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Posts Tagged ‘Sunset’

Cyberpunk Sunset: Artificial Sun Lights Up Warsaw Skyscraper

31 Jan

[ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Offices & Commercial. ]

warsaw downturn fake cyberpunk sun

The developers behind a new tower rising in downtown Warsaw, Poland, have added a sunny surprise to the side of the building, aiming to brighten the moods of citizens during dark and cold months of winter construction.

polish skyscraper warsaw sun

A temporary installation, set to stay in place until the floors are occupied, was made to “brighten up the lives of people during this depressing winter time, when the days are short and you miss the sun.” It was intentionally lit on Blue Monday, thought to be the most depressing day of the year.

warsaw artificial sunlight installation

The 42-story Q22 tower is a neomodern office building developed by Polish firm Echo Investment and designed by APA Kury?owicz & Associates with collaboration from Buro Happold Polska.

80s cyberpunk

Intentionally or otherwise, the entire project evokes images of retro gaming graphics and vintage cyberpunk films like Bladerunner, in a way (perhaps depressingly) reminding residents of just how much winter they still have lying in wait.

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[ By WebUrbanist in Architecture & Offices & Commercial. ]

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Can the Skyfire App Predict Stunning Sunset Colors Days in Advance?

18 Jan

Skyfire-Review-9What if you could predict beautiful sunset or sunrise colors? The colors we dream of when the word sunset crosses our mind; deep oranges, pinks, reds and streams of yellow, often against a deep blue sky.

Skyfire attempts to do just that for you, in app-form of course. Skyfire is a subscription product from the makers of The Photographer’s Ephemeris (TPE) that uses a host of data to help predict the probability of desirable sky colors for beautiful photos.

What is Skyfire?

Developed by Matthew Kuhns and a team of photographers, Skyfire is a subscription service that runs exclusively on TPE. Currently it only runs on TPE for iOS, but it will soon be ported over for Android as well. It uses a combination of data from weather monitoring and prediction stations, currently only in the lower 48 US states (plus minute amounts of the Canadian and Mexican borders). Correlating items like topography, cloud height and type, as well as gap light, (the amount of light coming in from under clouds that gives them their brilliant colors at sunset and makes it seem the sky is on fire, hence the name) Skyfire attempts to predict your odds of capturing beautiful sunset and sunrise colors in the clouds.

Skyfire’s subscriptions and prices are $ 9.99 for a three month Basic subscription, or $ 29.99 for a year. The Plus version (explained in a minute) is $ 14.99 for three months or $ 44.99 for a year.

Disclaimer about weather

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While technology has made bold strides in the meteorological world, it’s still not perfect – thus, Skyfire is not perfect. The app updates as new information comes in from weather services, and it updates itself four to six times a day on average. The app shows the latest update times so you will know if your current odds are based on recent data, or old info.

Also, the localization of weather can be very fickle. While Skyfire attempts to consider items like the general topography (highs and lows in the elevation of the Earth), sometimes local weather patterns can make those predictions tricky.

That is why Skyfire shows its predictions as a percentage chance of colors happening. This scale can be used to guess if it is worth heading to your local hotspot for an evening or morning shoot. The prediction capability will show the odds for either two or four days in advance, depending on the service you choose.

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How to use Skyfire

The first step in using Skyfire is to sign up for the service. Inside the More menu item in TPE is the main Skyfire control panel. Here you will find an option to turn Skyfire off and on, as well as manage your subscription. Crookneck is nice enough to offer a 30 free trial so you can see if the feature works well for you, before buying. Subscribing to the service, even in trial mode, will require creating an account with Crookneck, which is all done in-app.

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Once you either sign up for the service or activate the trial period, Skyfire’s basic functionality is very easy to use. Select a date for which you want to see a prediction – Skyfire Basic allows predictions up to two days in advance while the Plus subscription will show four days in ahead. Date selection is done by tapping on the date at the top of the screen, then simply scrolling until the appropriate one is selected.

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With the correct date selected, tap either the sunrise or sunset icons, from the timeline on the bottom of the screen. If you are zoomed-in too far, Skyfire will tell you to zoom out. Once you are zoomed out (by using a pinching motion on the screen) to the appropriate level, a semi-opaque overlay will show up with varying colors.

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No color overlay means no chance color and clear skies (the bottom right corner in the example above). You’ll still see the sunset or sunrise at that location, but the odds are there will be no clouds to take on color. The scale then follows the colors of the rainbow, more or less, to show slim chance (lighter blue) to high chance (red). In between are varying shades of blues to greens, and yellows to red. White means there will be cloud cover but no colors, and you likely won’t even see the sunset or rise.

It should be noted, the overlay color show the area where the greatest chance for sky color will occur. Meaning, it might be clear above you (no chance) but possibly red to the West. If you are deep in a valley you might not be able to see to the West, but if you’re on a mountain peak, you will know which direction works best.

How well does it work

While I don’t have hard stats from years of testing to document Skyfire’s accuracy, but I do have my own experience, and that of two other photographers in various locations around the US who’ve tried it. I’ve used Skyfire in both Orange and LA Counties, California as well as Seattle, Washington. Rachel Cohen has tested the app in Ann Arbor, Michigan, while Richard Wong uses the app in the San Francisco Bay Area of California.

The short of it: Skyfire works well enough for my use as a professional photographer. I find its predictability to be within Crookneck’s stated goal of 80% accuracy (the app has an opt-in feature that allows users to send in photographic feedback of their experience which helps the company track accuracy and improve the product) and I have trusted it to get me out of bed early enough to catch pleasing sunrises.

Rachel used the app nearly every day during her 30 day trial and Richard tried it several times, including a trip to Quebec, Canada (note, while Skyfire only states coverage for the Lower 48 US, areas close to the border often get coverage as weather knows no border). “It’s great for traveling, as I can look up to four days ahead and get an idea of how to position myself best for the sunset, and what to expect in general on how colorful it might be”, Rachel commented when asked what she liked best about the app. Richard offered, “I like that Skyfire helps with coming up with ideas for shooting locations at sunrise / sunset. This especially comes in handy for sunrises to determine whether or not to set the alarm the night before.”

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Knowing Skyfire is not perfect, Richard mentioned, “Wind conditions need to be accounted for, and mountains. I drove 2+ hours to Point Reyes National Seashore expecting good odds of an explosive sunset, but it was cloudless when I arrived, with none in sight in any direction because the clouds had blown inland.” Rachel found that it’s best to fiddle with the zoom depending on your location, “I’m not quite sure where it loses its accuracy, but I can be at, or near a location, then look at the Skyfire app. What I see in the sky might not always represent what’s actually happening. If I zoom way out on the map, it seems more accurate than limiting zoom. Usually I try it both ways. Especially if traveling any distance.”

While the app shows the percentage for probability of photogenic cloud colors, it can’t predict just how amazing those colors will be. This type of knowledge comes with experience, and knowing local patterns.

My Results

I’ve been testing and using Skyfire for a few month,s and as I mentioned, I’ve been happy with the product. While access to it was given to me in order to perform this review, I had initially paid for a three month subscription because I found it useful. Below are some examples of my results.

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Skyfire-Review-6

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This last one is where Skyfire said there as a low chance, but the sky had different plans.

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Skyfire forecast push notifications

One of Skyfire’s strongest features works when you forget to check the app. You can set up push notifications (Skyfire Plus subscription required) inside the app, and it will notify you, based on percentage thresholds you set, when there are particularly high odds of great sunrise/sunset colors. You first pick your favorite locations via a simple search.

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Skyfire will then keep track of your favorite locations and can show you the current predictions for each one.

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I’m heading to San Antonio tomorrow and I enjoy that the app helps me plan my tourism and photography. I know, as of right now, the sunset chance on my day of arrive is low, but the next morning is 50/50. So, I will check back tomorrow night, but in the mean time, I plan on making that morning an early one.

The notifications look like this:

Skyfire-Review-26

You can configure the notifications from one day in advance, to two or four days, depending on which subscription you opt-in for. Further, you can use the iPhone Do Not Disturb feature to make sure you aren’t receiving these texts when you are sleeping.

What’s next for Skyfire?

I got in touch with Matthew Kuhns and asked him what is next for Skyfire, he said:

“We are currently working on expanding the coverage area to Europe and Canada, which is challenging in that it requires some new forecast models to be created. And simultaneously we are working on the Android release for The Photographer’s Ephemeris plus a few other secret yet really awesome new features! The core service is also being analyzed and improved through the hard work of the entire team thanks for the great user feedback and field reports we receive. 

One hurdle many people don’t realize, is that most weather forecasts are broad stroke type predictions, and one of the biggest challenges with Skyfire is to take a broad forecast and nail down where the clouds will be exactly at sunset and sunrise, which is only a 20 minute window. Cloud forecasts are one of the trickiest parts of forecasting, and so developing ways to reliably analyze, interpret, and generate predictions based on these data sets is very challenging.

Conclusion

Skyfire is a robust feature inside TPE and for my money, it’s worth a yearly subscription. A hobbyist might opt for the Basic version, but as a professional who likes to hedge the bets in his favor, I prefer the Plus version. The push notifications are helpful for when I forget to check my phone. I have also found the app to be helpful for non-photography trips, such as the simple joy of enjoying a colorful sunset with my wife.

More information about the nuts and bolts of how the app is built can be found on Skyfire’s site.

Have you tried this app yet? What are your thoughts and results? Please share in the comments below.

Disclaimer: Skyfire was provided to the writer at no charge for the purpose of this review/article, but he was happy enough with it to purchase a subscription to continue using it. All reviews here on dPS are 100% unbiased opinions of the writers. 

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The post Can the Skyfire App Predict Stunning Sunset Colors Days in Advance? by Peter West Carey appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Sunrise, sunset: Sigma 24-35mm F2 DG HSM Art gallery updated

02 Nov

Sunset is coming early in the day again, and while that marks the start of a grey season here, the beginning of fall makes for some glorious golden hours. Recently, Tech Editor Rishi Sanyal ventured out with the Sigma 24-35mm F2 Art for a sunset portrait session. Take a look at our expanded real-world samples. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Photographer captures once-in-a-lifetime Las Vegas sunset

11 Jul

Photographer Tony Eckersley’s balcony overlooking the Las Vegas strip from his downtown apartment is usually good for a dramatic sunset or thunderstorm. But even by those standards, the scene he encountered earlier this week was unusually spectacular. As a thunderstorm passed over the city, he was able to capture the sunset to the west with the storm continuing over the east side. Learn more

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4 Reasons Shooting at Sunrise and Sunset Will Help You Take Better Photos

10 Mar

 

Tree-2

Perhaps the most important change you can make to improve your photography is to change the time of day you are shooting. It is as simple as that. Photos taken in the middle of the day all have problems that can be avoided if you photograph near sunrise or sunset. Photographers agree on very little, but they all seem to agree that the times around sunrise and sunset are the best for photography. In fact, many photographers go so far as to put their cameras away during the hours between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m.

Getting up at dawn, or hanging around after sunset, is generally not convenient. It is no fun to get up well before sunrise, especially in the summer when sunrise comes early. But if you want to elevate your photography, that is how to do it.

You may have heard all this before, but in this article I will explain why, and show you some of the reasons why sunrise and sunset can help you take better photos.

Schoodic

Reason #1: Avoid harsh contrast

The bright light of the midday sun creates harsh shadows in your photography. Nearly every object within your view will create harsh shadows. Obviously large objects like trees and buildings create such shadows, but it goes at lot further. When photographing a person, for example, you will likely encounter harsh shadows on their faces. Even something as small as grass or leaves will leave unsightly black shadows in your pictures.

Photographing near sunrise or sunset fixes this problem. At those times, the sun’s rays are coming from a more horizontal angle, which means that the rays have to pass through a lot more of the earth’s atmosphere before reaching you.  That makes the light more diffused.

In addition, the times just before sunrise and after sunset don’t involve any direct rays at all. At those times you are dealing only with indirect rays of the sun. You will not have a problem with harsh shadows.

 

Telluride-2

Reason #2: Maintain tones within your camera’s dynamic range

In all outdoor photography you have to cope with the problem that the sky is invariably brighter than the foreground. Sometimes it is much, much, brighter. If you meter light based on the brightest part of your camera’s view, which is inevitably the sky, the shadows in your picture will end up as pure black. Conversely, if you meter light based on the foreground or shadows in your camera’s view, the brighter portions of your picture will be overexposed or even blown out (pure white).

For pictures taken during the middle of the day, this problem can be exacerbated. That is when the sky is at its brightest. If your foreground is not as bright, you are will have a problem where the scene is beyond the dynamic range of your camera.

When photographing around sunrise or sunset the sky is not quite as bright as it is when the sun is high in the sky. This cuts down the dynamic range your camera has to capture, so it is possible to capture the entire scene in full detail.

 

WesternLake-2

Reason #3: Avoid the commonplace

You simply cannot take a unique picture by photographing the same places, at the same time, from the same angles as everyone else. If you want your pictures to stand out from the crowd, you need to do something different. Photographing at sunrise and sunset goes part of the way in giving you that something different.

Most people are used to seeing the world as it exists in the middle of the day, they are not used to seeing it at sunrise and sunset. A typical day will have 10 hours of midday lighting, but the sunrise and sunset last only a little while. Further, people often miss them entirely. People are usually sleeping at dawn, or if not, are getting ready for work and not focused on the sky.

By photographing at sunrise and sunset, you are showing your viewers something they don’t see all the time. It avoids the commonplace. It will make your pictures more interesting to your viewers.

Achill

Reason #4: Capture the sky at its most vibrant

People often go to scenic locations to watch the sunrise or the sunset. There is a reason for that: because those are the times when the sky is at its most dramatic. As a photographer, that is the sky that you want to capture.

Skies at sunrise and sunset are full of color. The orange of the sun combines with the blue of the sky and creates interesting colors. When there are clouds in the picture as well, there can be a variety of different colors. Conversely, in the middle of the day, the sky is blue (if you are lucky, otherwise it is grey). By photographing at sunrise and sunset, you can capture those colors in your pictures. To make sure you are capturing the colors at their most vibrant, set your camera to meter off the sky and then underexpose a little bit.

Marina-2

 

Conclusion

I hope this article explains the advantages of photographing around sunrise and sunset. It is one thing – and perhaps the only thing – that I can guarantee will improve your photography. But one final note to help you maximize the benefit, is that you should not arrive at your location at sunrise and/or leave at sunset. Rather, arrive about 45 minutes before sunrise and hang around at least that long after sunset. These periods when the sky is bright, but the sun is beyond the horizon, sometimes result in more dramatic images than the sunrise/sunset itself. I have often seen people pack up when the sun dips over the horizon, only to miss the most dramatic colors of the day.

I would also encourage you to check out the importance of photographing at these times for yourself. The next time you are on your favorite photo sharing website, look at your most-liked photos. Make a quick note of how many of them were taken at sunrise or sunset. My bet is that it will be a lot of them.

So if you want to take more dramatic and interesting photos, take them at sunrise or sunset. The good news is that it doesn’t cost you anything. You don’t have to buy any special gear. Yet this one change will make more difference than any new camera or lens.

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Sunset Over West Maui

26 Jan
Sunset Over West Maui

Sunset light illuminates clouds over west Maui

This was taken on a trip a year back atop the peak of Haleakala. While many are lured to this location to see the sunrise one should not miss sunsets either. It’s not everyday you get to sit a top the world and see for up to 30 miles or more in every direction. While driving here with my son he wisely stated, “This volcano is too big!” It is gigantic (10,023 feet above sea level) and amazing even more when you think how far down it goes below the ocean (28,227 feet from the ocean floor). It’s only rivaled by Mauna Kea on the big Island of Hawaii, which by chance you can see looking in the opposite direction from this view.

Copyright Jim M. Goldstein, All Rights Reserved

Sunset Over West Maui

The post Sunset Over West Maui appeared first on JMG-Galleries – Landscape, Nature & Travel Photography.

       

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Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits

28 May

Beach sunset portraits are always so beautiful; they make for a unique backdrop as each sunset is a little bit different from the next. With an hour long portrait session photos with the sunset over and over can sometimes get a little repetitive. This article will show you how to create diverse images out of a beach sunset session, and also explain how to use off-camera flash to expose for the background and capture the true colors that you see.

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To plan this right, you first need to know exactly what time the sun dips behind the ocean horizon. The time and date website allows you to look up this exact time for different cities all over the world. For an hour long session, have your clients meet you at the beach 45 minutes before the sun goes out of sight. The lighting at this time is just perfect for photos, it is known as the golden hour because of the warm hues it casts.
The 15 minutes immediately after the sun sets also offers a wonderful soft light.

Before you begin posing your subjects you need to get your exposure right. Turn off all flashes, set your camera to Manual Mode, and simply expose for the sunset. If you take a picture of your subject in front of the background like this you will see that they are very underexposed, if not a silhouette. In order to get a proper exposure for the sunset, and for your subject, we need to add light to the subject. Since the sunset is so far away, your flash will not affect the exposure of the background.

You can use an on-camera flash for this, but an off-camera flash will make the lighting look more natural and is therefore the ideal. To setup an off-camera flash you will need a flash, a light stand, and a way to trigger the flash. There are many different ways to do this, but I would suggest wireless radio triggers. Once you have your light setup, place the stand about 10-15 feet away from where your subject will stand, and about 4-5 feet to the right of the camera position. This will have the light coming at your subject from the side, instead of straight on which will create a much more flattering picture.

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Turn your flash on and switch it to manual mode. Set the flash strength to half power and take a test shot. If your subject is too bright try moving the flash back a few feet. If the face is too dark increase your flash power or move the flash a little closer to the person. Adjust the flash power and distance from your subject until they are nicely exposed. Your flash can be bare, without any modifiers, or with a shoot through white umbrella for a softer light.

Once everything is setup you can pose your group or subject, facing away from the sunset, and take a set of images. Vary the pose and take a few more. Next look around and see what else is available to use as a backdrop. Large rocks, palm trees, sand dunes or greenery all make for diverse images. A boardwalk leading up the beach can also be a great spot. Aim to use two to three different backgrounds.

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By this time the sun has gone down quite a bit, and the colors have changed a lot from your first set of photos. Adjust your lighting and exposure to match the new conditions and take a few more portraits in front of the ever changing sunset.

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Turn your flash off, adjust your exposure and take some beautiful silhouette images of your subjects.

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Just after the sun dips down below the horizon, turn your subject towards the sunset and capture the beautiful soft light that spills onto their face. Make sure your flash is off for this, as the natural light is perfect, and adjust your exposure as needed. This is a great moment for candid shots of the group walking along the beach and laughing, or of parents tossing their children up in the air.

Lastly, try to look for where your subject’s reflection falls on the water when the tide pulls out. Capture an image with your subject and their reflection, or just their feet and the reflection.

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During a one hour session, at only one location, you can capture a diverse set of images for your customers (or friends) that they will love. Just remember to always be on the lookout for a different background, or unique area of the beach. Also if you will be taking pictures that will get them sandy or wet, make sure to save those for last so they their clothes aren’t wet or full of sand in the rest of the photos.

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Have you done any beach portraits? Do you have any other tips you can share, please do so in the comments below.

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8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images

26 Mar

When we are asked to think of popular subjects for landscape photography, images of beautiful sunsets immediately come to mind. What outdoor photographer worth his or her salt doesn’t have at least a couple of images of the sun dipping below the horizon? In most people’s minds, it is an easy thing to capture; the beauty and scale of the event itself should carry the photo, with minimal interaction from the photographer.

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But is this really the case?

Unfortunately, it’s not. Unless you’re relying on luck alone, you’ll need to possess a few seeds of knowledge (eight in this case) to get you started in capturing that epic sunrise or sunset. None of these guidelines are difficult to comprehend, and can vastly improve your chances of properly capturing one of mother nature’s most incredible events.

1. Scout the Location

As tempting as it is to just show up at a convenient location and start shooting, you greatly increase your chances of success by planning the shoot in advance. The first thing you’ll want to determine is the best location from which to shoot.

Pick a location that is out of the way of road and foot traffic, where you’re unlikely to be disturbed. Go to the location in broad daylight before the shoot, and ensure your view of the horizon will be unobstructed and free of any hazards.

The most important factor after the location is time of the day. Obviously, this will vary depending on whether you’re capturing a sunrise or a sunset. Is there a storm coming? If your shooting time coincides with an approaching or recently-ended storm, the results can be staggering. Rain and storm clouds can add a dramatic layer of dimension to the scene.

Lastly, you can pinpoint the perfect time to shoot by using an online tool or smartphone app to determine precise sunrise and sunset times for your exact location. Many low-cost (and sometimes free) solutions are out there, including SunSeeker, Daylight Free, and the excellent Photographers Ephemeris to name a few.

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2. Sunrise, or Sunset?

If you’re familiar with color temperature, you’ll know that there is a slight difference in the appearance of light at sunset versus what you’ll see at sunrise. Early morning light tends to be cooler (higher blue) than light in the late evening, which leans toward more warm color castings consisting of orange and red.

Since we know there are differing color temperatures at work here, you might need to adjust for this, depending on what feel you’re going for, either through warming or cooling filters, or adjustments in post-production to add or remove warmth into the color profile of the final photograph.

Be aware that physical filters used on your camera will degrade image quality slightly, due to the addition of another obstacle for light to pass through between your subject and your camera’s sensor

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3. Plan your Shots

Another important step to accomplish before heading out is to plan out what you hope to achieve in the photo. What look are you going for?  Is there a definitive subject lit by the sunlight, or will the sunset itself be the star of the show?

This is also a great time to determine any other special considerations, such as the possibility of shooting an HDR (High Dynamic Range) photo. If that’s the case, you’ll need to prepare your camera for bracketed exposures to capture the full range of tones in the scene. Since these type of scenes normally consist of bright spots and shadows, this is a great way to produce some truly dramatic images.

4. Gather the Proper Gear

Obviously you can’t capture the right shot without the right gear; so make sure you have it all ready to go before you head out. First and foremost, you’ll want to bring your tripod. Sunrises and sunsets are potentially low-light situations (depending on what part of the sunset you’re trying to capture), so you want a steady base for your camera.

Secondly, you’ll want to determine what lens to use for the shot.  Even though beautiful landscapes can be captured using a 35mm or 50mm focal length (for sensors with a 1.6 crop factor – 56 to 80mm on a full frame system), a wide angle lens is preferred, including any zoom lenses that can capture a length of 25mm and below (40mm on a full frame system).  If you have a prime lens at these lengths, you will have a better chance of catching an even sharper image.  Using a wide angle lens will allow you to capture a more vast, sweeping portion of the scene.

Do you own and use screw-on filters for your camera?

Although using filters can degrade image quality a bit, due to the addition of another obstacle for light to pass through between your subject and your camera’s sensor, there are some that could be useful here, such as a GND (graduated neutral density) filter, to darken the upper portion of the sky a bit. Filters such as UV (ultraviolet) or polarizing filters may actually be a hinderance in these situations, and should be avoided. These filters reduce the amount of light coming in to the sensor, further increasing the required exposure time, which may not be idea if you’re trying to freeze any motion in the shot.

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5. Use the Right Settings

Another item that can be set up before you arrive to your shoot is the settings on the camera itself.

Since you’re shooting landscape, you’ll want to use a smaller aperture such as f/8, f/11 or even higher to maximize the depth of field and capture a sharp image throughout. If you’re using a tripod, this isn’t a problem.

Although shooting in manual mode is the norm here, to allow for minor changes in exposure compensation, I prefer to shoot almost everything in A/Av (aperture priority mode). This way I can lock in my aperture and let the camera choose a proper shutter speed. Since low-light situations like this can confuse the camera and you run the risk of overexposure, you can use your camera’s exposure compensation settings to fine-tune the exposure a bit lower.

A low ISO should also be used such as 100 or 200, to ensure there isn’t a lot of noise in the final shot. Again, with a tripod this isn’t an issue, but if you’re hand-holding for the shot, you will need to bump the ISO up to get a shutter speed that’s fast enough to avoid a disappointingly blurry photo.

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Another useful trick to increase warmth in your final shot is to set WB (white balance) to the “sunny” or “cloudy” setting instead of “auto”. Although you can certainly add warmth in post-processing, your initial image from the camera will be warmer if you make this adjustment now.

And of course, ALWAYS shoot in RAW! To a certain extent, shadows and highlights that are lost in a shot can be recovered in post-processing later.

6. Compose for Interest

Alright, the preparation is over, now we get to the fun part! Once you’re on location, and are ready to take the shot, you’ll want to make considerations for composition.

The most common error in shooting sunsets or sunrises is composing the horizon exactly in the middle of the photo. While this can work in some cases, it normally causes a bit too much symmetry and can make the picture uninteresting.

Take a moment to look the scene over; what part is the most dramatic? Are there any parts that aren’t as interesting of a focus?

Once you have identified that, simply compose the shot to include more of the most dramatic scenery. If you have an angry, cloudy sky that accentuates the sunlight, let that occupy the upper 2/3 of the scene. If you have an interesting foreground or landscape below the sun, and a less-intriguing sky, let that occupy the bottom 2/3 of the image. You want to draw the viewer into the horizon, and then let their eyes drift to the most dramatic part of the image.

purple_sunset

7. Waiting for the Right Shot

If you already have experience shooting landscapes, you know that sometimes waiting is the name of the game. Because of the dynamics of natural lighting, a scene can completely change from one hour to the next, and sometimes even one minute to the next.

Now is the time to be creative! Try different exposure times, play with your exposure compensation settings for different tones. Let the clouds and sun change positions, and reshoot, or try a slightly different angle.

Maybe even allow different subjects to come in and out of frame, and shoot them in the foreground against the sunrise or sunset. The longer you’re at the location shooting, the more variety of shots you’ll end up with.

pier

Sunset article4

8. Don’t Leave Too Early

Lastly, one of the most common things you’ll hear about capturing sunsets, in particular, is to stick around after the sun dips below the horizon. This is certainly true, as the entire dynamic of a scene changes at this point.

Tones, colors and hues in the sky usually become more saturated and dramatic. You’ll need to allow for the loss of your main source of light, but it’s hard to deny some of the most beautiful images can be shot right after the sun is out of sight.

The post 8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images by Tim Gilbreath appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images

26 Mar

When we are asked to think of popular subjects for landscape photography, images of beautiful sunsets immediately come to mind. What outdoor photographer worth his or her salt doesn’t have at least a couple of images of the sun dipping below the horizon? In most people’s minds, it is an easy thing to capture; the beauty and scale of the event itself should carry the photo, with minimal interaction from the photographer.

bird_trio

But is this really the case?

Unfortunately, it’s not. Unless you’re relying on luck alone, you’ll need to possess a few seeds of knowledge (eight in this case) to get you started in capturing that epic sunrise or sunset. None of these guidelines are difficult to comprehend, and can vastly improve your chances of properly capturing one of mother nature’s most incredible events.

1. Scout the Location

As tempting as it is to just show up at a convenient location and start shooting, you greatly increase your chances of success by planning the shoot in advance. The first thing you’ll want to determine is the best location from which to shoot.

Pick a location that is out of the way of road and foot traffic, where you’re unlikely to be disturbed. Go to the location in broad daylight before the shoot, and ensure your view of the horizon will be unobstructed and free of any hazards.

The most important factor after the location is time of the day. Obviously, this will vary depending on whether you’re capturing a sunrise or a sunset. Is there a storm coming? If your shooting time coincides with an approaching or recently-ended storm, the results can be staggering. Rain and storm clouds can add a dramatic layer of dimension to the scene.

Lastly, you can pinpoint the perfect time to shoot by using an online tool or smartphone app to determine precise sunrise and sunset times for your exact location. Many low-cost (and sometimes free) solutions are out there, including SunSeeker, Daylight Free, and the excellent Photographers Ephemeris to name a few.

sunset_article3.jpg

2. Sunrise, or Sunset?

If you’re familiar with color temperature, you’ll know that there is a slight difference in the appearance of light at sunset versus what you’ll see at sunrise. Early morning light tends to be cooler (higher blue) than light in the late evening, which leans toward more warm color castings consisting of orange and red.

Since we know there are differing color temperatures at work here, you might need to adjust for this, depending on what feel you’re going for, either through warming or cooling filters, or adjustments in post-production to add or remove warmth into the color profile of the final photograph.

Be aware that physical filters used on your camera will degrade image quality slightly, due to the addition of another obstacle for light to pass through between your subject and your camera’s sensor

daisy

3. Plan your Shots

Another important step to accomplish before heading out is to plan out what you hope to achieve in the photo. What look are you going for?  Is there a definitive subject lit by the sunlight, or will the sunset itself be the star of the show?

This is also a great time to determine any other special considerations, such as the possibility of shooting an HDR (High Dynamic Range) photo. If that’s the case, you’ll need to prepare your camera for bracketed exposures to capture the full range of tones in the scene. Since these type of scenes normally consist of bright spots and shadows, this is a great way to produce some truly dramatic images.

4. Gather the Proper Gear

Obviously you can’t capture the right shot without the right gear; so make sure you have it all ready to go before you head out. First and foremost, you’ll want to bring your tripod. Sunrises and sunsets are potentially low-light situations (depending on what part of the sunset you’re trying to capture), so you want a steady base for your camera.

Secondly, you’ll want to determine what lens to use for the shot.  Even though beautiful landscapes can be captured using a 35mm or 50mm focal length (for sensors with a 1.6 crop factor – 56 to 80mm on a full frame system), a wide angle lens is preferred, including any zoom lenses that can capture a length of 25mm and below (40mm on a full frame system).  If you have a prime lens at these lengths, you will have a better chance of catching an even sharper image.  Using a wide angle lens will allow you to capture a more vast, sweeping portion of the scene.

Do you own and use screw-on filters for your camera?

Although using filters can degrade image quality a bit, due to the addition of another obstacle for light to pass through between your subject and your camera’s sensor, there are some that could be useful here, such as a GND (graduated neutral density) filter, to darken the upper portion of the sky a bit. Filters such as UV (ultraviolet) or polarizing filters may actually be a hinderance in these situations, and should be avoided. These filters reduce the amount of light coming in to the sensor, further increasing the required exposure time, which may not be idea if you’re trying to freeze any motion in the shot.

lifeguard_shack

5. Use the Right Settings

Another item that can be set up before you arrive to your shoot is the settings on the camera itself.

Since you’re shooting landscape, you’ll want to use a smaller aperture such as f/8, f/11 or even higher to maximize the depth of field and capture a sharp image throughout. If you’re using a tripod, this isn’t a problem.

Although shooting in manual mode is the norm here, to allow for minor changes in exposure compensation, I prefer to shoot almost everything in A/Av (aperture priority mode). This way I can lock in my aperture and let the camera choose a proper shutter speed. Since low-light situations like this can confuse the camera and you run the risk of overexposure, you can use your camera’s exposure compensation settings to fine-tune the exposure a bit lower.

A low ISO should also be used such as 100 or 200, to ensure there isn’t a lot of noise in the final shot. Again, with a tripod this isn’t an issue, but if you’re hand-holding for the shot, you will need to bump the ISO up to get a shutter speed that’s fast enough to avoid a disappointingly blurry photo.

inlet_sunset

Another useful trick to increase warmth in your final shot is to set WB (white balance) to the “sunny” or “cloudy” setting instead of “auto”. Although you can certainly add warmth in post-processing, your initial image from the camera will be warmer if you make this adjustment now.

And of course, ALWAYS shoot in RAW! To a certain extent, shadows and highlights that are lost in a shot can be recovered in post-processing later.

6. Compose for Interest

Alright, the preparation is over, now we get to the fun part! Once you’re on location, and are ready to take the shot, you’ll want to make considerations for composition.

The most common error in shooting sunsets or sunrises is composing the horizon exactly in the middle of the photo. While this can work in some cases, it normally causes a bit too much symmetry and can make the picture uninteresting.

Take a moment to look the scene over; what part is the most dramatic? Are there any parts that aren’t as interesting of a focus?

Once you have identified that, simply compose the shot to include more of the most dramatic scenery. If you have an angry, cloudy sky that accentuates the sunlight, let that occupy the upper 2/3 of the scene. If you have an interesting foreground or landscape below the sun, and a less-intriguing sky, let that occupy the bottom 2/3 of the image. You want to draw the viewer into the horizon, and then let their eyes drift to the most dramatic part of the image.

purple_sunset

7. Waiting for the Right Shot

If you already have experience shooting landscapes, you know that sometimes waiting is the name of the game. Because of the dynamics of natural lighting, a scene can completely change from one hour to the next, and sometimes even one minute to the next.

Now is the time to be creative! Try different exposure times, play with your exposure compensation settings for different tones. Let the clouds and sun change positions, and reshoot, or try a slightly different angle.

Maybe even allow different subjects to come in and out of frame, and shoot them in the foreground against the sunrise or sunset. The longer you’re at the location shooting, the more variety of shots you’ll end up with.

pier

Sunset article4

8. Don’t Leave Too Early

Lastly, one of the most common things you’ll hear about capturing sunsets, in particular, is to stick around after the sun dips below the horizon. This is certainly true, as the entire dynamic of a scene changes at this point.

Tones, colors and hues in the sky usually become more saturated and dramatic. You’ll need to allow for the loss of your main source of light, but it’s hard to deny some of the most beautiful images can be shot right after the sun is out of sight.

The post 8 Simple Guidelines for Capturing Spectacular Sunrise and Sunset Images by Tim Gilbreath appeared first on Digital Photography School.


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Sunset Photography Tips Video Tutorials

22 Mar

Yesterday I shared a set of amazing sunset images and this week’s photography challenge is also to capture some sunset images. So to help you along with that is a video tutorial on how to underexpose to get more color in your sunset shots, also one of the tips I mentioned on the challenge page!

In this video Gordon Laing goes through step by step how to change the settings on your camera to do just that. Have a look:

And a second video by the Corel Learning Center with five more sunset photography tips. These are practical and easy to understand and follow:

Have some other tips, please share in the comments below!

Look for another article on sunsets coming up this week!

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