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  • Sony adds Real-Time Animal Eye AF to the RX10 IV via firmware update

    Sony, today, released a firmware update for its RX10 IV camera that gives it Real-Time Animal Eye AF and improves the overall stability of the camera.

    Firmware version 2.00 adds the same functionality we’ve seen Sony add to a number of its other mirrorless cameras. As with the other cameras, the update makes it possible to use Sony’s AI-powered eye-tracking feature on certain animals. Sony doesn’t specifically say what animals the functionality is limited to, but does note in the firmware changelog that ‘Eye detection may not be possible depending on the environment, animal type or the movement of the animal.’

    Below is a brief explainer video of the feature shared by Sony on its YouTube channel:

    Firmware version 2.00 for the RX10 IV is available to download for macOS and Windows computers on Sony’s RX10 IV support page.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released

    The post News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

    News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released

    ACDSee has just released its latest post-processing software, Photo Studio Ultimate 2020. ACDSee’s software is meant to pose a challenge to some of the big-name programs out there, most notably Lightroom and Photoshop, though Ultimate 2020 is somewhat unique in that it aims to take on both programs at once.

    While Adobe’s Lightroom plus Photoshop package has remained a favorite of photographers over the past few years, programs like ACDSee continue to give them a run for their money. Especially when you can do with a single program that Lightroom and Photoshop can only do in conjunction.

    ACDSee Ultimate 2020 isn’t just a full-fledged photo editor (like Photoshop), nor does it confine itself to digital asset management with moderate processing capabilities (like Lightroom). Instead, it offers both file management and advanced, layer-based editing for those photographers who’d like to keep their workflow all in one place.

    ACDSee Ultimate 2020 promises a host of new and upgraded features in order to improve both organization and editing workflows, including:

    • Enhanced face detection features, which allow you to easily find photos of specific people within the ACDSee database
    • An HDR function that allows you to combine several exposures to create one high-quality HDR image
    • Focus stacking capabilities, in order to produce a deep depth of field image out of several photos focused at different distances
    • And a Blended Clone tool, which allows you to quickly and efficiently remove distracting areas from your photos for a seamless result

    ACDSee Ultimate 2020 also offers RAW support for a slew of additional cameras, including Sony, Panasonic, Fujifilm, Hasselblad, and Canon bodies.

    The most unfortunate thing about ACDSee Ultimate 2020 is that it’s only available for Windows. But if you’re already a PC user, there’s a lot to love about this program. You can download a copy of ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 for $ 150 USD, or for $ 69 per year as part of a subscription program.

    Now I’d like to know your thoughts:

    Are you planning on purchasing ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020? If not, what is your favorite photo editor, and why? Do you think that single programs like ACDSee will ever be able to take the reigns from Lightroom and Photoshop?

    The post News: ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 Released appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.


    Digital Photography School

  • Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount

    The post Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.

    sigma-35mm-f1-2-art-lens-review

    Considering the amount of articles I’ve written about shallow depth of field, it is safe to say that anything wider than f/1.8 is my sweet spot. However, Sony has found itself severely lacking in my favorite fast aperture: f/1.2. Well, my friends, Sigma has come to save the day with the brand new Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E Mount! It’s the fastest autofocus lens available for Sony mirrorless cameras to date.

    I had the pleasure of taking this lens out for a spin on my Sony A7r IV and Sony A7r III and making all of my creamy bokeh dreams come true.

    Lens build

    Sigma-35mm-f1.2-ART-lens-review

    Upon first glance, this lens is large and heavy. Many people wouldn’t realize this is a wide-angle 35mm focal length. The weight is a bit daunting when you use a mirrorless system, especially since one of the big selling points of mirrorless is the small size of the camera. However, the benefit of mirrorless is that all you’re carrying is the weight of the lens, which I don’t mind.

    The weight of the Sigma 35mm f/1.2 ART lens is very worthwhile. The following are the reasons why.

    In true ART fashion, the lens is solid, sturdy, and what I’d consider shock-resistant. Give it a bump, you’ll see (no, please don’t do that intentionally!). The lens features a dust and splash-proof structure with additional water and oil-repellent coating on the frontmost surface of the lens. I can personally attest to these, having already taken this optic out in some dire conditions. I put lenses through the wringer, and if they can’t survive me, they aren’t a worthy build!

    Also, akin to the ART line is the beautiful glass that is vibrant, sharp, clear, and perfect. It’s very reminiscent of the Canon L-series glass, which I was obsessed with, and was thrilled to find similar in the Sigma ART line.

    Lens features

    Sigma-35mm-f1.2-ART-lens-review

    If you’re a native Sony G-Master user who picks up the Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART lens for the first time, you’ll likely see a familiar feature – an aperture ring. This smooth and easy to use manual adjustment of the aperture is quite a useful feature (especially for those who dabble in video and cinema).

    Additionally, what’s really interesting about this lens is the ability to click/de-click the aperture ring, allowing complete silence or clicks to let you know you have turned the ring.

    The inclusion of the AFL button adds to the lens’s functionality as you can assign it to various operations.

    Lens communication

    Sigma-35mm-f1.2-ART-lens-review

    You don’t invest thousands of dollars on a camera like the Sony Alpha to not use those features, yes? So why would you grab a lens that isn’t compatible? You just don’t. As such, my deal breaker is whether or not the Sigma 35mm f/1.2 ART lens can speak the Alpha’s native tongue (being a non-Sony-brand lens).

    Well, the answer is one that I certainly hoped for: The Sigma is fluent in Sony speak!

    As one of the first ART lenses designed exclusively with mirrorless in mind, it’s communication with the popular Sony mirrorless system is key (considering the lens only comes in Sony E mount and L mount). All autofocus features (including eye-tracking [human and animal] and AI autofocus) translate brilliantly between the camera body and optics.

    Autofocus

    Sigma-35mm-f1.2-ART-lens-review

    First of all, the autofocus of the Sony Alpha 7r IV and 7r III are just fantastic. Paired with this lens that is great at communicating with the camera, and you have a recipe for winning. My photo sessions have been so much smoother as a result.

    Autofocus has been fast, accurate, and a dream. I have had a hard time putting this lens down, and can always find at least one excuse to bring it along for the ride.

    I’ve gone as far as to shoot canine sports with it, even though a focal length of 35mm requires me to get closer to my subject than I’d usually like. However, it’s well worth it for that creamy bokeh, because canine agility fields tend to be quite cluttered with obstacles (which makes for a busy frame without the bokeh).

    Whether your subject is running at you, away from you, or to the side, there is no discrepancy in autofocus.

    Sharpness

    Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount

    Edge to edge sharpness doesn’t even begin to describe how crystal clear the Sigma 35mm f/1.2 ART lens is. If I closed my eyes, I’d swear I was shooting with Canon L glass. The ART glass has been truly tremendous, especially in recent lens releases.

    I found that my subject was just as sharp in the center point as any corners. This is great for those that want to take advantage of the 35mm focal length width and do some off-center frames.

    The full-frame capability gives it a further wow factor. When attached to my Sony A7r IV – a 60+ megapixel camera – the images viewed on a massive print-calibrated 4k screen equals some jaw-dropping moments. Pairing tack sharpness with this lens’s visual sharpness results in an image that would make even the ultimate pixel peepers happy. From my own use, I’d say peak sharpness was around f/2.0 – f/2.8.

    What you see is what you get, as the sharpness translated to prints beautifully.

    Bokeh

    Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount

    You don’t buy an f1.2 lens not to use it at its widest aperture! It took a bit of effort on my part to ever take it off f/1.2.

    The bokeh is creamy, beautiful, and completely effortless. The subject separation is superb, and the client’s response to these magical images is pure bliss. I loved using this lens with cluttered backgrounds as the distraction smoothed away. Even when the aperture is widened to f/2.8, the bokeh continues to be smooth and satisfying.

    There is some slight vignetting at the corners, but I quite enjoy this look and add a bit more of it in post-production. Those photographers that are miffed by vignetting may not be too thrilled. However, the 35mm wide focal length does allow for a wee bit of cropping so you can remedy that situation with some corner snips.

    The bokeh balls produced with the Sigma 35mm f1.2 lens are very smooth and lovely. You won’t find yourself trapped with no onion-ring bokeh in the editing room, as seen in many other types of similar lenses.

    Chromatic aberration

    Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount

    Much to my positive surprise, I have not experienced any chromatic aberration or fringing with this lens – even on extremely contrasting subjects. This tends to be a common problem with very wide apertures. Whatever magic Sigma did to this particular lens clearly works because I have yet to encounter fringing.

    With that said, I’m not saying there isn’t going to be fringing in some peculiar situations, but just that I have not yet personally encountered it. I have encountered fringing immediately with several f/1.4 and f/1.8 lenses from Sony (even the G-Master), unfortunately.

    Pros

    Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount

    • Fast and beautiful f/1.2 wide aperture.
    • Full-frame lens.
    • Physical aperture ring with click/de-click switch.
    • Excellent communication between Sony E-mount cameras and this Sigma lens.
    • Beautiful creamy bokeh with no onion-ring issues.
    • Fast autofocus and vibrant output.
    • Little to no chromatic aberration.
    • Price is still very competitive, despite being in the four-digit range.

    Cons

    Sigma-35mm-f1.2-ART-lens-review

    • Heavy, bulky, and large for a 35mm lens (especially on a mirrorless system).
    • Only available in Sony E-Mount and in Sigma/Leica/Panasonic L-Mount (the lens is designed exclusively for mirrorless systems. Some may see this as a con if they don’t own a mirrorless system).

    Conclusion

    Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount

    Sigma 35mm f/1.2 Art Lens Review: Conclusion

    My final thought is simple: “this lens will be permanently attached to one of my mirrorless cameras.” The investment is well worth the amount of use you’ll likely get out of this lens, even if you don’t shoot at extremely wide apertures such as f/1.2. I have always found it more worthwhile to invest in lenses that grant you more options and versatility rather than less.

    The Sigma 35mm f/1.2 Art Lens can easily become a staple of any kit, with an incredibly vast array of uses from portraits, pets, events, fine art, and everything in between. With the popularity of prime lenses, this one is definitely a top contender.

    Have you used the Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens? Share your thoughts with us in the comments below!

    The post Review: Sigma 35mm f1.2 ART Lens for Sony E-Mount appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.


    Digital Photography School

  • Fujifilm confirms release date for Neopan 100 ACROS II emulsion for 35mm, 120 formats

    In April 2018, Fujifilm announced it was discontinuing its much-loved Acros 100 film stock. Now, more than a year later, Fujifilm has announced that its new Neopan 100 ACROS II film, first teased in June of this year, will start shipping in Japan on November 22, 2019 in 35mm and 120 formats.

    According to Fujifilm, the newly developed Neopan 100 ACROS emulsion features the company’s ‘Super Fine particle technology,’ which better retains highlight gradation and improves overall sharpness that ‘emphasizes the contour of the subject.’

    Fujifilm hasn’t shared any pricing information, but as noted by Emulsive, Rakuten Japan has both the 35mm and 120 versions listed for 1,045 Japanese yen, which equates to roughly $ 9.50 a roll.

    Press Release (machine-translated):

    Black and white film “Neopan 100 ACROS (Across) II

    Fujifilm Co., Ltd. (President: Kenji Sukeno) realizes ultra-high image quality with world-class graininess and three-dimensional gradation reproduction, and is suitable for shooting a wide range of fields, and is suitable for photographing a wide range of fields, and is suitable for photography in a wide range of fields, and is used by “Neopan 100 ACROSII” (hereinafter referred to as “Acros II”). will be released in Japan on November 22, 2019. “Across II” will be available in two types: 35mm size and browny size.

    The Neopan 100 ACROSII, which will be released this time, uses our unique technologies, including “Super Fine-Particle Technology” As a black and white film with sensitivity ISO100, we have achieved a three-dimensional gradation reproduction that can clearly express the world’s highest level of graininess and the tint of the subject, and excellent sharpness. By precisely controlling the structure of the silver halide to form an image by capturing light and making it highly sensitive, and by efficiently placing the photosensitive particles of different sizes in the light receiving layer of the film […] It is possible to describe finely down to the details of the texture. We respond to the needs of photography in a wide range of fields, from landscape and mountain photography, portraits, product photography, architectural photography, to astronomical and night view photography of long exposure photography.

    In the future, we plan to hold events and photo exhibitions where you can experience the charm of “Across II” where you can enjoy deep and quaint expressions. We will also consider overseas sales.

    As a leading company in the imaging field, Fujifilm will continue to provide better products and services in response to diversifying customer needs in a wide range of fields, from analog to digital. The power and splendor of a single photograph will be conveyed.

    A technology that contributes to high print quality by precisely controlling the size and composition of silver halide particles contained in photographic films, which achieves both sensitivity and excellent graininess.

    A layer that is photosensitive to the light entered from the lens during shooting and forms a black-and-white silver image during the development process.

    Book

    1. Product Name
    Neopan 100 ACROSII
    35mm size (36 shots) / Brownie size (12 shots)
    2. Release Date
    November 22, 2019
    3. Price
    Open price

    Features of “Neopan 100 ACROSII”

    • By adopting our proprietary “Super Fine-Particle Technology”, we have achieved the world’s highest level of graininess as a black and white film with sensitivity ISO100.
    • Compared to our conventional product “Neopan 100 ACROS”, the gradation of the highlight part is designed with a sharp, three-dimensional gradation reproduction is possible.
    • The world’s highest level of sharpness enables the contours of the subject to be described.

    History of the release

    We ended sales of black and white film in autumn 2018 due to a decrease in demand for black and white film and difficulty in obtaining raw materials that are essential for production. However, many people who like photography with the unique texture of black and white film have received many voices that want us to continue selling black and white film, so we have been considering re-opening sales from all angles. In addition, we have been able to develop and sell the black and white film “Across II” through research on alternatives to raw materials that have become difficult to obtain and a drastic review of the manufacturing process tailored to new raw materials.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Photographer David Burnett with his large-format, wooden camera was the real hero of today’s impeachment hearings

    Photographer David Burnett (L), pictured in the press pack at today’s first public session of the ongoing impeachment hearings.

    As diplomat William Taylor and State Department official George Kent took their seats in the House today to begin their public testimony, their entry was heralded by a noisy fluttering sound, as attendant photographers shot off hundreds of continuous frames on their Canon and Nikon DSLRs. But one man stood alone, among the fray: David Burnett, veteran, multi award-winning photographer, co-founder of ContactPressImages and large format film enthusiast.

    The camera is an ‘Aero Liberator’ – Made by John Minnicks, the Liberator is a custom-made camera, which takes 4 x 5 plates. Judging by today’s footage of David using it, continuous shooting speed is limited to about one frame every five or six seconds.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Fake it to Make it – Creating Convincing Photo Composites

    The post Fake it to Make it – Creating Convincing Photo Composites appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

    creating-convincing-photo-composites

    Photo composites – it used to be said that “the camera never lies.”  We used terms like “photographic evidence,” and “photographic memory.” We believed whatever cameras captured were literal representations of fact depicting exactly what you would have observed had you been a witness to the scene.

    Then, as editing techniques improved, photographers learned ways to enhance and even alter images.

    Well before the days of digital photography, dodging, burning, airbrushing, layering of negatives, hand-painting, and a host of other “analog methods” were used by skilled photographers seeking to enhance and manipulate their images.  Sometimes this was in the name of art, other times to fool the viewer.

    creating-convincing-photo-composites

    “Father McKenzie wiping the dirt from his hands as he walks from the grave.” Assignment – depict a Beatles song title or lyric. I used a photo of a Vermont graveyard, made a shot of myself in the backyard, and with some creative compositing depicted the lyric from “Eleanor Rigby.”

    Enter the world of digital photography and desktop editing programs.

    It wasn’t long before we used the term “Photoshop” not only as a noun as the tradename of an editing program but as a verb describing the manipulation of an image using that tool.  When we now say an image has been “Photoshopped,” we are saying it has been digitally altered.  The camera might not lie, but the photographer can if they choose.

    creating-convincing-photo-composites

    It took a while to clone out all the footprints from this shot of Bandon Beach, Oregon.

    The ethics of photo alteration

    So, is altering your image a bad thing? Unethical?

    I’d say that depends on your intent and the context in which you’re using the image. We’ve all heard the term “fake news.” If you are a photojournalist whose job it is to depict a scene truthfully, then the rest of this article is not for you. Move along… “creative photo editing” is totally taboo for you. Enough said.

    For the rest of us, is photo manipulation acceptable? How much? What kind? Under what circumstances?

    Let’s come back to those questions a little later after we’ve looked at some kinds of photo “enhancements.”

    Fake it to Make it - Creating Convincing Photo Composites

    creating-convincing-photo-composites

    A balloon over Boise, Idaho landmarks. One is composited the other a straight shot. Can you spot the fake?

    Bad magic

    Have you ever had the misfortunate of watching a really bad magic show, the kind where the unskilled magician clearly doesn’t know his craft and the illusions are obvious? You know, without question, there really was something up his sleeve? Bad photo manipulation is like bad magic; neither should be performed for an audience.

    If your techniques aren’t convincing, if the substituted sky doesn’t look right for the scene or the person composited into the group shot looks like you cut him out and pasted him onto the photo, you might not be ready to perform your photo magic. Learn how to do the “trick.” Practice, practice some more and show the result to a single critic. When you finally pass muster, only then show your creation to the masses.

    SOOC?

    Most of us do at least some standard photo editing. I always smile at those photographers who say with pride their images are “Straight-Out-Of-Camera” (SOOC), unedited. That they always “get it right in the camera.” Really?

    Unless you’re making only .jpg images (where the camera itself is doing some editing using the built-in .jpg algorithm), you have a Raw image that needs at least basic editing even to be presentable.

    Sure, make the best exposure you can in the camera, frame your shot so no cropping will be needed. Pick a white balance appropriate for the scene – those are all good habits. But having to edit your shot to bring out its best? – That’s only logical, IMHO.

    creating-convincing-photo-composites

    I had nice shots of a storm over a wheatfield and a good windmill silhouette. Creative photo composite at work.

    Creative photo composites

    Now we get to what is clearly photo manipulation, the creation of an image from multiple pieces. This is the assembling of a final photo composite from separate shots carefully crafted to make something better than you could make with a single exposure.

    Do it well, and you can make scenes that depict your creative vision. Create things of beauty that never were but should have been; landscapes with great clouds, gorgeous sunsets, or maybe portraits done in fields of flowers. Do it well, and people will marvel over your creation, unaware of your magic. Do it poorly, however, and you’ll wind up with a Frankenstein monster, a badly-stitched horror assembled from unmatched pieces and parts.

    So let’s look at some things to consider when creating convincing photo composites.

    Image: I think the scale looks correct here, but a pilot might say a jet wouldn’t come in like...

    I think the scale looks correct here, but a pilot might say a jet wouldn’t come in like this on final approach. Both planes are composited into the sunset shot.

    Light and shadow

    Let’s use an example where we might add a person to a scene they were not originally in.

    You have the image of the scene, and you have a separate image of the person. The first question to ask yourself is, does the light direction match? Look at where the light and shadows fall in both images. If the light in the person image is coming from the left, the light in the background scene must come from the left too. Fail to check this, and even the untrained observer will look at your photo composite image and know something isn’t right, even if they can’t put their finger on it.

    Sometimes you can flip the person or the background image so the light direction matches; it depends on the scenes you’re working with. Other times you’ll have to look for a different background with a better match.

    creating-convincing-photo-composites

    The scale may not be correct, but creative compositing is a new fun way to play with your grandson.Pay close attention to the direction and quality of shadows. Compositing images where the light in one piece is harsh with hard shadows and the other where the light is brighter, darker, softer, or in some other way different will be a giveaway of something fishy.

    Sometimes you might have to add a shadow manually. Say you’re adding an image of a car to another image of a road. Consider where the shadow of the car would fall relative to the light in the scene. Then blend in some shadows if necessary to make a more convincing photo composite.

    Angle

    The camera angle and focal length of the lenses used to make the separate shots should match as closely as possible if you want to make convincing photo composites.

    A high or low angle background with a differing angle composite overlay isn’t going to look right. This even applies to sky substitutions.

    If you want to make photo composites of a landscape and change out the sky for perhaps one that has a nice sunset or better clouds, take a look at the angle of both shots and the focal length of the lenses used.

    You’ll be able to tell if something just doesn’t look right.

    creating-convincing-photo-composites

    A gray rainy day at the Portland Head Lighthouse in Maine. The lighthouse needed a light beam, no? Easy to add one. Convincing? You tell me.

    Color

    Sometimes this can be the toughest one in getting good convincing photo composites. Images at different times in different locations are almost guaranteed to have slightly different white balances. Mix a cooler piece into a warmer scene, one where the tint is slightly different, or other subtle differences exist, and once again, your viewer will detect that card up your sleeve.

    See if you can set a white balance in Lightroom for your base image and then, using the Sync feature, apply that same white balance to your inserted image. Then take both into Photoshop for your compositing work.

    Sometimes the best option for avoiding a fight with color differences is to avoid color altogether and go monochrome with your image. A monochrome composite is far easier to pull off than a color one. It’s a good place for beginning “photo magicians” to start.

    Image: The moon was in the original shot, but tiny. I enlarged it a bit, but not so much as to be un...

    The moon was in the original shot, but tiny. I enlarged it a bit, but not so much as to be unbelievable.

    Scale

    Pay attention to match the relative size of images in your photo composites. Unless you’re trying to make the model in your shot look like a fairy on that forest log, matching size counts.

    The student who missed the group shot of his class, but you later composite him in, probably won’t appreciate it if you make him look like he has a giant head relative to the others in the shot.

    Whatever multiple pieces you use to make your image, consider how their relative sizes match.

    Image: Fake moon composited in? Not this time. This was a telephoto shot which made the already larg...

    Fake moon composited in? Not this time. This was a telephoto shot which made the already large full moon look even bigger.

    Anything funny here?

    After working to create a convincing photo composite, it can be hard to be objective. You’ve worked hard to get it just right but sometimes may have misgivings about whether everything looks natural.

    Or it could be the other way; you’re convinced you’ve created the perfect composite, but have overlooked what to someone else is obvious fakery. This is the time to bring in someone else, someone who has no idea what you’ve been working on, to look at your creation.

    Simply ask, “How’s this look?”

    Don’t immediately tip them that you did something to the image – see if they detect anything. If they don’t, drill a little deeper.

    “See anything unusual?” Pay attention to their answers.

    If this is someone who knows your skills, they may suspect you switched out the sky, put that cute bunny in the forest scene, or digitally shaved some pounds from the model. However, even then, they should be able to tell you if your creation is convincing.

    Because you can…

    The second part of that saying, “…doesn’t always mean you should.”  Or as Uncle Ben told Peter Parker, (aka Spiderman), “With great power comes great responsibility.”

    With practice, you may become highly skilled at photo composites. Alter a photo, replace the sky, make it jaw-droppingly beautiful, and no one thinks twice. Even fellow photographers marvel over the sunsets you always seem to catch, the great light, the pristine beaches with no footprints, litter, or people. They chalk up your beautiful images to stellar photo skills, hard work, sacrifice, and a healthy dose of good luck. They don’t realize you made your own luck, as well as that incredible ocean sunrise, with creative photo compositing.

    Until one day, the truth comes out…

    You’re just an average photographer but a great Photoshop artist.

    One guy who understands where to draw the line is noted landscape photographer, Nick Page. I once had a chance to interview Nick on the subject of swapping skies in landscape photography. In addition to being an exceptional landscape photographer, Nick is also a gifted editor. If anyone could fool you with a creative composite, Nick could do so easily.

    He could, but he doesn’t.

    Image: He could, but he doesn’t. His amazing photos are the real deal. Photo by/courtesy of Ni...

    He could, but he doesn’t. His amazing photos are the real deal. Photo by/courtesy of Nick Page.

    “With my Landscape photography, I have drawn the line in the sand, (in my head anyway), that I will not composite or swap skies.  For me this comes down to two things,” Nick said.

    “My favorite part of landscape photography is trying to chase the light, and have that great light line up with a great location.  This takes tons of planning and effort, and I love that aspect of photography.  If I were to start dropping skies into my landscape photos, I would be robbing myself of the joy of “the Chase.”

    And the second thing?  “I want people to know and believe the photos I take are real,” said Nick. “So many of the photographers I follow, I can’t always trust that amazing light they always have in their photos.  Yes, it is an art, but I really enjoy the extra effort of trying to get it for real, and I want people to know and trust that I put in that extra effort.”

    Image: Creative photo compositing is a fun way to help tell the story.

    Creative photo compositing is a fun way to help tell the story.

    As easy as a click – the rise of the robots

    We’re headed for a major change in photo editing as we enter the dawn of the Artificial Intelligence (AI) age. For some time now, computers have been able to “recognize” images. Tell Google Photos to search the entire internet for photos of even something improbable, green dogs, and it almost instantly finds many. This is not a keyword search; it “recognizes” the image of a dog and the color green and finds the photos.

    Facial recognition? Lightroom can do that.

    We already see better and better implementations of AI photo editing tools too. How long will it be before an AI editing program can do a better job than you? Maybe that day is almost here.

    Fake it to Make it - Creating Convincing Photo Composites

    Image: Sky substitution. Soon you’ll do this with one click with the Luminar 4 Sky Replacement...

    Sky substitution. Soon you’ll do this with one click with the Luminar 4 Sky Replacement AI tool.

    Skylum Software recently announced its new Luminar 4 editing software with “AI Sky Replacement.”  Not only can it replace the sky in a photo, but it also does it with no selections, layers, or masking.  It claims to handle even detailed images such as fine tree branches extending into the sky. And, it goes even a step further, using the colors of the replacement sky to better match the scene.

    Mixed emotions

    I must confess, I have mixed emotions about software editing tools that better the skills I’ve learned after hundreds of hours slaving over a hot computer [Me too – Editor]. Or that don’t require I earn that great shot by setting the alarm for 4:30, shivering in the pre-dawn cold, and hoping the clouds and color are just right only to be disappointed. One-click to a beautiful shot?

    Could I, in good conscience, enter a contest with such a shot and accept an award for “my” image? The one made with artificial intelligence instead of just my intelligence and skills?

    Image: The Yellowstone Bison endure harsh winter conditions. Think this one was originally a part of...

    The Yellowstone Bison endure harsh winter conditions. Think this one was originally a part of this shot? You’ve been “buffaloed.” Added with compositing.

    Photography and “real” art

    I have to think that when photography first entered the scene, traditional artists, painters, sketch artists and those who created their art from scratch by hand had to scoff. Photographers had no artistic skills, and they weren’t “real artists.”

    Later, we transitioned from purely mechanical cameras to automatic ones and from film to digital. Autofocus? Auto exposure settings? Auto white balance? Pshaw!

    How about processing negatives and film in chemical baths, working with negatives and enlargers, dodging and burning with real tools and real photographic paper? Do you say you do that all now in a computer with a few clicks of a mouse? That if you make a mistake, you can simply undo it and not have to throw away your work and start all over?

    You call yourself a “real photographer?”

    Image: Experiencing the 8/21/17 total eclipse was amazing. I used creative photo compositing to sequ...

    Experiencing the 8/21/17 total eclipse was amazing. I used creative photo compositing to sequence my shots for this image.

    Image: I made a shot of the forest near Crouch, Idaho the day before the eclipse. The next day I cap...

    I made a shot of the forest near Crouch, Idaho the day before the eclipse. The next day I capture the “diamond ring” image of the eclipse. It did look like this, but I’m not sure I could have captured this in one shot. Creative photo compositing.

    Conclusion

    You get the point.  As technology marches on our tools change, we find easier ways of doing things and more people are able to become involved, not having to spend years learning complex skills.  More people can, with some technological assistance, produce better images.

    One last thing to remember however, the human touch, the “soul” of your photography, your personal vision will never be replaced by “artificial” intelligence.  Wise photographers still appreciate the special skills of artists who create beautiful images by hand.  Wise digital photographers still appreciate the skills of analog film photographers who created great photos with very basic equipment.  And, perhaps one day, you and I will appreciate the skills of a robot photographer and an AI editor.  Or maybe not.

     

     

     

    The post Fake it to Make it – Creating Convincing Photo Composites appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.


    Digital Photography School

  • You will soon be able to import into Lightroom on iOS directly from external storage

    Adobe has given the public a new sneak peek at a future update for Lightroom on iOS that will simplify the process of importing images into the app. As demonstrated in the above video, Adobe will enable users to directly import images from card readers into Lightroom on iOS, after which point the content is uploaded to the cloud and added to the app’s photo library.

    The ‘seamless importing experience’ will arrive in a future Lightroom update starting with iOS 13.2, according to Adobe’s Tom Hogarty. The company doesn’t provide an exact release date for this update, but says that it will arrive ‘soon.’

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • Fujifilm announces upcoming firmware updates for X-T3, X-T30 and other models

    Fujifilm has announced plans to release future firmware updates for its X-T3 mirrorless camera. The first update to version 3.10 will arrive in mid-December, according to a release from the company published on Wednesday.

    The update scheduled for release in mid-December will bring ‘controls for video recording from Gimbal / Drone via USB communications,’ according to Fujifilm, meaning X-T3 owners will be able to use their camera with a drone and gimbal setup that supports the function. This same functionality will also be released for the X-T30 and other models not specified at this time.

    The firmware version 3.20 update is scheduled for release in January 2020 and will bring ‘enhanced autofocus’ with better eye AF frame tracking and face-detection performance, as well as improved autofocus when it comes to foreground subjects. Additionally, versiohn 3.20 will add support for saving up to 9,999 images in each folder on the SD card, a dramatic increase from the current 999 limit.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

  • How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo

    The post How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

     

    how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

    The best photography comes from having a plan. That’s especially the case when it comes to landscape photography. In this article, you’ll learn the practical steps you can take ahead of time so you can get the best possible results. Follow these steps to plan the perfect landscape photo, and you’ll get amazing results every time.

    how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

    This photo needs the seasonal salt marsh plants to give it that extra punch.

    Know where the perfect landscape photo is

    The first step is finding a great location to photograph. If that’s in your local area, you’ll almost certainly know where the local money shots are. What if you’re traveling to somewhere new, though? Well, there are several things you can do before you visit, which will give you a head start. It is good planning to make a list of photos you wish to take ahead of time. To do that, look to do the following:

    • Choose a location – The first step is going to be choosing a location. Keep this to a defined area like one city, or a national park. If the country is small like perhaps Iceland, you can look to that as your location.
    • Famous landmarks – Now within that location, start looking for the standout places that people visit, not just for photography, but because they’re amazing. Make a list of these places, and choose which ones you would like to photograph.
    • Other photos – Now it’s time to search online for inspiration from other photographers. This may lead you to replicate one of these photos. If you’re concerned about this then avoid this step, and go to the location with a clear mind about how you will take your photo. Sites like 500px, Instagram and Flickr can be good resources for this step.
    Image: If the location is far from where you live, ask people who have visited there before for thei...

    If the location is far from where you live, ask people who have visited there before for their advice.

    Visit the location ahead of time

    Where possible the next step for you to plan the perfect landscape photo is to visit the location before you photograph it. There are three possible ways you can go about doing this. Each has its drawbacks, but if you can, then this step will help a lot.

    • Day trip – If your location is nearby, you could make a day trip without your camera. This is aimed at getting you that vital on-the-ground information.
    • Arrive early – A lot of landscape photos are sunsets. Arrive several hours before sunset to thoroughly explore the area for the best location to get a good composition. Taking a sunrise photo? Then arrive the evening before so you can see the location while it’s still light ahead of your photo the next day.
    • Online maps – Should the location be an airplane ride away, the only way of visiting the location early is online. While you won’t get all the information, using services like Google maps street view can allow you to explore a location remotely ahead of time.
    Image: This photo is of the new skyscraper in Bangkok, the Mahanakhon.

    This photo is of the new skyscraper in Bangkok, the Mahanakhon.

    Sunrise or sunset?

    A lot of landscape photos will be either sunrise or sunset locations. Make sure you know where these are ahead of time.

    You’ll need to work out your route from where you’re staying to these locations. You also need to arrive around one hour before sunrise or sunset happens. With sunset or sunrise skies comes big differences in the dynamic range. Make sure you’re familiar with techniques like bracketing and digital blending before you go out to take these photos.

    Finally, don’t always photograph towards the sun, turn around and look for the golden light and see if that makes a good photo as well.

    Image: One of my friends is a Balloonist who has, on occasion, taken me for a balloon ride.

    One of my friends is a Balloonist who has, on occasion, taken me for a balloon ride.

    Contact a fixer to plan the perfect landscape photo

    There are lots of situations in photography where you will need a fixer. A fixer is someone who helps you facilitate the photograph you want to take. This fixer could take several forms depending on the situation or location you want to photograph. These are a few examples of fixers that you could need to deal with.

    • Security guard – A lot of cityscape photos are taken from the rooftop of tall buildings. Contacting the security of that building to ask for permission ahead of time is a good idea.
    • Restaurant or bar manager – There are some restaurants that have amazing viewpoints. Some of these will allow you to photograph from their premises. Once again, you need to contact them ahead of time to arrange this.
    • Photographer – Contacting local photographers to ask them for information is a great idea. If you’re lucky enough to find someone who will show you the local places to photograph, be sure to return the favor when you have the chance.
    • Tourist company – In some cases, joining a tour can get you to a location you want to photograph but otherwise could not reach. For example, if you want to take an aerial photo of a location, one solution is booking a balloon or helicopter ride! Remember, not everywhere will allow you to fly a drone.
    how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

    This photo required a longer focal length to compress the scene.

    Bring the right equipment

    Make sure you have the right equipment with you to get the photo you want. The list below is a suggested packing list for landscape photographers. The location you’re photographing from will have a big bearing on which items from the list below you actually take.

    • Tripod – A tripod is essential for all landscape photographers, whatever the conditions. Getting sharp images is important, and you’ll get this when using a tripod.
    • Camera body – The newest camera body may not be as important for daytime landscapes, but if you’re photographing the Milkyway, having a new camera body is invaluable.
    • Lens – If you have researched your location properly, you’ll know whether the primary photo you intend to take requires a wide-angle or telephoto focal length. There is nothing worse than getting a location and realizing your lens doesn’t allow you to compose the photo the way you wish.
    • Remote trigger – A remote trigger or perhaps a cable release will mean you don’t need to touch the camera on the tripod. This will remove the chance of camera shake.
    • Filters – These are always worth packing as they take up minimal space. Neutral density filters are great for long exposure work, and graduated neutral density filters are also nice to have. A circular polarizing filter should be packed to give your photo more punch. Looking for a little creativity? How about packing an infra-red filter?
    • Other equipment – Looking to make a landscape that’s a little different? A lensball allows you to capture the scene in front of you in a unique way. It’s like having an external lens. How about light painting? You’ll need to bring things like a torch or an LED light stick for this.
    Image: Filters are a vital piece of equipment for all landscape photographers.

    Filters are a vital piece of equipment for all landscape photographers.

    Know the local conditions ahead of time

    Finally, make sure you’re checking the weather ahead of time. If your schedule is flexible enough, check the 5-day forecast and choose a day that works best for the sky. The long-range forecast can’t always be relied on though, so also be prepared to drop everything on the day if the right conditions develop for your photo.

    Weather

    Of course, this means using a reliable weather service or app on your phone. There are several of these out there. The recommended ones are windy.com and wunderground.com. These sites give good forecasts, though it’s worth checking them as you get nearer the intended day of your photo as they are updating their information. Then on the day itself, you can check their satellite images for up-to-the-minute information. These satellite images give information on current positions of clouds or any rain.

    The sun

    Another factor to consider is the sun, and that’s not whether it’s a sunny day or not. The sun’s position in the sky changes throughout the year. That means you can plan your trip to coincide with when the sun will be in the best position in the sky for your photo. To get this information use suncalc.org or the photopills app for your smartphone.

    how-to-plan-the-perfect-landscape-photo

    Seasonal changes to the landscape can make a dramatic difference as well. Plan for when there will be spring or fall foliage you can make use of. In the winter, the snow can also be pretty.

    Tide times

    Those of you doing any photography along the coast will need to know the tide times. The landscape scene along a coast can change dramatically depending on whether it’s high or low tide. Again, tide times change throughout the year, so you should be able to plan your trip so that the level of the tide is perfect for your photo.

    It’s also important to know from a safety perspective. If you can only access your location at low tide, you need to know how long you can safely photograph from that low tide position.

    How do you plan the perfect landscape photo?

    Having read this article, you’ll have a better feel for how to plan your landscape photo.

    Which of the above steps will you put into your planning phase? Are there things you do when you plan your landscape photos that were not included here?

    We’d love you hear your thoughts and ideas in the comments section of this article. Then, once you have taken your landscape photo, you can share it in the comments section.

    So now it’s time to start planning, and taking better landscape photos!

     

     

    The post How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.


    Digital Photography School

  • The Pixel 4 can’t beat a compact camera, but that doesn’t matter

    With its newly improved Super Resolution Zoom, the Pixel 4 makes a case for itself as a replacement for a compact camera with a 4-6x zoom range. The kind you might bring on vacation – something with a sensor that’s a little bigger and a modest zoom that won’t be too cumbersome while you explore your destination.

    I took the Pixel 4 as my primary camera on a recent trip, but just to satisfy my curiosity, packed the Canon PowerShot G5 X Mark II alongside it. The Pixel 4 fell short in a couple of ways, but overall it did the job well enough that I wouldn’t have regretted taking it as my only camera. Here’s what it did well, what the dedicated camera still does best, and why I think those differences don’t matter much to most people who take pictures.

    A military fort-turned-prison is kind of a weird place to take someone for their birthday, but my fiancé is into that kind of thing. Plus, it was a great excuse to quote Sean Connery saying ‘Welcome to the Rock,’ for several weeks leading up to the trip. I’d been to Alcatraz before, so I was happy to spend a little more effort and concentration on taking photos.

    As you might imagine, a jailhouse provides lots of low light photography opportunities – a task that the Pixel 4 is well equipped for. Night Sight does a little bit of computational magic to create surprisingly detailed images in low light (and good light for that matter). But even the default camera mode does a very nice job in dim conditions, thanks to its ability to capture multiple frames, analyze them and assemble the best bits into one final image on the fly. In fact, it out-performed the Canon G5 X II in the situations where I tested both.

    The moderately low light images below show the Pixel 4 producing a slightly more detailed, less noise-smudged image in its standard camera mode versus the Canon G5 X II’s out-of-camera JPEG.

    Zoom is another story. Google has improved the Super Resolution digital zoom in the Pixel 4, boosting image quality thanks to a combo of clever algorithms and the new telephoto lens. The company claims that the camera will produce decent results up to 6x zoom, but admit that zoom is a difficult problem to solve with the current technology.

    Absolutely nobody is claiming that the phone’s 4-6x zoomed images can take on a traditional camera’s zoom pixel-for-pixel, but because I’m curious I checked it out anyway. Both cameras are at 5x zoom in the example below (about 135mm equiv. for the Pixel 4 and 122mm equiv. on the G5 X II).

    The difference is obvious in the 100% crops above, and can be easily seen even at 50% – but then again how often will those photos be viewed on anything bigger than a computer screen? If I planned on making prints of these images, I’d still want a traditional optical zoom. But I rarely print images and I suspect I’m in the majority of the picture-taking public.

    There was one more Pixel 4 camera feature that I found myself relying on that the G5 X II doesn’t offer: Dual Exposure Controls, which doesn’t mean what you think it means.

    Dual Exposure Control puts a higher level of control over shadows and brightness, along with the ability to adjust them independently of each other, all before image capture

    An advanced compact such as the G5 X II provides plenty of manual controls over exposure settings. What it doesn’t provide is the ability to finely tune shadows and brightness before you press the shutter: you can instead select low, medium or high levels of its Auto Lighting Optimizer.

    The Pixel 4’s Dual Exposure Control gives you direct control over shadows and brightness, along with the ability to adjust them independently of each other, all before image capture. This phone and previous Google devices would do this automatically expose for backlit subjects and high-contrast scenes, but the dual controls allow you to increase or minimize the effect, depending on what you want.

    The Pixel 4’s Dual Exposure Controls allowed me to slightly boost shadows in this image before pressing the shutter.

    Of course the G5 X II offers plenty of editing flexibility with in-camera Raw processing, but control over settings is limited. For anything more advanced than some basic tweaks, you’ll need to take your Raw images into Lightroom or the like. On the Pixel 4, it all happens in-camera.

    This potentially changes how you approach a high-contrast scene. Normally I’d expose for the highlights and bring up the shadows later, which works well but leaves me without an image to share now. This is annoying because social media has robbed me of any patience I once had. The Pixel 4 lets me make those adjustments before I take the photo – rather than having to wait until I can process the image later.

    If I was keeping score, I could award a lot more points in favor of either device. Color science backed by decades of fine tuning, better picture-taking ergonomics, flip-out touchscreen for low angle shots: all points for the traditional camera. Integrated photo storage, seamless image sharing, always in your pocket: point, point, point for the Pixel 4.

    What speaks louder than any arbitrary score-keeping though is the fact that I saw few, if any, compact cameras among my fellow tourists at Alcatraz. I saw mirrorless cameras, DSLRs, a few superzoom cameras and of course, lots of phones. To most of the photo-taking population though, the compact camera – even a really nice compact camera – is already history.

    Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)