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Posts Tagged ‘White’

Weekly Photography Challenge – Black and White Techniques

15 Aug

This week on dPS it’s all about black and white photography. We are featuring a series of tips and articles around that topic. You can earlier ones below and more daily over the next few days.

  • 5 Simple Ways to Create Expressive Photos in Black and White
  • Tips for Black and White Wildlife Photography
  • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
  • 28 Images with Strong Black and White Compositions

Photograph Happy Holidays! by Sam Assadi on 500px

Happy Holidays! by Sam Assadi on 500px

Photograph  One Railroader by Silvia S. on 500px

One Railroader by Silvia S. on 500px

Weekly photography challenge – black and white techniques

Your challenge this week is to try out different black and white techniques. Try any or all of the following:

  • Shoot in b/w mode
  • High contrast lighting
  • Convert to b/w in Lightroom
  • Convert to b/w using Photoshop
  • Try out a black and white plugin
  • Try out some sepia tone or split toning
  • Do a b/w portrait, landscape, macro, night shots, street photography, or flowers
  • Try a b/w silhouette

Photograph The essence of night by Liban Yusuf B&W on 500px

The essence of night by Liban Yusuf B&W on 500px

Photograph Venice Nostalgia by Csilla Zelko on 500px

Venice Nostalgia by Csilla Zelko on 500px

Photograph Time to go ... by Gaelle Lunven on 500px

Time to go … by Gaelle Lunven on 500px

Photograph The Last Ride by Rob Dweck on 500px

The Last Ride by Rob Dweck on 500px

Photograph Ways of Life by Eileen Hafke on 500px

Ways of Life by Eileen Hafke on 500px

Share your images below:

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer upload them to your favourite photo sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

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5 Simple Ways to Create Expressive Photos in Black and White

14 Aug

Can you visualize the world around you in black and white? It’s not easy to do at first with an array bright colors competing for your attention. Look a little closer however, and you may recognize the broad potential for expressive imagery. Of course, not every situation lends itself to this artistic style. There are however, certain characteristics you can look for, to identify the best opportunities.

1) Embrace High Contrast

A subject with dark shadows and bright highlights would not be ideal for a color photograph. In fact, it’s one of the reasons techniques like HDR have become so popular. Yet, for black and white photography, this type of high contrast light can be extremely effective. The harsh mid-afternoon sun is no longer a detriment, but an enhancement. This is a major shift in the way one thinks about exposure. To help recognize these chances, look beyond what is immediately evident and pre-visualize the scene in grayscale. A scene you passed on, in color may prove quite dramatic in black and white.

As is always the case in all good art, rules are meant to be broken. The same is true with black and white exposures. You have even more flexibility as shadows can be inky black, and highlights can clip the histogram while retaining the image’s visual appeal. To maximize the dynamic range of the camera, use the “ETTR” technique (expose to the right). Rather than a muddy exposure, you’ll enjoy the crisp contrast of the full tonal range.

2) Simplify with Shape and Form

In the absence of color, shapes and patterns become more pronounced. Lighter tones will stand out boldly when placed in front of a darker area. This is an effective way emphasize the important parts of a subject while minimizing distractions. To compose this way, think about the process of subtraction. What can you remove from the image that’s not essential to the story? As you simplify, the design of the photo will get stronger.

Even something as simple as a shadow on the ground can be used creatively. To the human eye, detail is evident in the pavement, but with a camera they can be rendered as inky black. This may be a very different style of seeing for you. To practice, I recommend taking a photo hike in which you search for nothing but shadows. You may be pleasantly surprised by how many interesting shots you’ll find.

3) Details Tell a Story

It’s been said that a person’s eyes are the windows to their soul. Their character however, can often be revealed in their hands. In black and white, the subtle details that often go unnoticed become more evident. Wrinkles and texture, for example, benefit from a deeper more textured appearance. This method is especially effective when using flat or overhead light. Typically this direct light would be undesirable, but in grayscale it can be preferable to that of a softer, diffused quality light.

4) Imagine a Mood

Blue skies are often used to symbolize happiness. You’ll see this pattern in magazine ads, television commercials, and even movies. Black and white images however, are associated with a different variety of moods. The precise emotion is ultimately up to the viewer, but a few common themes include solitude, contemplation, and pensiveness. Photographers of all genres can work with these traits to effectively portray their vision.

Use your imagination to visualize the mood you want an image to have. A great place to start is to study some of the masters. While Ansel Adams’ landscapes in black and white are very well known, go further in your research. For example, look at the emotion in Edward Weston’s famous “Pepper No. 30”. Another fine representation of this medium is “White Sands, New Mexico” by Ernst Haas. Of course the list goes on, but these are a good place to start. A visit to a local library will undoubtedly prove inspirational as you may discover work by artists you are not yet familiar with.

5) Dark Spaces and Silhouettes

Subjects that linger in darkness are sometimes more compelling than well-lit scenes. Using black and white photography, you have the ability to show the world in a completely different way. Instead of eliminating the shadowy areas, use them to your advantage. An empty space can actually be an effective method of composition. This type of artistic exposure is more edgy than a literal interpretation.

Take a look through your own catalog of images. There will likely be a number of photos that could be quite dramatic as a black and white. As you convert them from color, experiment with different post production filters to see how it impacts the scene. For example, a blue filter may lighten the sky dramatically, whereas a yellow filter will make it darker. If you’re looking for even greater control, there are a number of excellent plugins available. One of my favorites is Exposure by Alien Skin as it offers nearly endless customization. More terrific options include software by Nik, Topaz, and OnOne.

Editor’s Note: This is the first article in a week full of features on black and white photography. Look for another one later today and daily over the next week.

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The post 5 Simple Ways to Create Expressive Photos in Black and White by Chris Corradino appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography

14 Aug

Why would you choose to create black and white photographs in the era of digital cameras that are capable of accurately capturing millions upon millions of colors? Black and white photography seems to be a constant in the history of the medium, with color technology only propagating itself into wide use around halfway between Nicéphore Niépce’s first heliograph and today.

Black and white portrait tips 3201

There’s a lot of debate on both sides of the argument, but for me and many others it’s a simple matter of aesthetics. A good black and white treatment has a way of stripping unneeded information from an image, helping you to emphasize specific elements to your viewer without the distractions color can provide.

Portrait photography is a genre where black and white images can really shine. Like any technique, there are considerations that you should regard that can help to make sure your images have the most impact.

1 – Start with black and white in mind

For many photographers, black and white is more than a creative choice at the post-production stage; it’s a mindset. If you can start the creation of an image knowing that you intend it to be black and white, you can take steps to ensure that all of the elements of a good monochrome image are in place before you press the shutter. Things like contrast in tonality, contrast in lighting, and appropriate expressions from your subjects are all elements that are difficult, if not impossible, to fix after an image is taken.

If you have trouble imagining how an image may look in black and white, try setting your camera to a monochrome setting. While it isn’t recommended to do this for a final image, as long as you shoot in RAW file format, then all of your image’s color data will still be present in the file, and Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw will reset the photo back to color once it’s imported. Doing this will allow you to have an idea of how an image will work in black and white, while still providing the highest amount of versatility in post-production.

2 – The eyes are more important than ever

Black and white portrait tips 3088

The most important part of the majority of portraits are the eyes. They are usually the focal point that the rest of your image is built around. This is especially true with black and white. With the omission of color, a black and white image often breaks down into graphic forms and shapes. Eyes are shapes that everyone recognizes and they draw immediate focus from your viewers. Make sure that your subject’s eyes are well lit, and focus is critical.

3 – Expressions are emphasized

Black and white portrait tips 3191

Like the eyes, other facial features become more prominent in a black and white portrait. You can use this to your advantage by conveying emotion in your images. Even tiny changes in your subject’s expression can make a difference. Things like a raised eyebrow, a twitch at the corner of a mouth, and smile lines under the eyes can all be used to great effect.

Here is an exercise you can do with your portrait subjects to get a mixture of great expressions. Prepare a list of words or phrases and ask them to react to how they feel to each one. The words you choose can be simple descriptors of emotion like: love, sad, joy, angry and melancholy. For more diverse expressions try more abstract words, or funny ones like: cheeseburger, politics, Teletubbies or Hulk smash. As a bonus, this sometimes works extremely well to lighten the mood when you have a subject who’s tense or nervous during a sitting.

4 – Lighting considerations

Black and white portrait tips 3335

When it comes to lighting a black and white portrait image, there are no hard and fast rules. If you like high contrast images with hard gradations in tone, then choose a harder source of light. If you like soft tones and subtler images, then you want a softer light source.

It’s all about personal preference here. If you’re not sure what yours is, try finding the first ten black and white portraits that stand out to you the most and see if you can deconstruct them in terms of lighting.

5 – Add contrast with light

Black and white portrait tips 3107

If you’re going to create high contrast black and white photos, the best advice is to add it with light, not in Photoshop. Small global adjustments are okay and won’t hurt your images, but definitely do not crank the contrast slider to 100. Try to limit it between +15/-15. For local adjustments, use a dodging and burning technique of your choice. The key point in this, and all post-production, is subtlety.

6 – You can’t save a bad image with black and white

If you’re working on an image that you feel isn’t up to scratch and you ask yourself if it will work in black and white, the answer is probably no. A black and white treatment will often emphasize the flaws that made you question the image in the first place, and a bad photo is a bad photo regardless of its color scheme or lack thereof.

7 – Choose black and white in spite of color

Certain subjects scream out to be shot in black and white. Other subjects may not be so obvious. Bright, punchy colors obviously make for vivid color photos, but by removing the color element you can completely change how a subject or scene is perceived. When you want to ensure your viewer is focused on a particular element, color as a graphic element, can become a distraction. Try removing it.

This can be a difficult concept to understand without seeing it, so I have included an example of a color version of one the images above. Ask yourself: How did your perception of the photos change? What did you notice first in each of the images? Do you feel differently or think differently of it when you view it in color than in black and white?

Black and white portrait tips 3088 colour

Hopefully, you can see that even though bold colors can make for vivid imagery, their absence can as well.

If you’re new to black and white photography, do remember that these are guides and not rules. If you need to stray from them to get the result you’re after, do so without hesitation.

Finally, if you try black and white and you like it: welcome to the addiction!

Editor’s Note: This is one of a series of articles this week featuring black and white photography tips. Look for earlier ones below and more daily over the next week.

  • 5 Simple Ways to Create Expressive Photos in Black and White
  • Tips for Black and White Wildlife Photography

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Understanding Black and White Filters in Lightroom

13 Aug

Shooting in black and white can be an amazingly creative way to explore new areas of photography, and help you see not only your pictures, but the world around you in a whole new light. However, unless you are shooting with black and white film or with a dedicated black and white camera like the Leica M Monochrom, all your pictures will initially be shot in color and later transformed into black and white through software tricks or filters.

Lightroom has an impressive array of presets that allow you to apply black and white effects to your color pictures, but in order to select the right filter for your particular pictures it’s important to understand how these presets work behind the scenes, and what they are really doing to your photos.

black-and-white-filters-hispanic-student-association

Back in the days of film photography, black and white film was composed of a single layer of silver crystals that were sensitive to light and affected the film in different ways depending on the wavelength, or color, of the incoming light. Green light (like reflected off of plants and trees) had a different effect on the film than red light (reflected off apples) or blue light (reflected off the sky).

When color film was invented it contained not one, but three layers of silver halide crystals, each of which produced different colors when exposed to light–similar to how the photosensitive pixels work on modern digital cameras. The problem with this method was that sometimes a photographer would need his or her film to be extra sensitive to different wavelengths of light, depending on the particular scene being photographed. One popular solution was to use colored filters that screwed onto the front of the camera lens, which still left the resulting image monochrome but changed its properties in significant ways.

A collection of color filters that can be quite useful in black and white photography.

A collection of color filters from Amazon that can be quite useful in black and white photography.

These filters operate by absorbing light on different parts of the spectrum while letting other colors pass through much more easily: green filters absorb more of most colors except green, blue blocks most colors except blue, and so on. This means that portions of the spectrum similar to the color of the filter will be lighter since more of that color of light makes it through the filter and essentially over-exposing those portions of the film. Conversely, portions on the opposite side of the color wheel from a given filter color will be darker since less of that light is allowed to pass through. For example, this diagram illustrates the basic principle behind a red color filter:

black-and-white-color-filters-diagram

The fact that more red is allowed to enter through the camera lens means the camera’s light meter would then adjust itself accordingly: you’re essentially exposing for the reds, which means that a properly exposed black and white image with a red filter would have pleasing reds with very dark cyans, blues, and greens.

black-and-white-color-filters-diagram-stars

By taking this basic idea and applying it to modern digital photography you can start to see how different black and white post-processing solutions work. In Lightroom you can mimic the effects of a color filter when converting an image to black and white. It’s not quite the same as actually using a physical filter on your lens and shooting using black and white film, but it’s a decent approximation that gets the job done for most circumstances. The trick is knowing which filter to use in a given situation.

This shot of kids’ feet would be nice in black and white, but in order to choose the right style it’s important to know how each type of color filter will affect the results. A green filter will make the leaves lighter while darkening the skin colors, since they are somewhat opposite on the color wheel. A blue filter will lighten the bluish hue of the rocks and the darker areas in the leaves but darken the skin colors, though perhaps a bit too much.

black-and-white-filters-feet-original

Here’s what the same image looks like with five different Lightroom black and white filter presets applied:

black-and-white-filters-all

In the end I chose a yellow filter to create the final image because it exposes the legs and feet a bit more while underexposing the blue and purple hues in the rocks:

black-and-white-filters-feet-yellow-filter

Of course Lightroom is not actually putting a color filter over your picture, but using digital tricks to approximate the same effect. It does this by altering the values of various parameters in the Develop module when a given preset is applied. After selecting a Black and White Filter preset you can see how various color values change by choosing the B&W panel in the Develop module. Note how the sliders change for various selected Presets, such as the Yellow and Blue in the example below.

black-and-white-lightroom-presets

Lightroom is not applying different colors to a black and white image, but deciding how much of each color value to over or under-saturate in order to mimic the effect of putting the same type of physical filter on your camera. While it’s not quite the same as shooting in pure black and white, one of the nice advantages is how Lightroom allows you to essentially create custom black and white filters by adjusting the slider values yourself. You can tweak any of the existing Presets, not just the Black and White ones, by increasing or decreasing various sliders, and even save your adjustments as new Presets that you can apply instantly to any image.

As one more extreme example, here’s an image of some bocce balls with different filters applied.

black-and-white-lightroom-balls-original

The original color image, properly exposed.

Applying a red filter preset in Lightroom produces an image where the reds are properly exposed and a bit lighter, but the blue shirts are dramatically darker since red and blue are rather opposite on the color spectrum.

black-and-white-lightroom-balls-red-filter

The same image with a Red black and white filter preset applied.

Now look what happens when a blue filter preset is applied. Just like a real physical filter on the front of the camera lens, the blues are lighter while all opposing colors are incredibly dark because very little of that light was allowed to pass through–or at least that’s the effect that Lightroom attempts to mimic.

black-and-white-lightroom-balls-blue-filter

A Blue filter preset now changes the image dramatically.

So how do you get a properly exposed image, with a well balanced amount of black and white across the frame? In real life you would use a green filter since this would block roughly equal amounts of both reds and blues, and the effect works quite well in Lightroom as well.

black-and-white-lightroom-balls-green-filter

Using a green filter preset results in a well balanced image.

As you can see, getting a proper black and white conversion in Lightroom is not always as simple as just clicking a button. It helps to know not only what options are available, but why they function the way they do.

What about you? What are your favorite black and white tips and tricks in Lightroom? There is much more I have not covered in this article, and if you have anything you’d like to share leave your thoughts in the comments below.

Editor’s Note: This is the second article in a week full of features on black and white photography. Look for 5 Simple Ways to Create Expressive Photos in Black and White earlier today and more daily over the next week.

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4 Tips to Help you Decide Between Black and White or Color for your Image

09 Jul

Why do black and white photographs speak to us? In nature, colors are meant to attract, and cause things to catch our attention. Still, even without color, black and white images are a mainstay of our craft, and are powerful representations of the artistic spirit.

Half Color

There are many differing opinions when it comes to black and white photography. Some photographers love it, and shoot black and white exclusively, while other photographers absolutely shun the notion and shoot only in color. Then you have the majority of our lot who fall somewhere in between the love and hate poles. Luckily, the digital imaging age allows photographers to decide after the fact whether our images make us happier in full color, or in black and white. However, this ease of conversion can become somewhat of a problem because it is in fact so simple to switch from color to black and white, that it can cause conflicting feelings about which route to take. While there is really no absolute magic formula to determine the best choice for your particular image, there are some guidelines that you can follow to make your decision a little easier.

Here are four tips to help you decide if an image will be more appealing in black and white than in color.

Black and white or color?

#1 Does color have a large impact on the image?

This may seem like an easy judgment to make, but it is not always so simple. Color can be a fickle thing, and can either add to, or unintentionally detract interest from a photograph. Ask yourself, “does this image rely exclusively on color or are there other interesting aspects that can be emphasized?” Just how nice would it be to look at as a colorless rainbow? This not to say that all colorful objects and scenes won’t do well as black and white, but as a general rule most highly or diversely colored subjects should remain just that – colorful.

Silhouette
This image really had nothing to say in the way of color, so I made use of the heavy backlighting to create a strong contrast with the subject.

Two Giraffes
The original image didn’t have a lot going on as far as color, so I choose to convert it to black and white to really make the patterns pop.

The opposite of this usually proves to be true also. When you have an inherently bland scene or subdued colors, the image will usually do well when converted to black and white and this leads us to tip #2.

#2 Are there interesting light or contrasts?

This is where new photographers tend to encounter a little bit of difficulty because seeing good light or contrasts usually requires quite a bit of pre-visualization. Don’t worry! Developing an eye takes, well, some developing. The more you force yourself to look past what is readily apparent, the more you will learn to almost see in black and white.

When you remove color from the photographic equation, you are left with only differences in tone; lights and darks. These differences are what truly make good black and white images, and the differences in light and shadow bring contrast to the photograph. So, when you see that a given scene or subject presents the opportunity to exploit stark contrasts and unique lighting or shadow, it might be a great opportunity to try black and white. Take a look at this image of the leaf of a house plant.

Plant Leaf

I used a single flash behind the leaf to really bring out the contrasts within. Ordinarily these details might have gone unnoticed, and the black and white treatment really compliments the lighting.

The great Ansel Adam’s said that he; “could convey a greater sense of color with well executed black and white images using only light, shadow, and even subtleties in texture to express the qualities of the photo”. It’s that last variable, texture, that brings us to tip #3.

#3 Are there interesting textures?

When we think of texture, we can easily describe it in terms of how things feel physically, when we perceive them through our sense of touch. Texture in photography, however, can be a little more challenging to put into words. Texture in a photograph has to be perceived with our eyes and then we determine if it’s smooth, rough, or coarse. Transforming the tactile tangible into a visually tangible image takes practice and a trained eye, and this is where working in black and white can be the best choice. Examples of textures that work well for black and white photos are wood, metals and stone, even plants and human skin. Directional lighting (light from largely one source coming from the side) compliments, and helps emphasize textures.

This image was made with natural lighting coming in directly from one side. This really brings out the texture, imperfections, and grittiness of the photograph.

Hands

This last tip goes beyond the physical attributes of an image and delves into the feelings we want to convey through a photograph. This is where black and white photography can really shine.

#4 What is the mood you want to create?

Have you ever looked a photograph, and been immediately struck by how the photograph felt? This is often referred to as the mood of a photo. It could be a bleak and rainy street scene, or an image of a warm and welcoming sunset. In any case, using black and white is a good way to convey a sense of mood in your photography. Admittedly, black and white usually imparts dark, bleak, somber, or an etherial overtone to a photograph, but that does not mean that it doesn’t work well for more upbeat images. Convert some of your landscapes to black and white to see how the mood can change. Experiment with black and white portraits which can portray your subject with a more stoic and brooding persona.

This photo of a hot day on Boston Common had lots of differences in lighting, along with some great coloring especially in the sky. Still, I chose black and white because it simply felt better to me, and matched what I saw in my mind more closely.

Boston Common

Keep in mind that you may run into some different terms if you decide to work more with black and white photography. These terms are usually interchanged, but in reality they are not all the same. It will help you to understand the differences in each so you can know what to expect.

Monochrome

Monochrome simply means varying shades of only one color are used to make an image. This is often thought of as black and white (which are technically monochromatic) but in reality any color can be used. Sepia toned photographs are a good example of images which are monochrome.

This is an example of a monochromatic photograph that is not black and white.

Sepia Waterfall (2)

 

Grayscale

The term grayscale is another one that gets thrown around to label black and white images. Though not completely incorrect, grayscale images use only varying shades of gray (256 to be exact), and no other color. Grayscale can be a very bland when no other edits are used because it tends to leave the entire photo as middle gray. Notice how bland and uninteresting the below image looks when it’s converted to grayscale.

Grayscale

True Black and White

As I have said, black and white images are indeed monochromatic but not all monochrome images are black and white. True black and white photos use only black and white to produce the image although the majority still use a mix of gray tones.

This is the same image as above after it has been further processed to be closer to a true black and white photo. The differences in tones become becomes more apparent, and the photo becomes much more pleasing.

True BW

Black and white photography has been a staple genre since literally the inception of photography, and has evolved into a high art-form. Of course there are some people who simply do not like black and white images and prefer everything in color. Still, black and white photography is something that should not be discounted, and certainly not underestimated in terms of artistic expression. Today’s processing software makes converting color images to black and white nearly effortless, so use these tips and give it a try!

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White House ban on photos and social media has ended

03 Jul

The White House has ended the ban on photography and social media use during public tours, and is instead urging visitors to take and share photos from tours using the applicable hashtag #WhiteHouseTour. The photography ban had been in place for 40 years, and was instated in part to reduce the damaging effects of flash photography on artwork. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How to Make the Most of Hard Light with Black and White Photography

12 Mar

Black & white photography

The quality of light is an important aspect of successful photography – good photographers spend hours chasing the most suitable light for the type of photography they do. That usually means working at the beginning or the end of the day, when the sun is low in the sky and the light has many beautiful qualities.

But what about the middle of the day? Many photographers avoid shooting in direct sunlight in this period, especially in summer, because the light is so hard and strong. You can’t use it for portraits (unless you use flash, which is the subject for another article) or find a place in the shade for your model. It’s nearly impossible to use it for landscapes, because they always look so much better in the softer light, characteristic of the the day’s end.

Perhaps the problem is not so much bad light, but a poor match of light to subject. So the question becomes, is there a subject that you can successfully shoot in strong, midday light? I believe there is. I like to use this part of the day for photographing a subject comprised of strong lines and graphic shapes – architecture.

Black & white photography

Two photos of the same structure (Monument to the People’s Heroes in Shanghai) taken moments apart. In both cases I was exploring the shape of the structure against the blue sky, shooting with a wide-angle lens from ground level looking up. The first image concentrates on shape and line. The second is more abstract. I used a polarizing filter to darken the sky, and photographed the sunlit monument against it for maximum tonal contrast.

This may seem a little strange because buildings are often best photographed during the golden hour, but there is no reason why you can’t shoot during the middle of the day as well. The only drawback is that colour photos of buildings taken at this time of the day, often with a deep blue sky in the background, are usually not very exciting.

But switch to black and white photography and it’s a different story. Without colour, and the strong distraction of a deep blue sky, the photographic possibilities change entirely. Suddenly you’re not looking at the colour of a scene. Instead you’re exploring line, shape, texture, form and shadow. Then, take those photos into Lightroom and there’s all kinds of wonderful, creative things you can do in post-processing to enhance the image.

Black & white photography

Details like this sculpture can work very well in midday light as the hard shadows suit the material it is constructed from. I enhanced the black and white version of this photo in Lightroom by using an Adjustment Brush to increase Clarity and Contrast on the metal surfaces in the image.

Learning to see in black and white takes time, but there are a couple of things you can do that will help.

The first is to shoot in your camera’s black and white mode, but with image quality set to Raw. When you play back your image on the camera’s LCD screen it is displayed in black and white, yet because you are using Raw you have the full colour file to work with in Lightroom or Photoshop.

You will probably find it useful to spend some time looking at your photos on the camera’s LCD screen during the shoot to see how the colour scene in front of you translates to monochrome. As you gain experience you will need to do this less and less, but it can be incredibly helpful the first few times you try.

If you have a camera with an electronic viewfinder, the camera displays the scene in black and white in the viewfinder. This is even more useful because you don’t have to visualize how the colours in the scene will convert to black and white. The camera does it for you and you can concentrate on creating beautiful compositions.

The second is to use a polarizing filter to turn the already blue sky an even darker shade of blue. This can look fantastic in black and white. If you enable the red filter setting in the camera’s black and white mode options it will make the blue sky darker yet, and it may even turn black. Position a sunlit, light-toned, building in front of that dark sky and you have some amazing tonal contrast and the basis for a dramatic black and white architectural study.

Black & white photography

It is easy to be seduced by colour, especially when presented by colour buildings such as these ones in Burano, Italy. This photo was taken around midday, but because the sun was overheard it cast a raking light over the front surface of the buildings, bringing out the textures in the wall. I increased Clarity in Lightroom to emphasize the texture in the black and white conversion.

I’ve concentrated on photographing buildings in this article, but I’d like to hear what other subjects you shoot during the middle of the day. Please let us know in the comments.

Black & white photography

This photo, also taken in Burano, is a study of the shape of the house against the deep blue sky (emphasized by a polarizing filter). The symmetry of the house is broken by the chimney on the left.


The Mastering Lightroom Collection

Mastering Lightroom ebooksMy Mastering Lightroom ebooks will help you get the most out of Lightroom 4 and Lightroom 5. They cover every aspect of the software from the Library module through to creating beautiful images in the Develop module. Click the link to learn more or buy.

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Inevitably Graffitied: White Canvas-Like SoHo Facade Defaced

23 Feb

[ By WebUrbanist in Art & Street Art & Graffiti. ]

storefront studio front entry

While its creators anticipated this stretched plastic surface appealing to local graffiti artists, they were apparently hoping for a higher grade of street art to adorn the Storefront for Art and Architecture gallery facade in New York City.

soho storefront white wall

storefront graffiti art vandalism

Architecture studio SO-IL created this temporary surface as an extension of an exhibition going on within the gallery space, but its creators remain somewhat disappointed: “We knew this would happen. Unrestrained, Storefront pushes itself into the public domain. By wrapping it in a white canvas it further provokes a response from the city. It was anticipated, but what a poor quality of the graffiti… We had hoped for something better.”

storefront installation art facade

storefront lit at night

So far, tags like “ugly kids” and other scrawled messages have been mainly black spray on the white background – nothing layered or time-consuming. Of course, now that the memo is out, perhaps a different kind of artist will take a try at the surface – that, or the statements may backfire, with artists wondering why they should add value to someone else’s surface.

storefront studio interior view

soho storefront graffiti defaced

Illuminated and pressed outward by walls and objects from within the gallery, part of the idea was to draw people into the exhibit by creating visual interest along the street and sidewalk – a novel trick for attracting attention. Still, if this kind of impromptu artistic addition was expected, why not simply invite a group of graffiti artists to contribute in the first place? In the end, once one concedes a surface will be defaced, either it will unfold naturally and unpredictably or will have to be controlled by the property owners – there is no real middle ground.

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Invasions: Clouds of White Balloons Take Over Public Spaces

10 Feb

[ By Steph in Art & Installation & Sound. ]

invasion 1

Profusions of white balloons seem to explode from the interiors of houses, squeeze through basketball hoops and hover between the trees in the forest like odd bulbous clouds in this series by artist Charles Pétillon. ‘Invasions’ gives these normally free-floating objects a life of their own with a swarm-like presence within architectural spaces and landscapes.

invasion 3

Each photograph depicts a particular metaphor, making a statement on various topics. ‘Family Memories,’ top, shows the white balloons “symbolizing childhood naivety,” while ‘Play Station 2′ aims to “question the viewer on the uses of games in all forms, their evolution and their influence in society.”

invasion 5

The forest scene, entitled ‘Mutation 2,’ mimics the molecular structure of DNA, placing it in a picturesque environment to symbolize the effect of humans on natural spaces, with our tendency to modify everything to our own uses.

invasion 2

invasion 4

‘Invasions’ brings the balloons to retrofuturistic architecture designed in the late ’70s and early ’80s to examine our visions of the future and how quickly they become obsolete. ‘CO2′ represents the scars we leave upon the world with our lust for objects like cars. The artist sees the balloons as a way to visualize each of these ways in which we thoughtlessly proliferate, invade or evolve.

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How to Split Tone Black and White Photos in Lightroom

04 Jan

Split toning in Lightroom

Toning originated as a darkroom process designed to extend the longevity of black and white prints. Photographers did so using chemical toners such as sepia, selenium and gold. Toners work by removing silver from the print and replacing it with another element with a longer life span.

A side effect of toning is that it adds colour. Sepia toned prints range from light yellow to deep brown, selenium is a subtle blue or purple, and gold anything from blue to deep red (if applied to a photo that has already been sepia toned). For many photographers the colours were just as important as the archival benefits because of the emotional values they added to the monochrome print.

Another, more unfortunate side effect of darkroom toning is that many of the chemicals are hazardous. Luckily, in the digital age, there is no need to use them. Toning is much quicker, and you can create any colour tone you like, using Lightroom’s Split Toning panel.

Furthermore you can use Virtual Copies to create several different versions of the same image, each with a different tone. It makes experimenting easy, and you can compare them afterwards to see which you prefer. You can even turn your favourite toning effects into Develop Presets so you can use them again whenever you want.

Emotional value of toning

Before we start, let’s look why you would tone a black and white photo. With digital, there is no need to tone for archival purposes, that leaves two reasons. The first is simply because you want to add some colour. Toning is a good way to do that and can really lift your images. The second reason is to add emotional value to the photo. For example, sepia toning both flatters the model and adds a sense of nostalgia and warmth. Blue toning, on the other hand, adds a cold feel.

Split toning in Lightroom

These four photos are processed identically apart from the toning treatment. The colour makes a huge difference to the appearance and emotional impact of each image.

It should be noted at this point that not all black and white photos take well to toning. The best images to use are those with lots of dark tones (plus some highlights for contrast – my article about tonal contrast goes into this more). Black and white photos with lots of light tones don’t seem to tone as well as those with lots of shadows.

How to use the Split Toning panel

Split toning in Lightroom

The Split Toning panel

The Split Toning panel is simple to use. The first pair of Hue and Saturation sliders sets the colour that is applied to the photo’s highlights. The second pair sets the colour that is applied to the shadows. The Balance slider is used to give precedence to either the highlight or the shadow colour.

If you hold the Alt key down while moving the Hue slider, Lightroom displays the Hue at 100% saturation, helping you judge the colour accurately.

Here are some examples. Most black and white split toning combinations are a variation of the following.

Split toning in Lightroom

Highlights: Hue 0/Saturation 0 | Shadows: Hue 0/Saturation 0

Untoned black and white image.

Split toning in Lightroom

Highlights: Hue 0/Saturation 0 | Shadows: Hue 45/Saturation 13

 Sepia tone applied to shadows only, leaving highlights unchanged.

Split toning in Lightroom

Highlights: Hue 46/Saturation 17 | Shadows: Hue 45/Saturation 15

 Sepia tone applied to shadows and highlights.

Split toning in Lightroom

Highlights: Hue 0/Saturation 0 | Shadows: Hue 234/Saturation 26

 Blue tone applied to shadows only, leaving highlights unchanged.

Split toning in Lightroom

Highlights: Hue 39/Saturation 30 | Shadows: Hue 234/Saturation 26

Blue tone applied to shadows, sepia tone applied to highlights. This is the classic split tone look. Split toning like this helps create a sense of depth. Basic colour theory tells us that warm colours appear to be closer to the viewer and that cool colours recede. Applying a cool tone to the shadows and a warm one to the highlights helps reinforces a similar sense of depth created by the effective use of tonal contrast.

Split toning in Lightroom

Highlights: Hue 0/Saturation 47 | Shadows: Hue 234/Saturation 31

Blue tone applied to shadows, copper tone applied to highlights. This imitates the blue and copper split tone effect that was possible to achieve in the chemical darkroom.

Split toning in Lightroom

Highlights: Hue 47/Saturation 52 | Shadows: Hue 36/Saturation 23

Sepia tone applied to shadows, gold tone applied to highlights. This imitates the sepia and gold split tone effect it was also possible to achieve in the chemical darkroom.

Those combinations should be enough to get you going, and of course you can experiment as much as you like with the sliders in the Split Toning panel to see what you can achieve.

Please share some of your split toning creations in the comments below.


Mastering Lightroom: Book Three – Black & White

Masterlng Lightroom: Book Three – Black & White by Andrew S GibsonMy ebook Mastering Lightroom: Book Three – Black & White goes into the topic of black and white in depth. It explains everything you need to know to make dramatic and beautiful monochrome conversions in Lightroom, including how to use the most popular black and white plug-ins. Click the link to visit my website and learn more.

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