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Posts Tagged ‘Using’

3 Tips for Better Black and White Conversion using Lightroom

16 Jan

Ever wondered how the professional photographers get those dreamy black and white or sepia toned images? Wonder why yours come out looking dull and flat looking?  I’m going to give you 3 tips to help you do better black and white conversions using Adobe Lightroom, and solve that problem!

Today’s cameras are pretty smart, and many of them offer a black and white setting or shooting mode. I recommend using those to start, especially if you’ve never done any black and white (B&W) or if you are not currently doing any post processing or image editing on your files. BUT, if you have some experience with b/w photography, and you are processing your images, I recommend doing the conversion yourself as you have more control over the look of the final image.  I’m going to show you a few ways of converting them into B&W using Lightroom.

Note:  for the most part these tips will work in Photoshop as well, using the Adobe Camera Raw features and sliders.

First a quick note about my background. Back when I took my photography degree (dare I say, in 1987-88, and date myself) I spent the entire first year shooting black & white only, using a 4×5 view camera no less. I processed my own film and made my own prints. I spent a lot of time in a black & white darkroom, so I’m pretty well versed in how it works and how to control it to my advantage.

To grab some info from those film days, it’s important to note and understand that your camera sees light and colours differently than does the human eye. Black and white film sees blue tones much lighter than our eyes, for example.  Coloured filters were used to shift how the B&W film “saw” and rendered the scene.  Using a red filter would lighten anything red in the image and darken blue tones.  So if you were a landscape photographer you’d often use a red filter to darken the sky and make it less washed out.   A green filter would lighten green and blue tones and darken red and orange.  So photographers used the appropriate filter to capture the scene as they envisioned it.

In Lightroom and ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) in Photoshop you have the same tools at your disposal!  So without the use of filters, you can adjust how the scene is rendered in B&W.  That brings me to the first tip.

Tip #1 – use the B&W mix to do your conversions

In Lightroom’s Develop module (and ACR) there are a few ways that you can convert your images into B&W.  You can just pull the saturation slider all the way to left to -100. You can also do similar with the Vibrance slider, but it may not give you a 100% B&W image, depending on the image. Both of those options will give you a black & white result. However, they give you no control over how the colours render into the various shades of grey. A better choice, in my opinion, is to use the B&W mix, located on the third panel down on the right in Develop – see below.

Black and white mix panel in Lightroom Develop module

Let’s take a look at an example using the same image.

Original colour image

B&W conversion done using the Saturation slider at -100

B&W conversion done using the B&W mix in LR

In the images above, notice how the blue sky went really light using the desaturate method?  This is often the case when you have a lot of blue sky in an image, as I explained above.  Using the B&W mix and pulling a few of the sliders I was able to get very different tones.  This is what my sliders in the B&W Mix panel look like on the third image:

Notice the blue slider is pulled all the way to the left to -100.  That is what is darkening my sky.  Also worth noting is the green and yellow sliders are moved in the opposite or plus direction.  This lightens both yellows and greens (most grass and trees are often a mix of green and yellow, sometimes more yellow than green).  I have not done any selective adjustments to darken the sky here, just the sliders you see to the right!  How very different this image is from the desaturated one, and so simple to do using this method!

Also on this panel notice there is an “Auto” button.  Clicking it will allow Lightroom to apply a predetermined B&W mix for you.  You can also set up in your Lightroom preferences to apply that for you when B&W mix is selected, then you can just fine tune from there.  Otherwise all the sliders will start at “0″.

Another little known trick for using these sliders is the funny looking little double circle thing on the top left.  As you move the mouse over it, you will see this:

Adjust Black & White Mix by dragging in photo. So what on earth does that mean, you may wonder?!  If you click on the little circle your mouse pointer will now have little up and down arrows, as well as your cursor showing the same icon as you hover over the image. Click anywhere on the image, hold and drag, and it will adjust ONLY the colours that you’ve clicked on.   Drag up to move the sliders to the right (+) and drag down to move them to the left (-). How cool is that?!

This is very helpful if you do not know which sliders to adjust.  Just select the area of your image you’d like to adjust the tones on and drag away!

Tip #2 – don’t just stop there, add some punch

Sometimes even using the B&W mix sliders the resulting image still looks a bit flat and dull looking.  Take it up a notch by adding some punch to your image.  I do the following to most of my B&W images:

  • increase the clarity:  if it’s a scenic I’ll push it quite far like +60 or higher, if it’s a person I keep it under +30 or they start to look a bit crunchy and overly wrinkled (especially if the photo is of your mom or your spouse, they tend not to be too happy about that)
  • lower the black slider, until it looks good.  Highly scientific, yes! Here’s a little trick for you as well using the Blacks slider:  if you click and hold the Opt/Alt button while you slide it, you will get to see exactly where your blacks are clipping (meaning going off the chart on the histogram and having no detail). You can use that information to make sure you have just enough blacks, but make sure you keep all the detail in important areas.
  • increase the contrast either using the Contrast slider or Curves

Occasionally after making these contrast adjustments it will affect the overall image and you may want to go back and rework the B&W sliders a bit too.  It’s a dance, play them back and forth until you get a mix you like.   Here’s the final version of the image above, with contrast and punch adjustments applied.

Notice how much more snap it has, while still maintaining that nice rich, dark sky!

Secret to making great B&W images that the pros won’t tell you . . .

Black!  That’s it.  Make sure you actually have some black, and some white in your image.  Check the histogram and use my little tip on seeing the clipped bits. Add contrast or increase the blacks, whites, or both to get a full range of tones.  No matter what the subject is in the photograph, having enough contrast to have pure white, and pure black is key to having a stunning B&W image.  Otherwise you’re just left with a bunch of grey mud.

Tip #3 – creating selective coloured images

There are a couple ways to make selectively coloured images, and also to create that faded look that is really popular. Once again you can use the Vibrance and Saturation sliders in the Basic panel, however they will affect colours in the entire image the same.  You can also use the Adjustment Brush and paint in a lower saturation onto parts of your image where you want to fade out the colour.  I use that method quite often, even on full colour images, to do tone control on items in the background that are distracting.

Lastly you can use the sliders in the HSL panel.  By sliding selected colours to the left you can desaturate only those colours.  You can also use the little Click and Drag tool we used earlier to do the B&W Mix to click on your image and pick the areas to fade.   Here’s an example using each of these methods.  None is right or wrong, just give you a different look and some have more control than others.  Choose the one that works for you on in individual image basis.

Original colour image

Vibrance slider set to -75

Saturation slider set to -75

Adjustment brush used to paint in saturation at -75 to the whole image except for the wool

HSL sliders used to desaturate by separate colours

*Bonus Tip – making a nice duotone or sepia toned image

A little extra bonus tip for you.  Adobe has made it super easy to create a really nice duotone (just means two tones, go figure!) image, which includes Sepia.  Just go to the Split Toning panel after you’ve done your B&W conversion, it’s the fourth one down.

You will see sliders for both Highlights, and Shadows.  My personal tip on how to keep a nice clean sepia or toned image is to use ONLY the Shadows sliders and do not touch Highlights.  That will leave you with clean, crisp white highlights even after you’ve applied the toning.

How to create the duotone

First start by choosing the Hue slider (for Shadows).  If you want a nice brown colour, start with it around 40-45. Each image tones slightly differently, so start there and adjust to your taste and style.  You may notice that nothing happened, right?  That is because you need to increase the Saturation slider before the tone will show up.  The more you increase saturation, the deeper and more vibrant the colour tone will become.  Again, there is no right or wrong, it’s all about preference.  For a subtle, dark, chocolate brown try 10-20.  For a deeper colour go higher with saturation (NOTE: make sure the “balance” slider is set to zero)

If you want a different tone just move the Hue slider.  You can create some really neat affects this way including Blue Tone or a true Duotone.

Example using a portrait

For this final example I’ll show all the steps we’ve just covered using a portrait.  This is applicable to any people photos, you don’t need to make portraits to use this information.

Original colour image


Notice the last image where I’ve added in colour to the Highlights and how it completely changes the look of the image. The whites have a yellow tint now instead of a nice clean look. I personally prefer the third one but there are times I do use this option. Do what feels right for your image, you’ll know what to do.

A "duo" tone using different colours for the Highlights and Shadows. Shadow settings: Hue 232, Sat 70 – Highlight settings: Hue 52, Sat 37. I did move Balance to -27 to skew the colours more towards the Shadows as well.

What next?

As always I encourage experimentation.  If you have another way that you like better, that’s awesome!  Please share it with us if you will.  Another way to do some really quick B&W inside Lightroom is to find some good presets. There are literally tens of thousands of Lightroom Develop presets available for free on the internet.  Try a Google search for:   Free lightroom b&w presets.  Then just pick the ones you like and install them.

Now get out there and go make some images and let’s see what you can do in Black & White!

 

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

3 Tips for Better Black and White Conversion using Lightroom


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Using ND Filters with Strobes: Ep 212: Digital Photography 1 on 1

10 Jan

In this episode Mark Wallace shows us how to use ND filters in a studio environment. Mark will demonstrate how you can shoot with wide open apertures even with powerful studio strobes. Then Mark will show us how we can use a similar effect outside and use a studio strobe to overpower the sun.
Video Rating: 4 / 5

 
 

GPHOS – How to convert .mov to .avi file using Canon Utilities

06 Jan

IF YOU LIKE THE VIDEO – KINDLY PRESS SUBSCRIBE TO SUPPORT MY CHANNEL. THANKS. Tutorial on how to convert .mov files to .avi files using Zoom BrowserEx of Canon Utilities. This is the easiest way to convert your files. I’m not a pro about editing video. However, I hope this tutorial will somehow help you. Thanks for watching. 😀 Request from: My friend, Ronald (Advance Happy B-day) asked me how he can upload his .mov files to his FB. Here it is.
Video Rating: 5 / 5

 
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Using Robotics Sensor Triggers

01 Jan

This Tutorial shows you how to use Phidget’s light, infrared and pressure sensors to capture images with ControlMyNikon. ControlMyNikon allows you to remotely control your Nikon DSLR with your PC. For more information, check out www.controlmyikon.com

Nikon D300s

 
 

Using Sound Triggers

23 Dec

This Tutorial shows you how to use ControlMyNikon’s Sound Trigger to capture images when a sound is detected with a microphone. ControlMyNikon allows you to remotely control your Nikon DSLR with your PC. For more information, check out www.controlmyikon.com
Video Rating: 5 / 5

Just an unboxing of my new T2i

 
 

Using a Pro Speed Belt with a Compatible Backpack — Think Tank Photo

01 Dec

How to attach a Think Tank Photo Pro Speed Belt V2.0 to a compatible backpack. The Pro Speed Belt allows photographers to carry one or more Modular components on the belt, for rapid access to other gear, while actively shooting. This saves the time consumed by taking off the backpack to retrieve a different lens or accessory. The belt and components can be removed then stored in the backpack for traveling. For more information about the Pro Speed Belt V2.0, Think Tank Photo camera backpacks and other Think Tank Photo products, please click on one of the links below: Pro Speed Belt V2.0: www.thinktankphoto.com Think Tank Photo camera backpacks: www.thinktankphoto.com Modular Set: www.thinktankphoto.com Skin Set: www.thinktankphoto.com Think Tank Photo homepage: www.thinktankphoto.com
Video Rating: 5 / 5

artoftheimage.blogspot.com – Continuing with discussing David Hobby’s, the STROBIST, article “Stealing Flash,” and how to protect your digital camera gear and wireless remote lighting while your working in public areas like gyms, arenas, etc., David has a REALLY interesting self-defense plan to fend off would-be thieves and attackers using camera gear. You can check out the original article at David’s website http

 
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Using Image Watermarks In Lightroom

30 Nov

Custom lightroom image watermark opener1

The Watermarking feature in Lightroom was significantly overhauled in Lightroom 3. As a result you can now add sophisticated watermarks to your images on export either to disk or via the Print and other modules.

Not only can you add a text watermark to an image but you can also add an image watermark – and that’s what this post is all about – making and using images as watermarks in Lightroom 3 and Lightroom 4.

Create the Image

To use an image watermark in Lightroom you will need an image and for that you’ll need an image editor. You can use anything that can create .png images – Photoshop and Photoshop Elements are obvious contenders but basically any photo editor or painting program will do.

Unlike text watermarks you can’t set the color of an image watermark in the Watermark dialog so you need to get it right before you begin. For that reason I create two – one black and one white – which cover most situations.

Custom lightroom image watermark 1

I do this in Photoshop working on a transparent layer – the reason is that I want this transparency to appear in the watermark when it is placed over the image. So, even if I use a fill layer behind the watermark so I can see the design as I work, I’ll hide this before saving the image.

Custom lightroom image watermark 2

When saving the image I’ll save it as a .png format file – this flattens the image to a single layer but retains transparency – something that the .jpg format does not.

To create the image as a watermark open a module that has Watermarking such as the Print module. Click it to enable it and then choose Edit Watermarks from the dropdown list.

Custom lightroom image watermark 3

Click Graphic in the top right corner to select that as the Watermark Style. When prompted select the image to use. This image is dark so I chose the white version of the copyright watermark image.

If you cannot see the image, scroll down to the Watermark Effects area and adjust the Size so you can see the image. Set the desired size and placement using the Size, Anchor and Inset settings. Typically you will use the bottom left anchor point (or the bottom right) and move the image a little in from the edge of the photo.

Custom lightroom image watermark 4

Once you have the position and size correct you can save this as a Watermark you can use anytime in future by clicking the Custom dropdown list and choose Save Current Settings as New Preset and type a name for the preset.

Custom lightroom image watermark 5

In future you can select and use this watermark in any of the panels in Lightroom that support Watermarking such as the slideshow module here:

Custom lightroom image watermark 6

Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.

Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.

Using Image Watermarks In Lightroom



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Using Web Triggers

28 Nov

This Tutorial shows you how to use ControlMyNikon’s Web Trigger to capture images using an iPhone, smartphone or web browser. ControlMyNikon allows you to remotely control your Nikon DSLR with your PC. For more information, check out www.controlmyikon.com
Video Rating: 5 / 5

Sports photography with the Nikon D90 advanced DSLR.
Video Rating: 3 / 5

 
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** NIKON D70s PICTURES USING 18-70mm Kit lens – SLIDESHOW – MARCH 27th 2010 – DSLR CAMERA **

27 Nov

This is a video slide show of some pictures I took with my D70s, which was the successor to the D70. I got this camera a couple of weeks ago as a backup for my D90. I went to London yesterday and thought I would take some pictures and see how this 5 year old D70s performs. I was actually really pleased with its performance. Every picture that was taken was a handheld shot, and I used ISO 200 during the day, and ISO 800 for the night shots. The only lens used for all the pictures was the 18-70mm nikon kit lens. The D70s has been known to shoot 13 to 14 times what it’s been rated, some have even shot over 150000 shots with it and it’s still going. I have to say this camera is built like a tank.
Video Rating: 4 / 5

Nikon Coolpix L120 HandBDigital.com Video Review Bryant Park New York City, NY Specs: 14.1MP CCD Sensor 21x Wide-Angle 25-525mm (Equiv) Lens 5-Way VR Image Stabilization System 3″ High Resolution 921K-Dot Display Sensitivity to 6400 ISO 720p HD Video W/Stereo Sound Up to 15.3fps Sport Continuous Shooting Easy Auto Mode/Smart Portrait System In-Camera Editing Functions 17 Scene Modes Inc. Pet Portrait Mode H AND B DIGITAL 29 West 46th St (Between 5th & 6th Ave) 212-354-1341 HandBDigital.com/LensTesting

 
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Using a wired shutter release/remote trigger with the EasyTag GPS Module

25 Nov

www.easytagger.ca The EasyTag has a 2.5mm jack to pass-through remote triggers/shutter releases. This ensures that compatible Nikon DSLRs like the D200, D300/s, D700, D3s, D5000, D3100, D7000, D90, etc. do not lose any functionality when the EasyTag is plugged in, using the data connection. This gives the EasyTag a significant advantage over the di-GPS, Geometr or Nikon GP-1 modules. www.easytagger.ca There are wired, wireless and (wired) timer releases available. There is also a 10-pin adapter which allows the remote to be connected directly to Nikon 10-pin DSLRs such as the D200, D300/s, D700 and D2/3: www.easytagger.ca
Video Rating: 3 / 5

This is a selection of some of my Landscape and seascape images. Check out my site if you want to see more. If you are interested to learn how to capture such images then maybe one of my workshops is what you are looking for. Contact me at my website www.dannyirvine.com or join me on my facebook page http

 
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