannot make money in anything fast. Everything takes time, practice, and patience. Just like any other career, the more time and effort you invest in your photography, the more experience you will gain. With experience comes confidence and recognition. So if your end goal is to be a internationally recognized photographer, treat it like a career and a business and invest in yourself, your education, and your experience. Don’t be afraid to roll up your sleeves and do the hard work – and in time, you will reap the benefits.

How much should I charge for my photography?

This is again something that is very subjective. What you charge for your services depends on many factors like your skill level, the value of photography in the area that you live in, and the buying capacity of the clients that you are targeting. Another thing to understand is the monetary value of your time. Remember your time is not just the amount of time you spend photographing the client – also take into account any travel to and from the location, editing time, and backend work like backing up photos, uploading galleries, and other administrative tasks. Once you have a handle on all these factors as it relates to your situation, charge an amount that makes it worth your while to photograph your clients. If you are looking to earn a living through your photography, then treat it like a business and not just a hobby. Read: 7 Things That Keep You From Charging What You’re Worth (and how to get over them).

What kind of photography should I focus on?

The easiest way to answer this question is to ask yourself what you enjoy photographing. Write down all the genres of photography that interest you, and try them all out if possible. Ask family and friends to model for you, if you are interested in portraits. Photograph different locations at different times of day if you are interested in landscape photography. Experiment with different types of food and styling if you are interested in food photography. Once you have a reasonable amount of experience in these categories, pick one or two to focus on, and give it your best. Don’t be afraid to experiment once in awhile in other genres, just to flex your creative muscles.

Memorable Jaunts DPS Article What you want to know - Bridal Portraits

I am a wedding and lifestyle photographer – that is what I enjoy doing the most. But mixed in my portfolio will be a bit of travel and editorial images that help me flex my creative muscles.

How can I get clients?

This is another big one that I get asked a lot, and I wish there was an easy answer. In fact, this is something that even I still struggle with, six years into my business. Getting new clients, and keeping a steady stream of clients is hard work. You have to constantly market yourself and your services at every opportunity you get. When you meet new people, don’t be afraid to say what you do. It took me a long time to introduce myself as a professional photographer, but once I said it often enough, I realized that I got more confident in not only my photography skills, but also in my business skills. Network and connect with your competitors, as well as other businesses in your area. Do a trade for images if appropriate, and remember not everyone you meet will be interested in getting pictures taken, and that is totally okay.

Memorable Jaunts DPS Article What you want to know - Lifestyle Portraits

A casual conversation at a networking meeting led to an epic family photoshoot and I gained a good friend too.

How can I build a portfolio of my work?

The length of time you invest in yourself and your photography skills is directly proportional to how long you will take to build your portfolio of work. If you constantly focus on learning and improving yourself, the more confident you will become, and the more opportunities you will find to create work that you are proud of. I have a few general rules that I follow in my photography journey

  • Photograph something every week if not every day – the objective here is to learn new techniques and perfect things I already know with respect to my gear.
  • 10:1 ratio – for every 10 minutes I shoot, I want to produce at least one image that I am proud of.
  • Spend time on personal projects – my mantra here is create for the sake of creation.

For me, this is an easy way to constantly update my portfolio with work that I am proud of, and which also represents my creative style.

Memorable Jaunts DPS Article What you want to know - Wedding Styled Shoot

Creating for the sake of creation is a great way to update your portfolio as well as connect with other vendors and creatives in your space.

This is just a small set of questions that I found helpful when I was starting off on my career in photography. If you have others that have helped you navigate the photography waters, feel free to list them in the comments so others can benefit as well.

If you have different questions that you’ve been wanting to ask, this is the place to do it. Let’s see if we can’t get them answered for you as well.


Editor’s Note: This is one of a series of articles this week that are Open for Discussion. We want to get the conversation going, hear your voice and opinions, and talk about some possibly controversial topics in photography.

Give us your thoughts below on the article above and watch for more discussion topics.

See all the recent discussion topics here:

  • 7 Commonly Accepted Photography Beliefs Debunked
  • Is HDR dead? Some dPS Writer’s Thoughts on this Controversial Topic
  • How to Find your Personal Photographic Style
  • Why You May be Failing to Reach Your Potential as a Photographer
  • To Process or Not To Process? Let’s Discuss
  • How much do you process your images? – a dPS POLL
  • Does the Camera Matter? SLR versus Mirrorless versus Smartphone
  • Natural Light Versus Artificial Light: Which is Better?
  • How Limitations Can Help You Grow as a Photographer
  • Brand Name Versus Third-Party Photography Gear: Which is better?

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Erez Marom: Why you shouldn’t always believe the forecast

11 Mar

Landscape photographer Erez Marom has taken photographs all over the world in all manner of locations, in all kinds of weather conditions. But whereas many landscape photographers are slaves to the weather forecast, Marom has learned that some of his best shots come from the most unlikely situations. Click through to read more, and see some stunning images

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Why Aperture Priority Mode Isn’t Always the Best Choice

03 Jul

There are a lot of common mistakes to make in photography, but possibly the most frequent is to shoot in Aperture Priority mode when it’s not the best choice.

There are many situations where shooting in Aperture Priority is ideal, such as when you are using a tripod and your shutter speed does not matter, when you are in strong sunlight, when you are shooting a scene with a wide-angle lens and nothing is moving, or when you want a very shallow depth of field for aesthetic purposes.

However, in most other situations it is beneficial to shoot in Shutter Priority mode (or manual mode).

Lamborghini, SoHo

Lamborghini, SoHo – Shutter Speed priority can be much more effective for Street Photography, where spontaneous shots occur frequently, and freezing motion is very important.

I see this problem most often when people are traveling. They will stick their camera on Aperture Priority for the entire day, forgetting that the light sometimes will not be strong enough to yield a shutter speed fast enough to offset camera shake or to freeze moving subjects, particularly if their lens aperture does not go below f/4 or f/3.5.

The result is that they will come home and many of their images will be blurry, when they didn’t have to be.

Your shutter speed is the first line of defense for creating a sharp image. The rule of thumb is that the shutter speed should be at least one over the focal length of the lens to offset handheld camera shake. I like to add a little extra speed to that to be safe, so if you are shooting at 50mm on a full frame camera, I would keep the shutter speed at least at 1/80th. On a cropped sensor however, such as an APS-C camera, a 50mm might be the equivalent of an 80mm view, so I would shoot at least at 1/100th of a second.

You can see, especially if you are using a telephoto focal length, how quickly and easily your shutter speed can go below this threshold when on Aperture Priority and not in strong, direct light.

Plaza Hotel

The Birds and Plaza Hotel. A spontaneous shot on Shutter Priority at 1/500th and ISO 800.  On Aperture Priority there is a much stronger chance that I would have yielded too slow of a shutter speed, especially since it was overcast and late in the day.

When there are moving subjects in a scene such as people, 1/320th or 1/250th is often a good shutter speed to freeze their motion. So when traveling, I use 1/320th as my baseline shutter speed and will lower it for the situations where there is no motion or when the light is extremely low. This guarantees that no matter what I capture, it will be sharp, including the spontaneous moments. Often, because I shoot this way and prefer to also shoot with an aperture of f/8 or above, I will raise the ISO to 800, 1600, or even 3200 in areas with very low light. This will add more grain/noise to the image, but especially on the newer digital cameras you will quickly notice that the technical quality and sharpness of your images will actually be improved, despite this grain.

Now you might be saying that you are able to shoot in Aperture Priority mode (or Manual mode) all of the time and can pay attention to the corresponding shutter speeds so you never have a problem. That’s great, and in that case, please keep shooting in Aperture Priority. I do not want to stop you from shooting in a way that works well for you. If you know your camera settings well then you can effectively shoot in any situation with any of these modes.

However, I teach a good amount of students and I would guess that about 80 percent of them come in shooting in Aperture Priority. Then, when I look at their photos, for a good portion of these students, way too many of their photos turn out blurry, or have some sharpness issues. They will pay attention to their aperture but then zoom for a shot and not notice that the shutter speed is lower than their focal length, or not notice that is too low to freeze the motion of a subject. I find that switching them over to Shutter Priority for these situations puts the shutter speed in their mind first and then they can pay attention to the corresponding aperture to achieve the largest depth of field possible (if you are purposely looking to create a shot with a shallow depth of field, then Aperture Priority would be ideal.)

Particularly for travel photography in cities or in areas with people, often when I explain to students to try photographing around 1/320th of a second and a higher ISO, they quickly remark about how much sharper their photos become.

Give it a try and see if yours do too.

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