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5 Tips for Using Risk Taking as a Tool for Better Photography

03 Apr

With the rising tide of enthusiast photographers and the ubiquitous camera phone, there is more competition for eyeballs than ever before in the photo industry. How can you ever stand out from the crowd to be noticed? The trick is both deceptively simple and incredibly complicated: take more risks. Great photographers rarely play it safe, but before you head into the world with reckless abandon, let’s dive into what kinds of risk taking is productive.

1 – Your camera is a tool, not a pet

You’ve received your very first, very shiny, very expensive DSLR kit. Your instincts are to cradle and protect the expensive piece of equipment. Don’t. While you shouldn’t fully submerge your camera, or throw it off the balcony and expect good results, coddling it like your newborn child won’t do you any good either. It’s a tool and is meant to be used out in the world. It should get a few scratches in the paint and some wear and tear on the grip. Take a look at the following images and ask yourself where the camera is.

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For the first two, the camera is sitting on the bow of a kayak roughly four inches above the water. For the third image, the camera is a half inch off the muddy ground. Water is often a camera’s worst enemy, but without the risk of the camera getting wet, these images would not be possible. Water is not your camera’s only enemy though. Dings and scrapes, dust, and even wild animals pose a threat.

That said, there are ways to be smart about risk taking and mitigating potential problems. For example, when kayaking you could store the equipment in a dry bag, so it is only exposed when you stop to take a photograph. You could have a friend kayak with you and help stabilize your kayak, or warn you when a large wave is coming. (It is recommended to do outdoor activities with a buddy anyway for general safety). You can use various coverings, coatings, and cases as well to protect your gear.

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You don’t even have to be in the water to expose your camera to harsh elements. The spray from Wli falls in Ghana was strong enough to reach me 300 meters away. I kept a light jacket in front of my camera until the right moment.

2 – Know your tools

In order to take risks in a smart fashion, it helps to know the limitations of your tools. Does your camera have dust or weather sealing? Does the lens? Did you remember to put a clear (UV) filter on the front of the lens to protect against the basic threats? Is the body primarily plastic? Does it have a metal frame? A quick visit to the manufacturer’s website or a websearch for your equipment’s user manuals should get you the information you need.

There are many more things to consider, but the point is to learn as much as possible about your kit. Your DSLR and lens may be weather sealed and can handle light rain but the audio recorder may not be and may wind up being the weak link.

It’s wise to know how to use your camera well. Often in risky situations you will want to expose your equipment to that risk for the least amount of time possible. The better you know your camera, the less time you’ll spend fiddling with settings. Be sure to practice using your equipment in a low-stress environment, before exposing yourself to a risky situation. Digital Photography School is a great resource for articles on the nitty-gritty workings of your camera, so you don’t have to travel far to get started mastering your gear.

3 – Do your homework on your subjects too

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Let’s say you have been given an assignment that involves getting into an occupied cage at the zoo. How do you prepare? It isn’t enough in this situation to know your gear alone. You need to learn about the animals you are interacting with, some basics on their behavioural cues, and what potential stressors may be present. Luckily in this situation you are likely to get help from the zoo’s staff; in fact, they are required to enter the enclosure with you. But be sure to meet with them prior, and take some time online or in a library to supplement your knowledge. Be sure to ask questions specific to your situation as well.

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Photo courtesy of Clare Hancock.

In this case, what do you do if an animal approaches you and grabs, bites, or otherwise latches onto the camera? It turns out in the case of lemurs, just hold still and they’ll lose interest pretty quickly. The point is don’t panic and don’t be afraid to ask questions, even if they sound far-fetched.

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What would you do in this situation? Photo courtesy of Clare Hancock.

In the same vein as asking questions to be prepared, don’t be afraid to ask questions during a shoot either. You are only expected to be an expert photographer. In this particular example, the zoo staff are there to help everything go smoothly. Don’t let pride prevent you from tapping into their expertise. Consider the photo above, I had no idea what to do when a wallaby and her baby decided I made a comfy resting place. I checked with the keepers to make sure there wasn’t any risk to myself or the wallabies. There wasn’t, so I continued to shoot from that position until she eventually hopped away.

Being informed is the best way to enter a potentially risky situation. The zoo session may seem specific, but consider what would go into photographing a tall ship setting sail, or snowboarders screaming down slopes, or even your own dog in your backyard. Snapping good images often involves getting in close, or shooting from a unique angle that could involve having a camera accidentally knocked out of your hands on a crowded ship deck, having snow sprayed onto your camera, or even having an excited dog slobber all over your equipment or tackle you. Do some homework, be aware of your surroundings, ask questions and you will have mitigated most of the riskiness.

4 – Taking risks in your career

Using risk as a tool in your career is not specific to photography, but it is especially important in this field. If you always use the same tried and true portrait poses, and standard three point lighting that you learned in your high school photo course, you are likely going to be stuck at a studio in the mall holding a stuffed giraffe in one hand and a remote trigger in the other, praying that baby Jesse stops crying. (If you work at one of these and enjoy your job, that is awesome and you are honestly a much more patient person than I). Most photographers I know have bigger dreams than this, whether it is running their own mall studio or becoming a successful commercial photographer. Unless you run into some magnificent stroke of luck and were born with real talent, this is going to a lot of time, more effort, and a few risks.

I am no Warren Buffett when it comes to business sense, but I can say the biggest jumps in my own career came from taking big risks. When former Ghanaian President John Atta Mills passed away in July of 2012, I was just coming out of graduate school and interning at the Daily Guide newspaper in Accra. President Mills was the first Ghanaian president to die in office and his state funeral was considered one of the most important stories in the region. I had just arrived in country, knew only what I had read about the culture and only had two weeks to convince my new, sceptical editor to let me be a part of the team covering the story. I worked very hard with my new coworkers, contributing to as many stories as possible, and hanging out with the reporters to learn about Ghanaian politics, history and culture.

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Two days before the funeral, I convinced my editor to let me go on the assignment. Going in I was scared. I felt like I could never be prepared enough, and doubted every decision I made during the assignment. Regardless, I took the risk of screwing up an important assignment, and managed to rise to a challenge. The images ran front page and an entire centrefold was dedicated to my images of the event. Moments like these demand taking risks. If you have ambitions beyond photography as a hobby, you will need to get used to going in over your head. Risk will always force you to be a better photographer.

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However, the risks you can take regarding your career can be mitigated to some extent as well. The key, as you already know, is being prepared. This is a much more abstract process compared to mitigating risks related to camera equipment. While some things are the same, – knowing your tools and subjects well enough to work efficiently – others go a little beyond the act of photography itself. They involve politics in your particular branch of the profession, and knowing just how far you can push yourself.

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As I eluded to earlier, I am not the kind of guy you will see doing family portraits or weddings. I am horrible at convincing the average person to smile or look natural. I simply am no good at those kind of portraits. That said, after I won my first photo award I ran out and bought a Vivitar flash, cloth backdrop and three hot lamps. I was convinced I was going to quit my job waiting tables and pay for my impending college career with my photographic talent. I was wrong… very wrong. I managed to perform poorly on three portrait sessions before realizing that my foray may have been a mistake, and I was out a few hundred dollars in studio gear.

I knew nothing about the family portraiture business. I didn’t do any research aside from reading a couple of gear reviews and really burned myself in the process. Worst of all I didn’t know my equipment very well. I had a total of one lesson in studio lighting under my belt at the time and may have purchased a book, that to this day, I have read a total of three pages of. I took a dumb risk and hurt my confidence and disappointed people in the process.

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Crappy portrait of Markus Sales

5 – When things go wrong

There is one catch to risk taking. What if it doesn’t pan out. You may end up with broken equipment, angry customers, or bodily injury. What now?

Broken equipment is relatively easy to deal with: mourn the loss of your trusted tool, then buy a new one. If you are worried about not being able to afford replacing equipment, talk to your insurance company about whether your homeowners or renters insurance will cover your gear outside your home. Specific camera (and commercial) insurance policies are available as well. Be sure to find out what is covered and how they handle claims.

Smoothing customer relations or repairing a career are tougher issues. Patience and good customer service skills will go a long way, but every case has to be approached individually. Giving a discount for a mediocre portrait shoot might work in one case, but blowing an expensive commercial shoot is going to take a whole different approach. I have been lucky enough that I haven’t had to do this in my own career, but I encourage joining professional associations and talking to other professional photographers to learn what consequences there might be, and how to recover from them.

Bodily injury is the worst on this list. If you are risking your life or serious injury for a photograph, STOP! No photograph is worth getting hurt or dying for. There has been a recent rash of people dying while taking selfies or trying to capture memories from crazy angles over the edge of a skyscraper. It doesn’t matter if it could be the best photo ever taken, this kind of risk is never worth taking in the first place. Broken cameras can be replaced, careers rebuilt, and customer relations smoothed over, but the best photo of your career is worthless if you die or are maimed in the process. Just don’t do it.

One final disclaimer

The nature of risk taking is that the result could be game changing good, or painfully bad. You can fail and fail hard. The advice given here is simply what I have learned over the course of my own career, and it may not apply to you at all. There is no guarantee that taking any kind of risk will result in a positive outcome. Ultimately, you must decide if the risks you take – if any – are worth taking. The outcomes of taking those risks will be entirely yours, so use your best judgment. If you do decide to take a risk, be smart about it and do everything in your power to lessen that risk. Best of luck out there.

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The post 5 Tips for Using Risk Taking as a Tool for Better Photography by Christopher Scotti appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Taking it easy: Canon EOS 80D shooting experience

25 Mar
All of the images and videos on this page were shot using the new EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS USM kit lens. ISO 100, 1/1250 sec, F5.6. Shot at 18mm.

The Canon EOS 80D is an enthusiast-level DSLR geared toward photographers looking for a capable stills and video camera. The 80D sports a brand new 24MP APS-C sensor, a 3″ articulating touchscreen, a new 45-point AF system (with dual pixel AF) and 1080/60p video capture capabilities. Like its predecessor, the camera has a weather-sealed construction and a nearly-identical body design.

I had the opportunity to test the 80D having just finished field testing the Sony a6300, a mirrorless camera which also sports a 24MP APS-C sensor and a similar launch price. On paper, the a6300 out-specs the 80D in many categories, like 4K video capture, 11 fps shooting and most notably, its 425-point AF system. But don’t fall into the trap of thinking specs alone make the a6300 a better camera. In hand, it feels as if your holding a small magnesium rectangle jam-packed with cutting-edge technology, but to some degree, the operation and menus feel like a work in progress. In contrast, holding the 80D feels like you’re holding the product of 20+ years of R&D. Which is to say: the 80D feels more refined in operation and more intuitive to use than the a6300.

Of course there are also quite a lot of other APS-C sensor cameras on the market that fall into a similar price range and class to the 80D. Its closest DSLR competitor is most likely the Nikon D7200 (though the Pentax K-3 II also comes to mind). Both the Nikon and the Canon offer very similar still and video specifications, though the D7200 does not have a touchscreen, nor does it offer an equivalent to Canon’s dual pixel AF. There’s also the EOS 7D Mark II, Canon’s top tier APS-C camera. It offers features generally associated with more pro-level cameras like Intelligent Tracking and Recognition (which the 80D does not). And while the 7D Mark II is priced higher than the 80D, it is interesting to note that the 80D uses a newer sensor that we’ve found offers much better dynamic range than previous Canon cameras, including the 7D II.

General camera ergonomics

The 80D is very easy to operate with a single hand. The grip is extremely comfortable, and at 1.8 lbs, the 80D shouldn’t break your back. I do have few small frustrations though: the AF-on button is located next to two other identically-sized buttons and is the most difficult, at least for me, to hit of the three. I also find the switch to lock the back control wheel, which by default is set to Exposure Compensation, can be bumped into the lock position far too easily. In fact, every single time I went to adjust my Exposure Comp., it was locked.

The 80D has an articulating touchscreen, which I used to frame this shot. ISO 100, 1/200 sec, F10. Shot at 24mm.

Finally, I’ve found that the video record start/stop button isn’t quite as sensitive as it should be. I actually missed a few clips because I hit the start button, thinking capture had begun, when in fact it had not.

Of course, it is much easier and quicker to point out frustrations in a camera’s ergonomics, than list everything the company did right. Overall the 80D is a well-designed camera with terrific ergonomics, sensibly-organized menus, and mostly-logical button placement. And unlike most mirrorless cameras, the battery life on the 80D is frankly, a breath of fresh air. A whole day of shooting stills and video (about 700 stills, and 35 videos, most about 30 secs in length) resulted in only a 1/4 drain on the battery.

Dynamic range

Canon’s large-sensor cameras are not exactly known for their dynamic range. Pushing the exposure on a Canon Raw file even a couple stops (or just turning on vignetting correction) can result in the shadow detail starting to fall apart. But the 80D uses a spanking new sensor that supposedly offers better dynamic range than past Canon release. But does it?

Yes it does! We ran the 80D through our exposure latitude and raw dynamic test and found that the new sensor is substantially better than previous Canon sensor in terms of dynamic range. It’s not quite on the same level as the Nikon D7200 or other cameras using recent Sony APS-C Sony sensors, but the improvement is definitely something to cheer about if you’re a Canon shooter.

Original exposure, gently edited in ACR. ISO 100 1/500 sec at F16. Exposure pushed +2.5 stops, Shadows pulled up +50 in Adobe Camera Raw.

The silhouetted image above on the left was processed through Adobe Camera Raw without adjusting the exposure, while the image on the right was pushed a full 2.5 stops. Have a look specifically at the areas in the image on the right that were previously in the shadows. While this isn’t a perfect example, it should give you an idea of what kind of dynamic range the 80D offers.

Video

In the demo above, I used AF-C and selected an AF point in the center of the frame. Hunting is minimal as I move from subject to subject and acquisition is reasonably fast.

It is very easy to shoot nice-looking video with the 80D. The touchscreen is an absolute pleasure for selecting focus points, and Dual Pixel AF allows for continuous focus during video capture. In use, it is excellent, with minimal to no hunting and fast acquisition. When using the widest AF area option, called ‘Auto selection: 45 pt AF,’ the camera will automatically look for faces in the scene and focus on them. If it finds no face, it will instead focus on the nearest object.

Video quality looks decent. It can’t touch the quality of footage coming from the likes of the a6300, but for most enthusiast shooters, the quality will be good enough. And the inclusion of both a mic and headphone jack should add to the camera’s video appeal.

Video shot hand-held in 1080/60p.

Unfortunately, several video making tools that seem to be par for the course when it comes to other manufacturers, are absent in the 80D, specifically: Focus peaking, zebra stripes and a clean-HDMI out option. There is also no C-Log gamma option (a very flat tone curve useful for color grading).

Auto ISO

This was shot after I pushed the 80D’s Auto ISO minimum shutter speed default to its fastest setting. Out of the box, when using Auto ISO, the 80D offers a shutter speed about equivalent to 1 over the focal length. However, in the menus, there is a slider to bias the minimum shutter speed by 1, 2 or 3 stops above default (as well as 1,2 and 3 stops below the default). You can also assign a physical shutter speed number to be the camera’s default. ISO 100, 1/400 sec, F7.1. Shot at 135mm.

The default Auto ISO shutter speed often was not fast enough for the scenarios I was shooting. At one point while field testing the camera, a humming bird flew right up to me and hovered mid air for long enough for me to bring the camera to my eye and fire a shot. Unfortunately, the 80D decided that 1/200 sec was the most appropriate shutter speed. Needless to say, the resulting shot was blurred.

Canon has recently been updating its Auto ISO implementations to make them fully programmable (a la Nikon and now Sony), and it’s great to see this update in the 80D. You have two ways to control your minimum shutter speed when using Auto ISO. You can either pick a physical shutter speed, ranging in full stops, or use a slider to bias the default shutter speed to faster or slower than the default. If you use Auto ISO, I strongly recommend the first thing you do when picking up the 80D is push the shutter default to a faster setting.

AF features

Shot using touch-to-focus. ISO 100, 1/200 sec, F5.6. Shot at 50mm. Cropped in slightly using ACR.

The Canon 80D features a brand new AF system and an increase in AF points over its predecessor, from 19 to 45. Coverage area has also been improved, and all of the points are cross-type. One of the most note-worthy features of the 80D’s AF system comes in Live View, which now offers continuous AF (called AI Servo). It is only the second Canon camera to do this (the Rebel T6s was the first), but the 80D’s Dual Pixel AF is far more capable than the Hybrid AF system found on the T6s. This feature can be used during still or video shooting and should prove especially useful on the video end. That said, we’re also hopeful that it can be used to reliably subject track in stills mode as well (initial impressions are positive, but more on that below).

The 80D’s touchscreen has both touch-to-shoot and touch-to-focus capabilities. In use, the touchscreen is just OK – its operation can be a bit laggy, especially if you are trying to quickly move your AF point. The camera does have a sensitivity slider, but even adjusting it to its most sensitive setting doesn’t seem to help the lagginess much. 

I was disappointed to find out that the touchscreen can not be used as an AF track pad when one’s eye is to the finder. Many camera companies have been including this feature (like Olympus in the PEN F and Panasonic in the GX8, and Nikon in the D5500) and it is extremely useful. A missed opportunity on Canon’s part for sure. To be fair, the 4-way controller on the back of the camera can be assigned to direct AF point selection (but it’s mushy and not well-positioned for quick thumb access with your eye to the finder). You can also use the AF Point Selection button, though I found it frustrating to use when shooting with a single AF point.

I also discovered that there is no way to use touch-to-shoot in continuous drive. Even if you have the camera set to continuous drive, it will simply ignore your selection and default to single frame advance mode (the use cases for this may be limited, but I did find myself in a scenario where touch-to-shoot + burst would have been helpful). In general, I found that using the FlexiZone-Single option, while tapping to specify the area, gave me the best results when using both touch-to-shoot and touch-to-focus.

AF real world impressions

Continuous AF (AI Servo) using a single point gave me the best hit rate, as long as kept my point over the subject. ISO 100 1/500 sec, at F8 (I probably should have used a faster shutter speed).

My initial impressions of the 80D’s AF capabilities are largely positive. I shot quite a bit using the camera in AI Servo mode using either a single point or the Zone AF area mode, with mostly excellent results. Zone AF can sometimes get confused as to which point(s) to use to stay on your subject, so single point is still most reliable. Subject tracking is particularly limited compared to the EOS 7D Mark II, the company’s priciest APS-C offering, because the 80D lacks Canon’s Intelligent Tracking and Recognition. Still, I wanted to get some real impressions of advanced subject tracking ability, so I set AF area to the entire frame (Multi-Area AF) with a manually selected initial point – where the camera automatically moves the initial AF point throughout the entire grid to stick to an initially targeted subject, no matter where it moves to within the frame.

When shooting with one’s eye to the finder, the 80D isn’t great at staying on a subject once it has been identified. This is partly due to the fact that being a DSLR, the 80D cannot not use its image sensor to track (except in Live View mode of course) and likely does not use its metering sensor, which is essentially a low resolution image sensor, either. Although I got lousy results in my initial tests, subject tracking in viewfinder mode is somewhat case specific and has the potential to work well for subjects on non-complex backgrounds, and particularly subjects well isolated in depth (distance) at longer focal lengths.

On the other hand, my experience trying subject tracking in Live View mode was much more positive. When using the touch LCD to subject track, one can simply tap the screen to identify a subject. I had the chance to use this method while shooting candids of friends. The 80D did a great job staying on a subject once identified, which isn’t very surprising: using the image sensor to identify, understand, and track your subject is more reliable than using only distance information to subject track. Furthermore, if you do not tap the screen to identify a subject right off the bat, the camera will settle for the nearest face it finds (as long as you’re in Face + Tracking mode).

Of course, using Live View (the touchscreen) to shoot a burst means you only get the stop-action-style playback of images when firing, which can make it difficult to follow your subject.

Also shot using AI Servo, this one using the Zone AF area, placed in the center of the frame. Overall I found using a single point gave me better results when using continuous focus. For the record, the little guy was cruising real fast! I saw him coming down the sidewalk out of the corner of my eye, and only had time to snap two frames; the first was a little blurry, the second (shown here) was sharp. ISO 100, 1/500 sec, F7.1. Shot at 135mm.

Of course, continuous AF and subject tracking aren’t the only things that matters in an autofocus system, sensitivity is also important. Canon states the 80D’s center AF point is sensitive down to -3EV, which should translate to responsive AF performance using the center point, even in very low light. I ran a quick test in our studio to see if this was the case. Using the EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 kit lens, and with all lights off except for a dimmed incandescent bulb, I pointed the 80D at out studio test chart. But not before first switching the lens to MF and throwing focus way off (I then switched it back to AF before shooting). With my eye to the finder, I acquired focus and fired a frame. I did this several times at both the wide end and the tele end of the lens’ zoom range. In both cases, the 80D was able to acquire accurate focus nearly instantaneously, which is impressive, especially considering the F5.6 max aperture at the tele end.

And to give you a sense of how dim the above scenario was, when I was testing the low light AF performance at the kit lens’ widest end, I was shooting at ISO 16,000, at 1/30 sec F3.5, which gave me a proper exposure. This is good news for low light shooters, like myself. I’m especially fond of music photography and its encouraging to know that the AF system will perform, even in some of the lowest light scenarios the camera is probably capable of shooting an image in. For instance, with a 24mm F1.4 lens attached, I should be able to shoot at ISO 12,800 1/100 sec F1.4 while still enjoying accurate and responsive AF performance (well, as long as I’ve microadjusted).

The takeaway

It can be hard to get excited about enthusiast level DSLR updates. But in the case of the 80D, enough has been improved upon over its predecessor that while looking nearly identical, the 80D truly is a whole new camera (not just a granular update).

It offers reasonable specs, an easy-to-use interface (the touchscreen adds quite a bit to the camera’s ease of use) and a familiar design. Toss in the fact that it offers maybe the best dynamic range of any Canon DSLR to date, and the 80D has even more appeal. For Canon system users, specifically enthusiasts considering an upgrade from either a Rebel or an older camera, there is an awful lot to like about the 80D.

ISO 12,800 is a pretty high ISO, especially for an APS-C camera. This images was processed through ACR, but I’m fairly impressed with how good the high ISO image quality appears to be. But more testing is needed! ISO 12,800, 1/60 sec, F4. Shot at 27mm.

Canon EOS 80D Sample Gallery

Please do not reproduce any of these images on a website or any newsletter / magazine without prior permission (see our copyright page). We make the originals available for private users to download to their own machines for personal examination or printing (in conjunction with this review), we do so in good faith, please don’t abuse it.

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Canon EOS 80D real world samples

42 images • Posted on Mar 24, 2016 • View album
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8 Tips to Improve Your Photography by Creating Instead of Taking Photos

22 Feb

If you’re like most photographers you use your camera to capture a moment; you see an interesting subject, so you photograph it to the best of your ability. But a worthwhile experiment is to try staging a photo. Rather than waiting for all the elements to perfectly arrange themselves, take control and create the moment yourself.

It’s an important lesson in thinking about the story and composition, and it’ll improve your photography in no time. I spent three years photographing everything in sight, but it was only after taking control of my images that I was able to turn my hobby into a profession.

Field of Dreams

Creating a photo can be as simple, or elaborate, as you wish. If you’re interested in street photography, this could involve asking an interesting stranger to pose in a particular place or way. For macro photography, setting up a backdrop behind a pretty flower can make the subject more dynamic. For portraits it could be a photo of your child dressed in their favourite costume, acting out a scene in your backyard. As long as you have actively directed the subject in some way.

Elements to consider are:

  1. Story
  2. Subject
  3. Setting and location, era, time of day
  4. Props
  5. Wardrobe
  6. Pose
  7. Lighting
  8. Framing / Composition and angle, lens used

Let’s break these down one by one.

#1 – Story

What’s happening in your photo? What’s your subject or character doing? A story isn’t always necessary, but having answers to these questions certainly helps make it more engaging, and gives you an idea of what extra elements can help enrich the story.

In “Return of the Sword” (below) I was playing with the idea of King Arthur’s Excalibur, and I wanted my character’s reflection to look as if it were offering her the sword. To be able to tell this story I needed to have the right prop, costume, and location, to help the viewer understand what was happening, and associate it with the original story.

Return of the Sword

#2 – Subject

Who is your character? What physical attributes do they need to have? If you have a willing family member or friend on hand, that’s great! Otherwise you can recruit models through places like ModelMayhem. However, your subject needn’t be a person, an object or an animal are fine too.

I shoot self-portraits, primarily because it’s convenient, but I’m certainly no classic beauty, so I try to disguise my face as much as possible. In “Red Runs” below, I wanted to show Red Riding Hood running through a forest, followed by a wolf, so my character needed a red cape and blonde hair. This was easily achieved with the help of a blonde wig and my dog, Koda.

Red Runs

#3 – Setting

Where and when is your story taking place? To find interesting locations, assess your local area for unique landmarks. Use Google Maps to discover what’s nearby, then use your car and your feet to explore further. If your goal is to photograph an interesting insect, your where might be in front of some black cardboard to cut out the background clutter, and your when might be early morning when the light is soft and appealing.

In “Siren’s Sorrow” below, I used an impressive local relic, the Gayundah Shipwreck, to tell the story of a regretful mermaid. I shot at sunset to add interest to the sky, and I wanted the time period to be non-specific, so I was sure not to include any objects in the shot, that would anchor it in time. There were many walkers passing by, and an active construction site overlooking the area, but you’d be surprised how quickly you stop being self-conscious when you start doing self-portraits.

Siren s Sorrow

#4 – Props

Having your subject interact with something will make your shot more interesting and further your story. You can buy props from cheap used clothing shops, eBay, or just use things you have lying around the house. If you’re going for something simple, spraying water on a flower adds interest, as does adding people to a landscape.

In “The Blue Girl” I wanted to tell the story of a girl who had cried for so long, that she filled a room with tears, and turned it into an ocean. I placed polyfill behind her head for the clouds, and added birds and a friend’s model ship, to give interest to the scene.

The Blue Girl

#5 – Wardrobe

What would your character be wearing? I have a rack full of costumes, specifically to be used in photoshoots, that I’ve bought from eBay and op shops, but you needn’t get this involved. My main considerations are usually whether the outfit suits the story, and if its colour will contrast with the surroundings, to make it stand out. If my face will be seen, I generally wear basic make-up I’ve applied myself.

In “Dance of the Jacarandas” I used a $ 30 wig from eBay, and a $ 5 dress I bought at a local theatre’s costume sale. The dress was the perfect colour and shape, to make my character look like a Jacaranda flower.

Dance of the Jacarandas

#6 – Pose

What would your character naturally be doing in their story? Are they powerful or submissive? I tend to shoot the main pose, and then do a few variations so I have options to work with.

In “I Tried to Drown My Sorrows”, I wanted to show a girl who looked like she’d fallen into a glass. The pose had to be compact to fit in the glass, yet rigid to show the shock of the fall. I did this by jumping around in my backyard, then flipping the image upside down so I was falling instead of jumping. The movement caused by jumping makes the pose more dynamic and my hair look like it’s floating.

I Tried to Drown My Sorrows

#7 – Lighting

Lighting can be tricky, and expensive, so it’s always best to start out with natural light, positioning your subject so the light sculpts their features. Shoot early, or late in the day, and aim for overcast or cloudy days to avoid harsh shadows (unless that’s what you want). You can start experimenting cheaply with lamps and candles.

I usually like to work with natural, overcast lighting, because it makes compositing easier. But, in “Self-Destruct” I wanted the character to look as if she were burning the world down, so I shot as the sun was rising which would make the landscape a warm orange.

Self Destruct

#8 – Framing

Do you want a wide shot to see the location, or a tight shot to really focus on your subject? Do you want to shoot from low down to make them look powerful, high up to make them look submissive, or straight on to let the image alone tell the story? Do you want the whole scene in sharp focus, or do you want the background to be blurry?

I shot the three elements (sky, character, flowers) of “Time Flies” straight on, so they were easy to composite together. I cropped the image so the girl filled the frame, but removed her face to add mystery to the image. The loosely pointed hand directs the eye around the scene.

Time Flies

Summary

When planning your image, try sketching out your idea beforehand, as this helps you visualize what it will look like, and if any extra elements are needed to strengthen your story. My images often take on a life of their own, different from my original concept, so don’t get too disheartened if your shoot doesn’t work out. You’ll still have learned a ton of things from the experience that you can use next time.

Naturally your concepts don’t need to be as involved, or as heavily Photoshopped as mine, but I’m certain you’ll find the process of creating something from your imagination incredibly fun and rewarding. I’d love to see the results of your own staged shoots, please share in the comments below.

Rosewater

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Fujifilm X70 Shooting Experience: Taking it to the streets

13 Feb

Fujifilm X70 Shooting Experience

The first thing you’ll notice about the Fujifilm X70 is that it looks an awful lot like an X100T. The second thing you’ll notice is how similar some core specifications are to an established cult classic among street photographers, the Ricoh GR II. And despite featuring retro-inspired dials-on-dials design coupled with a 16MP APS-C sensor and 28mm equiv. F2.8 lens, the X70 turns out to be very distinct from both of those cameras in real-world use.

Basics and Handling

The X70’s X-Trans APS-C CMOS sensor is lifted from the X100T and offers the same 16.3MP resolution and hybrid AF system. The lens is new though – it’s a fixed 18.5mm (28mm equiv.) F2.8 prime with two aspherical elements tucked behind a 9-bladed aperture diaphragm. Exposure is taken care of courtesy of a leaf shutter, allowing for near-silent operation, and if for some reason you need to be even quieter, the electronic shutter goes all the way to 1/32,000. That’s a good thing for general daytime shooting as well, since the X70 doesn’t get a built-in ND filter like the X100-series.

Fly by night. SOOC JPEG, Classic Chrome mode. Photo by Carey Rose. F4 | 1/60 | ISO 200

The buttons and dials on the X70 leave a little to be desired. For the most part they function just fine, but the dials feel a little less-than-premium: kind of a halfway point between the X-A / X-M and X100-series of cameras. The buttons have positive feedback, but are a little too flush with the body. In fact, though you can reassign the movie button to something else, it’s so flush that it’s incredibly difficult to press. I’ve found that it’s easiest to ignore it. Also, because the screen protrudes a bit when folded against the body, it gets in the way of you pressing the left-most button on the four-way controller. The playback buttons might seem oddly placed on the top of the touchscreen, but they actually work well there.

All-in-all, though, the act of controlling core settings on the X70 is very similar to the experience of using the X100T, which is to say it works both very quickly and very well.

One-man dance party. SOOC JPEG using Monochrome mode. Photo by Carey Rose. F5.6 | 1/60 | ISO 1000

The X70’s rubberized front and rear grips are grippy and well-sculpted, and the camera feels comfortable and secure even in one hand. That said, the aperture control ring around the lens and the articulating touchscreen encourage two-handed operation.

Performance

But using two hands won’t slow you down with the X70. In fact, not much will. The 0.5-second startup time (high performance mode) of the X70 means that the camera is ready to shoot very quickly. This is about three times faster to start up than the GR II and means that subjectively, the X70 just feels more responsive when shooting out and about.

Play time. Processed to taste from Raw using the Pro Neg Standard color profile in ACR. Photo by Carey Rose. F2.8 | 1/125 | ISO 200

Focus times in Single-AF for the X70 are also on the sprightly side (at least for Fujifilm). The hybrid AF system does usually undergo a slight hunt before locking focus, but the live view never freezes up. Of course, street shooters will miss a thorough implementation of snap focus, but Single-AF was usually fast enough that we didn’t miss it anyway.

So while overall Single-AF speed is good, accuracy tended to vary more than we’d like. The focus would sometimes shift slightly in frames taken in immediate succession, even in daylight. To be fair, I found this mostly when shooting with the contrast-detect-only AF points near the edge of the frame. Your mileage may vary. This focus shifting didn’t affect my images much for web viewing, but I definitely noticed it on even a moderate-sized monitor.

The combination of close focus and a mild wide angle mean you can get pretty close to your subject, have some background isolation, and still have some context in the scene overall. SOOC JPEG using Classic Chrome mode. Photo by Carey Rose. F5.6 | 1/125 | ISO 1250

Continuous AF isn’t really a strong point for cameras of this general type and price point. With the X70 in single-point AF-C mode, you’ll get some lag if your subject is too quick, along with a whole lot of hunting. AF-C + Zone, which uses the PDAF area in the center of the frame works better, but the PDAF area is too small for really meaningful subject tracking. AF-C + Wide / Tracking does a reasonably good job of identifying the subject to track, but you’ll often get excessive and incessant hunting behind and in front of the desired subject. This was noticeable even if the subject wasn’t moving.

I ended up using the X70 in the same way as I use other Fujifilm cameras – in AF-S mode. 

The First Fujifilm Touchscreen

What really sets the X70 apart from both the X100T and the GR II is its tilting touchscreen, a first on any Fujifilm X-series camera. Sure, it’s made it really easy for me to take unflattering couch selfies, but it mostly makes for a very discreet shooting experience. Using the X70 with the screen as a waist-level finder, you can touch to acquire focus anywhere in the frame and capture your scene without ever lifting your head. Uninterested passers-by will assume you’re texting or maybe fiddling with dials on your hipster film camera, and if someone does actually pay you some attention, it just looks like you’re going a little heavy on the chimping.

Just chimping, bro. Processed to taste in Raw using the Monochrome preset in ACR. Photo by Carey Rose. F5.6 | 1/60 | ISO 400

The tilting screen also helps when it comes to getting the most out of the 28mm field of view that the X70 offers. Unlike a 35mm or a 50mm, a 28mm focal length requires some careful attention to foreground and background elements to keep your images from feeling too flat. Being able to easily frame subjects from ground-level or above my head helped me get a little more accustomed to 28mm, a focal length I normally tend not to gravitate towards.

Image Quality

The sensor inside the X70 is quite literally nothing new. Though this 16.3MP X-Trans sensor is getting a little long in the tooth, overall dynamic range and noise performance are still very good, and as we’d expect, very comparable to the closely-related 16MP sensor in the GR II. We prefer the rendering from Fujifilm’s X-Trans sensor in JPEG mode, but Raw files from the more conventional filter array in the GR are easier to handle. 

Camouflage. Processed to taste from Raw using the Pro Neg Standard preset in ACR. Photo by Carey Rose. F2.8 | 1/60 | ISO 1000

The lens on the X70 though is an all-new design, but in both the studio and the real world, we found the lens on our particular X70 to be noticeably less sharp than that on the GR II. Of course, this could be an outlier (we are using a very early production model camera) but we’ll keep an eye on it and do a control test with another sample as soon as we can. 

It’s worth noting that the lens on the X70 doesn’t offer a dedicated macro mode. It doesn’t really need to. The close focus distance of 10 cm (~4 in) allows you to get a little more creative with your compositions as well as get some reasonable subject separation despite the vaguely unimpressive maximum aperture.

Overall Impressions

It’s time for a talk. SOOC JPEG, shot in monochrome mode. Photo by Carey Rose. 1/60 | F2.8 | ISO 2500

Time to be brutally honest. The spec sheet on the Fujifilm X70 isn’t all that exciting. We’ve seen the sensor, processor and autofocus system before. The lens, a new design, only opens to F2.8. It’s appreciably smaller than an X100T, but is more ‘coat pocket’ than ‘jeans pocket.’

In spite of all of this, the Fujifilm X70 is a thoroughly enjoyable and engaging camera to use. Full disclosure: I feel the same way about the GR II, but using it is a completely different experience. If you have a GR II and like it, there’s really not enough of a reason to dump it for the X70. If you like your X100-series but were looking into a more portable option like the GR II, the X70 is definitely worth a look. Strictly speaking, these two cameras are capable of achieving very similar results. But as the files between them have their own unique signature, so does the handling, and handling is a very personal matter indeed.

So in the end, is there room for two similarly-specced street-focused APS-C shooters in the marketplace? Time will tell, but with the X70, Fujifilm has created a compact, responsive camera that in terms of both specification and design, is greater than the sum of its parts.

Additional Content

Fujifilm X70 Updated Samples Gallery

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Studio Test Scene Comparison

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Why Taking Pictures of Your Pets Will Help Make You a Better Photographer

27 Jan

If you have a pet, it may stand to reason that you already point your camera at it a fair amount. Why not? Pets, whether they are cats, dogs, or even chinchillas, tend to be photogenic. Beyond that, as a photographer, your pet is a subject you already share a strong emotional bond with, so it’s only natural to take a few snapshots along the way.

pet-photography-to-improve-camera-skills-9914

As a photographic genre, pet photography can go well beyond that of the simple snapshot. If you start to dissect the various disciplines it requires, you may notice that it involves a broader spectrum of skill sets than many other kinds of photography. From lighting, to camera control, to managing a difficult subject, photographing your pets can help you learn, and reinforce a great deal of camera craft that can be transferred across many other genres.

The important factor here is that your subject, your pet, is generally far more accessible to practice with than other subjects, such as people.

Even if you think pet photography isn’t something you’re ultimately interested in, this article is intended to demonstrate the skills and disciplines you can hone on pets, and then transfer effortlessly to other genres.

Camera craft

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If you’re new to photography, this is the most important point. Things like aperture, shutter speed, and ISO all need relentless practice and reinforcement when you’re learning your way around the camera. Sure, you could just use an apple on a table, but having a moving subject will force you to act quicker, and make decisions on the fly. This kind of mastery over your camera will allow you to react faster to any changes in your subject, and will allow you to catch many images you may otherwise have missed while fiddling with the dials.

Camera on hand

One of the most given pieces of advice to photographers is to always have your camera with you. It’s good advice, but it’s not easy to implement. By dedicating yourself to photographing your pets, you’ll already be taking a step in the right direction. This is especially true if you have a dog that you walk regularly. Just make sure the camera goes with you on your walks, and you’ll be ready for any opportunity that presents itself, including ones that don’t involve your pet.

As a bonus, dog walking is an excellent excuse to be out during golden hour every day.

Patience

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Photographing pets is hard. This difficulty has nothing at all to do with any technical skills with the camera. Animals tend to be impatient, disinterested, distractible, and sometimes skittish. With the exception of reasonably well-trained dogs, you will probably have a hard time getting most other animals to do what you need. Just imagine trying to give an iguana commands.

The key here is patience. Often you will have to wait frustratingly long periods of time before a shot presents itself. By understanding this, you can focus your energy on the shot when it does appear, rather than the time leading up to it. It is also usually better to wait for something natural to happen, than to force something artificial.

This kind of patience can take a while to develop, but it is a high value skill that transfers well across the photographic disciplines. Your wildlife photography, portraits (especially child portraits), street photography, and sports photography would all benefit from this trait.

Unpredictability

pet-photography-to-improve-camera-skills-0113

Animals are unpredictable. This is great news if you’re trying to hone your skills. Leveraging that unpredictability as a learning tool will allow you to react to different situations much faster. This could be as simple as pumping up the ISO without thinking about it, or even swapping lenses in seconds without a thought.

The best part is that it’s this unpredictability that often leads to the most interesting photos, or at least the funniest.

Lighting

Whether it’s natural or artificial, lighting is probably the most complex and multifaceted of the photographic skill sets. While not difficult, there is a lot to it, and it takes a significant amount of time to learn, and then master.

With a pet, you have constant access to a test subject for any new lighting technique you want to try. If something isn’t right, you can take your time and alter things as you need, without having to worry about taking up someone else’s time.

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Individual lighting techniques tend to work as well with animals as they do with people. Once you have a setup the way you want it, often all you will need to do to switch to a human subject, is raise the lights up. If you’re using natural light, you wouldn’t even need to do that.

In the end

There is a lot of contention out there about whether or not photographers should share photos of their pets. That’s up to you, nobody else. Share them or not, as long as you’re putting the hours in and getting the experience, that’s all that matters.

Hopefully you can see how dedicating time to photographing your pets can help you to improve a broad set of skills simultaneously. By removing accessibility issues and keeping costs minimal (a bag of treats is a cost, right?) you can ramp up the time you spend practicing, and reach the top of the learning curve in no time.

If nothing else, can spending some extra time with your pet be a bad thing?

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10 Tips for Taking Stunning Winter Portraits of Your Kids

03 Dec

Just because it’s winter doesn’t mean we can only shoot indoors. It may be cold (and rainy if you’re in London) most days, but when the winter sun shows its face, it fills the earth with a beautiful warm glow, especially late in the day. This bring us to what is known as the golden hour – typically about an hour before sunset. The further you are from the equator, the more time you would need, in my case about 1 – 1.5 hours, before sunset.

Winter portrait1

Here are my 10 top tips on how to get stunning winter portraits of your own kids:

#1 Choose the right day and time

Choose a sunny day and plan to get to your shooting location a good hour or so before sunset.

#2 Dress them warmly and make it fun

Wrap your children up nice and toasty so they won’t complain. Tell them you are taking them out for one hour to the park or the playground (or your chosen location) but that you would like to take a few photos of them before you get to the actual promised site. The easiest for us was the playground, as we have to walk about 10 minutes from the entrance to the park to get to there. It is a good idea to choose a halfway point to stop.

Winter portrait3

#3 Have warm beverages during or after the session

Either bring a snack or warm drinks in a thermos (keep it light and simple though), promise to take them for a nice warm drink in a nearby cafe after your little trip to the playground, or make them hot chocolates when you get home (whatever works for you).

#4 Find the good light and start shooting

Halfway to the playground, your kids would already have been having fun running and chasing each other. Remind them of the photos you want to take, and show them the light is so beautiful and perfect. Ask for their suggestions where you could stop and take some nice picture. Make sure there is light coming from one side, but that they are fully in the shade of a tree (open shade) to avoid hotspots and mottled faces.

Winter portrait2

#5 Be fast

Keep it quick! Kids get bored if you take too long so just aim for a few portraits. Ask them to stand, cuddle and tickle, or make each other laugh, swap places, do their own poses and click away like nobody’s business.

Techie tips: If shooting in semi-automatic mode, choose a wide aperture or set it to Aperture Priority (and choose a large aperture, small f-number) so you get the blurry background effect. Always focus on the child’s eyes if possible.

Winter portrait5

#6 Use backlight to your advantage

Shoot with the kids backlit. The best time to do this is during the golden hour. The sun is low, the sky is a reddish blue and the light is softer, more diffused, and indirect.

Shooting backlit is really quite a difficult technique which requires some mastering. This is when the sun or light source is in front of your camera, and behind your subject. The late sun gives stunning soft light, that illuminates your child’s hair or clothing like it has just been kissed by the sun.

Winter portrait4

You would also need either a really wide aperture, a flash, or a reflector to bring light back into your child’s face. A reflector can be a large white/silver/gold sheet that you angle towards their face, to bounce the light back into it. Or, you can choose a location with a natural reflector such as a white, or light coloured wall, facing the sunset and position your child in front of it, at an angle, so that part of their face gets the reflected light. I suggest a wide aperture for portraits as that helps give a nice glow to the skin, spot metered, and focused on the eyes.

#7 Go for lens flare

This is really quite difficult as you don’t want to be looking straight at the sun. When you see the sun’s rays streaming through the viewfinder of your camera, that’s a sure sign that you are capturing flare. Flare floods your camera with light and everything else becomes a muddy, hazy silhouette. So try to get only a very small bit of flare right at the top or side of the viewfinder, and you will still get some good details, rather than a completely hazy image, devoid of any definition or detail.

Winter portrait6

#8 Embrace the imperfections

From personal experience, my imperfections, mistakes, and lack of skills fuel creativity. So don’t be afraid to make mistakes and have imperfections; they are a blessing. Use them and learn from them.

Winter portrait7

#9 Capture some scene details after the portraits are done

When the portraits are done, capture some contextual details such as the sky, trees, plants, grass, flowers, etc. Years down the line, when you look back at these photographs, details will help you remember the mood, the time, and the emotions of that day. Now that there’s no need to rush and the kids are playing, take your time and choose which details grab you, and take your breath away.

Techie tips: Don’t forget to change your aperture when shooting the sky and trees to a much smaller one, in this case around f/5.6 or smaller. I find that while you can shoot wide opened it is more prone to have chromatic aberration than if you shoot at a smaller aperture. Really, it’s personal preference, but this is what I recommend.

Winter portrait10

#10 Last but definitely not least, reward and celebrate

Promise your kids not just the playground, but extra treats like snacks and hot drinks, and even a small surprise. It reinforces having a photoshoot as a positive experience, and ends it on a happy note. Then top it with a movie night at home!

Have you done any winter portraits of your kids? Please share your images and any other tips you have in the comments below.

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3 Tips for Taking Photos of Flowers

16 Oct

Flowers are everywhere, and sometimes just the thought of going out to take pictures of their pretty petals can seem downright cliché, because so many people do it. However, one reason flower photography is so popular is because these kinds of pictures can capture incredible beauty, without a great deal of effort. It’s fun to go outside and document the incredible array of colors that can be found in flowers, but it’s just as common to look at your photos later and discover that they might not be as good as you had hoped.

Fortunately there are a few easy steps you can take to not only improve your own flower photography, but help you get out and enjoy the beauty of nature while you’re at it.

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50mm f/1.8, 1/640 second, ISO 200

Everyone has their own unique style when it comes to photography, and taking pictures of flowers is no exception. Some people like flowers in isolation, whereas some like to see a whole field of blossoms in one shot. Some like to use techniques such as over-saturation or selective coloring, while others find these approaches distasteful. Therefore the following tips are not to be considered universal, or the be-all-end-all when it comes to taking pictures of flowers. They are a few lessons I have learned over the years that work for me, and hopefully they will give you something to think about the next time you step out to capture the beauty of nature.

Give your image a clear focal point

All good photos have a subject, or something on which the viewer’s attention is to be fixed. Some pictures can have multiple subjects, but rarely will you find a good image (flower or otherwise) with no subject at all. Where flowers are concerned, you might want to focus on just one flower, or have your viewers see many of them at once, but at the end of the day it should be readily apparent to anyone who sees your photo just what they are supposed to be looking at.

For example, the following image is decent, but as a viewer it’s difficult to notice the flower in the center amidst all the other blooms in the background. In essence, there is no one clear focal point even though there is a flower in the center of the frame.

3-tips-flower-photos-dof-wide

50mm f/4.8, 1/60 second, ISO 100

There are several things that can be done to fix the problem, but one of my favorite techniques is to simply use a wider aperture on my lens. I re-shot the same image using a much bigger aperture, which resulted in a shallow depth of field, rendering the flower in focus while the rest of the background shows up as a silky smooth blur. Looking at the second image, there is no doubt at all as to what the subject of the photo is, and what viewers are supposed to focus their attention on.

f/1.8, 1/350 second, ISO 100

50mm f/1.8, 1/350 second, ISO 100

Another way to make sure your image has a clear focal point is to utilize colors that complement or contrast with one another. The purple flowers in the image below stand out because they contrast quite nicely with the green background, which draws the viewer’s attention immediately and creates a nice focal point for the picture as a whole.

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50mm f/1.8, 1/200 second, ISO 100

You can use multiple techniques to achieve the desired effect, such as the picture below of an orange lily that stands out clearly from the background thanks to contrasting colors, while also using a wide aperture to make the background appear blurrier. Be careful not to use an aperture that is too wide, though: depth of field can be a fickle mistress, and shooting at f/1.8 or f/1.4 might seem like a good idea, until you realize that only half of your flower is in focus and the rest is a fuzzy mess.

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50mm f/2.8, 1/400 second, ISO 200

This last picture (below) is similar to the one above, but ultimately fails because there is no obvious focal point. Notice how the flower itself almost blends in with the background, and the inclusion of two additional blossoms just behind the red one and in the bottom corner of the frame. These problems cripple the image and keep it firmly in my “Rejected” category in Lightroom, but I’m using it here as an example of what not to do.

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50mm f/1.8, 1/1000 second, ISO 200

I could have easily fixed this picture by looking at the flower from a different perspective, but alas, I did not and am left with an image that is almost unusable because the subject, what should be the focal point, blends in so much with the rest of the image that it’s difficult for the viewer to know what to see. Finding a clear focal point for your images might take a bit of practice, but the results will be well worth your efforts.

Find the right camera angle

It’s not uncommon to see people taking pictures of flowers with their cameras pointed down from eye level. While doing so may produce decent results from time to time, you will often find that selecting a different angle will yield much more interesting results. The red blossom in the picture below was a few feet off the ground so I did what most people would do: I pointed my camera down and pressed the shutter button.

f/1.8, 1/320 second, ISO 100

f/1.8, 1/320 second, ISO 100

There’s a couple of things wrong with this picture, but to me the most critical problem is that it’s just not very interesting. Looking at flowers from your normal eye level can sometimes produce pleasing photos, but often you will get better results if you move around a bit, and seek out a more interesting angle. After taking the initial picture I crouched down and shuffled among the plants for a bit until I found a better perspective from which to shoot the photo.

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While not perfect, this is certainly a much better composition than the original shot, and it shows the flower in a whole new light. You can not only see more detail on the petals, but it stands out more from the background, and even utilizes a bit of foreground elements to add depth. The drop of water on the left side which is an afterthought in the original, is now featured quite prominently, and adds a nice accent to the rich red tones of the flower petals. All this was made possible because of a quick and simple change in my perspective. While this doesn’t always guarantee better photos it is a fun way to try something new, and even explore a bit more of your surroundings than you otherwise might.

Shooting macro-style pictures is another fun way to get creative with choosing the angles on your shots, provided you are willing to look for some unusual perspectives. My cousin Beth took the following picture of a cosmo flower with nothing more than her iPhone 5s, and a $ 50 Olloclip lens attachment, that lets her get extraordinarily close-up photos of just about anything. By shooting from a creative perspective instead of straight down, and using complementary colors of yellow and purple, she was able to take a gorgeous picture that might otherwise have looked quite mundane and ordinary. Her Instagram account is filled with images just like these that she took with her phone, which also illustrates that you don’t need to spend a great deal of money to get incredible photos of flowers.

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Compose with the whole scene in mind

Taking good flower pictures is about more than just a few pretty petals, but everything in front of and behind them as well. Finding creative ways to avoid conflicting colors between your subject and the background or foreground is nice, but you can step things up a notch by actively using these elements to enhance your shots.

For example, I had many options available when I took the following shot of some yellow kosmeyas. I could have just focused on the flower in the foreground, but by taking all the other elements of the scene into account, I was able to create a much richer and more interesting picture. I shot into the early morning sun, before the dew had evaporated, so I could make creative use of backlighting, and was so pleased with the result that a large print of this is now hanging in my living room.

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50mm f/2.8, 1/750 second, ISO 100

Even the background elements themselves can add interesting colors and patterns that you might not otherwise consider, as long as you pay attention when shooting, and use a careful eye with regard to composition. As I took the photo below, I saw a sidewalk running through the background, so I spent several minutes not just adjusting my camera settings, but also looking at the sidewalk and using that as an intentional compositional element. I like the way it cuts horizontally through the image and serves to accentuate the oranges in the flower at the center.

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50mm f/1.8, 1/8000 second, ISO 100

I want to leave you with one final example when I did not use this technique, and was quite disappointed with the photo that I almost got. Several months ago I spent a while following a butterfly around on a sunny day. When it finally landed on a flower and let me get close enough to take a photo, I eagerly snapped away without taking the rest of the scene into account.

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50mm f/2.8, 1/3000 second, ISO 200

If only I had scooted mere inches to the right I would have isolated the flower and the butterfly against a nice green background, but instead I did not take the whole scene into account, and got an image with no clear focal point and a big splotch of blurry orange right behind my subjects. I could have used the background elements to my advantage, but instead I was careless and overeager. This was actually a good learning experience for me though, as it helped me take much better photos in the time since.

As I mentioned at the outset, these are just a few examples and tips that you could employ to get better flower pictures but I’m curious to find out what has worked for you. What are your favorite tips and tricks to get better images of flowers? Leave your thoughts in the comments below.

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Work It! A Guide to Taking Astounding Portraits

28 Sep

People are beautiful, and as photographers we have the ability to show that in creative ways!

Photojojo reader and super talented portrait photographer, Hannah Arnzen, has put together her very best tips for snapping portraits.

Read her advice on what it takes before, during and even after a shoot to snap the perfect portrait.

Take it away Hannah…

(…)
Read the rest of Work It! A Guide to Taking Astounding Portraits (509 words)


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Taking Their Lumps: 12 Bitter Sweet Abandoned Sugar Mills

14 Sep

[ By Steve in Abandoned Places & Architecture. ]

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Obesity epidemic notwithstanding, the world boasts more abandoned sugar mills than you can shake a peppermint stick at.

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The former Delta Sugar Company mill in Clarksburg, Yolo County, California was constructed between 1934 and 1936… it took two years because the mill was transported by railroad, piece by piece, from its original location in Utah. By the early 1990s the mill became uneconomical to operate and in 1993 it was closed.

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After lying abandoned for over 7 years, the “Old Sugar Mill” began to show some signs of life when some sections were upcycled into a grape-crushing and wine-tasting facility for several local wineries. Kudos to Flickr user Mark Brooks (cal_gecko), who exquisitely photo-documented the complex in late July of 2010.

Falling Like A Domino

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The iconic Domino Sugar Refinery in Brooklyn, NYC’s Williamsburg neighborhood was built in 1882 on the site of an even earlier sugar mill that opened in 1856. At one point the plant employed over 4,000 workers and supplied half the sugar consumed in the United States. By the year 2000 when the factory closed, however, only 225 employees still worked there. The Domino Sugar Refinery was sold to developers in early 2014 and the wrecking ball began swinging in October.

Sugar Beaten

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The Great Western Sugar Company mill in Longmont, Colorado closed in 1977 and – possibly due to the dearth of wineries in the region – has sat derelict and abandoned for well over thirty years.

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The factory opened in 1903 and processed locally-grown sugar beets. Rumor has it the mill is haunted, perhaps by sweet-toothed ghosts. Flickr user Sheila Dee (sheiladeeisme) visited the decrepit factory in January of 2013.

American Paia

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Paia, on the island of Maui, Hawaii may be “The World Capitol of Windsurfing” but the town of 2,668 (as of 2010) has another claim to fame: it’s where the once cutting-edge Haiku Sugar Mill processed sugar cane into brown sugar.

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Opening in 1861 and powered by a steam engine, the mill only operated for 18 years and has sat abandoned for well over a century. These days its ruins are a popular wedding photography and reception venue. Flickr user Maria Caridad snapped some of the more obscure areas of the abandoned mill on June 28th of 2009.

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Taking Their Lumps 12 Bitter Sweet Abandoned Sugar Mills

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[ By Steve in Abandoned Places & Architecture. ]

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6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits

10 Sep

On now until September 22nd (2015) over on Snapndeals – 20% OFF Wayne’s eBooK – Portrait Tips and Techniques: Natural Light Black & White Portraiture. Grab it before the deal expires.

DPS STUDY 1

RETHINKING NATURAL LIGHT

Many photographers choose to use natural light as their chosen style, almost as a badge of honour. Natural light is a wonderful source, providing ease of use and flattering light to your subjects, but you should be using it the same way as you would studio lights. You need to create light and shade that will add emotion or mood, not flat lighting that gives no shape, texture or mood. Hopefully these tips will help you on a path to refining your natural light classic portraits.

#1 – FINDING QUALITY LIGHT AND SHADOWS

First, find good quality light – preferably open shade, as this offers soft flattering light and is lower in contrast. Avoid the sun as your main light as it will cause harsh shadows and squinting, which is undesirable for quality portraits.

Open shade can be found under awnings, the edge of trees or buildings, and inside doorways or windows, for example. In these images the girls are positioned approximately 1.5 metres (5 feet) inside the doorway of an old timber shed.

Look for the shadows; they are equally important. Shadows subtract the light and create shape and mood.

After you have established your location, check the background. Even if you have found the perfect, open shaded location, make sure the background isn’t too contrasty with sunlit areas. These can be visually distracting, so try and select uncluttered backgrounds that are lower in contrast and darker than the subject’s face. This will allow the face to project forward by being the lightest tone against the background (all the images in this article demonstrate this).

DPS STUDY 2

#2 – FIND THE DIRECTION OF LIGHT

Once you have found good quality of light, check its direction. You want the light to come across your subject’s face at approximately 45 degrees to the nose, and from a higher angle. That height should also be at around 45 degrees, as a basic starting point.

You can check the catchlight positioning by looking at the eyes; there should be one in both eyes at around 10-11 or 1-2 o’clock. (This depends on the side of the face that is being lit and the structure of the eye sockets). Deep-set eyes will need a slightly lower light source. You should also notice the nose shadow to be at around 45 degrees.

To lower the catchlights you need to change the angle of your subject’s head by tilting more or less. Even moving the subject further away from the edge of an overhang will lower the angle of the light. It’s the opposite of being in a studio where you can move the lights. Natural light is fixed and requires you to move the subject and/or camera to achieve good lighting.

DPS STUDY 3

#4 – EYES ARE WINDOWS TO THE SOUL

Catchlights are very important in portraiture. They not only guide you where the light is coming from, but also create a sense of depth. TIP: no catchlights = NO photo. When there are no catchlights, there will be minimal, if any, texture and colour in the eyes. Always study the eyes for guidance.

#5 – SIMPLE POSING

The portraits here are the basic classic style, looking into the camera. It’s usually more flattering to angle the shoulders away from the camera, again 45 degrees is a handy starting point. Leaning the bodies and heads toward each other gives an emotional connection. Upright or leaning away would show detachment from each other.

It’s also a good practice to have the noses turned slightly away from the camera, particularly with adults. Noses that point directly at the camera will look broader in many cases, particularly when combined with flat lighting. With kids, it’s not as critical and good lighting will create better shape.

Arms and hands need to be posed simply so as not to draw attention. In images #1 and #2 above (top of article), the lower arms are bent downwards and the hands clasped softly. Things you should avoid are open fingers, particularly draped over a shoulder, as this can make a portrait busy and untidy. Elbows bent at 90 degrees should also be avoided. Here’s a simple mantra to remember when it comes to posing people’s heads, arms, legs, hands, hips, shoulders, etc:

IF IT BENDS – BEND IT. IF IT CURVES – CURVE IT. IF IT TWISTS – TWIST IT.

Applying this will help you avoid static poses.

DPS STUDY 4

DPS STUDY 5

#6 – EXPRESSION

Above all else, expression is the most important element in a portrait. In most cases, a poorly lit and posed portrait with a beautiful expression will trump a technically perfect portrait with an average expression in most cases, but this is no reason to pursue a path of mediocrity.

Expression is a personal thing. A moody, soulful style is my preference, but your sessions should always include various expressions such as laughing, smiling, pensive, etc. To achieve this soulful style you can’t be jumping around in a hyperactive mood expecting soulful looks. The best approach is a more Zen-like style, quietly giving direction. These classic style portraits produce beautiful open eyes, relaxed facial muscles, and true shape to the lips. Truly timeless, heart and soul portraits, but it all takes PRACTICE.

DPS STUDY 6

SUMMARY

  • Treat natural light photography the same as studio lighting.
  • Find quality soft light.
  • Look for shadows to create shape and mood.
  • Place your subject at 45 degrees to the light as a starting point.
  • The light source is fixed, so move your subject and camera to reduce the height of the light in the eyes.
  • Check for catchlights in the eyes.
  • Simplify your posing.
  • Soft expressions work best for classic low-key portraits.

SPECIAL NOTES

With each of these images, other angles of the face (2/3 face and profile) can be achieved by simply moving the camera position. Although the pose and light would remain the same, you may have to adjust the head tilts slightly and check your backgrounds.

Clothing colours also play a big part with quality portraits. Darker clothing works best for low-key portraits. Your eyes should be drawn to the brightest tone in the portrait, therefore, light-coloured clothing would be visually distracting.

On now until September 22nd (2015) over on Snapndeals – 20% OFF Wayne’s eBooK – Portrait Tips and Techniques: Natural Light Black & White Portraiture. Grab it before the deal expires.

 

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