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Posts Tagged ‘Photoshop’

How to Process a Landscape Photo in 5 Minutes Using Photoshop

07 Sep

2-for-1 special

As part of Landscape Photography Week here on dPS, we’re offering TWO for the price of ONE on our best-selling Living & Loving Landscape Photography ebooks!

Click here to take advantage of this offer.


In this ultra fast video tutorial photographer Joshua Cripps walks your through how to process a landscape photo using Photoshop in under five minutes. He talks really fast and works quickly so if you miss anything just watch the video again (he even says that at the end) or pause it so you can follow along.

How did you make out with your own landscape image, could you do it in five minutes? If it takes you a little longer that’s just fine, especially if you’re just learning Photoshop.

Note: everything he does in the video can also be done in Lightroom using the basic sliders, adjustment brush, and graduated filter.

 


Here on dPS this is landscape week – here is list of what we’ve covered so far. Watch for a new article (or two) on landscape photography daily for the next couple days.

  • 6 Tips for Better Low-Light Landscape Photography
  • Landscape Photography and the Human Element
  • 5 Ways a Telephoto Lens Can Improve Your Landscape Photography
  • Landscape Photography from the Side of the Road
  • 32 Majestic Landscape Photos to Inspire Your Wanderlust
  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Landscape
  • Landscape Photography – Shooting the Same Location Through the Seasons

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5 Photoshop Tips You Probably Didn’t Know

23 Aug

In this video tutorial from the Photoshop Training Channel, Jesús Ramirez goes over five Photoshop tips – you may not know! I have to admit I didn’t know a few of them myself. The things he covers include:

  • Advanced blending options in the layer style panel
  • Add a precise lens flare (using x and y coordinates to place it exactly where you want)
  • Using advanced options for Render Clouds, to get clouds with more contrast
  • Using the Black and White Adjustment layer to control color tones
  • How to open the same image in two windows, one zoomed in and one zoomed out

Do you have any other little known Photoshop tips to share? Please do so in the comments below, I’d love to hear your tips and tricks.

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How to Convert Images to Black and White and Add a Color Tint in Photoshop

17 Aug
Split-tone-ACR

Landscape scene in south of France using split-tone effect in ACR

So why would you bother with black and white imagery when we live in a world full of color? There are many reasons why, but a simple answer is that a black and white image can be quite powerful.

A close up of a man’s or woman’s face, heavily lined from age, photographed in black and white may elicit a stronger emotion than the same image in color. The viewer focuses in on the texture and contrast of the image.

A heavy fog or mist over a landscape is much spookier in monochrome than in color. That’s why those old black and white movies are so good.

Converting to Black and White in Photoshop

Converting a color to black and white in Photoshop is a relatively easy task. Open the image that you want to convert to black and white. Choose from the Image Menu>Mode>Grayscale. A dialog box appears, asking you if you want to, “Discard color information?”. Click Discard, but I would not recommend this method. All the color information has now been lost.

Snail-grayscale

A simple way to converting a colour image to black and white in Photoshop, but not the recommended way.

Channel Mixer

Instead, I’m going to show you a more effective way for converting your images to black and white in Photoshop. I like to use the Channel Mixer method. In Photoshop, choose the Channel Mixer icon from the adjustments palette or you can choose Layer>New Adjustments>Channel Mixer and click OK.

There is a check box next to the word Monochrome, on the lower left side in the Channel Mixer box. When you click on that, your image will turn to grayscale. The default settings are Red 40%, Green 40% and Blue 20%. See screenshot below. However, this is where I like to make my own changes.

Channel-mixer-default-settings

Using the Channel Mixer to convert a color image to black and white. The default settings when you click on the Monochrome box are Red 40%, Green 40% and Blue 20%.

The Red channel holds the most detail. The blue channel holds the most noise. The look that you’re after will depend on your choice. For this image, I moved the red slider to +80%, the green slider to +43% and the blue to -23%. The general rule of thumb is that the percentages should total to 100% (80+43-23=100).

Channel-mixer-custom-settings

The ability to adjust each of the Red, Green and Blue sliders gives you more control over how you want your grayscale image to look. Try and keep the percentage totals equal to 100%.

Adding a Color Tint

Next, let’s add some color to a black and white image, or rather a tint. Let’s start with a sepia tone, which is a reddish-brown color that gives those old vintage photos that classical look.

Sepia

Using the same image that you have just converted to black and white using the Channel Mixer – add another new adjustment layer, Color Balance. Similar to the Channel Mixer, choose Layer>New Adjustments>Color Balance

Name this layer, Shadows. In the properties panel, click to the right where it says Tone, it defaults to Midtones but you have the option of two others, choose Shadows, as you only want the color to effect the shadows. Move the red slider over to 55%, then move the yellow slider to the left -40% to give the image that classic reddish brown look. See the animated gif below.

Black-and-white sepia-tone

Antique

Now if you want the color to affect only the highlights. First, turn off the layer visibility on the Shadows layer. Add another Color Balance layer, choose Layer>New Adjustments>Color Balance and name this one Highlights. Same as above, click to the right of Tone where it says Midtones and choose Highlights. Move the yellow slider to the left -55%. This gives the image an Antique look. See image below left.

Antique tone split-tone

Split toning

Turn the visibility for the Shadows layer back on and you now have a split-tone look, as you have just added two different hues to the highlights and shadows. See image above right.

Split toning in ACR

To achieve this same effect in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) it’s even easier. With your image open in ACR, having done the basic edits. Click the HSL/Grayscale tab, then check on the Convert to Grayscale box. Similar to the Channel Mixer adjustment layer in Photoshop the color sliders can be adjusted to make your own custom changes.

Click the Split Toning tab. Move the Highlights Hue to yellow and the Saturation over to the middle to start. Move the Shadows Hue to a red tone, and the Saturation to the middle as well. Then adjust the Saturation for the Shadows (I used 61) and the Highlights (I used 57).

Split-tone-ACR

Editing an image using the Split Toning tab in ACR

Gradient Map

As with most techniques in Photoshop, there are many ways of achieving the same results. It comes down to preference, and most importantly, time. So here’s a really quick, and very effective way, to convert your color photo to black and white and add a sepia tone, or even a duotone.

Normally, I don’t bother or rave about the presets that come bundled with Photoshop. But in the Gradient Editor, I beg to differ. There is a set called Photographic Toning, which consists of 38 presets in total, and I think these do an amazing job! Here’s how I applied this duotone effect to this image.

Go to Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Gradient Map or you can click on the last icon in the bottom row of the Adjustments panel. Ensure your Foreground and Background colors are set to Black and White. This will apply the default gradient, which is foreground to background and turn your image to black and white.

Layer-new-adjustment-layer-gradient-map

How to add a Gradient Map as an adjustment layer in Photoshop

Click on the gradient and the Gradient Editor menu appears. Click on the gear icon at the top right corner of the Presets section, and another pop-up menu appears. Photographic Toning is down near the bottom of the list. When you click on it, a dialog box appears asking you to replace the current default gradients with the ones that you are loading. Just click Ok.

Gradient-editor-photographic-toning

How to find the Photographic Toning presets in the Gradient Editor in Photoshop

I chose Blue2 (the sixteenth one) to give it this greenish, turquoise color. As with any adjustment layer, you can lower the opacity or change the blend mode, but in this case, I did a slight Blend-if on both layers. By right-clicking on the layer, this brings up the Layer Style pop-up menu with the different blending options.

Layer-with-blending-options

Blending-options-Blend-if

Go down to the Blend-if section. You will see ‘This Layer’ and the ‘Underlying Layer’ . Both of these options have a white slider. Hold down the Alt key, which splits it into halves, and slide the left portion to the left (as shown above). This brings back some of the highlights to give the image a more cross-processed look. See image below.

There is a great range of Sepia presets to choose from which are worth trying out too.

Original-before-duotone

Color image before I applied a duotone effect from one of the presets in the Gradient Editor in Photoshop

Duotone

‘Blue2′ one of the presets in the Gradient Editor in Photoshop to give that ‘Duotone’ effect

Have you converted your color photos to black and white? What techniques did you use? If so please share in the comments below.

Editor’s Note: This is one of a series of articles this week featuring black and white photography tips. Look for earlier ones below and more daily over the next few days.

  • 5 Simple Ways to Create Expressive Photos in Black and White
  • Tips for Black and White Wildlife Photography
  • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
  • 28 Images with Strong Black and White Compositions
  • Weekly Photography Challenge – Black and White Techniques
  • Tips for Black and White Wildlife Photography

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Corel releases ParticleShop brush plugin for Photoshop

13 Aug

Corel has released a new brush plugin for PhotoShop called ParticleShop. It uses Corel’s Painter Particle brush technology to create photo-realistic effects like smoke, dust, fabric, fire, hair, lighting and fur. These effects are added to photos using brush strokes. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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Is Photoshop a Bad Word?

06 Aug

How many times have you posted or shared a dramatic image only to have someone ask, “Did you Photoshop that?” First of all, let’s get one thing straight – Photoshop is not a verb! Photoshop hall of famer Vincent Versace put it this way:

“Photoshop is not a verb. It’s a noun. It is the means to an end, not the end itself.”

Photoshop has been taking a lot of heat lately with all the retouched tabloid images of models, who with the help of some clever manipulation, look unbelievably perfect. But Photoshop is not to blame for these exaggerated images. Yes, it is the tool used to create them, but it’s not the culprit.

Just because a photographer post-processes images with software such as Photoshop doesn’t mean that the image isn’t showing what the photographer actually saw or felt when they released the shutter. There are many image processing software products available today to post-process your images, but these are considered means of retouching  images. In this article we will refer to Photoshop, but any software being used for post-processing could be included as well.

Composite image of fireworks. Several images were layered together in Photoshop changing the blending mode of the layers to lighten allows the images to blend into what appears to be one image.

Composite image of fireworks. Several images were layered together in Photoshop, and changing the blending mode of the layers from Normal  to Lighten allows the images to blend into what appears to be a single image.

Get it right in-camera!

Have you ever heard or even said, “Oh, I will fix that later in Photoshop.”? While sometimes it is a necessity to post-process an image, you never want to rely on Photoshop to be the fix-all for every image you shoot. It is still a good practice to get it right in-camera as much as possible. Still, almost every image can benefit from a few adjustments.

Is Photoshop a necessity?

Maybe not, but many photographers say, “I don’t use Photoshop. I prefer my images straight out of the camera.” But guess what? If you are one of these photographers, you may not realize that if you are shooting in JPG straight out of your camera, your images are being processed by your camera. Your camera will sharpen, add saturation and contrast, and remove noise. A JPG shot straight out of the camera is also a compressed file, which means digital information about your image is lost and can’t be recovered.

If you are shooting in RAW mode, post-processing is almost always a must. None of the camera adjustments mentioned above are applied to your image, with the exception of white balance (which can also be adjusted in post-processing). If you ask almost any professional photographer whether or not they post-process their images, you will find that nearly 100 percent of them use Photoshop for various amounts of processing.

Original

Original

DSC_0456_Edit_new

Final image, after cropping and adding contrast and sharpening.

DSC_8861_ORG

BW_silo

Black and white conversion can also be done using Photoshop. Capture your original image in full color, which will provide more image data to use during the conversion process.

Is Photoshop cheating?

Is using Photoshop cheating, or is it just a method of finishing an image? It is very true that Photoshop can be used to manipulate images in a negative or false way.

Sharing images Straight Out Of Camera is great for photographers who are mainly into taking snap shots of family and friends, but is that the only acceptable method for all photographers? No, many camera-savvy shooters want to perfect their images to create works of art, and Photoshop is the tool to make this happen. Is there really such a thing as a perfect image SOOC? It’s safe to say that almost every image can use some sort of enhancing, and programs such as Photoshop are a great tool to perfect your photos.

Original

Original

Final image, color correction made to bring out more of the color of the scene, Removed tire tracks in the sand and also dark spot that was coming out of the head of the surfer.

Final image, color corrected to bring out more of the color tones of the actual scene. Tire tracks in the sand were removed, as well as the distracting dark spot close to the head of the surfer.

Photoshop is not magic!

I once heard the story about a person who stopped by a print shop with a photo of a dairy farmer working behind his cow. Upon showing the picture to the proprietor, she explained that it was the only picture she had of her grandfather. Then she asked, “Could you Photoshop this image and remove the cow so I can see what my grandfather looked like?”. This story is a funny example of how Photoshop can be misunderstood, and how its powers seems to be magical.

Why use Photoshop?

When you shoot in RAW mode, your camera saves only the information of the image, no adjustments are made in camera. So why not shoot in RAW and use Photoshop to take control of the processing of your image yourself? Some great uses for Photoshop include, but are not limited to:

  • Cropping
  • Color balancing
  • Contrast adjustments
  • Black and white conversion
  • Removing distracting objects from an otherwise great image
  • Dodging and burning
  • Compositing
  • Watermarking

Photoshop is the new darkroom

Retouching images is not something new to photography. In the early days of photography all adjustment to photos had to be performed in the darkroom, via the processing of film and the exposures of the prints.

The famous photographer Ansel Adams was a master of the darkroom. If you’ve ever seen a straight print of one of his images, (no darkroom adjustments made) you might be surprised to realize the level of manipulation Adams applied to create the final image as he had pre-visualized it. Many of the processes available in Photoshop have their origins from processes performed in the early darkrooms.

Original image

Original image

Here the final image is cropped and the corners of the image were darken in true Ansel Adams style to keep the views eye from wander out of the image.

The final image shown here is cropped, with the corners of the image darkened (in true Ansel Adams style) to keep the viewer’s eye from wandering out of the image.

Don’t be afraid of Photoshop

So why do some photographers have such a fear or dislike of Photoshop?

  • It costs too much – True, for years the cost of Photoshop could’ve been a major deterrent for some photographers. However, now with Photoshop Creative Cloud ($ 9.99/month), the cost is not nearly the issue it once was.
  • Photoshop is too hard to learn – There is a lot to learn with Photoshop, but there are many online sources (like here on dPS) to help you use and master it. Challenge yourself!
  • What if I ruin my photo?  If you shoot in RAW mode you will always have your RAW file to go back to. Any changes made to RAW files are only attached, not applied.

Writing off the use of Photoshop for any of these reasons could be limiting your potential as a photographer.

Conclusion

Is Photoshop for everyone? Probably not, but is Photoshop detrimental to the craft of photography? Most definitely not! Can Photoshop be used to falsify images? Yes, and this article is in no way the complete answer to its basic usages. Is Photoshop a bad word? Is Photoshop a form of digital trickery, or is it a tool that helps photographers create better images?

What do you think? Comment below. (Please be respectful of other’s opinions and keep it friendly!)

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Photoshop CC 2015.0.1 update addresses healing tool issue

05 Aug

Adobe has issued an update for Photoshop CC 2015 with a number of bug fixes. Notably, an issue with the healing brush tool has been addressed, as users reported that the tool was creating unwanted artifacts in images. Read more

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

 
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How To Quickly Focus Stack an Image in Photoshop

04 Aug
Four-image focus stack of sunset in Bishop, California. The foliage in the foreground was just inches away from the camera.

Four-image focus stack of sunset in Bishop, California. The foliage in the foreground was just inches away from the camera.

When you take into account all the different ways to get a tack sharp image, it can be quite overwhelming. I’ve been photographing landscapes as a full time photographer for six years now, and have tested just about every method out there. Focus stacking is just one more option, but it is one of my favorites, if the conditions are right.

Focus stacking is a life saver when you have a foreground subject that is very close to the frame, and a background subject that is equally important to the image. This happens quite a bit in landscape photography when using super wide angle lenses! Some will argue that hyperfocal calculations work in these situations too, and while they certainly can, I personally don’t like hassling with the charts and measurements unless I really have to.

Two image focus stack of Lily Lake near Estes Park, Colorado.

Two image focus stack of Lily Lake near Estes Park, Colorado.

One of the most important things you can do out in the field is to inspect your shots instead of just assuming you nailed it. You’ll find articles all over the place making fun of photographers for chimping, but the ability to zoom in on all the tiny details of your shot is a major advantage over the film days.

When I’m taking pictures of a magnificent sunset, I’m working fast and keeping my head on a swivel. When I take a shot, I’ll quickly review it and zoom in all the way on my main subject. Then, I’ll zoom in on the other parts if they need to be sharp as well (sometimes they don’t). If you have a really close foreground subject and it’s tack sharp, but the mountains in the background are just a bit soft; this is a good time to consider focus stacking.

Two image focus stack at Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado. One for the sand that was less than a foot from the lens, and one for the background.

Two image focus stack at Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado. One for the sand that was less than a foot from the lens, and one for the background.

The best part about focus stacking is that it’s super easy! Just put your camera on a tripod and set your lens to manual focus. I use live view on the back of my camera to zoom in as close to my subject as possible and turn the focus ring on my lens until I see the subject become tack sharp. Once you’ve gotten that shot, scroll around the image and see what is soft in the background. If the mid-ground is soft, turn your focus ring until it’s sharp and take the same picture with the same settings. Then, dial the focus ring for the background and take another shot. That’s it until post processing!

Stacking the Images Together in Photoshop

Final image from the video. Three image focus stack from Zion National Park.

Final image from the video. Three image focus stack from Zion National Park.

When Focus Stacking Doesn’t Work

In all the images above that had foliage in them, there was virtually no wind at the time I took the shots. The foliage was perfectly still. If the wind is blowing and the leaves are swaying back and forth, focus stacking is going to be a nightmare, and isn’t even worth bothering with in most cases.

It’s also important to note that having the entire image in sharp focus isn’t always the best artistic approach to a scene. Sometimes having your subject sharp and the background soft will do a much better job of drawing the viewer’s eye where you want. It really just depends on the situation.

Conclusion

Focus stacking is just one trick to have in your bag, and this is just one method of doing it. There are also third party programs like Helicon Focus to consider. I personally haven’t used the program but have heard great things about it.

Have anything to add to the article? Let me know in the comments below!

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Beginners Guide to Creating and Applying Texture Overlays Using Photoshop

03 Aug

Creating and applying textures is surprisingly simple and fun to do.

Adding texture to photographs was happening long before the invention of Photoshop and other editing programs. In the days of the darkroom, we would scratch negatives with pins, sand paper them, stain the photographic paper with fixer before exposing, layer two negatives on top of each other in the enlarger, or push our film ISO to increase grain. These days, with editing programs being our digital darkroom, we simply have yet another way of adding texture to photographs.

What is a texture?

In digital photography terms it’s simply another layer added to your photograph in an editing program, usually an image of some sort of textural surface, such as paper, wood, concrete, etc., but anything at all can be a texture. They can be photographed, scanned or even made in Photoshop.

Almost anything can be used as a texture.

Some examples of textures. A friend’s work bench, a close-up of my lamp shade, a mossy rock, fog from a smoke machine, and some very ugly carpet.

Why use textures?

With the right texture overlay, and application of it,  you can add an extra level of depth and feeling to your photograph. You can use them for anything – from adding a vintage or grunge look to your photographs, to creating fine art pieces.

One of the best uses is to rescue a photograph that just isn’t quite working. I’ve been told no texture overlay will save a terrible photograph. While this is true for the most part, sometimes it can transform an otherwise unusable image to something more promising.

A texture can transform an otherwise unusable image into something more promising

A texture can transform an otherwise unusable image into something more promising.

Textures can be added to almost any kind of image. If you’ve ever downloaded a photography app for your Smartphone, you have most likely had them add a texture with the app’s built-in filters.

Some mobile phone apps add texture for you

If you’ve ever used a filter on a mobile phone app, you have probably already had textures added for you.

Getting started

You don’t need to create your own texture to get started. There are many pre-made, free textures available on the internet. A quick Google search will bring up a bunch of free texture sites. But not all textures are created equally, or usable legally. You need to look for textures that are a decent size and resolution, a 200px/72dpi texture over a 3200 px/300dpi image probably isn’t going to work so well.

You’ll also want to make sure the texture has the right copyright permissions. Sites like deviantart.com have many stock textures offered free by their artists for personal use. These artists ask that you simply return the favor by sending them a link to the image you created using their work. Other sites like freetstocktextures.com offer their images copyright free for personal and commercial use, as long as you aren’t reselling the texture images themselves.

Creating your own textures

Creating your own textures is as simple as taking a photograph. Why do that, when you can download free ones? Because it’s fun, your work is then completely all yours, and you can tailor your textures to suit your images. For example; if you’re photographing skateboarders at a skate park, you could also gather some shots of the concrete they skate on, or graffiti around the place to create original textures that work with, and possibly add to, the story of your subject matter.

create your own textures to add more story to your image

Textures can add a bit more of a story to your images.

The image above is of my daughter asleep after a day at the beach (many years ago) combined with texture of the water I took that day, to add to the story and memory of the day, and give the photo an extra dream like feel.

Create a texture with your scanner

Below is the first texture I created, one that I still use years later. It was created by scanning the bottom of an old baking tray. Scanning works well for textures of papers and other small flat surfaces.

You can also use a scanner to create textures. Thiis is a scan of the bottom of an old baking tray

Scanned texture from an old baking tray.

The baking tray texture was used in the image of the cello player at the beginning of this article, in combination with a manuscript image of the music she played on the day. I also used it in the image below; one of a series of images created in collaboration on album artwork with Canadian singer songwriter Sora. The texture was used to tie all the photographs in the album together even though some were taken by other photographers. Yet another use for textures!

Baking tray texture in combination with a few other textures.

Textures can be used to tie a series of images together.

Create a texture in Photoshop

You don’t need to understand complex Photoshop processes to create a texture quickly and easily. Here are a few simple steps to create a basic texture in a few minutes:

  1. Open a new file the size and resolution you require
  2. Brush around a couple of colors
  3. Add a Render Clouds filter
  4. Adjust levels for a bit of contrast
  5. Add a vignette and a color filter
Creating a texture in photoshop takes only minutes.

Paint in some colors, add Render Clouds Filter, some contrast, then some colour and vignette. Easy!

Instead of a Render Clouds you could use the Blur Tool to swirl your colors around, or try some of the other filters in Photoshop to get different effects. I tested it out on what was originally a rather terrible photograph of this orchid.

creating-and-applying-textures13

The texture, plus a few color adjustments and a warming photo filter, and it’s a whole different image.

create-and-add-textures09

While it does look a little like something you might see on your Facebook stream with a positive affirmation written across it in an awful font, it took me less than five minutes to do for this demonstration to show you how simple it can be to create a texture from scratch.

create-and-add-textures10

Applying your texture

It is really very easy to apply your texture. There are some more technical articles on adding textures here on dPS, but here is a quick guide to get you started.

Click and drag your texture thumbnail in the Layers palette over onto your original image. Your texture becomes layer 1 in your original image’s Layer palette. Choose your level of transparency with the Opacity Slider and use Free Transform Tool to move the texture about. Turn it around, enlarge or stretch. See where it sits best.

create-and-add-textures11

Then it’s simply fine tuning the Opacity, maybe putting Eraser Tool on a low opacity and painting out unneeded parts of the texture. Alternatively use a layer mask to paint out some areas, as well as back in, if you accidentally paint out too much.

create-and-add-textures12

Have fun with it and experiment. Try a few different layer blend modes, add multiple textures, or add the same texture image a few times, perhaps with each layer having a slightly different hue. There are no rules.

Have you created a texture that you love? Share it and its use (your images) in the comments below.

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3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits

26 Jul

In the world of photography, editing and retouching are just as important as the imagery itself. Every image that you see published has been through its fair share of post-processing before it is seen by the public. If photographers didn’t retouch their images, it would be like a painter presenting his sketches instead of the finished painting.

portrait retouching techniques

With the fast moving technology of today, extraordinary images are everywhere, every day. Even with perfect lighting, and preparation work, a final image always receives some post-production attention. The trick to post-processing is to make it look as if it hasn’t been retouched at all, or as I call it, “refreshed”.

With the endless possibilities of Photoshop retouching techniques available, how do you know what tools to use when, and why? In this article, you will learn professional photoshop tricks that work for any portrait, any time. This is a simple recipe to give your subjects a naturally refreshed look, letting their genuine beauty shine, while keeping the integrity of their expressions, their features, and the clarity of the digital image itself.

Key Steps in the Refreshing Process

  1. Evaluate
  2. Eliminate
  3. Reduce
  4. Repeat

The specific tools and techniques discussed here are tried and tested with over 10 years of retouching experience. It is best to experiment with these concepts, and with practice, develop your own style of retouching.

This process has been designed as a routine that will eventually create habits in your mind, train your eyes to see the details more clearly, and create an overall efficient and effective retouching process. The goal is to spend less time in front of the computer and more time behind the lens (where the real magic takes place).

Let’s look at each one of these steps in order. We will use a studio image of a musician as the example throughout this article.

A great tip to keep in mind during this entire process is that with each new step, or even sub-steps, it is best to duplicate your layer before beginning to use the next tool. This way you are creating a back-up of each step for you to return to, if you notice that you are retouching too much on any particular step. It also allows you to see the progression of your workflow in Photoshop.

portrait retouching techniques

Step One: Evaluate

Immediately analyze the image you are about to retouch. How is the lighting? How do the subjects look? What is going on in the background?

When you see the areas of the image that will need your attention ahead of time, you can quickly assess what you will want to accomplish with the retouching process. This is the beginning of training your eye to seek out the details, and look at your image differently, than when you first took the shot.

Look at your image as if it’s not a photograph of a person, but instead consider that it is just shapes, colors, and light. Identify where the light is coming from and how it is affecting the subject.

In this example, the direction of the light is causing more definition, creating harsh shadows across the subject. This was done intentionally to give a more characterized, artistic portrait for this musician.

However, its effect can be overpowering at times and cause distraction to the viewer. This is noticeable in the darker shadows around his right eye, and the highlights shining across the left side of his face.

portrait retouching techniques
Here are some additional elements to be aware of.

  • Different textures: The subject is an older man wearing a suit and playing an instrument. All of these textures are different and will require various tools and techniques when the retouching process happens in those areas.
  • Zoom in close: As with any image, zooming in close will allow us to see any skin imperfections, dirt, dust, or scratches that you will want to eliminate all together.
  • Make judgements on distracting elements: There are some parts of the image that could stay or be eliminated, it becomes your choice as the retoucher. What is a distraction? What is a part of the purpose of the image? For instance, the scratches on the trumpet and the left side pocket sticking out could potentially be distractions, but maybe this client would like them to stay.

Once you identify the elements that need attention, decide if each will be removed altogether, or if it needs to be reduced. For instance, the stray hair and the dust on his jacket need to be removed, but the redness and wrinkles are only to be reduced, not eliminated completely. This difference is important for the next steps in the process. So ask yourself, will it be eliminated or reduced?

Step Two: Eliminate

Once you have made your initial evaluation of the image, you can begin the elimination process. This includes but is not limited to: dust, dirt, scratches, pimples, food in teeth, and anything else that doesn’t belong. Zoom in and examine your image up close. Think of each area as shapes and color, allowing yourself to be as accurate as possible when removing these details.

For this first elimination step, it is best to use the spot healing brush, the healing brush tool, the spot tool, the patch tool, and/or any other tool that completely removes things. Don’t rely on just one. Learning how each tool works different will help you use a combination of these removal tools effectively, and efficiently.

For instance, the clone stamp tool copies exactly what you click. The healing brush blends the color and texture of what you click on, with the area you want to fix. The spot healing brush is a genius tool. It has its own way of deciding if you want to blend the area you click on, or remove the unusual pixels within that area (like a stray hair against a solid background).

portrait retouching techniques

The more you make effects to a digital image, the more destructive you can be to the clarity of the final file. Using these tools is crucial to the integrity of the image. If you can click it away in less than a few clicks, then this is the time to do it.

Once the “spots” are removed, you can focus your attention on reducing or “refreshing” the imperfections we all know we have, but don’t want to notice in the permanence of a photograph.

Step Three: Reduce

This is where your artistic eye, and attention to detail come into play. Pimples go away, dust and dirt are just distractions, but our wrinkles, smile lines, scars and facial expressions are the details that make each of us unique. Those are the things you will focus on in this stage of the “refreshing” process.

Every subject you see in an image has great qualities that they might not be confident about accentuating. It is your job as the retoucher to keep not just the integrity of the digital image, but the integrity of the special moment and the emotional expressions that have been captured in that image.

For this reason, this second step is crucial. Train yourself to pay attention to the details, the purpose of the image, and the personality of your subject. If you are retouching a very smiley bride who laughed a lot, you don’t want to remove her laugh lines, but you do want to reduce the shadows and shine as her makeup wears off and the night wears on.

In this specific example of the musician, the character lighting has created great contrast that add to the personality of the subject. But in some areas it over accentuates his wrinkles by creating deep shadows and harsh highlights of overexposure.

The Best Trick in Portrait Retouching

portrait retouching techniques

Duplicate your layer after completing step one. With this new top layer highlighted, select from the main photoshop menu: Filter > Noise > Dust & Scratches. A window will pop-up with settings options, and you will notice the image behind that window now shows a preview of this filter effect.

In the Dust & Scratches window, change your Radius to 40px and Threshold to 1. Experiment with these settings and see what works best for your images.

Once you have applied the Dust & Scratches filter (on the top, duplicated layer), you will notice how it blurs the image. But, this is not like using the blur tool. The method that this filter uses specifically identifies differences between pixels and their surrounding area. The Radius is what removes the “dust” and the Threshold is what brings back the details. Dissimilar pixels are modified to achieve a balance between sharpening and hiding defects.

The Dust & Scratches filter provides a more powerful way to remove noise from an image than any other noise removal tool. This is key to keeping the integrity of the textures, color, and overall feel of the digital image as you see it in print or on a screen.

Now that you have a layer with the right effect applied, you are going to add a layer mask to this newly altered layer, and invert the mask. Do this by clicking the icon “Add layer mask” at the bottom of your layers panel. Notice the layer mask shows up as a white box next to your highlighted top layer. Now invert this layer mask by holding the command button and clicking the letter, “i”. This will now change the layer mask to black and bring the original image come back into view.

portrait retouching techniques

Step 1: duplicate the layer
Step 2: add a layer mask
Step 3: invert the mask so it is black

You can see how the image looks unaffected by the Dust & Scratches filter. Really, it is just hidden under the layer mask. Now you can paint back into the areas where you want to reveal the Dust & Scratches filter. The trick is to do this precisely, and not too much.

Select your brush tool (keyboard shortcut is B). Making sure the layer mask is selected (not the layer – square brackets will show around the mask when it is selected like shown above), noticing its color is black, paint with the color white to bring back the Dust & Scratches filter effect.

The key to using the brush tool on an inverted layer mask is to experiment with the brush opacity strength. When focusing on the skin areas, start by brushing back at only 30% opacity. Remember, you can always brush back over an area again more or less by toggling back and forth between painting with black or white. Painting with white will reveal the effect, while painting with black with hide it.

Steer clear of teeth, lips, eyes, nostrils, ear folds, and edges like the jaw line and hair lines during this time. These areas have specific edges and textures that are important to the overall image.

Once you have completed the skin areas, you can smooth the background. Change the opacity to 100% to completely smooth out this solid color background. This only works on solid backgrounds that are seamless. Using the brush at 100% will remove any dust spots that show up from the camera lens, or dirt that is actually on the studio backdrop.

portrait retouching techniques

Tips to Keep in Mind During This Step

  1. In general, keep your brush below 50% when painting the effect on skin. This allows more than 50% of the original textures and features to still be noticeable. If you paint more than 50% in these areas, you will see a putty-like effect starting to take over, causing your image to be more retouched than refreshed.
  2. Using the bracket keys on the keyboard [ and ], frequently change the size of your brush as you paint. Keep your brush hardness at 0 unless absolutely necessary. This allows you to move in and around smaller and larger areas of the skin and background with more efficiency and accuracy.
  3. The zoom tool is your best friend during this part of the refreshing process. Remember, instead of thinking of this image as a portrait, consider that you are just seeing shapes, color, and light. Zoom in close and pay attention to the changes you are creating. Force yourself to go too far with some brush strokes so that you know the limit. When you have gone too far, just toggle back to painting with black (set your opacity to 100%) and remove that last brush stroke all the way before beginning again (or use Command+Z to undo the last step).
  4. Be careful around fingers and edges of arms and legs where there are small curved areas. If you paint near these edges the Dust & Scratches will run over the edge and remove the curved areas all together, altering the look of elbows, fingers, shoulders, ankles and knees.
  5. Men can have beards and tend to have rougher looking skin than women. Be careful not to soften too much on a man’s skin. The same goes for grandparents.
  6. With babies and children, who have much smaller features, it is important to be aware of the shadow areas that you paint over. If you change the shape of their skin too much, it will no longer look like them. This is particularly important around the nose, eyes and mouth – their tiniest features.

Here is the before and after of the Dust & Scratches filter effect on the musician’s face:

portrait retouching techniques

Notice the softening of the skin and reduction of the shadows in the wrinkles, yet he still looks untouched with most of the original texture still visible.

Now that you have completed the most important task of this post processing technique, it is time to repeat the steps from the beginning. Start again by evaluating the image as a whole. Notice any other areas that need attention. Remember to duplicate the top layer once you have completed any step in the process. Allow yourself to duplicate your layers as many times as you want. It’s always a safe bet.

Next, eliminate. This is your chance to eliminate any larger parts of the image that take more time. Elements to consider removing are:

  • Some (not all) of the scratches across the trumpet.
  • His left-side jacket pocket.

After eliminating for the final time, move on to step three again. In this case, instead of using Dust & Scratches as your reduction tool, you can use other popular items in the toolbox. Tools to consider using are the Healing and Spot Brushes, Dodge and Burn, and Sharpen and Saturate/Desaturate.

photoshop brushes for portrait retouching

Eliminate then Reduce – Repeat.

First, don’t forget to duplicate your layer before starting this step! If you don’t duplicate, this step will not work.

To lighten the shadowed area of the musician’s right eye, the Dodge Tool used at 50% on shadows would look too overly processed. But by allowing it to be over done on this newly duplicated top layer, you can then reduce the opacity of the layer to bring back the layer underneath at 50% or more. Now the over processed shadows look naturally lighter than the original.

This technique is great for all the tools mentioned above. The Sharpen tool can be used on eyes and jewelry. The Healing and Spot tools can be used for under eyes, and shadows that need a bit more attention. Desaturate and Dodge tools can be combined to whiten teeth. Anytime you want to reduce using these tools, just remember to duplicate the layer; make your changes, then reduce the opacity of that newly affected layer until the effect looks natural.

At this point in the retouching process, you have walked through each step of the process twice. It is time evaluate your finished image. This is where all those duplicated layers comes in handy. Keeping the top most layer turned on and the bottom original layer on, turn off every layer in between. Then zoom-in to 100% (accurate view of pixels), and click on and off of your top layer to see all the changes you have made.

If necessary make any other slight adjustments, like cropping to the correct size, then save your image. It’s best to always save the Photoshop layered copy (save as a PSD file) as well as a flattened JPG file, in the quality size you want.

We all know photoshop is full of endless possibilities, and we all love to learn. If you have other techniques that are great for “refreshing” your portraits, please share.

As with all things in life, this process takes practice to perfect. With practice you will gain accuracy, efficiency and train your eyes to see your images (before and after post-processing) in a whole new light, giving you better control over the look and feel of your retouched portraits.

portrait retouching techniques

Remember, as you learn and grow as a photographer, the goal is to always create your best images in the camera, and not just assume that you can just fix it in post. Keep this in mind, and with every click of the shutter you will become a better photographer, and spend less time in front of the computer.

Of course, you will always edit and retouch your very best images. When you do sit down to do so, now you will have a whole new range of techniques you can apply.

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3 Useful Photoshop Techniques for Making Images Exposure Corrections

20 Jul
Title-correct-exposure

Using a Curves Adjustment Layer with the Blend Mode set to Screen to correct exposure in Photoshop.

In general, where images are too dark, this is referred to as underexposed. Conversely, images that are too light are overexposed. Photos taken on sunny days are prone to being overexposed.

exposure

An animated gif to illustrate a correct exposure, an underexposed shot and an overexposed one.

In an ideal situation, the aim is to try and get the correct exposure in-camera. In doing so, less time will be spent in front of your computer post-processing.

In this article, I will describe how to easily correct photos that are underexposed (photos that are too dark) and overexposed (photos that too light) using Adjustment Layers and Blend Modes in Photoshop. I will then describe how the Dodge and Burn tools work to target specific areas to brighten or darken your image.

The following techniques are not new, but have been around for quite some time in Photoshop. The methods are still very effective, quick and easy to do.

  • Overexposed photos – Blend Mode: Screen with Curves Adjustment Layer.
  • Underexposed photos – Blend Mode: Multiply with Curves Adjustment layer.
  • Dodge & Burn tools – New Layer above the image filled with 50% gray – Blend Mode: Overlay/Softlight.

Read:  The First 3 Photoshop Blend Modes You Need to Understand

All of the images I used in this article are the jpegs straight out of the camera, completely unedited. I want to demonstrate how effective these techniques are when applied.

Correcting Overexposed Images

Becky-overexposed

A typical washed-out look from an overexposed photo.

As you can see, from the first overexposed shot. The subject has that washed-out look. The subject is overexposed by a stop and a half. I applied a Curves Adjustment Layer and changed the Blend Mode to Multiply. Straight away, the contrast of the image has dramatically increased.

Becky-curves-multiply

The result is quite dramatic when the Curves Adjustment Layer (with Multiply blend mode) has been applied, but there is a noticeable change in color shift.

The Multiply Blend Mode can cause a shift in color, but this is easily remedied. To adjust the color balance, go to the Properties panel (CS6) and choose the channel you want by clicking on the menu left of the Auto button. In this case, the color was too cool, so I adjusted the three channels (Red, Green and Blue) to get the result I wanted.

Becky-correct-exposure

The color balance has now been modified by adjusting the red, green and blue channels in the the properties panel for the Curves layer.

In the image of the Rhino below, when I applied the adjustment layer and changed the Blend Mode to Multiply, the effect caused a color shift to green, and the intensity of the effect was too dramatic. I adjusted the color balance by choosing the green and red channels in the Properties panel. I then reduced the Opacity to 55% of the layer to further fine-tune the image.

Rhino-underexposed

Overexposed photo of a Rhino taken at Dublin Zoo.

Rhino-curves-multiply

A Curves Adjustment layer with the Blend Mode set to Multiply.

Rhino-correct-exposure

I reduced the Opacity of the Curves Adjustment Layer as the effect was too much. I then adjusted the color balance by tweaking the red, green and blue channels.

Correcting Underexposed Images

Underexposed shots are typical when working outdoors on sunny days. Usually, the background is properly exposed but your subject is silhouetted. Similarly, if the background is washed out but your mode/subject is exposed correctly.

For example, the photo of the flower was taken at the beach on a very sunny day. I focused and exposed for the flower, which meant the background was way too dark. I applied a Curves Adjustment Layer and changed the Blend Mode to Screen. The shadows became lighter, but I duplicated this layer again as I wanted more detail in the shadows. (In most cases, this effect of using the one Adjustment Layer is enough but if your photo is very washed out, or very dark, you may need to duplicate the Adjustment Layer and adjust the opacity accordingly.)

flower-underexposed

An underexposed flower in green foliage.

I reduced the opacity of both layers and added a mask to bring back the highlights on the flower’s petals. Similar to the Multiply Blend Mode, the Screen Mode can cause a shift in color. In this instance, the photo had too much green. Similar to the photo above, I was able to adjust the color balance in the Properties panel and chose the green channel to modify the color balance.

flower-curves-screen

Two Curves Adjustment Layers were applied to this photo. I wanted to bring out more detail in the shadows.

flower-changing-to-green-channel

flower-input-output-sliders

By going into the different channels, it’s easier to target the specific colour that needs adjusting. In the image of the flower, I wanted to reduce the green colour. So by clicking on the top right point of the graph (output) and dragging it down. I then moved this Input slider to the right to bring in some magenta. As this an adjustment layer, you can play around with each of the colour channels and experiment using the input and Output sliders in an non-destructive way.

flower-green-channel-S-curve

A more accurate way would be to plot different points on the grid to get that classic S shape, which is what the Curves Adjustment is know for.

flower-correct-exposure

Opacity was reduced on each of the two Curves Adjustmnet layers. The green channel was adjusted to modify the color balance.

The shot of the hippo below was taken at Dublin Zoo and the day was quite overcast. As before, I added a Curves Adjustment layer and changed the Blend Mode to Screen. I then adjusted the red, green and blue channels to correct the color balance. I reduced the opacity on the Adjustment Layer only slightly.

Hippo-underexposed

A underexposed shot of a hippopotamus taken at Dublin Zoo

Hippo-curves-screen

A Curves Adjustment layer with the Blend Mode set to Screen.

The shot of the Hippo was taken at Dublin Zoo and the day was quite overcast. As before, I added a Curves Adjustment layer and changed the Blend Mode to Screen. I then adjusted the red, green and blue channels to correct the color balance. I reduced the opacity on the Adjustment Layer only slightly.

Hippo-correct-exposure

The Opacity was only slightly reduced for this image but the color balance again had to be adjusted in all the channels.

So by using an adjustment layer and changing the Blend Mode to Multiply or Screen, overexposed and underexposed shots can be easily fixed in a few steps. But what if specific areas of your image only need the exposure corrected?

Dodge and Burn

The Dodge tool lightens and the Burn tool darkens specific areas of your photo. This is why the Dodge and Burn tools are really useful if you don’t need to apply a global exposure correction.

I use these tools a lot in my workflow, it can create highlights in hair. When I shoot headshots, the eyes are important and the Dodge and Burn tools can also really enhance eyes and make them sparkle. Other forms or parts of the body can also be accentuated and given more depth by using these tools.

However, the Dodge and Burn tools, if used directly on a image, work in a destructive way. So to use these tools non-destructively, you will need to create a new blank layer above the image that you are working on, fill it with 50% gray and change the Blend Mode to Overlay or Softlight.

Dodge-Burn-tools

Where to locate the Dodge and Burn tools in Photoshop.

Before you begin, use a brush with the hardness set to soft (0-30). In the Tools Options Bar, make sure that you set the Range to Midtones, Exposure is set to low (8-10%) and that the Protect Tones is checked, as shown below.

Midtones+Exposure+Protect-Tonespsd

Set the Range to Midtones. Keep Exposure at a low setting. Make sure the Protect Tones box has been checked.

dog

In this photo of the dog, I want to create some highlights on the dog’s fur. Well, fur is like hair!

Dog-dodge-burn

You can see the difference in what a little dodging can do in this image of the dog with the photo above.

If you feel that you have overdone either the Dodge or the Burn tool, just lower the opacity of the layer.

Lisa

Lisa, before any Dodging or Burning has been applied to the image.

Lisa-dodge-burn

Just a little dodge and burn can make a difference to your photo.

Even subtle differences can enhance your images. In this image of Lisa, I applied some dodging to her eyes, I used the Burn tool to emphasize her lips. I then added a bit more dodging to the face and hair.

I hope you find these techniques useful? Maybe, you have some of your own? If so please share in the comments below.

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