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  • Hands-on: The Sigma fp is shaping up to be an impressive camera for video pros

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    The Sigma fp is the world’s smallest full-frame camera. Built as a hybrid stills / video platform, the fp is highly modular and packed with features that many stills photographers would find esoteric in the extreme. The fp has clearly been designed with filmmakers in mind, and after using one for a few days, we suspect that they’ll love it.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    Measuring 112 x 70 x 45mm and weighing only 422g (just shy of one pound) with a battery and memory card, the aluminum-bodied Sigma fp is a very small, very light camera, considering its sensor format. We’re told that fp stands for ‘fortissimo pianissimo,’ which Sigma is interpreting as ‘very loud and very soft’. One way of interpreting that is ‘a lot of power in a small package’.

    Sigma has achieved the fp’s compactness in a couple of different ways. Firstly, the body is the core of a very modular system. There’s no built-in viewfinder, no integral flash, and no grip. Leaving these things out means some serious space savings, and furthermore there’s no in-body stabilization, and no mechanical shutter, either. The fp is all electronic shutter, all the time. This has one major advantage for stills photographers – totally silent shooting – but a couple of disadvantages: a very slow maximum flash sync speed, and the potential for rolling shutter (‘jello effect’) and banding in some lighting conditions.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    From behind, you can get an idea of the fp’s minimalist ergonomics. The rear of the camera is dominated by a large, touch-sensitive LCD, with only four direct control buttons to the right, plus a control wheel / 4-way controller. The accessory grip adds a protruding thumbrest but without this, the back of the camera is essentially flat. Below the screen you’ll find five more buttons, mainly geared to video shooters.

    Because the form factor of the fp is essentially a flat-sided rectangle, with barely any protuberances anywhere, it’s easy to incorporate into a video rig.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    This view shows the interesting design of the accessory grip, which is formed from a single curve of metal. It also shows off the fp’s very simple upper control layout. A control dial and integrated shutter button, a ‘REC’ button and a very simple ‘Cine | Still’ toggle for fast switching between capture modes. In a nice touch, when the switch is set to ‘Cine’, the switch moves to expose a bright red painted backing, providing quick visual feedback that the camera is set to record video, even when it is powered off.

    Also visible in this shot is a row of vent holes, above the rear LCD. More on those in a moment.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    Here’s the fp without the accessory grip attached. The grip, straps and tripod socket all use 1/4-inch threads, which makes modifying the camera pretty simple and gives videographers multiple attachment point options for incorporating the fp into a cage or shoulder-mounted rig.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    Here are those same vent holes viewed from the base of the camera. The fp is passively cooled, via a large heat sink designed to dissipate heat away from internal components and out of the camera. The system is ‘passive’ to the extent that it does not rely on mechanical fans to do so, hence it will not create any operational sound: a potential issue when shooting video.

    The vents do not lead directly to any of the fp’s delicate innards. As such, if dust or moisture make their way into them, it doesn’t present a problem. The fp is fully weather-sealed at 42 points, and Sigma is confident that the fp should stand up under use in poor weather.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    The fp does not feature an integrated hotshoe, and Sigma has opted not to make an optional EVF. Instead, for cinematographers that really need a viewfinder, there’s the LVF-11 finder, which attaches physically to the rear screen and offers a 2.5X magnification, for precise focus and composition adjustments in (say) bright ambient light.

    While not as flexible as a true electronic finder, for video work the LVF-11 works very well, and the additional stand-off distance from the back of the camera actually ends up being very useful when the fp is built up into a multi-module rig…

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    …a rig like this Zacuto one, where as you can probably imagine, the close proximity of the LCD screen to the operator’s face would make focusing on composition and focus very uncomfortable. With the LVF-11 attached, the operator can both hold the camera and look through the finder in a comfortable working position.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    This rig demonstrates the fp with an optional HU-11 hotshoe adapter attached, allowing for the addition of a range of accessories, such as an external microphone, or of course a flash (assuming you can live with the 1/30sec max flash sync speed).

    It also shows a Samsung T5 SSD drive (right) attached to the fp via USB 3, into which 12-bit CinemaDNG Raw video can be recorded directly.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    Here’s the USB port, alongside the HDMI port and mic socket. The six gold connectors are proprietary, and carry power to the accessory hotshoe unit.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    According to Sigma CEO Kazuto Yamaki, the fp was developed on the basis of knowledge gleaned from the creation of Sigma’s ‘Cine’ range of Art-series prime lenses. The 35mm T1.5 is shown here, dwarfing the fp. But cine primes are typically heavy things, and every ounce saved from the total setup is precious, especially for filmmakers working with shoulder-mounted rigs.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    We’ve only had a full production-quality fp for a few days, but that’s long enough to form some preliminary impressions. Right now, we’re pretty positive for the most part, with some caveats. Stills photographers might be a little shy of it at first (I did find myself really wishing for a conventional finder, and I’d personally take a bigger body for the sake of IBIS) but with one of the optional grips attached, the fp handles pretty well. The most serious handicap for stills shooting is likely to be rolling shutter, which does introduce distortion in some situations, albeit not to a problematic extent in many shooting scenarios.

    Although the fp uses a contrast-detection autofocus system, it is reasonably fast and responsive (with the L-mount 45mm F2.8 and 14-24mm F2.8 attached) and finds faces and eyes fairly quickly and accurately, assuming your subject is facing the camera. That said, overall autofocus performance is definitely a step behind the best of the mirrorless competition, with noticeable lag (for example) when placing the desired AF point by touch.

    Hands-on with the Sigma fp

    Realistically though, the fp is a video camera that can shoot stills – not the other way round. And video pros have a lot to be excited about. In the fp, Sigma is courting them pretty aggressively, with features like HDR video (coming via firmware), 12-bit Raw video output to an SSD and ‘Directors’ Viewfinder’ which allows filmmakers to simulate the different viewing angles and fields of view of other popular video cameras for framing.

    So that’s the fp, coming soon to a store near you for an MSRP of $ 1,800. With the potential to be a seriously powerful tool for filmmakers, along with some solid stills photography features, the fp is an interesting prospect, and a bold move for Sigma. Watch out for more analysis – including a detailed look at its video capabilities – soon.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Volta packs an 8,000mAh power bank into the handle of a camera rig

    A new Indiegogo campaign is seeking funds for Volta, an 8,000mAh power bank packed into a camera rig top handle. The product features multiple 1/4″ and 3/8″ screw mounts, a removable ‘handle component,’ and two interchangeable 21700 batteries, which are the same power cells used by Tesla.

    The top handle design is presented as a convenient way to tote around an extra power bank — one that, in the case of Volta, features a USB-C port on the front of the handle offering 7.4v versus the 5v commonly offered by commercial external batteries. When Volta isn’t needed as a handle, that component can be removed to use it as an ordinary power bank.

    The team behind Volta presents the device as being akin to the combination of an NPF-970 battery and a top handle, but as noted by DIY Photography, the claim doesn’t quite hold up. The 8,000mAh capacity comes from two 4,000mAh power cells wired in series, which works out to 29.6Wh; Sony’s 6,600mAh NP-F970 7.2v battery, on the other hand, features 47.4Wh.

    Regardless, the Volta is available to back on Indiegogo with pledges starting at $ 32 USD. Shipping to backers is expected to start in December 2019, assuming the campaign is successful and everything goes according to plan.

    Via: DIY Photography


    Disclaimer: Remember to do your research with any crowdfunding project. DPReview does its best to share only the projects that look legitimate and come from reliable creators, but as with any crowdfunded campaign, there’s always the risk of the product or service never coming to fruition.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Apple loses patent lawsuit, will have to pay RED royalties for ProRes RAW format

    Apple has failed in an attempt to over-throw patents held by RED that govern methods for compressing Raw video, leaving the company open to paying royalties on its ProRes RAW file format. Apple had tried to show that the technology RED patented around its RedCode codec was obvious and shouldn’t have been granted protection, but the court rejected the claim leaving RED secure to license the lossless compression technique to camera, software and accessories manufacturers.

    It seems that Apple had wanted to avoid paying royalties on the ProRes RAW format it introduced via Final Cut Pro last year, and which is used in some DJI drones, some Atomos recorders and a few other products. The problem is that RED claims ProRes RAW uses technology it owns for compressing those RAW files to make them manageable to work with. RedCode allows Raw video to be captured and compressed in-camera in much the same way that stills cameras do, allowing data directly from the sensor to be recorded and made available for very flexible post-production manipulation.

    RED’s technology allows files to be compressed by ratios of up to 22:1, though it says 3:1 is mathematically lossless and 8:1 is visually lossless. The value of this is not only that it allows video files to be reduced in size, but also that for the same size file videographers can record in higher resolutions to provide the means for heavy cropping and frame splitting in post-production.

    RED President Jarred Land posted on the RED User forum that he was glad the company’s technology remained protected but that the dispute between RED and Apple was just a means to finding where each stood technology-wise so they could continue to work together. He wrote:

    ‘We are pleased to see our REDCODE patents withstand another challenge.

    To be clear, as I mentioned before, this never really was Apple vs. RED. It has always been APPLE + RED, and this was all part of the process defining how we work together in the future.

    RED integration with Apple’s METAL framework for realtime R3D playback is coming along well and the work that the two teams are doing together is exceeding expectations. We are very excited for the new Mac Pro and the new XDR pro display and the power they bring to the entire RED workflow.’

    The ‘another challenge’ refers to a similar attempt made by Sony in 2013.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • PolarPro introduces ultra-lightweight filter systems with active creators in mind

    Today, California-based filter manufacturer, PolarPro, known for their premium ND and polarizing filters for cameras, as well as drones, announced the launch of two toolless, ultra-lightweight filter systems – one matte box, Basecamp, and one landscape filter system called Summit – designed to catapult professional creatives to the next skill level.

    BaseCamp Ultra-lightweight Matte Box System

    A base camp is a pillar of safety, as you head out into the unknown. It’s a haven to take shelter intermittently as battle the elements and push your limits to capture the best possible footage. Camera gear is getting heavier, especially lenses as higher quality optics are implemented. PolarPro designed BaseCamp, the lightest matte box system possible at 438 grams, to alleviate the burden heavier cameras put on operators and gimbals.

    Built on the foundation of PolarPro’s Quartzline series, the toolless Variable Neutral Density configuration allows photographers and filmmakers to adapt to any lighting change instantly without having to swap out filters. Its modular design, constructed out of aluminum and carbon fibers, features a removable flag and hood that allows users to customize it to suit their production requirements.

    Summit Landscape Filter System

    Summit is a new range filter system aimed at photographers. It allows for toolless filter swapping and, like the BaseCamp system, has been designed with a large grip handle to minimize the risk of fingerprints on the filters. Summit filters screw onto the end of your lens and were constructed, with lightweight aluminum, in a fully light-sealed system to prevent light leakage.

    PolarPro is offering $ 100 off the first 300 people who purchase their Summit Landscape Kit, the BaseCamp VND Kit, and their Cores. The BaseCamp VND Kit retails for $ 799, its Core is $ 399, Rectangular Filters are $ 299 each, while Rails Kits come out to $ 119.99 each. The Summit Landscape Kit will cost you $ 699, its Core $ 299.99, both Gradient and Neutral Density Filters $ 249.99 each, and a Circular Polarizer for either the Matte Box or Filter System costs $ 150. All can be purchased on PolarPro’s website.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Plugable’s new 1TB, 2TB Thunderbolt 3 NVMe SSDs offer read speeds up to 2800MB/s

    Computer accessory manufacturer Plugable has announced the release of its updated Thunderbolt 3 NVMe External SSDs, now with 1TB and 2TB capacities.

    The compact drive is constructed of solid anodized aluminum, weighs 173g (6.1oz) and features an integrated 18cm (7in) 40Gbps Thunderbolt 3 cable (read: not removable). Plugable claims the drive offers read and write speeds of up to 2800MB per second and 1800 MB per second, respectively, thanks to its PCIe Gen3 x4 connection.

    In our tests with a 1TB review unit Plugable sent our way to test out the claimed speeds, we were able to reach sustained write speeds of 1915MB per second and sustained read speeds of 2331MB per second using the Blackmagic Design Disk Speed test on macOS Catalina.

    A screenshot of our test run on the latest beta of macOS Catalina using a 2016 15.6-inch MacBook Pro with Touchbar.

    These drives are backwards compatible with USB-C connections, but to get the fastest speeds, you’ll want to make sure the computer you’re plugging it into features Thunderbolt 3 connectivity. The drives come pre-formatted with exFAT out of the box, but can be reformatted to work with any other macOS or Windows system.

    The 1TB and 2TB Plugable Thunderbolt 3 NVMe External SSDs are currently available for $ 299 and $ 499, respectively. Plugable is offering a ‘launch discount’ of $ 50 on the 1TB drive and $ 100 on the 4TB drive for an unspecified amount of time. All units come with a 36-month warranty.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Fujifilm X-Pro3 review: living in the moment, not a screen in sight

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    Silver Award

    85%
    Overall score

    The Fujifilm X-Pro3 is a 26 megapixel mirrorless interchangeable lens camera built around a clever optical / electronic viewfinder and designed to look like a classic rangefinder.

    This, the third iteration of Fujifilm’s first X-mount camera gains titanium top and base plates but the most noteworthy feature is an LCD panel that faces the back of the camera and needs to be flipped down to use it. The viewfinder and rear screen are the main distinctions between this and the similarly-specced X-T3.

    A low-resolution status panel on the back of the camera speaks to the underlying ethos of the camera, which we’ll look into in more detail on the next page.

    Key Specifications

    • 26MP APS-C BSI CMOS sensor
    • Optical/Electronic hybrid viewfinder
    • Fold down rear LCD
    • Rear-facing Memory LCD status panel
    • Titanium top/bottom plates
    • 4K video at up to 30p, 200Mbps
    • 11 Film Simulation modes, now with ‘Classic Neg’

    The X-Pro3 is available in painted black version with a list price of $ 1799 or with the silver or black hardened, coated surface for $ 1999.


    What’s new and how it compares

    The X-Pro3 looks a lot like its predecessors except for one major change.

    Read more

    Body and controls

    A new titanium top plate, rear ‘sub monitor’ and hidden flip-out LCD round out the major body updates.

    Read more

    First impressions

    Photo editor Dan Bracaglia took a pre-production X-Pro3 on holiday to Northern California. Here are his thoughts on the hidden rear screen.

    Read more

    Image quality

    The X-Pro3 offers the excellent image quality and attractive processing options we saw in the X-T3. It also gains an in-camera HDR mode.

    Read more

    Autofocus

    The X-Pro3’s autofocus is highly capable but requires more user input than the best of its peers.

    Read more

    Video

    Despite its old-skool stills ethos, the X-Pro3 can shoot some impressive video footage.

    Read more

    Shooting with the X-Pro3

    The X-Pro3’s design pushes you to shoot with the optical finder or with the camera at waist level. We found both methods to be limiting and engaging to different degrees.

    Read more

    Conclusion

    The X-Pro3 is an intentionally divisive camera, but one we think will hold a certain appeal for some photographers.

    Read more

    Sample gallery

    The X-Pro3 gains the ‘Classic Negative’ film stimulation. Check out examples of it and more in our hardy samples gallery.

    See more

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • The best cameras for portraits in 2019

    Whether you make a living out of taking professional portraits, or are the weekend warrior who knows their way around flashes and reflectors, you’ll want a camera with high resolution, exceptional autofocus and a good selection of portrait prime lenses.

    We’ve selected a group of cameras that meet those requirements and will produce pro-looking portraits that will satisfy your clients.


    Best for pros: Sony a7R IV

    It’s hard not to recommend Sony’s a7R IV as a portraitist’s main camera. It gives you a ton of resolution that’s backed up by an autofocus system that excels on focusing perfectly on your subjects’ eyes. You also get excellent battery life, a high-res viewfinder and refined ergonomics that make this the best-handling a7-series camera yet. Helpfully, there’s an extensive lens catalog of solid portrait options, including both zooms and primes, as well as a solid set of Sony flashes (though they wont help you out with an AF assist grid in low light).

    Our main qualms are that the autofocus accuracy can dip during burst shooting with unpredictable subjects such as fast-moving children and that the user interface is both a little laggy and not as user-friendly as it could be. But the results speak for themselves: this is an absolutely excellent option for photographing people.

    Best for amateurs: Sony a6600

    The Sony a6600 incorporates some of our favorite aspects of the a7R IV into a smaller, more affordable body: including superb autofocus tracking, great image quality and industry-leading battery life. There are also some good prime lens options for the a6600 that won’t break the bank, including Sigma’s 56mm F1.4 and Sony’s 85mm F1.8.

    Our concerns from the a7R IV remain, however, including more pronounced user-interface lag. Additionally, the ergonomics on the a6600 could do with some updating to bring them in line with the camera’s overall capability: this series of cameras has not benefited from the refinements bestowed upon the company’s full-frame models.

    Overall, though, the a6600 will assist you in capturing accurately focused, properly exposed images of people time and time again.


    While the Sony a7R IV and a6600 were our winners, there are several other cameras well-suited for portrait photography that are also worth consideration. We’ve listed them all out below with detailed breakdowns of their features and performance:

    • Our pick: Sony a7R IV
    • Our pick: Sony a6600

    Also available:

    • Canon EOS M6 II
    • Fujifilm GFX 50S
    • Nikon D850
    • Nikon Z7
    • Panasonic Lumix DC-S1R
    • Sony a7 III
    • Sony a6600

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Why Every Photographer Should be a Teacher

    The post Why Every Photographer Should be a Teacher appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

    why-every-photographer-should-be-a-teacher

    I love teaching photography – it helps me to be a better photographer as well as those I teach. Every photographer should be a teacher at some point.

    Many photographers, including myself, are largely self-taught. This does not mean learning new techniques and methods from someone more advanced than us is not welcome.

    Modern life affords you endless resources to become self-taught in many subjects. Certain professions require an academic degree, photography does not. Becoming a doctor or engineer would be impossible without formal education. To learn photography all you need to do is get online and start reading and watching videos. Most of it you can even do for free.

    Why-Every-Photographer-Should-be-a-Teacher

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    There’s no substitute for a competent teacher

    Aspects of learning that require a teacher include: receiving clear instruction in person. Having the opportunity to ask and have your questions answered, and being challenged about specifics at your personal level of learning.

    Everyone can become a competent teacher. You will always know at least a little more than someone else. Even if you’ve only learned what you believe is a little. You are capable of sharing what you know in a unique way. Your knowledge and experience will be appreciated by someone.

    Image: © Pansa Landwer-Johan

    © Pansa Landwer-Johan

    Finding the right students

    Whatever level of photography you are at, you’ll always be able to find someone who knows less than you. Or someone who does things differently than you. Connecting with people who appreciate your willingness to share is important. It’s practically impossible to teach someone who does not want to learn.

    Even complete novices can teach each other through practical experience. Going out with another photographer provides you opportunities to talk about the photos you’re taking. Because we all have a unique view of the world, we all see things differently. Sharing this with others can help us become more skilled with our cameras.

    More advanced photographers are usually more capable of teaching those with less experience. Having a positive and encouraging attitude towards each other helps. I never tell people they are doing something wrong, instead, I prefer to teach them how to make improvements to what they are doing.

    Making yourself available and reaching out to those with less experience is a good first step. Building a relationship of trust will encourage the learning process. Once your students know you’ll not lambast them for an incorrect exposure or out of focus subject, they’ll be more open to learning from you.

    Image: © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    Start by asking and looking

    Before I run a workshop, I like to see a selection of photos from people who will attend. This gives me a pretty good idea of how they like to use their cameras. It often provides me with a pretty good idea of how to teach them.

    I like asking questions, and I love it when people ask me questions. This is a huge part of the learning process. Establishing how a person uses their camera, and what they prefer to photograph, helps me know where to start teaching.

    Asking questions and looking at the photos of someone you are teaching makes the whole interaction more personal. It also makes the experience much more practical.

    Don’t only look at the best photos someone has taken. Ask to see some recent pictures they’ve made that have disappointed them. Even if you cannot see any obvious reason for the lack of success, discuss the pictures. This will often bring new ideas to life, and you can both learn something new.

    Asking a person questions about their photography shows you are interested in them. Most people will appreciate this. Once they know you are interested, they will be more receptive to what you have to teach.

    Why-Every-Photographer-Should-be-a-Teacher

    © Pansa Landwer-Johan

    Teaching is not only about what you know

    You need to become aware of what your students do and do not know. This information is gained both by asking questions and looking at their photos. Once you have this understanding, you can focus on teaching them what will be practical.

    Remember that when we hear something we’ve had no prior knowledge about, it’s more difficult to understand it. Building on what students already know and incrementally introducing new concepts is practical.

    Understanding what you have to share is important. Albert Einstein said, “If you can’t explain it simply, you don’t understand it well enough.” Teaching what you understand well, you will be received more readily by your students.

    When you think you have a good grasp of technique and the person you’re sharing it with is looking bored, this is a clear sign you are not hitting the mark. Do you really have such a good understanding of what you are teaching? How can you simplify your explanation to make it more acceptable? Or are you introducing a brand new idea too soon?

    Teaching and doing is the best way to learn photography. Having their camera in hand, a student can put into practice what you are teaching them. If, for example, you’re teaching about depth of field, this is better understood when you can see the results different camera settings produce. When photographing the same subject that your student is, you can compare your photos. This way, you’ll see if they understand the teaching.

    Why-Every-Photographer-Should-be-a-Teacher

    © Kevin Landwer-Johan

    You will reap what you sow

    Every photographer should be a teacher because as you teach, you will also learn. Giving out brings back to you many times more than what you contribute. I’ve always enjoyed sharing what I know about photography with others. It wasn’t until about six years ago that I started running regular photography workshops. Because I was teaching, my rate of learning increased incredibly.

    Teaching can push you to learn more too. Questions from students or fellow photographers will challenge you to learn more. It feels good to give a clear and understandable answer to someone’s question. Regular interaction like this will inspire you to increase your knowledge, and as a result, your photography will improve.

    You don’t need to wait until you believe you’re completely competent. Start now. Build relationships with other photographers who are at about the same level as you and find others who are beginners. Start to share your experiences together and encourage them to share with you what they know about photography. This way, you’ll all benefit from teaching, and you’ll grow together in your photography experience.

    I hope you’ve enjoyed Why Every Photographer Should be a Teacher. If you have anything else you would like to add, please do so in the comments.

    The post Why Every Photographer Should be a Teacher appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.


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  • Styled Photo Shoots with Suppliers: How, Why and What You Get

    The post Styled Photo Shoots with Suppliers: How, Why and What You Get appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.

    styled-photo-shoots

    When it comes to business, the word-of-mouth referral is still king (or queen). Obviously, your past clients will be a great source of referrals, but one of the best sources of leads for a working photographer is to get referrals from other suppliers. But what can you do to make sure that you are the first business on the lips of local suppliers? The simple answer is to work with them. The best way to do this is with styled photo shoots.

    A bride poses on the beach with props.

    This is the result of a group of talented suppliers coming together. When you see the results, any issues melt away.

    Now, as I mainly work in wedding photography, I will base this article on wedding suppliers. However, this can easily transfer over to portraits and, with a little imagination, various other fields of photography.

    How do I begin?

    Well the first stage is a portfolio – this is key to working with suppliers. They will want to know that you can deliver the images and that they aren’t wasting their time (and in many cases money) working with you.

    What do I mean by their money?

    Well, a wedding dress will generally need dry cleaning after a shoot, a florist will have to prepare flowers for the shoot that will die pretty soon afterward. Also, a venue will have to turn down bookings for the day that you hold the shoot there.

    Obviously, there are time factors involved for everyone (including you), so bear this in mind. You will tend to work after the shoot on editing, whereas others will be working in the lead up to the day.

    If you don’t have a portfolio, you can use friends and family to create your own styled photo shoots. Use a venue you have access to, and minimize your outlay in other ways too. Use supermarket flowers instead of paying for styled bouquets, for example. It’s a hard reality, but without work that you can show people, you won’t get very far.

    You have to remember that these people are professionals. Most people do not have time to risk on a styled photo shoot with somebody with no portfolio. It takes time to build, but it is not a stage you can skip.

    styled-photo-shoots-with-suppliers-dps

    This totally unplanned styled photo shoot took place at a wedding fair. Having your gear and simply asking the question can get you great results.

    The contact

    Next is the hard part for some, contact a supplier you want to work with. I generally find email works best. Politely offer to meet up (I also bribe them with cake) and discuss an idea you have for a styled photo shoot. Make sure you compliment them on their work and be charming and polite.

    Be prepared for a lot of “thanks, but no thanks” or sometimes no reply at all. By all means, follow up with a short, polite email a few days later, but that’s it. Some people don’t have time, some have people they already work with, and some simply don’t like your style.

    Grow a thick skin, accept it, and move on. Eventually, though, you will find someone willing to chat. Just be patient and try not to get down in the dumps with rejections. It’s nothing personal; it’s business.

    The initial meeting

    Congrats, you have someone interested. The next step is meeting up.

    The important thing here is to go with ideas, but be flexible. Always send a courtesy text or email the day before. A little tip is to call them when you are nearby and see if they want a coffee bringing in, or turn up with some treats. It’s just a nice thing to do, and, personally, I always remember people who give me free treats!

    You will probably be nervous, but remember, they wouldn’t have come if they didn’t want to be involved. Talk over ideas and develop an outline plan. If they agree, you are on your way! Always follow meetings up with an email so that everyone is clear about what the idea is.

    If you are starting out, a great way to expand your network is to ask the person you’re meeting if they have other suppliers they work with, people who model for them before, etc. Not only does this save you some hassle, but it expands your network as the other suppliers are being introduced to you by someone they trust.

    Reading that last sentence back, it sounds like the wedding industry equivalent of the mafia.

    styled-photo-shoots-with-suppliers-dps

    Not Exactly the Mafia, but a great group of people to work with.

    Once you have one…

    Once you have one supplier on board, it always seems to get easier. Your initial supplier may recommend some other people to involve. Alternatively, you can now email people telling them “Brand X and I are planning a styled photo shoot…”. 

    Pretty soon, things will come together and you will have a team of people on board. Now comes the hard parts.

    Co-ordination

    Having a group of people wanting to work on a project is great. But, now comes the hard part – coordinating them all!

    This can be a nightmare.

    My advice is to set up a chat on your social media of choice, where everyone can chime in.

    The most important part of the coordination is sorting out a date that works for everyone, which can be a nightmare in itself. There is no advice I can give here. You simply need to throw out dates until you can all agree.

    There can be a case for swapping out a supplier if one person cannot make a date. But it is hard to tell people who have committed that you need to look for someone else who is more available.

    Patience is key. Be prepared to keep working until you get the date.

    Plan B (and C and D)

    Problems are par for the course on styled photo shoots, no matter how amazing the final images look across social media.

    In my experience, models are most likely to drop out of shoots first, but it can be anyone at any time, for any reason. Try to plan for issues as best as you can. What will you do if it rains on the day you planned your outdoor shoot? Not a problem, you have 3 more dates locked in for such things. What happens if you turn up to your woodland location, and there is a cycle race? (This actually happened to me.) Not a problem, you have two other locations where you can shoot.

    Problems can (and will) occur. Just plan for them and be prepared to change to plan B at a moment’s notice. Usually, you can overcome these problems, but only with planning. Speaking of…

    styled-photo-shoots-with-suppliers-dps

    This wasn’t the original model. She only came on board two days before the shoot. However, you could not have asked for a better model to work with.

    Entertaining everyone’s ideas

    You need to nail down the overarching theme for the shoot quickly. The person who organizes the shoot (i.e., you) will decide on the theme and its use when initially chatting about the plan.

    Once decided, Pinterest is a godsend. Set up a shared board, then get everyone to add things to it. From here, you can all pick a favorite selection to become the final mood-board.

    Things will need to be flexible, as everyone has a slightly different vision. Just make sure that everyone feels part of this process. By being invested in the planning stages, people tend to bring their A-game to the final shoot. Make sure everyone is on board, has had their say, and you have come to the final vision together.

    Show them who’s boss (or know who is)

    Somebody has to be the boss, and as the photographer, often people will look to you for guidance or to take charge. Be firm, but accommodating. You need to be the one to smooth things out when the stylist brings something floral she really wants in the shoot. Or the makeup artist tweaks the hair just a little. People can get stressed, and as the person in charge, your job is to keep everyone relaxed and keep the shoot rolling.

    You are part teacher, part parent, part best friend to everyone on the shoot. Just be mindful of everyone’s feelings and try your best.

    Now, this may not be your strong suit. You may agree that someone else takes needs to take the lead, but you do need to make sure someone is in charge of final decisions. Otherwise, the little issues can end up in an argument, and everything will go downhill from there.

    One of the key things you need to do is get everyone’s details. You need a list of all suppliers, all their social media links, all websites, etc. because everyone who worked on the project should get be credited with any use of the images. Be sure that everyone agrees to this before they use the images.

    A model in a bridal dress looks down, showing her makeup.

    This shot was solely for the makeup artist. Making a list of shots people want before the shoot is always helpful, especially when you’re starting out.

    On the day

    Hopefully, everyone turns up at the right time and the right location. Depending on your shoot, you may have all of the suppliers stay for the whole shoot or just a few of them. Obviously, it can be nerve-racking shooting with people around (especially when starting out), but it is something you need to get used to.

    Remember, you are the expert (even if you don’t feel like it), and you will create images that everyone loves. Think positively, act positively, and believe in yourself. As a pessimistic introvert, I find this hard, but there is no alternative. Be charming, polite, helpful, and try not to let any panic show.

    Once on the shoot, you need to work smoothly. You may be panicking, and the camera may be having a meltdown. Internalize it! No matter what happens, you need to come across with an air of calm and show that everything is fine. Even if you are not the person taking charge of the shoot, as the photographer, you are the person who is in charge of the final product.

    Before you shoot, take your time and make sure you are happy with the lighting, etc. Lastly, make sure that you check the details. There is nothing worse than realizing somebody left a plastic bag in the background of the shot that you didn’t notice. Just check carefully and try not to get carried away.

    Whilst I would not advise showing every shot to those on the shoot, I would advise to show them some that you nail. Especially early on. By doing this, it shows everyone you have got some great images, and it will relax everyone, yet make them work harder. Always check with the model too. Make sure they are happy with the photos. They may notice some things that you miss. They also tend to relax when they see the first photo of the shoot they like.

    styled-photo-shoots-with-suppliers-dps

    A public location can cause problems. Just out of shot are a couple of hecklers. On the plus side, the model did get a couple of marriage proposals.

    After the event

    Get the images to everyone for picks as soon as you can after the shoot. It is tempting to put all images up and let people choose, but if you are not careful, you can end up with people all choosing different shots and leaving you with a mammoth editing job.

    Really trim the images down. I aim for around 40 maximum from a styled shoot. This way, I put out images that I love. If you add images you are not sure about, someone will choose it as a favorite, and you will regret adding it to the initial edit.

    From here, get everyone to make some selections. The key is to ask people to choose 3-5 each that they love. That way, you are not left with a massive editing job. If you tell everyone to pick as many as they wish, you will generally end up having to edit about 90% of the images you show them.

    When it comes to editing, start with the ones that multiple people have chosen, then work your way through the rest. Again, the key here is letting everyone know where you are up to.

    Try to get a few out straight away, but if life or work stops you from being able to edit the rest quickly, just let everyone know. They will be understanding. But if you don’t let them know, they will begin to wonder. Communication is key in a styled photo shoot, from the first conversation to the delivery of the last image.

    When you share images, make sure you credit everyone. Make sure you do exactly what you said you would and make sure that you check everyone is happy. That way, it leaves a good lasting impression, which is what you want.

    What do you get?

    There is a lot of time, effort, and occasional headaches involved in a styled photo shoot. Is it worth it? Yes.

    The aim of this is to spread your name. If the dress shop has an appointment the next day, they may strike up a conversation about photography. If they do, they will likely speak of you. If you do a good job, your name will be the first one that comes up whenever they discuss photographers.

    You will be seen on several companies’ social media, which again can turn into followers and customers.

    Most importantly, you are putting your name out there as someone who takes great photos, is great to work with and you are widening your network. It may not count as money in the bank straight away, but it will eventually.

    The more people who know your name, the more people will speak it. The more who speak it, the better known you become. Add in the fact that they will speak of you in high regard (if you delivered on the shoot), and you have a recipe for success.

    Have you worked on styled photo shoots with others? What was your experience? Share with us in the comments section below.

    The post Styled Photo Shoots with Suppliers: How, Why and What You Get appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Carl Spring.


    Digital Photography School

  • The best cameras for family and friends photos in 2019

    Family moments are precious, and sometimes you want to capture that time spent with friends or loved-ones in better quality than your phone can manage.

    We’ve selected a group of cameras that are easy to keep with you, and that can adapt to take photos wherever and whenever something memorable happens.


    Our pick: Sony a6100

    We’ve chosen the Sony a6100 because its autofocus system is so good at focusing on people. With very little effort, it will find people and stay focused on them, even if they look away, reacting quickly that you can capture the perfect expression. It’s a pretty small camera, which makes it easier to carry with you.

    Our review includes a couple of tips for setting up the camera, but with just a few tweaks it does a good job of making it easier to grab those memorable moments. It’s also pretty adept at shooting video clips, and can easily transfer images to your smartphone.

    The compact 16-50mm power zoom lens it’s usually bundled with is convenient, though not the sharpest kit lens out there, but there are a number of comparatively affordable single focal length lenses available which improve the camera’s low-light performance and let you blur the background of your images.


    While the Sony a6100 was our winner, there are several other cameras well-suited for photographing family and friends that are also worth consideration. We’ve listed them all out below with detailed breakdowns of their features and performance:

    • Our pick: Sony a6100

    Also available:

    • Canon EOS M50
    • Canon PowerShot G5 X II
    • Fujifilm X-A7*
    • Olympus OM-D E-M10 III
    • Panasonic Lumix DC-GX9
    • Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 VII

    * This camera has not been fully reviewed and is therefore not yet eligible for an award.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)